I bought the additional nozzle pack as I wanted to print 'wooden ' PLA. Could not remove the heating element even by heating it up as suggested by Solvol. I gave up and bought a MicroSwiss replacement - dead easy to change the nozzle by simply unscrewing one and screwing in the new one. Well worth it.
I would have assumed you knew this... On the SV08, you only need to raise the Z axis and undo the two screws below the heater to swap out the heated nozzle section. My only mistake in doing this was failing to unload the filament first time around. With hard filament inside, you can't pull it out.
Thank you for the comment! Of course, I know it is enough to remove the nozzle, but my aim was to also show and compare the hotend removal process on the two similar devices. I aim to help beginners: even though it might take a bit longer, I find it much easier to replace the nozzle when the hotend is removed from the printer. I now received multiple requests to continue with the hardened steel nozzle, where I plan to demonstrate how we can remove just the nozzle. With the modular nozzle system featuring a threaded nozzle adapter and inner nozzle, we even have the option of unscrewing just the inner nozzle (similar to setups found in older printers). Would this make sense in your opinion?
I was hoping a nozzle replacement would be easier on the SV08, with two cap screws to remove and the heater and thermistor in the hot end above, but apparently that would place the heating and temperature sensing too far from the nozzle. I never liked trying to unscrew a threaded nozzle and screw in a replacement without putting too much torque on the extruder but that looks easier and less likely to damage the printer than the nozzle replacement on the SV08. I'm buying an SV08 on Black Friday. I was planning on buying two 0.6 mm hardened nozzles to allow me to print PETG-CF, or other glass or carbon fiber filled materials if I enclosed the printer for a higher ambient temperature. Seeing the difficulty of nozzle swapping on the SV08, maybe I'll just stick to the original 0.4 mm nozzle with TPU, PETG and PLA. :-/ I might also opt for an aftermarket extruder that is much better for printing TPU (I mostly print TPU) that also has a screw in Volcano style nozzle so I can swap it more easily. Thank you for the video. I saved it to my SV08 playlist so I can find it when I need to replace the nozzle.
I didn’t intend for the video to make it look difficult-it really doesn’t take that long. You can simply unscrew the two screws holding the nozzle while keeping the hotend in place (though you’d still need to unplug the heater and thermistor). With the hardened steel nozzle in an adapter, it’s even possible to just unscrew the threaded inner nozzle itself. However, as you noted, that can be tricky since it needs to be done at temperature while carefully holding the outer nozzle and avoid damaging the heater or thermistor... At least with the SV08, we don’t have the two additional grub screws located behind the extruder fan, which are necessary to loosen on the T300’s hotend. Congrats on getting an SV08! The current prices are the best since the early bird deals in May. It’s a fantastic printer, whether you decide to upgrade to a different extruder or stick with the stock one, which works quite well. Thank you for the thoughtful comment!
I tried the hardened steel nozzle, and not too happy: it seems you have to tighten it like crazy else filament will leak through the thread. On the other hand the copper bloc is great: with a simple modification (widening the entry of the thread for 0.5-1mm so the nozzle can go slightly deeper) it allows to use K1 screw-in nozzles, which are super common, with both cheap and high end (diamond) options.... I modified one of my blocs, for now it works well, even seems to work better than the original nozzle (higher flow rate). Not sure I will not have problems later and you need to be confortable with a dremel, but for now I'm happy with this mod (found on reddit k1 nozzle+sv08)
Thank you for the feedback! With all the tests and tuning I want to do with those nozzels it would have made this video too long. All this feedback comfirms I will continue with the nozzle adventures 😊
Szia Gergő! Az edzett acél fúvókát ki tudod cserélni az Elegoo Neptune 4 Plus/4 Max fúvókáival, a menetes rész teljesen megegyezik, apró eltérés a fejrésznél van, emiatt a hotend 1mm-el közelebb kerül az ágyhoz. Nyomtatáskor semmi problémát nem tapasztalok, nem szivárog a filament, tökéletesen zár a csatlakozás. A gyári SV08 fúvókák cseréje elég macerás volt eddig, de így sokkal könnyebb. Köszönöm az ismételten részletes videódat! Üdv, Gábor
Thanks for the kind feedback! I still have a lot of SV06+/SV07+ nozzles-brass and hardened steel-from 0.4mm to 1.0mm, and they also fit in the threaded adapter. My only concern is the top of the nozzle: the threads on the SV08 hardened steel nozzle stop partway, while my older nozzles have threads all the way up. I've seen others add small washers or rings to fill the gap, but that seems a bit complicated. It's great to hear it didn’t cause any issues for you! Since the Sovol nozzles are exactly the same length, I wouldn’t even need to adjust part cooling or anything like that. There’s still a lot more to test and fine-tune with filament presets for the hardened steel, which is why I decided not to include that whole sub-topic in this video. És köszi a visszajelzést, remélem nem baj, h a többiek miatt nem magyarul válaszoltam.
Wow, I feel sorry for anyone that bought these printers with out any prior experience in 3D printing. Way too complicated to change a nozzle, even having five years experience and having completely rebuilt many of the older Creality printers I wouldn't bother with these printers. Also although they fixed the issue, hard to believe the printer was released with a nozzle that would blow out when printing a common filament such as PETG.
I show the complete hotend removal but it can be simplified if one just removes the nozzle (with the two screws), or using the adapter that came with the hardened steel nozzles, it might even be possible to just drive out the threaded inner nozzle. Still, I agree, a quick locking mechanism like we see in other printers would have been nice to have here too.
I bought the additional nozzle pack as I wanted to print 'wooden ' PLA. Could not remove the heating element even by heating it up as suggested by Solvol. I gave up and bought a MicroSwiss replacement - dead easy to change the nozzle by simply unscrewing one and screwing in the new one. Well worth it.
I would have assumed you knew this... On the SV08, you only need to raise the Z axis and undo the two screws below the heater to swap out the heated nozzle section. My only mistake in doing this was failing to unload the filament first time around. With hard filament inside, you can't pull it out.
Thank you for the comment! Of course, I know it is enough to remove the nozzle, but my aim was to also show and compare the hotend removal process on the two similar devices. I aim to help beginners: even though it might take a bit longer, I find it much easier to replace the nozzle when the hotend is removed from the printer.
I now received multiple requests to continue with the hardened steel nozzle, where I plan to demonstrate how we can remove just the nozzle. With the modular nozzle system featuring a threaded nozzle adapter and inner nozzle, we even have the option of unscrewing just the inner nozzle (similar to setups found in older printers). Would this make sense in your opinion?
I was hoping a nozzle replacement would be easier on the SV08, with two cap screws to remove and the heater and thermistor in the hot end above, but apparently that would place the heating and temperature sensing too far from the nozzle. I never liked trying to unscrew a threaded nozzle and screw in a replacement without putting too much torque on the extruder but that looks easier and less likely to damage the printer than the nozzle replacement on the SV08.
I'm buying an SV08 on Black Friday. I was planning on buying two 0.6 mm hardened nozzles to allow me to print PETG-CF, or other glass or carbon fiber filled materials if I enclosed the printer for a higher ambient temperature. Seeing the difficulty of nozzle swapping on the SV08, maybe I'll just stick to the original 0.4 mm nozzle with TPU, PETG and PLA. :-/
I might also opt for an aftermarket extruder that is much better for printing TPU (I mostly print TPU) that also has a screw in Volcano style nozzle so I can swap it more easily.
Thank you for the video. I saved it to my SV08 playlist so I can find it when I need to replace the nozzle.
I didn’t intend for the video to make it look difficult-it really doesn’t take that long. You can simply unscrew the two screws holding the nozzle while keeping the hotend in place (though you’d still need to unplug the heater and thermistor). With the hardened steel nozzle in an adapter, it’s even possible to just unscrew the threaded inner nozzle itself. However, as you noted, that can be tricky since it needs to be done at temperature while carefully holding the outer nozzle and avoid damaging the heater or thermistor...
At least with the SV08, we don’t have the two additional grub screws located behind the extruder fan, which are necessary to loosen on the T300’s hotend.
Congrats on getting an SV08! The current prices are the best since the early bird deals in May. It’s a fantastic printer, whether you decide to upgrade to a different extruder or stick with the stock one, which works quite well.
Thank you for the thoughtful comment!
Would love to see the difference in the hardened nozzles.
It will need different filament presets (higher temps) and I want to experiment using SV06+/SV07 nozzles in the sleeve
I tried the hardened steel nozzle, and not too happy: it seems you have to tighten it like crazy else filament will leak through the thread.
On the other hand the copper bloc is great: with a simple modification (widening the entry of the thread for 0.5-1mm so the nozzle can go slightly deeper) it allows to use K1 screw-in nozzles, which are super common, with both cheap and high end (diamond) options.... I modified one of my blocs, for now it works well, even seems to work better than the original nozzle (higher flow rate). Not sure I will not have problems later and you need to be confortable with a dremel, but for now I'm happy with this mod (found on reddit k1 nozzle+sv08)
Yes please for the following up about the hardening nozzles!
Thank you for the feedback! With all the tests and tuning I want to do with those nozzels it would have made this video too long. All this feedback comfirms I will continue with the nozzle adventures 😊
Szia Gergő! Az edzett acél fúvókát ki tudod cserélni az Elegoo Neptune 4 Plus/4 Max fúvókáival, a menetes rész teljesen megegyezik, apró eltérés a fejrésznél van, emiatt a hotend 1mm-el közelebb kerül az ágyhoz. Nyomtatáskor semmi problémát nem tapasztalok, nem szivárog a filament, tökéletesen zár a csatlakozás. A gyári SV08 fúvókák cseréje elég macerás volt eddig, de így sokkal könnyebb. Köszönöm az ismételten részletes videódat! Üdv, Gábor
Thanks for the kind feedback! I still have a lot of SV06+/SV07+ nozzles-brass and hardened steel-from 0.4mm to 1.0mm, and they also fit in the threaded adapter. My only concern is the top of the nozzle: the threads on the SV08 hardened steel nozzle stop partway, while my older nozzles have threads all the way up. I've seen others add small washers or rings to fill the gap, but that seems a bit complicated. It's great to hear it didn’t cause any issues for you! Since the Sovol nozzles are exactly the same length, I wouldn’t even need to adjust part cooling or anything like that. There’s still a lot more to test and fine-tune with filament presets for the hardened steel, which is why I decided not to include that whole sub-topic in this video.
És köszi a visszajelzést, remélem nem baj, h a többiek miatt nem magyarul válaszoltam.
Wow, I feel sorry for anyone that bought these printers with out any prior experience in 3D printing. Way too complicated to change a nozzle, even having five years experience and having completely rebuilt many of the older Creality printers I wouldn't bother with these printers. Also although they fixed the issue, hard to believe the printer was released with a nozzle that would blow out when printing a common filament such as PETG.
I show the complete hotend removal but it can be simplified if one just removes the nozzle (with the two screws), or using the adapter that came with the hardened steel nozzles, it might even be possible to just drive out the threaded inner nozzle. Still, I agree, a quick locking mechanism like we see in other printers would have been nice to have here too.