DUDE! WOW thank you so much for this very detailed tutorial! I ordered the light kit from Amazon and just installed it. Worked perfect! (I went for the cigarette lighter power option) Thanks again.
Such a thorough how to. I've installed wire kits in different cars over the years so finding the best location to get through the firewallwas most helpful for me. Thanks ! I was planning on buying a used Tesla receiver hitch and wire harness and then pay service department to enable trailer mode But they refused to do it without me purchasing everything from them at 2x the cost. So they did me a favor because now I'm using all aftermarket parts and saving 4x the money ! Thanks Tesla for not looking out for your customers lol
Since this is connected to the Tesla battery and is not hard wired into the tail lights how does it know when to shut down? Is this going to create a constant draw on the Tesla since it will always be monitoring the emf of the trailer wiring? How does this vary from the official Tesla tow package??
Nice video. Very clear directions. Thanks. Let me ask a very stupid question. Can we use the cigarette lighter connector for the 12VDC so that we don't need to fish the positive cable all the way to the battery in the frunk? The cigarette lighter connector is always powered on.
I suppose you could. But that also means that you can't use the cigarette outlet for anything else. And it won't look as nice either. I don't know that there aren't any issues with the lighting controller if you plug and unplug the cigarette lighter cord which would cycle power the power. I'd say to at least do a trailer light test EVERY time towing a trailer after that cord got disconnected. In my case, the client wanted a full, complete, attractive installation where there was nothing to mess up or look out of the ordinary.
This will save me some time. Tesla recently changed to not provide power to the trailer connector behind the bumper cover unless an OEM hitch and cable is installed. I had made a harness for my 2020 Model Y and it worked, but not on my 2022! Service suggested I replace with the $1300 OEM. I plan to run the power wire to the penthouse under the passenger rear seat. Thanks!!
Could you share how you made the harness? I have that same open plug on my M3P 9/2020 under the rear bumper cover and I would much rather use power from there instead of running a line under the car or through the firewall.
Its pretty complicated, need to buy a connector, multiple types of pins to go in the connector, a specialized crimping tool for the pins and follow the wiring diagram in the Tesla service manual to connect the correct wires to the appropriate pins. I don't have the info with me as I'm on vacation, but will be able to give you connector and pins I used. I bought them at mouser. Let me know if you want me to get to it when I return.@@colbyh5180
@@colbyh5180Its pretty complicated, need to buy a connector, multiple types of pins to go in the connector, a specialized crimping tool for the pins and follow the wiring diagram in the Tesla service manual to connect the correct wires to the appropriate pins. I don't have the info with me as I'm on vacation, but will be able to give you connector and pins I used. I bought them at mouser. Let me know if you want me to get to it when I return.
,Its pretty complicated, need to buy a connector, multiple types of pins to go in the connector, a specialized crimping tool for the pins and follow the wiring diagram in the Tesla service manual to connect the correct wires to the appropriate pins. I don't have the info with me as I'm on vacation, but will be able to give you connector and pins I used. I bought them at mouser. Let me know if you want me to get to it when I return.
Its always best to also test each signal individually especially on a new install so you make sure they aren't inverted at the plug. Testing only on 4 ways won't show that and it does happen....
Andy, were you the one who had a similar comment on one of my other videos? I remember somebody saying something similar on another video about how he works in trucking and he's seen some really crazy things with trailers over the years. Earlier, I tested all the signals individually. For anyone working on their own trailer, I encourage you to get an assistant so that you can not only test all positions of the turn signals, but also turning on and off the headlights AND try it all again with somebody pumping the brake pedal.
@@BenjaminNelsonX yes I am, I have seen it many times that they are inverted out on the road. I agree with what you commented, pretty common to have bad trailer grounds back feeding making lights do weird things.
Glad to know you are a steady viewer! It's sometime hard to cover everything in a video, every possible exception, etc. Good to have comments to always be able to add to the conversation. Thanks for your input.
Why couldn't you use the 12v accessory port in the trunk rather than running the wire all the way to the battery? Seems like it would almost be better because then it would only be powered when the car was on and would have been way easier to install?
I'm guessing it's probably for the reason of not splicing into a wire and I get that but man that's a whole lot of work to do just to not splice into a wire.
You COULD use the 12V accessory port. But there would be a few things to think about. 1) The trailer lighting controller uses extra power, and you would always have to account for that when drawing power through the 12V port to not overload the wiring/fuse/etc. 2) Some people have concerns about ANY splicing of wiring in a Tesla, with thoughts that it may cause issues with warranty support. 3) If a person instead used a male 12V plug to simply plug in power to the port, then the port is occupied and can't be used for something else. A Y-Adapter would solve that, but then it's still more ugly wiring, including that the 12V+ wire would still need to loop back somewhere behind the panel. 4) If power goes on and off to the 12V jack, it might cause issues because of the "LEARN" mode of the lighting controller. 5) It's the "right" way to install the controller. Since I was a third party installing a piece of equipment on somebody else's car, I did want to follow the manufacturers directions. If something went wrong with it in the future, we could rule out the installation procedure.
Running the wire down the side of the car really wasn't difficult at all. It was a bit challenging getting the wire through the firewall, just because it's dark and up under the dash. If I were to do an installation like this again, I could probably do the whole thing start to finish in an hour.
Not sure how much this matters or not, but the guy who I installed the wiring for is TECHNICALLY not the vehicle owner. It's a company vehicle, and he's been with the company a long time, but it's not actually his name on the title. If needed, the wiring could be completely removed with ZERO changes to the vehicle. I suppose you could even do this for a leased vehicle.
Probably not. I was just the guy installing the harness on this car. I shot this video at the beginning of summer. If you look close, you can see that IS the Solar Trailer being towed! It even has solar panels stacked on it. This was just before I started work on that project.
Surly this is not the way to install hitch wiring these days, how does the car know it has a trailer or is hitched, none of the trailer stability, abs and maybe even regen modes will be working correctly. A correctly coded to the vehicle tow harness is what’s needed not just extending the wires. 🤔
DUDE! WOW thank you so much for this very detailed tutorial! I ordered the light kit from Amazon and just installed it. Worked perfect! (I went for the cigarette lighter power option) Thanks again.
Such a thorough how to. I've installed wire kits in different cars over the years so finding the best location to get through the firewallwas most helpful for me. Thanks ! I was planning on buying a used Tesla receiver hitch and wire harness and then pay service department to enable trailer mode But they refused to do it without me purchasing everything from them at 2x the cost. So they did me a favor because now I'm using all aftermarket parts and saving 4x the money ! Thanks Tesla for not looking out for your customers lol
Woo! Love your videos Ben. Thanks for the instructions!
Thanks for the overall details & the wiring colors. It's the same for an Australian delivered shanghia built model 3.
The reverse wire is one of the White wires, in the loom going up the right side C pillar, near the seat belt. Seen of the left at 15:26
Nice of you to share so much information. You've been doing this a long time
Right back at you, Steve!
Can we use the 12v penthouse under the rear seat?
Since this is connected to the Tesla battery and is not hard wired into the tail lights how does it know when to shut down? Is this going to create a constant draw on the Tesla since it will always be monitoring the emf of the trailer wiring? How does this vary from the official Tesla tow package??
Nice video. Very clear directions. Thanks. Let me ask a very stupid question. Can we use the cigarette lighter connector for the 12VDC so that we don't need to fish the positive cable all the way to the battery in the frunk? The cigarette lighter connector is always powered on.
I suppose you could. But that also means that you can't use the cigarette outlet for anything else. And it won't look as nice either.
I don't know that there aren't any issues with the lighting controller if you plug and unplug the cigarette lighter cord which would cycle power the power. I'd say to at least do a trailer light test EVERY time towing a trailer after that cord got disconnected.
In my case, the client wanted a full, complete, attractive installation where there was nothing to mess up or look out of the ordinary.
This will save me some time. Tesla recently changed to not provide power to the trailer connector behind the bumper cover unless an OEM hitch and cable is installed. I had made a harness for my 2020 Model Y and it worked, but not on my 2022! Service suggested I replace with the $1300 OEM. I plan to run the power wire to the penthouse under the passenger rear seat. Thanks!!
Could you share how you made the harness? I have that same open plug on my M3P 9/2020 under the rear bumper cover and I would much rather use power from there instead of running a line under the car or through the firewall.
Its pretty complicated, need to buy a connector, multiple types of pins to go in the connector, a specialized crimping tool for the pins and follow the wiring diagram in the Tesla service manual to connect the correct wires to the appropriate pins. I don't have the info with me as I'm on vacation, but will be able to give you connector and pins I used. I bought them at mouser. Let me know if you want me to get to it when I return.@@colbyh5180
@@colbyh5180Its pretty complicated, need to buy a connector, multiple types of pins to go in the connector, a specialized crimping tool for the pins and follow the wiring diagram in the Tesla service manual to connect the correct wires to the appropriate pins. I don't have the info with me as I'm on vacation, but will be able to give you connector and pins I used. I bought them at mouser. Let me know if you want me to get to it when I return.
,Its pretty complicated, need to buy a connector, multiple types of pins to go in the connector, a specialized crimping tool for the pins and follow the wiring diagram in the Tesla service manual to connect the correct wires to the appropriate pins. I don't have the info with me as I'm on vacation, but will be able to give you connector and pins I used. I bought them at mouser. Let me know if you want me to get to it when I return.
@@dbwelder9159 Yes, that would be great if you dont mind when you return. Thank you!
I have the M3 Performance 20'. From top to bottom my wire colors are gray, purple, red, black. I'm guessing the functions are in the same order still.
Its always best to also test each signal individually especially on a new install so you make sure they aren't inverted at the plug. Testing only on 4 ways won't show that and it does happen....
Andy, were you the one who had a similar comment on one of my other videos? I remember somebody saying something similar on another video about how he works in trucking and he's seen some really crazy things with trailers over the years.
Earlier, I tested all the signals individually.
For anyone working on their own trailer, I encourage you to get an assistant so that you can not only test all positions of the turn signals, but also turning on and off the headlights AND try it all again with somebody pumping the brake pedal.
@@BenjaminNelsonX yes I am, I have seen it many times that they are inverted out on the road.
I agree with what you commented, pretty common to have bad trailer grounds back feeding making lights do weird things.
Glad to know you are a steady viewer!
It's sometime hard to cover everything in a video, every possible exception, etc. Good to have comments to always be able to add to the conversation.
Thanks for your input.
@@BenjaminNelsonX np. I've been watching for a few years.
You did a good job.
Hey Ben, I bought the same harness and I live in Elm Grove. Any cautions or recommendations?
Will the wiring work on a model s, 2016?
I would think that cigarette mightier was hot all the time needed saving you wiring to the battery.?
Thinking the same thing. Even if the lighter was only powered with the car on it's the way I would go with.
Why couldn't you use the 12v accessory port in the trunk rather than running the wire all the way to the battery? Seems like it would almost be better because then it would only be powered when the car was on and would have been way easier to install?
I'm guessing it's probably for the reason of not splicing into a wire and I get that but man that's a whole lot of work to do just to not splice into a wire.
You COULD use the 12V accessory port.
But there would be a few things to think about.
1) The trailer lighting controller uses extra power, and you would always have to account for that when drawing power through the 12V port to not overload the wiring/fuse/etc.
2) Some people have concerns about ANY splicing of wiring in a Tesla, with thoughts that it may cause issues with warranty support.
3) If a person instead used a male 12V plug to simply plug in power to the port, then the port is occupied and can't be used for something else. A Y-Adapter would solve that, but then it's still more ugly wiring, including that the 12V+ wire would still need to loop back somewhere behind the panel.
4) If power goes on and off to the 12V jack, it might cause issues because of the "LEARN" mode of the lighting controller.
5) It's the "right" way to install the controller. Since I was a third party installing a piece of equipment on somebody else's car, I did want to follow the manufacturers directions. If something went wrong with it in the future, we could rule out the installation procedure.
Running the wire down the side of the car really wasn't difficult at all. It was a bit challenging getting the wire through the firewall, just because it's dark and up under the dash.
If I were to do an installation like this again, I could probably do the whole thing start to finish in an hour.
Not sure how much this matters or not, but the guy who I installed the wiring for is TECHNICALLY not the vehicle owner. It's a company vehicle, and he's been with the company a long time, but it's not actually his name on the title. If needed, the wiring could be completely removed with ZERO changes to the vehicle.
I suppose you could even do this for a leased vehicle.
Thanks for all your replies! Having to relearn after a power loss would be annoying.
At some point will the Tesla meet the solar trailer,and see exactly how much charge we can get into the car.. miles per day?
Probably not. I was just the guy installing the harness on this car.
I shot this video at the beginning of summer. If you look close, you can see that IS the Solar Trailer being towed! It even has solar panels stacked on it. This was just before I started work on that project.
@@BenjaminNelsonX you have an imiev so still an option there?
Oh yes, absolutely. I can also tow/charge with our 2012 Chevy Volt.
Not exactly going to have great solar charging during the winter solstice though!
Why not to connect it to the fuse box? There are unused slots, but it will be protected by a fuse at least.
Part of it is that the owner wanted the original vehicle system left COMPLETELY untouched.
Easier still, connect to the 12V power socket in the Trunk. It can supply 16A, and has overcurrent protection.
Please read the MANY comments already listed about this.
Surly this is not the way to install hitch wiring these days, how does the car know it has a trailer or is hitched, none of the trailer stability, abs and maybe even regen modes will be working correctly. A correctly coded to the vehicle tow harness is what’s needed not just extending the wires. 🤔
Tesla has a trailer package available for this car. It's $1,200 and needs to be bought at time of vehicle configuration.