Відео

@@tarshamcgregor7976 LOL... Funny, I thought the same of the square box.

@tarshamcgregor7976 what would you reccomend if it was nor the same square box

@@Labukh84 6 Amp hr 57 volt

@mikhailbelyj3582 FWD... I always thought that abbreviation was a bit SUS. Front Wheel Drive is the best middle ground between 4wd and 2wd. Having the power to the front wheels gives more control in ice, and loose terrain. While giving better fuel mileage for daily use. Here in Texas ice storms are a thing. So, FWD is preferred.

@@AlexPlatacis Thank you! I asked because I know on fwd, access to some parts is difficult)) this sensor also needs to be replaced, now calm down, if you succeeded, then I have a chance))

@@mikhailbelyj3582 I did end up also replacing the connector. Plastic stuff gets hard and brittle over time and heat

@Vault101tec I purposely only recorded the transaction and did not get the dudes face. Had to keep under 1 minute, for the short.

Here us a link to the policy for more info www.autozone.com/tools-and-equipment/loan-a-tools?srsltid=AfmBOopSLupt6n-y98D2UmAooI80jnwVlrferrgka6ze1W7eZHhilQjX

@shanemis6296 no, it has a time out. Good question though. I breeze over stuff sometimes, and don't realize I keep a viewer hanging

I was thinking I should have shown that. I try to keep my videos to 20 mins or so. To make the bends I use different pipe diameter pipes, and a rubber mallet. For concave bends or cups, I use a tree stump and a ball pine hammer

I understand your perspective... But, I initially tried Stainless, and it turned out the heat transfer was not "radiant" but transferred through the head back into the intake manifold. Also, I have thermal barrier on the back of that Aluminum sheet. The idea of that was to increase the surface area to allow the heat that was being transferred to be dissipated prior to being transferred to the carb. here is the video of the stainless attempt ua-cam.com/video/BihaJZrMMZA/v-deo.html

The point I'm trying to make is you've boxed in the engine bay so you've removed a massive amount of air flow from the engine compartment. As you stated your car isn't in a high state of tune and therefore not creating additional heat it seems rather odd you're having to completely reinvent something that has worked fine for years for just about everyone else.

@malcolmlane-ley2044 well, this setup is far from stock. It was a barn find that had a blown head gasket and had suffered from overheating. It had a burned exhaust valve, and a oil ring had rolled. So it had this issue a long time ago. I am just trying to resolve it so I don't burn up the engine as it had done before. Your point is well taken. But since this 1977, 18v type has a 1974 head with the large intake valves, and a Kent fast road cam installed. Not to mention the Weber dcoe 45 carb. (A larger than usual carb) The heat issues are not because of air flow in the compartment, but rather other heat sources.

@malcolmlane-ley2044 I re-read your comment a few times. And I believe I have figured out your perspective. You may be referring to the diamond plate mud plate below the radiator. If your model is an older you may have a fan mounted on the front of your water pump. On the '77 it has electric fans mounted in front of the radiator. In the place where I put the diamond plate, there was a cardboard and tar mud plate. Mine had deteriorated so I replaced it with the aluminum. I have a video on that. Sorry for any confusion

@@malcolmlane-ley2044 ua-cam.com/video/zK_f5skMUoE/v-deo.htmlsi=SE4Nz6V0DDZhdCNS

@m3man680 third fuse down from top is the Green circuit. Basically anything that runs when ignition is on. Also, there are documented issues with the diodes (also on the green circuit) they are easy to check under the dash. Right next to the signal flashers. If bad using the hand brake can do odd things.(circuit moving backwards)

@alex_n7916 not sure I understand your question. I just posted this video because I thought it was odd it had two. Don't know what the designer had in mind, but also don't know why you would want to remove one. I suppose you could cut away the valve and spring and just install the flange ???

Surprisingly, the mechanical advantage only goes one way. Might seem counter-intuitive, but the engine weight cannot move the worm gear it has too much resistance. I have a video I did a year later where I push it to its limits...

@@harpersisland ua-cam.com/video/IB90nr5EiGQ/v-deo.htmlsi=S2o0GBkcIA46oSc-

I bolted it on while hoisted. I have mounted a winch in my garage ceiling. But, I suppose you could also use an engine hoist(cherry picker) I have since mounted my vice on the engine stand. Very handy having a metal working station on wheels

@@Sloposse ua-cam.com/video/rdJaCmPIBkI/v-deo.htmlsi=39UzfeJc33Wk84N7

Glad to help. Thanks for the comment. It helps

@anthonyuplandpoetwatkins5283 this was a barn find. I did not search it out

@DanMedina-gm1fz thanks for the constructive criticism. I have been adjusting my format since this video. I typically now just speed up the video or summarize as you suggested. In this video I believe I was more trying to show my wife helping in the garage. But thanks for taking the time to help out. It does help me get better. Hope you can find newer videos on the channel that help your projects

@@jimknight2041 triumph tr6

@user-cv6xd8lc1h tr6 parts car. Been stripped and left in the barn

@@AlexPlatacis all ok

@bobharter3492 that sounds like a gasket leak at the head. Sometimes the exhaust manifold is a different thickness than the intake. You need to shim it it that is the case. Also, the idle jet needs to be selected for the displacement

@@AlexPlatacis I think I found my whole problem. I rebuilt my old carburetor. When I was taking off the other one, I was looking at the studs on the manifold that holds the carburetor. I noticed that the threads weren't long enough and the nuts were bottoming out before it secured the carburetor to the manifold. Would that have caused it? It was just snug enough to where I couldn't tell if it was tight or not. I ran the threads down further and I am reinstalling the the carburetor. I'll let you know how it goes.

@bobharter3492 gonna need some more info... What year vehicle? What model of igniter? Also curios about the distributor. The pickup coil can be sensitive to variations in the gap. So if your existing distributor shaft, or bearings have too much play, it may affect performance.

Also, you might want to test the play in your timing chain. If you were prompted to make the change because of floppy timing, it might be the timing chain

I have a 77 MGB, timing chain and tensioner is solid. I have a 45D4 distributor. It has 1 green wire coming out if it. I took the long green wire from alternator part of harness and connected it to the distributor. Key off, 0 volts. Key on 12 volts to the distributor. I assume that that is correct. I can't figure out how to wire the ballast resistor.

I must have thrown away the box for the ignitor. The pickup on it has LU-143A. The distributor is brand new. I may need to bite the big one and buy the Pertronics Distributor from Moss. Just to make sure that I have the correct set up. I have a 3.0 ohm flame thrower coil. Do I need to put a 1.5 ohm coil on going back to points and condensor set up?

I actually have a few videos of my rebuild where I used it. And a year later, I did a follow up video where I bolted an 8 foot 2×6 on it and tried to break it. Held up nicely. I will post some links for your viewing pleasure

ua-cam.com/video/UKIIEkGGyO8/v-deo.htmlsi=MFYuLTJq8_W2o6r7

ua-cam.com/video/IB90nr5EiGQ/v-deo.htmlsi=X_twFnKgyGuF1x2f

After a while I decided to make it into a portable metal working station. By mounting my vice on it ua-cam.com/video/rdJaCmPIBkI/v-deo.htmlsi=Xd4wzx8PNRhotXLX

I would be glad to share that, but it has changed quite a bit since this video. In later iterations, I had to add phenolic spacer and that changed the shape of the cover. The current one also is two part, and comes together with overlapping tabs. The reduced space made it difficult to install as one piece Here is a link to the video showing the install of that spacer ua-cam.com/video/mmRPKHIqtcg/v-deo.htmlsi=u4Il6bzzXsUpnmhs

I know... Pretty floppy. When I dragged the car from the barn, both rear brakes were frozen, and the hand brake was rusted tight By the time I had freed up the lever, the shaft was not even round. I ended up reforming it with epoxy filler. It works, but still a bit floppy

Just one of those things I will have to eventually replace

Hmm... Never heard of doing that. I no longer have my old rubber bumper. But if you want to record some videos of your experiment, I would be glad to include it in a segment on the channel

You can PM me on mgbexp I am Texas77MGB. I will send you a link to share files

Speedhut also has a VSS converter that lets you use your existing speedometer cable instead of going the GPS route. It takes the turning of the speedometer cable and converts it into the VSS signal that drives their VSS type speedometer.

None to speak of. However in the video you might notice I coaxed a bit of a bend into the ends so they would have a bit tighter fit.

Yes. You will need a prying instrument with a 90-degree angle, but you can access them.

Silly follow up question, using the prying tool(s) do you spin them off or do they need to be muscled off by rocking them up and down?

@magicianintrouble yeah. They are just a Chinese finger trap. You have to wiggle them.