Shane from Migro is one of the realest and honest Guys in the whole "growing industry" and i really like his additude and modest Nature. Much love from Germany
Being fairly new to indoor growing, Debacco University and Migro quickly became my go to for educational needs, so I'm thrilled with the collaborations. You've both set me up for success, and I thank you!
appreciate all of the information Debacco and Shane have shared over the years! With Ohio's new recreational law, I can put alot more of the information to work! thank you both! Peace and love always from Ohio!
Hey thanks u both for sharing lightning knowledge. More than hazardous spectrum optimization what I really wonder is : Optimal light intensity through the whole lifecycle. Lot of questions like : minimal intensity too keep mothers small ? what is best for clones ? During veg what intensity make them bushy or tall ? Does flip impacts light intensity ? when should it be max ? when to decrease it. Would really love to see a video on this topic, it will save power and make healthier plants. thx again
Lower intensity encourages stretch, which is almost always bad indoors. Clones need much less light, as they will burn in full flower or even veg lights. Don't hurt mothers with lower than normal light, just train them the size you want. YOU are controlling the branching. If it gets leggy that's your fault. Sorry that's out of order.
I always thought I want to try a setup that mimics what happens outside. = Start with lower intensity in the morning, increase, strongest during lunchtime and fade before "sunset" Also less intense for young plants = springtime,, increase as you go, most light for blooming, then decrease slightly for the last days/weeks when all growing is done..
I just got to say. I've been watching botanical UA-cam's for 20 years at least. Hundreds of producers on UA-cam that I watched a lot of them are really cool a lot of them are really stupid but out of all of them, DeBocco is the easiest to watch and learn. Keep up the good work.
@@DeBaccoUniversity I had to got to give respect for her respects to did not expect it when I first saw your first video but to be honest with you you rock you taught me tons
Thank you for all the knowledge shared, I am a young chemist from Chile who really likes growing marijuana, with your videos it is very easy to configure the best conditions and really understand what we are doing and why.
I recently watched a grow vid where the person was using a light with the new Samsung 301H diodes. This was his first grow using lights with those diodes and he was really impressed with how well the plants grew, etc and was attributing it to the new diodes. He said he had grown this particular strain more than once previously and this was the best it had ever done. Is it possible that the 301H diodes are a game changer?
I don't rely on one crop experience. The only way to know is to put side by side 2 plants with all the same except the light and see the result. And do it more then once. They are few people bothering doing the things right when it comes to compare plant growth. Migro is one of them and when I watch his experiments, I don't see any "super" spectrum light or led that would make a big difference.
I think most home growers want a full spectrum led. Now, for light wattage in a 4x4 space, I would use 800watt 650 if I had to. You want your Canopy all of it getting 800 to 1000 ppf in flower.
My leaves are yellowing pH is spot on hav cal/mag with iron so only thing I think is left is the light I hav a mars hydro tsw2000 it's 30 inches from top of canopy at 50% dimmer. Now I'm new to this indoor auto grow I normally grow photos outside I hav those dialed in but these indoor autos are tricky AF. Any advice I thank you ahead of time. Hav a blessed day.thankx again for the time.
Hi ^^ I love yourr videos they are really informative but sometimes I crave abit more do you got any scientific book recommandations espacially on how abiotic factors impact the terpene production or on cannabis breeding and on how the genetic inheritance works (but i think it would work very similar to other plants so a non cannabis one would also be a great help). Most of my biological information comes from my AP Bio-class in school ( I think that is how i would translate it in american school terms. I am from germany), so i dont know alot about it. I would really apericate an answer and keep up with what u are doing now! I love to have educational content on cannabis.
So I was told that using an added uv bulb in the last half stage of flowering boosts resin, as in the the plant is producing more resin to protect its self. What is the science behind this. As I dont have the means to test thc levels, I did find that plants nearer to the uv bulb did show more resin on leaves and ever so slightly bigger buds. I was also told that using uv bulbs on cbd plants lows the amount of cbd but raises the levels of thc..any science behind this?
@@DeBaccoUniversity Thanks, I guess a little stress isnt too bad, I live in Africa and our outdoor stuff is good with all our UV so, can't be too bad for them.
@@DeBaccoUniversity I don't care about the intensity right now but what I meant to say was would the LEDs color range would be able to mimic the different color range of the sun during the day? Just for when it can't be outside because of weather
Most commercial growers I know are dumping LEDs and going back to HPS or staggering HPS and LED every other light. Because most LED grow light manufactures are adding WAY to much blue light. an Ideal light would be 2700k with a slight bump in the red to give you a 2:1 or 3:1 blue to red ratio.
@@DeBaccoUniversity Leaf temp matters to a certain degree (no pun intended). when I was growing with HPS my lights were always hung 36 inches or greater from the canopy. my leaf temp hung around 78 degrees ish. I match this with my LED rooms with the ambient temp around 80 degrees (leaf temp stays around 77-78). regardless if I raise it more or not I still end up with nutrient deficiencies that I never had when growing with HPS . When you look at where Chlorophyll A and B are absorbed you'll notice that with HPS its predominately Chlorophyll B (in the yellow spectrum) with a small amount of Chlorophyll A in the 660 area. LEDs completely saturate both those areas as well as a huge spike in the blue. PAR for PAR the lights are not equal. 1000 ppfd with LED has probably 5x the photosynthetic energy as 1000 ppfd with HPS (an estimate). I also think the far red that HPS plays a factor. Ive recently purchased lights that have closer to the spectrum that I previously mentioned. my first run with them should start next month. I'll report back in 90 days and let you know if my hypothoses is correct.
Thats more of an electrician issue than a grower issue. You would calculate your total load and compare that to a solar setup and hooking to a grid. Where I live in Colorado, there are many greenhause grows that are all solar, and a couple companies that cater to those specific needs. Look up Area420 in Moffat, CO to see what I'm talking about. It's an interesting place. These are year round greenhauses, auto darkening, acogs, lights, the works. Those are easily 50-100k solar investments upfront. Happy growing!
It might have been helpful to use a graphic that shows the actual standard of measurement that you are referring to when referring to specific data. You are spending some time talking about "2,000 or 2,500[K]" but the graphic you use is in m. This may be something that experienced people understand, but without any kind of explanation, it appears incongruent. Also, could have spent a moment explwining why we want short and dense plants. Could also spent less time simply mentioning what LEDs we could use. And more specifically what is the right ones and why. For example, find a grouping of lighting options that are recommended (don't mention brand) and discuss each feature of the bulb and the lamp, why that feature is important. Haven't seen your other videos. Just seemed a bit like you know the information, but are delivering it in a slightly inefficient manner.
Shane from Migro is one of the realest and honest Guys in the whole "growing industry" and i really like his additude and modest Nature. Much love from Germany
It was a great collaboration for sure.
Being fairly new to indoor growing, Debacco University and Migro quickly became my go to for educational needs, so I'm thrilled with the collaborations.
You've both set me up for success, and I thank you!
Thanks for sharing and great to know!
Once again thanks Professors!
Once again, you are welcome;-)
appreciate all of the information Debacco and Shane have shared over the years! With Ohio's new recreational law, I can put alot more of the information to work! thank you both! Peace and love always from Ohio!
Glad to help!
Learned alot from shane a few years ago. 2 of my favourite "sciencey" guys in the field collaborating here.
Collaborating just save you time;-)
Thanks for the great light spectrum information.
Any time glad you liked it!
Thanks 👍 very much
You are welcome!
Hey thanks u both for sharing lightning knowledge. More than hazardous spectrum optimization what I really wonder is : Optimal light intensity through the whole lifecycle. Lot of questions like : minimal intensity too keep mothers small ? what is best for clones ? During veg what intensity make them bushy or tall ? Does flip impacts light intensity ? when should it be max ? when to decrease it. Would really love to see a video on this topic, it will save power and make healthier plants. thx again
Lower intensity encourages stretch, which is almost always bad indoors. Clones need much less light, as they will burn in full flower or even veg lights. Don't hurt mothers with lower than normal light, just train them the size you want. YOU are controlling the branching. If it gets leggy that's your fault. Sorry that's out of order.
I always thought I want to try a setup that mimics what happens outside.
= Start with lower intensity in the morning, increase, strongest during lunchtime and fade before "sunset" Also less intense for young plants = springtime,, increase as you go, most light for blooming, then decrease slightly for the last days/weeks when all growing is done..
@@c3N3qit'll not hurt them
@@Sandwich13455 Is that a nice way of saying I think it's a load of crap But it will not hurt them? 😉
@@mikethegreat4296 i have some knowledge bout that, but i'd like to hear advice from experts
Nice to see a longer video!
Some did comment that they wanted to see this so great to know the longer format is enjoyed.
I just got to say. I've been watching botanical UA-cam's for 20 years at least. Hundreds of producers on UA-cam that I watched a lot of them are really cool a lot of them are really stupid but out of all of them, DeBocco is the easiest to watch and learn. Keep up the good work.
Thank you so much for this comment and subscription this is one of the top complimenting comments provided on the channel!!!
@@DeBaccoUniversity I had to got to give respect for her respects to did not expect it when I first saw your first video but to be honest with you you rock you taught me tons
Thank you for all the knowledge shared, I am a young chemist from Chile who really likes growing marijuana, with your videos it is very easy to configure the best conditions and really understand what we are doing and why.
Thanks and best of luck with your future!
Great video.
Glad you liked it!
Real heroes don't wear capes, they teach
Thanks;-)
Very informative! Thank you! New sub!😊
Thanks for the subscription!
Love this info
Happy to provide it!
I use 5000k in veg and 4000k in flower. having some really good results. good video
How do you do that?
different tents and different lights move the plants from a veg to a flower tent@@gamblr5422
What type of lights? (LED, CMH, HPS,...)
I recently watched a grow vid where the person was using a light with the new Samsung 301H diodes. This was his first grow using lights with those diodes and he was really impressed with how well the plants grew, etc and was attributing it to the new diodes. He said he had grown this particular strain more than once previously and this was the best it had ever done. Is it possible that the 301H diodes are a game changer?
U should check out lm301h EVOS,newest diode,also not all lm301h chips are created equally
They've been out a cpl years now too the lm301h, the lm301b was out before that and are essentially the same h has a slight advantage on efficiency
I don't rely on one crop experience. The only way to know is to put side by side 2 plants with all the same except the light and see the result. And do it more then once. They are few people bothering doing the things right when it comes to compare plant growth. Migro is one of them and when I watch his experiments, I don't see any "super" spectrum light or led that would make a big difference.
What other environmental factors were documented? (PAR, humidity, temperature,...)
thank you! :)
You are welcome thanks for the comment!
I think most home growers want a full spectrum led.
Now, for light wattage in a 4x4 space, I would use 800watt 650 if I had to. You want your Canopy all of it getting 800 to 1000 ppf in flower.
Also consider CO2 levels.
👊
Thanks!
My leaves are yellowing pH is spot on hav cal/mag with iron so only thing I think is left is the light I hav a mars hydro tsw2000 it's 30 inches from top of canopy at 50% dimmer. Now I'm new to this indoor auto grow I normally grow photos outside I hav those dialed in but these indoor autos are tricky AF. Any advice I thank you ahead of time. Hav a blessed day.thankx again for the time.
Maybe this DeBacco University video can help you... ua-cam.com/video/djcU1Vc38ug/v-deo.html
Is light the biggest factor to the biggest factor vs different parameters to get the optimized conditions for cannabi at home use?
Genetics, Light, Nutrients and water management are all key.
Hi ^^ I love yourr videos they are really informative but sometimes I crave abit more do you got any scientific book recommandations espacially on how abiotic factors impact the terpene production or on cannabis breeding and on how the genetic inheritance works (but i think it would work very similar to other plants so a non cannabis one would also be a great help). Most of my biological information comes from my AP Bio-class in school ( I think that is how i would translate it in american school terms. I am from germany), so i dont know alot about it.
I would really apericate an answer and keep up with what u are doing now! I love to have educational content on cannabis.
Plenty of scientific information on this channel, just search a topic of interest on this channel.
So when on breeding for genetics we should opt for chemavars with those traits like the siberian, dest skunk And land race like morrocon beldia or
???
When breeding it is up to the grower/breeder. However, disease resistance is important and often not discussed.
So I was told that using an added uv bulb in the last half stage of flowering boosts resin, as in the the plant is producing more resin to protect its self. What is the science behind this. As I dont have the means to test thc levels, I did find that plants nearer to the uv bulb did show more resin on leaves and ever so slightly bigger buds. I was also told that using uv bulbs on cbd plants lows the amount of cbd but raises the levels of thc..any science behind this?
This is a form of light stress on the plant and some growers do this, however, this is still pending supportive research.
@@DeBaccoUniversity Thanks, I guess a little stress isnt too bad, I live in Africa and our outdoor stuff is good with all our UV so, can't be too bad for them.
I never hear anyone talking about giving multiple sources of light like sun on a good day and LEDs on a rainy day
Under a cover supplementing light on a rainy (cloudy day) should minimize loss, but it is hard to match the suns intensity.
@@DeBaccoUniversity I don't care about the intensity right now but what I meant to say was would the LEDs color range would be able to mimic the different color range of the sun during the day? Just for when it can't be outside because of weather
What about all these 4000k lights comin out,thoughts?
Great for early stages of growth and is often similar to sun light.
2100k for the win
2 of my lights are 3000k and one is 3500k, the plants under the 3500k seem to come out frostier than the other two.
What style of light? (LED, CMH, HPS,...)
Just looks that way under the light. The human eye can see better under 3500 vs. 3000.
@@diezelvh4133 I’m not talk about the way they look in the tent
Most commercial growers I know are dumping LEDs and going back to HPS or staggering HPS and LED every other light. Because most LED grow light manufactures are adding WAY to much blue light. an Ideal light would be 2700k with a slight bump in the red to give you a 2:1 or 3:1 blue to red ratio.
Also leaf temperature must be taken into consideration. Take a look at this DeBacco University video... ua-cam.com/video/5CV9XlHais0/v-deo.html
@@DeBaccoUniversity Leaf temp matters to a certain degree (no pun intended). when I was growing with HPS my lights were always hung 36 inches or greater from the canopy. my leaf temp hung around 78 degrees ish. I match this with my LED rooms with the ambient temp around 80 degrees (leaf temp stays around 77-78). regardless if I raise it more or not I still end up with nutrient deficiencies that I never had when growing with HPS . When you look at where Chlorophyll A and B are absorbed you'll notice that with HPS its predominately Chlorophyll B (in the yellow spectrum) with a small amount of Chlorophyll A in the 660 area. LEDs completely saturate both those areas as well as a huge spike in the blue. PAR for PAR the lights are not equal. 1000 ppfd with LED has probably 5x the photosynthetic energy as 1000 ppfd with HPS (an estimate). I also think the far red that HPS plays a factor.
Ive recently purchased lights that have closer to the spectrum that I previously mentioned. my first run with them should start next month. I'll report back in 90 days and let you know if my hypothoses is correct.
Good topic would be how to run your grow off solar power only and is it worth it?😅
Thats more of an electrician issue than a grower issue. You would calculate your total load and compare that to a solar setup and hooking to a grid.
Where I live in Colorado, there are many greenhause grows that are all solar, and a couple companies that cater to those specific needs.
Look up Area420 in Moffat, CO to see what I'm talking about. It's an interesting place.
These are year round greenhauses, auto darkening, acogs, lights, the works. Those are easily 50-100k solar investments upfront.
Happy growing!
.... you mean use the sun;-) This would be the most efficient and least impact on the environment.
Hps entered the chat.
Welcome!
Wonder how many times we are going to study and restudy the same info over and over again?
Establishing a pattern is important.
Adding some UV LEDs is a good idea - for that it where the dank lives.
There are also UV specific bulbs for those using CMH lights.
No, it doesn't. I used to think this. Science proved it wrong.
It might have been helpful to use a graphic that shows the actual standard of measurement that you are referring to when referring to specific data. You are spending some time talking about "2,000 or 2,500[K]" but the graphic you use is in m. This may be something that experienced people understand, but without any kind of explanation, it appears incongruent. Also, could have spent a moment explwining why we want short and dense plants. Could also spent less time simply mentioning what LEDs we could use. And more specifically what is the right ones and why. For example, find a grouping of lighting options that are recommended (don't mention brand) and discuss each feature of the bulb and the lamp, why that feature is important. Haven't seen your other videos. Just seemed a bit like you know the information, but are delivering it in a slightly inefficient manner.
Thanks for the suggestion.