I appreciate your extra effort in working through this step at a time. Someone at Sovol is surely typing very quickly, taking notes based on your observations. If it were my company, I would be. This will probably be my next printer...after the bugs are flogged out of it, either by Sovol, or by enthusiasts like you. Thank you.
Yes, I have already signalled these issues in the beta tester group and the Sovol team is very appreciative! I can see they do everything in their power to sort out any issues. This is a daunting job!
Also, another note... I bought the enclosure about 4 months after this video was published, and the top mount for the cable chain has been updated. There is now a longer arm after the bolt, allowing it to attach farther for the right. Mine snapped about 5 seconds into the install, due to the way the printed it... it the layers are in-line with the downward pull of the chain (due to gravity), which does not make for a very strong print. I'm printing out someone else's updated model now, and making sure it is oriented for strength!
Haha, it's mind-boggling how bad they are at 3D printing machine parts, especially for a company that makes 3D printers. I considered designing a modified bracket, but that was only after I drilled the hole-so I just ended up using it as it was. The enclosure (and the drag chain) have held up, though; they've been chugging along for nearly half a year now
Got my enclosure kit today (AUS). The 3d printed bottom drag chain mount broke the first time I clicked it in 😂 I’ve had to take a break from trying to fit the tool head cable and drag chain while also maintaining the advertised max gantry height, the cable just isn’t long enough really. Re-watching your video several times has helped reassure me that I’m not completely bonkers, thanks! ❤
Yes, that cable chain is kind of the Achilles' heel of this upgrade. It can even be skipped, in my opinion, if someone is not inclined to drill extra holes and wrestle with the thing. My bottom cover piece also broke, but it still holds up. Actually, now that I have it installed, it works perfectly fine; it hasn't limited the movement or caused extra strain on the cable. However, that part needs a major overhaul from Sovol!
My enclosure finally arrived; I removed the 'tape' from the sleeve and pulled the 1" of Y axes wire allowing everything to fit, kind of, the Y axes wire is tight, I built a 2" jumper. Seems Sovol left one instruction out: After you screw the 3 screws into the drag chain mount you must unhook the first segment of the drag chain before routing the wire harness otherwise the wires (camera, Y,X axes) are way too short. 6 pin PH 2mm male and female connector plus IWS-3220 crimp tool and EMBLA Pressmaster wire strippers: UPDATE I removed the 6 pin 2.0mm PH jumper I made, built a 4 pin XH male to female jumper and plugged it into the controller after I fought the crap hot glue to get the Y axes cable out. I cut the cable sleave open on both ends to enable pulling the extra Y axes cable and extra USB cable to move the connector out of the drag chain. Now it looks clean on the top and the drag chain works as it should after I replaced the original chain mount on the bottom with the updated one from Sovol. Note, the PH and XH connectors have male connectors as separate kits from the connector female kits, just more ways to spend money.
Thank you for this view of the SV08 enclosure. I wondered why the enclosure is a US$170 add-on at the Sovol site. Given the materials, it's very nice. I print a lot of TPU so I need to remove the top and direct feed the TPU from a bearing hub reel holder above the the printer, directly into the extruder. It would be nice if Sovol designed the two top halves to fold in half and snap into a vertical position in the back rather than needing to remove glass panels and not break them. Maybe the rider can be designed to have slots for vertically storing the two pieces of top glass. The same is true of the doors. Keeping the doors open when printing PLA is a good way to break them. Rather than heat soaking the bed to passively heat the chamber before printing ABS, I'd probably be inclined to add a small thermostatically controlled chamber heater with a temperature display, which would also result in more uniform results regardless of ambient air temperature.
Yes, it’s definitely high-quality! Considering the materials and design-and seeing what Prusa and others are offering in the enclosure space-the $170 price tag isn’t all that surprising. Add-ons like these are often positioned as premium upgrades, similar to how car manufacturers offer features like leather seats or panoramic roofs for those wanting more specialized setups. With the recent temperature drop since the video, I’ve found that sliding just the front half of the top glass over the back keeps half of it open, and that’s been enough for PLA prints to come out just right at cooler ambient temps. You may have also seen my previous video with the door prop I designed, which holds the doors open-a handy fix, though I share the same worry about bumping them when they’re open. For ABS printing, I’ve actually been using the Qidi Tech Q1 Pro’s heated chamber along with the inline vent from my CO2 laser (see ua-cam.com/video/WDmKNF9fk7g/v-deo.html from 6:47), which has turned into my go-to solution for maintaining a stable environment and venting effectively. But if the SV08 were my only enclosed printer, I’d definitely look into adding chamber heating and upgrading the vent system too.
To move the fan to the side, just make a 1" thick chamber that connects to the fan slot and extends to the side, then turn the fan 90 deg and connect it to the chamber. You wan't need to cut any holes. You may just need an extension cable for the fan. I don't have a SV08, but on my printer I made a connector to connect the fan to CPAP hose, and created a window box 4" tall with a number of cpap connectors. That way I can run hoses from several printers and the air goes out the window.
Thank you! Yes, I think I will do something like this. Problem is I don't even have an inch behind the printer currently, my printers will need to be moved around a bit... I will sure make a video about the eventual solution!
@@gerGoPrint3D Or maybe even easier: If you're going to redesign the raised top; close all the holes that are in there now and make only one on one if the sides which mounts a fan.. You could make 'funnel' like adapter piece for a regular fan like the one which is installed now, but a radial fan will fit probably better. (however, you want it to exhaust the fumes, so you would need to power the fan in reverse making it less efficient of course but as an exhaust fan it does not have to perform)
Here in the U.S. , You can get a material called Dynamat, which is a very dense thin material used for sound dampening in cars and other areas. I plan on, when i finally get my svo8 , to add a 12 x 12 inch sheet or more to each panel to add sound proofing and help retain heat when needed as there is some with a Foil back.
They really should offer a finished version with the enclosure already installed. I would print a TPU strip to close that gap between the 2 front doors. ABS is much stronger if printed in a 50-60c environment.
I did not know chamber temp affected ABS strength, makes perfect sense though. I like the idea of a removable TPU strip, originally I was thinking of just adding a strip of adhesive foam to the door, but that would have ruined the aestetics. With a removable strip I can just use it when needed. I might go ahead and design, print the plug right away! I don't think it would make sense to deliver the SV08 all assembled, it would be a way too large box with a lot of empty space inside. Maybe if they'd just include the cable chain in the original setup and the chamber fan plug already prepared would speed up adding the panels. In fact I am going to propose this for Sovol. Those two steps were the most time consuming. Adding the panels and even the doors were a snap.
nice!! I don't understand the enclosure having the vertical top pieces with vented slots. Maybe I missed the mention of any printing effects? Will watch again; great vid!!
You mean the top-hat / raiser? As I understand this is an "open enclosure" which means it's not sealed, and they use the chamber fan to create a negative pressure inside to have those slots and the gaps around the panels suck the air in. If one is to seal the SV08, new top raisers would need to be designed.
I was tempted to order the enclosure, but not anymore. I think they should have spent a little more time to tweak the fitment. Plus, for the money, I think they could have included a top hat to match the bottom. PS: That is just a regular filter to keep dust & hair out of a computer (it won't touch styrene). You can buy sheets of carbon filter for cooker hoods, but it will kill airflow. You're probably better off installing scrubbers inside the enclosure.
@@gerGoPrint3D I suppose a Nevermore style filter? Or perhaps one can park one or two Ikea FÖRNUFTIG carbon filters inside the enclosure to soak up the chemicals. Those are 1.5 x 23 x 37 cm, perhaps they can just sit against the side panels?
Holy heck the gap on those front doors is pretty big! Its gonna make getting any decent chamber temps difficult. Even my crappy old Ender 6 has nice flush fitting doors.
I really appreciate the content you are making on this printer! It's one of the driving forces that is keeping me from cancelling my order. I ended up ordering my unit on launch day with the enclosure. My unit was delayed till mid June but I'm hoping that extra time helps work out some of the kinks, especially the issues some people are reporting over on Reddit and Discord of their nozzles falling out while printing PETG. Keep up the good work and I hope my experience with the SV08 is as good as yours seems to be.
Yes, I love this printer. All my printers, but this is the youngest in the "family" now 😊. Hang tight, you will get the printer, and hopefully it will even be better than this first batch with some teething problems... But there is nothing we cannot fix with a little love.
Good work. Thank you so much. I just received my SV08 today. The enclosure and LCD screen are still in transit and should be here any day. Your video will help my assembly a lot. Thank you.
Congrats! Also check my other SV08 videos. This should help you with the assembly: ua-cam.com/video/UY5Z7Qs8qKY/v-deo.html and this one with software setup: ua-cam.com/video/xt6uzXgRJdc/v-deo.html and this one with fine tuning filament profiles: ua-cam.com/video/LcRi2r1j7KE/v-deo.html
Closeups of the hinges are visible in the unboxing part of the video. Let me know what dimensions would you like to know. If you need I can take photos and measurements. Can post them in the community tab of this channel.
Very nice review,thank you! The filter does not seem to be very effective, it's very thin (so short life at least?) and the enclosure has so many gaps, especially with the raised top, that a lot of air will escape unfiltered. Nevertheless, it is still a nice enclosure !
Yes this is open enclosure by design. I don't really understand yet what would be the benefits of it being "open". Or is it just easier to make, and let the users deal with sealing?
The chamber fan doesn't provide much protection from the VOCs. Also the top hat having holes allows the VOCs and micro particles to escape. I'd rather see a carbon filter system like a 'Bento Box' or Nevermore. Another reason why I will be building a Voron 2.4 instead of buying the SV08.
@@ahandlethatisnottaken SV08 uses its volume very efficiently, but that means it doesn't have much space inside the chamber. I guess we could maybe fit a BB either in the very front just above the front doors (I am not sure how well it would work so high up) or on the outside of the enclosure with vent holes for it made on the side panels.
I'd like to see a before and after to test caulking the seams, putting some weatherstrip in the glass gap, and putting some dynamat on the sides. After sealing it, I bet it needs a config set to always run the back fan, but I'll bet it becomes a beast for nylon and ABS. A duct could be probably be fastened to the back, as well
IMO, Sovol should put fan holes on the back edges of both sides in addition to the back panel, then supply two blanking plates (or svgs) for the ones you don't use. I can see in my case where having the fan on the back would not be ideal, especially since I would also attach a vent hose to the outside. Also, some type of printable bracket to attach to the side wall for holding the top glass when not closing the top. There's no way I would not end up knocking one of those to the floor if it was just laying loose somewhere.
Thanks for the detailed video! I build my own enclosure and then I noticed that the extruder doesn't have enough space to print the whole Z height. I thought there is something wrong with my whole setup but then I saw your video and you had the same issue. I am really glad to see that it's not my issue but that it's just brilliant Sovol engineering (sarcasm) to design a printer and enclosure that don't work together and customer needs to print their own parts (top hat) to make it work properly. But at least it's not as boring as Bambu Lab printers that just work out of the box. LOL!
I think this is normal for regular enclosures to slightly limit z travel unless the top is touched. There are top hats for Creality, Qidi printers as well. You only need to print the raiser if you are planning to print tall things out of materials that actually need you to cover the top. Most filaments you can (and sometimes you actually should) unconver the top, then z is not limited.
Thank you for the video! If i remember right you say that the problem with the short cable for the drag chain might not be there in production units. But in earlier video you say that you have a production unit and not a review unit. Or did o get that wrong? By the way, the enclosure looks great but i am a bit dissapointed that the doorhandles and the drag chain mounts are 3D printed. For that price i had expected injection moulded parts
You are observant! Yes, I've always called this a "close to production unit". As I understand there were early beta testers and reviewers who received pre-production units. Then Sovol made a few hundred devices that were shipped to late-reviewers and a very few lucky customers. After talking with beta testers we found these units have some improvements over early test and review units (e.g. better inductive probe, flatter beds, double sided pei, no short pins in the gantry, better resonance values), but they are not part of the mass production with teething issues like the rattling z-motors. That's why I call it "close to production" or "early production".
@@gerGoPrint3D ah okay, thanks for clarification. Would be interesting If the cables are longer in units that are shipped right now. Is your enclosure kit also a reviewer or pre production unit? Seems a little unusual to the overall concept that the plastic parts are 3D printed. Btw. keep up the great work!👍
@@jomoin They don't really tell us whether it is pre-production or not. Yes, the fact that many parts are still 3D printed makes me think it is still a test kit. As I understand they were sent to a small number of testers and reviewers.
Nice video. The SV08 enclosure looks quite nice. However, the price is quite premium. As you say correctly, you might do an enclosure yourself for a much lower price. In my opinion, the doors are the main component hard to do yourself with a perfect look. The sides and back could be made easy out of plywood, old metal sheets or any other material you might have flying around. After the pandemic, a lot of acrilic sheets are disposed of, so you might even get some used ones for free... So I realy hope sovol might just sell the doorkit as an alternative to the full enclosure... However, I just found out I still have an acrylic panel kit for an Ikea Lack enclosure (version1, wihout MMU2/3). As I only build the version 2 enclosures, the just collected dust. They are about 1cm to smal to be used directly. But printing sort of 5 mm frame to use them for the SV08 might be a solution. One big downside of the door: They do not seem to be easaly unhinged. As you must open the door for printing PLA and TPU, the open doors are often in the way, esp if you place spoolholders beside the printer. So I realy prefer doors you can easy detach and reattach.
Absolutely! I have tested the Qidi Q1 Pro that is supposed to be more for beginners, but that printer fell apart after about 1 month of very light use. It kept clogging (I had to take it apart like 8 or 9 times) and now its hotend needs to be replaced. Maybe I got a lemon (in talks with Qidi right now), but nothing like this ever happened with any of my Sovols. The SV08 in particular has been a beast. And yes, maybe the standard Klipper Touchscreen will feel a little more intimidating, but that's only the first day or so, then you will find your way around in it, but the supposedly "simplified" UI's become limiting factors on day 3. The SV08 is the best printer in its category right now. And the large build volume is way undervalued, since it has a fixed bed, the large surface has no disadvantages, but lets you print bigger (or more!) things when you need them.
Thanks for the awesome video gergo. I'd be most interested in adapting this printer for large quality prints with some of the more difficult filaments like pa-cf. If you could include information about that in future videos I'd appreciate it! I admire your work ethic and diligence, great channel!
This is my very first enclosed printer, so I am learning / researching these things myself, but it sounds like something that would probably interest many in the community! Thank you for the suggestion!
Great video! After watching Nero3D's video on the SV08 at around the 3:30 mark, he mentioned that some wires could rub on the enclosure when it goes up and down. Have you seen any issues with the clearance?
Yes, I've seen that video of his, and was curious. That's why I said Sovol's design here was top notch. The side panels have plenty of clearance, and they even added those black tapes (I mention them multiple times) to further protect the camera cable. But because of the design of the side panel, they are not touching at all.
I am interested in printing the top risers. I have my printer and got my enclosure in the other day and have it all together. PLA has been great since day one but PETG has been giving me trouble since I started printing with it after I installed the enclosure. I have the temps mostly dialed in but still have a small issue with bed adhesion near corners. I have the bed temp at 75 but will try 80. Initially it was lower and parts would lift off and prints would fail. Do you have a PETG profile designed for the enclosure that you could share out? Thanks for the videos!
Surprising, but I haven't changed my PETG profile for the enclosure. Here are my key settings, they have been working great, I've printed another kg of PETG just last night: Flow: .95 Pressure advance: 0.032 Nozzle 240/235 Bed 75/75 MVS 15mm³/s No cooling for the first 3, full at 0, Fan Min 30%/8s Max 70%/4s retraction default. PETG sticks very well to PETG, I just wipe it with IPA before every print. What I've found with this printer is heat-soaking the bed for 15min before print is key! That's why I made that "Soak" menu command. With the enclosure closed and PETG it might be enough only to do 10 min after the bed reached 75C. G/L
@@gerGoPrint3D Thank you. I have mirrored those settings and made some additional changes to a few other non-related settings and my risers came out great. I used a dark grey that almost matches the enclosure panels. Ended up taking 2 days to complete all 4 segments.
great! Finally someone reviewing the enclosure. thanks! I´m sure I won´t be getting the enclosure if IO decide to get the printer.. I´d rather build my own and make it sealed for higher temperatures
Yes, this is "open" by design. But would not be hard to seal it. You can probably make an enclosure for quarter of the price, though I really love the look of this.
@@kevinbebensee6527 Good question. I have no experience with this. I see Weatherstripping or Foam Tape and Heat-Resistant Tape being mentioned. You could adhere tapes on the edges of the metal panels before fastening them on the printer, this way they would not interfere with the movement of the gantry. The top glasses already have a pretty tight seal, of course you would have to modify the design of the top hat, but it also seems like an easy task. You could also add some foam tape around the front doors to seal them. It would be interesting to see how the temperature management would improve.
@@kevinbebensee6527 I would go further and replace the aluminum panels by plastic ones. No my voron I used polycarbonate honeycomb panels all around and acrilyc for the doors and it works really well
Thank you SO much buddy! I'm installing my enclosure today - I got the klipper screen in the mail as well and have that installed too! Seems to be working!!
@@gerGoPrint3D So far, i've got the new chain cable in - but it seems it was a little too long - I had to take out a few links and the new part they gave that attaches to the cable chain and the base - isn't staying very well in the base - when I raise the gantry up to a higher position it seems to pull that part right out... I lengthened the cable chain by another link so it all fits - but still having the same issue.
btw I'm slowly going through each section of your video - so I haven't made it to the end yet to see if you ran into this too.. so my comment may be a bit premature
@@gerGoPrint3D oooo... I see it - I think I can stuff the umbilical cable further back - meaning - from the top of the gantry - where it goes to the print head.. I have some leeway there..:D I took the bottom cover off and there is no extra ubilical cord under the machine - it's got to be longer to the print head so I think I have adjustment that way and will be able to put the links back in my cable.
The enclosure or the printer? This seems like a pre-production version with many 3D-printed components, shipped directly from Shenzhen, China. I don't have any insider information about shipping dates from regional warehouses.
Hi, thank you so much for your video. I am looking to get my 1st 3d printer. In order of importance, I want a printer that has: Large build volume Print Quality Print speed I would have gone with a Bambu P1S or X1C, but the build volume seems a bit small. I also looked briefly at the new FLSUN S1, but it seems its print quality leave a lot to be desired. In your experience, would you say the SV08's print quality is on par with Bambu P1S/X1C? Having an AMS would have been cool, but if I have to choose between AMS vs build volume, I would choose build volume I guess.
I have no experience with the Bambu, they are said to be the best. They are much more expensive though. If you have the money go with the Bambu, if you are willing to invest time and effort the SV08 can produce similar quality but not out of the box. Also SV08 doesn't (yet) have an official MMU / AMS, but there are options
What do i have to do with the 3m tapes ? Where do they belong. You do not mention them in the video nor sovol in the manual. Thank you for your help and wonderful vidoes. They are awesome.
I stuck them on the edges of both parts of the glass top, facing the frame. This prevents rattling and makes it smoother to slide the front part over the back.
@@gerGoPrint3D OK that is a great Idea. Thank you very much. You are so great. I solved my Z-Offset with Nadirs Help. I installed the Klicky Mod. Took me 4 weeks but now it is working finally. Your Makros are ver great !! Love your Work ind Videos
Everything looks awesome. Thank you for these videos. If only Sovol's customer service was as good as your videos, then we wouldn't have to keep going back to the website to see what the new shipping date will be every time they miss their own deadline. Would it kill them to send out an email updating the early buyers about changes in shipping dates? If this was a start-up, if there wasn't an SV01 thru SV07 in existence, I probably would have cancelled my order by now. I still haven't completely ruled out cancelling the order. If their customer service can't even keep their customers whose money they've had since late April-early May updated as to when they are going to get the unit they already paid for, how are they going to handle any real customer service issues? This concludes my "where's my printer?" whining rant, lol.
I wish the best for this little company. They do bigger things than they actually are. Thank you for your patience with them. Yes, there is much they will have to improve in communications.
@@gerGoPrint3D I'm scheduled to receive three packages from Sovol tomorrow (July 17), two via ups and on via USPS. I'm guessing the two coming via ups will be the printer and enclosure and the package coming through the mail would be the touch screen. Fingers crossed, lol. Interested to see how much it differs from the pre-production and early production models. Thanks again for all the great content regarding these machines.
@@gerGoPrint3D The printer and enclosure arrived the other day, the printer has been assembled, calibrated, and a few test prints have ran with no issue. It took a bit to get the gantry bolted in and I always have trouble plugging in small connectors, clumsy fingers and fading eye sight, lol, other than that the assembly went well. A couple odd clunking noises when the gantry first moved, but none since. Touch screen will be arriving by mail today. I'm holding off on installing the enclosure because I've got a ton of PLA+ on hand and I'd like to come up with some sort of quick disconnect for the left panel to further open the printer for PLA printing. I was thinking you could just swap the left and rear panels and use a longer extension for the wires if necessary, but the recess for the side panels appear to be about 9.5mm-10mm wider than the rear, which is odd considering we're dealing with a cube. I've also got a roll of PET-G coming today to print the top riser. Thanks again for your awesome and informative videos, and thank you for your responses as well.
Possible, but no easy way. You'll have to find a way to re-route the filament runout sensor cable, and drill new holes on the other side. You'll also need a longer cable :(
Hi, we are looking into getting some SV08 machines, but we use PETG exclusively. I've heard of issues with the nozzle detatching while printing PETG. Did you have any problems?
No issues with PETG or the Nozzle. I saw a notice from Sovol that promises instant replacements if anything like this happens: "We have received feedback on the SV08 nozzle PETG issue lately. Although it's a small number of total orders, the company takes it very seriously. We already had hundreds of hours of testing before mass production before April, and because of the latest situation, we set up the test again. We want to assure you that the problem is not related to the design but to our nozzle supplier's quality manufacturing and control. We are committed to maintaining consistent and strict standards to meet Sovol's requirements. For customers who have already encountered problems, we will reissue the nozzle for free; if the build plate gets scratched, we will also reissue the build plate for free. Some customers have already been reissued but have not received the updated tracking because we are rechecking the nozzle with our supplier. We checked it last week, and the order will proceed this week assume. We sincerely appreciate all the support from our customers and the Sovol community. Your support is invaluable to us, and we are committed to improving based on your feedback." I've printed a lot of PETG (much in this very video) and never had any problems. I think it affects a small number of devices, I would not be concerned about it. Especially if you order now, the printer being so popular the unit you get will be several generations beyond any batch with such issues.
Just a note... you mentioned adding the "v412ctl:backlight_compenstation=0" line to the config... it is actual v4L2ctl ... L, not 1... as it Video4Linux version 2 :)
Hi there! I do appreciate the huge work of video editing behind this post. The layout (left hand) reflects its content. Cool. It would be cooler if you have drawn some kind of slider effect on those icon... Anyway, it's a great post even if seems weird to dedicate a post for an enclosure. Sovol SV08 IMHO deserves that enclosure. Thanks a lot for your work!
Thank you for the feedback on the progress graphics. Can you please elaborate on the proposed slider effect? I am testing all kinds of graphics, there were many reasons for the current one, and I am always looking to improve. I thought along one of the vertical edges would work better because vertical space is more valuable in landscape videos. I agree the way the icons fly across my face might be a bit strange, but I needed a way to highlight which part of the video you will find the answers to the questions I proposed in the intro. Thank you for helping with this!
As for dedicating a video to an enclosure: I doubt many other channels would do this, though many potential users will be considering whether to invest in the official or build their own. Even if building their own, I assume a video like this could be helpful to show every detail of the original. Also, this being my first enclosed 3D printer, I just present my own fascination and "adventures" with this exciting hobby, and take the viewers along :)
@@joetkeshub That would be nice if UA-cam allowed click handling, but of course they don't... To navigate we can use the standard bottom seekbar (or the table of contents with the time-codes in the description of the video).
@@gerGoPrint3D Unfortunately despite my IT background, I don't know how to help you on this point. As I said earlier, your progress graphics is gorgeous and informative as well even if one can't click on them to navigate your paragraphs. That should be possible using some youtube API I guess.
I might be testing the Q1 Pro soon, I plan to compare to SV08. I'll have to experience Qidi to be able to tell, but with the size of the Max it's one less advantage going for the Sovol. Specs-wise it's surely the Qidi, but from videos and pictures they feel cheaper,,, SV08 shows higher quality, more metal and glass, also linear rails instead of rods, but I'll really have to experience both to be able to give a hands on.
@gerGOPrint3d did you have to manually configure the exhaust fan to PA2 in config? I just set mine up last night and the fans look to be setup incorrectly in the stock config. The daughter board diagram from the sovol github have me confused ??? HELP!!! lol TIA
I haven't adjusted the pin config. The fan seemed to work from the Mainsail interface. Only the ABS preset in Orca has it turn on, to create some negative pressure inside so the smell wouldn't come out on the gaps around the panels.
At no point anywhere does Sovol provide the fan size for the exhaust fan so one can plan ahead (their site, the github, installation video) .. it's been very frustrating. I based an improved filter enclosure design solely on your video description and caption of 8025.. After I received the kit I am sorry to say I've discovered this was incorrect; It's actually a 9025. I will have to adjust and reprint my design.
That's a bummer. Have you made a backup before updating? ua-cam.com/video/PrC8zaVCHys/v-deo.html If not, you can get the disk image from the wiki on Sovol's website and write it on your EMMC (as explained in the linked video). Your settings and gcode files will be lost, but you should be back in your machine in no time.
@@gerGoPrint3D System Booting forever FIX. ....* Action Taking Format a USB drive as FAT 32 Copy the Firmware onto that drive, I already was using the Firmware 2.3.3, but I did this anyway. With the SOVOL SV08 turned OFF! Placed the USB drive with ONLY the Firmware on it in to the SOVOL SV08 USB port. Turned on the SOVOL SV08 after about 20 to a minute seconds it said “ready” on the display the SOVOL SV08 was useable again. Remover the USB drive from the 3D Printer.. Normally your asked to place the USB drive with the firmware on into the 3D Printer while the Ready display is shown but that is not possible because the Ready message is not displayed only System rebooting message until these actions are taken. This reset all the defaults: so any changes like your config files will need changing back to how you like them, etc... This may give you a new IP address. I carried out a quick 3D Print this was OK, the Z Probe height way off so I asked for Calibrate Zoffset from the Display It completed this test then reboot OK no issues it went to the Ready display message likewise Bed Mesh, etc... after each reboot, it when to the Ready message. Each reboot has not got stuck in the System Rebooting message, it contuse to the Ready message I carried out a small test 3D Print and it worked as expected this with the Z offset set by the 3D Printer
They are in different price categories. For a 2-4 thousand dollar printer all accessories match the base price. Still I hear their enclosure is an afterthought and a pain to assemble.
Thank you for the feedback! I thought it would be helpful to show the structure and progress of a longish video. Some might be interested mostly in the tests, others the content of the box or the assembly process before they themselves build it. A progress bar like this could help navigate the content. 60% of my viewers are not native English speakers, I went with the addage a picture worth a 1000 words (besides there would be no room for words there). And I moved the progress bar on the side, because on 16:9 videos I feel controls, seekbar and subtitles already use up too much of the vertical space. If you watch my videos, I am experimenting all kinds of visualization styles, yours is the very first comment on this, thank you for it!!!
Depends on what you are printing mostly. If it's ABS/ASA or other sensitive materials this is the minimum (you might want to seal it too), if it's PETG, this is beneficial, if all you plan to print is PLA, yeah, don't bother. And btw, this is a very quick upgrade EXCEPT for the cable chain. The fan and panels could be added in 20 minutes. I wasted so much time because of the trouble with my cable chain (and also of course multi-camera, lighting, and documenting the process. But that's on me).
I appreciate your extra effort in working through this step at a time. Someone at Sovol is surely typing very quickly, taking notes based on your observations. If it were my company, I would be. This will probably be my next printer...after the bugs are flogged out of it, either by Sovol, or by enthusiasts like you. Thank you.
Yes, I have already signalled these issues in the beta tester group and the Sovol team is very appreciative! I can see they do everything in their power to sort out any issues. This is a daunting job!
@gerGoPrint3D did they ever sort out the cable chain length issues?
Also, another note... I bought the enclosure about 4 months after this video was published, and the top mount for the cable chain has been updated. There is now a longer arm after the bolt, allowing it to attach farther for the right. Mine snapped about 5 seconds into the install, due to the way the printed it... it the layers are in-line with the downward pull of the chain (due to gravity), which does not make for a very strong print. I'm printing out someone else's updated model now, and making sure it is oriented for strength!
Haha, it's mind-boggling how bad they are at 3D printing machine parts, especially for a company that makes 3D printers. I considered designing a modified bracket, but that was only after I drilled the hole-so I just ended up using it as it was. The enclosure (and the drag chain) have held up, though; they've been chugging along for nearly half a year now
Got my enclosure kit today (AUS). The 3d printed bottom drag chain mount broke the first time I clicked it in 😂 I’ve had to take a break from trying to fit the tool head cable and drag chain while also maintaining the advertised max gantry height, the cable just isn’t long enough really. Re-watching your video several times has helped reassure me that I’m not completely bonkers, thanks! ❤
Yes, that cable chain is kind of the Achilles' heel of this upgrade. It can even be skipped, in my opinion, if someone is not inclined to drill extra holes and wrestle with the thing. My bottom cover piece also broke, but it still holds up. Actually, now that I have it installed, it works perfectly fine; it hasn't limited the movement or caused extra strain on the cable. However, that part needs a major overhaul from Sovol!
The drag chain wasn’t fitting correctly when I was building it. I contacted Sovol and they gave me a new joint to print and it works! Hope this helps
So the drag chain was just not long enough? Or you mean they have a modified gantry connection part now available?
My enclosure finally arrived; I removed the 'tape' from the sleeve and pulled the 1" of Y axes wire allowing everything to fit, kind of, the Y axes wire is tight, I built a 2" jumper. Seems Sovol left one instruction out: After you screw the 3 screws into the drag chain mount you must unhook the first segment of the drag chain before routing the wire harness otherwise the wires (camera, Y,X axes) are way too short. 6 pin PH 2mm male and female connector plus IWS-3220 crimp tool and EMBLA Pressmaster wire strippers: UPDATE
I removed the 6 pin 2.0mm PH jumper I made, built a 4 pin XH male to female jumper and plugged it into the controller after I fought the crap hot glue to get the Y axes cable out. I cut the cable sleave open on both ends to enable pulling the extra Y axes cable and extra USB cable to move the connector out of the drag chain. Now it looks clean on the top and the drag chain works as it should after I replaced the original chain mount on the bottom with the updated one from Sovol. Note, the PH and XH connectors have male connectors as separate kits from the connector female kits, just more ways to spend money.
Valuable notes! Thank you!
Thank you for this view of the SV08 enclosure. I wondered why the enclosure is a US$170 add-on at the Sovol site. Given the materials, it's very nice. I print a lot of TPU so I need to remove the top and direct feed the TPU from a bearing hub reel holder above the the printer, directly into the extruder. It would be nice if Sovol designed the two top halves to fold in half and snap into a vertical position in the back rather than needing to remove glass panels and not break them. Maybe the rider can be designed to have slots for vertically storing the two pieces of top glass. The same is true of the doors. Keeping the doors open when printing PLA is a good way to break them. Rather than heat soaking the bed to passively heat the chamber before printing ABS, I'd probably be inclined to add a small thermostatically controlled chamber heater with a temperature display, which would also result in more uniform results regardless of ambient air temperature.
Yes, it’s definitely high-quality! Considering the materials and design-and seeing what Prusa and others are offering in the enclosure space-the $170 price tag isn’t all that surprising. Add-ons like these are often positioned as premium upgrades, similar to how car manufacturers offer features like leather seats or panoramic roofs for those wanting more specialized setups.
With the recent temperature drop since the video, I’ve found that sliding just the front half of the top glass over the back keeps half of it open, and that’s been enough for PLA prints to come out just right at cooler ambient temps. You may have also seen my previous video with the door prop I designed, which holds the doors open-a handy fix, though I share the same worry about bumping them when they’re open.
For ABS printing, I’ve actually been using the Qidi Tech Q1 Pro’s heated chamber along with the inline vent from my CO2 laser (see ua-cam.com/video/WDmKNF9fk7g/v-deo.html from 6:47), which has turned into my go-to solution for maintaining a stable environment and venting effectively. But if the SV08 were my only enclosed printer, I’d definitely look into adding chamber heating and upgrading the vent system too.
To move the fan to the side, just make a 1" thick chamber that connects to the fan slot and extends to the side, then turn the fan 90 deg and connect it to the chamber. You wan't need to cut any holes. You may just need an extension cable for the fan. I don't have a SV08, but on my printer I made a connector to connect the fan to CPAP hose, and created a window box 4" tall with a number of cpap connectors. That way I can run hoses from several printers and the air goes out the window.
Thank you! Yes, I think I will do something like this. Problem is I don't even have an inch behind the printer currently, my printers will need to be moved around a bit... I will sure make a video about the eventual solution!
@@gerGoPrint3D Or maybe even easier: If you're going to redesign the raised top; close all the holes that are in there now and make only one on one if the sides which mounts a fan.. You could make 'funnel' like adapter piece for a regular fan like the one which is installed now, but a radial fan will fit probably better.
(however, you want it to exhaust the fumes, so you would need to power the fan in reverse making it less efficient of course but as an exhaust fan it does not have to perform)
Here in the U.S. , You can get a material called Dynamat, which is a very dense thin material used for sound dampening in cars and other areas. I plan on, when i finally get my svo8 , to add a 12 x 12 inch sheet or more to each panel to add sound proofing and help retain heat when needed as there is some with a Foil back.
That will keep heat in much much better!
They really should offer a finished version with the enclosure already installed.
I would print a TPU strip to close that gap between the 2 front doors. ABS is much stronger if printed in a 50-60c environment.
I did not know chamber temp affected ABS strength, makes perfect sense though. I like the idea of a removable TPU strip, originally I was thinking of just adding a strip of adhesive foam to the door, but that would have ruined the aestetics. With a removable strip I can just use it when needed. I might go ahead and design, print the plug right away! I don't think it would make sense to deliver the SV08 all assembled, it would be a way too large box with a lot of empty space inside. Maybe if they'd just include the cable chain in the original setup and the chamber fan plug already prepared would speed up adding the panels. In fact I am going to propose this for Sovol. Those two steps were the most time consuming. Adding the panels and even the doors were a snap.
nice!! I don't understand the enclosure having the vertical top pieces with vented slots. Maybe I missed the mention of any printing effects? Will watch again; great vid!!
You mean the top-hat / raiser? As I understand this is an "open enclosure" which means it's not sealed, and they use the chamber fan to create a negative pressure inside to have those slots and the gaps around the panels suck the air in. If one is to seal the SV08, new top raisers would need to be designed.
@@gerGoPrint3D copy that!! Thank you!!
I was tempted to order the enclosure, but not anymore. I think they should have spent a little more time to tweak the fitment. Plus, for the money, I think they could have included a top hat to match the bottom.
PS: That is just a regular filter to keep dust & hair out of a computer (it won't touch styrene). You can buy sheets of carbon filter for cooker hoods, but it will kill airflow. You're probably better off installing scrubbers inside the enclosure.
Thank you for the warning, I am indeed a bit weary of the styrene... Would you elaborate on the tip about the scrubbers? What do you mean?
@@gerGoPrint3D I suppose a Nevermore style filter? Or perhaps one can park one or two Ikea FÖRNUFTIG carbon filters inside the enclosure to soak up the chemicals. Those are 1.5 x 23 x 37 cm, perhaps they can just sit against the side panels?
I ordered mine with an enclosure but still waiting on it shipping. Thanks for this video So i know what to expect !!
The panels should also add rigidity. As for the fan. Could you instead add a couple smaller fans to the top printed part you added?
Very true! I missed that in my video. Thank you for adding
Holy heck the gap on those front doors is pretty big! Its gonna make getting any decent chamber temps difficult.
Even my crappy old Ender 6 has nice flush fitting doors.
It seems fairly easy to seal though
I really appreciate the content you are making on this printer! It's one of the driving forces that is keeping me from cancelling my order. I ended up ordering my unit on launch day with the enclosure. My unit was delayed till mid June but I'm hoping that extra time helps work out some of the kinks, especially the issues some people are reporting over on Reddit and Discord of their nozzles falling out while printing PETG.
Keep up the good work and I hope my experience with the SV08 is as good as yours seems to be.
Yes, I love this printer. All my printers, but this is the youngest in the "family" now 😊. Hang tight, you will get the printer, and hopefully it will even be better than this first batch with some teething problems... But there is nothing we cannot fix with a little love.
Good work. Thank you so much. I just received my SV08 today. The enclosure and LCD screen are still in transit and should be here any day. Your video will help my assembly a lot. Thank you.
Congrats! Also check my other SV08 videos. This should help you with the assembly: ua-cam.com/video/UY5Z7Qs8qKY/v-deo.html and this one with software setup: ua-cam.com/video/xt6uzXgRJdc/v-deo.html and this one with fine tuning filament profiles: ua-cam.com/video/LcRi2r1j7KE/v-deo.html
Thanks for the VERY instructional video, Great! The folding table you have the printer is gorgeous.
Thank you. Inherited it from my grandparents! They would have never thought the whole world will be seeing it 😂
Can you provide some detailed pictures and specs of the hinges Sovol is using for the SV08?
Closeups of the hinges are visible in the unboxing part of the video. Let me know what dimensions would you like to know. If you need I can take photos and measurements. Can post them in the community tab of this channel.
Very nice review,thank you!
The filter does not seem to be very effective, it's very thin (so short life at least?) and the enclosure has so many gaps, especially with the raised top, that a lot of air will escape unfiltered.
Nevertheless, it is still a nice enclosure !
Yes this is open enclosure by design. I don't really understand yet what would be the benefits of it being "open". Or is it just easier to make, and let the users deal with sealing?
The chamber fan doesn't provide much protection from the VOCs. Also the top hat having holes allows the VOCs and micro particles to escape. I'd rather see a carbon filter system like a 'Bento Box' or Nevermore. Another reason why I will be building a Voron 2.4 instead of buying the SV08.
Thank you! Very important information, I highly appreciate it, as I am new to enclosures and ABS printing.
Couldn't you install a Bentobox in an SV08?
@@ahandlethatisnottaken SV08 uses its volume very efficiently, but that means it doesn't have much space inside the chamber. I guess we could maybe fit a BB either in the very front just above the front doors (I am not sure how well it would work so high up) or on the outside of the enclosure with vent holes for it made on the side panels.
There is an top extension that is solid with a side fan that uses a carbon filter
I'd like to see a before and after to test caulking the seams, putting some weatherstrip in the glass gap, and putting some dynamat on the sides. After sealing it, I bet it needs a config set to always run the back fan, but I'll bet it becomes a beast for nylon and ABS. A duct could be probably be fastened to the back, as well
IMO, Sovol should put fan holes on the back edges of both sides in addition to the back panel, then supply two blanking plates (or svgs) for the ones you don't use. I can see in my case where having the fan on the back would not be ideal, especially since I would also attach a vent hose to the outside.
Also, some type of printable bracket to attach to the side wall for holding the top glass when not closing the top. There's no way I would not end up knocking one of those to the floor if it was just laying loose somewhere.
That would be so much more versatile.
Thanks for the detailed video! I build my own enclosure and then I noticed that the extruder doesn't have enough space to print the whole Z height. I thought there is something wrong with my whole setup but then I saw your video and you had the same issue. I am really glad to see that it's not my issue but that it's just brilliant Sovol engineering (sarcasm) to design a printer and enclosure that don't work together and customer needs to print their own parts (top hat) to make it work properly. But at least it's not as boring as Bambu Lab printers that just work out of the box. LOL!
I think this is normal for regular enclosures to slightly limit z travel unless the top is touched. There are top hats for Creality, Qidi printers as well. You only need to print the raiser if you are planning to print tall things out of materials that actually need you to cover the top. Most filaments you can (and sometimes you actually should) unconver the top, then z is not limited.
Thank you for the video! If i remember right you say that the problem with the short cable for the drag chain might not be there in production units. But in earlier video you say that you have a production unit and not a review unit. Or did o get that wrong?
By the way, the enclosure looks great but i am a bit dissapointed that the doorhandles and the drag chain mounts are 3D printed. For that price i had expected injection moulded parts
You are observant! Yes, I've always called this a "close to production unit". As I understand there were early beta testers and reviewers who received pre-production units. Then Sovol made a few hundred devices that were shipped to late-reviewers and a very few lucky customers. After talking with beta testers we found these units have some improvements over early test and review units (e.g. better inductive probe, flatter beds, double sided pei, no short pins in the gantry, better resonance values), but they are not part of the mass production with teething issues like the rattling z-motors. That's why I call it "close to production" or "early production".
@@gerGoPrint3D ah okay, thanks for clarification. Would be interesting If the cables are longer in units that are shipped right now. Is your enclosure kit also a reviewer or pre production unit? Seems a little unusual to the overall concept that the plastic parts are 3D printed.
Btw. keep up the great work!👍
@@jomoin They don't really tell us whether it is pre-production or not. Yes, the fact that many parts are still 3D printed makes me think it is still a test kit. As I understand they were sent to a small number of testers and reviewers.
Nice video. The SV08 enclosure looks quite nice.
However, the price is quite premium. As you say correctly, you might do an enclosure yourself for a much lower price.
In my opinion, the doors are the main component hard to do yourself with a perfect look. The sides and back could be made easy out of plywood, old metal sheets or any other material you might have flying around. After the pandemic, a lot of acrilic sheets are disposed of, so you might even get some used ones for free...
So I realy hope sovol might just sell the doorkit as an alternative to the full enclosure...
However, I just found out I still have an acrylic panel kit for an Ikea Lack enclosure (version1, wihout MMU2/3). As I only build the version 2 enclosures, the just collected dust. They are about 1cm to smal to be used directly. But printing sort of 5 mm frame to use them for the SV08 might be a solution.
One big downside of the door: They do not seem to be easaly unhinged. As you must open the door for printing PLA and TPU, the open doors are often in the way, esp if you place spoolholders beside the printer. So I realy prefer doors you can easy detach and reattach.
Detachable doors might even be better, as it is a hassle to keep them open when printing PLA
Honestly sir, for someone who isn't a pro with 3d printers, can you recommend the SV08 to them?
Absolutely! I have tested the Qidi Q1 Pro that is supposed to be more for beginners, but that printer fell apart after about 1 month of very light use. It kept clogging (I had to take it apart like 8 or 9 times) and now its hotend needs to be replaced. Maybe I got a lemon (in talks with Qidi right now), but nothing like this ever happened with any of my Sovols. The SV08 in particular has been a beast. And yes, maybe the standard Klipper Touchscreen will feel a little more intimidating, but that's only the first day or so, then you will find your way around in it, but the supposedly "simplified" UI's become limiting factors on day 3. The SV08 is the best printer in its category right now. And the large build volume is way undervalued, since it has a fixed bed, the large surface has no disadvantages, but lets you print bigger (or more!) things when you need them.
Thanks for the awesome video gergo. I'd be most interested in adapting this printer for large quality prints with some of the more difficult filaments like pa-cf. If you could include information about that in future videos I'd appreciate it! I admire your work ethic and diligence, great channel!
This is my very first enclosed printer, so I am learning / researching these things myself, but it sounds like something that would probably interest many in the community! Thank you for the suggestion!
Great video! After watching Nero3D's video on the SV08 at around the 3:30 mark, he mentioned that some wires could rub on the enclosure when it goes up and down. Have you seen any issues with the clearance?
Yes, I've seen that video of his, and was curious. That's why I said Sovol's design here was top notch. The side panels have plenty of clearance, and they even added those black tapes (I mention them multiple times) to further protect the camera cable. But because of the design of the side panel, they are not touching at all.
@gerGoPrint3D Awesome thanks!
Oh no 😅 my cable is to short too. Let’s get the drill I guess
I am interested in printing the top risers. I have my printer and got my enclosure in the other day and have it all together. PLA has been great since day one but PETG has been giving me trouble since I started printing with it after I installed the enclosure. I have the temps mostly dialed in but still have a small issue with bed adhesion near corners. I have the bed temp at 75 but will try 80. Initially it was lower and parts would lift off and prints would fail. Do you have a PETG profile designed for the enclosure that you could share out? Thanks for the videos!
Surprising, but I haven't changed my PETG profile for the enclosure. Here are my key settings, they have been working great, I've printed another kg of PETG just last night:
Flow: .95 Pressure advance: 0.032 Nozzle 240/235 Bed 75/75 MVS 15mm³/s No cooling for the first 3, full at 0, Fan Min 30%/8s Max 70%/4s retraction default. PETG sticks very well to PETG, I just wipe it with IPA before every print. What I've found with this printer is heat-soaking the bed for 15min before print is key! That's why I made that "Soak" menu command. With the enclosure closed and PETG it might be enough only to do 10 min after the bed reached 75C. G/L
@@gerGoPrint3D Thank you. I have mirrored those settings and made some additional changes to a few other non-related settings and my risers came out great. I used a dark grey that almost matches the enclosure panels. Ended up taking 2 days to complete all 4 segments.
Can you give us the specs on that rear fan? Also, how big are those bottom cutouts on the rear panel?
It's an 24V / 8025. I am not sure if RPM and such info is on it, but I will do my best to find out.
Got mine yesterday, same problem with cable chain
Yeah, it's a pain
great! Finally someone reviewing the enclosure. thanks! I´m sure I won´t be getting the enclosure if IO decide to get the printer.. I´d rather build my own and make it sealed for higher temperatures
Yes, this is "open" by design. But would not be hard to seal it. You can probably make an enclosure for quarter of the price, though I really love the look of this.
@@gerGoPrint3D What would you use to seal this printer? thx for this great video :)
@@kevinbebensee6527 Good question. I have no experience with this. I see Weatherstripping or Foam Tape and Heat-Resistant Tape being mentioned. You could adhere tapes on the edges of the metal panels before fastening them on the printer, this way they would not interfere with the movement of the gantry. The top glasses already have a pretty tight seal, of course you would have to modify the design of the top hat, but it also seems like an easy task. You could also add some foam tape around the front doors to seal them. It would be interesting to see how the temperature management would improve.
@@kevinbebensee6527 I would go further and replace the aluminum panels by plastic ones. No my voron I used polycarbonate honeycomb panels all around and acrilyc for the doors and it works really well
Thank you SO much buddy! I'm installing my enclosure today - I got the klipper screen in the mail as well and have that installed too! Seems to be working!!
Big congrats! Tell us how the install goes!
@@gerGoPrint3D So far, i've got the new chain cable in - but it seems it was a little too long - I had to take out a few links and the new part they gave that attaches to the cable chain and the base - isn't staying very well in the base - when I raise the gantry up to a higher position it seems to pull that part right out... I lengthened the cable chain by another link so it all fits - but still having the same issue.
btw I'm slowly going through each section of your video - so I haven't made it to the end yet to see if you ran into this too.. so my comment may be a bit premature
@@gerGoPrint3D oooo... I see it - I think I can stuff the umbilical cable further back - meaning - from the top of the gantry - where it goes to the print head.. I have some leeway there..:D I took the bottom cover off and there is no extra ubilical cord under the machine - it's got to be longer to the print head so I think I have adjustment that way and will be able to put the links back in my cable.
@@olevermontplowboys5574 Then the motor cables won't be long enough. At least they weren't for me. I am still curious, what I might have done wrong.
Great job, I am waiting on mine getting here. They say in July??
The enclosure or the printer? This seems like a pre-production version with many 3D-printed components, shipped directly from Shenzhen, China. I don't have any insider information about shipping dates from regional warehouses.
@@gerGoPrint3D sorry I mean the SV08 thanks great job!
Hi, thank you so much for your video.
I am looking to get my 1st 3d printer.
In order of importance, I want a printer that has:
Large build volume
Print Quality
Print speed
I would have gone with a Bambu P1S or X1C, but the build volume seems a bit small.
I also looked briefly at the new FLSUN S1, but it seems its print quality leave a lot to be desired.
In your experience, would you say the SV08's print quality is on par with Bambu P1S/X1C?
Having an AMS would have been cool, but if I have to choose between AMS vs build volume, I would choose build volume I guess.
I have no experience with the Bambu, they are said to be the best. They are much more expensive though. If you have the money go with the Bambu, if you are willing to invest time and effort the SV08 can produce similar quality but not out of the box. Also SV08 doesn't (yet) have an official MMU / AMS, but there are options
I think we need a height of about 120mm, yes 120mm to allow for full height without the Bowden tube and cables touching the top
The official raiser (files linked in the description) is sufficient for reaching the height of 347mm without the tube / cables touching the glass top.
@@gerGoPrint3D Hope so THANKING YOU 2000%
What do i have to do with the 3m tapes ? Where do they belong. You do not mention them in the video nor sovol in the manual. Thank you for your help and wonderful vidoes. They are awesome.
I stuck them on the edges of both parts of the glass top, facing the frame. This prevents rattling and makes it smoother to slide the front part over the back.
@@gerGoPrint3D OK that is a great Idea. Thank you very much. You are so great. I solved my Z-Offset with Nadirs Help. I installed the Klicky Mod. Took me 4 weeks but now it is working finally. Your Makros are ver great !! Love your Work ind Videos
Everything looks awesome. Thank you for these videos. If only Sovol's customer service was as good as your videos, then we wouldn't have to keep going back to the website to see what the new shipping date will be every time they miss their own deadline. Would it kill them to send out an email updating the early buyers about changes in shipping dates? If this was a start-up, if there wasn't an SV01 thru SV07 in existence, I probably would have cancelled my order by now. I still haven't completely ruled out cancelling the order. If their customer service can't even keep their customers whose money they've had since late April-early May updated as to when they are going to get the unit they already paid for, how are they going to handle any real customer service issues? This concludes my "where's my printer?" whining rant, lol.
I wish the best for this little company. They do bigger things than they actually are. Thank you for your patience with them. Yes, there is much they will have to improve in communications.
@@gerGoPrint3D Thank you for your reply. I'm going to wait it out. The fact that they have machines on the market reassures me.
@@gerGoPrint3D I'm scheduled to receive three packages from Sovol tomorrow (July 17), two via ups and on via USPS. I'm guessing the two coming via ups will be the printer and enclosure and the package coming through the mail would be the touch screen. Fingers crossed, lol. Interested to see how much it differs from the pre-production and early production models. Thanks again for all the great content regarding these machines.
@@yertelt5570 Nice! It seems you are getting the whole setup! Busy days ahead of you ;)
@@gerGoPrint3D The printer and enclosure arrived the other day, the printer has been assembled, calibrated, and a few test prints have ran with no issue. It took a bit to get the gantry bolted in and I always have trouble plugging in small connectors, clumsy fingers and fading eye sight, lol, other than that the assembly went well. A couple odd clunking noises when the gantry first moved, but none since. Touch screen will be arriving by mail today. I'm holding off on installing the enclosure because I've got a ton of PLA+ on hand and I'd like to come up with some sort of quick disconnect for the left panel to further open the printer for PLA printing. I was thinking you could just swap the left and rear panels and use a longer extension for the wires if necessary, but the recess for the side panels appear to be about 9.5mm-10mm wider than the rear, which is odd considering we're dealing with a cube. I've also got a roll of PET-G coming today to print the top riser. Thanks again for your awesome and informative videos, and thank you for your responses as well.
Great Looking enclosure, Great video. I will share on my Facebook group. Waiting for my SV08 to ship the end of July.
Thank you for all your support! I hope you get your printer soon! It will even be better than mine :)
I still haven't received my shipping info , damn
You will get it! It is well worth the wait! Later batches will even be better. Hang on!
Is the cable chain too long and need to be reduced? Mine seem to be too long.
It's just long enough for the max z height to reach. The umbilical cable seems to be too short for the default mounting point on the gantry.
is there any way to move the spool holder and runout to the other side of the printer ?
Possible, but no easy way. You'll have to find a way to re-route the filament runout sensor cable, and drill new holes on the other side. You'll also need a longer cable :(
@@gerGoPrint3D spare cables i have i should have my sv08 on the 25th of this month so will have a look at it
I wanted to thank you for your reply, but apparently replying to comments is dead at the moment. Thanks for the fan info!
Is there a worldwide issue with the comment system?
Hi, we are looking into getting some SV08 machines, but we use PETG exclusively. I've heard of issues with the nozzle detatching while printing PETG. Did you have any problems?
No issues with PETG or the Nozzle. I saw a notice from Sovol that promises instant replacements if anything like this happens:
"We have received feedback on the SV08 nozzle PETG issue lately. Although it's a small number of total orders, the company takes it very seriously. We already had hundreds of hours of testing before mass production before April, and because of the latest situation, we set up the test again. We want to assure you that the problem is not related to the design but to our nozzle supplier's quality manufacturing and control. We are committed to maintaining consistent and strict standards to meet Sovol's requirements. For customers who have already encountered problems, we will reissue the nozzle for free; if the build plate gets scratched, we will also reissue the build plate for free. Some customers have already been reissued but have not received the updated tracking because we are rechecking the nozzle with our supplier. We checked it last week, and the order will proceed this week assume. We sincerely appreciate all the support from our customers and the Sovol community. Your support is invaluable to us, and we are committed to improving based on your feedback."
I've printed a lot of PETG (much in this very video) and never had any problems. I think it affects a small number of devices, I would not be concerned about it. Especially if you order now, the printer being so popular the unit you get will be several generations beyond any batch with such issues.
@@gerGoPrint3D I appreciate it, Thank you!
Hi! I remixed your files to not have any holes just to not have any holes. Would it be okay to post these on Printables? With credit of course.
Those are Sovol's own design. I am not sure of its license status. Let me ask.
Just a note... you mentioned adding the "v412ctl:backlight_compenstation=0" line to the config... it is actual v4L2ctl ... L, not 1... as it Video4Linux version 2 :)
Yes, I messed that up 🙄Thanks for the correction 🥰
Hi there! I do appreciate the huge work of video editing behind this post. The layout (left hand) reflects its content. Cool. It would be cooler if you have drawn some kind of slider effect on those icon... Anyway, it's a great post even if seems weird to dedicate a post for an enclosure. Sovol SV08 IMHO deserves that enclosure. Thanks a lot for your work!
Thank you for the feedback on the progress graphics. Can you please elaborate on the proposed slider effect? I am testing all kinds of graphics, there were many reasons for the current one, and I am always looking to improve. I thought along one of the vertical edges would work better because vertical space is more valuable in landscape videos. I agree the way the icons fly across my face might be a bit strange, but I needed a way to highlight which part of the video you will find the answers to the questions I proposed in the intro. Thank you for helping with this!
Oh! I'm sorry, I haven't seen the sliders (transparent blue)! Great! I tried to click of those icons but they didn't respond though...
As for dedicating a video to an enclosure: I doubt many other channels would do this, though many potential users will be considering whether to invest in the official or build their own. Even if building their own, I assume a video like this could be helpful to show every detail of the original. Also, this being my first enclosed 3D printer, I just present my own fascination and "adventures" with this exciting hobby, and take the viewers along :)
@@joetkeshub That would be nice if UA-cam allowed click handling, but of course they don't... To navigate we can use the standard bottom seekbar (or the table of contents with the time-codes in the description of the video).
@@gerGoPrint3D Unfortunately despite my IT background, I don't know how to help you on this point. As I said earlier, your progress graphics is gorgeous and informative as well even if one can't click on them to navigate your paragraphs. That should be possible using some youtube API I guess.
Thank you so much for this. Very very useful.. thank you so much for your continued efforts!
Qidi x plus 3 / max or sovol sv8? Im confused
I might be testing the Q1 Pro soon, I plan to compare to SV08. I'll have to experience Qidi to be able to tell, but with the size of the Max it's one less advantage going for the Sovol. Specs-wise it's surely the Qidi, but from videos and pictures they feel cheaper,,, SV08 shows higher quality, more metal and glass, also linear rails instead of rods, but I'll really have to experience both to be able to give a hands on.
@gerGOPrint3d did you have to manually configure the exhaust fan to PA2 in config? I just set mine up last night and the fans look to be setup incorrectly in the stock config. The daughter board diagram from the sovol github have me confused ??? HELP!!! lol TIA
I haven't adjusted the pin config. The fan seemed to work from the Mainsail interface. Only the ABS preset in Orca has it turn on, to create some negative pressure inside so the smell wouldn't come out on the gaps around the panels.
Have you tried ASA?
only in my qidi, but will soon in the SV08 too
At no point anywhere does Sovol provide the fan size for the exhaust fan so one can plan ahead (their site, the github, installation video) .. it's been very frustrating. I based an improved filter enclosure design solely on your video description and caption of 8025.. After I received the kit I am sorry to say I've discovered this was incorrect; It's actually a 9025. I will have to adjust and reprint my design.
I am sorry. Thank you for the clarification!
thank you
SOVOL SV08 system booting forever; Stuck in booting latest firmware
.
That's a bummer. Have you made a backup before updating? ua-cam.com/video/PrC8zaVCHys/v-deo.html If not, you can get the disk image from the wiki on Sovol's website and write it on your EMMC (as explained in the linked video). Your settings and gcode files will be lost, but you should be back in your machine in no time.
@@gerGoPrint3D System Booting forever FIX. ....*
Action Taking
Format a USB drive as FAT 32
Copy the Firmware onto that drive, I already was using the Firmware 2.3.3, but I did this anyway.
With the SOVOL SV08 turned OFF! Placed the USB drive with ONLY the Firmware on it in to the SOVOL SV08 USB port.
Turned on the SOVOL SV08 after about 20 to a minute seconds it said “ready” on the display the SOVOL SV08 was useable again. Remover the USB drive from the 3D Printer..
Normally your asked to place the USB drive with the firmware on into the 3D Printer while the Ready display is shown but that is not possible because the Ready message is not displayed only System rebooting message until these actions are taken.
This reset all the defaults: so any changes like your config files will need changing back to how you like them, etc... This may give you a new IP address.
I carried out a quick 3D Print this was OK, the Z Probe height way off so I asked for Calibrate Zoffset from the Display It completed this test then reboot OK no issues it went to the Ready display message likewise Bed Mesh, etc... after each reboot, it when to the Ready message.
Each reboot has not got stuck in the System Rebooting message, it contuse to the Ready message
I carried out a small test 3D Print and it worked as expected this with the Z offset set by the 3D Printer
@@gerGoPrint3D thanks for help. I fixed the forever System booting issue as in the new description
LOL And Prusa wants $650 for their enclosure when this one looks a million times better and cost way less than the Prusa XL one.
They are in different price categories. For a 2-4 thousand dollar printer all accessories match the base price. Still I hear their enclosure is an afterthought and a pain to assemble.
The icon timeline on the side of the video is strange. Good video, though.
Thank you for the feedback! I thought it would be helpful to show the structure and progress of a longish video. Some might be interested mostly in the tests, others the content of the box or the assembly process before they themselves build it. A progress bar like this could help navigate the content. 60% of my viewers are not native English speakers, I went with the addage a picture worth a 1000 words (besides there would be no room for words there). And I moved the progress bar on the side, because on 16:9 videos I feel controls, seekbar and subtitles already use up too much of the vertical space.
If you watch my videos, I am experimenting all kinds of visualization styles, yours is the very first comment on this, thank you for it!!!
Does the enclosure enclose the printer
Yes. It works
No. it doesn’t work 🥴
Complicated upgrade... I'm not convinced it's worth it...
Depends on what you are printing mostly. If it's ABS/ASA or other sensitive materials this is the minimum (you might want to seal it too), if it's PETG, this is beneficial, if all you plan to print is PLA, yeah, don't bother. And btw, this is a very quick upgrade EXCEPT for the cable chain. The fan and panels could be added in 20 minutes. I wasted so much time because of the trouble with my cable chain (and also of course multi-camera, lighting, and documenting the process. But that's on me).
@@gerGoPrint3D I understand. I'm a PLA-addict so... I'm sure that you help many sovol so8 owners though.