I had the same idea of putting the dryer under the AMS after i commented on your last video. Die cabels and electronics made me reconsider. Aside of that i designed similar ducts like you but with bigger diameter for less air restriction and because i like to see the world burn i used supports on everything - lol. Anyway I used PLA on purpose but designed the fit just a little bit to small. That way the heated site fomed itself into a perfect fit and the cold side got initially bit of help and later also fitted itself nicely! Thanks fot the inspiration! Amazing!
Something I've wondered about for dumping the moisture is to intentionally put a small hole in both the intake and exhaust of the ductwork you designed for the dryer base allowing for an intentional leak that will both intake "dry" air and exhaust "wet" air from within the box. It wouldn't take much, maybe 1/8 to 1/4 inch in diameter,.I've done that with my Sunlu dry box, but it is entirely passive. Then again, I typically dry my filament in 24 hour cycles.
Thanks for the kind words friend. I am so happy this is resonating and we plan to keep the one video a week train rolling. Happy to have you around. My nick miller line is “this is my nightmare” but it’s not my nightmare so I’ll just stick with “I hate doors”
That's cool. I can imagine using one of those heaters on the bottom, with a spacer to hold up the other side. Combining this with rechargeable desiccant would probably would probably maximize dryness.
Very true. I initially thought about just making a spacer for the other side and sticking with one heater but having the extra power to cook multiple rolls has been helpful. That said, it is not all that often that I have four rolls needing dryed at the same time but it is cool to know it can be done with two dryers fairly easily
It looks like aligning the dryer hot vent to were the desiccant pouches go in the AMS should minimize the potential issue with the electronics, not to mention that the hot air would blow freely into the spool chamber. It would also make it possible to use the dry box's plugs to cover the vent opening when the dryer is off the AMS.
This is a pro and a con. The idea is awesome. That is the pro. the con is Poly isn't selling the dock separately. so you have to pay a ton of money for 2 items to get 1.
If nothing is blowing in from outside (as opposed to recirculating) you won't have positive pressure to open the valves so it's clear where the moisture is going,.
nice project, I just started 3d printing a few months ago and just reacently bought a polydryer with 3 aditional storage boxes, but I found out that those were pretty regular boxes with not much sience, so I also theorized a better way to dry fylament using the polydryer and use the AMS lite at the same time with a little bit of thinkering but I don't think I have time nor motivation for that Now my idea... I'm no expert but as far as I know the only real electronics in an AMS aside from the feeder motor units is the motherboard and cables, if you are so worried about electronic componnents geating up I think it's better to insulate those components as much as possible, I guess it's also posible to relocate them to a place where not much heat passes through
Yeah, good thing you printed the TPU on the textured plate.... You'd have never gotten it off the smooth plate. Just a little tip though...TPU will release with the help of isopropyl alcohol.. just pool some around the base of the print and wait a couple minutes for it to start to wick under.... It'll release with no issues.
Whelp, I still think a silicone heater pad stuck to the bottom with maybe a raspberry pi keeping the temp from melting the box is a good thing to explore. Having said that on the topic of evacuating the moisture. Have a look at the tech they use in modern HVAC where they use a desicant to transfer heat and moisture between the air leaving the house and the air entering. I'm betting there are useful ideas that transfer to this stuff.
So spend money on electric dryers and power to run them and achieve 35% humidity. Or for the cost of printing some gel holders and gel (one off, low cost) get 17% himidity.. YMMV but second option for me and all my 4 AMSes are at 17-18%.
Yea man this certainly isn’t a blanket thing for everyone but it was a super fun project to test what could be accomplished. Happy to spend the time to share my findings anyway. Although at the very end of the video you can see that the humidity came right down 27. After an additional drying cycle it was below 20! Even with all the hacking I did. Totally crazy
Man, really nice video, did the passive humidity scape worked as you expected? I did my own dry box, and had no silica gel to trap the humidity after and was wondering if a passive solution like yours would be my way to go, too
Yea man that’s super hard to judge for sure but I can report that the humidity read low and stayed low so I’m guessing it found a way out without desiccant
Nice video man, thinking of doing this mod to my ams as I have recently started printing nylon and abs for a project! Is there any chance you could share where you found the files for that gta iv map you have mounted on your wall? Dropping a sub btw!
Sick! Happy to have you around. You inspired me to make a short about this one so that'll be coming out Monday since I already have a new video coming tomorrow at 8am. Here are the files thangs.com/designer/KeoPrints/3d-model/1150406
Great videos on your channel, subscribed. 🙂 I think instead of this mod I'd probably do the full enclosure python mod. It has a lot of advantages aside from just being more friendly to cardboard spools. Look into it. 👍
also place the dryers on top of the lid :) makes it harder to cut the holes and potentially open the lid (unless you find a way to fix em down) but makes it so the electronics are 100% safe
I did throw some holes in the tray as well to help out as there wasn’t much room for the air to circulate otherwise. You can just barely see it in the video but I did not mention it
Wait, is the Poly Dryer just a peltier cooler?? I was thinking of how you could use the hotside as a heat exchange since they get so hot. (Thanks Technology Connections!) But those use a ton of power. Also, is 27% good? I don't really have a metric for gauging that but have seen people with 5-10% as the goal in other places. I live in the SE USA and it's 80-95% inside the house so anything is better than that. Either way, this looks fantastic, man. Can't wait to try this myself when I get a system. Great job!
I think it's just a heating element and a blower of some description along with a filter but I am not certain. As for the humidity, 27% is not a good level but it illustrated that the box humidity was dropping at least. It typically sits around 12% these days after four dry cycles instead of two. Let me know how it goes, great to hear you’re giving it a shot when the time comes!
@@KeoPrints Ahh, gotcha. Was thinking since you said it had a hot and a cold side it was a Peltier. Just watched a few of your videos and you're doing awesome! Keep 'em coming and you'll have that affiliate link in no time!
It's an interesting topic and if you just like to tinker then fair enough. However, I don't think this is practical at all. I just 3d printed the popular desicant mods that fit between the spool feeders and others that fit in the centre of the spool and filled them with re-usable orange desicant. The hydromiter inside the AMS constantly reads 11%. The one outside for conparison reads ~70%. No heaters required, and a tub of desciant probably costs less than those two driers and does not void your warranty by drilling into your AMS.
Yea have a look at the first video in the series where I spoke about that a little. I wanted to see if there was a way to accomplish the task of drying without the use and maintenance of desiccant. Trivial stipulation but it was a fun project as a result
Heating does not reduce the amount of moisture it just reduces the RELATIVE humidity because warm air can hold more moisture than cold air. The then warm air hence can hold moisture coming out of the filament and also there the heat helps that moisture to exit the filament. But then that extracted moisture increases the relative humidity of that warm air again and to keep on extracting moisture from the filament you need to get that warm air out. Heating it up further gives diminishing returns and you cannot get it higher than the temperature the filament can stand, so you just need to get that warm and now moist air out, not just by overpressure, but just let it out through big enough holes. Check out how a food dehydrator does it. But if that warm air is exhausted, you need to replace it by new warm air that is less moist, i.e. you want to get external (or dried by dessicant) relatively dry cold air to pass through the heater, where it is heated up again, lowering its relative humidity further and the cycle can start over. Filament dryer manufacturers should really just have a look at even the cheapest food dehydrator on how you actually dehydrate stuff. You don't do that with a tiny DC heater and circulating air around and around, but you use a relatively powerful AC heater to heat up a large amount of air that is just pushed over the thing to dry and is then exhausted together with the moisture.
These are all fair points. So far I haven’t seen any moisture return to the spools after drying and letting the temp return to ambient. It sits pretty steady at 12% but the disadvantage is completely ruining the system when I open the box to move spools. Desiccant takes the win there no doubt! Oh well. More testing more tinkering
@@KeoPrints But again that 12% is relative humidity. It says barely anything on how dry the inside is, unless you also mention the temperature. If you simply heat up a closed space filled with air the relative humidity (and hence the % shown on the meter) will go down significantly, yet the actual amount of moisture in that space has not changed. If there is a source of extra moisture in that space (ex. your filament), it might now release some of that moisture, which is the intention, but that then also makes the total amount of moisture in the air go up. The relative humidity will slightly increase, but likely still be way lower than what you had at room temperature. But, the moment the temperature then drops again, the air will have less room to hold moisture and hence water will condense where it sees fit (typically on the coldest outside walls) and at that point also your filament might regain some of the moisture. Once the temperature is again ambient, If the space is truely closed off, and the relative humidity is then lower than before the temperature cycle, that either means there should now be a puddle of water somewhere in the space or something (your filament? dessicant?) has absorbed more moisture than it held before the cycle. If that is the goal (i.e. if the intention of the heater is just to speed up getting the moisture into the dessicant), then sure this circulating heated air has a use, at least until the dessicant is saturated, which can be very quickly if you're drying really moist filament. Whereas continuously passing fresh heated air over the item to dry and then just letting it out to spread the taken up moisture over a much larger volume (your room, house, the world), can keep on taking up moisture as long as the filament has some to give. Sure, you'll be venting off heat and hence this will be less efficient at getting the temperature inside that space up, but the goal was also not to just get the temperature up, it was to dry the thing in that space!
Yea I see the little vent holes there but I couldn’t find any documentation to confirm that they were explicitly for moisture evacuation so I’m just moving forward under the assumption that the system needs some extra ventilation
@KeoPrints I would have to guess that polymaker thought about this when they designed the polydryer. I wouldn't be worried about it. If people are questioning where the moisture goes then they are questioning how well the polydryer works on its own.
@@KeoPrints suffice to say your "duckbill" vent is doing nothing..... Problem is the box is no-longer sealed with the playmaker heater attached, and will quickly draw in moisture when not turner on
EIBOS 3D will be releasing a BAMBU LABS AMS ADD ON FOR THE STOCK AMS UNIT, HOLD OFF ON MODDING YOUR AMS, RELEASE IS IMMINENT (PENDING BEFORE END OF YEAR) NICK NAMED "PROJECT TETRAS"
My big problem with everyone using these polydryers is you literally can't buy the drier by itself and I already have storage boxes for my spools so I'm not going to buy the combo when I'm just going to never use the box. I really hope they make it so you can buy it solo but I highly doubt it.
Wow, a lot of effort and destruction of your AMS. The final design for two on the bottom was really genius and would have saved a lot of time. You never mentioned whether the duck-bill moisture release ever worked or not? Was the duck worth the bill?
Tell me about it! Yea it’s hard to tell if the duck vent actually worked but what I have measured is the moisture level remaining at 17% after a few days so I would imagine the moisture that is baked out of the filament isn’t returning to the filament
I wouldn't call my first version piss poor... piss middle class at least but certainly not poor. I would say this version is at least piss upper-middle class now
It is real cool the community was able to help out and perfect the project. Keep up the good work!
Great real world/unvarnished video. Thx😉😉
Print two white smaller circles and then some smaller black ones. Now you got some eyes for your AMS.
You’re onto something here
I had the same idea of putting the dryer under the AMS after i commented on your last video. Die cabels and electronics made me reconsider. Aside of that i designed similar ducts like you but with bigger diameter for less air restriction and because i like to see the world burn i used supports on everything - lol.
Anyway I used PLA on purpose but designed the fit just a little bit to small. That way the heated site fomed itself into a perfect fit and the cold side got initially bit of help and later also fitted itself nicely!
Thanks fot the inspiration! Amazing!
Good work! Way to get out there and give it a shot as well. That’s awesome
Something I've wondered about for dumping the moisture is to intentionally put a small hole in both the intake and exhaust of the ductwork you designed for the dryer base allowing for an intentional leak that will both intake "dry" air and exhaust "wet" air from within the box. It wouldn't take much, maybe 1/8 to 1/4 inch in diameter,.I've done that with my Sunlu dry box, but it is entirely passive. Then again, I typically dry my filament in 24 hour cycles.
Interesting thought!
you are now my favorite youtuber, a follow up video with multiple revisions, and your demenor is 👌 . also.... thank you nick
Thanks for the kind words friend. I am so happy this is resonating and we plan to keep the one video a week train rolling. Happy to have you around.
My nick miller line is “this is my nightmare” but it’s not my nightmare so I’ll just stick with “I hate doors”
@@KeoPrints you hate doors, and support material
Exactly. In this universe Nick Miller Hates support material. I’m gonna make a shirt that says support material is garbage
That's cool. I can imagine using one of those heaters on the bottom, with a spacer to hold up the other side.
Combining this with rechargeable desiccant would probably would probably maximize dryness.
Very true. I initially thought about just making a spacer for the other side and sticking with one heater but having the extra power to cook multiple rolls has been helpful. That said, it is not all that often that I have four rolls needing dryed at the same time but it is cool to know it can be done with two dryers fairly easily
Looking at online ad from polymaker, the dryer has some moisture venting on the side already, so maybe you don't need any kind of vent.
It looks like aligning the dryer hot vent to were the desiccant pouches go in the AMS should minimize the potential issue with the electronics, not to mention that the hot air would blow freely into the spool chamber. It would also make it possible to use the dry box's plugs to cover the vent opening when the dryer is off the AMS.
This is amazing! I was seeing the setup in the background throughout the video, and hoooooping it would be brought up in the end :D
This is a pro and a con. The idea is awesome. That is the pro. the con is Poly isn't selling the dock separately. so you have to pay a ton of money for 2 items to get 1.
Agreed. The base is a great option but it sucks that you can’t get it on its own. Those suckers would be selling like crazy
If nothing is blowing in from outside (as opposed to recirculating) you won't have positive pressure to open the valves so it's clear where the moisture is going,.
Yeah, now it's great!
I agree. This puppy cooks now
You deserve more subscribers just because of your demeanour
They’re on their way and I’m glad you’re hanging out with us
nice project, I just started 3d printing a few months ago and just reacently bought a polydryer with 3 aditional storage boxes, but I found out that those were pretty regular boxes with not much sience, so I also theorized a better way to dry fylament using the polydryer and use the AMS lite at the same time with a little bit of thinkering but I don't think I have time nor motivation for that
Now my idea... I'm no expert but as far as I know the only real electronics in an AMS aside from the feeder motor units is the motherboard and cables, if you are so worried about electronic componnents geating up I think it's better to insulate those components as much as possible, I guess it's also posible to relocate them to a place where not much heat passes through
Great to hear! Happy you stopped by
Yea we will see how the electronics do in the heat longer term but I’m happy with the progress!
Yeah, good thing you printed the TPU on the textured plate.... You'd have never gotten it off the smooth plate. Just a little tip though...TPU will release with the help of isopropyl alcohol.. just pool some around the base of the print and wait a couple minutes for it to start to wick under.... It'll release with no issues.
Very cool man!!
Slightly disappointed that Bambu doesn’t sell a replacement for the lower body of the AMS. That would make me a lot less nervous about the mod.
As an individual that has so many holes in his enclosure now; I agree
They do, it's 59.99.
I am loving all the videos dude, if this dryer box goes on sale I may give something like this a shot
That’s amazing! I appreciate you hanging out
Whelp, I still think a silicone heater pad stuck to the bottom with maybe a raspberry pi keeping the temp from melting the box is a good thing to explore. Having said that on the topic of evacuating the moisture. Have a look at the tech they use in modern HVAC where they use a desicant to transfer heat and moisture between the air leaving the house and the air entering. I'm betting there are useful ideas that transfer to this stuff.
So spend money on electric dryers and power to run them and achieve 35% humidity.
Or for the cost of printing some gel holders and gel (one off, low cost) get 17% himidity..
YMMV but second option for me and all my 4 AMSes are at 17-18%.
Yea man this certainly isn’t a blanket thing for everyone but it was a super fun project to test what could be accomplished. Happy to spend the time to share my findings anyway.
Although at the very end of the video you can see that the humidity came right down 27. After an additional drying cycle it was below 20! Even with all the hacking I did. Totally crazy
what if you replaced all sides of the AMS with polydryers? that way you wouldnt need to drill any holes
You know, you aren't the first to recommend that but I think you guys are onto something there. Ultimate AMS PolyDryer Mod!
Man, really nice video, did the passive humidity scape worked as you expected? I did my own dry box, and had no silica gel to trap the humidity after and was wondering if a passive solution like yours would be my way to go, too
Yea man that’s super hard to judge for sure but I can report that the humidity read low and stayed low so I’m guessing it found a way out without desiccant
Quack quack.
Love the video.
Prototype 1, 2, 3, 4, ........ 25. It works!
Always nice to have a victory
Hey, Formula 409 got it's name because it took them that many tries to get the formula right! Never give up!
Nice video man, thinking of doing this mod to my ams as I have recently started printing nylon and abs for a project!
Is there any chance you could share where you found the files for that gta iv map you have mounted on your wall?
Dropping a sub btw!
Sick! Happy to have you around. You inspired me to make a short about this one so that'll be coming out Monday since I already have a new video coming tomorrow at 8am.
Here are the files
thangs.com/designer/KeoPrints/3d-model/1150406
Great videos on your channel, subscribed. 🙂
I think instead of this mod I'd probably do the full enclosure python mod. It has a lot of advantages aside from just being more friendly to cardboard spools. Look into it. 👍
Totally with you on that. That’s an excellent way to solve a lot of problems this thing has!
the dryers are designed to circulate air right? so could you not hook them up to circulate air between the two and have one exhaust the air?
also place the dryers on top of the lid :) makes it harder to cut the holes and potentially open the lid (unless you find a way to fix em down) but makes it so the electronics are 100% safe
True true. That would be ideal for the electronics overall
So only the holes in the bottom were needed? No extra holes in the tray or anything to let the hot air up to the spools?
I did throw some holes in the tray as well to help out as there wasn’t much room for the air to circulate otherwise. You can just barely see it in the video but I did not mention it
Wait, is the Poly Dryer just a peltier cooler?? I was thinking of how you could use the hotside as a heat exchange since they get so hot. (Thanks Technology Connections!) But those use a ton of power.
Also, is 27% good? I don't really have a metric for gauging that but have seen people with 5-10% as the goal in other places. I live in the SE USA and it's 80-95% inside the house so anything is better than that.
Either way, this looks fantastic, man. Can't wait to try this myself when I get a system. Great job!
I think it's just a heating element and a blower of some description along with a filter but I am not certain. As for the humidity, 27% is not a good level but it illustrated that the box humidity was dropping at least. It typically sits around 12% these days after four dry cycles instead of two.
Let me know how it goes, great to hear you’re giving it a shot when the time comes!
@@KeoPrints Ahh, gotcha. Was thinking since you said it had a hot and a cold side it was a Peltier.
Just watched a few of your videos and you're doing awesome! Keep 'em coming and you'll have that affiliate link in no time!
I appreciate the heck out of it my friend!
It's an interesting topic and if you just like to tinker then fair enough. However, I don't think this is practical at all. I just 3d printed the popular desicant mods that fit between the spool feeders and others that fit in the centre of the spool and filled them with re-usable orange desicant. The hydromiter inside the AMS constantly reads 11%. The one outside for conparison reads ~70%. No heaters required, and a tub of desciant probably costs less than those two driers and does not void your warranty by drilling into your AMS.
Yea have a look at the first video in the series where I spoke about that a little. I wanted to see if there was a way to accomplish the task of drying without the use and maintenance of desiccant. Trivial stipulation but it was a fun project as a result
Heating does not reduce the amount of moisture it just reduces the RELATIVE humidity because warm air can hold more moisture than cold air. The then warm air hence can hold moisture coming out of the filament and also there the heat helps that moisture to exit the filament. But then that extracted moisture increases the relative humidity of that warm air again and to keep on extracting moisture from the filament you need to get that warm air out. Heating it up further gives diminishing returns and you cannot get it higher than the temperature the filament can stand, so you just need to get that warm and now moist air out, not just by overpressure, but just let it out through big enough holes. Check out how a food dehydrator does it. But if that warm air is exhausted, you need to replace it by new warm air that is less moist, i.e. you want to get external (or dried by dessicant) relatively dry cold air to pass through the heater, where it is heated up again, lowering its relative humidity further and the cycle can start over. Filament dryer manufacturers should really just have a look at even the cheapest food dehydrator on how you actually dehydrate stuff. You don't do that with a tiny DC heater and circulating air around and around, but you use a relatively powerful AC heater to heat up a large amount of air that is just pushed over the thing to dry and is then exhausted together with the moisture.
These are all fair points. So far I haven’t seen any moisture return to the spools after drying and letting the temp return to ambient. It sits pretty steady at 12% but the disadvantage is completely ruining the system when I open the box to move spools. Desiccant takes the win there no doubt! Oh well. More testing more tinkering
@@KeoPrints But again that 12% is relative humidity. It says barely anything on how dry the inside is, unless you also mention the temperature. If you simply heat up a closed space filled with air the relative humidity (and hence the % shown on the meter) will go down significantly, yet the actual amount of moisture in that space has not changed. If there is a source of extra moisture in that space (ex. your filament), it might now release some of that moisture, which is the intention, but that then also makes the total amount of moisture in the air go up. The relative humidity will slightly increase, but likely still be way lower than what you had at room temperature. But, the moment the temperature then drops again, the air will have less room to hold moisture and hence water will condense where it sees fit (typically on the coldest outside walls) and at that point also your filament might regain some of the moisture. Once the temperature is again ambient, If the space is truely closed off, and the relative humidity is then lower than before the temperature cycle, that either means there should now be a puddle of water somewhere in the space or something (your filament? dessicant?) has absorbed more moisture than it held before the cycle. If that is the goal (i.e. if the intention of the heater is just to speed up getting the moisture into the dessicant), then sure this circulating heated air has a use, at least until the dessicant is saturated, which can be very quickly if you're drying really moist filament. Whereas continuously passing fresh heated air over the item to dry and then just letting it out to spread the taken up moisture over a much larger volume (your room, house, the world), can keep on taking up moisture as long as the filament has some to give. Sure, you'll be venting off heat and hence this will be less efficient at getting the temperature inside that space up, but the goal was also not to just get the temperature up, it was to dry the thing in that space!
The polydryer DOES have vent holes on the sides meant to allow moisture to escape bud. Idk how effective they are but they're there.
Yea I see the little vent holes there but I couldn’t find any documentation to confirm that they were explicitly for moisture evacuation so I’m just moving forward under the assumption that the system needs some extra ventilation
@KeoPrints I would have to guess that polymaker thought about this when they designed the polydryer. I wouldn't be worried about it.
If people are questioning where the moisture goes then they are questioning how well the polydryer works on its own.
In the video on their website it shows them venting out air from the sides.
@@KeoPrints suffice to say your "duckbill" vent is doing nothing.....
Problem is the box is no-longer sealed with the playmaker heater attached, and will quickly draw in moisture when not turner on
@@KeoPrints Those holes are intentional for moisture escape. I've asked them prior to purchased.
EIBOS 3D will be releasing a BAMBU LABS AMS ADD ON FOR THE STOCK AMS UNIT, HOLD OFF ON MODDING YOUR AMS, RELEASE IS IMMINENT (PENDING BEFORE END OF YEAR) NICK NAMED "PROJECT TETRAS"
Yea I saw that. Should be super cool!
My big problem with everyone using these polydryers is you literally can't buy the drier by itself and I already have storage boxes for my spools so I'm not going to buy the combo when I'm just going to never use the box. I really hope they make it so you can buy it solo but I highly doubt it.
I’m with you and so are a bunch of people. This would be such an excellent accessory if it was available like that
@keoprints, left a long message on your Patreon page. Loving your projects and wanted to share what your thoughts are doing to my brain.
My guy. I’m all over it. That’s an excellent place to connect. I’ll get back with you
What if you added one more polydryer on the bottom, and two more, one on each side? /just kiddin
You’re on the right track I think. That will be my next follow up video
Wow, a lot of effort and destruction of your AMS. The final design for two on the bottom was really genius and would have saved a lot of time. You never mentioned whether the duck-bill moisture release ever worked or not? Was the duck worth the bill?
Tell me about it! Yea it’s hard to tell if the duck vent actually worked but what I have measured is the moisture level remaining at 17% after a few days so I would imagine the moisture that is baked out of the filament isn’t returning to the filament
Eh… desiccant works well by itself. Cheaper and easier solution. My AMS has been at 20% RH for weeks now, despite quite a few filament swap outs.
Do not EVER do one of those lightning wood burning projects, Keo.
Not you.
Don't think that would go well for me? You’re probably correct
Subscribing so you can be a real youtuber.
You’re one of the real ones
If you have time to 'fix it later' and do a piss poor job in the first place, you have time to do it right the first time.
I wouldn't call my first version piss poor... piss middle class at least but certainly not poor. I would say this version is at least piss upper-middle class now