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For the newbies... be careful when you measure the ID of a rod or main cap. You don't usually do it at 6/12 o'clock. When you tighten the fasteners, the bearing shell will go SLIGHTLY egg shaped (oval might be more accurate). On an LS or SBC for example, you'd check at about 11 & 1 (should both be the same).
It makes me feel more like a professional when I use a dial bore gage and micrometers for this job... ...but I've found plastigage honestly works just fine - and agrees nicely with the bore gage
I had bearing issues installing my cam in my ford kent 1600. I went through a couple sets of Vandervell bearings. It ended up being defects in the factory block casting. I ended up getting a custom set of cam bearings to align the cam tunnel to the line honed crank, and then faced the block deck hight to the crank. Kent 1600 suffers from rocker gear wear and limitations. What’s the bet part of that issue is due to the cam tunnel being out of alignment. I also should mention that the cam slipped in so smoothly and actually spun beautifully is an understatement. Oh and tapping it with a mallet, you couldn’t feel any movement… 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🍀
Bit of a frustrating journey there! No doubt cost you a bit of time and money but bet you were stoked when you found the cause in the end. Cheers for sharing - Taz
Factory bearings don’t spin because they are installed once. Measure surface that rides on bearing, if it is in spec, use stock size bearings. If out of spec then order for that to compensate. If you are using highest strength ARP bolts then have a machine shop do the work because the components will need to be honed to match round after torque applied to bolts, of course winging it can usually work but then opt for larger clearance and then use thicker oil. If some are loose and some are tight= trouble.
I wouldn't pull the bottom end apart to ONLY replace bearings. Perhaps consider sending out an oil sample for analysis and see if there is a large amount of bearing metal in the oil. If so - you should probably rebuild it. If not - let it eat.
haha cheers for the thought! We don't run heaps of adverts (you know that midroll unskippable crap we all hate), so UA-cam isn't really much a revenue stream for HPA vs what it costs us time wise, BUT, the little it does generate goes into the staff project car budget which is pretty rad so thanks for that 😎 The main goal is to just always try have helpful content at the end of the day so that you find it useful is our goal ticked - Taz.
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One nice thing about the LS's is you can grind the crank and go -.010 (etc), but they also offer a +.001 so you can tighten things up a hair!
My first engine build I used all 3 and triple measured everything just to make sure, as they say, measure twice cut once.
For the newbies... be careful when you measure the ID of a rod or main cap. You don't usually do it at 6/12 o'clock. When you tighten the fasteners, the bearing shell will go SLIGHTLY egg shaped (oval might be more accurate). On an LS or SBC for example, you'd check at about 11 & 1 (should both be the same).
Also when using stock sbc-like rods it pays to have the big end resized. They are very often out of spec. Even on low milage engines.
there shoud be no ovality in the big end bore
what about the main journal best way to measure the 2 halves?
It makes me feel more like a professional when I use a dial bore gage and micrometers for this job...
...but I've found plastigage honestly works just fine - and agrees nicely with the bore gage
I had bearing issues installing my cam in my ford kent 1600. I went through a couple sets of Vandervell bearings.
It ended up being defects in the factory block casting.
I ended up getting a custom set of cam bearings to align the cam tunnel to the line honed crank, and then faced the block deck hight to the crank.
Kent 1600 suffers from rocker gear wear and limitations. What’s the bet part of that issue is due to the cam tunnel being out of alignment.
I also should mention that the cam slipped in so smoothly and actually spun beautifully is an understatement. Oh and tapping it with a mallet, you couldn’t feel any movement…
🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🍀
Bit of a frustrating journey there! No doubt cost you a bit of time and money but bet you were stoked when you found the cause in the end. Cheers for sharing - Taz
Very Good Webinar.
Cheers Bjorn! - Taz.
So you need to purchase the bearings before you measure ? Seems like you’d end up potentially having multiple sets that you don’t need
Hi , how accutate this test can be if performed without physically teardown engine and running this test via some device and software ?
Thansk
Factory bearings don’t spin because they are installed once. Measure surface that rides on bearing, if it is in spec, use stock size bearings. If out of spec then order for that to compensate. If you are using highest strength ARP bolts then have a machine shop do the work because the components will need to be honed to match round after torque applied to bolts, of course winging it can usually work but then opt for larger clearance and then use thicker oil. If some are loose and some are tight= trouble.
Should i consider replacing engine internal bearings if i will be doing FI to N/A high milage engine?
I wouldn't pull the bottom end apart to ONLY replace bearings. Perhaps consider sending out an oil sample for analysis and see if there is a large amount of bearing metal in the oil. If so - you should probably rebuild it. If not - let it eat.
My dumbass bought acl -0.025 bearing thinking they increased clearance. Good thing i plastigauged it.
Good work on the double check to be sure though! We're only human. The time it takes for a quick 'sanity check' vs a rebuild is minimal 😎 - Taz.
Please please please pleaaaaase add the FA20 to the worked examples of the practical engine building course. Ya’ll would be saving my life haha
I commented this before hearing you say this was an fa20 bottom end 😅 but would still love to see the rest
The FA20 platform rebuild is common due failures re rods, bearings or ringlands. Would appreciate further depth into rebuilding it.
Appreciate you.
Great video…!
I hope you get paid more if people watch this video multiple times.
Because I can guarantee I’ll be watching this video again. 😂
haha cheers for the thought! We don't run heaps of adverts (you know that midroll unskippable crap we all hate), so UA-cam isn't really much a revenue stream for HPA vs what it costs us time wise, BUT, the little it does generate goes into the staff project car budget which is pretty rad so thanks for that 😎
The main goal is to just always try have helpful content at the end of the day so that you find it useful is our goal ticked - Taz.
ohrrrrrrr norrrrrrrrrr cleaorrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
For the novices, half hour of no tutorial , you dont show nothing properly ,and for the experiented ones less even!!
What aspects are you still confused about? - Taz.