Nice video. There's a special tool for this VW plug which reduces the (small) risk of cracking the plastic, it's just a few euros so it's nice to have. I recommend not to lower the car while draining since it doesn't help draining the oil out (drain is at the rear of the sump hence it's the lowest while jacked-up at the front. But more importantly, if you are unlucky the car (sump) will drop onto your oil container and that could make a real mess out of your drive way.. cheers.
Good advice. CSS isn't that low so as long as you low it gently it's OK. I didn't think if it would drain more, I just did it as it's easy. Rather than height, I was more worried about the yaw of the car when jacked up and oil being to the side of the sump hole and not getting out. Must find that took as it's nice to have the right stuff and I plan to do a lot more oil changes on this car in the future as no plans to sell
Another great and informative video. Recently had my Cupra 280 serviced at my local dealer and SEAT used Castrol Edge 0W20 to refill the oil which threw me a bit as I've never used 0W20, nor seen it being used on any of my previous cars. 3 months on and the car hasn't blown up so guess it must be fine. Does run slightly hotter at ~106-109c when up to temp but haven't noticed any difference compared to previous oils.
Thanks JJ. There has been a move to 0W oils with the later cars (mk8 era) and dealers will be lazy and just through this in. I don't think it a 0W/20 will be correct for your car so check the manual as it should state this. If not go back to dealer and get the correct oil in. The wrong oil is unlikely to cause issues immediately buy may cause longer term damage by which point you'll struggle to pin it on the garage (and don't think they don't know that).
@@volkswizard Spoke with my SEAT dealer and they told me they did actually put 5W30 in my Cupra 280 during the service, but whoever drew up the invoice put the wrong oil on it, so false alarm. Although I have requested a copy of their garage/workshop worksheet showing the 5W30 just in case...! I am thinking I'll give Mannol a try though for the next change as they seem to have the approval from VW.
I have a 2017 Octavia VRS and apparently 0W 20 is the correct oil. Been running mine on it with no apparent issues. Its something to do with less internal friction of the engine and or the oil and results in slightly better gas mileage, as long as you live somewhere without extremes of temperature. I also change my oil around the 7000 mile mark.
I got a 2021 caddy maxi that takes this new ow 20 oil it has a digital fuel reader when you pop the bonnet that comes up on the dash . If u check the dipstick when it’s cold which is what I have done over the years it’s shows that it needs a top up , then if you top it up to “full” it actually overfills and then it throws an error on the dash and you have to remove oil to relative it , I read somewhere that the dealers check the engines for oil when warm now maybe it’s the same on other vw models
you mention to use 5w-40 which i agree on, but what i dont agree with is using cheap 5w-40, the reason brands like liquimoly, millers etc charge a premium is because their oils are made purposely for cars that are used on track, you will notice a good drop in oil temp.
Agree with using better brands completely, I’ve used Mannol G12+ coolant and I might aswell of had water in there. Got some Comma coolant and it’s much better quality.
Another well informed video Andrew. A good tip when changing the oil is to pour a bit of fresh, new oil into the engine, whilst the old oil is draining. It helps flush it through, maybe 100 to 200 ml thats all but it helps get all the old oil out.
Great video as always Andrew. I don’t do so much diy on my car these days due to mostly age related issues, but everything you mentioned was spot on. My 7.5R is booked in for some care and attention next month at my local independent specialist. I don’t know what I’d do without him. 👍
Very nice explanation of the service just did my MK 4 Gold Tdi 150 well before due but like clean oil filter and she is low miles at 65k for a 2002 so keep her filters changed 6 monthly air and pollen too. Never ever let’s me down.
Whatever you do, keep doing what you do. One of VW's best diesel engines. Treat her to a Liqui Moly diesel additive now and again. Mannol oil is pretty decent.
Nice one Andrew, I like these vids tbh, In my case with oil changes, I park the car at the spot where I am going to do the oil change that evening. Next morning no warmup of engine as all the oil has already flowed to the bottom, drain the oil, replace filter and fresh new 0w 40 Shell full synthetic VW502/505 . I use 0W now as it is winter here otherwise 5w/40 shell HX8 full synthetic in summer. Keep well mate!
Great timing for this video, I've just bought a Octavia VRS as a dog wagon and wondered about those sump plugs and great tip on removing the filter. Looking forward to the brake fluid change video & well done on using a stand this time 👍😉 What about those silica bag in the header tank remove and use g12 Evo ?
@@richardboswell5992 I'm going to remove mine I think and use Gen VW G12 Evo coolant, as its the missus car. It maybe one of those overblown stories of the internet, but I'll remove the problem....I had to replace a couple of Mk2 Golf GTI heater matrix's years ago and had the time down to 2-3hrs, think a MBQ car might be a lot longer 🤣🤣
Great video! I personally would do somethings differently. I would open the sump plug before opening the cap/dipstick/filter. Also I would only loosen the cap and only release the dipstick to break the seal, never know what crap could get into your engine!
Another cracking video. I've had a scratch and I've iched it because the second hand prices are crazy. I ended up with a denim blue 225 audi tt. 104k miles with full audi service history and 04 reg. 3 owners and standard. £2000 I'm happy with my purchase
Just changed my car to a 1.5 TSI EVO Mk7.5, considering taking it to VW for its first service under my ownership and considering doing my own servicing at some point. Just wondering does VW/other garages check other stuff I might miss doing it myself e.g the electric handbrake, suspension parts etc? I'm not exactly a mechanic so just wondered if I just change the oil, air and pollen filter will I miss something! 🤔 Also how often do the spark plugs need changing?
Do you guys have the 2.5 5cylinder over there? One thing I hated when I owned a VW was finding out how much oil the car should take. The owners manual said nothing etc. Love the content mate.
Mannol 5w 40 Extreme is a decent engine oil from SCT Lubricants, a German company. It has ester technology which is also used in aircraft technology. Despite some negative comments, it is more than capable of protecting the engine in the GTi. If you want some more peace of mind, use their Ceramo additive in the engine. Another great video Andrew. Love these videos when you are on the tools.
Thanks so much Dog-bite. I've done some checking on Mannol and they seem a proper firm, in fact the VW approval doesn't come easy or cheap so that is a stamp of quality. It's not the cheapest oil but it's the best value.
Thanks Darren that is good to know! No, CSS does not have underbonnet pad. The press releases made a big fuss about removal of sound insulation and you tend to imagine it's been removed from doors and floor but I bet you it's just that bloody pad. Shame as VW finally made one that didn't try and unclip itself from the bonnet :)
There are usually 2 grades recommended one for Long Life and one for 10k intervals (time and distance). 0w-20 sounds exotic so is probably for Longlife, 5w/30 would be better at higher temperatures but less good at cold starts but still very good. VW want oils that are thin when cold to reduce emissions, they don't prioritise lubricity but you as an owner can. So go 5w/30 but I am sure 5w/40 is OK too but check the handbook. 👍🏻
Great tinkering Andrew - so important to use right oil and can’t wait to see this car on a track - is there any difference in front end set up compared to TCR i.e which is better for less understeer on track?
Understeer was a big issue with TCR and Clubsport S has been set up to minimise that to the point that VW manufactured unique (as far as I know, might be an Octavia Taxi spec or something!) front knuckles hubs. So this should allow more tyre on road under hard cornering, for example at TCR corner on Bedford Autodrome (late apex just before the L O N G straight). Can't wait to find out for sure though :)
My 2013 Golf GTI PP always had 20,000 mile VW long life oil changes/service - fine until last year at 140,000 miles when variable valve timing failed needing camshaft and timing chain replacement costing £4k 😢 Now running like new and I’m getting oil changed every 5,000 miles. Still love the car and would only replace for mk 7.5 GTI
That is exactly the issue with longlife, it affects the car much later in its life than the first 3 years - it was only introduced to reduce costs for the fleet market who tended to buy most new cars. VW workshops probably calculated that make those reductions in revenue back when the cars fail prematurely with owners 2/3/4 etc
I have an S3 2018 I'm doing oil changes with the vacuum extractor every 5000mi, it doesn't feel right leaving any longer than this considering the performance these engines have.
Driven VAG cars from new (mainly Audi) for over 20 years. Initially the selling main dealer would set the service indicator to longlife which I ignored and had oil changed every 6000 miles. Last 2 cars I've had have been set to fixed 12 month intervals (9000 miles) but only drive about 5000 miles in that period (and nowhere near as hard)
Glad to be of service Alan. If pumping out the oil, I'd be interested to know if you can get as much out as the official fill quantity. Also be aware that some engines are not suitable for dipstick tube extraction, can't recall which unfortunately
Good video as always but personally I use the oil extractor/vacuum method to suck the oil out via the dipstick tube. With the filter being at the top as well makes oil changes a breeze on these cars.
Thanks Daniel, extractors do sound easy but can't help thinking they might miss a bit. In the service manuals for certain VWG engines, there is a specific requirement not to use an extractor, as presumably the shape of sump doesn't allow a thorough drain. If you are getting 5.7 litres out of an EA888 Gen 3 then that's good enough!
@@volkswizard I pull the plug as well every three or four oil changes to keep that fresh too (probably unnecessarily) - I typically only get an extra 100ml or less dribbling out! So on these 2.0 MQB cars with a straight down dipstick tube, I'm very convinced its the way to go :) You are right though that others in the VAG lineup are not the same...similarly if I had a car with the oil filter at the bottom and had to jack it up and get under there anyway, I'd probably just go ahead drain via the plug.
Great content as always and yes you are right about the oil some people i swear it like putting ow30 in a tdi id put a gun to my head before id do it 😂😂
Check out Audi EA888oil drain plug D at the end which cross references to MK7 Gti 06L103801D. It’s only $1.50 and looks identical would like your take on it!
What break pads do you recommend for a golf r 7.5 , I had some pads from euro parts , but after a little spirited drive, the breaks smoked a bit, this is a well maintained car, but what pads do you recommend ? Something with a bit more bite to them,
There are some new Pagid pads that VW test driver Benny Leuchter is promoting, apart from that Ferodo and Mintex have track pads. I've never had issues with EBC yellow stuff for fast road or track. ECP's premium brake parts come from Pagid but there are many suggestions they are not as good as the ones that come from the factory. One thing I learned is to never fit new pads before a track day, especially road pads as they need a few heat cycles to bed them, the kind of thing normal fast road driving is perfect for - had exactly your issue with Pagids on my TT quattro Sport track car but they got better in the end (I'd fitted R32 front brakes)
@@volkswizard thanks for that, and yeah it was only fast broads and country lane stuf, no track, and I got to a set of lights and they embarisly started smoking , the pads was only £34 from euro parts. But thanks ,
Also not sure if anyone has an opinion on the timing belt (or toothed belt as VW calls it). In mainland Europe it's considered a lifetime belt, I've found the official VW service manuals and it says it's good to around 210,00 km whereas VW UK says it needs changing every 5 years/60,000 miles!
Another fantastic video ❤ Would it be possible to provide us one on the status of your fleet - seen in the background of this vid ED30 and (I think) Porsche, then there's the Mk2 GTI ? And the Corrado ? So much potential content 😊
Thanks Stewart! All the cars are still here. Mk2 project needs starting up again, Porsche needs a 2023 update video. Corrado is asleep in garage. So keep a look out as definitely need to make some more varied content soon
Do you actually need a torque wrench when carrying out work on your car, I don’t have one but I’ve serviced my car before and just tightened it up manually was this completely wrong?
Andrew will give the technical answer but as I have learnt.... Most likely you would be over tightening every time without one. As an engineer said to me once...how tight? Not as tight as you think. 👍
It’s good practise to use one but not 100% necessary. Certain bolts on VAG cars are stretch bolts, and should be tightened up to the spec torque for safety reasons. Also you’ve got stuff like knock sensors, where by the torque can influence the correct operation of the sensor.
I started using them when doing cambelts because there is a lot lose if you get it wrong particularly with regards to the nut that holds the tensioner onto the stud and engine mounts. It's less important with servicing but have just seen so much extra work from overtightened things from professional mechanics I use it when I can. Wheel bolts for example are pretty much always way too tight when cars come in and I often have to use a breaker bar to get them off which slows down wheel removal massively. Also locking wheel bolt keys can only take so much torque before they break and you are stuck. I'll always take wheels off and retorque on my own cars as a matter of course.
Not necessarily, but it definitely won't hurt to start changing your oil a lot more often... Mine had been on a long life plan when I bought it at 69k miles... I change the oil every 5k miles using Quantum 5w30 504/507 and a Mann filter 🙂
Longlife is fine on low mileage cars, say up to 5k in 2 years on the same oil, can't see a problem unless all short journeys and car never warms up as risk of polluting oil with fuel. If you do just 5k in 2 years in a CSS you should be shot anyway though, these cars are for driving 🔫😁
Thanks for all the great VW content over the years
Wow, thanks 🙌🏻
good man
Nice video. There's a special tool for this VW plug which reduces the (small) risk of cracking the plastic, it's just a few euros so it's nice to have. I recommend not to lower the car while draining since it doesn't help draining the oil out (drain is at the rear of the sump hence it's the lowest while jacked-up at the front. But more importantly, if you are unlucky the car (sump) will drop onto your oil container and that could make a real mess out of your drive way.. cheers.
Good advice. CSS isn't that low so as long as you low it gently it's OK. I didn't think if it would drain more, I just did it as it's easy. Rather than height, I was more worried about the yaw of the car when jacked up and oil being to the side of the sump hole and not getting out. Must find that took as it's nice to have the right stuff and I plan to do a lot more oil changes on this car in the future as no plans to sell
Another great and informative video. Recently had my Cupra 280 serviced at my local dealer and SEAT used Castrol Edge 0W20 to refill the oil which threw me a bit as I've never used 0W20, nor seen it being used on any of my previous cars. 3 months on and the car hasn't blown up so guess it must be fine. Does run slightly hotter at ~106-109c when up to temp but haven't noticed any difference compared to previous oils.
I would be changing it back to at least 5w30 as per spec.
Thanks JJ. There has been a move to 0W oils with the later cars (mk8 era) and dealers will be lazy and just through this in. I don't think it a 0W/20 will be correct for your car so check the manual as it should state this. If not go back to dealer and get the correct oil in. The wrong oil is unlikely to cause issues immediately buy may cause longer term damage by which point you'll struggle to pin it on the garage (and don't think they don't know that).
@@volkswizard Cheers Andrew, did think it was odd. I'll be giving my SEAT dealer a call on Monday!
@@volkswizard Spoke with my SEAT dealer and they told me they did actually put 5W30 in my Cupra 280 during the service, but whoever drew up the invoice put the wrong oil on it, so false alarm. Although I have requested a copy of their garage/workshop worksheet showing the 5W30 just in case...! I am thinking I'll give Mannol a try though for the next change as they seem to have the approval from VW.
I have a 2017 Octavia VRS and apparently 0W 20 is the correct oil. Been running mine on it with no apparent issues. Its something to do with less internal friction of the engine and or the oil and results in slightly better gas mileage, as long as you live somewhere without extremes of temperature. I also change my oil around the 7000 mile mark.
I got a 2021 caddy maxi that takes this new ow 20 oil it has a digital fuel reader when you pop the bonnet that comes up on the dash . If u check the dipstick when it’s cold which is what I have done over the years it’s shows that it needs a top up , then if you top it up to “full” it actually overfills and then it throws an error on the dash and you have to remove oil to relative it , I read somewhere that the dealers check the engines for oil when warm now maybe it’s the same on other vw models
you mention to use 5w-40 which i agree on, but what i dont agree with is using cheap 5w-40, the reason brands like liquimoly, millers etc charge a premium is because their oils are made purposely for cars that are used on track, you will notice a good drop in oil temp.
Interesting? Any test evidence to prove that? As for Mannol being cheap, it is but it doesn't mean that other more expensive oils are any better.
Agree with using better brands completely, I’ve used Mannol G12+ coolant and I might aswell of had water in there. Got some Comma coolant and it’s much better quality.
Another well informed video Andrew. A good tip when changing the oil is to pour a bit of fresh, new oil into the engine, whilst the old oil is draining. It helps flush it through, maybe 100 to 200 ml thats all but it helps get all the old oil out.
Miller’s 5w40 NT for me on my golf r never had a problem
Another mention of Miller, must be good - thanks for the tip Jonathan
Great video as always Andrew. I don’t do so much diy on my car these days due to mostly age related issues, but everything you mentioned was spot on. My 7.5R is booked in for some care and attention next month at my local independent specialist. I don’t know what I’d do without him. 👍
Thanks Wilber 🙌🏻Specialists are great, I was at APS in Brackley this week for some diagnosis which I know VW would never have time to do properly
Very nice explanation of the service just did my MK 4 Gold Tdi 150 well before due but like clean oil filter and she is low miles at 65k for a 2002 so keep her filters changed 6 monthly air and pollen too. Never ever let’s me down.
Whatever you do, keep doing what you do. One of VW's best diesel engines. Treat her to a Liqui Moly diesel additive now and again. Mannol oil is pretty decent.
Nice one Andrew, I like these vids tbh, In my case with oil changes, I park the car at the spot where I am going to do the oil change that evening. Next morning no warmup of engine as all the oil has already flowed to the bottom, drain the oil, replace filter and fresh new 0w 40 Shell full synthetic VW502/505 . I use 0W now as it is winter here otherwise 5w/40 shell HX8 full synthetic in summer. Keep well mate!
Thanks Dale!
Great timing for this video, I've just bought a Octavia VRS as a dog wagon and wondered about those sump plugs and great tip on removing the filter. Looking forward to the brake fluid change video & well done on using a stand this time 👍😉 What about those silica bag in the header tank remove and use g12 Evo ?
I've been wondering about the silica myself 🙂
@@richardboswell5992 I'm going to remove mine I think and use Gen VW G12 Evo coolant, as its the missus car. It maybe one of those overblown stories of the internet, but I'll remove the problem....I had to replace a couple of Mk2 Golf GTI heater matrix's years ago and had the time down to 2-3hrs, think a MBQ car might be a lot longer 🤣🤣
Great video! I personally would do somethings differently. I would open the sump plug before opening the cap/dipstick/filter. Also I would only loosen the cap and only release the dipstick to break the seal, never know what crap could get into your engine!
Another cracking video. I've had a scratch and I've iched it because the second hand prices are crazy. I ended up with a denim blue 225 audi tt. 104k miles with full audi service history and 04 reg. 3 owners and standard. £2000 I'm happy with my purchase
Great car if you are ok with a bit of DIY. Mk1 TT is crazy cheap still as so many for sale. Must buy one myself soon 👍
Yeah I can do most bits. UA-cam obviously helps. 🤣
Why replace the plug? I’ve never seen that before but also not seen a plastic plug either.
Just changed my car to a 1.5 TSI EVO Mk7.5, considering taking it to VW for its first service under my ownership and considering doing my own servicing at some point. Just wondering does VW/other garages check other stuff I might miss doing it myself e.g the electric handbrake, suspension parts etc? I'm not exactly a mechanic so just wondered if I just change the oil, air and pollen filter will I miss something! 🤔 Also how often do the spark plugs need changing?
Do you guys have the 2.5 5cylinder over there? One thing I hated when I owned a VW was finding out how much oil the car should take. The owners manual said nothing etc. Love the content mate.
In the UK? Yeah its in the RS3 and TTRS
Forgot to mention, 0W just flows bettyer at cold startup.
Makes sense
Mannol 5w 40 Extreme is a decent engine oil from SCT Lubricants, a German company. It has ester technology which is also used in aircraft technology. Despite some negative comments, it is more than capable of protecting the engine in the GTi. If you want some more peace of mind, use their Ceramo additive in the engine. Another great video Andrew. Love these videos when you are on the tools.
Thanks so much Dog-bite. I've done some checking on Mannol and they seem a proper firm, in fact the VW approval doesn't come easy or cheap so that is a stamp of quality. It's not the cheapest oil but it's the best value.
You would be better off with millers nano 5w40 NT+ if you’re tracking it
I'll check that out, thanks
Non-VAG owner here, but still interested in the content.
Thanks great to know Peakwanderer, thanks for dropping by😎
I always enjoy these types of videos, Andrew. Btw, does the CCS not have any under bonnet insulation thing?
Thanks Darren that is good to know! No, CSS does not have underbonnet pad. The press releases made a big fuss about removal of sound insulation and you tend to imagine it's been removed from doors and floor but I bet you it's just that bloody pad. Shame as VW finally made one that didn't try and unclip itself from the bonnet :)
That oil meets the VW 502 00 and 505 00 spec doesn’t mean it has a approval letter from VW.
Unless you know otherwise I’d imagine the only difference is brown envelope with a Wolfsburg address
Is 5w-30 (Castrol) oil enough for 2019 GTI PP with stage 1 tune? 0w-20 is recommended for stock engine. Btw nice set of wheels 😊
There are usually 2 grades recommended one for Long Life and one for 10k intervals (time and distance). 0w-20 sounds exotic so is probably for Longlife, 5w/30 would be better at higher temperatures but less good at cold starts but still very good. VW want oils that are thin when cold to reduce emissions, they don't prioritise lubricity but you as an owner can. So go 5w/30 but I am sure 5w/40 is OK too but check the handbook. 👍🏻
Great tinkering Andrew - so important to use right oil and can’t wait to see this car on a track - is there any difference in front end set up compared to TCR i.e which is better for less understeer on track?
Understeer was a big issue with TCR and Clubsport S has been set up to minimise that to the point that VW manufactured unique (as far as I know, might be an Octavia Taxi spec or something!) front knuckles hubs. So this should allow more tyre on road under hard cornering, for example at TCR corner on Bedford Autodrome (late apex just before the L O N G straight). Can't wait to find out for sure though :)
My 2013 Golf GTI PP always had 20,000 mile VW long life oil changes/service - fine until last year at 140,000 miles when variable valve timing failed needing camshaft and timing chain replacement costing £4k 😢 Now running like new and I’m getting oil changed every 5,000 miles. Still love the car and would only replace for mk 7.5 GTI
That is exactly the issue with longlife, it affects the car much later in its life than the first 3 years - it was only introduced to reduce costs for the fleet market who tended to buy most new cars. VW workshops probably calculated that make those reductions in revenue back when the cars fail prematurely with owners 2/3/4 etc
20,000 is ridiculous even for a new car. 10,000 or 12 months is the absolute limit IMO.
I have an S3 2018 I'm doing oil changes with the vacuum extractor every 5000mi, it doesn't feel right leaving any longer than this considering the performance these engines have.
Driven VAG cars from new (mainly Audi) for over 20 years. Initially the selling main dealer would set the service indicator to longlife which I ignored and had oil changed every 6000 miles. Last 2 cars I've had have been set to fixed 12 month intervals (9000 miles) but only drive about 5000 miles in that period (and nowhere near as hard)
Good video one thing I’d change is that shitty plastic sump,one guy blew his motor due to hole poor bloke.
Thanks, there is a conversion kit. Interestingly Gen 4 engines (mk8) are back to metal
@@volkswizard yeh definitely go conversion kit and about time vw woke up but they missed the boat by taking out mpi (probably emissions).
Good tip with the oil filter housing. I'm going to do my polo gti with a pump this time and see how that goes.
Glad to be of service Alan. If pumping out the oil, I'd be interested to know if you can get as much out as the official fill quantity. Also be aware that some engines are not suitable for dipstick tube extraction, can't recall which unfortunately
@@volkswizard I'll see how it goes. The Humblemechanic did it on his golf r and just had think 50ml left.
Good video as always but personally I use the oil extractor/vacuum method to suck the oil out via the dipstick tube. With the filter being at the top as well makes oil changes a breeze on these cars.
Thanks Daniel, extractors do sound easy but can't help thinking they might miss a bit. In the service manuals for certain VWG engines, there is a specific requirement not to use an extractor, as presumably the shape of sump doesn't allow a thorough drain. If you are getting 5.7 litres out of an EA888 Gen 3 then that's good enough!
@@volkswizard I pull the plug as well every three or four oil changes to keep that fresh too (probably unnecessarily) - I typically only get an extra 100ml or less dribbling out! So on these 2.0 MQB cars with a straight down dipstick tube, I'm very convinced its the way to go :) You are right though that others in the VAG lineup are not the same...similarly if I had a car with the oil filter at the bottom and had to jack it up and get under there anyway, I'd probably just go ahead drain via the plug.
Great content as always and yes you are right about the oil some people i swear it like putting ow30 in a tdi id put a gun to my head before id do it 😂😂
Check out Audi EA888oil drain plug D at the end which cross references to MK7 Gti 06L103801D. It’s only $1.50 and looks identical would like your take on it!
What break pads do you recommend for a golf r 7.5 , I had some pads from euro parts , but after a little spirited drive, the breaks smoked a bit, this is a well maintained car, but what pads do you recommend ? Something with a bit more bite to them,
There are some new Pagid pads that VW test driver Benny Leuchter is promoting, apart from that Ferodo and Mintex have track pads. I've never had issues with EBC yellow stuff for fast road or track. ECP's premium brake parts come from Pagid but there are many suggestions they are not as good as the ones that come from the factory. One thing I learned is to never fit new pads before a track day, especially road pads as they need a few heat cycles to bed them, the kind of thing normal fast road driving is perfect for - had exactly your issue with Pagids on my TT quattro Sport track car but they got better in the end (I'd fitted R32 front brakes)
@@volkswizard thanks for that, and yeah it was only fast broads and country lane stuf, no track, and I got to a set of lights and they embarisly started smoking , the pads was only £34 from euro parts. But thanks ,
Also not sure if anyone has an opinion on the timing belt (or toothed belt as VW calls it). In mainland Europe it's considered a lifetime belt, I've found the official VW service manuals and it says it's good to around 210,00 km whereas VW UK says it needs changing every 5 years/60,000 miles!
One reason I purchased the 18 UpGTI from you was that you had done an oil change
Thanks Gerry, that's good to know. Hope you are still enjoying it!
Another fantastic video ❤ Would it be possible to provide us one on the status of your fleet - seen in the background of this vid ED30 and (I think) Porsche, then there's the Mk2 GTI ? And the Corrado ? So much potential content 😊
Thanks Stewart! All the cars are still here. Mk2 project needs starting up again, Porsche needs a 2023 update video. Corrado is asleep in garage. So keep a look out as definitely need to make some more varied content soon
Does this affect the EA888 in the mk6 Golf GTI?
I don't want to say for sure it's the same as it's a different generation of EA888, certainly capacity may vary and you've got a metal sump and plug.
Do you actually need a torque wrench when carrying out work on your car, I don’t have one but I’ve serviced my car before and just tightened it up manually was this completely wrong?
Andrew will give the technical answer but as I have learnt.... Most likely you would be over tightening every time without one. As an engineer said to me once...how tight? Not as tight as you think. 👍
I've been servicing my cars for 50 years and have never used a torque wrench. Although, maybe it is necessary now with brand new cars.
It’s good practise to use one but not 100% necessary. Certain bolts on VAG cars are stretch bolts, and should be tightened up to the spec torque for safety reasons. Also you’ve got stuff like knock sensors, where by the torque can influence the correct operation of the sensor.
I started using them when doing cambelts because there is a lot lose if you get it wrong particularly with regards to the nut that holds the tensioner onto the stud and engine mounts. It's less important with servicing but have just seen so much extra work from overtightened things from professional mechanics I use it when I can. Wheel bolts for example are pretty much always way too tight when cars come in and I often have to use a breaker bar to get them off which slows down wheel removal massively. Also locking wheel bolt keys can only take so much torque before they break and you are stuck. I'll always take wheels off and retorque on my own cars as a matter of course.
So true Graeme, especially of wheel bolts
Quality video... Thank you 👍
Thank you so much Malc 👍👍
During the 12k I've done in my 7.5 it's had 3 oil changes, don't know how anybody can do the longlife thing..
It's because people don't care about the damage they are doing because it's owners later down the line that will suffer
@@volkswizard If they reply- 'but the manufacturer says it's ok, surely they know what they're talking about', what would you say?
wise words
Hi mom
Hi son 👍
Great content
Thanks so much 👍
I picked up a polo 2.0 gti yesterday that will get fresh oil every 5k
Lucky you and lucky car!
The Electric Armageddon !!!!!!!! I dread the thought
Me too sir!
Oil and filter on these engines especially, every 5k, minimum.
I refuse to let them run any longer.
👍
Borrowed time is tracking any car and changing it @ 5k mile intervals.
Agreed, I'll probably do another quickly after depending on weather (temperature) on track day
So im f****d? My mk7 clubsport, already 6 years old, only had long life services, so my engine is bad now?
Not necessarily, but it definitely won't hurt to start changing your oil a lot more often... Mine had been on a long life plan when I bought it at 69k miles... I change the oil every 5k miles using Quantum 5w30 504/507 and a Mann filter 🙂
Longlife is fine on low mileage cars, say up to 5k in 2 years on the same oil, can't see a problem unless all short journeys and car never warms up as risk of polluting oil with fuel. If you do just 5k in 2 years in a CSS you should be shot anyway though, these cars are for driving 🔫😁
Channeling my dear old late Dad.... Bugger what the manufacturer says, oil every six months, son. 🫵😁
Old school is best school 👍🏻