Good work, it even sounds less pinging. Thanks again for taking the time to instruct and go through a step by step process of bench testing individual systems
When trying to find the compression stroke on number one cylinder, rather than removing the valve cover to look at the movement of the valve mechanism, I remove all the plugs apart from number one. When you rotate the crankshaft and feel compression, it has to be number one cylinder. Saves making a mess and the possibility of damaging the gasket.
Master! Thank you very much for sharing this knowledge. I'm restoring a MK2 Escort with Crossflow and now fitting an electronic kit from Lucas (AB13) together with the Lumenition Optronic eye in a standard motrocraft distributor. I'm having issues with starting the engine and was looking for some static timing tips...and here I found some useful ones! Thank you very much again. Best Regards
Hello, Sir! Just as unbreakable rule: If I'm not working in my garage shop and I have some free time, I watching Your videos! I aprecciate all of the efforts You spent to make me feel excelent ;)
Very interesting. I too have a mgb 1979 with electronic ignition. It has no pickup on no1 and an erratic pick up on no3 the main difference is I have an accuspark ignition which is not optical. I do not have an oscilloscope so I can only view the spark “optically”. Yours is the first case I have come across where there is no obvious fault. This gives me hope and maybe I am not loosing my mind! Thanks for the video
Thank you for your excellent video. I think the best way to test the ignition is to measure the length of the spark, using an adjustable spark tester. Amperage draw is a good test, but it only measures the current in the primary winding. If the transistor in the module doesn’t make a clean break or the secondary coil winding has a problem, the spark output will be weak or erratic.
This is very intresting on how to check them components. Although I personally am not a fan of lumenition (I had and also some friends retired from rallies because of issues with them ) On the Avenger/Sunbeam 1600 uses the same distributer as Mini D4. My preferred system is the 123ignition .NL Electronic Distributer which fits straight in and 2 wires to the coil. It has no centrifugal advance weights but a solid shaft instead. You can select your preffered advance curve by Dip switch or USB depending on model. Also I found if my plugs are too cold they can foul up (black) and the strobe light dont flash properly. My favourite plug for my engine is the NGK Iridium BP6 heat range I never had problems since i used both them. Thank you looking forward to more great viewing.
Mooie video, verrassende uitkomst... Had ik niet verwacht. Ik dacht eerder aan de bougiekabels en verdeelkap. Ik zou denken dat een defecte amplifier module effect op alle cilinders zou hebben, positief of negatief.
LOVE your trick of wrapping a wire coil around an ignition wire so one can measure secondary voltages with a non-automotive O'scope. i wonder if one can get an accurate secondary voltage measurement using the wire coil's turns ratio and some other calculations...
Great video. You could see it on the scope at the beginning compared to the end, the pulses were all over the place, short, long, etc. With the new they were much more even and strong. You could have spun it up on the bench and put the scope on it with your coils-of-wire pickup and seen if it broke down at higher frequency or something. Perhaps I missed cleaning and gapping the plugs, probably in previous video, I forget.
too funny, I just returned from picking up a 34mm to find tdc on mine. guess I need to try one of those amp boxes... and as usual you showed us how the pros do it, thank you!
@@D3Sshooter how could I test plug wires to see if they are resistor type? I cannot find any info to see if the Accuspark red wires are. And I have some ngk r6ey in and hear that resistor wires AND plugs is a poor combo?
Thank you for the great video that taught me some things. I have a small block Chevy in my pro street car with a Mallory dual point distributor which has nothing wrong with it but think electronic ignition would make it run bit better and cleaner burn. But seeing all the reviews on people having problems with dual point electronic conversion kits from the various brands like Mallory, MSD and Pertronix which all make conversion kits and ignition boxes but I don’t want to get stuck on the side of the road with a module or box that goes out. I did buy a old black Mallory HyFire IV ignition box and matching coil I think if I remember correctly was meant to run with my Mallory dual point dizzy. Car has a dual tunnel ram with two Edelbrock 1405’s and my Mallory dual point is in there tight so can’t throw in a HEI since cap is to big. But Pertronix makes one with an outside module that would fit but then again I have zero confidence in all the electronic brands. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Steve please explain why you run your race engine without air filters ? Dave Vizard ( source his book on A series modification ) found that air filtration , properly sized and designed for the carb of choice , did not effect the maximum power and kept dirt , of which a race track has plenty due to soft tyres , out allowing less engine damage . DV tested Webers with filter boxes with rams which I bet you know about . The only advantage of running with no filter is the sound of the air rushing through the carbs , which is nice , but .....
I would have put one channel of the oscilloscope on the optic sensor output, and the other channel on the ignition coil primary side (hundreds of volts, set probes correctly and make sure the scope can handle the voltage!). This would show much of what you say you don't test, the dynamics of the "box" - you see exactly what input the box gets from the sensor, as well as what the box sends out to the coil. You also see all the sparks in the primary side voltage, so you can compare their peak voltage and duration - if all cylinders are working under the same conditions they should be reasonably close to the same, while a faulty plug, lead or cylinder running way rich, lean or different compression should stick out like a sore thumb.
Indee, there are many more possibilities to test and trace, I could even head-up the box and so on... If I was to fix the amp modue then I would do that indeed. But not directly on the HT as that is 20KV
Hi thank you for your video, it baffles me how the optocoupler knows that that it is firing on cylinders 2 and 3 ? the scope sowed no difference between cylinders . I have had a similar problem that the timing light would not flash on some cylinders , i changed the spark plugs and querd the problem. It turns out that the engine was too rich and socking in the plug incinerators and not letting the ht voltage to get high enough the set off the strobe light.
Brilliant video. I didn’t have the really expensive type of electronic ignition I had the cheaper type but on two of my cars I’ve gone back to points because of them just braking down with no warning! At least with points you can fixed/ change them at the road side. When you raped the wires round the HT leads did you fix one end of the prob to one end of the wire and the earth lead of the prob to the other end of the winding wire? Just to make it clear to me? Thanks ☺️
I m thinking of losing my pts and condenser on my TR6 for electric ignit. I watched Steve Denton's install of a lumenition elect. ignition on his tr6. He didn't utilize a amplifier. Any idea why your system uses it? Great explanations. thx
Great video. I'm struggling to see why a fault with the amplifier would affect 2 cylinders and not the other two though - surely it should be getting exactly the same trigger signal for all 4 (the shutter disk is symmetrical), and then it's driving the same single coil. Is it just that the output was weak for all 4, and two of the plugs happened to have different gaps, soot, lead resistance or whatever, and the low output was just enough to make 2 spark, and just not enough to make the other two spark?
Maybe the coil was not getting enough time or current from the timing amplifier module to create enough magnetic field to then create a decent spark plug voltage . Possibly the 'dwell' , in old points terms , was somehow insufficient . Would this indicate a capacitor problem within the amplifier ?
Thankyou Steve, another great tutorial we have. I have a question for you. My mini is running 1275 twin hs2 carb with Lucas 65D electronic distributor. When i set the base timing on 10 degree, the engine start pining when it goes high rpm with loading. Is it because i hv too much vacuum advance? Can i adjust the vacuum advance on 65D to avoid pining and at the same te keep running 10 degree base timing? I've been struggle in this problem for a while. Right now just run with 6 degree base timing but the engine temperatrue is a bit high. Thankyou.
Great video! Now I'm going to test my Lumenition set I have laying around and which I couldn't get to operate... Where did you find the affordable new Lumenition set?
I'd be interested to know the answer to this question, too. Wouldn't mind getting hold of an optical sensor and chopper disc to test with a Bosch high power inductive ignitor and coil on my '66 Alfa. The prices I see online for these Lumenition items aren't attractive, however.
I'm not a big fan of Lumenition and optical detection ... I used several times Pertronix, with no issue, but now they are far more expensive than before ! then, for Lucas distributors, I used twice Accuspark (UK company), that use hall effect detection, and that's cheap and fine ! no CDI though, but it allows to get rid of points...
Great diagnosis. I also have a 1950cc engine fitted with Lumination ignition I’m not sure about changing it, but in an earlier video you had priced to buy a 123 unit is this still your plan for the future?
My lumenition kit has a slight play on the cutter once installed beneath the rotor. Around 5mm play. Could you confirm this could be an issue at some point?
Hi Steve, first of all i want to sincerely thank You for another awesome video! If You happen to have one of those modules that are completely broken and can't be rescued, would it be possible to take it apart in order to see the inside of it?
Steve, why not just fit standard distributor breaker points? They work fine and have done so for 100 years. Even is you choose to replace them every 2 years that's a lot less dicking around that this science project and replacement expense that you just went thru.
Hi Hugh, the reason is simple, this is a race car and at high rev's7000 RPM those mechanical points are to slow to react when closing.... besides the fact that I want a much stronger spark. More current through the primary of the HT coil is giving more output , brakerpoints are not all that good for high currents... I hope that this answered the question
I haven't tried my cleand up webers yet (waiting for misab parts to remount them), but now I'm already questioning if I should take a closer look at my old MSD 6AL box too haha Another great vid. Did you ever finish up the DCOE rebuild series? I can't find anything after mounting them to the manifold.
"As you can see there's always something that can go wrong (...) If you think it's only in your case that things go wrong, sometimes well I can assure you it happens with me as well." Im just waiting 'till something goes right.
that is hard to tell without more info. Are you sure that distributor is fitted in the correct direction so that the rotor points to cylinder 1 when that one is at the top of the cylinder and both valves are closed ( compression stroke),,, when you say nothing works what do you mean ?
Check your rotor button, replaced entire electronic system, nought wrong with it!!! Twas the rotor button,would run fine but stop for no reason,restart fine but stop a short time later. New button all fixed,albeit I had now had two electronic systems both worked perfectly!!! Mal in au.
The New parts boxes were labeled Lumenition brand. I have had good luck with a Pertronix system which uses a Halle effect timing sensor rather than this optic control. The Pertronix installation instructions do stress the importance of a very clean electrical supply for optimum system functioning and life - no voltage spikes, proper solid ground paths, and the use of a specific coil and plug wires. I suspect all or some of these rules would apply to the Lumenition, but that’s just electronic common sense. An additional Pertronix caution states - Do not leave the ignition switched on if the engine is not running.
Indeed, and that is why the infra red is far less sensitive and as such IMO more reliable. As for the last note in your text, you can see what happens if the chopper happens to block the IR light when the engine is stopped... permanent 7Amps through the Coil.... Battery will run empty and the coil and amp will burn up
@@myrlstone8904 if you use the Pertronix 2 it allows you to leave the key on, with no harm to coil. But it runs a coil of under 1 ohm. I ran it on my former MG.
to confirm that the module is the real culprit, I'd replace, at first, the module, Something say to me that a defective module will repeat randomly the trouble on all the cylinders not only on #2 and #3
Ignition trouble with a MGB? Really? I remember multiple episodes of total loss of ignition while driving at 70 mph. That's right, driving along with no problem and then... nothing. I got to know the wrecker driver and heard all about his kids in my multiple tows to the dealer.
@@stephenalexander6721 Yep... Stupidest system so far invented... I have never seen another ignition system with a relay in the running circuit... perhaps in the starting circuit. Finally I bought several little can relays so when it quit I could pop the hood and replace the relay... then I was good for another 1000 miles, or 100 miles, or 10 miles.
Your video's has been helping me for ages now. Learnt how to rebuild and tune dgas carbs, dcoe carbs, set essex v6 timing and more.
Thank you..
I enjoy your videos. A professional effort. You take a lot of time and effort to explain the system. The layout on the work bench was very creative.
Thank you
Good work, it even sounds less pinging. Thanks again for taking the time to instruct and go through a step by step process of bench testing individual systems
You're very welcome!
Looking forward to seeing old Rusty. I have learnt so much from your videos. Thank you.
Very welcome
When trying to find the compression stroke on number one cylinder, rather than removing the valve cover to look at the movement of the valve mechanism, I remove all the plugs apart from number one. When you rotate the crankshaft and feel compression, it has to be number one cylinder. Saves making a mess and the possibility of damaging the gasket.
Master! Thank you very much for sharing this knowledge. I'm restoring a MK2 Escort with Crossflow and now fitting an electronic kit from Lucas (AB13) together with the Lumenition Optronic eye in a standard motrocraft distributor. I'm having issues with starting the engine and was looking for some static timing tips...and here I found some useful ones! Thank you very much again.
Best Regards
Hello, Sir! Just as unbreakable rule: If I'm not working in my garage shop and I have some free time, I watching Your videos! I aprecciate all of the efforts You spent to make me feel excelent ;)
Morning Steve. That was a really interesting diagnostics of the old MG ignition fault 👍🏻 Great fix 🏴
Thanks 👍
Thanks for posting. Im always learning from your great information Steve. Thanks a ton.
Glad to hear it
Another Outstanding video and presentation.
Very interesting. I too have a mgb 1979 with electronic ignition. It has no pickup on no1 and an erratic pick up on no3 the main difference is I have an accuspark ignition which is not optical. I do not have an oscilloscope so I can only view the spark “optically”. Yours is the first case I have come across where there is no obvious fault. This gives me hope and maybe I am not loosing my mind! Thanks for the video
Good processor of illumination and thanks for the master class tutorial Steve your videos are an education in its self
A thorough demonstration of the complete process of diagnosis. Excellent video! :)
Thanks for the comments
Thank you for your excellent video. I think the best way to test the ignition is to measure the length of the spark, using an adjustable spark tester. Amperage draw is a good test, but it only measures the current in the primary winding. If the transistor in the module doesn’t make a clean break or the secondary coil winding has a problem, the spark output will be weak or erratic.
This is very intresting on how to check them components. Although I personally am not a fan of lumenition (I had and also some friends retired from rallies because of issues with them ) On the Avenger/Sunbeam 1600 uses the same distributer as Mini D4. My preferred system is the 123ignition .NL Electronic Distributer which fits straight in and 2 wires to the coil. It has no centrifugal advance weights but a solid shaft instead. You can select your preffered advance curve by Dip switch or USB depending on model. Also I found if my plugs are too cold they can foul up (black) and the strobe light dont flash properly. My favourite plug for my engine is the NGK Iridium BP6 heat range I never had problems since i used both them. Thank you looking forward to more great viewing.
Indeed, I have been running the 123 Bleu Toot ignition on my V8 MGB GT... works well.
Mooie video, verrassende uitkomst... Had ik niet verwacht. Ik dacht eerder aan de bougiekabels en verdeelkap. Ik zou denken dat een defecte amplifier module effect op alle cilinders zou hebben, positief of negatief.
Nicely explained. Well documented. Easy to follow. I see some tools I'd like to have to check out my engines.
Makes me want to keep the original points ignition in place. I originally thought the distributor rotor might have been out of phase. Thanks.
This electronic ignition is really good....it improves the performance overall...
Thanks for sharing this! I’ve not used their ignition systems before, and was thinking of doing an upgrade over my Pertronix Ignitor II setup.
LOVE your trick of wrapping a wire coil around an ignition wire so one can measure secondary voltages with a non-automotive O'scope. i wonder if one can get an accurate secondary voltage measurement using the wire coil's turns ratio and some other calculations...
Great troubleshooting. Given the ignition order is (1-3-4-2) it looks like the faulty unit was skipping every other firing pulse..
Really good description of this system. Thanks.
Tysm for this vid. I had the exact same issue - misfire and sooth on spark plugs 2 and 3. Changed the amp and problem went away.
You are a great teacher, thanks Steve.
Great video. You could see it on the scope at the beginning compared to the end, the pulses were all over the place, short, long, etc. With the new they were much more even and strong. You could have spun it up on the bench and put the scope on it with your coils-of-wire pickup and seen if it broke down at higher frequency or something. Perhaps I missed cleaning and gapping the plugs, probably in previous video, I forget.
Thanks for the tips!
too funny, I just returned from picking up a 34mm to find tdc on mine.
guess I need to try one of those amp boxes...
and as usual you showed us how the pros do it, thank you!
Go for it!
@@D3Sshooter how could I test plug wires to see if they are resistor type? I cannot find any info to see if the Accuspark red wires are. And I have some ngk r6ey in and hear that resistor wires AND plugs is a poor combo?
that engine sounds happy again ! Velleman has a cheap transistor ignition kit too, I used it on my beetle in the 80s
Indeed, there are many kits on the market . in the old days I have even build my own with J-FETs
Thank you for the great video that taught me some things. I have a small block Chevy in my pro street car with a Mallory dual point distributor which has nothing wrong with it but think electronic ignition would make it run bit better and cleaner burn. But seeing all the reviews on people having problems with dual point electronic conversion kits from the various brands like Mallory, MSD and Pertronix which all make conversion kits and ignition boxes but I don’t want to get stuck on the side of the road with a module or box that goes out. I did buy a old black Mallory HyFire IV ignition box and matching coil I think if I remember correctly was meant to run with my Mallory dual point dizzy. Car has a dual tunnel ram with two Edelbrock 1405’s and my Mallory dual point is in there tight so can’t throw in a HEI since cap is to big. But Pertronix makes one with an outside module that would fit but then again I have zero confidence in all the electronic brands. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
great presentation and explanation
Brilliant video m. Very comprehensive. !! Thank you.
Get a straw an put the straw in the grommet then feed your wires thru works great
Fine fault finding. You could probably have seen the fault with the oscilloscope and pickupcoil like before on the output of ignition coil.
yes indeed
Just found your channel, love your videos, keep up the good work : )
Thank you
Can you discuss run on/dieseling and how to diagnose and resolve the issue? Thanbks
As always, fantastic work! Thank you!
many thanks for this helpful & explanatory video
Steve please explain why you run your race engine without air filters ? Dave Vizard ( source his book on A series modification ) found that air filtration , properly sized and designed for the carb of choice , did not effect the maximum power and kept dirt , of which a race track has plenty due to soft tyres , out allowing less engine damage . DV tested Webers with filter boxes with rams which I bet you know about . The only advantage of running with no filter is the sound of the air rushing through the carbs , which is nice , but .....
It makes a very small difference, on the airflow and turbulence .. I possible should put a filter up
Excellent, you are very knowledgeable.
I would have put one channel of the oscilloscope on the optic sensor output, and the other channel on the ignition coil primary side (hundreds of volts, set probes correctly and make sure the scope can handle the voltage!). This would show much of what you say you don't test, the dynamics of the "box" - you see exactly what input the box gets from the sensor, as well as what the box sends out to the coil.
You also see all the sparks in the primary side voltage, so you can compare their peak voltage and duration - if all cylinders are working under the same conditions they should be reasonably close to the same, while a faulty plug, lead or cylinder running way rich, lean or different compression should stick out like a sore thumb.
Indee, there are many more possibilities to test and trace, I could even head-up the box and so on... If I was to fix the amp modue then I would do that indeed. But not directly on the HT as that is 20KV
Hi thank you for your video, it baffles me how the optocoupler knows that that it is firing on cylinders 2 and 3 ? the scope sowed no difference between cylinders . I have had a similar problem that the timing light would not flash on some cylinders , i changed the spark plugs and querd the problem. It turns out that the engine was too rich and socking in the plug incinerators and not letting the ht voltage to get high enough the set off the strobe light.
Brilliant video. I didn’t have the really expensive type of electronic ignition I had the cheaper type but on two of my cars I’ve gone back to points because of them just braking down with no warning! At least with points you can fixed/ change them at the road side. When you raped the wires round the HT leads did you fix one end of the prob to one end of the wire and the earth lead of the prob to the other end of the winding wire? Just to make it clear to me? Thanks ☺️
I m thinking of losing my pts and condenser on my TR6 for electric ignit. I watched Steve Denton's install of a lumenition elect. ignition on his tr6. He didn't utilize a amplifier. Any idea why your system uses it? Great explanations.
thx
Great video. I'm struggling to see why a fault with the amplifier would affect 2 cylinders and not the other two though - surely it should be getting exactly the same trigger signal for all 4 (the shutter disk is symmetrical), and then it's driving the same single coil.
Is it just that the output was weak for all 4, and two of the plugs happened to have different gaps, soot, lead resistance or whatever, and the low output was just enough to make 2 spark, and just not enough to make the other two spark?
Maybe the coil was not getting enough time or current from the timing amplifier module to create enough magnetic field to then create a decent spark plug voltage . Possibly the 'dwell' , in old points terms , was somehow insufficient . Would this indicate a capacitor problem within the amplifier ?
it can be related to the fire sequence... and slowness of electronic components in the amplifier. In each case that solved the issue
very good job i have the same problem with my mini 1275cc with electronic 59d4
Hi. Heeft u de verdeleras met een bepaalde reden 180gr. gemonteerd ten opzichte van de fabrieks specs?
Ja in dit geval wel, om de slijtage te vermijden die er al was ...
Thank you! Your videos are great!!
Thankyou Steve, another great tutorial we have.
I have a question for you. My mini is running 1275 twin hs2 carb with Lucas 65D electronic distributor. When i set the base timing on 10 degree, the engine start pining when it goes high rpm with loading.
Is it because i hv too much vacuum advance?
Can i adjust the vacuum advance on 65D to avoid pining and at the same te keep running 10 degree base timing?
I've been struggle in this problem for a while. Right now just run with 6 degree base timing but the engine temperatrue is a bit high.
Thankyou.
Great video. Very informative.. Cheers.
Great video! Now I'm going to test my Lumenition set I have laying around and which I couldn't get to operate... Where did you find the affordable new Lumenition set?
I'd be interested to know the answer to this question, too. Wouldn't mind getting hold of an optical sensor and chopper disc to test with a Bosch high power inductive ignitor and coil on my '66 Alfa. The prices I see online for these Lumenition items aren't attractive, however.
Why wasn’t the rotor pointing to cylinder no 1 if you were approaching Tdc?
Best place to find the ignition amplifier? Cant locate it. Perhaps a part #? Thanks
I'm not a big fan of Lumenition and optical detection ... I used several times Pertronix, with no issue, but now they are far more expensive than before ! then, for Lucas distributors, I used twice Accuspark (UK company), that use hall effect detection, and that's cheap and fine ! no CDI though, but it allows to get rid of points...
Great diagnosis. I also have a 1950cc engine fitted with Lumination ignition I’m not sure about changing it, but in an earlier video you had priced to buy a 123 unit is this still your plan for the future?
123 ignition make great programmable distributors which might better suit your tuned engine?
Love your work 👍
Thank you so much 😀
My lumenition kit has a slight play on the cutter once installed beneath the rotor. Around 5mm play. Could you confirm this could be an issue at some point?
you are my teacher from now on :D
Hi Steve, first of all i want to sincerely thank You for another awesome video!
If You happen to have one of those modules that are completely broken and can't be rescued, would it be possible to take it apart in order to see the inside of it?
Good job sir
top of the day to ya. nice film I watched to the end
Thank you
Do they make a magneto type ignition for your application? They are trouble free for all the vehicles I have ever owned.
Steve, why not just fit standard distributor breaker points? They work fine and have done so for 100 years. Even is you choose to replace them every 2 years that's a lot less dicking around that this science project and replacement expense that you just went thru.
Hi Hugh, the reason is simple, this is a race car and at high rev's7000 RPM those mechanical points are to slow to react when closing.... besides the fact that I want a much stronger spark. More current through the primary of the HT coil is giving more output , brakerpoints are not all that good for high currents... I hope that this answered the question
the IR sensors get weak with sending a square wave pules over time heat and stuff or the driver box is weak
they do indeed, but what is over time... 5 - 10 years
@@D3Sshooter possibly I would put star washers under the grounds on the amp box too
I haven't tried my cleand up webers yet (waiting for misab parts to remount them), but now I'm already questioning if I should take a closer look at my old MSD 6AL box too haha
Another great vid. Did you ever finish up the DCOE rebuild series? I can't find anything after mounting them to the manifold.
Thanks for the video
"As you can see there's always something that can go wrong (...) If you think it's only in your case that things go wrong, sometimes well I can assure you it happens with me as well."
Im just waiting 'till something goes right.
I fitted accuspark complete system to my Essex V6...now nothing works..any ideas
that is hard to tell without more info. Are you sure that distributor is fitted in the correct direction so that the rotor points to cylinder 1 when that one is at the top of the cylinder and both valves are closed ( compression stroke),,, when you say nothing works what do you mean ?
Great video 👍
Thank you
Check your rotor button, replaced entire electronic system, nought wrong with it!!! Twas the rotor button,would run fine but stop for no reason,restart fine but stop a short time later. New button all fixed,albeit I had now had two electronic systems both worked perfectly!!! Mal in au.
Do you have any experience with Lumenition Magnetronic or Pertronix Ignitor?
Heard that the Pertronix is very reliable.
The New parts boxes were labeled Lumenition brand. I have had good luck with a Pertronix system which uses a Halle effect timing sensor rather than this optic control. The Pertronix installation instructions do stress the importance of a very clean electrical supply for optimum system functioning and life - no voltage spikes, proper solid ground paths, and the use of a specific coil and plug wires. I suspect all or some of these rules would apply to the Lumenition, but that’s just electronic common sense. An additional Pertronix caution states - Do not leave the ignition switched on if the engine is not running.
Yes , IMO both are good systems... Although I prefer the infrared. its simple and needs very little adjustment
Indeed, and that is why the infra red is far less sensitive and as such IMO more reliable. As for the last note in your text, you can see what happens if the chopper happens to block the IR light when the engine is stopped... permanent 7Amps through the Coil.... Battery will run empty and the coil and amp will burn up
Thank you for your response and infos! 👍
@@myrlstone8904 if you use the Pertronix 2 it allows you to leave the key on, with no harm to coil. But it runs a coil of under 1 ohm. I ran it on my former MG.
making a RF coil to the CRO
how to connection
Very detailed video, thanks
You are welcome!
Thank you just subscribed - Regards
Any time I see plugs with a screw terminal cap I start here. NKGs or Densos.
look up MGB 1800 Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit for Lucas 43D4 & 45D4 Distributors
you don't need a ignition module. one less part to brake down
Enjoyable 👍
to confirm that the module is the real culprit, I'd replace, at first, the module, Something say to me that a defective module will repeat randomly the trouble on all the cylinders not only on #2 and #3
How.mutch...cost. india
No fan of optical ignitions my choice Msd and Mag trigger timing computer optional😊
Ignition trouble with a MGB? Really? I remember multiple episodes of total loss of ignition while driving at 70 mph. That's right, driving along with no problem and then... nothing. I got to know the wrecker driver and heard all about his kids in my multiple tows to the dealer.
Yep , that is a MG
Lucas electrics?
@@stephenalexander6721 Yep... Stupidest system so far invented... I have never seen another ignition system with a relay in the running circuit... perhaps in the starting circuit. Finally I bought several little can relays so when it quit I could pop the hood and replace the relay... then I was good for another 1000 miles, or 100 miles, or 10 miles.
Great, but you could have got 12v from the + of your coil.
yes I could
Time to go fast on the track…….
Thanks
👍
electronic distributors are a waste of time i use points and a condenser as the electronic ones can be of poor quality.
I will stick points.
Traduci in Italiano.grazie
Very informative. Thanks much.
Very welcome