Answer to common comments: 1. The 2x4 legs won't settle much here. Our red clay doesn't move much once it's settled, and this is a high point of the yard so it drains well and never gets saturated. 2. All wood was pressure treated, rated for ground contact, so rot is many, many years away. 3. There is a small air gap between the walls and the side of the house. 4. The garage (not temperature controlled) is on the other side of that exterior wall.
All that weight on a few 2x4 points and it's going to settle no matter what kind of soil it's on. $20 of 12x12 concrete pavers would improve your build 100%. I sorry but it seems more and more of your big builds you end up trying to justify your errors after the fact.
Im more curious on the roof "Vents" if the wind/rain/snow is coming the right way it would blow those vents open and allow the elements inside. Is there a plan to possibly correct that? or are you not worried that could happen ?
Hi Bobby, great demonstration. WARNING to viewers, after just 10 years, many of the polycarbonate panels require replacement. I wish there was a longer-lasting material for this purpose. Is there something that can be done to extend the life of that material? Thanks.
Yes there is… you can do the same thing with glass. Just make sure when using glass, that you take into account, the roof vent system… you will want it properly framed and a hinge system installed for the framed glass opening, as well as a proper securing system to ensure the “roof windows” close and seal correctly. I built this exact projuct using glass about 12 years ago and I have yet to experience Any rot, mold, or failure of any panels. I got All of my glass at Either the ReStore, or Habitat for Humanity, for pennies on the dollar in costs… total project cost for my leanto greenhouse, was $350 bucks for wood, glass and caulking…
Cover with large bubble... bubble wrap in the winter or rainy cold weather and put the bubble side facing the greenhouse panels. You can buy greenhouse clear strong tape to join the pieces together and use for cracks.
@@AleaumeAnders yeah especially when using 2x4, 4x4 would have given a better footing. Those 2x4 are gonna sink right in. It would have been easy enough to place small cement pylons under it. There's also no french drain, so the "clay doesn't move much once it's settled" will retain water and speed up rot and topside erosion. The framing was done nicely and the coroplast is a nice touch, though I would have left the film on the roof parts to help decrease excessive heat. Don't get me started on the vents that are going to blow open with the first big gust of wind and drench the inside
Love the concept. Definitely will use pea gravel for floor for drainage. Love the plexiglass panels. Will make mine 6x4. Being a Lowe's Pro allows me to have all materials cut to actual sizes needed. I like using screws instead of nails. Thanks for this video.
Question: it’s been 2 years since this greenhouse was built. Could you do a look back to it; listing how it is today, what would you change to make things better or ... As always, thanks for sharing this video content. Trusting that you and your families enjoyed a great thanksgiving holiday. Cheers...
I honestly would not go with plywood and 2x4’s on the floor. I would build the initial floor frame with 4x4’s and the floor with deck boards (treated or composite). I would highly recommend grading though. Take the top soil out and put down gravel (preferably limestone or bank fill) and pack it in. Thirdly I’d install a drip ledge along the roofline and Z channel where the greenhouse paneling meets the wainscoting. I don’t know anything about the corrugated plastic but make sure the plastic is uv radiation resistant.
@@Zootycoonman223 4x4s?? why?? maybe 2x6s but 4x4 doesnt make any sense for a floor joist - not from an engineering perspective - better yet, maybe just use pavers
@@Zootycoonman223 I would actually just build the floor joists and fill in with gravel. the floor is inviting critters to live under, since it will be very warm.
2 роки тому+1
@@KatBurnsKASHKA Covering the joists in gravel would encourage them to hold moisture and rot... Great idea...
also insects, also you should have used blocks to level the building which would provide bester support for the floor, instead of stakes which makes it a permanent building. Then don't you need a permit,where I live you would.
Two things I would have done differently. I would have framed in the roof vents to prevent a high wind from ripping the vents off. As they are, there's no way to latch them closed. I also would have painted the framing to the color of the house before installing the clear panels to prevent the wood from turning gray with age or at least stained it first.
I Like To Make Stuff you went to all the trouble of trying to level off the floor but you chose to use a tiny footprint of a 2x4 to support ALL of that weight. The weight of the framing, the planters, soil, water, snow, etc. CAN NOT be supported by such a small footprint. The RIGHT way to do this would have been to use 4x4 TREATED posts for the leveling feet, and plant those on top of concrete patio blocks or deck blocks to distribute the weight. That greenhouse is going to sink into the ground when it gets wet because you have far too much weight being spread over far too little surface area. You say to check codes for high wind areas but you clearly didn’t check the codes for this type of construction. Follow the codes for building a deck and you’ll be in good shape. Also, the wall framing is screwed up. You have ALL of the weight of the structure above the floor being supported by the shear strength of the nails you used to attach the vertical wall members. Unless those screws are stainless or hot dip galvanized then they’re going to rust and break. Wall members should NEVER rely on nails for their load bearing strength. You should have built your floor and then nailed the vertical wall structure ON TOP of the floor, like a REAL framing is done. This is a recipe for disaster and is not the way to build a lasting structure. Looks good enough for you to cash your sponsorship check, but that’s all. In a couple years that thing will be falling apart because the moisture from the greenhouse will have rusted away the only thing that’s holding it together: the screws. Massive fail.
g1mpster this is the second vid I've seen by this guy- complete utter incompetence. And you can tell he doesn't give two shits either. Lowe's should be embarrassed...
People, don't do this. Everything in this greenhouse is excellent except the floor. I don't care what sort of wood product you use, this will be a rotten mess with infestations of bugs and disease all through that flooring. Just use gravel on top of the natural ground, it would be cheaper and easier as well.
He also failed to kill the grass beneath the floor, which is likely to result in ‘weedeating’ inside the greenhouse as it comes up that back wall. Also, even if the wood floor performs well, the grooves are running the wrong way for easy sweeping. But the roof vents were the most serious mistake.
Thats what I was thinking also. Always have a good foundation..that's even in the scripture lol. Never put wood on direct ground just a termite disaster waiting to happen .buzzzzzzzz big X :)
@@gregfutrelle1396 "As they say on The East Coast" It's Salt Treat ' WTFIT? There is no such thing as "Salt Treat"? It's preasu treated unless it came from Japan and was submerged underwater!! ".
I built this almost exactly about 10 years ago for my neighbor. Nice little old lady. She uses it everyday of the year. Have had zero trouble out of it. The only thing that has to be replaced was a piece of the siding because (i also mow her lawn) i was cutting her grass and I hit a rock and it shot through the plastic. Everything works just fine if you know what you're doing.
@Brad Kendall it depends on where u live, some soil will make a building settle like crazy, some won’t, and by that point it’s not really soil. Probably a good mix of rock or clay
Should have closed off the back with some kind of vapor barrier... parking that thing up against the siding without one is going to let very warm and humid air infiltrate the siding and cool and condense - especially if the garage is unheated in the winter, and create rot.
@@juancanobarrera Yeah, if he can create a thermal break...even better waterproof the wall and create a thermal break. It's cheap and saves $$$ in having to repair it later when done wrong.
@@stevenbryant4718 If it is a traditional brick structure then the brick is just a façade with weep holes that draw air. The brick on new homes is attached to the sheathing by little metal tabs and isn't even structural. If it is traditional and you slap a greenhouse on it you will get moisture and mold on the backside of the wall. People do it, and people live with mold. I guess it's up for the experts as to how bad it really is to have mold in your living area. I'm not really sure what their consensus is today.
Concerns I have with this are: 1) The vinyl siding will bucket after a few seasons from the heat. 2) Those little 2x4 feed will sink into the ground. 3) the wood will rot (Pressure Treated or Not) on the feet and underneath due to moisture and lack of ventilation 4) It's still going to blow away - even if its tied to the house 5) The HOA will make you take it down 6) You should have sloped the floor and had drain holes as you will get standing water in it. 7) Mold and slime will grow on the siding inside the greenhouse due to heat and humidity and water getting in between the roof and siding. 8) Critters
I recently helped build a 96-ft high tunnel. If you use aluminum tape on the top and paper tape on the bottom of the polycarbonate sheets, it keeps bugs out and allows moisture to drain from the corrugated structure of the sheets
For higher wind areas, use T posts and use bailing wire run through holes drilled through the studs and wire the studs to T the T posts. You could also use diagonal braces anchored to flat foundation stakes
Looks like you use Doug fir wood. If so that will root in the ground very quickly. Also the siding needs to be painted over wise it will also root. Tip paint the wood before you cut it even if it just primer paint it will help to stop the root. Many people has mentioned the wood flooring so I will leave that alone. Remember you will be watering the plants and the water will leak out of the pot!
Looks reasonably good BUT sorry it's not going to last . Also you mentioned that you weren't going to be attaching it to the house ? What about the lag screws your running through the wall ? That qualifies as being attached to the structure . All in all it looks good but you could have taken the time to weatherize the structure using flashing and caulking where needed . Even if the ground is clay ,a 2X4 footprint will dig into the soil in no time at all . At this point I'd at least put a piece of 1/8 sheet of stainless steel under the posts to spread the load out and protect the wood a little more so it doesn't rot so easily . Just a thought .If it were me I would have anchored the structure by putting the posts into concrete thereby avoiding the attachment to the house but to each their own I guess .
just word of advice for anyone new to diy construction: few things will dull your blade faster than running it in dirt. Cut on saw horses or a foam insulation board.
apparently don't do the vents the way they did it or install the wood floor, use vents that use an arm with filled with wax( when wax heats up, flaps open) Use gravel instead of wood floor and don't lean against house without having the green house closed off
Random thought- read a book on green house construction first. Then you might go with real self opening vents, a good mounting approach for the twin wall plastic so that ‘that expensive plastic’ lasts a really long time or maybe just a floor that retains heat (that’s what green houses are all about).
An aside, it's kind of funny that half the comments are complaining that he built a floor at all, and you're complaining that he didn't build a good enough one. I think a lot of the variety of complaints come from the fact the everyone lives in different environments and has different goals in what they would use a green house for.
I would have used a dryer vent discharge with pivoting louvers for the hot air out, and used a fan to force air into the greenhouse and tie it to a digital thernostat
One year I built a shed and checked with my towns building inspector about meetung code. First thing he said was "how big is it?" Turns about if you build a shed or similar under a certain square footage and height, it doesnt matter. Mine wasnt so I had to do it, but it was still interesting to know.
I normally use concrete blocks dug into the ground to level up my base as wood touching the ground rots so fast. Great video 👍 cant wait to get mine finished.
I was thinking the same thing. This construction is going to rot from the base as the exposed wood sucks up humidity and water from the ground. They should have used some concrete blocks as a foundation.
I like the simple straightforward build, but I'd like to see how this behaves in heavy rain, those cut-out flaps with no jint at all and no water barrier where the roof meets the wall. Depending on how one uses a greenhouse a few leaks here and there might no t be an issue but I'd go with some kind of camping car window vent for the top vent, with a silicone joint, and waterproof membrane to stop water from running down the house wall. And a little add-on that's nice for anyone with a greenhouse, a gutter that feeds a water collector, to water the plants, even heat them if you put it inside(black tank heats up in the sun, and reeases heat at night )
It'd be interesting to see a recap of your projects with how they turned out after some time. What would you do the same? What would you do differently? What did you have to fix? How often do you use it? etc.
Two observations 1. There should be some type of z-clip or flashing, or water will get through between the wall of the house and the open wall of the green house. 2. The clear panels that I'm familiar with, have UV ray protection on one side, but not on the other. You would have needed to be sure the UV ray protection was on the outside.
If you installed a small gutter across the edge of the roof and let it run down a barrel next to the door, you would have water readily avaiable to use inside the greenhouse at all times.
Interesting... he mentioned that they didn't want to level the grade. Then they were stuck with making a very expensive wood floor with siding?! Pressure treated or not its gonna rot due to moisture and water spills. He should have graded the ground and put a durable attractive and inexpensive stone floor down
@@bradley3549 he said the floor was made of a composite material so I figured it was just textured that way. Or maybe plywood is a composite material and I didn't know that.
@@nathan-fh8hp It's composite siding laid on top of plywood. Pressure treated plywood at least. Plywood is technically a composite - composite materials are just things made from two or more different substrates (like glue and wood.) Never the less, a plywood floor a greenhouse just sounds gross to me.
I really love your work. However I have to point out the obvious week points. I was actually shocked you chose to build this green house without a foundation of any sort. If you weren’t going that route you should have used gravel to allow for drainage . The rest of the structure being built to code with concrete piers sunk to support the frame. Gravel floor. Tape is not a sufficient hinge for anything.
I've spent 15 years in construction and this wasn't really completed to weatherproofing standards, that trough that was created will build up with water and rot. Guaranteed 5 - 10 years from now that floor will be rotten and the skirt that was placed around the outside. Especially since it is made out of fibre board, that stuff loves to absorb water. I noticed a comment that said to place on gravel for drainage, great idea and better price point. Another thing to consider is using deck blocks or patio stones. Always start with a level surface, don't be lazy. These are just some things to consider if think about using this method. Other than that, it looks really nice!
I like the nailing gun you guys used, and super clean production, but I would not want to put the flooring in- I'd rather have put gravel or just left the ground as it would breath better and not be water damaged. I know my green houses can get super hot- unless there is more venting allowed. (which you did) I would want each end to have a door to allow cross wind so my plants wouldn't get moldy. But it would also make a great natural sauna. I wish I had the team you guys had to create such projects.
Maybe had just dug out holes for the feet to drop down into and then filled with a little concrete mix. Wouldn't be such a pain without that wooden floor, which is gonna be a pain to upkeep in the longterm for many peoples application of a greenhouse.
Yes, we were sweaty, it was a thousand degrees outside and a billion degrees inside that oven. Anthony beat me to the first comment. I will not stand for such atrocities.
Will be interested to hear how it works out for you. My soon to be wife wants a greenhouse as well, so i may be contacting you for lessons learned after your wife uses it a while.
@@JoshMakesStuff Jennifer mentioned that some have roll-up sides for the summer months to allow better air flow. She was skeptical if the vents y'all put on top would be enough for summer time.
Bummer that your covered the floor with wood bc they could've grew nice plants directly in the soil. The way you did it makes you lose a ton of space. It's more of a nursery than a greenhouse. Nice build tho
What if the soil is frosted or frozen? Guess you just don't use it, but the earth is also a huge thermal mass that will suck the heat out of the greenhouse.Isn't a nursery just a specific function of a greenhouse which is used to nurse young plants? And a greenhouse is a structure which uses translucency to allow and hold in the suns heat? So the more effective the heat holding the greener the house; yeah?I mean, no floor might be good depending; to each their own... but is the floor a "bummer"? Not one bit.
If they own the place that's a great idea!!! But if your renting you might run into the problem I have. Land lord does not like in ground plants. Be had to rip up to many gardens, so no unground plants for me. Just a thought 🙂
@@nicholas3354 Having exposed moist soil and the foundation insulated to frost depth would allow the excess daytime heat to be captured within the soil then released during the night. Heat absorbed by the soil is not "lost", but re-radiated to the greenhouse interior during periods without sunshine..
6ml vapour barrier is cheaper and can take a massive snow load on the roof, ive been using the same greenhouse for years and have still had no problem with the “strength” of the vapour barrier. take everything this man says with a grain of salt and do your own research
About 10-15 dollars a sq.ft. for materials...6x12=720 to over a thousand. Depending on location and place of purchase. And if you build it correctly, it will cost even more.
I'm no expert, but I think no floor is viable; yet there are advantages to the floor, both aesthetic and also sheltering the greenhouse from the climate. In winter the ground is very chilling; for instance, there is a winter wilderness survival tactic where one situates an elevated place or else an insulating barrier (such as leaves) between themselves and the ground so that the ground doesn't suck all the heat out of them.
i've never seen people get so angry over a diy video. It's really not that bad like chill. I live in a similar area. this building should be fine the wood is all weather proof and there's adequate ventilation based on the heat and humidity. also due to the shape of the siding it allows the heat and humidity to escape off the back walls.
It made me laugh when i realized you beveled into the door to attach the door hinge because you didn't need to. And the only reason i found out was because i was taking notes lol
Why not put the floor registers at the top under the little bit of over hang would work the same as the roof holes without having that big hole on the roof with a flap.
We have a lean to greenhouse on the front south side of our house. We installed it to be multifunctional. It also acts as a Trombe wall. There are two existing windows behind it on the house side. After installing the greenhouse, I installed two vents through the wall near the floor beneath the windows that allow air to flow between the interior of the house and the greenhouse. The windows (opened at the top) act as the upper vents to allow warm air to enter the house from the greenhouse in winter and exit from the house to the greenhouse in summer. Vents in the roof of the greenhouse are open in summer to create the required chimney effect but are closed in Winter. In Spring and Fall we use screens and leave these windows open. It works great. Outside the front of the greenhouse we also have cold frames. The greenhouse allows us to grow vegetables all year round and to start plants to transplant to our gardens in the Spring.
@@meikusje I appreciate your interest. We plan to put up a UA-cam channel soon. We are in the process of moving. I plan to offer online training in permaculture design and passive and natural building and onsite hands on builds as a follow up. The new location is in a natural area with excellent tourism and outdoor adventure opportunities. I can’t wait to be up and running and teaching again! 😀
Answer to common comments:
1. The 2x4 legs won't settle much here. Our red clay doesn't move much once it's settled, and this is a high point of the yard so it drains well and never gets saturated.
2. All wood was pressure treated, rated for ground contact, so rot is many, many years away.
3. There is a small air gap between the walls and the side of the house.
4. The garage (not temperature controlled) is on the other side of that exterior wall.
why do you use a closed bottom? You can plant plants in the ground. I do it like this and we also have clay soil
Can you do a bits video on nails and nailers?
All that weight on a few 2x4 points and it's going to settle no matter what kind of soil it's on. $20 of 12x12 concrete pavers would improve your build 100%. I sorry but it seems more and more of your big builds you end up trying to justify your errors after the fact.
Im more curious on the roof "Vents" if the wind/rain/snow is coming the right way it would blow those vents open and allow the elements inside. Is there a plan to possibly correct that? or are you not worried that could happen ?
I would still put 12x12 pavers under the legs... settling is settling I don't care what kind of clay you have....
Hi Bobby, great demonstration. WARNING to viewers, after just 10 years, many of the polycarbonate panels require replacement. I wish there was a longer-lasting material for this purpose. Is there something that can be done to extend the life of that material? Thanks.
Yes there is… you can do the same thing with glass. Just make sure when using glass, that you take into account, the roof vent system… you will want it properly framed and a hinge system installed for the framed glass opening, as well as a proper securing system to ensure the “roof windows” close and seal correctly. I built this exact projuct using glass about 12 years ago and I have yet to experience Any rot, mold, or failure of any panels. I got All of my glass at Either the ReStore, or Habitat for Humanity, for pennies on the dollar in costs… total project cost for my leanto greenhouse, was $350 bucks for wood, glass and caulking…
@@preprebelactual amazing ! How did you get the glass fixed to the structure ?
you can use Corrugated Fiberglass Roof Panel, we had them in my parent's house, they were functionally there for 40 years.
Cover with large bubble... bubble wrap in the winter or rainy cold weather and put the bubble side facing the greenhouse panels. You can buy greenhouse clear strong tape to join the pieces together and use for cracks.
Just curious why you chose to have a full wooden floor rather than use pea gravel so water can easily drain away after you've watered the plants.
Not to mention the geothermal value of bare ground
@@timothygreer188 Plus wont the wood on soil rot quickly while it would dry off quickly if placed on gravel?
@@AleaumeAnders yeah especially when using 2x4, 4x4 would have given a better footing. Those 2x4 are gonna sink right in. It would have been easy enough to place small cement pylons under it. There's also no french drain, so the "clay doesn't move much once it's settled" will retain water and speed up rot and topside erosion. The framing was done nicely and the coroplast is a nice touch, though I would have left the film on the roof parts to help decrease excessive heat. Don't get me started on the vents that are going to blow open with the first big gust of wind and drench the inside
Here's a great video from Lowes that shows you how to do that: How to Build a Greenhouse ua-cam.com/video/Bbibe0yuiew/v-deo.html
Great idea❗
To show you the power of flex tape, I sawed this roof in half!
Is this the real FLEX TAPE?
i was just going to comment "FLEX TAPE!" but this is better
THAT'S A LOT OF DAMAGE!
hahahahaha, tha'ts awesome comment and great sale. SOLD!
not. I don't trust flextape, just sayin'
One word exzelerating 😀👍
Love the concept.
Definitely will use pea gravel for floor for drainage. Love the plexiglass panels. Will make mine 6x4. Being a Lowe's Pro allows me to have all materials cut to actual sizes needed.
I like using screws instead of nails.
Thanks for this video.
Question: it’s been 2 years since this greenhouse was built. Could you do a look back to it; listing how it is today, what would you change to make things better or ... As always, thanks for sharing this video content. Trusting that you and your families enjoyed a great thanksgiving holiday. Cheers...
I honestly would not go with plywood and 2x4’s on the floor. I would build the initial floor frame with 4x4’s and the floor with deck boards (treated or composite). I would highly recommend grading though. Take the top soil out and put down gravel (preferably limestone or bank fill) and pack it in. Thirdly I’d install a drip ledge along the roofline and Z channel where the greenhouse paneling meets the wainscoting. I don’t know anything about the corrugated plastic but make sure the plastic is uv radiation resistant.
I can guarantee, since been taken down! As there was so many flaws in this build. It was a neat project, but I guarantee it didn't last.
@@Zootycoonman223 4x4s?? why?? maybe 2x6s but 4x4 doesnt make any sense for a floor joist - not from an engineering perspective - better yet, maybe just use pavers
@@Zootycoonman223 I would actually just build the floor joists and fill in with gravel. the floor is inviting critters to live under, since it will be very warm.
@@KatBurnsKASHKA Covering the joists in gravel would encourage them to hold moisture and rot... Great idea...
Aren't you afraid the bottom will rot because of the moisture?
No, it's all pressure treated lumber.
i'd be more worried of it sinking after it rains for days on end.
@@cmdraftbrn If it's worth doing it's worth doing right. At the least put that structure on concrete posts bases 🤦♂️
also insects, also you should have used blocks to level the building which would provide bester support for the floor, instead of stakes which makes it a permanent building. Then don't you need a permit,where I live you would.
@@cwadub Or at least runners that go the full length of the greenhouse to spread the load out
Two things I would have done differently. I would have framed in the roof vents to prevent a high wind from ripping the vents off. As they are, there's no way to latch them closed. I also would have painted the framing to the color of the house before installing the clear panels to prevent the wood from turning gray with age or at least stained it first.
8:25 The censor bar was there because in reality Bob was swearing like a sailor.
i loved how simple this was. i want to make a mini version for my seedlings. Thank you!
Incredible job! The final result looks so professional, and you made it seem so achievable for beginners. Thanks for sharing!
Nice job but it seems odd to not set the frame onto cement blocks or some sort of foundation ?
You certainly could, but I don't think it's absolutely necessary.
I Like To Make Stuff you went to all the trouble of trying to level off the floor but you chose to use a tiny footprint of a 2x4 to support ALL of that weight. The weight of the framing, the planters, soil, water, snow, etc. CAN NOT be supported by such a small footprint. The RIGHT way to do this would have been to use 4x4 TREATED posts for the leveling feet, and plant those on top of concrete patio blocks or deck blocks to distribute the weight. That greenhouse is going to sink into the ground when it gets wet because you have far too much weight being spread over far too little surface area. You say to check codes for high wind areas but you clearly didn’t check the codes for this type of construction. Follow the codes for building a deck and you’ll be in good shape. Also, the wall framing is screwed up. You have ALL of the weight of the structure above the floor being supported by the shear strength of the nails you used to attach the vertical wall members. Unless those screws are stainless or hot dip galvanized then they’re going to rust and break. Wall members should NEVER rely on nails for their load bearing strength. You should have built your floor and then nailed the vertical wall structure ON TOP of the floor, like a REAL framing is done. This is a recipe for disaster and is not the way to build a lasting structure. Looks good enough for you to cash your sponsorship check, but that’s all. In a couple years that thing will be falling apart because the moisture from the greenhouse will have rusted away the only thing that’s holding it together: the screws. Massive fail.
Yes, it should, otherwise it will take just a decade for the moisture to ruin the whole construction
@@g1mpster This ^
g1mpster this is the second vid I've seen by this guy- complete utter incompetence. And you can tell he doesn't give two shits either. Lowe's should be embarrassed...
All that Lowe's lumber, and not a single warped stud?
They didn't show you the 45 minutes they spent picking the good ones out of the pile.
@@blacksabbath222 All our top grade lumber is bowed, twisted, crowned and warped. Oh ya, also knotted and waned. I detest the filthy garbage!!
Lmao! 😂
I was told many yrs ago the state and municipalities got choice of all the first run stuff .
Treated lumber is normally straighter than just your 2x4
People, don't do this. Everything in this greenhouse is excellent except the floor. I don't care what sort of wood product you use, this will be a rotten mess with infestations of bugs and disease all through that flooring. Just use gravel on top of the natural ground, it would be cheaper and easier as well.
coffeebuzzz i want to do brick floor
He also failed to kill the grass beneath the floor, which is likely to result in ‘weedeating’ inside the greenhouse as it comes up that back wall. Also, even if the wood floor performs well, the grooves are running the wrong way for easy sweeping. But the roof vents were the most serious mistake.
You should be digging and putting in geothermal piping for free heat, cooling and humidity control anyways.
Thats what I was thinking also. Always have a good foundation..that's even in the scripture lol. Never put wood on direct ground just a termite disaster waiting to happen .buzzzzzzzz big X :)
@@gregfutrelle1396 "As they say on The East Coast" It's Salt Treat ' WTFIT?
There is no such thing as "Salt Treat"? It's preasu treated unless it came from Japan and was submerged underwater!! ".
You should leave the white sheeting for the roof so you don't cook the plants in the afternoon. The sides are fine for clear.
Still doing an amazing job!
Making a green house. Very cool, man.
I’d be concerned about giving subterranean termites a direct path from the ground to the siding of the house.
That's the purpose of the PT material
@@bobg.3206 every time you make a cut into PT. you have to retreat the cuts or insects and rot will happen
not to mention the mouse and rats the will move in underwater the floor he installed
ecotourism.
Those feet are going to settle into the ground with all of that weight, should of at least put it on cinder blocks to give it a chance.
Could have bought some tubes and a bag or two of concrete for some footings.
I built this almost exactly about 10 years ago for my neighbor. Nice little old lady. She uses it everyday of the year. Have had zero trouble out of it. The only thing that has to be replaced was a piece of the siding because (i also mow her lawn) i was cutting her grass and I hit a rock and it shot through the plastic. Everything works just fine if you know what you're doing.
@Brad Kendall it depends on where u live, some soil will make a building settle like crazy, some won’t, and by that point it’s not really soil. Probably a good mix of rock or clay
rofl ya I just said same thing to myself as I was watching.
lol, no it won't! Not even maybe.
4:28 - Nice use of lining the nails up with the beat!! 👍
The little things which most don't notice, but which add to the overall quality
It happens all over the video, was just going to comment on it at 3:10. I'm glad I'm not the only one that appreciates that kind of stuff.
😉👌
Should have closed off the back with some kind of vapor barrier... parking that thing up against the siding without one is going to let very warm and humid air infiltrate the siding and cool and condense - especially if the garage is unheated in the winter, and create rot.
I like how the nail gun went with the music. Nice touch!
Don't attach a greenhouse to your conditioned home. The high humidity will cause issues from mold to rot.
What if he had added a layer of the coroplast rather than just use the wall for the home? Would that help?
@@juancanobarrera Yeah, if he can create a thermal break...even better waterproof the wall and create a thermal break. It's cheap and saves $$$ in having to repair it later when done wrong.
brick
@@stevenbryant4718 If it is a traditional brick structure then the brick is just a façade with weep holes that draw air. The brick on new homes is attached to the sheathing by little metal tabs and isn't even structural. If it is traditional and you slap a greenhouse on it you will get moisture and mold on the backside of the wall. People do it, and people live with mold. I guess it's up for the experts as to how bad it really is to have mold in your living area. I'm not really sure what their consensus is today.
its against the unconditioned garage wall.
Concerns I have with this are:
1) The vinyl siding will bucket after a few seasons from the heat.
2) Those little 2x4 feed will sink into the ground.
3) the wood will rot (Pressure Treated or Not) on the feet and underneath due to moisture and lack of ventilation
4) It's still going to blow away - even if its tied to the house
5) The HOA will make you take it down
6) You should have sloped the floor and had drain holes as you will get standing water in it.
7) Mold and slime will grow on the siding inside the greenhouse due to heat and humidity and water getting in between the roof and siding.
8) Critters
Some of your points are unavoidable with any green house
Building code dictates subflooring is allowed to be no thinner than 3/4 inch
@Luwdig Van Mozart not true, but at that point they can become expensive
I recently helped build a 96-ft high tunnel. If you use aluminum tape on the top and paper tape on the bottom of the polycarbonate sheets, it keeps bugs out and allows moisture to drain from the corrugated structure of the sheets
@@sukt00 doesn't matter if there is an HOA or not, because the county has building codes regardless that have to be followed
For higher wind areas, use T posts and use bailing wire run through holes drilled through the studs and wire the studs to T the T posts. You could also use diagonal braces anchored to flat foundation stakes
And mold grows on the outside of your house on the siding. Moisture will get inside that siding of your house!
Nice greenhouse, but just curious why you put the vent at the bottom facing out? I would want to be able to close or open them from the inside.
I wouldn’t put a wood floor in it, I would just remove the sod, level it out and install crushed stone
They built their before lumber prices went sky high
Either no floor, or put it up on a few concrete deck blocks. One or the other...
I’m building one now on a smaller scale (6x8), hopefully it turns out as nice as yours. Thanks for sharing this.
2021 and I’m looking at that wood like it’s gold!!!
It's 2024. And it IS gold.
Looks like you use Doug fir wood. If so that will root in the ground very quickly. Also the siding needs to be painted over wise it will also root. Tip paint the wood before you cut it even if it just primer paint it will help to stop the root. Many people has mentioned the wood flooring so I will leave that alone. Remember you will be watering the plants and the water will leak out of the pot!
Hi- cool- I would suggest roofing vents with vent closers but that added cost.
If you do not add some wide foot pads, the wooden legs will sink uneven.
Looks reasonably good BUT sorry it's not going to last . Also you mentioned that you weren't going to be attaching it to the house ? What about the lag screws your running through the wall ? That qualifies as being attached to the structure .
All in all it looks good but you could have taken the time to weatherize the structure using flashing and caulking where needed . Even if the ground is clay ,a 2X4 footprint will dig into the soil in no time at all . At this point I'd at least put a piece of 1/8 sheet of stainless steel under the posts to spread the load out and protect the wood a little more so it doesn't rot so easily . Just a thought .If it were me I would have anchored the structure by putting the posts into concrete thereby avoiding the attachment to the house but to each their own I guess .
just word of advice for anyone new to diy construction: few things will dull your blade faster than running it in dirt. Cut on saw horses or a foam insulation board.
Thumbs up for the Michael Scott plasma screen TV in your shop.
I was thinking about building a green house this week and now seeing this video .. Imma do it ..
apparently don't do the vents the way they did it or install the wood floor, use vents that use an arm with filled with wax( when wax heats up, flaps open) Use gravel instead of wood floor and don't lean against house without having the green house closed off
Wish you’d make me a green house!!! Or at least a room off the back of my house to safely enjoy my backyard!
is your backyard dangerous?
I was a complete sceptic watching this, glad to see that most of the comments share my concerns.
I love staying to the end for the bloopers.
Why did I just watch a video about a greenhouse? I was looking for help installing a car radio... this channel is awesome either way
Oh oh, I didn't see any filter tape on bottom of polycarbonate panels or foil tape across top! Definitely gonna have problems. Its a must
All that humidity getting into the houses siding will make mold start . Give it some time it will start rotting.
any house clad in vinyl will mold and rot from the inside. wood unable to breathe and too much moisture retention unless its desert
Random thought- read a book on green house construction first. Then you might go with real self opening vents, a good mounting approach for the twin wall plastic so that ‘that expensive plastic’ lasts a really long time or maybe just a floor that retains heat (that’s what green houses are all about).
An aside, it's kind of funny that half the comments are complaining that he built a floor at all, and you're complaining that he didn't build a good enough one.
I think a lot of the variety of complaints come from the fact the everyone lives in different environments and has different goals in what they would use a green house for.
I would love to see you do a butterfly house.
I'd love to see what under the siding of the house looks like after a year or 2..
I would have used a dryer vent discharge with pivoting louvers for the hot air out, and used a fan to force air into the greenhouse and tie it to a digital thernostat
And in today's video, we build a pizza oven.
That's actually an excellent tip to not build this in the summer!
😄
Can you do a Bits video on "Checking with your local code."
One year I built a shed and checked with my towns building inspector about meetung code. First thing he said was "how big is it?" Turns about if you build a shed or similar under a certain square footage and height, it doesnt matter. Mine wasnt so I had to do it, but it was still interesting to know.
@@modelmanjohn that varies state to state
Someone hire Matt Risinger to inspect that "green" house.
Vincent Harry @forby is a genius and does some amazing edits
Congrats I am the 90st like
I normally use concrete blocks dug into the ground to level up my base as wood touching the ground rots so fast. Great video 👍 cant wait to get mine finished.
These guys are incompetent & wasteful
I was thinking the same thing. This construction is going to rot from the base as the exposed wood sucks up humidity and water from the ground. They should have used some concrete blocks as a foundation.
Fun fact: the music sounds soo much better than the air compresser filling up for the nailer 😂 looks amazing thoe 👍 👊 🇬🇧
2:30 that pen just went YEET
The fact that you put it against the wall, would that promote mold under the wall cover?
yes It will be constantly filled with condensation.
I like the simple straightforward build, but I'd like to see how this behaves in heavy rain, those cut-out flaps with no jint at all and no water barrier where the roof meets the wall. Depending on how one uses a greenhouse a few leaks here and there might no t be an issue but I'd go with some kind of camping car window vent for the top vent, with a silicone joint, and waterproof membrane to stop water from running down the house wall. And a little add-on that's nice for anyone with a greenhouse, a gutter that feeds a water collector, to water the plants, even heat them if you put it inside(black tank heats up in the sun, and reeases heat at night )
It'd be interesting to see a recap of your projects with how they turned out after some time. What would you do the same? What would you do differently? What did you have to fix? How often do you use it? etc.
I like this idea for a tool shed… thanks
14:00 yeah because a good wind will snatch all that out. I filed at least 10 windstorm claims today
Two observations
1. There should be some type of z-clip or flashing, or water will get through between the wall of the house and the open wall of the green house.
2. The clear panels that I'm familiar with, have UV ray protection on one side, but not on the other. You would have needed to be sure the UV ray protection was on the outside.
Love the chop saw tent for containing the saw dust!
I’m not a member but yet I can watch it 😬
Me too
Matthew Ward follow me, thank you.
Soeep follow me, thank you 👍🏻
If you installed a small gutter across the edge of the roof and let it run down a barrel next to the door, you would have water readily avaiable to use inside the greenhouse at all times.
Good idea on the vent on the end
Interesting... he mentioned that they didn't want to level the grade. Then they were stuck with making a very expensive wood floor with siding?! Pressure treated or not its gonna rot due to moisture and water spills. He should have graded the ground and put a durable attractive and inexpensive stone floor down
I don't know why you'd want a floor in a greenhouse anyway, right?
@@bradley3549 keep weeds from growing
@@nathan-fh8hp Seems like there are more permeable and rot resistant options than a plywood floor. But that's just me.
@@bradley3549 he said the floor was made of a composite material so I figured it was just textured that way. Or maybe plywood is a composite material and I didn't know that.
@@nathan-fh8hp It's composite siding laid on top of plywood. Pressure treated plywood at least. Plywood is technically a composite - composite materials are just things made from two or more different substrates (like glue and wood.)
Never the less, a plywood floor a greenhouse just sounds gross to me.
I really love your work. However I have to point out the obvious week points. I was actually shocked you chose to build this green house without a foundation of any sort. If you weren’t going that route you should have used gravel to allow for drainage . The rest of the structure being built to code with concrete piers sunk to support the frame. Gravel floor. Tape is not a sufficient hinge for anything.
I've spent 15 years in construction and this wasn't really completed to weatherproofing standards, that trough that was created will build up with water and rot. Guaranteed 5 - 10 years from now that floor will be rotten and the skirt that was placed around the outside. Especially since it is made out of fibre board, that stuff loves to absorb water. I noticed a comment that said to place on gravel for drainage, great idea and better price point. Another thing to consider is using deck blocks or patio stones. Always start with a level surface, don't be lazy. These are just some things to consider if think about using this method. Other than that, it looks really nice!
I wouldn’t want it so close to my house and sharing a wall. I would be concerned about damage to the house wall with the increased heat and humidity.
Just a quess, but, I'm thinking if you get a lot of snow in the winter, that type of greenhouse (corrugated plastic) isn't going to last long.
What a lovely green house?
So, you replace this every year when you replant?
ROFL!!
some people out there:
*SCAM THE HOUSE ISN'T GREEN*
lol imagine this thing in 10 years...
I give it two
Ain't gonna last that long. I'll give until next winter.
That they said ^ 👍
in 1 year
10? lol it won't last 2
I like the nailing gun you guys used, and super clean production, but I would not want to put the flooring in-
I'd rather have put gravel or just left the ground as it would breath better and not be water damaged.
I know my green houses can get super hot- unless there is more venting allowed. (which you did)
I would want each end to have a door to allow cross wind so my plants wouldn't get moldy.
But it would also make a great natural sauna. I wish I had the team you guys had to create such projects.
Maybe had just dug out holes for the feet to drop down into and then filled with a little concrete mix. Wouldn't be such a pain without that wooden floor, which is gonna be a pain to upkeep in the longterm for many peoples application of a greenhouse.
Yes, we were sweaty, it was a thousand degrees outside and a billion degrees inside that oven. Anthony beat me to the first comment. I will not stand for such atrocities.
Will be interested to hear how it works out for you. My soon to be wife wants a greenhouse as well, so i may be contacting you for lessons learned after your wife uses it a while.
The P.I. Workshop two will enter! One will leave!
Maker knifes at dawn?
@@MapBot11 Lesson #1, it is hot as 12 suns in there right now. I'm sure during the cooler temperatures it will really pay off
@@JoshMakesStuff Jennifer mentioned that some have roll-up sides for the summer months to allow better air flow. She was skeptical if the vents y'all put on top would be enough for summer time.
How did you keep the vent flaps secure when they are down?
Bummer that your covered the floor with wood bc they could've grew nice plants directly in the soil. The way you did it makes you lose a ton of space. It's more of a nursery than a greenhouse. Nice build tho
i might have to write that down
What if the soil is frosted or frozen? Guess you just don't use it, but the earth is also a huge thermal mass that will suck the heat out of the greenhouse.Isn't a nursery just a specific function of a greenhouse which is used to nurse young plants? And a greenhouse is a structure which uses translucency to allow and hold in the suns heat? So the more effective the heat holding the greener the house; yeah?I mean, no floor might be good depending; to each their own... but is the floor a "bummer"? Not one bit.
If they own the place that's a great idea!!! But if your renting you might run into the problem I have. Land lord does not like in ground plants. Be had to rip up to many gardens, so no unground plants for me. Just a thought 🙂
@@nicholas3354 Having exposed moist soil and the foundation insulated to frost depth would allow the excess daytime heat to be captured within the soil then released during the night. Heat absorbed by the soil is not "lost", but re-radiated to the greenhouse interior during periods without sunshine..
That is really nice greenhouse.
Nice workshop! I'm jealous!
6ml vapour barrier is cheaper and can take a massive snow load on the roof, ive been using the same greenhouse for years and have still had no problem with the “strength” of the vapour barrier. take everything this man says with a grain of salt and do your own research
You probably have a blue tarp over your chimney too! Lol
6ml won't cover much. maybe 6l
You have to go outside in the bushes to adjust the vents, not well thought out. Also what keeps the wind from blowing up the roof vents?
Surely the greenhouse won't be level when the feet start sinking in to the dirt
yeah, this is a mess
Everybody needs a Josh! Wish I had a Josh! You go man!
Very professional, thank you.
I like this but the winter here would destroy that roof.
It's cool that Lowe's sponsored it, but how much was the cost of this entire project?
Too much for what was built! Figure about ten to fifteen dollars a square foot for materials, depending on location and place of purchase.
About 10-15 dollars a sq.ft. for materials...6x12=720 to over a thousand. Depending on location and place of purchase.
And if you build it correctly, it will cost even more.
Why use a floor at all? I would have just lined up bricks or cement block and built on top of that, leaving the grass or dirt underfoot.
I'm no expert, but I think no floor is viable; yet there are advantages to the floor, both aesthetic and also sheltering the greenhouse from the climate. In winter the ground is very chilling; for instance, there is a winter wilderness survival tactic where one situates an elevated place or else an insulating barrier (such as leaves) between themselves and the ground so that the ground doesn't suck all the heat out of them.
i've never seen people get so angry over a diy video. It's really not that bad like chill. I live in a similar area. this building should be fine the wood is all weather proof and there's adequate ventilation based on the heat and humidity. also due to the shape of the siding it allows the heat and humidity to escape off the back walls.
I know people bash this project but I like it ,, 👍🏻
hears flex tape:
*echoes in the distance* "i sawed this boat in half!"
I’m glad the code inspector didn’t come by. 😂
what are those plastics called and would be a better option that is cheaper than glass.
An inspector will not show up for a lean to shed or green house...No permit required for this type of structure...
Give this man some wood glue and pocket holes and he could build a country
And a Lowe's sponsor
it'll be level until you get one good heavy rain and those 2xs sink right into the dirt! lol
Very professional
him: describes dstance in feets
me: looks at my legs
me: - americans
It made me laugh when i realized you beveled into the door to attach the door hinge because you didn't need to. And the only reason i found out was because i was taking notes lol
Every home should have one in these corona days and raising animals as well for meat..
You can tell you don't live in a rural area because most of us have a lot better set ups than this disaster.
Why not put the floor registers at the top under the little bit of over hang would work the same as the roof holes without having that big hole on the roof with a flap.
It looks like an addition.
We have a lean to greenhouse on the front south side of our house. We installed it to be multifunctional. It also acts as a Trombe wall. There are two existing windows behind it on the house side. After installing the greenhouse, I installed two vents through the wall near the floor beneath the windows that allow air to flow between the interior of the house and the greenhouse. The windows (opened at the top) act as the upper vents to allow warm air to enter the house from the greenhouse in winter and exit from the house to the greenhouse in summer. Vents in the roof of the greenhouse are open in summer to create the required chimney effect but are closed in Winter. In Spring and Fall we use screens and leave these windows open. It works great. Outside the front of the greenhouse we also have cold frames. The greenhouse allows us to grow vegetables all year round and to start plants to transplant to our gardens in the Spring.
Would love to watch a build/design video on something like that!
@@meikusje I appreciate your interest. We plan to put up a UA-cam channel soon. We are in the process of moving. I plan to offer online training in permaculture design and passive and natural building and onsite hands on builds as a follow up. The new location is in a natural area with excellent tourism and outdoor adventure opportunities. I can’t wait to be up and running and teaching again! 😀
I always think: that’s just square frames, that’s not stable at all! Only triangles are stable!
How many nails u wanna use?
Bob : Yes...
Each joint needs 3 nails. Bob shows that in the video but he doesn't call it out.
You're only supposed to leave the film on the sheets until they're installed. And you should predrill the holes in the sheets.