I want to thank you, I have never painted with an HVLP gun before but I have watched a lot of your videos, everything from how to setup your gun to doing clear coat. I actually found your channel when I was researching a rattle can paint job for my farm truck. You gave me the confidence to try HVLP and I painted my truck the other day and it came out even better than I hoped! THANK YOU for your time and energy on training us novices!
Hello y’all I seen you used the iwata ws400 series 2.I wondering where you got it because I can’t get one sent to the states. Please let me would be much appreciated thank you
I used a drum sander on my restoration and I agree the disc was faster, however the drum was more controlled and the metal was a beautiful finish when done. I was removing 6 paint jobs on this car and this was a great way to get off all the paint. I used the Summit Racing version drum sander because it has a vacuum port. I used a shop vac with my dust deputy on a 5 gallon bucket and kept my entire garage clean. Without this it would have been very dirty process. The combination of the drum sander and the dust deputy was an inexpensive way to do this and not get dirt everywhere. Highly recommend the drum sander when removing all paint.
Trying to get 5 layers of paint/primer off of an old metal glider. The stripper was like whistling in the wind. Son gave me his drum finisher with the low grit scrubber and what a difference! Game changer for his old lady.
I bought the harbor freight Bauer version of that eastwood sct for $119 sale. Works great to strip down my hood and roof without going through a bunch of sandpaper
The Contour SCT drum sander is my Go To tool for paint stripping, did my 2004 Crown Vick LX Sport which is a Huge car in a little over 4 hours. Then used an orbital with 180 to refine the scratches. Then used the Eastwood roll-on sealer and then primer with Awsome Results for this Week End Worrior :) I finally got a big air compressor so now the Crown Vick LX Sport will be repainted in original Chestnut Brown :)
I started sanding my Integra hood to prep it for wrap, and ended up finding up to 5 layers of paint on the hood! I ended up using my old Porter Cable 7424 DA polisher/sander with a 5” Velcro backing plate, interface pad and 60 grit discs to get the job done getting the paint off. Was pretty messy but I worked outside in open air and it wasn’t too bad.
Ive been seeing many using a sanding disc on a rotary polisher with very good results. Makes use of a tool you may already have and does seem very efficient.
I recently did this over the weekend but I used chemical stripper and the use of these tools as well had painted my hood years ago with 1k products and it was clogging up my paper but eventually got it to metal and dtm high build
Use the rotary sander to knock the paint off about 60% then use the SCT to finish up. I use a cheap box fan to blow across whatever panel I'm stripping to help keep metal cool and also to blow dust.
Thanks for the comparison. In my experience the SCT works much better when stripping multiple layers and or thick filler. Although I have not used that DA I have used other 7" sanders and they always seem to take forever with 80 grit tempting me to use 36 grit which isn't exactly smart either. The dust is also a factor and I can do entire vehicles with one drum.
That comparison was awesome. Been debating buying the Bauer drum sander for a few household projects. But after this video I'm gonna save and buy the eastwood model. Big thanks
Everything I've been able to read has me convinced the Bauer and Eastwood SCTs are the exact same tool with different color plastic. The drums are interchangeble. I picked up the Bauer to strip the sheet metal base of a bandsaw I'm restoring, and it worked really well. Beyond my expectations.
Brian, in one of your videos you talked about how a bumper paint cracks if it's not prep correctly. Can you do a videos on how to remove Cracked paint from a bumper? I'm really enjoying the new serie of short videos. Take care.
A little late to the party, however, this tool is the next best thing to, chemical stripper, which was forbidden by the guvment. We do lots of classic restos, and the SCT is the shit, for stripping cars in a day, without the hazards or chemical or complete mess of media blasting, which can change the properties of metal. We also do late model collision and I'd think twice and a third time about using any rotary tool, on current vehicles. The old Aircraft Stripper original formula was very useful.
The SCT cuts cleaner, but I had no regrets after buying my geared Snap On sander similar to the dewalt. Stripping those toyota 040 and 070 recalls were a pain with the sct cause it's heavy.
I appreciate this vid alot ! I'm stripping and wrapping my car myself so this made me so much more confident. I just have one question. How often do you have to replace the drum on the SCT? I'm working on an 01 Integra
I used a drum sander to remove all old paint and rust on a very old vehicle. The electric sander that I use didn’t remove as efficiently in that instance. Both serve purpose.
your videos are very helpful ,thanks. restoring question...striping down paint on e30 industrial paint stripper or sand down with DA and sander? i ruled out sand blasting since most say it warps the metal and you can never get all sand out of cavities.
New chem strippers do not work as effectively as the old stuff but in the long run its the best way to strip and doesn't change the metal or damage it in any way. Especially if working with softer metals like aluminum. And of course chem is dust free.
You left out the best manual stripping option; the 4 1/2" Polycarbide Abrasive Wheel which looks to be made of a similar Material as the ‘ drum ‘ striper. Much less chance of heat build up and warpage than the sandpaper disc. While leaving clean smooth metal exposed as desired. Phillip Hall
By far the most effective, but it disintegrates astoundingly quick. I used a wheel like that on my angle grinder (12k rpm) and I got a VERY small portion of metal cleaned up from factory paint. The wheel became very worn at the tip and slanted towards the centre, so you could no longer use it in any meaningful way while still having a bit of materiial left. The wheel cost me $5 but based on the surface area it cleaned, it's too expensive. If you're a shop and need to strip cars super quick and you got the money, by far it's the best. But as a budger DIYer it's not a feasible option unless you get like 100 diiscs for a super good price.
Great video. Any chance you can make video on fixing aluminum hoods that went through an engine bay fire. But still restorable. It warped in some areas. A body shop gave me a ridiculous quote to fix it. They said they would have to do heat and cold shrinking etc. That's why it was so expensive. But I didn't go through with it.
Thank you for the priceless education! Before I strip the paint off my NB Miata hood and trunk lid, I want to ask if I need to be mindful that the hood is all aluminum. Are there any "dos" and "don'ts" specific to this aluminum hood? Thank you in advance. Keep the vids coming, they are so helpful.
I prepped and painted my 1990 Toyota pickup with Eastwood's black epoxy primer. It came out great. I liked the color so much I decided to just spray Eastwood's European 2-part Clear directly over it. It also came out awesome.. Unfortunately, it was a big mistake. In a little over a year, all the clear started flaking off. The primer and clear are not compatible. Now I have a big flakey mess. Do you have any thoughts about how to get all the clear off without damaging the primer coat? Aircraft stripper maybe? Thanks.
Dual action sander... what you call a rotary sander.. is great for flat surfaces. The drum sander is far superior for curved surfaces and for diy'ers. It's overall better for 95% of situations.
I have learned so much from your videos! I’ve been wondering about the most efficient way to strip paint so this one was right on time. Have you done any painting with a turbine system? I have a 4 stage that I was thinking about painting my truck with. I am interested in needle size selection and thinning requirements.
Bryan, i know you paint mostly hondas but have you ever sprayed the mazda color soul red crystal metallic? its a color im super interested in trying but everything ive read about it leads me to believe its a very complicated color to get right. Probably one of the prettiest red colors ive ever seen on a car in my opinion.
I like the SCT tool better. We recently bought the Bauer version at Harbor freight, and it seems to strip the old lacquer based paints much quicker than the DA.
I'm not sure if this an apples to apples comparison. The SCT has many different drums including an 80 grit drum. It also has a few different speed settings. Unless they changed it you appear to have it set well below max speed. It looks to me like you have it set around 3-3.5? Mine goes up to 6. I run it at 4.5-5 and it blows dust everywhere but I stripped a 1969 coronet hood clean in 20 minutes. That was with the black paint stripper drum. Also, at that speed I didn't need to apply additional pressure. The weight of the tool did the work. I think a better comparison would be to increase the speed and use the same abrasive on both tools.
Hey Brian, love your videos! I have a very stupid question. Why not use a paint stripper seems like a lot less work? Is there any benefit of using a sander?
Great videos from this paint society. You make it look easy. I like the finish from the from sander. What abrasive on the drum sander would be ok to go straight into epoxy ?
Brian, I had been using a HVLP guns for years. Lately more for spraying finish on interior doors and I am building some mudroom closets which I am spraying with oil-based paint. I was quite ignorant about setup and cleaning until I stumbled on your channel. Greatly improved my results! But I am struggling with getting the viscosity right for these non-automotive finishes. Can you comment on this, how to get the viscosity right for an HVLP and/or point to some good tools to measure/estimate viscosity?
I have a classic car that has that all over even worse than this car to the point the paint has started chipping off. The previous owner was spraying primer on the worst spots to prevent rust but I’d really like to get it all one color for now till I can get a pro paint job, if possible. Would doing something like this before painting damage the body? Or should I just sand as much roughness away as possible and spray over the grey primer for a quick fix?
I got halfway through stripping some 64 impala fenders with the Harbor freight version of the metal conditioner before I realized I had 55 gallons of methylene chloride in my powdercoat room, the HF tool works but it's so slow.
I have a question can you use the previous coats after you send them down a little bit as the primer without shooting primer so there’s still a bit of a layer of the previous paint if you’re gonna paint the same color?
I’m currently stripping my engine bay with a 2 inch sanding pad for weird spots and a sct 6:54 and a plethora of other tools but how do you make sure not to start taking away metal… I tested the sct on a test piece and it was taking away metal…is it all about rpm and keeping it moving?
Can you sand down to metal with 80 grit by bare hand, if time is not a factory and it's just a project car? Or is it too much to do by hand and this tool is necessary?
I'm a DIY'er, was that a 1K acid etch primer? if so why it instead of a epoxy primer? Is one better than the other? Thanks, always look forward to your videos.
Ok let’s turn speed down on the rotary tool. You reduce the speed of the sct instead of speeding up your movements Go full speed with both to have a fair comparison
Honestly, if that strip took 10min with the SCT, that's still faster than chemical stripper, back when chemical stripper worked. It left a nicer finish, you weren't swapping abrasives the whole time, less mess, and less of a chance of warping... I think that's almost a no brainer.
Good job. I have other way to remove paint. I use a Polish machine paper 80 and rpm are very slowly. Then paper live more, you dont have dust everyway and most important you dont heat a wood.
Brian, was curious if you knew how to purchase a paint mixing system with the toner’s, scale, and everything. I haven’t had any luck on finding how to purchase one. I’m not too picky with brand, just as long as it’s a good one. I know the most about ppg, as the shop I was in had ppg. But def open to others. Thanks.
Not only do I learn a lot form your videos I enjoy the videos man 🤛👊 I just had a quick question how do u sell like merch such as tools sandpaper on your webiste?
I used chemical stripper out side on a Camaro hood, that stuff was nasty and gave me a wicked buzz. Sanded the rest of the car to bare metal with a air d/a & 80 grit. Never used chemical stripper again.
I don't think I have seen a video talking about this, and wonder how long you can leave a primer before it needs the base coat? asking cause our project is primed, but now the base coat is backordered and won't be in for 2 months!
Have you ever used chamaeleon product? Its extremly cheap and works fine. You should check it out and mayby do a review. Used their 2k acrylic primer and workt perfect. Got one liter for just 19 dollars including hardner
I want to thank you, I have never painted with an HVLP gun before but I have watched a lot of your videos, everything from how to setup your gun to doing clear coat. I actually found your channel when I was researching a rattle can paint job for my farm truck. You gave me the confidence to try HVLP and I painted my truck the other day and it came out even better than I hoped! THANK YOU for your time and energy on training us novices!
Awesome. So happy to hear your successes!
Hello y’all I seen you used the iwata ws400 series 2.I wondering where you got it because I can’t get one sent to the states. Please let me would be much appreciated thank you
I used a drum sander on my restoration and I agree the disc was faster, however the drum was more controlled and the metal was a beautiful finish when done. I was removing 6 paint jobs on this car and this was a great way to get off all the paint. I used the Summit Racing version drum sander because it has a vacuum port. I used a shop vac with my dust deputy on a 5 gallon bucket and kept my entire garage clean. Without this it would have been very dirty process. The combination of the drum sander and the dust deputy was an inexpensive way to do this and not get dirt everywhere. Highly recommend the drum sander when removing all paint.
Trying to get 5 layers of paint/primer off of an old metal glider. The stripper was like whistling in the wind. Son gave me his drum finisher with the low grit scrubber and what a difference! Game changer for his old lady.
I bought the harbor freight Bauer version of that eastwood sct for $119 sale. Works great to strip down my hood and roof without going through a bunch of sandpaper
Did you use 40grit drum?
@@BengyM I believe so . It’s the roughest one out of the three that comes in the box.
This thing is so loud my neighbors are complaining…
The Contour SCT drum sander is my Go To tool for paint stripping, did my 2004 Crown Vick LX Sport which is a Huge car in a little over 4 hours. Then used an orbital with 180 to refine the scratches. Then used the Eastwood roll-on sealer and then primer with Awsome Results for this Week End Worrior :) I finally got a big air compressor so now the Crown Vick LX Sport will be repainted in original Chestnut Brown :)
I started sanding my Integra hood to prep it for wrap, and ended up finding up to 5 layers of paint on the hood! I ended up using my old Porter Cable 7424 DA polisher/sander with a 5” Velcro backing plate, interface pad and 60 grit discs to get the job done getting the paint off. Was pretty messy but I worked outside in open air and it wasn’t too bad.
Ive been seeing many using a sanding disc on a rotary polisher with very good results. Makes use of a tool you may already have and does seem very efficient.
What about with a random orbital?
They make the roller on the sct in a 4.5" grinder attachment. Works well with same level of dust control.
I recently did this over the weekend but I used chemical stripper and the use of these tools as well had painted my hood years ago with 1k products and it was clogging up my paper but eventually got it to metal and dtm high build
Love you no nonsense videos. Great presenting style. Thanks Brian
Bought an SCT earlier this year, I love it. That said, in tighter areas it's limited.
Use the rotary sander to knock the paint off about 60% then use the SCT to finish up. I use a cheap box fan to blow across whatever panel I'm stripping to help keep metal cool and also to blow dust.
Super thankful for content creators like this teaching us valuable skills literally for free saving us in the long run
Thanks for the comparison. In my experience the SCT works much better when stripping multiple layers and or thick filler. Although I have not used that DA I have used other 7" sanders and they always seem to take forever with 80 grit tempting me to use 36 grit which isn't exactly smart either. The dust is also a factor and I can do entire vehicles with one drum.
That comparison was awesome. Been debating buying the Bauer drum sander for a few household projects. But after this video I'm gonna save and buy the eastwood model. Big thanks
Everything I've been able to read has me convinced the Bauer and Eastwood SCTs are the exact same tool with different color plastic. The drums are interchangeble. I picked up the Bauer to strip the sheet metal base of a bandsaw I'm restoring, and it worked really well. Beyond my expectations.
@@charlielong262 sweet thanks. I'll probably pock up a Bauer this weekend
I think I’ll grab a Bauer drum sander also, I’ve got several of their tools and all of them have been great!
SCT is a great finisher, so this would be a case of start with one finish with the other.
Brian, in one of your videos you talked about how a bumper paint cracks if it's not prep correctly. Can you do a videos on how to remove Cracked paint from a bumper? I'm really enjoying the new serie of short videos. Take care.
A little late to the party, however, this tool is the next best thing to, chemical stripper, which was forbidden by the guvment. We do lots of classic restos, and the SCT is the shit, for stripping cars in a day, without the hazards or chemical or complete mess of media blasting, which can change the properties of metal. We also do late model collision and I'd think twice and a third time about using any rotary tool, on current vehicles. The old Aircraft Stripper original formula was very useful.
You can still get that stuff. It's reclassified as a gasket remover. But you have it order it online.
The SCT cuts cleaner, but I had no regrets after buying my geared Snap On sander similar to the dewalt. Stripping those toyota 040 and 070 recalls were a pain with the sct cause it's heavy.
Oh yea man. If you are doing those warranty jobs, you know all to well what works the best. I gotta try that tool
I appreciate this vid alot ! I'm stripping and wrapping my car myself so this made me so much more confident. I just have one question. How often do you have to replace the drum on the SCT? I'm working on an 01 Integra
Each tool has it's perks.
I know what I know because of this channel🔥🔥🔥
That's a cool tool. I think I will try that on my project. Thanks for the video
I used a drum sander to remove all old paint and rust on a very old vehicle. The electric sander that I use didn’t remove as efficiently in that instance. Both serve purpose.
your videos are very helpful ,thanks.
restoring question...striping down paint on e30 industrial paint stripper or sand down with DA and sander? i ruled out sand blasting since most say it warps the metal and you can never get all sand out of cavities.
Everyone doing this. Go buy CitriStrip! Cheap. Works like magic. Brush on the panel. Cover with plastic. Wait a few hours. Scrape it off effortlessly
New chem strippers do not work as effectively as the old stuff but in the long run its the best way to strip and doesn't change the metal or damage it in any way. Especially if working with softer metals like aluminum. And of course chem is dust free.
You left out the best manual stripping option; the 4 1/2" Polycarbide Abrasive Wheel which looks to be made of a similar Material as the ‘ drum ‘ striper. Much less chance of heat build up and warpage than the sandpaper disc. While leaving clean smooth metal exposed as desired.
Phillip Hall
By far the most effective, but it disintegrates astoundingly quick. I used a wheel like that on my angle grinder (12k rpm) and I got a VERY small portion of metal cleaned up from factory paint. The wheel became very worn at the tip and slanted towards the centre, so you could no longer use it in any meaningful way while still having a bit of materiial left. The wheel cost me $5 but based on the surface area it cleaned, it's too expensive. If you're a shop and need to strip cars super quick and you got the money, by far it's the best. But as a budger DIYer it's not a feasible option unless you get like 100 diiscs for a super good price.
@@skpro_jects
That is true if you do not lay it flat like a sanding wheel the edges will wear pretty quick.
Great video. Any chance you can make video on fixing aluminum hoods that went through an engine bay fire. But still restorable. It warped in some areas. A body shop gave me a ridiculous quote to fix it. They said they would have to do heat and cold shrinking etc. That's why it was so expensive. But I didn't go through with it.
Great comparison. Thanks Brian.
I've got one with a hoover it's quick and less dust
Thank you for the priceless education! Before I strip the paint off my NB Miata hood and trunk lid, I want to ask if I need to be mindful that the hood is all aluminum. Are there any "dos" and "don'ts" specific to this aluminum hood? Thank you in advance. Keep the vids coming, they are so helpful.
DUST EVERYWHERE 😂😂😂 man I hate that. I usually run a fan in my shop while sanding to suck the dust out.
I prepped and painted my 1990 Toyota pickup with Eastwood's black epoxy primer. It came out great. I liked the color so much I decided to just spray Eastwood's European 2-part Clear directly over it. It also came out awesome.. Unfortunately, it was a big mistake. In a little over a year, all the clear started flaking off. The primer and clear are not compatible. Now I have a big flakey mess. Do you have any thoughts about how to get all the clear off without damaging the primer coat? Aircraft stripper maybe?
Thanks.
The Eastwood drum wins hands down as the DA with 80 grit creates more heat more risk of buckling
Dual action sander... what you call a rotary sander.. is great for flat surfaces. The drum sander is far superior for curved surfaces and for diy'ers. It's overall better for 95% of situations.
what about an angle grinder?
flap disk vs paint tripping disk?
I have learned so much from your videos! I’ve been wondering about the most efficient way to strip paint so this one was right on time. Have you done any painting with a turbine system? I have a 4 stage that I was thinking about painting my truck with. I am interested in needle size selection and thinning requirements.
I haven’t done any
Turbine painting but have a few videos
Bryan, i know you paint mostly hondas but have you ever sprayed the mazda color soul red crystal metallic? its a color im super interested in trying but everything ive read about it leads me to believe its a very complicated color to get right. Probably one of the prettiest red colors ive ever seen on a car in my opinion.
I like the SCT tool better. We recently bought the Bauer version at Harbor freight, and it seems to strip the old lacquer based paints much quicker than the DA.
I just bought one of those “SCT style” sanders after seeing you use one on (the Yukon?).
Great tips!
i try to order your shop manual, but the site is showing error. i would be glad to have manual excellent information thank you great job.
What about appropriate media blasting or chemical stripping? How do they compare to the two tools featured here.
He has a video on that. There is a reason shops do not use chemical stripping. Too messy takes longer, and use to be very hazardous.
I'm not sure if this an apples to apples comparison. The SCT has many different drums including an 80 grit drum. It also has a few different speed settings. Unless they changed it you appear to have it set well below max speed. It looks to me like you have it set around 3-3.5? Mine goes up to 6. I run it at 4.5-5 and it blows dust everywhere but I stripped a 1969 coronet hood clean in 20 minutes. That was with the black paint stripper drum. Also, at that speed I didn't need to apply additional pressure. The weight of the tool did the work. I think a better comparison would be to increase the speed and use the same abrasive on both tools.
Very informative brother thank you!
Hey Brian, love your videos! I have a very stupid question. Why not use a paint stripper seems like a lot less work? Is there any benefit of using a sander?
You definitely could but this was a physical strip video
Great videos from this paint society. You make it look easy. I like the finish from the from sander. What abrasive on the drum sander would be ok to go straight into epoxy ?
Brian, I had been using a HVLP guns for years. Lately more for spraying finish on interior doors and I am building some mudroom closets which I am spraying with oil-based paint. I was quite ignorant about setup and cleaning until I stumbled on your channel. Greatly improved my results!
But I am struggling with getting the viscosity right for these non-automotive finishes. Can you comment on this, how to get the viscosity right for an HVLP and/or point to some good tools to measure/estimate viscosity?
Wow. I haven't seen crows feet since the days of lacquer automotive paint.
Thank you so much for this video سپاسگزارم
My man needs a bob and weave tutorial
I have a classic car that has that all over even worse than this car to the point the paint has started chipping off. The previous owner was spraying primer on the worst spots to prevent rust but I’d really like to get it all one color for now till I can get a pro paint job, if possible. Would doing something like this before painting damage the body? Or should I just sand as much roughness away as possible and spray over the grey primer for a quick fix?
Harbor Freight sells a drum sander, same as the Eastwood setup
Nice work there. Great comparison 👍🏼👍🏼
In the video what type of John, did you use? The most chores are the 120 grade?
I got halfway through stripping some 64 impala fenders with the Harbor freight version of the metal conditioner before I realized I had 55 gallons of methylene chloride in my powdercoat room, the HF tool works but it's so slow.
hi... Hey, question, can you remove the paint with some chemicals, if so, what are the pross and cons? Thank you
Great comparison! Thanks
Any tips for sanding the paint off of an aluminum hood? What about the base primer for the sanded aluminum surface?
Could you have used paint stripper to get the same results but without the dust and mess?
Laser paint removal is the best. Just a pity it's so expensive right now.
Great video. I learned something.
1999 toyota rav4 defective oem clearcoat . All coming off
Nice guyliner! (I know it was the paint dust!)
I have a question can you use the previous coats after you send them down a little bit as the primer without shooting primer so there’s still a bit of a layer of the previous paint if you’re gonna paint the same color?
In our case no because the paint was cracked throughout
@@PaintSociety what about in the cause where the paint is not cracking?
Sure you can leave it
On the drum sander, what grip did you started ?
I have a question my truck got painted 2 days ago and it is going to rain tomorrow. Will the rain damage the new paint?
they make multiple drums for the contour sander so if you want faster then maybe use a rougher drum? BTW, great video like always.
Richard. I used 40 grit. I assume the coarsest.
Easton finish quality is much better but paint shops make money by the hour. I would use the Easton if I had the choice on a restoration.
Im painting my classic car “Jet-stream blue” from the C6 corvette.. do I use a white or light grey primer?
Just curious what speed setting were you using on these tools???
Nice work with taking paint of !! Did you try laser to strip the paint?
I’m currently stripping my engine bay with a 2 inch sanding pad for weird spots and a sct 6:54 and a plethora of other tools but how do you make sure not to start taking away metal… I tested the sct on a test piece and it was taking away metal…is it all about rpm and keeping it moving?
Thank you for sharing knowledge ,but you didnt tell us how to clean the metall beffor we spreay the primer
I have heard you should etch prime before you lay filler, other people say not to. What do you think?
You can epoxy primer before filler. Either way should be fine. People debate this all the time
Would these tools be good to use for raptor/bed liner??
What about using the D/A for the heavy work followed by the drum for finishing?
You can do that.
Can you sand down to metal with 80 grit by bare hand, if time is not a factory and it's just a project car?
Or is it too much to do by hand and this tool is necessary?
I'm a DIY'er, was that a 1K acid etch primer? if so why it instead of a epoxy primer? Is one better than the other? Thanks, always look forward to your videos.
good question I wish he would answer
Epoxy is for larger panels. Etch is for small stuff
brake fluid is the quickest
Ever use sanding screens?
Could those tools be used on a fiberglass car ? Would the Eastman tool have an advantage ?
I wouldn’t use either. I would just use an AIR da
@@PaintSociety good advice - thanks again
Ok let’s turn speed down on the rotary tool. You reduce the speed of the sct instead of speeding up your movements
Go full speed with both to have a fair comparison
Honestly, if that strip took 10min with the SCT, that's still faster than chemical stripper, back when chemical stripper worked. It left a nicer finish, you weren't swapping abrasives the whole time, less mess, and less of a chance of warping... I think that's almost a no brainer.
Good job. I have other way to remove paint. I use a Polish machine paper 80 and rpm are very slowly. Then paper live more, you dont have dust everyway and most important you dont heat a wood.
I feel like it's worth it to invest in a DA with good dust collection if you're stripping down to metal.
@@zippythechicken Since most people who DIY paint in the same place they prep, it makes sense to minimize sanding dust.
good video
Brian, was curious if you knew how to purchase a paint mixing system with the toner’s, scale, and everything.
I haven’t had any luck on finding how to purchase one. I’m not too picky with brand, just as long as it’s a good one. I know the most about ppg, as the shop I was in had ppg.
But def open to others.
Thanks.
Not only do I learn a lot form your videos I enjoy the videos man 🤛👊 I just had a quick question how do u sell like merch such as tools sandpaper on your webiste?
I have an Amazon store on my description
Great video
Brian, surely chemical stripping is the best option for a job this size? I would not want to use the rotary sander, you can have gouges everywhere.
I used chemical stripper out side on a Camaro hood, that stuff was nasty and gave me a wicked buzz. Sanded the rest of the car to bare metal with a air d/a & 80 grit. Never used chemical stripper again.
Would you ever use a wire brush in an angle grinder?
No, it gets way to hot. Most angle grinders are in the 10,000 rpm range
I need to strip my ford aluminum hood. Is this going to be safe enough to not warp it for a beginner.
Yes just let the machine do the work
Use a Festool sander 2 pieces of sandpaper 95% of dust collection……
What should i use to clean all the dust off? Water is a no no rught?
Just blow it off and use solvent prep cleaner
@@PaintSociety thank you!
I don't think I have seen a video talking about this, and wonder how long you can leave a primer before it needs the base coat? asking cause our project is primed, but now the base coat is backordered and won't be in for 2 months!
Should be fine just give it a final sand before base
Have you done a video on how to avoid tiger stripes
Tons
Have you ever used chamaeleon product? Its extremly cheap and works fine. You should check it out and mayby do a review. Used their 2k acrylic primer and workt perfect. Got one liter for just 19 dollars including hardner
I bought a 1949 plymouth and removing the paint from it is a pain 12 houes of sanding and ive barley got anywhere
The SCT is nice, but man is it loud. I wear ear muffs when running it.
I actually meant to say that in the video. Very loud and heavy