Glad you found it helpful! I found the same thing, very few people seemed to even check to make sure they were open. I was mainly just glad I didn’t have the pull another intake assembly off 😂 Thanks for watching!
@@KKE1978 yes, they move pretty easily when not connected to the motor. But the motor is very hard to move and spring loaded to return to open. So if they are hard to move it could be the motor is seized. Or they are clogged or both. 😢
@@MalarkeyTaylor thanks for replying. So how do you find out it if either of those two scenarios are present when still in the car?? How did you move yours to the open positin while still in the car
@@KKE1978 the first one I did I took the manifold out and found the intake very clogged up. So I cleaned it and make sure it was all functional before I disabled the flaps. This one I got an error message that the swirl motor had failed and the car went into limp mode. So I assumed the motor had died. Once I determined that the flaps were open I just disabled the motor so they will stay in the open position. If the motor had failed in the closed position I would probably try to pry or push them open, but if that failed I would remove the manifolds and repair the flaps or remove them.
I refer to it extensively in the video. But a diagram is at 3:46 in the video. I have had these motors apart a few times and was able to verify the open position by referring to previous projects where I had the intakes removed from the car. I discuss this beginning at 02:05 in this video. The flaps Do default to open but when the motors start to go or the linkage becomes worn they can begin getting stuck halfway closed or closed and I wanted to verify they were open before putting tv resistor in.
I have problem with my om642. My turbo leaked oil into the cable you put the resistor in (what I think caused the problem) so I get P1270 code know when I scanned with my obd reader. A very common faulty with the turbo leaking apparently. But what would you say is the fault? Do you think my servo motor for the flaps has been short circuited by the oil so it doesn't work anymore or do you have other suggestions? How do I check that the servo is working?
Very hard to say, the p1270 code I think is a limp code. So you would have that with other faults. The other faults would be what you need to fixed before the 1270. So if the p2008 comes up with the 1270 your flaps maybe stuck and your motor may be bad. If you get rid of the other codes the 1270 shouldn’t come back?
When the car is OFF the flaps should be open. The reason I check to make sure they are in the open position is over time, with build up, the buildup on the flaps can make them hard to move, and they may not close all the way. That is one of the things that leads to the failure of the motor. So they should be open, but I check to make sure before putting the resistor in.
@@Peter-wo4uo yes, that has been the case that I have observed as well. However the linkage eventually wears out and breaks. Or the motor seizes up, or oil leaking from batwing/ccv directly above it cause the motor to fail. So disabling it just leaves them open when the flaps are open. So far so good on the three that I’ve worked on. 🤞
Some years have sensors that detect what the position is of the flaps. Those years you can put the resistor in but it may not prevent the engine light from coming on. If something is rattling. You may have a broken component and it may be best to seek a capable work shop. Or remove the intake and repair or remove the swirl flaps.
Sorry I don’t have experience with the w211. The autel scanner would be able to read the codes and possibly run some tests on the function of the module. But I’m sorry I can’t help beyond that.
Once the resistor is in place and the flaps are left open the code should clear itself eventually. But if you have codes for this I would recommend making sure it’s not anything more serious.
when swirl motor is bypassed and flaps permenantly placed in an open position does this eliminate the engine braking or some call it compression braking effect when car is not accelerating. From what I understand the breaking effect is caused by flaps closing when gas pedal is not pressed.... when you are coasting.. This is especially noticeable at low speeds.
No, no noticeable difference in engine braking. In fact, I have not noticed any difference in performance, fuel economy, or operation of any kind since disabling the flaps on any of the ones I’ve done.
@@MalarkeyTaylor I have this engine in my Jeep Grand Cherokee and have deleted the whole swirl flap system and kept just the resistor in place. The way i heard it the swirl flaps were designed to make the diesel engine sound less like a diesel when idling. I like diesels so don`t care, had zero issues since,,,
@@SeeBird686 there are a few gas engines that use swirl flaps as well. There is something about making the right amount of turbulence to optimize the flow of air. But I too have disabled them for a long time with no noticeable effect.
I tryed the same way on my w221 320cdi ,the car goes out from the limp mode but the motor works with the 50% of the power very lazy . Have i do something worng maybe i didint conect the resistor good? Or my swirl flaps are not fully open?
that is very possible that your swirl flaps are not open and then causing the motor to be restricted. I was very careful to only do this when the swirl flaps could be verified to be open. you could get a camera and look into the intake if you take the charge pipe off and run the camera in.
@@anxhelobarjamaj7979 that’s a tough one. Depending on how badly they are broken it could be as easy as forcing the runner open or as hard as taking the intake manifolds off and removing them.
Do you know how long this will last or any further issues this will cause when done? Also can this method be done if the passenger side is seized shut in the closed position? Thanks
The ones I have done have gone 50,000+ miles without any issues in this configuration. However you should make sure that both sides are in the open position or you could have performance problems and improper fuel burn which may lead to some after treatment failures.
If I ever have the intake manifolds out again on either my dad's or mine I will weld them shut for sure. And if I ever have a need to refresh the Computer I'll get them flashed out as well. A very good option to do that!
gran video , estoy con el mismo problema , mismo codigo , me podrias dar informacion de la resistencia , codigo de colores asi la puedo conseguir , muchas gracias
Hi thank you for you video,i have the same issue on my dodge sprinter 2500 with codes p2004 p2005 and i removed an actuator, i put flaps in open position and tied it up so it doesn’t close and then i put 0.25w 4.7k ohm resistor and it didn’t help because after an hour check engine light came on again.i tried many different resistor and now i put 0.5w 4.7k ohm resistor and check engine light didn’t come up yet but car is not kicking as it used to.Is there any ideas what can i do. Thanks
You might have to check with the details on your specific year. Some newer models have sensors on the flap runners that detect when the flaps are open and when they are closed. In my case there is no sensor so the engine computer doesn't know if the flap motor is broken unless it burns out. But in some newer models there are magnets in the flap runners and Hall effect sensors in the manifold that indicate the position to the ECM. If your Sprinter is newer and has these sensors you may need to check with a mechanic on the right next steps, (or ignore the Check Engine light until 'proper' repairs can be made)
@@MalarkeyTaylor Thank you for your response and communication.My car is 2008 dodge sprinter 3.0l v6 with regular plastic runners and i dont think there is a any sensors left.Just wondering If you know where is the sensor that tells position of flaps and can i delete them or delete the flaps how it would affect to limp mode and smog check.Thank you again i really appreciate what you do
@@Маннон-щ8ъ I’m not sure I can help. None of the ones I’ve worked on have had the issue come back after the application of the resistor and securing of the flaps.
If the swirl valve is working but binding up here and there and tripping the Check Engine and putting me into limp mode is there a way to loosen up the arms or add treatment? I play with the arms, clear the code and it runs great for about 500 miles or so and then the same thing happens. thoughts?
Soot buildup in the intake can cause this. Part of why I disabled the flaps on my cars. Once they are left open the buildup doesn’t matter as much and we can go longer intervals between having to remove and clean the intake manifolds.
@@DougLindland not that I’m aware of. Most of this is the result of the egr and crank case vent sending oil into the intake with exhaust gases. Many people delete those items. But I can’t say how to do that or recommend it as it’s not legal in some parts of the world.
If they are not in the open position when you put the resistor in the engine light may go away but your engine may not perform right and may end up with problems due to the flaps not being open. If they can’t be easily opened by hand you may need to take the entire intake off and clean it and fix the worn connecting rods to get the full range of the flaps back. Or delete them entirely.
I have a 2009 Mercedes c class 250 sport diesel it’s saying charge movement flap malfunction what is by cheapest safest option can I delete the motor /flaps off the ecu
I have done this to two different trucks now. One of them went 40,000 miles and two plus years before it was totaled in an accident. The other is still going after 25,000miles and a little over a year. So if there is a limit I have not found it yet.
I’ve done this with two of them and both have not gotten any more engine lights related to this issue. One has run over 3 years and 40,000miles and the other is a little under a year and 8-9kmiles
I have not noticed a difference in the region activity. Have been running like this for quite some time and many thousands of miles and have had no negative effects that I can tell.
As long as they can be moved you should be able to move them. But if the buildup in the intake is too much or if there is a blockage, or if the swirl motor is seized up one or more of those might prevent you from opening the valve and then moving by hand would be difficult or impossible.
@@MalarkeyTaylor great. Thanks. I want to check if mine is not working properly. No codes so far no limp mode. But car is not giving the same kick as it used to
Is there a potential long term issue if you put resistor in and one or both banks are closed? I put resistor in mine and I have turbo now but didn’t check the linkage...
I think mine are closed. Done the resistor mod and now I cant hear the turbo and car is kinda slow. Not in limo mode but because it goes over 3000rpm. Just slow.
They should be in the open position if they are not stuck. If you can move them to open or make sure they are open it’s best. If they are stuck or broken the resistor may get rid of the motor failure codes, but the motor may have other issues because of the restricted intake. I guess use caution and your best judgement. And if you’re not sure, you may need to consult a mechanic.
No, for this failure it was 2530-4 (on the auto scanner and 2008 on the generic OBD scanner) I think 2513 may also be a swirl motor related problem, but this is not the code I received on this particular unit.
@@mercedesbenzi1259 Sorry I'm not sure. Some newer motors have position sensors that could cause the fix to not work for that. I don't know. It's probably best to take to a qualified work shop, or keeping research o find out what the code means for your particular car. I've use AlldataDIY subscription before to help troubleshoot, but some may take some trial and error.
Keeping the engine out of limp mode. Because of poorly designed intake manifolds and barely useful “swirl” flaps is hardly cheating anything. This tip is for people that want to get 250-300k or more miles out of a car that was written off because the repair cost more than its value. If you are not interested in that sell it and buy a new one that doesn’t need this fix.
Good explanation and tips. Now I need to find out if my swirl flap motor is good or not !
Thanks I’ll let you know if I have any problems
Thank you thank you....most videos on you tube just go straight to the mode before addressing the issue of making sure the flaps are open
Glad you found it helpful! I found the same thing, very few people seemed to even check to make sure they were open.
I was mainly just glad I didn’t have the pull another intake assembly off 😂
Thanks for watching!
@@MalarkeyTaylor i think mine are stuck. They should move easily i assume
@@KKE1978 yes, they move pretty easily when not connected to the motor. But the motor is very hard to move and spring loaded to return to open. So if they are hard to move it could be the motor is seized. Or they are clogged or both. 😢
@@MalarkeyTaylor thanks for replying. So how do you find out it if either of those two scenarios are present when still in the car?? How did you move yours to the open positin while still in the car
@@KKE1978 the first one I did I took the manifold out and found the intake very clogged up. So I cleaned it and make sure it was all functional before I disabled the flaps.
This one I got an error message that the swirl motor had failed and the car went into limp mode. So I assumed the motor had died. Once I determined that the flaps were open I just disabled the motor so they will stay in the open position. If the motor had failed in the closed position I would probably try to pry or push them open, but if that failed I would remove the manifolds and repair the flaps or remove them.
Great video, thanks.
Glad you liked it!
How did you actually confirm that the swirl flaps were in the open position. I did not see that in the video. Would they default to an open position.
I refer to it extensively in the video. But a diagram is at 3:46 in the video.
I have had these motors apart a few times and was able to verify the open position by referring to previous projects where I had the intakes removed from the car.
I discuss this beginning at 02:05 in this video.
The flaps Do default to open but when the motors start to go or the linkage becomes worn they can begin getting stuck halfway closed or closed and I wanted to verify they were open before putting tv resistor in.
I have problem with my om642. My turbo leaked oil into the cable you put the resistor in (what I think caused the problem) so I get P1270 code know when I scanned with my obd reader. A very common faulty with the turbo leaking apparently. But what would you say is the fault? Do you think my servo motor for the flaps has been short circuited by the oil so it doesn't work anymore or do you have other suggestions? How do I check that the servo is working?
Very hard to say, the p1270 code I think is a limp code. So you would have that with other faults. The other faults would be what you need to fixed before the 1270.
So if the p2008 comes up with the 1270 your flaps maybe stuck and your motor may be bad.
If you get rid of the other codes the 1270 shouldn’t come back?
Very good video!!! When you put the resistor and the car is not runing the flaps are open or closed? Thanks for your time
When the car is OFF the flaps should be open. The reason I check to make sure they are in the open position is over time, with build up, the buildup on the flaps can make them hard to move, and they may not close all the way. That is one of the things that leads to the failure of the motor. So they should be open, but I check to make sure before putting the resistor in.
@@MalarkeyTaylor My swirl flap motor works fine, its just that the links are so tired they wont close and open all the way.
@@Peter-wo4uo yes, that has been the case that I have observed as well. However the linkage eventually wears out and breaks. Or the motor seizes up, or oil leaking from batwing/ccv directly above it cause the motor to fail. So disabling it just leaves them open when the flaps are open. So far so good on the three that I’ve worked on. 🤞
If my swirl valve is rattling, what does that mean? Can I bypass the sensor or does that mean it's a different problem?
Some years have sensors that detect what the position is of the flaps. Those years you can put the resistor in but it may not prevent the engine light from coming on.
If something is rattling. You may have a broken component and it may be best to seek a capable work shop. Or remove the intake and repair or remove the swirl flaps.
hey my Mercedes w211 e270 2005 model code shows y27/9 left egr positioner fault what can I do with it. How to repair this
Sorry I don’t have experience with the w211. The autel scanner would be able to read the codes and possibly run some tests on the function of the module. But I’m sorry I can’t help beyond that.
I dont have a mdb tool can you still do the fix without clearing the code ?
Once the resistor is in place and the flaps are left open the code should clear itself eventually. But if you have codes for this I would recommend making sure it’s not anything more serious.
when swirl motor is bypassed and flaps permenantly placed in an open position does this eliminate the engine braking or some call it compression braking effect when car is not accelerating. From what I understand the breaking effect is caused by flaps closing when gas pedal is not pressed.... when you are coasting.. This is especially noticeable at low speeds.
No, no noticeable difference in engine braking.
In fact, I have not noticed any difference in performance, fuel economy, or operation of any kind since disabling the flaps on any of the ones I’ve done.
@@MalarkeyTaylor I have this engine in my Jeep Grand Cherokee and have deleted the whole swirl flap system and kept just the resistor in place. The way i heard it the swirl flaps were designed to make the diesel engine sound less like a diesel when idling. I like diesels so don`t care, had zero issues since,,,
@@SeeBird686 there are a few gas engines that use swirl flaps as well. There is something about making the right amount of turbulence to optimize the flow of air. But I too have disabled them for a long time with no noticeable effect.
I tryed the same way on my w221 320cdi ,the car goes out from the limp mode but the motor works with the 50% of the power very lazy .
Have i do something worng maybe i didint conect the resistor good?
Or my swirl flaps are not fully open?
that is very possible that your swirl flaps are not open and then causing the motor to be restricted. I was very careful to only do this when the swirl flaps could be verified to be open. you could get a camera and look into the intake if you take the charge pipe off and run the camera in.
@@MalarkeyTaylor
aa ok i understand,but now what can i do to open them?
@@anxhelobarjamaj7979 that’s a tough one. Depending on how badly they are broken it could be as easy as forcing the runner open or as hard as taking the intake manifolds off and removing them.
Do you know how long this will last or any further issues this will cause when done?
Also can this method be done if the passenger side is seized shut in the closed position?
Thanks
The ones I have done have gone 50,000+ miles without any issues in this configuration.
However you should make sure that both sides are in the open position or you could have performance problems and improper fuel burn which may lead to some after treatment failures.
Thanks
The motor and flaps have been totally removed and coded out of the ecu on my car
If I ever have the intake manifolds out again on either my dad's or mine I will weld them shut for sure. And if I ever have a need to refresh the Computer I'll get them flashed out as well. A very good option to do that!
gran video , estoy con el mismo problema , mismo codigo , me podrias dar informacion de la resistencia , codigo de colores asi la puedo conseguir , muchas gracias
Sorry my Spanish is not great, but the resistor I used was a 4.7k ohm generic one from Amazon.
@@MalarkeyTaylor muchas gracias , gran video
Hi thank you for you video,i have the same issue on my dodge sprinter 2500 with codes p2004 p2005 and i removed an actuator, i put flaps in open position and tied it up so it doesn’t close and then i put 0.25w 4.7k ohm resistor and it didn’t help because after an hour check engine light came on again.i tried many different resistor and now i put 0.5w 4.7k ohm resistor and check engine light didn’t come up yet but car is not kicking as it used to.Is there any ideas what can i do.
Thanks
You might have to check with the details on your specific year. Some newer models have sensors on the flap runners that detect when the flaps are open and when they are closed. In my case there is no sensor so the engine computer doesn't know if the flap motor is broken unless it burns out. But in some newer models there are magnets in the flap runners and Hall effect sensors in the manifold that indicate the position to the ECM. If your Sprinter is newer and has these sensors you may need to check with a mechanic on the right next steps, (or ignore the Check Engine light until 'proper' repairs can be made)
@@MalarkeyTaylor Thank you for your response and communication.My car is 2008 dodge sprinter 3.0l v6 with regular plastic runners and i dont think there is a any sensors left.Just wondering If you know where is the sensor that tells position of flaps and can i delete them or delete the flaps how it would affect to limp mode and smog check.Thank you again i really appreciate what you do
@@Маннон-щ8ъ I’m not sure I can help. None of the ones I’ve worked on have had the issue come back after the application of the resistor and securing of the flaps.
If the swirl valve is working but binding up here and there and tripping the Check Engine and putting me into limp mode is there a way to loosen up the arms or add treatment? I play with the arms, clear the code and it runs great for about 500 miles or so and then the same thing happens. thoughts?
Soot buildup in the intake can cause this. Part of why I disabled the flaps on my cars. Once they are left open the buildup doesn’t matter as much and we can go longer intervals between having to remove and clean the intake manifolds.
@@MalarkeyTaylor Thanks - does any diesel fuel additive for a Sprinter diesel help with build up?
@@DougLindland not that I’m aware of. Most of this is the result of the egr and crank case vent sending oil into the intake with exhaust gases.
Many people delete those items. But I can’t say how to do that or recommend it as it’s not legal in some parts of the world.
Hello , do I need to move with hand first those flaps to open position , or just to put resistor ?
If they are not in the open position when you put the resistor in the engine light may go away but your engine may not perform right and may end up with problems due to the flaps not being open.
If they can’t be easily opened by hand you may need to take the entire intake off and clean it and fix the worn connecting rods to get the full range of the flaps back. Or delete them entirely.
I have a 2009 Mercedes c class 250 sport diesel it’s saying charge movement flap malfunction what is by cheapest safest option can I delete the motor /flaps off the ecu
Sorry I don’t know the c250 motor. It might be able to be bypassed in the same way but I am not sure.
Hi if how long this resisters can last , eventually do you have to fix the main problem swirl flap
I have done this to two different trucks now. One of them went 40,000 miles and two plus years before it was totaled in an accident. The other is still going after 25,000miles and a little over a year.
So if there is a limit I have not found it yet.
Hey buddy does the check engine light comes back on later
I’ve done this with two of them and both have not gotten any more engine lights related to this issue. One has run over 3 years and 40,000miles and the other is a little under a year and 8-9kmiles
what about DPF regen when swilrl motor is off by resistor ? will regen offten or all is ok ?
I have not noticed a difference in the region activity. Have been running like this for quite some time and many thousands of miles and have had no negative effects that I can tell.
How do you do, lets say if the intake runners are stuck in the middle lets say, not full open position? Can you move them by hand? Thanks
As long as they can be moved you should be able to move them. But if the buildup in the intake is too much or if there is a blockage, or if the swirl motor is seized up one or more of those might prevent you from opening the valve and then moving by hand would be difficult or impossible.
@@MalarkeyTaylor great. Thanks. I want to check if mine is not working properly. No codes so far no limp mode. But car is not giving the same kick as it used to
Is there a potential long term issue if you put resistor in and one or both banks are closed? I put resistor in mine and I have turbo now but didn’t check the linkage...
I think mostly power loss and additional carbon build up in the intake. But I’m not sure if there are others too.
I think mine are closed. Done the resistor mod and now I cant hear the turbo and car is kinda slow. Not in limo mode but because it goes over 3000rpm. Just slow.
Hi, sorry for the time, have a question I want to use the resistor but should I open the flap by myself or keep them in the same position?
They should be in the open position if they are not stuck. If you can move them to open or make sure they are open it’s best. If they are stuck or broken the resistor may get rid of the motor failure codes, but the motor may have other issues because of the restricted intake.
I guess use caution and your best judgement. And if you’re not sure, you may need to consult a mechanic.
@@MalarkeyTaylor OK I will stay them open but should I grab them or just move the shaft, and should I separate them from their motor?
@@benmalka4257 the motor is what keeps them open normally. So unhooking from the motor might result in them closing when they shouldn’t.
@@MalarkeyTaylor I’d like to keep them always open is it possible? Im going to remove the intake manifold tomrrow, I want to overtake their motor
Will a 0.25w 4.7k ohm resistor work?
Yes that is what I used.
Hi, thanks for creating and sharing this video.
Does it matter or is one preferred over the other metal or carbon film resistor?
Thanks again👍
what resistor did you put in?
I it was a 4.7k ohm generic one from Amazon.
Thanks
But how much watts?
Is the fail code p2513?
No, for this failure it was 2530-4 (on the auto scanner and 2008 on the generic OBD scanner) I think 2513 may also be a swirl motor related problem, but this is not the code I received on this particular unit.
@@MalarkeyTaylor you think i can do the same with this failure?
@@mercedesbenzi1259 Sorry I'm not sure. Some newer motors have position sensors that could cause the fix to not work for that. I don't know. It's probably best to take to a qualified work shop, or keeping research o find out what the code means for your particular car. I've use AlldataDIY subscription before to help troubleshoot, but some may take some trial and error.
I had 2513 code on my 320 cdi, and the rest of the code is m 55
Cheating the engine failure detection is not a fix. You can also destroy the engine warning LED. Fixes all failures for zero bucks.
Keeping the engine out of limp mode. Because of poorly designed intake manifolds and barely useful “swirl” flaps is hardly cheating anything.
This tip is for people that want to get 250-300k or more miles out of a car that was written off because the repair cost more than its value.
If you are not interested in that sell it and buy a new one that doesn’t need this fix.