Your videos are the best I've found after years of researching such things on UA-cam. You don't leave anything out, have good camera work, and don't waist my time. Thank you.
Just a thought, when you do your cleanout outside, the wye furthest from the structure should be backwards to cleanout towards the building and the wye closest to the building should clean in the direction of the septic. This way you can clean the entire section. The way the wyes are laid out in the video you can't clean the section between the two wyes. Just FYI.
I can't tell you how much I appreciate a guy being willing to show so many of us how these things are done. People can knit pick things all they want, but you guys really put out some of the best "how to" videos on youtube and are my go to as I try to do my own project. Questions on water lines; A or B pex and what diameter? Reading that 1/2" pex B might not have enough flow with the reduced dia inside fittings. Pex A requires a spendy expansion tool, so I'm debating on 3/4" pex B or 1/2" pex a with buying an expansion tool
I have pex b in my personal house and I’m happy with it but you are right it is a slightly smaller inside diameter. I personally don’t notice any difference. Your water pressure will have some to do with that as well so that is something to figure out. Not sure whether you will have a well or be tied into rural water. Pex a expansion tools are more expensive but easy to use
Or to avoid the confusion and added cost of the tool use cpvc it's been tried and true for a lot of years w out fail cut and glue even under slab its straight easy to work with and can even be run to look decent in lieu of spaghetti pipe all over the place its just been my go to for many years w out any issues. . Ever not once
Your video editor is doing top notch work... All the extra little notes/text boxes inserted into the video are informative and super helpful in our understanding of what you are accomplishing from upload to upload. Thank you for making this extra effort. Great work, as always. I still find myself wishing that we got to see the entire project from start to finish... Usually, your part of the project ends long before we get to see the final product. Anyway, thanks for sharing all of this with us.
I love the way you organized that with your team, very smooth. I’ve been plumbing for 11 years now and these guys make things harder than it needs to be sometimes. Nice work 👍
I really like that ICF foundation that you did best. That thing was supper cool! I'm designing a 40x40 shop with a 24x40 apartment all under one roof right now. I might make it 8 ft. deeper but I'm not 100% sure right now. The 64 wide by 40 deep building will be on an ICF foundation. The shop portion will have hydronic heated concrete floors and the apartment side of the building will have a 4 ft. crawl space underneath the ground level floor. I'll also be using 6 inch SIP's for the walls and 8 inch SIP's for the roof. Another thing I like a lot is vaulted ceilings so instead of using the 2x4 roof trusses, I'll be using a ridge beam with only a few custom made heavy roof trusses that I'll make out of wood and custom power coated CNC plate metal brackets that I will bolt through the beams. Then I'll install a beveled edge T&G wood ceiling to the under side of the SIP's. This way I'll be able to have a nice looking vaulted ceiling that can handle a car lift without hitting the bottom of the roof trusses. My design will have I think 3 roof trusses in the garage and it will be a two garage door garage. I might be the first one to do this type of design and would love to see something like it on UA-cam but haven't so far.
Two comments- instead of 2 combinations for cleanout,use sanitary tee , one pipe stubbed up and can clean both ways. Island drains- use a studer vent, put it higher than drain. Studer vent has diaphragm inside that allows air in and no air out so no smell. If studer ever fails,screw off and put another. Studer are code in many states.
Hey there Paul, very interesting information on how you complete your plumbing work. Very nice work as always by you and the team! Looking forward to my build this spring!
Are there any constraints to encasing all entire pex runs in pvc? This way lines would be protected under slab and if a line ever failed you could re-pipe with pulling within pvc?
You will probably get some remarks from plumbers. I've learned over the years that many things will work. Even if it ain't code. And, codes change from state, county, city, etc.
The clean out in front of the house the combos have to face each other, so there's not that little two foot area of the pipe that can't be reached, that's an inspection failure, just to make a note for the other people watching , a great job on all the stuff, but you want to face those two four inch combos facing towards each other if that makes me sense, so that you use the one that's furthest away from the house to clean back into the house and you use the one that's closer to the house to clean back into the septic tank, I hope that makes sense if you have any questions feel free to ask? Thank you for your video. If you don't have a double combo for the main clean out in front of the house and flip those two combos in the other direction towards each other then that will work.
Looks like you larks headed that string line for tension, I am accustomed to larks head knot for the first nail, then for the tension I use a fiddlestring knot (just a loop and twist it for 5-6 times) on the second nail, gives you the ability to adjust the tension and then it's just a tug for the loose end to remove the knot and free the line. I am always trying to learn so I just wondered why not a fiddlestring knot when you put the tension end on the nail for the string line at the beginning of the video?
a vent isn't always downstream from a trap. think of a wet vent situation where an upstream lavatory vent serves as a vent for a downstream tub and/or toilet.
SO am I able to use something like this when I am building a barndominium. Do I do it this way and then put concrete. I was told to add 2x6 around where the tub and toilets will be at so I have some wiggle room when it comes to install.
At 10:18. Isn't the sweep and lateral line closess to the camera lower than the main? Maybe it is just an optical illusion and the pipe sweeps away from the main.
Do you use recirculating pumps when you do that "home run hot water lines"? I have always found the homerun thing sucks without a pump. It takes forever to get hot water at a sink.
It would be. A great idea to at least run the extra line at that time if you use it great if not it's there for future use and I always throttle the moving water down it only needs to be moving enough to stay hot not taxing the heater to kick on constantly insulation on both the hot and recirc line is imperative but yes on a long run it does take some time for the hot to get there especially w today's water saver 2.5 gal per minute shower heads etc ..
What is the finished livable square footage? I’m doing a clear span steel 40/60 with post tension slab in central Texas. What is done differently in my scenario? Would love to see pictures or video of this finished home.. Are they posted?
When u say doing the same thing on the bathroom measurement at the beginning of the video is that's taking the same 12 inch off twice on all measurements through the whole break off measurements for drains
I did a slab on grade and my plumber didn't run any extra pvc pipes under the slab for vents. I questioned this before we poured and they said they will do all wet vents in the wall? Is this right?
Wet vents work fine as long as a few things are followed length size and amount of fixtures or fixture units only so many are allowed a standard bathroom toilet sink and shower for example the toilet is wet vented the other two fixtures are on the wet vent w in five ft of the toilet a wye is put in to pick up the other two on a two inch wet vent the shower is next staying w in a certain distance as to not block the air in the top of the pipe due to pitch 8 ft on 2 inch pipe is the number then the sink now its a wet vent all the way to the sanitary tee that picks up the sink above that it's a standard vent master baths can be a bit more complicated due to more fixtures and further distance between them but this is the standard way of doing it over the last 20 yrs at least
Do you ever use a student vent on your lines that are not vented like your island I'm in the south west and they are allowed here you should replace them once a year curious
I was just curious if you have ever though about building a passive post frame house? I am planning to try to build one in the next few years and would love your thoughts.
I was wondering why you don’t use Studer vents/ admittance valve would be less pipe and fittings to run like on the island sink pipes but I am from Michigan so I know other city’s have different codes and ways of doing things just wondering if you know about them great videos man
When I looked at the labor I was shocked .. then at the end he clarified.. no way a plumber would charge 2500.00 labor 🤣.. still done very well and well thought out .
How long does that sort of piping last? It seems nice to build but I would be concerned that the life of the building is pretty much the life of the pipe in the ground since it seems pretty much impossible to replace without tearing most of the building apart... Or can you manage it just taking out all the floors and concrete sawing patches around where the pipes are?
Thanks for the video. Helpful. I am going to run Zurn PEX B (no F1807 Fittings) in the truss and wall spaces instead of under slab because there may be issues with longevity of PEX, as indicated by the various class action lawsuits. Zurn is probably ok, but don't want to worry about this in the future.
I assume that, like your other builds, this plumbing is going to be covered by foam board and then concrete. If that's the case, then isn't your plumbing vulnerable to freezing in the winter?
I had the same question. My assumption is they are doing a slab on grade with radiant heat? Also the main drain leaving the house looks to be above the frost line but I’m not sure what zone they are in. Great video though. I learned a shit ton
Yeah it would be a lot more expensive to have a licensed plumber do it because they actually know what there doing genius, I could play a drinking game with your code violations
I don’t get it ? People are going to live in that structure? Folks read the big bad wolf story again. That thin walls uninsulated BARN is not livable. Must not be a code approved single family house . Is this like out on the prairie or something. Obviously a cash build . Can you see a real estate agent or a bank being involved!? You got people thinking this is the answer like it’s a real house !
I invite you to watch this video and tell me it’s not a real house. It’s just a different framing style all up to “code”. ua-cam.com/video/84jqTJl0Sl4/v-deo.htmlsi=lil1sMFq9icY9H-H
Your videos are the best I've found after years of researching such things on UA-cam. You don't leave anything out, have good camera work, and don't waist my time. Thank you.
Just a thought, when you do your cleanout outside, the wye furthest from the structure should be backwards to cleanout towards the building and the wye closest to the building should clean in the direction of the septic. This way you can clean the entire section. The way the wyes are laid out in the video you can't clean the section between the two wyes. Just FYI.
Do a two way clean out tee so you can go either direction
I can't tell you how much I appreciate a guy being willing to show so many of us how these things are done. People can knit pick things all they want, but you guys really put out some of the best "how to" videos on youtube and are my go to as I try to do my own project. Questions on water lines; A or B pex and what diameter? Reading that 1/2" pex B might not have enough flow with the reduced dia inside fittings. Pex A requires a spendy expansion tool, so I'm debating on 3/4" pex B or 1/2" pex a with buying an expansion tool
I have pex b in my personal house and I’m happy with it but you are right it is a slightly smaller inside diameter. I personally don’t notice any difference. Your water pressure will have some to do with that as well so that is something to figure out. Not sure whether you will have a well or be tied into rural water. Pex a expansion tools are more expensive but easy to use
Or to avoid the confusion and added cost of the tool use cpvc it's been tried and true for a lot of years w out fail cut and glue even under slab its straight easy to work with and can even be run to look decent in lieu of spaghetti pipe all over the place its just been my go to for many years w out any issues. . Ever not once
Your video editor is doing top notch work... All the extra little notes/text boxes inserted into the video are informative and super helpful in our understanding of what you are accomplishing from upload to upload. Thank you for making this extra effort. Great work, as always. I still find myself wishing that we got to see the entire project from start to finish... Usually, your part of the project ends long before we get to see the final product. Anyway, thanks for sharing all of this with us.
I love the way you organized that with your team, very smooth. I’ve been plumbing for 11 years now and these guys make things harder than it needs to be sometimes. Nice work 👍
Man I wish you were in my area. With your attention to detail I know my bardo would come out amazing!
Nice work. Personal preference on main clean out is flipping the wyes
Agree, good catch
Best channel on UA-cam, keep up the hard work y’all are awesome!!
I really like that ICF foundation that you did best. That thing was supper cool! I'm designing a 40x40 shop with a 24x40 apartment all under one roof right now. I might make it 8 ft. deeper but I'm not 100% sure right now. The 64 wide by 40 deep building will be on an ICF foundation. The shop portion will have hydronic heated concrete floors and the apartment side of the building will have a 4 ft. crawl space underneath the ground level floor. I'll also be using 6 inch SIP's for the walls and 8 inch SIP's for the roof. Another thing I like a lot is vaulted ceilings so instead of using the 2x4 roof trusses, I'll be using a ridge beam with only a few custom made heavy roof trusses that I'll make out of wood and custom power coated CNC plate metal brackets that I will bolt through the beams. Then I'll install a beveled edge T&G wood ceiling to the under side of the SIP's. This way I'll be able to have a nice looking vaulted ceiling that can handle a car lift without hitting the bottom of the roof trusses. My design will have I think 3 roof trusses in the garage and it will be a two garage door garage. I might be the first one to do this type of design and would love to see something like it on UA-cam but haven't so far.
Two comments- instead of 2 combinations for cleanout,use sanitary tee , one pipe stubbed up and can clean both ways. Island drains- use a studer vent, put it higher than drain. Studer vent has diaphragm inside that allows air in and no air out so no smell. If studer ever fails,screw off and put another. Studer are code in many states.
Hey there Paul, very interesting information on how you complete your plumbing work. Very nice work as always by you and the team! Looking forward to my build this spring!
I did new construction plumbing b a co in the day. This brings back memories. Good job yall.
Are there any constraints to encasing all entire pex runs in pvc? This way lines would be protected under slab and if a line ever failed you could re-pipe with pulling within pvc?
You will probably get some remarks from plumbers. I've learned over the years that many things will work. Even if it ain't code. And, codes change from state, county, city, etc.
Excellent video as always!
Thank you!
The clean out in front of the house the combos have to face each other, so there's not that little two foot area of the pipe that can't be reached, that's an inspection failure, just to make a note for the other people watching , a great job on all the stuff, but you want to face those two four inch combos facing towards each other if that makes me sense, so that you use the one that's furthest away from the house to clean back into the house and you use the one that's closer to the house to clean back into the septic tank, I hope that makes sense if you have any questions feel free to ask? Thank you for your video. If you don't have a double combo for the main clean out in front of the house and flip those two combos in the other direction towards each other then that will work.
Great jobs guys ❤
Just a thought but with the double clean out shouldn't they be reversed so the cross so you don't have a section that is not easy to clean out?
Looks like you larks headed that string line for tension, I am accustomed to larks head knot for the first nail, then for the tension I use a fiddlestring knot (just a loop and twist it for 5-6 times) on the second nail, gives you the ability to adjust the tension and then it's just a tug for the loose end to remove the knot and free the line. I am always trying to learn so I just wondered why not a fiddlestring knot when you put the tension end on the nail for the string line at the beginning of the video?
back vent on the toilet then a continuous vent on the lav? why not just wet vent it through the lav? am i missing something here?
Do you have a finished picture of the manifold finished inside?
a vent isn't always downstream from a trap. think of a wet vent situation where an upstream lavatory vent serves as a vent for a downstream tub and/or toilet.
SO am I able to use something like this when I am building a barndominium. Do I do it this way and then put concrete. I was told to add 2x6 around where the tub and toilets will be at so I have some wiggle room when it comes to install.
At 10:18. Isn't the sweep and lateral line closess to the camera lower than the main? Maybe it is just an optical illusion and the pipe sweeps away from the main.
Do you use recirculating pumps when you do that "home run hot water lines"? I have always found the homerun thing sucks without a pump. It takes forever to get hot water at a sink.
It would be. A great idea to at least run the extra line at that time if you use it great if not it's there for future use and I always throttle the moving water down it only needs to be moving enough to stay hot not taxing the heater to kick on constantly insulation on both the hot and recirc line is imperative but yes on a long run it does take some time for the hot to get there especially w today's water saver 2.5 gal per minute shower heads etc ..
What is the finished livable square footage? I’m doing a clear span steel 40/60 with post tension slab in central Texas. What is done differently in my scenario?
Would love to see pictures or video of this finished home..
Are they posted?
I wish so badly you did work here in Southern Nevada!
When u say doing the same thing on the bathroom measurement at the beginning of the video is that's taking the same 12 inch off twice on all measurements through the whole break off measurements for drains
I did a slab on grade and my plumber didn't run any extra pvc pipes under the slab for vents. I questioned this before we poured and they said they will do all wet vents in the wall? Is this right?
It just depends on the layout. Lots of variables to consider. I would need to see a layout.
Wet vents work fine as long as a few things are followed length size and amount of fixtures or fixture units only so many are allowed a standard bathroom toilet sink and shower for example the toilet is wet vented the other two fixtures are on the wet vent w in five ft of the toilet a wye is put in to pick up the other two on a two inch wet vent the shower is next staying w in a certain distance as to not block the air in the top of the pipe due to pitch 8 ft on 2 inch pipe is the number then the sink now its a wet vent all the way to the sanitary tee that picks up the sink above that it's a standard vent master baths can be a bit more complicated due to more fixtures and further distance between them but this is the standard way of doing it over the last 20 yrs at least
Do you ever use a student vent on your lines that are not vented like your island I'm in the south west and they are allowed here you should replace them once a year curious
I added a studor vent to my personal island. They aren't allowed everywhere and they do need to be checked and replaced.
I was just curious if you have ever though about building a passive post frame house? I am planning to try to build one in the next few years and would love your thoughts.
What is a passive post frame house
You dont have to do a high loop for venting, studor vent(air admittance) device.
Well said though.
great vid!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you!
I was wondering why you don’t use Studer vents/ admittance valve would be less pipe and fittings to run like on the island sink pipes but I am from Michigan so I know other city’s have different codes and ways of doing things just wondering if you know about them great videos man
They go wrong in time a conventional vent doesn't
What was included in your total build cost?
Was the concrete included? Framing?
What state are you in and was this permitted and inspected
Very helpful video
Thanks!
When I looked at the labor I was shocked .. then at the end he clarified.. no way a plumber would charge 2500.00 labor 🤣.. still done very well and well thought out .
Thanks for watching! What would you expect the charge to be?
How long does that sort of piping last? It seems nice to build but I would be concerned that the life of the building is pretty much the life of the pipe in the ground since it seems pretty much impossible to replace without tearing most of the building apart... Or can you manage it just taking out all the floors and concrete sawing patches around where the pipes are?
Long time...plumbing like this is done all over the country.
Thanks for the video. Helpful. I am going to run Zurn PEX B (no F1807 Fittings) in the truss and wall spaces instead of under slab because there may be issues with longevity of PEX, as indicated by the various class action lawsuits. Zurn is probably ok, but don't want to worry about this in the future.
Sounds great! Thanks for watching.
I assume that, like your other builds, this plumbing is going to be covered by foam board and then concrete. If that's the case, then isn't your plumbing vulnerable to freezing in the winter?
I had the same question. My assumption is they are doing a slab on grade with radiant heat? Also the main drain leaving the house looks to be above the frost line but I’m not sure what zone they are in. Great video though. I learned a shit ton
Who sets your grade pin also what program you use to draw your post Fran jobs. Thanks
Can I come work with u guys
What distance on the end of drain for the 9 feet deeper to the top of board before exiting to sewer piping
But where is the actual house. The blocks. The rebar. The strong stuff. This is just sticks to hold the concrete
I’m in ja
Where I came from run electrical in the floor is ilegal we ran 34" over finish floor
What if you had a pex leak
Why does he still use imperial and not metric. Metric is the way.
Yeah it would be a lot more expensive to have a licensed plumber do it because they actually know what there doing genius, I could play a drinking game with your code violations
Name them
I don’t get it ? People are going to live in that structure? Folks read the big bad wolf story again. That thin walls uninsulated BARN is not livable. Must not be a code approved single family house . Is this like out on the prairie or something. Obviously a cash build . Can you see a real estate agent or a bank being involved!? You got people thinking this is the answer like it’s a real house !
it all depends how you insulate. Our typical wall is around R28, which is better than our main house
I invite you to watch this video and tell me it’s not a real house. It’s just a different framing style all up to “code”.
ua-cam.com/video/84jqTJl0Sl4/v-deo.htmlsi=lil1sMFq9icY9H-H