Thank you for letting everyone know. There was somebody who made a nasty reply saying that I didn’t know what I was doing. I’m glad that you confirmed all my hard work.
Hi, very interested in purchasing a SBR, my concern is, there hasn't been any word of a Version-3 coming out, I'd hate to drop a $1000 bucks and Losi comes out with a 3.0, been 2 years since the 2.0 came, any buzz behind the scene that you heard of? Thanks in advance.
Thanks for this video. Other than the rear weight issue everyone complains about this was most informative and thank you for making it. I’m curious about your opinion regarding the rear braces everyone talks about installing. I understand the issue and your solution is to remove the weight. Ok. I’ll go with that from a mechanical perspective. However you loose the scale details you’re paying for. My question is why would losi leave that much flex there? I feel like we should trust the engineering they put into it and probably didn’t intend for this to Arrma tough. Im not hearing about any subsequent part failures from adding braces though. Im my experience, when I strengthen something with metal, other things tend to break that shouldn’t. Cheers and I’ll await your opinion on those braces. Thanks!
I have the SlookumRC braces installed and looked at them closely how they strengthen the rear and cannot find any places that now get more stressed to worry about breaking. Looking at the design i think it's either an oversight from Losi or just as intended for those that bash it. The flex and those spare tires hitting the ground after high jumps might just have been designed to take up some of the abuse on landing when bashing. For non bashing use and driving it like a trophy truck they do the exact opposite, they still hit the ground going over bumps at speed and then lift the rear wheels so they loose traction and prevent the suspension from doing what it is supossed to do. So as far as i think on what's going on, if you are going to bash it, dont install them, if you are going to drive it like a trophy truck install them, you want everything as rigid as possible so the suspension can do it's job at absorbing all the impacts and nothing else. I also installed some homemade limit straps front and rear so the suspenion does not bottom out on the shock piston.
Thanks man. I appreciate the reply. I tend to agree with what you said even though I have no experience with this specific machine. I have a Senton BLX for bashing. This is a whole different beast. I noticed on my truck which I just bought 1/12 , has bracing in the corners of the weak spot everyone puts the diy braces. I didn’t notice that addition on other videos. So I may still brace it but I’m not pushing her yet. It’s a fun truck.
I like how you mention that (if set up properly) this truck can handle as well as the UDR. Owning both I can say that out of the box the UDR is a better overall truck. Sometimes just throwing size at something doesn’t make it better. Engineering applies to all things big and small. I’m not as critical and demanding as some and enjoy what these two trucks deliver out of the box. Either choice is a good choice.
That's funny because as an owner of both sbr 1.0 and udr the sbr handles way better and doesn't roll over as easily as the udr. I don't know what they changed on the sbr 2.0 to make it handle worse then the 1.0
I agree, i have the 2.0 and UDR. The UDR flips easier yes, but it's a lot more satisfying to drive and watch the suspension work. The SBR is bigger more tough version. @jalee6587
I'm back into the hobby only recently and got the SBR 2.0 I love it, looked at this vid to get some setup tips. Upgraded it with all Vitavon parts (including 6 aluminium wheels so even more weight on the back), the stainless steel rear chassis brace, Gorilla taped the tires and body and added an extra original King shock without springs in the back. I have not weighed it yet, but the weight increased noticably with all the Vitavon parts, had a first shakedown with all the new parts installed and i have to say, the added weight is actually benefical to the handling for this car running it like a trophy truck and not a basher. Used the Spektrum smart programmer to set the braking to 100% and it needs it with all the added weight. I have Team Corally 55wt in the front shocks and 65 wt in both rear shocks (asked Horizon tech and they said it's 60wt stock) and it absorbs bumps like a champ, much more stable on the straight. Will have to see how going a bit lower in the front will work out in the long run. Unfortunately is has been raining cats and dogs for the whole week and it is not getting better. So it was just a short run for now on the only non muddy and wet packed sand track i could find so it was just a short run, but it already felt a whole lot better compared to stock, much more controllable and no traction rolling. Going to run it like this, only thing i am contemplating is fabricate a different style sway bar, one like on the rear of the Traxxas UDR, mounted on the axle not the trailing arms.
It's kinda funny how he talks about wanting to keep the truck scalable, as in realistic, but he said to remove everything in the rear to make in drive better. Even though it is realistic to have those items in the back. I say its a skill issue at that point.
@@cesars7860 Those are LOSI SUPER BAJA REY rear arms. (The first model, not the 2.0) The SuperBajaRey 2.0 got longer rear arms. So in fact @Marti received the SBR arms instead the SBR2.0 arms, and he’s got the SBR2.0.
Got one couple months ago,ran it box stock 8s,was ok,but with your tips I expect instant improvement, tires are scary on pavement ,thanks.i plan a total rebuild for this truck, a arms,truck arms in back,heavy-duty rear differential, probably an esc
@1980VINZ You tell me since you state what I'm thinking about possibilities. Know that your just itching to let us all know your an engineer as well as a mind reader.
lol have you seen a real trophy truck? lol a lot of great info but there’s only so scale you can get. Buy it make the changes you feel make it better and have fun with it. Udr is a damn good scale but I don’t like traxxas. I’ll run the losi truck every time
You're wrong.... it is a Trophy Truck. Trophy Trucks are in the "open" class of desert racing, they have little restriction so many run 800 to 1000 Hp, most are actually rwd except for a few like Bryce Menzies who races for redbull in an awd 1000 hp "trophy truck".
1st thing you pointed out about the ride height was bad info. With batteries installed you get a nose high ride height. Most people don't understand tire ballooning is actually factured into RC as a way to control pitch on the air. The oil from the factory is the correct weight and by adding thicker your contradicting what your saying, I suggest getting a book on the engineering side of setup or at least do some homework before you make content. The rear biased weight CG is what makes these trucks work in real life and you're so far off of good info here I can't believe I heard you run a Hobby shop. Most desert trucks in real life don't have adjustable camber as a result of the geometry. Lol traction rolling for those that don't follow trophy trucks means your truck is working correctly and is a result of 3 diffs with thick oil. Bad info here.
I see from your channel that you are very into the Baja Rey. The difference btw me and you is setup RC cars all day. I do before and after test runs. I’m not into driving and RC car like a toy. One key lesson I have learned over time is that it’s all about trial and error in RC. The comment about tire ballooning is a little weird since most people want their short truck for driving rather than having air control. A real short course truck does not have tires that balloon and that is a fact. I like my cars to drive like a proper vehicle. And most of my customers have seen huge difference in the Baja Rey handling after my upgrades. Real customers , real opinions , and yes this is a real business. Good luck with your RC endeavors.
@@ParkflyersRC Yah you would benefit from getting some books on real setup. I can tell from your reply and the info your giving here you could benefit from understanding how changes effect a car. Your info contradicts science and engineering. I'm just trying to a conversation about why these trucks are setup correctly and I think your info could benefit from doing some research. I personally would never buy products from a hobby shop with this mindset of you set these up all day doesn't mean anything. Good luck 👍
Just received an email from Horizon Hobby. The factory shock oil is 60wt front and rear.
I’ve been told it’s 30?? That’s strange
@Kane Norris it's 60 front and rear, the 1/10 is 30wt
Done the tuning and changed phenomenally the driving of this truck ❤ thank you 🙏🏽
Thank you for letting everyone know. There was somebody who made a nasty reply saying that I didn’t know what I was doing. I’m glad that you confirmed all my hard work.
how high is your car sitting, is it higher then the car stock?
Also chassis brace from Scorch Parts
Hi, very interested in purchasing a SBR, my concern is, there hasn't been any word of a Version-3 coming out, I'd hate to drop a $1000 bucks and Losi comes out with a 3.0, been 2 years since the 2.0 came, any buzz behind the scene that you heard of? Thanks in advance.
Thanks for this video. Other than the rear weight issue everyone complains about this was most informative and thank you for making it. I’m curious about your opinion regarding the rear braces everyone talks about installing. I understand the issue and your solution is to remove the weight. Ok. I’ll go with that from a mechanical perspective. However you loose the scale details you’re paying for. My question is why would losi leave that much flex there? I feel like we should trust the engineering they put into it and probably didn’t intend for this to Arrma tough. Im not hearing about any subsequent part failures from adding braces though. Im my experience, when I strengthen something with metal, other things tend to break that shouldn’t. Cheers and I’ll await your opinion on those braces. Thanks!
I have the SlookumRC braces installed and looked at them closely how they strengthen the rear and cannot find any places that now get more stressed to worry about breaking.
Looking at the design i think it's either an oversight from Losi or just as intended for those that bash it. The flex and those spare tires hitting the ground after high jumps might just have been designed to take up some of the abuse on landing when bashing. For non bashing use and driving it like a trophy truck they do the exact opposite, they still hit the ground going over bumps at speed and then lift the rear wheels so they loose traction and prevent the suspension from doing what it is supossed to do.
So as far as i think on what's going on, if you are going to bash it, dont install them, if you are going to drive it like a trophy truck install them, you want everything as rigid as possible so the suspension can do it's job at absorbing all the impacts and nothing else. I also installed some homemade limit straps front and rear so the suspenion does not bottom out on the shock piston.
Thanks man. I appreciate the reply. I tend to agree with what you said even though I have no experience with this specific machine. I have a Senton BLX for bashing. This is a whole different beast. I noticed on my truck which I just bought 1/12 , has bracing in the corners of the weak spot everyone puts the diy braces. I didn’t notice that addition on other videos. So I may still brace it but I’m not pushing her yet. It’s a fun truck.
Trust losi engineering not a bunch of shade tree mechanics.
@@billreynolds2221 😉😉Dont trust one liner people on the internet either 😉😉😉😉😉
I like how you mention that (if set up properly) this truck can handle as well as the UDR. Owning both I can say that out of the box the UDR is a better overall truck. Sometimes just throwing size at something doesn’t make it better. Engineering applies to all things big and small. I’m not as critical and demanding as some and enjoy what these two trucks deliver out of the box. Either choice is a good choice.
Na it’s the driver lol
Very nice sir!
That's funny because as an owner of both sbr 1.0 and udr the sbr handles way better and doesn't roll over as easily as the udr. I don't know what they changed on the sbr 2.0 to make it handle worse then the 1.0
I agree, i have the 2.0 and UDR.
The UDR flips easier yes, but it's a lot more satisfying to drive and watch the suspension work. The SBR is bigger more tough version.
@jalee6587
I'm back into the hobby only recently and got the SBR 2.0 I love it, looked at this vid to get some setup tips. Upgraded it with all Vitavon parts (including 6 aluminium wheels so even more weight on the back), the stainless steel rear chassis brace, Gorilla taped the tires and body and added an extra original King shock without springs in the back.
I have not weighed it yet, but the weight increased noticably with all the Vitavon parts, had a first shakedown with all the new parts installed and i have to say, the added weight is actually benefical to the handling for this car running it like a trophy truck and not a basher. Used the Spektrum smart programmer to set the braking to 100% and it needs it with all the added weight.
I have Team Corally 55wt in the front shocks and 65 wt in both rear shocks (asked Horizon tech and they said it's 60wt stock) and it absorbs bumps like a champ, much more stable on the straight. Will have to see how going a bit lower in the front will work out in the long run.
Unfortunately is has been raining cats and dogs for the whole week and it is not getting better. So it was just a short run for now on the only non muddy and wet packed sand track i could find so it was just a short run, but it already felt a whole lot better compared to stock, much more controllable and no traction rolling.
Going to run it like this, only thing i am contemplating is fabricate a different style sway bar, one like on the rear of the Traxxas UDR, mounted on the axle not the trailing arms.
As far as battery life can that be improved
I use the gpm springs but I leave the collar adjusted all the way up. Seems to turn out like the blue oem spring adjusted hallway down.
Ty for input
Nice truck, we haven't jumped yet. Maybe it's only a click away. We have subscribed 😎🇺🇸
I need camber adjustments I put 3xl-e wheels and traxxas sledgehammer tires on mine
looks amazing 😊👌🏾
thank you... almost forgot to remove the stickers... just got it in the mail today... I'm late i know 😅😅
I haven't gotten one, yet. I'm more late. 😅
How are you supposed to adjust the rear camber with a solid rear axle.
I can see that little plastic bar you talking about I think try a coat hanger and rod ends and gorilla glue
Thanks for the tips 👍🏾
Ace video what diffs oils show we use on this truck
Does apply to the v1
It's kinda funny how he talks about wanting to keep the truck scalable, as in realistic, but he said to remove everything in the rear to make in drive better. Even though it is realistic to have those items in the back. I say its a skill issue at that point.
Anyone found the upgraded swaybar links ?
I'm interested in this as well
@@famous_amos I have made my own
Made the car loads better
@@maciejajewski out of turnbuckles or something?
Is the roof level exactly with the chassis?
I put shorter trailling arms on now it runs perfect no more scrubbing or flipping
Who's making those?
@@cesars7860 I ordered the regular ones from hobby town and some shorter ones came in but they’re made by Losi
@@cesars7860 Those are LOSI SUPER BAJA REY rear arms. (The first model, not the 2.0)
The SuperBajaRey 2.0 got longer rear arms.
So in fact @Marti received the SBR arms instead the SBR2.0 arms, and he’s got the SBR2.0.
@1980’VINZ good info, thanks brother. 👍
@@cesars7860 my pleasure mate 🫡
the springs are to weak and short. So i put heavier on it.
Hi how many times would you wrap around the tyres with the gorilla tape
1
Got one couple months ago,ran it box stock 8s,was ok,but with your tips I expect instant improvement, tires are scary on pavement ,thanks.i plan a total rebuild for this truck, a arms,truck arms in back,heavy-duty rear differential, probably an esc
How did you get on with reducing the traction roll?
Be good to adjust the camber on a live axle rear🤔
You think it’s impossible right…
So how do you think we can adjust the toe angle ?
@1980VINZ You tell me since you state what I'm thinking about possibilities. Know that your just itching to let us all know your an engineer as well as a mind reader.
Can it fit a standard size servo like reefs raw 500?
It can fit a standard 5th scale servo you just need an aftermarket servo mount
lol have you seen a real trophy truck? lol a lot of great info but there’s only so scale you can get. Buy it make the changes you feel make it better and have fun with it. Udr is a damn good scale but I don’t like traxxas. I’ll run the losi truck every time
Its not really a trophy truck, technically its a 🏜 desert racing truck.
True, You deserve a trophy 🏆
You're wrong.... it is a Trophy Truck. Trophy Trucks are in the "open" class of desert racing, they have little restriction so many run 800 to 1000 Hp, most are actually rwd except for a few like Bryce Menzies who races for redbull in an awd 1000 hp "trophy truck".
Also you say remove logos for scalability yet you day remove tires and all stuff form rear which these car carry. Lol
1st thing you pointed out about the ride height was bad info. With batteries installed you get a nose high ride height. Most people don't understand tire ballooning is actually factured into RC as a way to control pitch on the air. The oil from the factory is the correct weight and by adding thicker your contradicting what your saying, I suggest getting a book on the engineering side of setup or at least do some homework before you make content. The rear biased weight CG is what makes these trucks work in real life and you're so far off of good info here I can't believe I heard you run a Hobby shop. Most desert trucks in real life don't have adjustable camber as a result of the geometry. Lol traction rolling for those that don't follow trophy trucks means your truck is working correctly and is a result of 3 diffs with thick oil. Bad info here.
I see from your channel that you are very into the Baja Rey. The difference btw me and you is setup RC cars all day. I do before and after test runs. I’m not into driving and RC car like a toy. One key lesson I have learned over time is that it’s all about trial and error in RC. The comment about tire ballooning is a little weird since most people want their short truck for driving rather than having air control. A real short course truck does not have tires that balloon and that is a fact. I like my cars to drive like a proper vehicle. And most of my customers have seen huge difference in the Baja Rey handling after my upgrades. Real customers , real opinions , and yes this is a real business. Good luck with your RC endeavors.
@@ParkflyersRC Yah you would benefit from getting some books on real setup. I can tell from your reply and the info your giving here you could benefit from understanding how changes effect a car. Your info contradicts science and engineering. I'm just trying to a conversation about why these trucks are setup correctly and I think your info could benefit from doing some research. I personally would never buy products from a hobby shop with this mindset of you set these up all day doesn't mean anything. Good luck 👍