Love the content as you have a great way of explaining things. I just started the restoration of my 72 MGB that hasn’t run in 40 years and your videos are very helpful. I am chronicling the journey on a UA-cam channel called MaggiesMakeover. I am finding that it takes longer to produce the videos than actually doing the work! Keep up the good work.
Hello again Alex. I hope you are having a great 4th of July holiday. i have been having a problem with my MGB. I installed a Pertronics flame thrower coil with a Pertronics Ignitor conversion. I am not happy with the way it runs, so I am going back to the points and condensor setup. My problem is, my distributor only has 1 wire coming from it. What wire do I connect to it. Also, do I need to use a 1.5 ohm coil? Or can I use the 3.0 ohm coil? Plus, do I need to put the resistor back in. I can't figure out the wiring of the resistor. I have 1 long green wire at the part of the harness that goes to the alternator. Is that the wire that I connect to the distributor? Any assistance you can give would be wonderful. Thanks.
@bobharter3492 gonna need some more info... What year vehicle? What model of igniter? Also curios about the distributor. The pickup coil can be sensitive to variations in the gap. So if your existing distributor shaft, or bearings have too much play, it may affect performance.
Also, you might want to test the play in your timing chain. If you were prompted to make the change because of floppy timing, it might be the timing chain
I have a 77 MGB, timing chain and tensioner is solid. I have a 45D4 distributor. It has 1 green wire coming out if it. I took the long green wire from alternator part of harness and connected it to the distributor. Key off, 0 volts. Key on 12 volts to the distributor. I assume that that is correct. I can't figure out how to wire the ballast resistor.
I must have thrown away the box for the ignitor. The pickup on it has LU-143A. The distributor is brand new. I may need to bite the big one and buy the Pertronics Distributor from Moss. Just to make sure that I have the correct set up. I have a 3.0 ohm flame thrower coil. Do I need to put a 1.5 ohm coil on going back to points and condensor set up?
I was also wondering if it could be a carburetor problem. I tried to save money and bought a Weber knock off carburetor. It runs really rough, runs extremely rich. 5 minutes running puts alot of carbon build up on the plugs. Also, it only runs when it is choked. When I turn off the choke, it dies instantly. What do you think.
@bobharter3492 that sounds like a gasket leak at the head. Sometimes the exhaust manifold is a different thickness than the intake. You need to shim it it that is the case. Also, the idle jet needs to be selected for the displacement
@@AlexPlatacis I think I found my whole problem. I rebuilt my old carburetor. When I was taking off the other one, I was looking at the studs on the manifold that holds the carburetor. I noticed that the threads weren't long enough and the nuts were bottoming out before it secured the carburetor to the manifold. Would that have caused it? It was just snug enough to where I couldn't tell if it was tight or not. I ran the threads down further and I am reinstalling the the carburetor. I'll let you know how it goes.
Love the content as you have a great way of explaining things. I just started the restoration of my 72 MGB that hasn’t run in 40 years and your videos are very helpful. I am chronicling the journey on a UA-cam channel called MaggiesMakeover. I am finding that it takes longer to produce the videos than actually doing the work! Keep up the good work.
Great video and presentation. Great progress on your restoration.
Great video and information. Beautiful MG!
Very useful video thank you.
Hello again Alex. I hope you are having a great 4th of July holiday. i have been having a problem with my MGB. I installed a Pertronics flame thrower coil with a Pertronics Ignitor conversion. I am not happy with the way it runs, so I am going back to the points and condensor setup. My problem is, my distributor only has 1 wire coming from it. What wire do I connect to it. Also, do I need to use a 1.5 ohm coil? Or can I use the 3.0 ohm coil? Plus, do I need to put the resistor back in. I can't figure out the wiring of the resistor. I have 1 long green wire at the part of the harness that goes to the alternator. Is that the wire that I connect to the distributor? Any assistance you can give would be wonderful. Thanks.
@bobharter3492 gonna need some more info...
What year vehicle?
What model of igniter?
Also curios about the distributor. The pickup coil can be sensitive to variations in the gap. So if your existing distributor shaft, or bearings have too much play, it may affect performance.
Also, you might want to test the play in your timing chain. If you were prompted to make the change because of floppy timing, it might be the timing chain
I have a 77 MGB, timing chain and tensioner is solid. I have a 45D4 distributor. It has 1 green wire coming out if it. I took the long green wire from alternator part of harness and connected it to the distributor. Key off, 0 volts. Key on 12 volts to the distributor. I assume that that is correct. I can't figure out how to wire the ballast resistor.
I must have thrown away the box for the ignitor. The pickup on it has LU-143A. The distributor is brand new. I may need to bite the big one and buy the Pertronics Distributor from Moss. Just to make sure that I have the correct set up. I have a 3.0 ohm flame thrower coil. Do I need to put a 1.5 ohm coil on going back to points and condensor set up?
I was also wondering if it could be a carburetor problem. I tried to save money and bought a Weber knock off carburetor. It runs really rough, runs extremely rich. 5 minutes running puts alot of carbon build up on the plugs. Also, it only runs when it is choked. When I turn off the choke, it dies instantly. What do you think.
@bobharter3492 that sounds like a gasket leak at the head. Sometimes the exhaust manifold is a different thickness than the intake. You need to shim it it that is the case. Also, the idle jet needs to be selected for the displacement
@@AlexPlatacis I think I found my whole problem. I rebuilt my old carburetor. When I was taking off the other one, I was looking at the studs on the manifold that holds the carburetor. I noticed that the threads weren't long enough and the nuts were bottoming out before it secured the carburetor to the manifold. Would that have caused it? It was just snug enough to where I couldn't tell if it was tight or not. I ran the threads down further and I am reinstalling the the carburetor. I'll let you know how it goes.
So where is the part two?
@@EIKLURAM ua-cam.com/video/55nqruizTjo/v-deo.htmlsi=0JNF8-AJGk6_HOX4
Also, brand new camshaft.