Thank You !! I have watched 15-20 videos about GFCI outlets and you just answered my problem I have been having. Thanks for taking the time to do this video !
Thank you so much! If you do not know where the GFCI plugs are terminating, you do not need them! I removed two additional GFCI units in the house and replaced them with conventional plugs and they work just fine. I had four outlets that were not working due to one of the two GFCI's being incorrectly routed, and those four are now humming right along!
Thanks so much, I’m updating 91 year old outlets in my home and last night had all of my upstairs power go out after installing GFCI’s in my bedroom ~ every line, except in the bathroom. I hooked up the load lines...
I wish you had followed through with the other bath example you backed out and changed to master bedroom. That is precisely the dealing with - 2 GFI on the same circuit acting independently using the upper connectors on each so doesn't affect other switches and outlets downline. Would have to pigtail both the black and white (separately) like you did with the ground to avoid two wire connection. But that is really a non-issue in my case as actual project is converting from aluminum to copper so the respective lines will each have a 3 outlet Alumiconn with one the copper pigtail. I guess the real question is can multiple GFI be installed on the same circuit and act independently if only using the upper posts?
good video my friend...........been watching GFCI videos and have learned a lot and your video added even more to what i have already learned......thanks.........P.S. THANKS FOR NOT MAKING A 6 MINUTE VIDEO INTO A HALF HOUR VIDEO CAUSE OF A LOT OF USELESS JIBBER JABBER...........THANKS A MILLION............
If you have no ground on your outlets and you want to protect them then you don’t use the load, correct? They should all be wired independently, correct? Also if you want to do this can you simply do one at a time or do they all need to be replaced with a gfci at the same time?
I have one gfci outlet in the kitchen close to the sink (above the counter) that also controls the refrigerator. one set of wires to the load and one set to the line. From your video it appears that I can put all of the wires to the line in side and that will keep that gfci outlet from controlling the refrigerator and allow the gfci only to trip what is plugged into the gfci outlet. Is that correct? Can I use both holes at the line side since I only have two sets of wires going into the box? The grounds are already pig tailed. thanks
Yup, that is why we did the video. Never downstream feed anything like a frig or freezer or sump pump from a gfci. I use the 2 line feed holes all the time. You could pigtail the 2 circuits together w/wire nuts and a short jumper to the line side of the gfci also. Pig-tailing is actually the more correct method. Blair
The electrician used the receptacle as feed-through, one pair of wires are hot feeding the device and the other pair are continuing on feeding the next device.
Can you place the gfi anywhere in the 3 outlets in the garage diagram you drew. Say you connected a gfi on the middle outlet in the diagram. Would it then control the next outlet downstream and not the one before it?
I had one time the breaker trip, not the gfi outlet. after using a new coffee maker. I replace it and found that the neg. wire was burn about a 1/2 inches. Was the gfi outlet gone bad, or the new coffee maker?
Usually when a wire burns, it is because it wasn’t tightened to the screw tight enough. A loose wire generates heat and can burn. Amateur electricians don’t tighten screws tight enough and this is a common result.
So, a GFCI does NOT trigger BOTH it's outlets during a current fault, but only the LOAD outlet (the one initially covered with yellow tape)? The LINE outlet stays hot always (unless the main breaker in the house box is tripped), Is this correct? In other words, the only thing monitored and protected by the GFCI outlet is whatever is plugged into the LOAD (not the LINE) socket? Thanks Blair!
At 5:05 you say not to use the load (never unless you know what you are doing). I'm a little confused because later you show the garage with gfci being the first recepticle followed by 3 or 4 outlets, do you now connect thos using the load side of gfci, it's confusing. Thanks for the video and your time.
@@rubengarza7388 only use the load if you want every outlet after it on the same stream to be gfci protected. If you just want that outlet protected and nothing downstream use the line holes.
I have an older house and each outlet has two black (hot) wires and two white wires, and so I replaced the old two prong outlets with the GFCI in the holes provided just like the one you have in the video. But in one outlet, it has three black (hot) wires and three white wires, so now I'm not sure what to do, it's the only outlet like it and it's in the bedroom, not in the kitchen/bathroom, not near any water. So what do I do? There is very little room in the box and so I'm at a loss as to what to do and why only one out of 14 has six wires instead of four. If you see this can you help with some advice? I didn't do anything to it at all, didn't want to make a mistake so it's as is until I can figure out how to handle that extra two wires. Thanks.
Typically it is a point where one hot feed is split feeding 2 different directions. One goes to another bedroom and the other feeds a different room, however it could be a switch leg so I can’t say w out being on site. When I have a split like this that I know the locations of the lines I wire nut the blacks together with a pigtail to the receptacle and the same for the whites, yes it is busy in the box so all the wires have to be folded perfectly to get it into the box.
@@MrHardware1 Hey, thanks for the response, the extra wires were indeed feeds to other outlets, originally I eliminated two that weren't live but then other outlets went dead. So I just put the wires back where they were originally on the new outlet and everything is working fine. I know just enough to get in trouble and not electrocute myself so I kept it simple. Thanks again I appreciate it very much, happy independence day!
Funny how the instructions ONLY tell you to use the load terminals on the back of the GFI for the load wires in your box. They fail to mention IF you want those loads to also be GFI protected.
Good video regarding use of the output side of the GFCI, but MOST OUTLETS that have the holes for WHT and BLK push in and stay by an internal spring mechanism. Using the holes makes tightening the screws useless. The screws are to trap the wires under its head, they typically don't somehow clamp down on the wire that's inserted in the hole. I point this out because many/most US wiring codes require the screw head to hold the wire in place. Could be the GFCI holes on the back of the one used in the video really works this way, but the vast majority of them don't, and per code, require the screw to be UNDER the SCREW HEAD (sorry, not shouting) for a superior connection (the holes and screw are separate options). The point is, using the holes may lead others to violate code.
With those Leviton GFCI recepticals he's showing the screw does actually clamp down on the wire in the holes. It's a different mechanism to the spring they use on the conventional recepticals. With the GFCI design you tighten down with the screw and have to undo the screw to get the wire out. There's no other way to release the wire.
The line and load can be reversed too! Thats what got me....i tried the old put it back where it came from and it caused the gfci outlet buttons to be " locked "
I would put the feed wires to the ‘line’ side of the gfi, and I would put the wires to the receptacle down stream to the ‘load’ side. That way that GFI will protect both plugs
I can’t site ‘code’ as how many devices can be wired off the load side of a gfci, however in my garage the first device off the panel is a gfci which controls all the devices down stream on that wall, about 8 receptacles. I could have split the run downstream (in one of the receptacle boxes) to feed receptacles elsewhere so one could feed the maximum amount of devices allowed by code per circuit. The branches don’t have to come directly off the gfci.
@@algolove185 a dishwasher is required to be on its own circuit and not, as of yet, not gfci protected. Nor is a hood fan required to be gfci’ d, but you can.
How do i do that? Bathroom 1 and 2 are on the same circuit. Bathroom 2 had a line/load GFCI..Bathroom 2 had a regular receptacle that I want to change to an independent GFCI. How can I do that? And is it ok that the 2nd bathroom is loaded? Or should the 2nd bath be line only?
What did I do wrong? My GFCI combination light switch and receptical only has power to the light switch, if you could help me figure out what I'm doing wrong, I would greatly appreciate it, thank you in advance sir
I can only guess you don't have the black feed and the switch wire under the same screw. Please send pic to blair@mrhardware.com and I'll help further, if you haven't solved it by now. Blair
Mr. Hardware I will take it back apart and try and send you a good picture tomorrow, I have the breaker turned off at the moment, because, well you know, better safe than sorry lol
I meant the line can be on top on one brand and bottom on another so simply switching the putlet out by putting wires back where they came from might not always work.
Take a lamp and plug it into each outlet after you trip the gfci. Easily show you which outlets are protected by whatever is wired into the load part. Whichever outlet doesn't have power is protected.
This can only be answered with a drawing of the wiring. There is usually 2 of each, power in and power out. 2 hots and only one neutral does not sound right. Blair
@@MrHardware1 I found out with help from a UA-camr / electrician name John shook that I have a two phase setup. He suggested I place a wire nut over one of the hot and use the other one hot for the GFCI
That depends on the situation. In my garage the gfi is first and it controls 4 receptacles down stream on the same wall. The same in my kitchen, it was new work so when I wired the backsplash the gfi is first and it controls that wall, only. I never let a gfi control a receptacle out of the room.
Both of my bathrooms gfi are not working, the reset switch is not activated and non of my breakers are tripped in the main box. Any suggestions where to start? Oh and also two out door outlets are also not working.
I would start at the gfi receptacle closest to the electrical panel. If it is a bad gfi and all the others are wired downstream you would have your senario. Be safe or have an electrical do the work because you don't know which breaker controls that circuit.
If you have more than 2 pairs of wires in an outlet box chances are that, by code, the box is over it's max. capacity already, and you do not have enough capacity to install a G.F.C.I. in that box.
It simple as 123. The green screw is for earth ground only. It is bare or color green wire in alternating currect only. In dirrect current as cars uses a battery the ground is black. For ac it green or bare only. Plus the receptical gold screw is current line and silver screw is neutral white travler wire of 50% of current line wire. Never mix a earth ground with a neutral . Earth ground has 0 % voltage ,, where the neutral carries 50% and up to 100% of current line... remember earth ground is what makes it a no fault receptical. It on a short to trip its breaker and it put on a panel heat breaker. Short trips its own breaker faster than the heat breaker in psnel, it trips after the mercury inside melts by heat and trips the breaker. You will reach that same heat before it trips. It much slower than no fault. REMEMBER NEUTRAL IS NOT EARTH GROUND !!!! IT A TRAVELER OF 50-100% OR CURRENT LINE.
Thanks man. Helped explain load part gfci plug. Appreciate it.
Thank You !! I have watched 15-20 videos about GFCI outlets and you just answered my problem I have been having. Thanks for taking the time to do this video !
Best video on GFCI installation! I reviewed lots of video and this guy explains everything quickly and thoroughly.
Thanks for being one of the few people on UA-cam who actually explains how these work lol!
Thank you so much! If you do not know where the GFCI plugs are terminating, you do not need them! I removed two additional GFCI units in the house and replaced them with conventional plugs and they work just fine. I had four outlets that were not working due to one of the two GFCI's being incorrectly routed, and those four are now humming right along!
Explained very well allowed me to install a gfci switch that i had no diagram for. Explanation made sense!
You are the best person that has explained the CFC second holes( rocket science electrical UFO mistery) wow
Thanks so much, I’m updating 91 year old outlets in my home and last night had all of my upstairs power go out after installing GFCI’s in my bedroom ~ every line, except in the bathroom. I hooked up the load lines...
I watched too many videos and this guy simplified it! Thanks
Mr. Gilbert, I love shopping in your hardware store. Keep up the great videos!!
Explained the use and installation very well! Thanks!
Thank you so much for this video. You just saved me close to 100 dollars for putting in wires wrong
your tutorial help me very much. up and running.
Very helpful, Thank you
Great info. Got what I needed. appreciate it
Thanks for the nice video. Helped me a lot. TBR from AnnArbor
Good video. I learned a lot from this video. Well done !,
really great explanation, thank you so much!
Thank you sir , Great explanation !!!!!!!!!!!!
Nicely done! Thanks!
Thanks. You helped solve a four day problem.
We are glad to help, Blair and Tim
Nice explanation with nice personality. Thank you
Thank you--excellent information
Thank you Blair!
Very informative and helpful
Very helpful, thanks!
Good info👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 thank you for the class sir🙏🏼😃
nice video, good job, i learned a little more every video i watch
Awesome Video explaining it perfect. Thank you for taking the time and making the video.
Took a guy from good old Michigan to get to the dam point thanks brother ..
Explained it perfectly...Thanks
Thank you Blair.
I wish you had followed through with the other bath example you backed out and changed to master bedroom. That is precisely the dealing with - 2 GFI on the same circuit acting independently using the upper connectors on each so doesn't affect other switches and outlets downline. Would have to pigtail both the black and white (separately) like you did with the ground to avoid two wire connection. But that is really a non-issue in my case as actual project is converting from aluminum to copper so the respective lines will each have a 3 outlet Alumiconn with one the copper pigtail. I guess the real question is can multiple GFI be installed on the same circuit and act independently if only using the upper posts?
Thank you worked.
Great video!
Great post. Thanks
good video my friend...........been watching GFCI videos and have learned a lot and your video added even more to what i have already learned......thanks.........P.S. THANKS FOR NOT MAKING A 6 MINUTE VIDEO INTO A HALF HOUR VIDEO CAUSE OF A LOT OF USELESS JIBBER JABBER...........THANKS A MILLION............
Great video
well done explain thx.
Brilliant...NOW I know about the yellow tape....AND why the GFI is tripping!
great informative video
Thanks, we are trying to keep it good but short.
Excellent!
Good info, ty
If you have no ground on your outlets and you want to protect them then you don’t use the load, correct? They should all be wired independently, correct? Also if you want to do this can you simply do one at a time or do they all need to be replaced with a gfci at the same time?
Good video. Keep it up. Can 2 wires be used the same time at the load side hot respectively neutral holes?
Typically only one wire per screw. Wire nut the 2 wires together w/a 5” pigtail that will go to the gfi.
Very informative
Thank you
I have one gfci outlet in the kitchen close to the sink (above the counter) that also controls the refrigerator. one set of wires to the load and one set to the line.
From your video it appears that I can put all of the wires to the line in side and that will keep that gfci outlet from controlling the refrigerator and allow the gfci only to trip what is plugged into the gfci outlet.
Is that correct? Can I use both holes at the line side since I only have two sets of wires going into the box?
The grounds are already pig tailed.
thanks
Yup, that is why we did the video. Never downstream feed anything like a frig or freezer or sump pump from a gfci. I use the 2 line feed holes all the time. You could pigtail the 2 circuits together w/wire nuts and a short jumper to the line side of the gfci also. Pig-tailing is actually the more correct method. Blair
super job of load issues using GFI
Why are there 2 black and 2 white going into the line side of the receptacle? I thought only 1 wire is supposed to go in each.
The electrician used the receptacle as feed-through, one pair of wires are hot feeding the device and the other pair are continuing on feeding the next device.
Can you place the gfi anywhere in the 3 outlets in the garage diagram you drew. Say you connected a gfi on the middle outlet in the diagram. Would it then control the next outlet downstream and not the one before it?
It will only protect the receptacles downstream.
Can you use the load wires to feed power to a light in the bathroom so that the light would be protected as well?
Yes
I had one time the breaker trip, not the gfi outlet. after using a new coffee maker. I replace it and found that the neg. wire was burn about a 1/2 inches.
Was the gfi outlet gone bad, or the new coffee maker?
Usually when a wire burns, it is because it wasn’t tightened to the screw tight enough. A loose wire generates heat and can burn. Amateur electricians don’t tighten screws tight enough and this is a common result.
Your way to install is different than any other on UA-cam. Now I'm even more confused!
So, a GFCI does NOT trigger BOTH it's outlets during a current fault, but only the LOAD outlet (the one initially covered with yellow tape)? The LINE outlet stays hot always (unless the main breaker in the house box is tripped), Is this correct? In other words, the only thing monitored and protected by the GFCI outlet is whatever is plugged into the LOAD (not the LINE) socket? Thanks Blair!
Incorrect, the gfci trips everything if it encounters a fault. Both it's outlets and the 'load' output if used.
At 5:05 you say not to use the load (never unless you know what you are doing). I'm a little confused because later you show the garage with gfci being the first recepticle followed by 3 or 4 outlets, do you now connect thos using the load side of gfci, it's confusing. Thanks for the video and your time.
@@rubengarza7388 only use the load if you want every outlet after it on the same stream to be gfci protected. If you just want that outlet protected and nothing downstream use the line holes.
I am going to do some serious word processing now
I have an older house and each outlet has two black (hot) wires and two white wires, and so I replaced the old two prong outlets with the GFCI in the holes provided just like the one you have in the video. But in one outlet, it has three black (hot) wires and three white wires, so now I'm not sure what to do, it's the only outlet like it and it's in the bedroom, not in the kitchen/bathroom, not near any water. So what do I do? There is very little room in the box and so I'm at a loss as to what to do and why only one out of 14 has six wires instead of four. If you see this can you help with some advice? I didn't do anything to it at all, didn't want to make a mistake so it's as is until I can figure out how to handle that extra two wires. Thanks.
Typically it is a point where one hot feed is split feeding 2 different directions. One goes to another bedroom and the other feeds a different room, however it could be a switch leg so I can’t say w out being on site. When I have a split like this that I know the locations of the lines I wire nut the blacks together with a pigtail to the receptacle and the same for the whites, yes it is busy in the box so all the wires have to be folded perfectly to get it into the box.
@@MrHardware1 Hey, thanks for the response, the extra wires were indeed feeds to other outlets, originally I eliminated two that weren't live but then other outlets went dead. So I just put the wires back where they were originally on the new outlet and everything is working fine. I know just enough to get in trouble and not electrocute myself so I kept it simple. Thanks again I appreciate it very much, happy independence day!
Funny how the instructions ONLY tell you to use the load terminals on the back of the GFI for the load wires in your box. They fail to mention IF you want those loads to also be GFI protected.
Good video regarding use of the output side of the GFCI, but MOST OUTLETS that have the holes for WHT and BLK push in and stay by an internal spring mechanism. Using the holes makes tightening the screws useless. The screws are to trap the wires under its head, they typically don't somehow clamp down on the wire that's inserted in the hole. I point this out because many/most US wiring codes require the screw head to hold the wire in place. Could be the GFCI holes on the back of the one used in the video really works this way, but the vast majority of them don't, and per code, require the screw to be UNDER the SCREW HEAD (sorry, not shouting) for a superior connection (the holes and screw are separate options). The point is, using the holes may lead others to violate code.
With those Leviton GFCI recepticals he's showing the screw does actually clamp down on the wire in the holes. It's a different mechanism to the spring they use on the conventional recepticals.
With the GFCI design you tighten down with the screw and have to undo the screw to get the wire out. There's no other way to release the wire.
Tnx man can a borrow powder from my GFCI to power a new light in the same room
Usually is all I can say from here. Double check with a local expert.
What can I say A+ video. Showing the back side with double port and how they work.
The line and load can be reversed too! Thats what got me....i tried the old put it back where it came from and it caused the gfci outlet buttons to be " locked "
My instructions say the line and load CANNOT be reverse installed on the GFCI.
I have to replace a CFCI in the kitchen which feeds just one other outlet. Are you saying to put all 4 wires into the feed side and not the load side?
I would put the feed wires to the ‘line’ side of the gfi, and I would put the wires to the receptacle down stream to the ‘load’ side. That way that GFI will protect both plugs
Depends on if you want to protect that outlet as well. If yes then use load. If no, then stab them into line. Pigtail if more than 2.
On load side there 2 pair of holes so it means only romex wires in other words only 2 branch circuits can be added on to it?
I can’t site ‘code’ as how many devices can be wired off the load side of a gfci, however in my garage the first device off the panel is a gfci which controls all the devices down stream on that wall, about 8 receptacles. I could have split the run downstream (in one of the receptacle boxes) to feed receptacles elsewhere so one could feed the maximum amount of devices allowed by code per circuit. The branches don’t have to come directly off the gfci.
@@MrHardware1 I meant to ask can u add 3rd romex to create 3rd branch where dishwasher. And ductless range can be attached?
@@algolove185 a dishwasher is required to be on its own circuit and not, as of yet, not gfci protected. Nor is a hood fan required to be gfci’ d, but you can.
Can you make a gfi outlet switched like for a garbage disposal
You can, either install a gfi before the disposal switch.
Can u make a video wiring a gfci please!!!!
So can eliminate 1 gfi and put another one in the bathroom.. or must i have that 1 control my other bathroom
One gfci can protect both rooms but I prefer to have one in each room so if it trips I don’t have to go searching around.
How do i do that? Bathroom 1 and 2 are on the same circuit. Bathroom 2 had a line/load GFCI..Bathroom 2 had a regular receptacle that I want to change to an independent GFCI. How can I do that? And is it ok that the 2nd bathroom is loaded? Or should the 2nd bath be line only?
What did I do wrong? My GFCI combination light switch and receptical only has power to the light switch, if you could help me figure out what I'm doing wrong, I would greatly appreciate it, thank you in advance sir
I can only guess you don't have the black feed and the switch wire under the same screw. Please send pic to blair@mrhardware.com and I'll help further, if you haven't solved it by now. Blair
Mr. Hardware I will take it back apart and try and send you a good picture tomorrow, I have the breaker turned off at the moment, because, well you know, better safe than sorry lol
What is an open HOT on a GFCI error
Open hot would be dead circuit, no 110v available.
I meant the line can be on top on one brand and bottom on another so simply switching the putlet out by putting wires back where they came from might not always work.
+spoada
you must know what every wire and screw mean when doing electrical. Never guess any connections.
Blair Gilbert
COOL, many electrical devices are opposite of the prior old ones.
What if there’s two black wires at the bottom of the outlet
They need to be identified using a tester before taking any chances. More than I can teach in this venue. Sorry, Blair
I had one in garage. Had wires on line and load. Have no clue where the power is going too. Guess Ill have to find out.
Take a lamp and plug it into each outlet after you trip the gfci. Easily show you which outlets are protected by whatever is wired into the load part. Whichever outlet doesn't have power is protected.
The other ones don't have to have the cb on them?
@@mgomez5606 check your state code
What if you have two hot wires and one neutral?
This can only be answered with a drawing of the wiring. There is usually 2 of each, power in and power out. 2 hots and only one neutral does not sound right. Blair
@@MrHardware1
I found out with help from a UA-camr / electrician name John shook that I have a two phase setup. He suggested I place a wire nut over one of the hot and use the other one hot for the GFCI
I usually find when wires were joined before I got there they should be joined still. If you are done, good.
@@MrHardware1 How do you think I should wire this using both hot?
So your saying gfci should be used at the end of a circuit good tip.
That depends on the situation. In my garage the gfi is first and it controls 4 receptacles down stream on the same wall. The same in my kitchen, it was new work so when I wired the backsplash the gfi is first and it controls that wall, only. I never let a gfi control a receptacle out of the room.
Sorry, its the best I can do,
Mr. Hardware
Both of my bathrooms gfi are not working, the reset switch is not activated and non of my breakers are tripped in the main box. Any suggestions where to start? Oh and also two out door outlets are also not working.
I would start at the gfi receptacle closest to the electrical panel. If it is a bad gfi and all the others are wired downstream you would have your senario. Be safe or have an electrical do the work because you don't know which breaker controls that circuit.
If you have more than 2 pairs of wires in an outlet box chances are that, by code, the box is over it's max. capacity already, and you do not have enough capacity to install a G.F.C.I. in that box.
This is about getting the job done with what you are given. Sure code requires more room, but this is not new construction.
It simple as 123. The green screw is for earth ground only. It is bare or color green wire in alternating currect only. In dirrect current as cars uses a battery the ground is black. For ac it green or bare only. Plus the receptical gold screw is current line and silver screw is neutral white travler wire of 50% of current line wire. Never mix a earth ground with a neutral . Earth ground has 0 % voltage ,, where the neutral carries 50% and up to 100% of current line... remember earth ground is what makes it a no fault receptical. It on a short to trip its breaker and it put on a panel heat breaker. Short trips its own breaker faster than the heat breaker in psnel, it trips after the mercury inside melts by heat and trips the breaker. You will reach that same heat before it trips. It much slower than no fault. REMEMBER NEUTRAL IS NOT EARTH GROUND !!!! IT A TRAVELER OF 50-100% OR CURRENT LINE.
Very helpful - thanks. Hair dryers should be banned entirely! Lol
K cool
“Five milliampmetets…”? Uh, I think you meant milliamperes.
You ever just do it instead of explaining the same thing that over and over again explain it by doing it
You are a dangerous resource. We should always protect people, GFCi is there to protect ourselves, NOT other sources such as food and equipment.
Wrong
I hate complaining but the quality of the video is super poor... I couldn't even watch it.
Hey thanks for this comment! We just invested in 4k video cameras.
@@MrHardware1 excellent... looking forward to seeing the new vids