What a great tutorial! My bike 2002 Kodiak was leaking gas and running really rough with power loss. I ordered a rebuild lit and broke down the carburator per your excellent video. Lo and behold, debris in the float bowl below the intake and no screen filter on my intake port. I hadn't rebuilt a carburator in 30 years but your instruction were spot on. Thanks for saving me $300!
thank you so much.. i just did A rebuild on my very first atv and it only started for 15 seconds and nothing after that.. I knew for sure it was the carb but didn't know what exactly.. But then seen you showing the needle part and the little bracket that slides the needle over the float and noticed i didn't have 1 because apparently the previous owner didn't put 1 on after he took it apart... thank you now i know what to buy
Just cleaned my 04 Kodiak 400, starts well, no power/high revs, starts to backfire/choke as the throttle is pressed, revs increase. Carb was fairly clean. The pilot screw was ~2.25 turns out, set it at 1.75, not 1.5.
Great detail. You make the fix look fairly easy. I've got a 2006 450 Kodiak that sat idle for about 9 months. Went to start it and now it won't run without choke. I suspect bad gas/carb problem. Armed with this info, I think I might give this a try. Thanks.
I just got a 2002 Kodiak 400 that had been sitting most of the time, so it had not so fresh gas in it but it did run pretty good, it wasn't bad but it also had been run it's whole life through hay fields. Make a long story short, I done the complete fuel system, tank, line, carb, breather, and fresh gas. The carb wasn't too bad, but I give it a good cleaning. Pressure washed the entire bike, put the carb back on, and now the bike will backfire and quit if I touch the throttle, it will idle but the second I hit the throttle it sounds like a rev limiter sound.
Sounds like it's with sucking air from somewhere or not getting enough fuel. Make sure the choke is screwed in all the way and I would check to make sure you can see light through the pilot jet. Also make sure the slide moves freely, I had one where the slide stuck wide open and it acted similarly. Don't spray the rubber diaphragm on top of the slide with carb cleaner, it will damage it and not let it move smoothly. Let me know what you find.
@@TepcoCycleRepair First off, a big THANK YOU for replying to me, I really appreciate you helping me. I did all that you suggested, the slide works perfect. I took the carb back off, took out the choke, it was clean, took out all the jets, the pilot jet was clean but I ran a real fine piece of wire through it anyway, took out diaphragm again and inspected it, it's in real good shape, no tears or rips looks brand new. I sprayed with carb cleaner and blew out with compressed air. I put all jets back in, put the choke back in with a small film of two in one oil on the o-ring and lightly tightened it, and put the carb back on, started the bike and it done the same thing, I let it idle for about three or four minutes and hit the throttle again AND IT WORKED, for about five minutes I revved it up, let it idle, revved it up and so on. Than it went back to popping, backfiring and bogging down. But when I let off the throttle it picks itself back up and idles nice. I kept pumping the throttle hoping it would clear but it didn't. By now I am at my whits end! I must add that I did check the intake rubber flange and it's not cracked it's in good shape. I even took a can of ether and sprayed around the flange and around the choke area when the engine was running and the engine never changed rpm. I took the carb back off again, again it was very clean, I sprayed it with cleaner and blew it out again. Put it back on and it done the same thing. If it acts up and I pump the throttle it will clear and I can rev it up, but if I let off and try to give it throttle slowly as if I was driving the bike and taking off slow, it will do the popping and backfiring and sound just like a bike with a rev limiter ( I had a can-am outlander when in reverse if you didn't push the override button it would sound exactly like this). When I first took the carb apart, the fuel air mixture screw was one and a quarter turns out, so that's where I set it back to (it's a real pain to adjust because I have to loosed the carb and tilt it to adjust, because I haven't got a proper screwdriver yet). So that's where I am at.
@@TepcoCycleRepair Is there a rev limiter on this bike? If so what are the chances of testing it. I have read on some forums about other Yamaha atv's that there is a reverse limiter. The reason I ask is I just keep going back to saying how it sounds like how a rev limiter acts. My head is spinning because I keep thinking back when I pulled the carb off I pressure washed the bike because it was a mess, so it keeps running through my head, is there something I done with the pressure washer. I ALWAYS start and run everything that I pressure was after I'm done, but because I had taken the carb off I didn't start the bike.
@@fourbyfourer ok sounds like you're covering everything. Let's try this put a clear cup or glass jar under the drain hose of the carburetor open the drain flathead screw and catch all the fuel, about a half quart. Make sure you're catching it in a clear container. Now look at the fuel that you caught and see if it's milky at all or if it has any visible water in it. If you had a small amount of water in the gas can that you put into the ATV water always sits at the bottom so it'll sit at the bottom of the carburetor causing it to pop. So look at that. As far as a rev limiter yes it does have a rev limiter. You may want to check your connections, just unplug them spray them with electrical cleaner and use some dielectric grease and reassemble. I would check for water in the fuel first. Good luck!
@@TepcoCycleRepair UPDATE: I checked the fuel and no water, and not milky. I did put fuel stabilizer in the tank as I always do. I even hooked up the gas tank off my Honda TRX 300 temporarily and no change. I tried a new spark plug just to rule that out, no change. Again, at one point it did clear itself for maybe twenty-thirty seconds but right back to acting up. I did check all my connections (plug ins) and sprayed them, no change.
Thanks for the very detailed and thorough video. I watched a number of them and this one helped me the most. It sat through the winter, wouldn't start in the spring. Decided to use a rebuild kit along with general cleaning. Replaced all three jets and the float needle and mixture as well. Now it starts instantly and idles perfectly. However, open the throttle and it almost immediately bogs down, stumbles, and then stalls. Went back in to make sure I didn't mix up the two main jets and just generally make sure I put everything back the way it was. Any suggestions on what this might be now? BTW, I didn't touch the diaphragm side of the carb. Could that be messed up now and preventing the CV slide from moving, starving it of air? Thanks again for all the details.
Hi hoping you will answer. I have a 2007 Baja 400. It is supposed to be a Kodiac Clone. My question though I have not removed carb yet it : there is a plastic odd almost like an air colnoid that has three inlet hoses attached that sits just by the fuel tank on the right side. The small 1/4 inch hose goes to the carb. The one other to a device that then goes to exhaust near motor & one is missing completely from the plastic 3 inlet object. I have looked for days to find the missing broken off hose or where it could attach to the quad. Any idea? Also I am not even sure which of the 3 inlets on plastic object is pipe to the exhaust as I yanked & pulled off. Any help sure be appreciated? Thanks Tossdart
Usually, the hoses going to the carb are vent hoses, fuel line and drain for over flow. I'm not familiar with that Baja unit but some machines will run a case breather from the crank case of valve cover to the airbox to burn case pressure oil. Now what it sounds like on yours is that you have a vacuum actuator fuel petcock. It probably says on and reserve but no off. The line going towards the exhaust is probably the pulse like and is not actually going to the exhaust. The other two are probably on and reserve.
So everyone knows there's a kit for these. Pretty much universal for any Yamaha cheese 🍆 limited slip 4x4 front differential, gives you the locker mechanism, factory Yamaha 4x with locked position 4x switch w plug and play wiring. Pretty simple, awesome and affordable like$350 or so I believe.
It has been very difficult to figure out which Mikuni Carburetor my 2007 450 Grizzly uses. You find one number for the Carb but that doesn't translate into a Rebuild Kit. The Carb is listed by part number and the Carb kit is listed by size like VM33. Not sure if I ordered the correct rebuild kit or not. Wonder why the Rebuild kit doesn't come with the Diaphragms.
The larger on on the top is just an open line. It allows the CV slide to move up and down. It's there and just routed out of the way to prevent dirt and water from getting in there. If you don't have one I would pull the cap of the carb off, make sure it's clean. Put a hose on it and run it down ward so any water that gets in can drain back out.
@@TepcoCycleRepair I've cleaned the carb atleast 20 different times and adjusted it and it still will not go past half throttle unless it is choked or I used starter fluid
@@cameronhouse23 Are you running it with the air box off? If so put it on and see how it does. Some machines run like crap with the air box off. So air box on, clean filter and let me know how it does.
Float height should be 13mm from the bowl gasket surface. This should be measured with the float needle tab just resting on the flat needle and measured to the bottom of the float. It won't run right if it's 5mm different from this one.
On my 03 Kodiak 400 4x4 it blogs down when you apply full throttle and never reaches pass 35 mph. I suspect its the jets are dirty. And o rings need replacing. ill have to remove it and take a look see whats wrong.
Tepco Cycle Repair also all the jets screw in all the way? And just the Pilot jet is adjustable? Only says to take note of how many turns the pilot jet screw is. In manual
Make sure your throttle cable is fully seated at both ends and that it is resting on the the idle screw. If all that is good, check your mixture screw setting and make sure you put the tiny o-ring back in there.
@@TepcoCycleRepair I ran into the same problem on my Kodiak - same year and model. This new OEM Mikuni has a brass plug preventing access to the mixture screw. Any suggestions?
@@stephenhelton7709 No problem, if it's the tube coming straight out of the side, it's just a vent tube. It needs to stay unblocked and just route it down so water can't get in it.
Can someone help me out by giving a ballpark figure of how long this job (removing, cleaning, replacing a carburetor on my 2004 Yamaha Kodiak 400) should take an $85/hour mechanic? He's not an amateur, but he's not, obviously, the most high-end pro. I just wanted to make sure he's giving me a realistic estimate; told him i'd call him soon to tell him whether or not i'd hire him. He was very gracious about it and said i was smart to do my homework. Any estimates?
@@TepcoCycleRepair Thanks so much for your quick reply! I was thinking there's probably some bike shop handbook giving standard allowances for frequent jobs like these... but your answer is good. It is less than what this guy quoted. But-- it is true that he came up to my place and, realizing that it was more work than he wanted to do out in the rain today, came back again with a trailer and a helper and loaded up the ATV to bring down to his garage (he said he was doing this for free, as a favor, and that the carb job itself would cost at least 4 hours). But if i add in the fact that he DID all that runaround, too, maybe $340 is not so bad! Thanks again.
So if I’m having trouble with it not idling it has to be in that pilot jet? Can’t get my quad to idle after a bad gas episode. It actually ‘bacfires’ smoke out the carb. Cleaned it up carb cleaner and air. Guess it’s off to someone with a parts washer.
Tepco Cycle Repair apparently this pilot is adjustable and should have paid attention to how many turns away from seating it was upon disassembly. But thanks for the help.
@@TepcoCycleRepair Thank you very much in advance for responding!!!, I have a Kodiak 400 that is almost 20 years old (produced in 2004), I got it new, almost, with a mileage of no more than 300-400 km, I drive it calmly, no more than 50-60 km per hour.He has never been in swamps, mud. Please tell me, with such an operation, will it travel at least 10,000 kilometers without breakdowns? Of course I will change the oil in it, filters
@@TepcoCycleRepair Thank you very much for the answer, I use a translator, since I am from Russia. Many people are confused by his age, almost 20 years old, but honestly it doesn't bother me, I have a friend, he has a CF moto, and to be honest, he looks MUCH worse and rides than my Kodiak)))
What a great tutorial! My bike 2002 Kodiak was leaking gas and running really rough with power loss. I ordered a rebuild lit and broke down the carburator per your excellent video. Lo and behold, debris in the float bowl below the intake and no screen filter on my intake port. I hadn't rebuilt a carburator in 30 years but your instruction were spot on. Thanks for saving me $300!
Awesome! Glad I could help, thanks for the feedback!
Extremely thorough and well done, thank you!
Thanks so much. Could not have done it without your video. Greatly appreciated.
thank you so much.. i just did A rebuild on my very first atv and it only started for 15 seconds and nothing after that.. I knew for sure it was the carb but didn't know what exactly.. But then seen you showing the needle part and the little bracket that slides the needle over the float and noticed i didn't have 1 because apparently the previous owner didn't put 1 on after he took it apart... thank you now i know what to buy
I just did a carb clean and rebuild on my 03 kodiak, and this video helped. It saved me a lot of fumbling with getting the tank and cover off. Thanks!
Amazing video!Well explained. Thanks
Very thorough explanations! Thx!
Your all over it great work 👏 👍
Very well explained!
Great video, helps a lot thank’s
Just cleaned my 04 Kodiak 400, starts well, no power/high revs, starts to backfire/choke as the throttle is pressed, revs increase. Carb was fairly clean. The pilot screw was ~2.25 turns out, set it at 1.75, not 1.5.
Great detail. You make the fix look fairly easy. I've got a 2006 450 Kodiak that sat idle for about 9 months. Went to start it and now it won't run without choke. I suspect bad gas/carb problem. Armed with this info, I think I might give this a try. Thanks.
Yep, most likely your pilot jet is clogged. Thanks for watching!
Good tips.
Thank you!
Thank you
I’m missing my vent line and don’t know where it runs to or what it is for. What should I do ?
I just got a 2002 Kodiak 400 that had been sitting most of the time, so it had not so fresh gas in it but it did run pretty good, it wasn't bad but it also had been run it's whole life through hay fields. Make a long story short, I done the complete fuel system, tank, line, carb, breather, and fresh gas. The carb wasn't too bad, but I give it a good cleaning. Pressure washed the entire bike, put the carb back on, and now the bike will backfire and quit if I touch the throttle, it will idle but the second I hit the throttle it sounds like a rev limiter sound.
Sounds like it's with sucking air from somewhere or not getting enough fuel. Make sure the choke is screwed in all the way and I would check to make sure you can see light through the pilot jet. Also make sure the slide moves freely, I had one where the slide stuck wide open and it acted similarly. Don't spray the rubber diaphragm on top of the slide with carb cleaner, it will damage it and not let it move smoothly. Let me know what you find.
@@TepcoCycleRepair First off, a big THANK YOU for replying to me, I really appreciate you helping me. I did all that you suggested, the slide works perfect. I took the carb back off, took out the choke, it was clean, took out all the jets, the pilot jet was clean but I ran a real fine piece of wire through it anyway, took out diaphragm again and inspected it, it's in real good shape, no tears or rips looks brand new. I sprayed with carb cleaner and blew out with compressed air. I put all jets back in, put the choke back in with a small film of two in one oil on the o-ring and lightly tightened it, and put the carb back on, started the bike and it done the same thing, I let it idle for about three or four minutes and hit the throttle again AND IT WORKED, for about five minutes I revved it up, let it idle, revved it up and so on. Than it went back to popping, backfiring and bogging down. But when I let off the throttle it picks itself back up and idles nice. I kept pumping the throttle hoping it would clear but it didn't. By now I am at my whits end!
I must add that I did check the intake rubber flange and it's not cracked it's in good shape. I even took a can of ether and sprayed around the flange and around the choke area when the engine was running and the engine never changed rpm. I took the carb back off again, again it was very clean, I sprayed it with cleaner and blew it out again. Put it back on and it done the same thing. If it acts up and I pump the throttle it will clear and I can rev it up, but if I let off and try to give it throttle slowly as if I was driving the bike and taking off slow, it will do the popping and backfiring and sound just like a bike with a rev limiter ( I had a can-am outlander when in reverse if you didn't push the override button it would sound exactly like this). When I first took the carb apart, the fuel air mixture screw was one and a quarter turns out, so that's where I set it back to (it's a real pain to adjust because I have to loosed the carb and tilt it to adjust, because I haven't got a proper screwdriver yet). So that's where I am at.
@@TepcoCycleRepair Is there a rev limiter on this bike? If so what are the chances of testing it. I have read on some forums about other Yamaha atv's that there is a reverse limiter. The reason I ask is I just keep going back to saying how it sounds like how a rev limiter acts. My head is spinning because I keep thinking back when I pulled the carb off I pressure washed the bike because it was a mess, so it keeps running through my head, is there something I done with the pressure washer. I ALWAYS start and run everything that I pressure was after I'm done, but because I had taken the carb off I didn't start the bike.
@@fourbyfourer ok sounds like you're covering everything. Let's try this put a clear cup or glass jar under the drain hose of the carburetor open the drain flathead screw and catch all the fuel, about a half quart. Make sure you're catching it in a clear container. Now look at the fuel that you caught and see if it's milky at all or if it has any visible water in it. If you had a small amount of water in the gas can that you put into the ATV water always sits at the bottom so it'll sit at the bottom of the carburetor causing it to pop. So look at that.
As far as a rev limiter yes it does have a rev limiter. You may want to check your connections, just unplug them spray them with electrical cleaner and use some dielectric grease and reassemble. I would check for water in the fuel first. Good luck!
@@TepcoCycleRepair UPDATE: I checked the fuel and no water, and not milky. I did put fuel stabilizer in the tank as I always do. I even hooked up the gas tank off my Honda TRX 300 temporarily and no change. I tried a new spark plug just to rule that out, no change. Again, at one point it did clear itself for maybe twenty-thirty seconds but right back to acting up. I did check all my connections (plug ins) and sprayed them, no change.
I subscribed 😎
Thanks for the very detailed and thorough video. I watched a number of them and this one helped me the most. It sat through the winter, wouldn't start in the spring. Decided to use a rebuild kit along with general cleaning. Replaced all three jets and the float needle and mixture as well. Now it starts instantly and idles perfectly. However, open the throttle and it almost immediately bogs down, stumbles, and then stalls. Went back in to make sure I didn't mix up the two main jets and just generally make sure I put everything back the way it was. Any suggestions on what this might be now? BTW, I didn't touch the diaphragm side of the carb. Could that be messed up now and preventing the CV slide from moving, starving it of air? Thanks again for all the details.
Yes definitely make sure the slide moves up and down smoothly and doesn't get stuck in the up position.
@@TepcoCycleRepair Will do. Thanks once again for your help and advice.
Hi hoping you will answer. I have a 2007 Baja 400. It is supposed to be a Kodiac Clone. My question though I have not removed carb yet it : there is a plastic odd almost like an air colnoid that has three inlet hoses attached that sits just by the fuel tank on the right side. The small 1/4 inch hose goes to the carb. The one other to a device that then goes to exhaust near motor & one is missing completely from the plastic 3 inlet object. I have looked for days to find the missing broken off hose or where it could attach to the quad. Any idea? Also I am not even sure which of the 3 inlets on plastic object is pipe to the exhaust as I yanked & pulled off. Any help sure be appreciated? Thanks Tossdart
Usually, the hoses going to the carb are vent hoses, fuel line and drain for over flow. I'm not familiar with that Baja unit but some machines will run a case breather from the crank case of valve cover to the airbox to burn case pressure oil. Now what it sounds like on yours is that you have a vacuum actuator fuel petcock. It probably says on and reserve but no off. The line going towards the exhaust is probably the pulse like and is not actually going to the exhaust. The other two are probably on and reserve.
So everyone knows there's a kit for these. Pretty much universal for any Yamaha cheese 🍆 limited slip 4x4 front differential, gives you the locker mechanism, factory Yamaha 4x with locked position 4x switch w plug and play wiring. Pretty simple, awesome and affordable like$350 or so I believe.
With that much rust i would just bought a new carburetor assembly but those cost $500 from yamaha. Guess it wouldn’t be in the budget. But great video
99% of the time I can restore the OEM carb.
It has been very difficult to figure out which Mikuni Carburetor my 2007 450 Grizzly uses. You find one number for the Carb but that doesn't translate into a Rebuild Kit. The Carb is listed by part number and the Carb kit is listed by size like VM33. Not sure if I ordered the correct rebuild kit or not. Wonder why the Rebuild kit doesn't come with the Diaphragms.
Diaphragms are difficult to find for some bikes. And some just aren't made anymore.
would this be the same disassemble process ish as replacing a throttle cable 2001 yamaha kodiak
Yes, I believe it's the same.
How do you re install??
Where does that first vent you mentioned on the right of the carb go to? I'm missing mine and I think that could be the issue with the carb
The larger on on the top is just an open line. It allows the CV slide to move up and down. It's there and just routed out of the way to prevent dirt and water from getting in there. If you don't have one I would pull the cap of the carb off, make sure it's clean. Put a hose on it and run it down ward so any water that gets in can drain back out.
@@TepcoCycleRepair I've cleaned the carb atleast 20 different times and adjusted it and it still will not go past half throttle unless it is choked or I used starter fluid
@@cameronhouse23 Are you running it with the air box off? If so put it on and see how it does. Some machines run like crap with the air box off. So air box on, clean filter and let me know how it does.
@@TepcoCycleRepair I put a new carb on it and it fixed it. No idea why the carb clean wasn't working
@@cameronhouse23 Never know, sometimes these carbs fight back..glad you got it fixed!
I'm not sure the exact float height on that carb, but mine sits about 5mm higher than yours, is that okay?
Float height should be 13mm from the bowl gasket surface. This should be measured with the float needle tab just resting on the flat needle and measured to the bottom of the float. It won't run right if it's 5mm different from this one.
On my 03 Kodiak 400 4x4 it blogs down when you apply full throttle and never reaches pass 35 mph. I suspect its the jets are dirty. And o rings need replacing. ill have to remove it and take a look see whats wrong.
Yes, give the carb a good clean. New plug and be sure you're using fresh gas!
Tepco Cycle Repair i use 91 octane
Tepco Cycle Repair also just got the Factory Yamaha Service manual. So it help in the repair. Wish there was a helm manual but this good enough
Tepco Cycle Repair also all the jets screw in all the way? And just the Pilot jet is adjustable? Only says to take note of how many turns the pilot jet screw is. In manual
I cleaned my carb today kodiak 400 2000 model now it idles high whst do you suggest
Make sure your throttle cable is fully seated at both ends and that it is resting on the the idle screw. If all that is good, check your mixture screw setting and make sure you put the tiny o-ring back in there.
@@TepcoCycleRepair I ran into the same problem on my Kodiak - same year and model. This new OEM Mikuni has a brass plug preventing access to the mixture screw. Any suggestions?
I just replaced my carb. Came with a fuel filter. Where is the fuel filter. Mine is a 2001
There is an in tank filter, if it's an aftermarket carb they probably just sent an in line filter. I wouldn't use it.
Thanks man.
Tepco Cycle Repair and sorry one more question. The top vac tube on choke side, where should it end? Does it matter where it runs to?
@@stephenhelton7709 No problem, if it's the tube coming straight out of the side, it's just a vent tube. It needs to stay unblocked and just route it down so water can't get in it.
Can someone help me out by giving a ballpark figure of how long this job (removing, cleaning, replacing a carburetor on my 2004 Yamaha Kodiak 400) should take an $85/hour mechanic? He's not an amateur, but he's not, obviously, the most high-end pro. I just wanted to make sure he's giving me a realistic estimate; told him i'd call him soon to tell him whether or not i'd hire him. He was very gracious about it and said i was smart to do my homework. Any estimates?
Lol, Hi Louie!
No more than 3 hours. It can be done quicker but 3 hrs is about right, I've seen some shops charge 5 hrs which is too much in my opinion.
@@TepcoCycleRepair Thanks so much for your quick reply! I was thinking there's probably some bike shop handbook giving standard allowances for frequent jobs like these... but your answer is good. It is less than what this guy quoted. But-- it is true that he came up to my place and, realizing that it was more work than he wanted to do out in the rain today, came back again with a trailer and a helper and loaded up the ATV to bring down to his garage (he said he was doing this for free, as a favor, and that the carb job itself would cost at least 4 hours). But if i add in the fact that he DID all that runaround, too, maybe $340 is not so bad! Thanks again.
@@lauracooskey9481 And yes dealers have hr quote programs that tell how long a job takes.
340$ for OEM or the 35$ part on ebay?
you forgot to mention float valve adjustment
No need to adjust it during a cleaning.
Not sure I thought pilot let was on the side of the carb
The air/fuel mixture screw is sometimes on the side but the pilot jet is in the bowl.
Ahh yes that’s right
So if I’m having trouble with it not idling it has to be in that pilot jet? Can’t get my quad to idle after a bad gas episode. It actually ‘bacfires’ smoke out the carb. Cleaned it up carb cleaner and air. Guess it’s off to someone with a parts washer.
@@kansascityshuffle8526 Yes you have time manually clean the pilot with a tiny wire or just buy a new pilot to throw in there.
Tepco Cycle Repair apparently this pilot is adjustable and should have paid attention to how many turns away from seating it was upon disassembly. But thanks for the help.
Здравствуйте,можно вопрос?
Sure, I'll do my best to translate and answer.
@@TepcoCycleRepair
Thank you very much in advance for responding!!!, I have a Kodiak 400 that is almost 20 years old (produced in 2004), I got it new, almost, with a mileage of no more than 300-400 km, I drive it calmly, no more than 50-60 km per hour.He has never been in swamps, mud. Please tell me, with such an operation, will it travel at least 10,000 kilometers without breakdowns? Of course I will change the oil in it, filters
@@user-bj8ly5ed9c Keep the oil filter and air filter clean. It should be ok if you drive it the way you described.
@@TepcoCycleRepair Thank you very much for the answer, I use a translator, since I am from Russia. Many people are confused by his age, almost 20 years old, but honestly it doesn't bother me, I have a friend, he has a CF moto, and to be honest, he looks MUCH worse and rides than my Kodiak)))