On most setups you just go from the coil wire to ground. HEI is a little more difficult and is easiest with a second set of hands holding a wire from ground to the center post inside the cap.
The coil will fire, with your new balancer mark at 30 degrees, and the coil wire attached to coil and distributor end unhooked and place near something metal on the motor will jump the gap when the distributor body is twisted to a position where the ignition points close.
You plug the number one cylinder spark plug wire directly to the coil on one end and to a grounded spark plug on the fender, outside of the engine. Hold the rotor hard in its direction of rotation with the distributor body past firing in that direction. Then rotate the distributor body in the opposite direction of the rotor rotation until it fires a spark. To set it up, first the engine has to be on the compression stroke of number one cylinder and the distributor timing has to already be close. What I do is finger in the number spark plug hole and rotate the crankshaft until there is pressure (compression). Then set the balancer timing at 10 or 12 degrees before top dead center. With the distributor cap in place and ignition on, rotate the distributor in the opposite direction of rotor rotation, (or just back and forth for a rough position) until there is spark at number one wire on an open spark plug. After that rough setting, turn off ignition, pull the cap, plug spark plug wire directly into the coil, the rotate balancer to full ignition advance mark before top dead center (must be measured and added), then with ignition on, hold rotor hard in direction of rotation, rotate distributor body in same direction first, then in the opposite direction until there is spark.
@@rudyjhughes you are feeding a spark plug from the wire that would normally go to the centre of the cap and triggering the coil off the points in the base of the distributor.
You're one of the most knowledgeable car guys that I've ever seen I remember 33 years ago you were the first one to tell people where to set timing on a 5 liter Mustang
Haha, my pop said when he was in high school in the 60s, he would bump the timing up on his 55 chevy, then go lay a patch, the longest patch is where the timing was left lol.
@living in a desert it depends on the engine, but it typically sounds like one of a couple things: It'll sound like a a knocking of sorts, that happens at random in different places/different cylinders. You'll know it different from engine knock from a rod or etc, because those stay knocking at only 1 cylinder/area of the engine. It can also sound like "pinging", kinda like if something tapped a hollow portion of your engine head and it had a short ring to it, but at various cylinders and etc. Kinda like Ping-Ping-PingPing-Ping--Ping. (Hopefully that kinda explains it a little better)
All good and you made it clear that "Performance" engines can get away with just mechanical advance. They are not meant to get gas mileage necessarily ... Mild street engines that haul the family around need the vacuum too. Good tip on fattening the low speed circuit to get away from lean burn and stratified charge issues at high vacuum cruise :)
something you might want to mention about static timing an engine is it works with points but not on capacitive discharge ignitions and I believe on multiple spark ignition systems. It helps when you have everything in place battery, coil, ballast resister plugs etc. along with a distributor with a cap and rotor. really enjoy your videos keep them coming stay safe.
If your real good in a first timing you can set to timing mark and turn the distributor til you hear the spark. Much love tony. Keep me interested in my projects. I’m grateful for that. Without enjoyment life ..... Ain’t good
From one Tony to a other, thank you for putting up these videos and sharing your knowledge and experiences. Please keep doing it. And by the way, your right, there are very few individuals out there (speaking automotive) that have channels dedicated to this discipline. Thanks!
@thunderhead289 My friend, think of the haters as a gift....a sign of your success. Nobody pays attention to people who don't make an impact. You're doing great
You're right about every engine is different, the efficiency of the combustion chamber makes a big difference. Back in the day chambers were not as efficient as todays engines thus needed way more total advance ie low 40s for max power.
Tony, you probably get sick & tired of me repeating the following, but it's true: Both you and "My Vintage Iron" ( channel ) are hands down the best 2 teachers on youtube.......barr none. Plus, both of you guys work more with the classic, older stuff. I meet young mechanics all too often who don't even know how to work on drum brakes, lol.........and forget about carbs. If it ain't EFI, they're totally lost.
having a lean miss with my holley at part throttle, never thought to look at my vacuum advance on my dizzy. Thanks! I'll look at that first then the fuel aspect again.
I use the static method to set initial timing and to break in the camshaft and engine. I use a timing light to set total mechanical timing at high RPM. Most stock distributor springs won't allow the full total timing of the weights at any RPM, but after market, high performance quick advance springs do, as they reach total timing at a much lower RPM, often making the factory vacuum advance unusable at part throttle and left sealed off.
I never use timing marks or a light to adjust ignition timing. I’ll have an assistant put car in gear, load the engine and then I’ll advance the ignition timing as far as I can go until the engine starts spark knocking, then back it off until it stops. Been doing it this way for years with great results.
I have both a old sbc and a new ford coyote I race. Funny thing is despite all the fancy computer controls on the coyote, for power, I still time it the same 27 degree from 3500rpm and up (it spends all day 4500 to 7500). You old school guys might be interested to know I can still use a timing light with a lead extension on the coil on plug ignition coils.
Don't know if you still have that but that fucking Ford Coyote is something! Not many engines even have a life at 5500 rpm for long but that damn thing wakes up at 4000 by 5500 is getting some what we say in Oklahoma "getting on one" and is like a screaming mad man crystal meth monster at 7800 RPM as you hang the fuck on and that bitch is like.... MORE MOTHER FUCKER! PEDAL ON THE RIGHT! PUSSY! I was never really a big Ford fan until I was pinned to the seat from one of those and once we got down the road got off the highway and went back to where we started and picked up my asshole and soul that got left behind when we launched into what I can only describe as the tunnel vision of destiny! I was fucking SOLD! I can't afford one right now even at age 46 but I had enough to get a 94 mustang with only a 3.8 V6 with a T5 manual 5 speed and it's not much but I got it delivered on a trailer not running in 3 years and is now my daily driver! Many can beat me and that's okay but they bought theirs and I built mine! But when I grow up! One day ... I want a fucking coyote fire breathing mad man meth monster! Lol For now I play that role in my 6 banger! LMFAO!
One thing I would add is to check the stock damper to make sure your "0" Mark is where it's supposed to be. I have found a few Ford and Gm dampers that the Mark was off by noticeable amount. Also when building an engine from random parts this needs to be checked because over the years the factory marks were located in different spots. So a timing cover or pointer from a '67 could be in a different spot then in '71. And this can make setting timing a nightmare unless you check this carefully when building the engine. Or when trying to figure out why an engine runs poorly when timed by the marks .
🔔😎 Didja ever notice all the big name hot shots doing that first crank and then trying to turn the distributor to get their creation to run?? Ya, meee too. Drives me crazy. Good job UT.👍👍 Simple and effective explanation. 😎😎😎🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
looking forward to the curving the distributer vid.. my mopar distributer is adjustable it seems, slots and screws to adjust how far it will advance i think.. rather then having to weld the slots like most others i see
You can also use a protractor to measure off the degrees more effectively by lacing the center of the protractor on the center of the crank/bolt area. This can zero you down to within 1 degree or on the money every time.
I use ported vacuum from the carburetor for vacuum advance....to me that makes sense. As it accelerates it advances further.....haven't had an issue yet.
By law, if you are a gear head, you must own an "Easy Rider" motorcycle helmet. I am glad to see that you are in compliance. Tickets cost money!!! Question; Timed vacuum or live vacuum to the advance, that is the question? UTG! DK, ASE master retired.
I understand the importance of full advance timing coming in as soon as possible during a drag race. However, is it possible that HP is being left on the table at the lower RPMs during the engine acceleration phase? Now that inexpensive Progressive Ignition Distributors are now available, wouldn't programing the advance curve to match engine speed increase available HP?
So I'm having trouble understanding the total as far as distributor so I set initial timing at 10 degrees and then when I rev engine to say 2500 and find the total I turn the distributor again to 34 degrees if that would be my total
Why won't my timing mark move when I try to adjust it? It's a 98 5.7l Vortec and when I try and adjust the distributor it doesn't move the mark at all. It has 23degrees of time and it's not steady either it's bouncing from 23 to 26 and back.
Tony how should one set it up for a truck that’s gonna be cruising and sometimes moderate to heavy hauling? Not trying to make a race car but a daily drivable old pickup.
How do you know what degree above top dead center to set your motor at? I have a factory 67, 289. No modifications. Is there a website to visit to give this information?
Uncle Tony.... Back in when i was a teen i used to run the advance up till it i get the motor to rattle then back it off a few degrees to get max timming. Can you make a video on a safer way to get the most usable timming without going to the dyno?
As a young man with a 327 in my 67 Camaro I would advance the timing until the car spark knocked under load and then I would back it off just a hair. DONE lol
@@timbermansam Yes and as an example; earlier this year I had a small Ford on my dyno. The owner had been running 34 degrees timing. Bumping up to 36 hurt power. Dropping down to 32 helped. Going to 30 hurt. There was never any pinging.
Thanks again Uncle T. There was one question you could not answer that maybe you could go into depth. Most of us have no access to a DYNO. We know ABOUT where total should be and if you take initial plus what the distributor is going to add all in, then you have a total timing number to check. My case. Ford 347 stroker, mild cam, pertronix III dist. So I have 15 initial plus 21 it gives and verified its 36 all in. The question remains, is that too high? Would it be better at 34 or 35 ? There seems to be no way to know unless 1) You have a dyno 2) you have access to a track with 1/4 mile times...LOL. So if you were doing this in my situation, what would you do to drive it and say "Ahhh..34 is better or no, 36 is better "? BTW , no ping at 36 but I do know any higher and I could blow a gasket or burn a piston...Help me get to the next step :-)
Hi Tony, You are a great source of information... You talk about driveability, what exactly do you mean by that? because I can't tell any difference other than a smoother idle when running manifold, I have a manual transmission, is that where you would maybe see a difference, is between manual and automatic transmissions? I'm sure there are many others wondering the same thing. Do another Distributor episode....
I’m finding conflicting info on setting total timing. Some say total is set by rotating distributor and others say total is set by changing springs inside the distributor and not rotating. Which one is true?
The springs just adjust how quickly it the total timing comes in. Lighter springs make the total timing come in at a lower RPM. Typically you want all the timing in by 3000-3500 RPM for drag racing, and a little higher RPM for a mild street engine.
My old timing light works better than my expensive new timing light. New one is off by about 10 degrees, old one is more accurate. Who would have thought that...
You'd be more accurate if you did it by diameter. If you Have an 8" outside diameter dampner, then the outside diameter is 3.1416x8=25.1328. If you take that and divide by 360 (or even 10) that will give you the distance per degree. That equals .0698" per degree. Then you can mark out every 5 or 10 degrees. Or you can just buy timing tape...
Mr. Tony thanks for your videos really now days that kind of knowledge is pricey..so if I set .my distributor at say 34 degrees for total will it still start normally and idle like it would at initial timing? Thanks again Troy
I have a SBC 350/Powerglide combo in my hot rod without driver 2340lbs, just got a new edlebrock AVS2 carb when I floor it hesitates for a brief moment then takes off. I clocked my 0-60 in at 5.9 seconds, car runs good but I think it’s either timing or carb adjustment..
So doing this do you start off with the timing marks at zero? Or at the 8-10° and then adjust so that 30 ° or so is at zero TDC? Afraid I'm going to advance it too much.
So… I have set my timing to 0degrees tdc on my 74’ 450SL Mercedes. The decal says 5 degrees above tdc at idle and 750rpms. With vacuum connected. So I have it set to 5degrees when it’s running by rotating the distributor. Do I turn the engine to 5 degrees before tdc before I set the timing with the distributor? I always thought all engines have to be at 0 before setting the timing with their distributor?
Have you made a video of rebuilding thermoquads? Reason I ask is cause I’m brand new to them and I just got one for my new to me 69 Roadrunner (also my first mopar) And is dual points better than regular points? Also thank you for the timing video and thank you for showin how mopars are something to get into if you hadn’t I never would’ve looked into gettin one
If I on my chevy 5. 7 Vortec upgrade a timing gear and chain and I advance the timing 4 +on the crank sprocket when I install my dampner will I be seting up the timing the same way.
Tony.... I have a question for you. I have a 2001 Dodge ram 2500 4 x 4 truck with a manual NV 4500 transmission.... it has a 5.9 360...... I just purchased a 1977 big block for 40 out of a motorhome. It had a automatic transmission. I’m going to put the big block in my truck. How hard is this to do? Somebody told me that the back of the crankshaft doesn’t have a big enough hole for the pilot bearing?
Do a brake stand timing have some one put it in gear brake stand it afew rpm advance it till it pings then back it off a bit. That's how red knecks do it
Have 305 motor turns on the first time I need to adjust then it just don’t turn on. The time is set don’t turn on giving up don’t know Overhaul motor new Edelbrock starts when it’s cold
Tony, so I put a draw through turbo on my sbc 350 and retarded the timing a little bit to get my low end torque back but it had slow spool until around 2k rpm, was wondering if I lock out the mechanical advance and plug the vacuum what would be the idle timing be. Should I start at 15 btdc or 20? Much help would be greatly appreciated thanks
Who can help me understand GM LS timing. Why is WOT advance around 32 but low throttle cruising is like 44? For clarification: I have a 94 LT1 350 with LS computer and coils.
At low throttle cruising you need more advance for best combustion. This is either done by the computer (in your case) or the vacuum advance canister on the distributor.
Wish I could play with American v8s but they so expensive here it's not something you can just go out and get here in South Africa a engine in bits costs more than cars I've bought 😂so we play around with straight 6 4.1 chevys and 4liter barra(can give a big v8 a shock most of the time) and of course the 4 pots
Yeah but you got newer rabbit pickups. They are cheap and can be amazing if modified. A Tdi swap in a rabbit pickup is faster than a stock old muscle car. And gets over 4x the miles per gallon. Oh, and the engines last for 100,000s of miles.
@4:15 Uncle Tony said: _"'Why don't you use timing tape?'" Because timing tape doesn't stay on forever."_ The trick to prevent timing tape from flying off is a) make sure you have an extremely clean surface on the damper before you stick it on, and b) once on, take a can of Krylon CLEAR spray paint (or other brand), and spray over the timing tape. *Once again: The key to prevent timing tape from loosening up and flying off is a **_very_** clean surface; that means NO grease, NO oil and NO rust on the harmonic balancer (aka damper) before you apply the timing tape then a shot of Krylon clear paint over it to seal the tape to the damper.*
It is best to paint your entire engine bay with clear coat. Eliminates corrosion. Helps hold things in place. Makes wiring last forever. And oh man is it a joy to work on pater. Rinse it off and she’s clean.
Use the timing tape then take a hacksaw and cut your marks into it using the tape and a guide. Any performance engine should not have a factory damper anyway.
@@philipmazzuca2269 You make a really good point here. Some of the old 60's and 70's dampers were pretty good for not spinning and being factory accurate. The later shit was literally made with not much better than spray foam. The balancer could be out by 4 to 8 degrees new. I remember back in the early 90's setting total timing on a 403 Olds motor and I'd lock down the distributor, rev the engine up a couple of times and the timing had changed. I thought the distributor was somehow turning. Took me a bit to figure out the outer ring of the damper was spinning on the rubber. So, I agree buying a good damper is cheap insurance in my opinion.
I have a 1980 Plymouth volare with a 360. It was running and driving and then i parked it and 30 minutes later it will not start. I have replaced the Ignition module. Coil. Distributor pickup. I dont know what else to try. I need some help.
@billyfromtheusa i have been told that i could of bought a bad new coil. Im not getting spark from the coil to the distributor. I have 12 volts from the battery to one of the ballast prongs and 6 to the other one and then when im cracking im getting almost 12 volts to the coil.
HOLD ON REAL TIGHT TO THE ROTOR WITH YOUR LEFT HAND. ROCK THE DISTRIBUTOR BACK & FORTH WITH YOUR RIGHT HAND... THE PUT THE COIL WIRE IN YOUR MOUTH AND WHEN YOU FEEL A LITTLE JOLT OF ELECTRICITY ON YOUR TONGUE. BINGO! THAT'S YOUR TIMING MARK, REMEMBER TO TIGHTEN THE DISTRIBUTOR BOLT AND YOU'RE DONE.
How do you get a spark with the cap off?
On most setups you just go from the coil wire to ground. HEI is a little more difficult and is easiest with a second set of hands holding a wire from ground to the center post inside the cap.
The coil will fire, with your new balancer mark at 30 degrees, and the coil wire attached to coil and distributor end unhooked and place near something metal on the motor will jump the gap when the distributor body is twisted to a position where the ignition points close.
Ya I’m still confused with this, if you want it go come up on #1 plug but cap is off???? Confused
You plug the number one cylinder spark plug wire directly to the coil on one end and to a grounded spark plug on the fender, outside of the engine. Hold the rotor hard in its direction of rotation with the distributor body past firing in that direction. Then rotate the distributor body in the opposite direction of the rotor rotation until it fires a spark. To set it up, first the engine has to be on the compression stroke of number one cylinder and the distributor timing has to already be close. What I do is finger in the number spark plug hole and rotate the crankshaft until there is pressure (compression). Then set the balancer timing at 10 or 12 degrees before top dead center. With the distributor cap in place and ignition on, rotate the distributor in the opposite direction of rotor rotation, (or just back and forth for a rough position) until there is spark at number one wire on an open spark plug. After that rough setting, turn off ignition, pull the cap, plug spark plug wire directly into the coil, the rotate balancer to full ignition advance mark before top dead center (must be measured and added), then with ignition on, hold rotor hard in direction of rotation, rotate distributor body in same direction first, then in the opposite direction until there is spark.
@@rudyjhughes you are feeding a spark plug from the wire that would normally go to the centre of the cap and triggering the coil off the points in the base of the distributor.
You're one of the most knowledgeable car guys that I've ever seen I remember 33 years ago you were the first one to tell people where to set timing on a 5 liter Mustang
Yes he is.
Sounds about right.
Im still stuck on those Fox fuelies. Lol.
@@hotrodray6802 you're not the only one
Haha, my pop said when he was in high school in the 60s, he would bump the timing up on his 55 chevy, then go lay a patch, the longest patch is where the timing was left lol.
😆😆😆😆😆 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
How I set timing: rev that bitch up until it's at the absolute highest rpm I can get it WITHOUT pinging/detonation.
@living in a desert it depends on the engine, but it typically sounds like one of a couple things:
It'll sound like a a knocking of sorts, that happens at random in different places/different cylinders. You'll know it different from engine knock from a rod or etc, because those stay knocking at only 1 cylinder/area of the engine.
It can also sound like "pinging", kinda like if something tapped a hollow portion of your engine head and it had a short ring to it, but at various cylinders and etc. Kinda like Ping-Ping-PingPing-Ping--Ping.
(Hopefully that kinda explains it a little better)
What a shitty way to do it
Yes yes that's the way. This stuff kills me. It really does!
Finally someone who actually speaks English on this timing subject, cheers uncle tony!
He doesn't speak English, he speaks american
All good and you made it clear that "Performance" engines can get away with just mechanical advance. They are not meant to get gas mileage necessarily ...
Mild street engines that haul the family around need the vacuum too. Good tip on fattening the low speed circuit to get away from lean burn and stratified charge issues at high vacuum cruise :)
something you might want to mention about static timing an engine is it works with points but not on capacitive discharge ignitions and I believe on multiple spark ignition systems. It helps when you have everything in place battery, coil, ballast resister plugs etc. along with a distributor with a cap and rotor. really enjoy your videos keep them coming stay safe.
If your real good in a first timing you can set to timing mark and turn the distributor til you hear the spark.
Much love tony.
Keep me interested in my projects.
I’m grateful for that.
Without enjoyment life .....
Ain’t good
From one Tony to a other, thank you for putting up these videos and sharing your knowledge and experiences. Please keep doing it. And by the way, your right, there are very few individuals out there (speaking automotive) that have channels dedicated to this discipline. Thanks!
Thunderhead289 vs uncle tonys garage on carbureted engine tech!!
We may be the only guys out there really hitting it hard.
Uncle Tony's Garage everyone’s hates us lately for this that or the other thing
@@ThunderHead289 not me, i love the info you share.
College verses high school my money on uncle tony he can send them iowa kids back to school
@thunderhead289
My friend, think of the haters as a gift....a sign of your success. Nobody pays attention to people who don't make an impact. You're doing great
I miss those days , nice refresher thanks for your time
Man Tony you sir are a lost art you just can’t find engine tuners like your self any more
You're right about every engine is different, the efficiency of the combustion chamber makes a big difference. Back in the day chambers were not as efficient as todays engines thus needed way more total advance ie low 40s for max power.
👍 60s SBF needed 42-45.
Some 429s needed 48.
Tony, you probably get sick & tired of me repeating the following, but it's true: Both you and "My Vintage Iron" ( channel ) are hands down the best 2 teachers on youtube.......barr none. Plus, both of you guys work more with the classic, older stuff. I meet young mechanics all too often who don't even know how to work on drum brakes, lol.........and forget about carbs. If it ain't EFI, they're totally lost.
Exactly what I needed to set total advance on my 009 VW. Thank You!
having a lean miss with my holley at part throttle, never thought to look at my vacuum advance on my dizzy. Thanks! I'll look at that first then the fuel aspect again.
I use the static method to set initial timing and to break in the camshaft and engine. I use a timing light to set total mechanical timing at high RPM. Most stock distributor springs won't allow the full total timing of the weights at any RPM, but after market, high performance quick advance springs do, as they reach total timing at a much lower RPM, often making the factory vacuum advance unusable at part throttle and left sealed off.
thast why you need an adjustable advance to limit it
I never use timing marks or a light to adjust ignition timing. I’ll have an assistant put car in gear, load the engine and then I’ll advance the ignition timing as far as I can go until the engine starts spark knocking, then back it off until it stops.
Been doing it this way for years with great results.
Thank's for using the actual damper and cover with those marks... I learn best by seeing and not by hearing a lot of talk.
Great channel. Got a hold of an 85 mustang this spring. The first thing to go was the electronic ignition.
I have both a old sbc and a new ford coyote I race. Funny thing is despite all the fancy computer controls on the coyote, for power, I still time it the same 27 degree from 3500rpm and up (it spends all day 4500 to 7500). You old school guys might be interested to know I can still use a timing light with a lead extension on the coil on plug ignition coils.
Don't know if you still have that but that fucking Ford Coyote is something!
Not many engines even have a life at 5500 rpm for long but that damn thing wakes up at 4000 by 5500 is getting some what we say in Oklahoma "getting on one" and is like a screaming mad man crystal meth monster at 7800 RPM as you hang the fuck on and that bitch is like.... MORE MOTHER FUCKER! PEDAL ON THE RIGHT! PUSSY!
I was never really a big Ford fan until I was pinned to the seat from one of those and once we got down the road got off the highway and went back to where we started and picked up my asshole and soul that got left behind when we launched into what I can only describe as the tunnel vision of destiny! I was fucking SOLD!
I can't afford one right now even at age 46 but I had enough to get a 94 mustang with only a 3.8 V6 with a T5 manual 5 speed and it's not much but I got it delivered on a trailer not running in 3 years and is now my daily driver!
Many can beat me and that's okay but they bought theirs and I built mine!
But when I grow up! One day ...
I want a fucking coyote fire breathing mad man meth monster!
Lol
For now I play that role in my 6 banger!
LMFAO!
One thing I would add is to check the stock damper to make sure your "0" Mark is where it's supposed to be. I have found a few Ford and Gm dampers that the Mark was off by noticeable amount. Also when building an engine from random parts this needs to be checked because over the years the factory marks were located in different spots. So a timing cover or pointer from a '67 could be in a different spot then in '71. And this can make setting timing a nightmare unless you check this carefully when building the engine. Or when trying to figure out why an engine runs poorly when timed by the marks .
🔔😎
Didja ever notice all the big name hot shots doing that first crank and then trying to turn the distributor to get their creation to run??
Ya, meee too. Drives me crazy.
Good job UT.👍👍
Simple and effective explanation. 😎😎😎🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
This here is the timing video I have been waiting for thanks again tony
love to see a video on converting a mopar to electronic ignition too
looking forward to the curving the distributer vid.. my mopar distributer is adjustable it seems, slots and screws to adjust how far it will advance i think.. rather then having to weld the slots like most others i see
You can also use a protractor to measure off the degrees more effectively by lacing the center of the protractor on the center of the crank/bolt area. This can zero you down to within 1 degree or on the money every time.
Lots of great engines out there.
Most of them poorly tuned.
This is very important stuff
Can't beat the "turn it up till it pings and back it off a tad."
Can it be done in the driveway with hood open and listening while revving engine, or does it need to be driven under load?
@@WesternReloader Under load on the road.
Yes that works, but just to let you know, pinging starts before we can even hear it
@@WesternReloader It's best if you take the hood off and have someone drive the car as you ride on the fender adjusting the timing.
@@thereluctantgearhead4544 I’d do it but my wife doesn’t drive mechanical clutch linkage stick
I use ported vacuum from the carburetor for vacuum advance....to me that makes sense.
As it accelerates it advances further.....haven't had an issue yet.
Yeah, chief I'm thinkin you'll need a whole video on that thing about holding the rotor and turning the body.
Dang sure could use your help when I swap my 302 to carb from efi
I care how many degrees we advance with Jesus Amen! Praise Uncle Antknee for for giving Lamchop a kiss for love is the healing power.
Tony, what fuel do you tune it to? 87?
By law, if you are a gear head, you must own an "Easy Rider" motorcycle helmet. I am glad to see that you are in compliance. Tickets cost money!!!
Question; Timed vacuum or live vacuum to the advance, that is the question? UTG!
DK, ASE master retired.
I understand the importance of full advance timing coming in as soon as possible during a drag race. However, is it possible that HP is being left on the table at the lower RPMs during the engine acceleration phase? Now that inexpensive Progressive Ignition Distributors are now available, wouldn't programing the advance curve to match engine speed increase available HP?
Thanks Tony. This is a great video.
So I'm having trouble understanding the total as far as distributor so I set initial timing at 10 degrees and then when I rev engine to say 2500 and find the total I turn the distributor again to 34 degrees if that would be my total
Why won't my timing mark move when I try to adjust it? It's a 98 5.7l Vortec and when I try and adjust the distributor it doesn't move the mark at all. It has 23degrees of time and it's not steady either it's bouncing from 23 to 26 and back.
Uncle Tony. Need better understanding how to static time & start , big block Mopar. Can you do a clip on that , or do you already have one.
Tony how should one set it up for a truck that’s gonna be cruising and sometimes moderate to heavy hauling? Not trying to make a race car but a daily drivable old pickup.
If timing is advanced too far can it run rich and burn gas out the exhaust?
On my chevelle i just kept adjusting around my block untill it stopped stumbling at all, and idled good.
So, this happy 32, 36 total timing is without vacuum advance, or with?
3:22. Enough watched. Thumbs up!!!
How do you know what degree above top dead center to set your motor at? I have a factory 67, 289. No modifications. Is there a website to visit to give this information?
Uncle Tony.... Back in when i was a teen i used to run the advance up till it i get the motor to rattle then back it off a few degrees to get max timming. Can you make a video on a safer way to get the most usable timming without going to the dyno?
Great content brother
need more people like you around me
As a young man with a 327 in my 67 Camaro I would advance the timing until the car spark knocked under load and then I would back it off just a hair. DONE lol
I still do it like that!
No you're not done and I can assure you that the timing was not where it would give the best performance.
Same
@@timbermansam Yes and as an example; earlier this year I had a small Ford on my dyno. The owner had been running 34 degrees timing. Bumping up to 36 hurt power. Dropping down to 32 helped. Going to 30 hurt. There was never any pinging.
DAVE
Some of those early SBF with a cam upgrade needed 42 for best WOT acceleration.... And 36 for pulling 100+ mph in high gear loading.
Thanks again Uncle T. There was one question you could not answer that maybe you could go into depth. Most of us have no access to a DYNO. We know ABOUT where total should be and if you take initial plus what the distributor is going to add all in, then you have a total timing number to check. My case. Ford 347 stroker, mild cam, pertronix III dist. So I have 15 initial plus 21 it gives and verified its 36 all in. The question remains, is that too high? Would it be better at 34 or 35 ? There seems to be no way to know unless 1) You have a dyno 2) you have access to a track with 1/4 mile times...LOL. So if you were doing this in my situation, what would you do to drive it and say "Ahhh..34 is better or no, 36 is better "? BTW , no ping at 36 but I do know any higher and I could blow a gasket or burn a piston...Help me get to the next step :-)
Hi Tony, You are a great source of information...
You talk about driveability, what exactly do you mean by that? because I can't tell any difference other than a smoother idle when running manifold, I have a manual transmission, is that where you would maybe see a difference, is between manual and automatic transmissions? I'm sure there are many others wondering the same thing. Do another Distributor episode....
What about timing a big block for "offroad" use where high RPMs arent always used, and low end torque is needed????????????????
I’m putting a new dist in a 318 but not sure how to install or time ?
Thank you, that was a very good video bud!
I’m finding conflicting info on setting total timing. Some say total is set by rotating distributor and others say total is set by changing springs inside the distributor and not rotating. Which one is true?
The springs just adjust how quickly it the total timing comes in. Lighter springs make the total timing come in at a lower RPM. Typically you want all the timing in by 3000-3500 RPM for drag racing, and a little higher RPM for a mild street engine.
I have no issues with my timing light with dial adjustment. I'm sure they have improved since 30 years ago.
My old timing light works better than my expensive new timing light. New one is off by about 10 degrees, old one is more accurate. Who would have thought that...
I just put a carb and intake in my SBC it runs but is choppy at initial take off runs great after that what should I try
Cant wait for the video about curving distributors.
You'd be more accurate if you did it by diameter. If you Have an 8" outside diameter dampner, then the outside diameter is 3.1416x8=25.1328. If you take that and divide by 360 (or even 10) that will give you the distance per degree. That equals .0698" per degree. Then you can mark out every 5 or 10 degrees. Or you can just buy timing tape...
Mr. Tony thanks for your videos really now days that kind of knowledge is pricey..so if I set .my distributor at say 34 degrees for total will it still start normally and idle like it would at initial timing? Thanks again Troy
So can you set your total timing with your vacuum advance on manifold vacuum. That way it doesn't advance even farther under load.
yeah but when you hit the throttle the vacuum goes away you want to use ported vacuum
Thanks for the hex key mention!
I weld the timing tape.
Tig works best.
I have a SBC 350/Powerglide combo in my hot rod without driver 2340lbs, just got a new edlebrock AVS2 carb when I floor it hesitates for a brief moment then takes off. I clocked my 0-60 in at 5.9 seconds, car runs good but I think it’s either timing or carb adjustment..
So doing this do you start off with the timing marks at zero? Or at the 8-10° and then adjust so that 30 ° or so is at zero TDC? Afraid I'm going to advance it too much.
I have a sotck 360 5.9 lt 1986 dodge carburated engine, what timing would you recommend ?
So… I have set my timing to 0degrees tdc on my 74’ 450SL Mercedes. The decal says 5 degrees above tdc at idle and 750rpms. With vacuum connected. So I have it set to 5degrees when it’s running by rotating the distributor.
Do I turn the engine to 5 degrees before tdc before I set the timing with the distributor? I always thought all engines have to be at 0 before setting the timing with their distributor?
Have you made a video of rebuilding thermoquads?
Reason I ask is cause I’m brand new to them and I just got one for my new to me 69 Roadrunner (also my first mopar)
And is dual points better than regular points?
Also thank you for the timing video and thank you for showin how mopars are something to get into if you hadn’t I never would’ve looked into gettin one
Hey UTG, do you have a vid on Distributor advance curves and how to choose or modify this to the engine?
If I on my chevy 5. 7 Vortec upgrade a timing gear and chain and I advance the timing 4 +on the crank sprocket when I install my dampner will I be seting up the timing the same way.
Tony.... I have a question for you. I have a 2001 Dodge ram 2500 4 x 4 truck with a manual NV 4500 transmission.... it has a 5.9 360...... I just purchased a 1977 big block for 40 out of a motorhome. It had a automatic transmission. I’m going to put the big block in my truck. How hard is this to do? Somebody told me that the back of the crankshaft doesn’t have a big enough hole for the pilot bearing?
Hey uncle Tony could you please show are tell me how to where to put timing marks on a LA 318 cam cog crank cog
How can you get a spark if you have the cap off?
Do a brake stand timing have some one put it in gear brake stand it afew rpm advance it till it pings then back it off a bit. That's how red knecks do it
do you have any vids on how to install/tune a brand new holley 850?
Good info for people!
You rockan good stuff
This is a vid i was waiting for but what about degreeing a cam
Have 305 motor turns on the first time I need to adjust then it just don’t turn on. The time is set don’t turn on giving up don’t know Overhaul motor new Edelbrock starts when it’s cold
That distributor cap looks huge to me.
How do I advance timing on a stock 1998 4.0 Jeep?
Tony, so I put a draw through turbo on my sbc 350 and retarded the timing a little bit to get my low end torque back but it had slow spool until around 2k rpm, was wondering if I lock out the mechanical advance and plug the vacuum what would be the idle timing be. Should I start at 15 btdc or 20?
Much help would be greatly appreciated thanks
Boom in to the way back machine.
Well done, thanks.
Good video!!
Spot on
Some of those dial advance timeing lights have a dial that goes below zero! 😱
Really SCARY thing it was made in amurica! 😡
Lotta info thanks .
Hey uncle tony . I have a 91 crown Vic with a 5.0 w/ EFI . does anything in your fox body apply to the same engine as mine ?
Close.
Ive got Fox and TC.
If I want 32 degrees of total timing how soon do I want it in. 1966 chevy 337 cid.
probably like 2500 3000 at the most
@@KingJT80, thanks.
@@Promoney22 but give your engine the initial it likes, and not what the manual says if its not stock
every engine is different
Who can help me understand GM LS timing. Why is WOT advance around 32 but low throttle cruising is like 44? For clarification: I have a 94 LT1 350 with LS computer and coils.
At low throttle cruising you need more advance for best combustion. This is either done by the computer (in your case) or the vacuum advance canister on the distributor.
Cheers for the video :-)
Uncle tony quit using timing lights 40 years ago
Lights have their place.
Guestimations dont.
Wish I could play with American v8s but they so expensive here it's not something you can just go out and get here in South Africa a engine in bits costs more than cars I've bought 😂so we play around with straight 6 4.1 chevys and 4liter barra(can give a big v8 a shock most of the time) and of course the 4 pots
Yeah but you got newer rabbit pickups.
They are cheap and can be amazing if modified.
A Tdi swap in a rabbit pickup is faster than a stock old muscle car.
And gets over 4x the miles per gallon.
Oh, and the engines last for 100,000s of miles.
I wish you could come help me with my 66 dart! Lol
Every degree you add of base timing is 10 extra horsepower
So I don't need to buy a digital timing light after all cool..
1:24 pinkies up uncle tone.
Stays up
@4:15 Uncle Tony said: _"'Why don't you use timing tape?'" Because timing tape doesn't stay on forever."_
The trick to prevent timing tape from flying off is a) make sure you have an extremely clean surface on the damper before you stick it on, and b) once on, take a can of Krylon CLEAR spray paint (or other brand), and spray over the timing tape. *Once again: The key to prevent timing tape from loosening up and flying off is a **_very_** clean surface; that means NO grease, NO oil and NO rust on the harmonic balancer (aka damper) before you apply the timing tape then a shot of Krylon clear paint over it to seal the tape to the damper.*
It is best to paint your entire engine bay with clear coat.
Eliminates corrosion.
Helps hold things in place.
Makes wiring last forever.
And oh man is it a joy to work on pater.
Rinse it off and she’s clean.
Red Green always used Duct Tape😉
Use the timing tape then take a hacksaw and cut your marks into it using the tape and a guide. Any performance engine should not have a factory damper anyway.
@@philipmazzuca2269
You make a really good point here.
Some of the old 60's and 70's dampers were pretty good for not spinning and being factory accurate.
The later shit was literally made with not much better than spray foam. The balancer could be out by 4 to 8 degrees new. I remember back in the early 90's setting total timing on a 403 Olds motor and I'd lock down the distributor, rev the engine up a couple of times and the timing had changed. I thought the distributor was somehow turning. Took me a bit to figure out the outer ring of the damper was spinning on the rubber.
So, I agree buying a good damper is cheap insurance in my opinion.
Hammy- Agreed
I have a 1980 Plymouth volare with a 360. It was running and driving and then i parked it and 30 minutes later it will not start. I have replaced the
Ignition module.
Coil.
Distributor pickup.
I dont know what else to try. I need some help.
Yes it does. Im am getting fuel just no spark
@@wyattwoodard9801 try the ballast resistor
@billyfromtheusa i have been told that i could of bought a bad new coil. Im not getting spark from the coil to the distributor. I have 12 volts from the battery to one of the ballast prongs and 6 to the other one and then when im cracking im getting almost 12 volts to the coil.
Ballist resistor on the firewall.
Yes i have replaced the ballist.
HOLD ON REAL TIGHT TO THE ROTOR WITH YOUR LEFT HAND. ROCK THE DISTRIBUTOR BACK & FORTH WITH YOUR RIGHT HAND... THE PUT THE COIL WIRE IN YOUR MOUTH AND WHEN YOU FEEL A LITTLE JOLT OF ELECTRICITY ON YOUR TONGUE. BINGO! THAT'S YOUR TIMING MARK, REMEMBER TO TIGHTEN THE DISTRIBUTOR BOLT AND YOU'RE DONE.