Chevy C10 Bad Misfire Under Load
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- Опубліковано 5 тра 2023
- In this video I diagnosis and fix a bad misfire on my 1975 Chevy C10. The symptom is a bad misfire / no power under load when accelerating. The engine revved just fine in park but not while driving.
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Thorough and accurate troubleshooting. Worth its weight in gold...and gasoline.
Gasoline = gold now a days :)
@@bluesxt Absolutely!
I the same problem and changed everything you did but the ignition coil so I’ll try that next time
Great diagnosis.
Thanks! Took some time as I’m still learning as I’m going but we got there!
I am surprised that it ran! Particularly with carburetor engines, missing like that is usually not a fuel problem, but an ignition problem like this. You mentioned that the fuel line was solid to the engine and you did not want to cut it to measure fuel pressure. If this has the stock mechanical fuel pump, which is on the engine, then the fuel line to the engine won't have any pressure. Where you would attach the pressure gauge is in the rubber fuel hose that I saw that runs from the fuel pump to the carburetor, Also in a mechanical fuel pump system, there is probably not a filter sock in the fuel tank.
Thanks for the comment! Looking back, I think the give away that it was an initial issue was that it revved in neutral just fine.
I was talking about the solid hard fuel line from the mechanical pump to the carb that I didn’t want to cut up :) Not sure if there’s a good way about adding a pressure gauge there without getting rid of the hard line
@@bluesxt You don't put the gauge in the hard metal line, you put it in the rubber line that goes from the fuel pump to the carburetor. You have an inline fuel filter on yours. BTW I love those those trucks!!
@@garylangley4502 sorry I’m not following, there is no rubber fuel hose from the pump to the carb, only the hard line and then the inline filter on the carb
@@garylangley4502 I see :) Thanks!
I'm having the same issues with my set up. I can't figure it out🤷♂️
I hope this is my problem.
Did u find out what was it
Yup. Watch till the end and I find the distributor cap is the cause of the issue. So I replaced the cap, rotor, and ICM to give it a tune up
The condenser looked old and crusty. It should have been changed with the ignition module. A weak or bad condenser can burn up your new module.
I didn’t even realize that was a part that could/should be replaced on the distributor. I think I’ll order one up. Thanks!
@@bluesxt
Hmmm, I guess I must be a bit more dated than you, back in my high school days, we were always changing the points and condenser along with the plugs, cap, and rotor. When you run top line wires, they’ll usually outlast a couple sets of plugs unless you have headers and the wires get up against a tube or two.
Edit: HEI distributors were still very new then and the first modules weren’t so good. If you come out one day and your engine won’t start, after verifying you have 12V at the battery lug on the HEI cap, take the rotor out and bend that center stainless steel tab up, then hold it up where it’s between you and a light, if you can see light through a pinhole in that tab, that will be your no spark problem. I worked on one of mine for almost a whole day before I found that. New rotor in and it fired right up. You can’t see the hole just looking at it, it’s so small you have to hold it up to a light to find it.
Bro mine doesnt rev fine
From the moment it starts i get an intermittent misfire and it gets worse the warmer the car gets. It does it the most under load or at idle. Sometimes it clears up at speed
@@jovo21 assuming your plugs are routed correctly and they are all sparking, and your fuel pressure is correct, then next thing I’d check is your compression. You may have a cylinder low on compression