I think using a rubber mallet would help remove that oil pan. Just try and hit all around it. I use it on just about everything when I'm working on my car even to remove the wheel rotors. Great tool to have laying around. Thanks for sharing Doris, and I'll see you in the next video.
I helped a co-worker start a similar year mustang after a long sit and it didn't go so well. Turns out the cam was stuck to the cam bearings so when it freed up the bearings were damaged. It ended up starving one bank of lifters and the valve train for oil and ate a bunch of rocker studs in the process. In hind sight we should have pulled the distributer and pre-primed the oil before attempting the start.
@woman.driven Yea, you never know... I've resurrected dozens of cars that have sat for years or decades...for the most part unless they had issues before it was parked they will run...it's usually not pretty at first 😂. Usually lots of smoke and the lifters are often stuck, but putting some Seafoam in the crank cade and just letting it idle for a while usually clears it up. All that gunk in the oil looks like maybe coolant got in there, which would indicate a bad head gasket or a crack in a head or the block. On stuff that's sat that long also expect the brake system to need a rebuild and don't be surprised if the gas tank is rusted out if it had fuel in it.
The number one plug is on the battery side. The way it is now is 180 degrees out. Also the cylinders are 1 thru 4 on the same side as the battery. 5 thru 8 are on the driver side
Doris, I love your enthusiasm and willingness to try anything. With water in the oil, twice now, the situation does not look good. Before you pull the engine, I'd recommend doing a compression test and a cooling system pressure test. That will probably reveal the cause of the water in the oil. It may still mean removing the engine, but you will have more knowledge about what to look for, when you take it apart. Keep up the great work.
start with the basics put everything back the way its suppose to be,,ignition coil on engine secured,make sure distributor is on the #1 also there should be a mark on the damper to verify that its on top dead center or 0 degree,get a new battery or steal one from the other cars,,you need a test light 1.99 at Harborfreight and a spark checker,or just remove #1 plug while cranking see if there's spark you can do this with the coil as well if you remove ignition wire from distributor,you can use a spark plug to verify spark if you don't have a spark checker,don't give up you can get this engine started but probably going to need head gaskets,main thing is to make sure you have spark and fuel.
At least the crank is turning and the pistons are going up & down. As others said, get a stronger/longer lasting battery and run it longer on the starter to see if it catches. When you poured gas in the carb it looks like you poured it straight in? Try filling the reservoir on it then get a helper to pour a little in as you turn it over (wear gloves & safety glasses in case of a backfire!). If you do replace the engine even a basic Ford V-8 crate engine would work great in it. Keep at it, its a nice car with a pretty pristine body so you have a great car to start with.
Battery was new and I feel it was just draining after so many attempts in my last video, in between and this past video. I poured the fuel in two separate areas and pull the throttle by hand and nothing. I’m just glad I tried most before now working to pull the engine out.
Hey Doris, you should concider getting a good pair of safety glasses. All the strong vibrations rain down all the rust particles and you need to keep those pretty eyes in tact.
Hi Doris, you are on the right track. I hope you didn't pay too much for that car. Pulling the engine & tranny is the best solution. Be prepared for a total rebuild. Fortunately parts are plentiful !
Good choice!! If that engine has been sittings that long. Just go ahead and rebuild it. I have a 67 289 engine you have the correct timing on the distributor.
Valiant attempt by "get it done, Doris"!!! It may seem frustrating but push forward, it will all be worth it with this beautiful classic! Best wishes and blessings to you!
You had it, that skip before the battery died was one of the cylinders firing. I'm surprised it turns at all. That is a thirsty beast, a useful "shot" of gas in that carb is probably in the 4 ounce range (and even that's only going to get you a few seconds of runtime, at the cost of a possible blowtorch coming out of the carb if it ignites in the intake)
Looks like some frame and cross member restoration is in the cards while the engine and trans are out. This looks savable for sure. It will be a long but well worth it project.
Did you make sure that you can rotate the crank? To me it sounds like the compression is off that starters to weak to turn the flywheel.. so it makes me wonder but I think you’re right. This engine is toast.
First thing you need a good charged battery. Then check if there is spark. If not check for voltage at the coil. If there is voltage clean or replace the points. Watch some videos of resurrections to see how it is done.
Kick that motor to the curb. Looks like someone has been in there before trying to get it running. As long as it's not a numbers matching block to the car who needs it. Plus a shiny new Coyote or LS would be way better.
Since day one of you channel you've always had that #LetsGiveItAShot attitude and that's why I started following. Since then you have always given everything at try! ❤❤❤ you chica! Keep conquering your challenges! You gonna try and rebuild the engine at some point? That era engine is much easier to work on especially when on a stand vs in the car.
I appreciate that. Can’t hurt to try at this point lol. But yes, I’ll pull it, take it apart and then have a shop prep it all for me to assemble. I think at that point the engine will be fine, it’s all the other stuff like wiring that may be an issue
Once you got milk from the oil pan the second time I knew the engine had to come out. What great content it would be to examine the engine when you remove the valve covers, the valley pan and the heads!!! I would love to see what the inside of that motor looks like.
I love all you do Doris. But it would be wise to remove the engine and do basic maintenance to get it to start. A through inspection is important before starting a non running old engine.
Not to be rude or say that you don't know what your doing. But maybe your overlooking something. Have you consulted a old skool mechanic who can maybe help pinpoint the issue? So that you don't keep spending time and money?
You are so adorable 😍. I don't think i ever seen you frustrated and you weren't even mad lol. So cute. Even then you still manage to have a positive spirit. Hoping for the best
I have Built and rebuilt many ford engines and I'd say 99.9% chance the timing cover is rotted out and is leaking water into the oil. My advice is don't buy a new one, grind the rot spots till they're silver and have them welded back.
Even if the engine is massively blown out, it probably will start. Its why all the "will it start" videos start. It usually will even with a piston with a giant hole in it. So, assume the thing will start, its more about will it be a usable engine when it does start. Check the spark first at the plug with a tester. Then the timing using the timing marks and confirm the piston not just up, but up in time with the cam, usually by checking the valve train as you turn it by hand and watch the valves. Then maybe starting spray instead of just dumping gas in there. It takes a LONG time to get all that sorted. The carb wont be right, so you will only get a second or 2 even when it does work unless you rebuild the carb. You need a lot of battery or a charger constantly on it. Cranking for minutes before you get something is expected.
Okay Doris those older cars can be difficult to work because of the years and bolts can get seized up t looks like you have a oil pan that is seized to the block try some penetrante over night set come back in the morning try the removal again
Unfortunately, it looks like you poured fuel straight through, and into the engine itself- that would have just washed the cylinder walls more than anything. The easiest way to do what you were trying to do, is just spray either starting fluid or brake cleaner into the same ports, you want about 2-3 seconds of back and forth into each well. But, before you go that far, you need to make sure that you are getting spark. Take the lead wire off the coil, and just hook it into a spark plug. Hit the starter with the ignition on, and see if that sparks. If it does, hook that back into the coil, and then pick another wire off the distributor that would be going to a cylinder, and test that. if you see spark on that (and maybe several others just to test), your ignition system is looking good, and if you look at the witness marks for timing on the crankshaft with a timing light hooked to #1 (passenger side, first cylinder), it should flash as it spins over, and hopefully it's very near the mark. This si where a dial-back indicator light is tremendously helpful (get the analog one with the spin knob.. it makes reading the timing, and setting it all the more easy without having to hit buttons the entire time you are pointing it at the engine). You may also need to check out the wiring to the ballast on the fender, and make sure that is correct. Ignition on a ford is slightly tricky, as it needs to see something close to 12v- so you want to take a read from the terminals of coil, to make sure it's close to 12v while it's cranking..
I have a question about oil. What experiences do you have with this type of oil and old muscle cars? Do vehicles have to run on old, non-special types of oil that are new but made for classic cars? Don't these vehicles need a classic type of oil with an oil viscosity of 10W-30 or 10W-40 and a high zinc content?
Water in the oil is not a good sign, could be a head gasket. You can put a pressure tester on the radiator and if it's loosing pressure with no outside signs of a leak it's likely going into the engine. Shouldn't really stop it from starting though (if the engine is turning over and without making horrible sounds like a rod is out or something internal) If turning over could be fuel system or ignition problem. If it won't crank possibly starter or starter solenoid. Like I say though, water in the crankcase is never a good sign. Would need to know more about why it quit running or starting to begin with.
What is your goal with this car? Are you trying to keep it period correct? If not look for a 5.0 in a salvage yard or buy a wreck with a 5.0 . Did you ever mention what’s in the car now? 302, 351 ?
You should have used a shoulder extension. That way, your arm would have been a little bit more sprayer. You would have more power to push-up to release that bolt.
Might want to invest in a good battery maintainer. Also verify a healthy spark and fuel pressure. Without either one, an engine can crank, but wont catch. As a general rule, fuel, fire and compression are needed. Regardless, this engine most likely needs a rebuild or replacement.
Spark yes, checked the distributor and the spark plug confirmed it. As for fuel pressure, couldn’t confirm since I could never start it up. Pouring fuel in the carb was to attempted that step. But you’re right, engine is done and it’s coming out anyways.
@@woman.driven Okay, but before pulling the engine, somewhere along the line you'll need to figure why the start circuit from the key ignition is dead, which I commented on the previous video. I'm assuming on the start relay the S terminal on the left side is connected to the red w/blue trace wire and the I terminal on the right side connected to the brown wire, correct?
Be very careful with putting fuel into the carburetor directly without the air filter. A backfire could send the burning gasoline all over the engine and you! 😉
Am I missing something here? Shouldn’t the Rotor point directly at Cylinder number one for top dead centre? Or are you just saying timed because you have a correct firing order?
lol.. no, I rotated the crank until I felt pressure in the cylinder as it was coming up to tdc. There is a mark on the crank to line up. So I followed that from many videos and dropped the distributor in. I adjusted the rotor slight left and right it finally went in to where it’s pointed. I attempted it several times by advancing or pulling timing between 6 and 8 degrees. Nothing worked.
@@woman.driven call me crazy but I think you need to pull the distributor and rotate the shaft so the rotor points as close to cylinder one as possible for tdc (fINGER in HOLE lol feeling for piston at top)…then put firing order accordingly.😉😎
Windsor motors are crap, the Cleveland engine can take much more power. Summit has packages of my specials and the Cleveland can handle way more power.
Muchos problemas que se solucionan fácilmente primero quita la marcha vieja e instala una marcha moderna que fácilmente se cambia y te quitas de ocupar baterías más grandes segundo si el platino está cerrado no habrá chispa y nunca arranca si te presenta problema hacerlo manualmente ajústalo utilizando un calibrador de hoja y que quede a 18 milésimas si eso no soluciona quita el condensador y un módulo tfi de la Ford modelo 94 te hará la función de encendido electrónico moderno si no tienes de modo el distribuidor electronico una última rocía un poco de thinner en el carburador si el distribuidor está bien instalado funcionará Sin problemas si tienes duda sobre la bomba mecánica o le leva del árbol de levas que le mueve instálale una eléctrica el auto funcionará y será más confiable saludos😊😊😊
I fear the mixture that came out of the oil pan,does not bode well for the condition of the engine.Possible blown head gasket,or worse,a cracked block.The engine could be the reason it sat for so long.
"Mustang Doris, uh, uh Guess you better slow your Mustang down Oh, Lord, what I say now Mustang Doris, now baby, oh Lord Guess you better slow your Mustang down, huh, oh yeah! "
With the amount of water you drained out of it. It's junk, surprised it was not totally seized up. Even if you had gotten it started with the choke wide open like that. It would have locked up and been knocking like mad. Just pull it, you will either have to replace it. Or spend some bucks to rebuild it!
I agree, this was just an experiment for me to attempt my hand at it. I had low hopes at it starting after the water. Pulling the engine was always the plan and work on rebuilding
I assumed it was, but that metal was very very soft and I didn’t want to add another issue that would prevent me from another start up attempt. It was literally bending like a soft gum wrapper
Ms Doris you got to understand that you win 🏆 some and loose some nobody’s perfect you got this hun never 👎 give up hope even tho you wasted all that money to fix the mustang up but you be alright 👍 your rich you got money to throw away like that
I was hoping but didn’t have high hopes after the water in the oil pan. But I was still curious. Wasted time only if I didn’t learn anything. Which I did. 😁
Is that the numbers matching 302?? If it has c9 heads (1969) they may still have valve seats for leaded fuel. Decent pre emission heads. Build up a boss 302 style engine it will rip. Solid lifters for some nice 8k pulls
I guess we’ll know when I pull it all apart. I’m guessing it should be as the car is as is. Nothing was replaced besides the carb according to the previous owner
First thing u need is a strong battery
I think using a rubber mallet would help remove that oil pan. Just try and hit all around it. I use it on just about everything when I'm working on my car even to remove the wheel rotors. Great tool to have laying around.
Thanks for sharing Doris, and I'll see you in the next video.
I helped a co-worker start a similar year mustang after a long sit and it didn't go so well. Turns out the cam was stuck to the cam bearings so when it freed up the bearings were damaged. It ended up starving one bank of lifters and the valve train for oil and ate a bunch of rocker studs in the process. In hind sight we should have pulled the distributer and pre-primed the oil before attempting the start.
It’s one of those things. How could one really know? 😀
@woman.driven Yea, you never know... I've resurrected dozens of cars that have sat for years or decades...for the most part unless they had issues before it was parked they will run...it's usually not pretty at first 😂. Usually lots of smoke and the lifters are often stuck, but putting some Seafoam in the crank cade and just letting it idle for a while usually clears it up. All that gunk in the oil looks like maybe coolant got in there, which would indicate a bad head gasket or a crack in a head or the block. On stuff that's sat that long also expect the brake system to need a rebuild and don't be surprised if the gas tank is rusted out if it had fuel in it.
Experience my friend @@woman.driven
Doris don’t give up you can do it. I know I owned a 68. Remember ( FORD. FIXED OR REPAIRED DAILY ) YOU CAN DO IT ❤️
The number one plug is on the battery side. The way it is now is 180 degrees out. Also the cylinders are 1 thru 4 on the same side as the battery. 5 thru 8 are on the driver side
Doris, I love your enthusiasm and willingness to try anything. With water in the oil, twice now, the situation does not look good. Before you pull the engine, I'd recommend doing a compression test and a cooling system pressure test. That will probably reveal the cause of the water in the oil. It may still mean removing the engine, but you will have more knowledge about what to look for, when you take it apart. Keep up the great work.
P.S. Those auxiliary jacks are called "spin jacks."
Is she white or Mexican
start with the basics put everything back the way its suppose to be,,ignition coil on engine secured,make sure distributor is on the #1 also there should be a mark on the damper to verify that its on top dead center or 0 degree,get a new battery or steal one from the other cars,,you need a test light 1.99 at Harborfreight and a spark checker,or just remove #1 plug while cranking see if there's spark you can do this with the coil as well if you remove ignition wire from distributor,you can use a spark plug to verify spark if you don't have a spark checker,don't give up you can get this engine started but probably going to need head gaskets,main thing is to make sure you have spark and fuel.
At least the crank is turning and the pistons are going up & down. As others said, get a stronger/longer lasting battery and run it longer on the starter to see if it catches. When you poured gas in the carb it looks like you poured it straight in? Try filling the reservoir on it then get a helper to pour a little in as you turn it over (wear gloves & safety glasses in case of a backfire!). If you do replace the engine even a basic Ford V-8 crate engine would work great in it. Keep at it, its a nice car with a pretty pristine body so you have a great car to start with.
Battery was new and I feel it was just draining after so many attempts in my last video, in between and this past video. I poured the fuel in two separate areas and pull the throttle by hand and nothing. I’m just glad I tried most before now working to pull the engine out.
At least the Camaro starts and runs that's a least one win. You are fun to watch keep smiling.
A low mileage 5.0 motor would be awesome. 😎
On the next build 😀
Hey Doris, you should concider getting a good pair of safety glasses. All the strong vibrations rain down all the rust particles and you need to keep those pretty eyes in tact.
Hi Doris, you are on the right track. I hope you didn't pay too much for that car. Pulling the engine & tranny is the best solution. Be prepared for a total rebuild. Fortunately parts are plentiful !
Check to make sure the points are not stuck together. They tend to stick when stored for a long time
4:39-40....ooohhh it's gonna FIT 😉
Looking forward to your removal of the old engine 😊👍
Good choice!! If that engine has been sittings that long. Just go ahead and rebuild it. I have a 67 289 engine you have the correct timing on the distributor.
The 289 can be a high revving beast if you build it right. High compression forged pistons, lighter connecting rods, and roller everything.
Valiant attempt by "get it done, Doris"!!! It may seem frustrating but push forward, it will all be worth it with this beautiful classic! Best wishes and blessings to you!
Yes! Thank you! Hoping for it to start in the future
You had it, that skip before the battery died was one of the cylinders firing.
I'm surprised it turns at all.
That is a thirsty beast, a useful "shot" of gas in that carb is probably in the 4 ounce range (and even that's only going to get you a few seconds of runtime, at the cost of a possible blowtorch coming out of the carb if it ignites in the intake)
Looks like some frame and cross member restoration is in the cards while the engine and trans are out. This looks savable for sure. It will be a long but well worth it project.
A lot is in the cards lol. Once the engine is out, I’ll look into handling all the other stuff to fix.
Did you make sure that you can rotate the crank? To me it sounds like the compression is off that starters to weak to turn the flywheel.. so it makes me wonder but I think you’re right. This engine is toast.
God bless you, good luck with that mustang!!!!!!
It's called the Sting of the Stang !!! 1967 Mustang Owner !!! I miss My Baby !!!
First thing you need a good charged battery. Then check if there is spark. If not check for voltage at the coil. If there is voltage clean or replace the points. Watch some videos of resurrections to see how it is done.
Oh I’ve seen them. The battery is new. It’s just been used and used trying to crank this engine several times between videos and on videos.
Kick that motor to the curb. Looks like someone has been in there before trying to get it running. As long as it's not a numbers matching block to the car who needs it. Plus a shiny new Coyote or LS would be way better.
Since day one of you channel you've always had that #LetsGiveItAShot attitude and that's why I started following. Since then you have always given everything at try! ❤❤❤ you chica! Keep conquering your challenges! You gonna try and rebuild the engine at some point? That era engine is much easier to work on especially when on a stand vs in the car.
I appreciate that. Can’t hurt to try at this point lol. But yes, I’ll pull it, take it apart and then have a shop prep it all for me to assemble. I think at that point the engine will be fine, it’s all the other stuff like wiring that may be an issue
If you need parts for older vehicles theres a parts catalog i found that contains all parts needed for your old vehicle that being a mustang.
Once you got milk from the oil pan the second time I knew the engine had to come out. What great content it would be to examine the engine when you remove the valve covers, the valley pan and the heads!!! I would love to see what the inside of that motor looks like.
lol.. yea I knew, just didn’t want to see it again haha. We’ll all get to see what it looks like when I pull it and open it up. 😁
I love all you do Doris. But it would be wise to remove the engine and do basic maintenance to get it to start. A through inspection is important before starting a non running old engine.
Not to be rude or say that you don't know what your doing. But maybe your overlooking something. Have you consulted a old skool mechanic who can maybe help pinpoint the issue? So that you don't keep spending time and money?
You are so adorable 😍. I don't think i ever seen you frustrated and you weren't even mad lol. So cute. Even then you still manage to have a positive spirit. Hoping for the best
I have Built and rebuilt many ford engines and I'd say 99.9% chance the timing cover is rotted out and is leaking water into the oil. My advice is don't buy a new one, grind the rot spots till they're silver and have them welded back.
Hay que revisar la compresión del motor.
Even if the engine is massively blown out, it probably will start. Its why all the "will it start" videos start. It usually will even with a piston with a giant hole in it. So, assume the thing will start, its more about will it be a usable engine when it does start. Check the spark first at the plug with a tester. Then the timing using the timing marks and confirm the piston not just up, but up in time with the cam, usually by checking the valve train as you turn it by hand and watch the valves. Then maybe starting spray instead of just dumping gas in there. It takes a LONG time to get all that sorted. The carb wont be right, so you will only get a second or 2 even when it does work unless you rebuild the carb. You need a lot of battery or a charger constantly on it. Cranking for minutes before you get something is expected.
Beautiful car remember that model in high school
Battery.... NEW baby!!!
Okay Doris those older cars can be difficult to work because of the years and bolts can get seized up t looks like you have a oil pan that is seized to the block try some penetrante over night set come back in the morning try the removal again
Do a couple of soon oil changes use marvel mystery oil works great to remove old tarnishe tar grease oil from inside oil galleys
Doris,you rock! You need a new battery to be able to tell. Maybe take a spark plug out and see if you have spark, but that's just me. Peace ✌️
1969 ford mustang 335 hp @ 5200 rpm.
Unfortunately, it looks like you poured fuel straight through, and into the engine itself- that would have just washed the cylinder walls more than anything.
The easiest way to do what you were trying to do, is just spray either starting fluid or brake cleaner into the same ports, you want about 2-3 seconds of back and forth into each well.
But, before you go that far, you need to make sure that you are getting spark. Take the lead wire off the coil, and just hook it into a spark plug. Hit the starter with the ignition on, and see if that sparks. If it does, hook that back into the coil, and then pick another wire off the distributor that would be going to a cylinder, and test that. if you see spark on that (and maybe several others just to test), your ignition system is looking good, and if you look at the witness marks for timing on the crankshaft with a timing light hooked to #1 (passenger side, first cylinder), it should flash as it spins over, and hopefully it's very near the mark. This si where a dial-back indicator light is tremendously helpful (get the analog one with the spin knob.. it makes reading the timing, and setting it all the more easy without having to hit buttons the entire time you are pointing it at the engine).
You may also need to check out the wiring to the ballast on the fender, and make sure that is correct. Ignition on a ford is slightly tricky, as it needs to see something close to 12v- so you want to take a read from the terminals of coil, to make sure it's close to 12v while it's cranking..
Suggestion: A segment on next years Performance models when the info is available.
I have a question about oil. What experiences do you have with this type of oil and old muscle cars? Do vehicles have to run on old, non-special types of oil that are new but made for classic cars? Don't these vehicles need a classic type of oil with an oil viscosity of 10W-30 or 10W-40 and a high zinc content?
❤❤❤ iwas waitng i need a mechanic to my vintage car
With that much water you need to check the oil pump and the lower end
Water in the oil is not a good sign, could be a head gasket. You can put a pressure tester on the radiator and if it's loosing pressure with no outside signs of a leak it's likely going into the engine. Shouldn't really stop it from starting though (if the engine is turning over and without making horrible sounds like a rod is out or something internal) If turning over could be fuel system or ignition problem. If it won't crank possibly starter or starter solenoid. Like I say though, water in the crankcase is never a good sign.
Would need to know more about why it quit running or starting to begin with.
What is your goal with this car? Are you trying to keep it period correct? If not look for a 5.0 in a salvage yard or buy a wreck with a 5.0 . Did you ever mention what’s in the car now? 302, 351 ?
Beautiful and dedicated great combination
You can do it gorgeous, i have faith in you
this time it was not rotating fast enough to start . If that engine numbers match car numbers ,you want to keep that engine
It wants a coyote engine in it... Awesome video.... you awesome! 😉
Check all of your grounds to the battery
You should have used a shoulder extension. That way, your arm would have been a little bit more sprayer. You would have more power to push-up to release that bolt.
Sorry about the spelling but since my stroke I've been trying to text with voice text
Might want to invest in a good battery maintainer. Also verify a healthy spark and fuel pressure. Without either one, an engine can crank, but wont catch. As a general rule, fuel, fire and compression are needed. Regardless, this engine most likely needs a rebuild or replacement.
Spark yes, checked the distributor and the spark plug confirmed it. As for fuel pressure, couldn’t confirm since I could never start it up. Pouring fuel in the carb was to attempted that step. But you’re right, engine is done and it’s coming out anyways.
@@woman.driven Okay, but before pulling the engine, somewhere along the line you'll need to figure why the start circuit from the key ignition is dead, which I commented on the previous video. I'm assuming on the start relay the S terminal on the left side is connected to the red w/blue trace wire and the I terminal on the right side connected to the brown wire, correct?
How can i get front row seats for the live show?
Awesome shirt. 👌
BB in Colombia we said choquelo because that thing has carburador
Be very careful with putting fuel into the carburetor directly without the air filter. A backfire could send the burning gasoline all over the engine and you! 😉
Love the video, keep at it 😊❤️
Thank you! Will do!
She looks like she knows what she's doing
It wanted to fire, but the battery let you down. Try jumping the battery.
K
Love that wiggle action!
😍
Doris For Ur 69 Nortchback Mustang Really Need A Modern Power Gt E5.0 Stang Engine & Five Speed Transmission
Hold up Dee, did you just put Tru Fuel 50:1 in your carb?
Don't give up it wants to run
Am I missing something here? Shouldn’t the Rotor point directly at Cylinder number one for top dead centre? Or are you just saying timed because you have a correct firing order?
lol.. no, I rotated the crank until I felt pressure in the cylinder as it was coming up to tdc. There is a mark on the crank to line up. So I followed that from many videos and dropped the distributor in. I adjusted the rotor slight left and right it finally went in to where it’s pointed. I attempted it several times by advancing or pulling timing between 6 and 8 degrees. Nothing worked.
@@woman.driven call me crazy but I think you need to pull the distributor and rotate the shaft so the rotor points as close to cylinder one as possible for tdc (fINGER in HOLE lol feeling for piston at top)…then put firing order accordingly.😉😎
Remove the spark plugs and crank it. To see if it spins freely
Probably has water on top of the pistons. Should’ve pulled plugs out and then try to crank it but I’m sure that engines toast.
Probably. Didn’t check and I should have. I also wanted to check compression as I had the tool on the side for me to check and I forgot
@@woman.driven Keep at it, I can’t wait to see how it looks when you take it apart.
Windsor motors are crap, the Cleveland engine can take much more power. Summit has packages of my specials and the Cleveland can handle way more power.
Muchos problemas que se solucionan fácilmente primero quita la marcha vieja e instala una marcha moderna que fácilmente se cambia y te quitas de ocupar baterías más grandes segundo si el platino está cerrado no habrá chispa y nunca arranca si te presenta problema hacerlo manualmente ajústalo utilizando un calibrador de hoja y que quede a 18 milésimas si eso no soluciona quita el condensador y un módulo tfi de la Ford modelo 94 te hará la función de encendido electrónico moderno si no tienes de modo el distribuidor electronico una última rocía un poco de thinner en el carburador si el distribuidor está bien instalado funcionará
Sin problemas si tienes duda sobre la bomba mecánica o le leva del árbol de levas que le mueve instálale una eléctrica el auto funcionará y será más confiable saludos😊😊😊
You need to sort your battery out. The starter motor is hardly turning.
I fear the mixture that came out of the oil pan,does not bode well for the condition of the engine.Possible blown head gasket,or worse,a cracked block.The engine could be the reason it sat for so long.
Looking forward to you pulling the engine and finding out why it would not start.
Oh yes.. I am very curious to see what is causing this engine to embarrass me lol
@@woman.driven good morning Doris…. A rebuilt 302 that you will rebuild with upgraded parts will do you good
@@woman.driven Well hopefully it will be fixable.
It's okay don't give up you will get it.
Thank you 😊🥰
Could have taken an impact hammer. Sand filled not metal. Should have tried starting fluid
Gap the new spark plugs correctly.
Beautiful
I use a new battery and a engine starter shop bsttery charger
The Mustang is just telling you Doris give me new engine and yeet this old one off a cliff or something.
Pollution alert!
Compression test will save you time and POTENTIALLY money as well
"Mustang Doris, uh, uh
Guess you better slow your Mustang down
Oh, Lord, what I say now
Mustang Doris, now baby, oh Lord
Guess you better slow your Mustang down, huh, oh yeah! "
A 👑 🏆💐🎉🥇 for your efforts
A strong battery would help cause it’s not cranking over fast enough to fire
The attempts a show are a few, it’s cranked really strong in my first video and also other times.
It sounds like it is kitting back on the starter, so it not time right
new engine for sure
Welcome to a Man's World !!!
With the amount of water you drained out of it. It's junk, surprised it was not totally seized up. Even if you had gotten it started with the choke wide open like that. It would have locked up and been knocking like mad.
Just pull it, you will either have to replace it. Or spend some bucks to rebuild it!
I agree, this was just an experiment for me to attempt my hand at it. I had low hopes at it starting after the water. Pulling the engine was always the plan and work on rebuilding
Doris that's normal for that oil pan to be stuck on there like that you just going to have to pry bar it off of there that's completely normal
I assumed it was, but that metal was very very soft and I didn’t want to add another issue that would prevent me from another start up attempt. It was literally bending like a soft gum wrapper
Get a jump box on it
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Try pry it a little not to much force and a mallet will do the trick its seized to the block 😮😂
Mustang chose you for a reason!
lol… I hope its because it hopes I can get it back to life.. not because it wants to stay dead lol.
Charge or replace the batterie.
In the last video on this car, the
Engine turned over at the same speeed==to slow.
Ms Doris you got to understand that you win 🏆 some and loose some nobody’s perfect you got this hun never 👎 give up hope even tho you wasted all that money to fix the mustang up but you be alright 👍 your rich you got money to throw away like that
I was hoping but didn’t have high hopes after the water in the oil pan. But I was still curious. Wasted time only if I didn’t learn anything. Which I did. 😁
@@woman.driven yes 🙌 ma’am Ms Doris your most definitely 💯 right about that you always learn something new but you will get the hang of it hun
Is that the numbers matching 302?? If it has c9 heads (1969) they may still have valve seats for leaded fuel. Decent pre emission heads. Build up a boss 302 style engine it will rip. Solid lifters for some nice 8k pulls
I guess we’ll know when I pull it all apart. I’m guessing it should be as the car is as is. Nothing was replaced besides the carb according to the previous owner
@@woman.driven awesome! Get a Motorcraft or a holley 4bbl 600cfm is pretty good on a stock 302
To rebuild a 302 and convert it to boss302 will need a cleveland style 2v heads and cleveland manifold to make it work on a 302 Windsor block
Make Long Videos Great Again
what ? It does crank . Test battery , starter wire
You did great. 👍🏾
Thank you! 🤗
I’m glad pushed forward positively Doris, we’ve all been there before. Can’t wait to see this mustang run.
You and me both! 😊
Don't give up mate fly me there Il get the old girl fired up :)