Hey everyone, thanks again for watching! We hope this helps you save a bit of cash by doing this job yourself. All the parts required will be listed in the description, remember these are suitable for the Ford, Peugeot and Citroen 1.6/2.0 diesel engines. Thanks again for watching.
Great video again showing how any average person can do this job following your video and bye the way here in england garages are charging labour at £65p pet hour on average so you guys helping us out fabtastic
Thanks Philip. After years of working in main dealers I always felt guilty charging people 75/80 per hour for something that could be done at home in 20 mins. I hope we can grow the channel bigger and help as many people as possible.
Good video - but why did you leave out the most important part(s) - that is removing the injectors - and copper seal that was left behind? Were there also seals at the top end of the injector? You spent more time showing cleaning off carbon deposits! Also - what technique did you use to ensure that the new copper seals stayed on the injectors as they where pushed back in?
A general thing you can do to keep the copper seal to stay on the injectors is to use a wee bit of grease underneath thetip of the injector where the seal stays
@@HomeBuilt I own ford focus sport 1.6 diesel 2011, my engine is similar but not exact` only one pipe on the water reserve bottle ,at front, Any way I know its off the beaten track but my car kept going in to limp mode, found out it was the module connected to the fan that cools radiator. Fan comes with module so whole lot had to be bought, 9 weeks in and went into limp mode again engine smelling hot like last time, if I find the module has gone again, could this be the high pressure water pump being intermittent and eventually get worse causing the module to the fan to get damaged due to the water not pumping around when it gets to hot, some times i do here a slight gurgle noise when engine running now and then from around the water pump area but not all the time , and ill here it even though the fan does not kick in be for temperature hast even crept up,
@@piecetoyou8285 you have a coolant issue, in the job i done in the video we didnt touch the coolant system. It sounds like you have trapped air in the system, these are not the easiest to bleed, disconnect the bottle from its mounts amd raise it higher than the engine and ooen the bleed screws amd fill until you get a constant stream with no air then run the car uo to temp, allow to cool and check level, top up and repeat if necessary until you get a good heater in the car and car no longer overheats. Finally put the header tank back on its normal mounts.
@@HomeBuilt owe the car has never gone into the danger as in high temp than it should, I have hot air from heating as well, but the engine smells hot than normal like excessive heat, and the RPM tick over is slightly faster, I had replaced alternator because it went on me and replaced belt and the injector was chuffing so i replaced washer etc that stopped the chuffing, and replaced oil , but its this slight gurgling now and then, from water pump side, if i do have air in the system would the temp of reached danger level and wouldn't be any heating would there,?
Nice job mate, been some injectors that have had such bad carbon build up had the big slam puller on it for good while breaking them lose some pain of jobs can be sometimes. Good that it turned nice easy one
I used a round file, push it in until the grip and pull it out. You can also use a pick tool. I probably should have shown that in the video.... Thanks again Ryan.
Just for reference, I haven't taken my injectors out but... I had 2 leaking injectors, 1 at the "chuffing" stage of leaking, quite a bit of solid tar around both. (Note: I always tighten them "hot" immediately after a 15+ mile drive, so the carbon/tar is softened). Initially tightened all clamps to 7Nm. That stopped the chuffing but there was still an exhaust smell in the car at times. Eventually tightened all clamps to 14Nm. This needs to be done several times (over several days) until none of the clamps move at 14Nm. I used to tighten every Wednesday, straight after a particular journey! It's basically squeezing the injector down the tube through the (warm) tar and also squeezing any tar out from above/below the copper washer. The tar is so viscous that that's not going to happen in one go! This has been fine for 3 years now. I check them every 6 months or so at 14 Nm & there's basically no movement. I believe the part of the studs that screws into the head is only M6. I think I found the recommended torque for 8.8 grade M6 thread is 12 Nm. (16Nm for 10.9 grade steel). So my 14Nm may be slightly over the recommended torque for that size and there may be some risk. (Although I think the upper part of the stud is M8, so who knows what difference that makes?) Angle tightening a stud that's being reused is also a risk, so take your choice! The down side of angle tightening is also that you don't know what torque you ended up at, so you can't check them in a years time incase they've backed off. The problem with these injectors isn't that the copper washer fails. The problem is that the cap nuts back off until there isn't enough clamping force for the copper washer to seal. (If you look at a leaking injector that's at the chuffing stage the clamp nuts won't be much more than finger tight!) If people torqued these down every time they changed their engine oil, then leaking injectors would be a thing of the past. (Or if someone made a clamp to stop the nuts backing off over time).
Great video, I have the same problem on my Peugeot partner. The mechanic said there’s a chance the injector could snap . Then the van would be scraped.
Very helpful video, i have 2011 ford focus and i have the same problem, when i turn heating on it smells inside burning of fuel which is so annoying, after watching this video i can replace these injector seals myself, Can you please tell me what sockets and tools with sizes do i need ?
Thanks for watching, you will need basic hand tools, screwdrivers, 3/8 socket set and some snips but you will also need the seat cutting tool that’s in the description or they will leak again. Best of luck with it.
Hi on the 2007 fiesta 1.4tdci they did the same job because now the fiesta has become a naturally aspirated car? Before removing the injectors the turbo could be heard pushing! 🤔It's a Siemens system
It depends on how bad the carbon build up is and how easy it is to remove the injectors. I’ve seen me charge 2hrs and more than 10hrs on some older mercs
Yes we still do customer work, we have a small garage in Blantyre. Drop me an email at homebuilt2020@outlook.com with your number and i will call you for a chat about it.
Thanks for the video will try this. Also got another problem P138c "Glow Plug Model control circuit Permanent" Is the relay damaged? If yes where is the relay located? 🙏
@@HomeBuilt finishing it to day my was such a sod to get out tried slide hammers and everything, I had to take the whole injector apart and use a special tool to remove it what a nightmare 🤬
Hi mate, ive got a 1.6tdci focus mk3, its got a similar issue however its smoking from the exhaust and slightly ontop of the engine. It also came up with fuel trim at max limit. Any ideas?
I didn’t in this case as they were ok, the torque setting for the injectors isn’t mega tight so they wouldn’t have stretched. If the threads look ok and they are not loose in the head I would use the originals and save any problems
Use the seat cutting tool to try and loosen it up, I also use my cleaning brush and poke it through the seal hole so the brush opens up on the other side and use that to pull it out.
Well this morning I’ve cleaned the whole port and it’s spotless manger to get a circular file in the hole 🕳️ gave it a pull and nothing and I was pulling hard, it’s almost like it’s been stuck in there with something at some point I sprayed a little brake cleaner on a bike cleaning brush circular one cleaned a few times but still no movement at all I’ve ordered a removal tool to give that ago but I’m getting nothing.
Just a quick word to the wise. The injectors on the PSA engine run from the flywheel end of the engine so the injector that you called number two is in actual fact number three.👍👍
@@HomeBuilt thanks! This helps me sleep untill I get to do the job (I have to reinstall the injector with new sealing and new fastener, also have to change the hose, so are waiting for parts).
@@HomeBuilt Done! Thanks again! One thing that puzzles me is that the torque I needed to give to the injector support bolt is much less than I expected (7nm and then 55 degrees). Car moves again!
Hey, loved your video, followed every stepped and I got rid of "chuffin", could swear that engine is not as loud as before too, but I have new issue, on injector 3 and 4 i have slight diesel leak on the top of the return fuel line, have I screwed up something ? :D Also sometimes it starts missfiring at idle.
Mostly engines from PSA have this problem. That why its recommended to change washers every two change oil. Ofc there is alot engines that need to change it also and its also recommended.
All four of mine were leaking. the black shit had built up around every injector. I just tightened the bolts that hold them down and they haven't leaked since. It's only been a month but I did read it is common for those bolts to become loose
Hi wee question for you my 2010 focus has no warning lights on dash and when plugged into diagnostic machine shows no faults starts first time every time but when driving along it comes up engine malfunction and goes into limp mode changed air intake hoses changed air flow sensor and still does it do you have any tips please it’s driving me mad thanks in advance
Number 3 injector on mine is seized solid number 2 came out no problem going to have to try again with a slide puller or something the injector tick on idle is annoying I like a quiet engine 😂.
@@HomeBuilt A mechanic friend told me to remove the plug but leave the rail connected and start the engine for a second and it should help it come out 😳 . I’ve never done injectors in my life apart from this time and number two twisted out no problem but #3 is my issue leaking past the seal and a good bit of carbon around the injector now but apart from that I love my 1.6 HDI lol
@@HomeBuilt thanks after doing just one injector there’s no more diesel fumes coming into the cabin so it’s cured that but on idle there’s still a slight injector tick whereas before hand it was chuffing like your video so an improvement
Yes mate, you can get away with doing 1, you may end up with another one going down the line though. Depending what you have to take off to get to the 1 you may be better doing all 4 but if its easy enough just do them when they need done.
Hi mate, I have a mazda 3, same engine as the car in your video, had a turbo changed twice and they both blew within a week, do you know how to find the origin of the fault? I read somewhere that leaky injectors could have let dirt and carbon in and blew the turbo but it's a bit bizarre both blew that quickly, and they were brand new turbos as well.
What’s your service history like? Check your oil feed to the turbo and make sure it’s getting oil, also make sure it’s not getting too much oil pressure. You will clearly hear and see if the injectors are bad when you take the engine cover off.
@@HomeBuilt I've only used the car for a year. No paperwork when I bought the car so unsure of the service history. PS: It's good seeing a Scottish UA-camr on here. I live in Bishopbriggs so not too far away from you.
Hello is it ok to use degreaser to clean the area around the injectors and ive seen a gasket remover spray is good for dissolving carbon build up,will this do any harm if i use them both to clean?
Brilliant and so understandable. I have a 2008 Focus 1.6 Tdci with number 3 injector (third injector along from the left to right as your looking face on from the front of the engine) leaking out diesel but i'm not getting any "Chuff Chuff" noise/sound. Just wondering if it could be the brass seal/washer that needs replacing or if it could be the actual injector that's to fault. I am dreading a BIG garage bill if i'm not able to sort it myself. I've replaced the "EGR" valve and the fuel pump/filter last year myself (November last year in the freezing cold weather with 2x layers of clothing on. Froze me nads off lol but i managed to do it myself. Would so appreciate any information or help as to why my number 3 injector is leaking out fuel. My car means so much to me as my late mum bought it for me October 2022 and she passed away in March last year. So my car is precious to me tbh.
I had this on a Picasso, when I pulled the injector it took the liner out with it, I had bought a recon injector, and had to buy a new liner, which needed a special tool to press it back in which cost me a couple of hundred, it also presses the top seal in place too
Ive done this to several of my fords over the years. Im still struggling to understand how this carbon gets into the oil and kills your turbo? The carbon is building up outside of the engine....
Thx for a great video, much appreciated. 👌I have the same engine in my 2006 Fiesta.. Can I use normal engine cleaner as well together with low pressure water to wash all the muck off ? and what about "de-pressurizing" the high pressure side of the fuel system? Will appreciate your feedback.. Working in the rain to share your knowledge with us noobs; that's respect right there man...👍
Not much info in this … how did you take out injectors? What happened to the original copper washers? Were they left in the engine ? How did you clean once injectors were out? What was the blue box tool for? … I stopped watching half way through … thanks anyways
Everyone who used this engine from PSA had chance to fix this problems before, but they decided a big NO. Im changing it on Peugeot every 20000km and it cost me 5$. Nothing serious.
Hey everyone, thanks again for watching!
We hope this helps you save a bit of cash by doing this job yourself.
All the parts required will be listed in the description, remember these are suitable for the Ford, Peugeot and Citroen 1.6/2.0 diesel engines.
Thanks again for watching.
you havent listed the parts needed anywhere
Great video again showing how any average person can do this job following your video and bye the way here in england garages are charging labour at £65p pet hour on average so you guys helping us out fabtastic
Thanks Philip.
After years of working in main dealers I always felt guilty charging people 75/80 per hour for something that could be done at home in 20 mins.
I hope we can grow the channel bigger and help as many people as possible.
Thank you. I have the same issue with my car which I will do myself, your video is much appreciated
No problem, I hope it helps and if you get stuck just drop us a message.
Good luck.
Good video - but why did you leave out the most important part(s) - that is removing the injectors - and copper seal that was left behind?
Were there also seals at the top end of the injector?
You spent more time showing cleaning off carbon deposits!
Also - what technique did you use to ensure that the new copper seals stayed on the injectors as they where pushed back in?
A general thing you can do to keep the copper seal to stay on the injectors is to use a wee bit of grease underneath thetip of the injector where the seal stays
Great video.....nice to see the Scottish weather at its best 😎 thanks.
Thanks Paul.
We could get so much more done if it wasn't for the Scottish weather.😂
@@HomeBuilt well....even in my sub tropical Sussex you would struggle this week 😎
The aerosol Mr muscle oven cleaner is good at cleaning the carbon off once the heavy deposits have been chipped off if you clean it off with hot water
I've never tried it but ill give it a go the next time. Thanks for the tip.
Mr muscle courses corrosion to the aluminum tube inside over time.
@@stephenmunt1624even quicker my opinion.. NEVER USE MR MUSCLE..
Mr Muscle loves the jobs you hate, yeah like f#@king your motor up..
This video was a lifesaver, thank you very much!
Fair play for standing in the rain bud. Hats off to ya
Thanks dude, got to try and stick to that UA-cam schedule😂
@@HomeBuilt it’s the editing that got to me. No problem shooting the video but the editing. GIVE ME A BRAKE.
The editing is Charlie’s favourite bit 😂 I can take it or leave it.
Quality video fantastic tutorial
Thank you
Thanks . Very informative. I have a Peugeot with same problem and I wondered if it was something I could do
Great video
Thank you.
Great video and commentary, hope you did'nt catch a cold. Will do this job myself.
Very helpful, UA-cam is amazing for learning 👍
Thanks Paul, welcome to the community.
Nice job cheers for showing to us,
could I ask why did you not have to bleed the system?
It has an electronic high pressure pump with a return system so thankfully these self prime with a few turns of the key.
@@HomeBuilt I own ford focus sport 1.6 diesel 2011, my engine is similar but not exact` only one pipe on the water reserve bottle ,at front,
Any way I know its off the beaten track but my car kept going in to limp mode, found out it was the module connected to the fan that cools radiator. Fan comes with module so whole lot had to be bought, 9 weeks in and went into limp mode again engine smelling hot like last time, if I find the module has gone again, could this be the high pressure water pump being intermittent and eventually get worse causing the module to the fan to get damaged due to the water not pumping around when it gets to hot,
some times i do here a slight gurgle noise when engine running now and then from around the water pump area but not all the time , and ill here it even though the fan does not kick in be for temperature hast even crept up,
@@piecetoyou8285 you have a coolant issue, in the job i done in the video we didnt touch the coolant system.
It sounds like you have trapped air in the system, these are not the easiest to bleed, disconnect the bottle from its mounts amd raise it higher than the engine and ooen the bleed screws amd fill until you get a constant stream with no air then run the car uo to temp, allow to cool and check level, top up and repeat if necessary until you get a good heater in the car and car no longer overheats. Finally put the header tank back on its normal mounts.
@@HomeBuilt owe the car has never gone into the danger as in high temp than it should, I have hot air from heating as well,
but the engine smells hot than normal like excessive heat, and the RPM tick over is slightly faster,
I had replaced alternator because it went on me and replaced belt and the injector was chuffing so i replaced washer etc that stopped the chuffing, and replaced oil ,
but its this slight gurgling now and then, from water pump side, if i do have air in the system would the temp of reached danger level and wouldn't be any heating would there,?
Nice job mate, been some injectors that have had such bad carbon build up had the big slam puller on it for good while breaking them lose some pain of jobs can be sometimes. Good that it turned nice easy one
I remember some real bad ones from my Mercedes days.
Even smashed a few rocker covers to get them out 😂
@@HomeBuilt aye done that 🤣🤣🤣
Another great video mate. How did you get the other copper washers out?
I used a round file, push it in until the grip and pull it out.
You can also use a pick tool.
I probably should have shown that in the video....
Thanks again Ryan.
I had the same problem only thing I had available was a torx bit and a long reach socket pushed it down and it bit and came out thank god
How did u get the injectors out with a spanner ?
Just for reference, I haven't taken my injectors out but...
I had 2 leaking injectors, 1 at the "chuffing" stage of leaking, quite a bit of solid tar around both.
(Note: I always tighten them "hot" immediately after a 15+ mile drive, so the carbon/tar is softened).
Initially tightened all clamps to 7Nm. That stopped the chuffing but there was still an exhaust smell in the car at times.
Eventually tightened all clamps to 14Nm. This needs to be done several times (over several days) until none of the clamps move at 14Nm. I used to tighten every Wednesday, straight after a particular journey! It's basically squeezing the injector down the tube through the (warm) tar and also squeezing any tar out from above/below the copper washer. The tar is so viscous that that's not going to happen in one go!
This has been fine for 3 years now. I check them every 6 months or so at 14 Nm & there's basically no movement.
I believe the part of the studs that screws into the head is only M6. I think I found the recommended torque for 8.8 grade M6 thread is 12 Nm. (16Nm for 10.9 grade steel). So my 14Nm may be slightly over the recommended torque for that size and there may be some risk. (Although I think the upper part of the stud is M8, so who knows what difference that makes?)
Angle tightening a stud that's being reused is also a risk, so take your choice! The down side of angle tightening is also that you don't know what torque you ended up at, so you can't check them in a years time incase they've backed off.
The problem with these injectors isn't that the copper washer fails. The problem is that the cap nuts back off until there isn't enough clamping force for the copper washer to seal. (If you look at a leaking injector that's at the chuffing stage the clamp nuts won't be much more than finger tight!)
If people torqued these down every time they changed their engine oil, then leaking injectors would be a thing of the past. (Or if someone made a clamp to stop the nuts backing off over time).
very helpful thanks 👍
No problem
Great video, I have the same problem on my Peugeot partner. The mechanic said there’s a chance the injector could snap . Then the van would be scraped.
Thats why its recommended to change washers every two change oil. If you ignore it, then will happen problems like on this video.
Some amount of graft! Well done!
Thanks, it's not easy cleaning it all but we'll worth the effort.
Runs sweet now.
Very helpful video, i have 2011 ford focus and i have the same problem, when i turn heating on it smells inside burning of fuel which is so annoying, after watching this video i can replace these injector seals myself, Can you please tell me what sockets and tools with sizes do i need ?
Thanks for watching, you will need basic hand tools, screwdrivers, 3/8 socket set and some snips but you will also need the seat cutting tool that’s in the description or they will leak again.
Best of luck with it.
Thats why its recommended to change washers every two change oil. Its will cost you 5$ and you will prevent that.
Hi pal do you have a video on how to change the diesel fuel filter on this exact same car ford focus mk2 1.6 dtci on 09 plate.. cheers
We dont mate, sorry.
great vid . im in the process of refitting manifold and fuel injectors, do you know the torque on these , been all over the net
Im sure its something like 5nm then 65 degree's but not 100% sure, ive left my laptop at work but im happy to check Autodata in the morning for you.
Hi on the 2007 fiesta 1.4tdci they did the same job because now the fiesta has become a naturally aspirated car? Before removing the injectors the turbo could be heard pushing! 🤔It's a Siemens system
Hi mate, how much would you normally charge to do this? I have the same problem on my 1.6d Volvo c30
It depends on how bad the carbon build up is and how easy it is to remove the injectors. I’ve seen me charge 2hrs and more than 10hrs on some older mercs
@@HomeBuilt Do you still do homers at all mate or do you only work on ur own projects now?
Yes we still do customer work, we have a small garage in Blantyre.
Drop me an email at homebuilt2020@outlook.com with your number and i will call you for a chat about it.
do you have a link where i can purchase this for my cousin overseas? thanks!
On Amazon mate
If they just type injector seat cutter wherever they are it will come up
Thanks for the video will try this. Also got another problem P138c "Glow Plug Model control circuit Permanent" Is the relay damaged? If yes where is the relay located? 🙏
Cheers 👍👍👍🏴😎
No worries, thanks for watching.
Did you change the oil to as bit could have fell in the cams, I am going to just incase something blocks up 👍
Yes mate, always worth it.
@@HomeBuilt finishing it to day my was such a sod to get out tried slide hammers and everything, I had to take the whole injector apart and use a special tool to remove it what a nightmare 🤬
It’s crap when they are like that.
I have a lot of experience doing Mercedes’ ones, I’ve smashed rocker covers and everything to get them out.
Hi mate, ive got a 1.6tdci focus mk3, its got a similar issue however its smoking from the exhaust and slightly ontop of the engine. It also came up with fuel trim at max limit. Any ideas?
Did u change the injector studs I need to do my peugeot with the same engine and i hear when replacing the studs that they snap all the time
I didn’t in this case as they were ok, the torque setting for the injectors isn’t mega tight so they wouldn’t have stretched.
If the threads look ok and they are not loose in the head I would use the originals and save any problems
I have a seal that I can’t get out any ideas , I’ve used screw driver, puller etc
Use the seat cutting tool to try and loosen it up, I also use my cleaning brush and poke it through the seal hole so the brush opens up on the other side and use that to pull it out.
Well this morning I’ve cleaned the whole port and it’s spotless manger to get a circular file in the hole 🕳️ gave it a pull and nothing and I was pulling hard, it’s almost like it’s been stuck in there with something at some point
I sprayed a little brake cleaner on a bike cleaning brush circular one cleaned a few times but still no movement at all
I’ve ordered a removal tool to give that ago but I’m getting nothing.
Have you ever thought about putting a washer on a washer ? And I thought putting some copper sealant in in between
Hi! What grease do you use on the injectors, when they are put back in?
Hi David, it’s a ceramic anti seize grease.
Could you use copper grease?
Just a quick word to the wise.
The injectors on the PSA engine run from the flywheel end of the engine so the injector that you called number two is in actual fact number three.👍👍
Great video mate 👍
Thanks Dennis
I did one and got a P0193. What did I do wrong?
Sounds like a fuel pressure code. Build it up, get it started and vlear the codes. You've opened the fuel system so it can cause faults now and then.
@@HomeBuilt thanks! This helps me sleep untill I get to do the job (I have to reinstall the injector with new sealing and new fastener, also have to change the hose, so are waiting for parts).
@@HomeBuilt Done! Thanks again! One thing that puzzles me is that the torque I needed to give to the injector support bolt is much less than I expected (7nm and then 55 degrees).
Car moves again!
What is the special tool you mention @£20, missed that, well explained BTW cheers Stuart
Hey, loved your video, followed every stepped and I got rid of "chuffin", could swear that engine is not as loud as before too, but I have new issue, on injector 3 and 4 i have slight diesel leak on the top of the return fuel line, have I screwed up something ? :D Also sometimes it starts missfiring at idle.
Awesome, glad it helped.
You may have just nipped the o-ring on the return pipe but they are pennies
does this not happen on the widely used Renault engine?
It happens to them all now and then but these are very common
Mostly engines from PSA have this problem. That why its recommended to change washers every two change oil. Ofc there is alot engines that need to change it also and its also recommended.
My mechanic just told me i have a blown injector. Is this the same thing. Pardon my ignorance.
Yes, or he may mean the injector has failed and needs replaced, either way its the same process
I got Quoted 850 to get my car fix over the same problemas the video.@HomeBuilt
All four of mine were leaking. the black shit had built up around every injector. I just tightened the bolts that hold them down and they haven't leaked since. It's only been a month but I did read it is common for those bolts to become loose
The threads are very soft too, just be careful you don’t over tighten them and strip the thread.
Iv got wot looks like oil around 3 of my injectors no smell of diesel if the seals need doing on mine is oil what i will see. ..
It may be the Rocker Cover gasket.
If you want to send a pic to homebuilt2020@outlook.com I can try and advise you a bit better.
Hi wee question for you my 2010 focus has no warning lights on dash and when plugged into diagnostic machine shows no faults starts first time every time but when driving along it comes up engine malfunction and goes into limp mode changed air intake hoses changed air flow sensor and still does it do you have any tips please it’s driving me mad thanks in advance
Could be the cluster behind the clocks needs resoldering on the PCB.
Number 3 injector on mine is seized solid number 2 came out no problem going to have to try again with a slide puller or something the injector tick on idle is annoying I like a quiet engine 😂.
Try spraying some wd40 around the injector and leave it to penetrate overnight if you can.
@@HomeBuilt A mechanic friend told me to remove the plug but leave the rail connected and start the engine for a second and it should help it come out 😳 . I’ve never done injectors in my life apart from this time and number two twisted out no problem but #3 is my issue leaking past the seal and a good bit of carbon around the injector now but apart from that I love my 1.6 HDI lol
It will be the carbon holding it in, you can also try coca cola (the full fat one) leave it overnight and it will break up the carbon.
@@HomeBuilt thanks after doing just one injector there’s no more diesel fumes coming into the cabin so it’s cured that but on idle there’s still a slight injector tick whereas before hand it was chuffing like your video so an improvement
That’s awesome mate, glad it’s better.
I have the same engine on a mazda 3 only one injector is chuffing is it ok to just change one seal? Luckily the mess around it isn't too bad.
Yes mate, you can get away with doing 1, you may end up with another one going down the line though.
Depending what you have to take off to get to the 1 you may be better doing all 4 but if its easy enough just do them when they need done.
@@HomeBuilt Thanks to anyone that has the issue on 1 injector tightening them down helps for a short time untill you can fix it properly.
Hi mate, I have a mazda 3, same engine as the car in your video, had a turbo changed twice and they both blew within a week, do you know how to find the origin of the fault? I read somewhere that leaky injectors could have let dirt and carbon in and blew the turbo but it's a bit bizarre both blew that quickly, and they were brand new turbos as well.
What’s your service history like? Check your oil feed to the turbo and make sure it’s getting oil, also make sure it’s not getting too much oil pressure.
You will clearly hear and see if the injectors are bad when you take the engine cover off.
@@HomeBuilt I've only used the car for a year. No paperwork when I bought the car so unsure of the service history. PS: It's good seeing a Scottish UA-camr on here. I live in Bishopbriggs so not too far away from you.
Cool, thanks for watching.
Not many Scottish guys on here at all.
The only other one I know is GlasgowGTR
@@HomeBuilt I’ll check them out! Found you through Chops!
Nice, me and chops have done and will be doing a bit more together, you should see what we will be doing to his old Micra
Wynns injector cleaner is brilliant that's what I used on my injectors as 2 was seized in stuck 😡
Never tried it but I will remember that for next time.
Hello is it ok to use degreaser to clean the area around the injectors and ive seen a gasket remover spray is good for dissolving carbon build up,will this do any harm if i use them both to clean?
Yes mate, no problem just make sure you dont fill the cylinders with cleaning products
Good man,thanks for the reply👍.
No worries mate
Brilliant and so understandable. I have a 2008 Focus 1.6 Tdci with number 3 injector (third injector along from the left to right as your looking face on from the front of the engine) leaking out diesel but i'm not getting any "Chuff Chuff" noise/sound. Just wondering if it could be the brass seal/washer that needs replacing or if it could be the actual injector that's to fault. I am dreading a BIG garage bill if i'm not able to sort it myself. I've replaced the "EGR" valve and the fuel pump/filter last year myself (November last year in the freezing cold weather with 2x layers of clothing on. Froze me nads off lol but i managed to do it myself. Would so appreciate any information or help as to why my number 3 injector is leaking out fuel. My car means so much to me as my late mum bought it for me October 2022 and she passed away in March last year. So my car is precious to me tbh.
I'm doing this on a mini Cooper bloody things
Same engine I think 🤔
Thats same engine from PSA. Thats why its recommended to change washers every two change oil.
Hi what is the tool you use for cleaning the injectors..
A wire brush for the injector and a seat cleaning tool for the head. I have left a link below to the one we use.
amzn.to/3jXLLva
Thanks for watching.
@@HomeBuilt ok thanks for that.
No worries
I had this on a Picasso, when I pulled the injector it took the liner out with it, I had bought a recon injector, and had to buy a new liner, which needed a special tool to press it back in which cost me a couple of hundred, it also presses the top seal in place too
Ive never done them on a Citroen to be honest but they sound like they can be a pig to do.
@@HomeBuilt same engine 1.6hdi, the carbon had went right round between the injector and liner
Ive done this to several of my fords over the years. Im still struggling to understand how this carbon gets into the oil and kills your turbo? The carbon is building up outside of the engine....
Didn't show the important bit of seal removal and seat cleaning 🙄
Yeh we did, maybe you skipped that bit.
Nope… definitely didn’t show that
Thx for a great video, much appreciated. 👌I have the same engine in my 2006 Fiesta.. Can I use normal engine cleaner as well together with low pressure water to wash all the muck off ? and what about "de-pressurizing" the high pressure side of the fuel system? Will appreciate your feedback..
Working in the rain to share your knowledge with us noobs; that's respect right there man...👍
good engines with low consumption but anoying with lot of problems too
Not much info in this … how did you take out injectors? What happened to the original copper washers? Were they left in the engine ? How did you clean once injectors were out? What was the blue box tool for? … I stopped watching half way through … thanks anyways
If you watch the video all the info you need and what the blue box tool is and ones is all in the video. Thanks anyway.
❤😂😂🎉🎉🎉🎉
it might be cylinder 1234 but its injectors 4321 its BLOODY french
Everyone who used this engine from PSA had chance to fix this problems before, but they decided a big NO. Im changing it on Peugeot every 20000km and it cost me 5$. Nothing serious.
Great video mate.
Thanks mate
Great video thank you 👍