Great work, hopefully it's all sorted. Run on is caused by a number of things. In your case check your carby idle stop screw to insure your butterfly is adjusted correctly. Run on is also caused by incorrect timing and or carbon build up. Perhaps run a colder plug and check if it gets better.
I did pick up a colder set of plugs to try. We’ll see how that goes! Also our premium gas here is 91 octane! The run on seems to be less prevalent with the Qjet installed but it’s still there!
Although possible, everything works fine with the edlebrock. It may be not sealed properly to the intake! We tightened it down pretty good, but had made some modifications to the adapter plate! You’ll see in the next viddy!
@@OldeCarrGuy hi, the only way to solve problem, is to install solenoids to open and close idle orifices. So, no fuel , no runouts. That proven. Thanks
Run-on can commonly be caused by not enough initial (idle) ignition advance... especially when upgrading a cam. This is common when running a smog-curved distributor in and engine where all emissions spark controls have been removed and/or your distributor is connected to ported/timed vacuum.
My truck is a pre smog truck/carb. Now that I have the Qjet back on it, the run-on is less violent but still there. I have some colder plugs I’m going to try as well.
@@OldeCarrGuy Friend me on Facebook and I will help you out with that. It's likely not spark-plugs but rather the ignition timing. I can tell you how to test. Message me so I know who you are! JV
They make a solenoid, just for that. You can get by without it, you have. The AC idol step up solenoid works flawlessly. You can turn your curb idol down to where you want it, and no more run on when you shudder down. Octain boost or higher test fuel will solve the run on, if you choose to stick with the higher idol solition.
@@RealWorldGarage hi I know you’re comment is 3 years old but I’m having the same issue I put a new alternator in because last guy has regular one with no ac I put the one for ac and still same thing I wanna replace the battery but looking for a different solution
OEMs solved this problem with a solenoid to kick up the idle when the A/C is on. Your truck should have had this solenoid if it came from the factory with A/C.
@@OldeCarrGuy I believe there should be a wire coming from the compressor harness that powers the fast idle solenoid at the carb. Maybe it got deleted by a previous owner at some point.
Ac system does pull down the motor rpms 300 is alot of pull down though wonder if the belt pully is loose it kinda looks like its slitley wobbling a little bit not sure if you noticed that when you pointed at it while it was on ac jason
there was a solenoid on the later ones, but im by far no a/c guy, but i believe there was some timing control to prevent that, could be the clutch its self, with the lsa on that cam it loses some vacuum at idle so maybe a vacuum canister. last one i had was the 82 with a/c idle didnt change but it had a new a/c system and a big block so that compressor didnt mean anything to it lol
@@OldeCarrGuy i have had good luck with idleing on cams like that with the qjet but the last one didnt have a/c lol kinda funny you up in Canada have a/c and me way down south in the heat and humidity have no a/c lol
Running into the same issue after swapping out a Summit carb to a Holley 650 (4150 style). I thought my idle was low but adjusting the idle didn't help the main issue of drastic rpm drop. I just want to run my ac and not have to touch it at stop lights.
I’d check the operation of the idle solenoid in the Quadra jet and the Edelbrock to see if the idle automatically adjusts for the extra load of the ac compressor.
My truck is a factory a/c truck and it didn’t have said solenoid! When I bought it it was all original and no signs of a solenoid ever being on the truck. The problem is worse with the Qjet installed.
Olde Carr Guy I’ve seen these solenoid kits from summit racing, a little pricey but it should resolve things. www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-8059?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwu8r4BRCzARIsAA21i_CfUHqG6hDzYjLOYFiw6gt8WLYPlD9FspbUzrsXYOI91MVfKSZaavwaAllYEALw_wcB
So what if this happens when you're NOT using the A/C at all? Same things happened to me but only this winter after it's hit the lowest temps in a long time and I left it longer than usual. Bad fuel sitting? Drives fine over 5-10mph. Just wants to idle rough and die when put into gear from Park, or idling very low or turning the car at low speeds.
@@OldeCarrGuy idle in park seems very high already. I can't even reach the idle screw to adjust whichever idle screw you're supposed to adjust while in gear because of all the vacuum or smog lines running around the front there.
@@OldeCarrGuy do you think a bad fuel filter or TPS would cause this? No CEL's now but before I would get 1 commonly for the TPS because of hard starts and always need to pump it alot as fuel bowl seems to empty after 2+ days of not using it.
@@OldeCarrGuy when the rpm gauge bounces slitley up and down its called Surging when you showed the gauge when you turned the ac on thats idle rpm surging
I had a 77 trans am that use to do the same thing and the solution was an electric solenoid that raises the throttle when the ac comes on !! ua-cam.com/video/C2gX-fegdXw/v-deo.html here is an example ! Hope this helps !
I seem to remember, some carburetors having an electrically controlled dashpot, to change the idle stop whenever the AC clutch is engaged. Tony B
Thanks Tony! I’ve ordered a throttle or idle solenoid! That should cure it!
Great work, hopefully it's all sorted. Run on is caused by a number of things. In your case check your carby idle stop screw to insure your butterfly is adjusted correctly. Run on is also caused by incorrect timing and or carbon build up. Perhaps run a colder plug and check if it gets better.
And what kind of fuel is he running?? As in how high of octane??
I did pick up a colder set of plugs to try. We’ll see how that goes! Also our premium gas here is 91 octane! The run on seems to be less prevalent with the Qjet installed but it’s still there!
@@OldeCarrGuy I'm also wondering if you have a possible intake leak contributing to the issue.
Although possible, everything works fine with the edlebrock. It may be not sealed properly to the intake! We tightened it down pretty good, but had made some modifications to the adapter plate! You’ll see in the next viddy!
@@OldeCarrGuy hi, the only way to solve problem, is to install solenoids to open and close idle orifices. So, no fuel , no runouts. That proven.
Thanks
Excellent deduction Mr. Watson.
Thanks Sherlock! lol
Run-on can commonly be caused by not enough initial (idle) ignition advance... especially when upgrading a cam. This is common when running a smog-curved distributor in and engine where all emissions spark controls have been removed and/or your distributor is connected to ported/timed vacuum.
My truck is a pre smog truck/carb. Now that I have the Qjet back on it, the run-on is less violent but still there. I have some colder plugs I’m going to try as well.
@@OldeCarrGuy Friend me on Facebook and I will help you out with that. It's likely not spark-plugs but rather the ignition timing. I can tell you how to test. Message me so I know who you are! JV
love a properly tuned Qjet they sound so good
And this ones getting there!
They make a solenoid, just for that. You can get by without it, you have. The AC idol step up solenoid works flawlessly. You can turn your curb idol down to where you want it, and no more run on when you shudder down. Octain boost or higher test fuel will solve the run on, if you choose to stick with the higher idol solition.
I ended up installing a solenoid.
@@OldeCarrGuy I've been fighting it. I'm going to have to do the same😂
I will have to show you my solution to this problem. I may try to post it to Instagram tomorrow.
Looking forward to it!
@@RealWorldGarage hi I know you’re comment is 3 years old but I’m having the same issue I put a new alternator in because last guy has regular one with no ac I put the one for ac and still same thing I wanna replace the battery but looking for a different solution
OEMs solved this problem with a solenoid to kick up the idle when the A/C is on. Your truck should have had this solenoid if it came from the factory with A/C.
My truck is a factory a/c truck and no solenoid, but I’m sure they are out there! May be the cure!
@@OldeCarrGuy I believe there should be a wire coming from the compressor harness that powers the fast idle solenoid at the carb. Maybe it got deleted by a previous owner at some point.
Ac system does pull down the motor rpms 300 is alot of pull down though wonder if the belt pully is loose it kinda looks like its slitley wobbling a little bit not sure if you noticed that when you pointed at it while it was on ac jason
Nah, more apt to be a vacuum leak or result of a lumpy cam with low vacuum!
Good video Jason
Thanks bud
there was a solenoid on the later ones, but im by far no a/c guy, but i believe there was some timing control to prevent that, could be the clutch its self, with the lsa on that cam it loses some vacuum at idle so maybe a vacuum canister. last one i had was the 82 with a/c idle didnt change but it had a new a/c system and a big block so that compressor didnt mean anything to it lol
Mine never had a solenoid, but I have one coming! It’s worse with the Qjet!
@@OldeCarrGuy i have had good luck with idleing on cams like that with the qjet but the last one didnt have a/c lol kinda funny you up in Canada have a/c and me way down south in the heat and humidity have no a/c lol
What is that knock sound as soon as he turned his truck off because that noise is there nearly every time I accelerate. 350 5.7
It's engine run-on. At the time the timing needed to be adjusted. Good eye!
Running into the same issue after swapping out a Summit carb to a Holley 650 (4150 style). I thought my idle was low but adjusting the idle didn't help the main issue of drastic rpm drop. I just want to run my ac and not have to touch it at stop lights.
Ultimately I ended up installing an idle solenoid. It get power from the a/c and bumps the idle when the compressor kicks in.
@@OldeCarrGuy I'm going to look into that!
@@OldeCarrGuyhow did you do that?
I’d check the operation of the idle solenoid in the Quadra jet and the Edelbrock to see if the idle automatically adjusts for the extra load of the ac compressor.
My truck is a factory a/c truck and it didn’t have said solenoid! When I bought it it was all original and no signs of a solenoid ever being on the truck. The problem is worse with the Qjet installed.
Olde Carr Guy I’ve seen these solenoid kits from summit racing, a little pricey but it should resolve things. www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-8059?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwu8r4BRCzARIsAA21i_CfUHqG6hDzYjLOYFiw6gt8WLYPlD9FspbUzrsXYOI91MVfKSZaavwaAllYEALw_wcB
So what if this happens when you're NOT using the A/C at all? Same things happened to me but only this winter after it's hit the lowest temps in a long time and I left it longer than usual. Bad fuel sitting? Drives fine over 5-10mph. Just wants to idle rough and die when put into gear from Park, or idling very low or turning the car at low speeds.
You may need to adjust the idle up in colder temps and adjust your choke!
@@OldeCarrGuy idle in park seems very high already. I can't even reach the idle screw to adjust whichever idle screw you're supposed to adjust while in gear because of all the vacuum or smog lines running around the front there.
@@OldeCarrGuy do you think a bad fuel filter or TPS would cause this? No CEL's now but before I would get 1 commonly for the TPS because of hard starts and always need to pump it alot as fuel bowl seems to empty after 2+ days of not using it.
@@DominiAeternum possible vacuum leaks. May need to have someone look at it.
I can't find any older videos relating to a 1980 chevy k10 where it runs but won't stay idling
Fuel pump or idle mixture screws possible.
To stop runout the carb orifices need to be modified, let me know if need drawing.
Thanks
I’d definitely be interested! DM me on Instagram.
Helpful and nice video but having to turn off the AC to stop it idling bad isn't fixing the problem.
Yes, you are right, I did do a follow up video where I added an idle solenoid.
I would be interested in the e3 plugs what heat ranges they have
I picked up some #6 NGK. We’ll see how they do!
Did you ever fix the run off?
Not yet. Still working on the fine tuning of the Fitech EFI. I think I've narrowed it down to timing though.
did you run Dale on premium gaz?
Always! 91
@@OldeCarrGuy no 94 in NB?
Not in my town!
I think it was the description of it running after it's off that thru me off to the odd idle and who needs ac in Canada it's only 3 days of summer lol
Really Dave? Your just as North as I am!
@@OldeCarrGuy and I enjoy all 3 days
If the AC compressor is drawing too much amperage it might need replacement.
I don’t think it’s an amperage issue. More than likely a mechanical one! The clutch and or compressor could be piling up!
You had a Rpm Surging issue
No surging!
@@OldeCarrGuy when the rpm gauge bounces slitley up and down its called Surging when you showed the gauge when you turned the ac on thats idle rpm surging
Wow I'm the first one here
Congrats!
Face it, Bro. It wasn't a little bit of you. It was a lotta bit of you. Enough said...enjoy the shame.
I’m sorry that you life is so bad that you’re resorting to taking it out on others in a UA-cam comment! I hope you find joy my friend!
@@OldeCarrGuy I was joking.
@@OldeCarrGuy I do apologize. You had no way of knowing it. I should have said it differently or not said anythng.
I had a 77 trans am that use to do the same thing and the solution was an electric solenoid that raises the throttle when the ac comes on !!
ua-cam.com/video/C2gX-fegdXw/v-deo.html here is an example ! Hope this helps !
Yeah! I ordered one the other day!