Thank you for GFCI 101 taught by a union man no less. Fixed my problem of running 2 gfci’s in series to connect an out door water fountain. It worked for a few years and suddenly stopped. Replaced one GFCI with a Proper 20 amp switch and ran the load to a heavy duty commercial grade outlet in a water resistant plastic case. Subscribed.
Thank you for the video. I was trying to hook up the GFI like a regular plug, so I had a load wire going into the bottom where the yellow tape was, and it wouldn't work. Thank you for explaining why the tape is there, and all of the other videos for GFIs show more than three wires, but yours was right on the money.
I tell my wife she's the only receptacle I'll poke in the back too. Thanks for the vid, all of them have been very helpful for me building my own home and trying to stay clearly within code.
Thanks, helped me understand what I did wrong. I went to change it out, I had gotten the wrong one. I went to put it back, and it kept on tripping. I left it for another day, and that was today! Realized by your video that it was carrying the other two in my master bathroom. Went to go cut my hair with the buzzers, oh hell I guess I have to figure this out. Realized I had the white wires crossed. lol. Funny story though, while trying to figure out if I had power, I had left my water flosser on. I hit the switch on the plug to test it, all of a sudden in my master bathroom I hear this noise. I was like, damn what is that! Then I realized what it was, ran to my bathroom with the water flosser shooting water all over the bathroom. lol
That story sounds exactly like something that would have happened to me. Well moral of the story is that you fixed it. I would have loved to seen your face. Merry Christmas.
This is awesome! I was troubled with the installation of a gfci outlet in my bathroom. Yes, thanks to your video I was able to understand the line and load concepts, I repositioned the wires and tah, tah.... the outlet is working perfectly. Thanks so much for taking your time to publish your fantastic videos.
Great video thx. I replaced a GFI in my kitchen today, but when I finished there was a green light on the GFI, but no power. Also lost power to two outlets that come after the GFI. I have two black and two white wires in my box. I tried flip flopping the wires from top to bottom thinking that the new GFI is configured different, but it didn’t work. I finally had to put my old GFI back on to get everything working again. Would probably help if I buy a tester so I know which wires are hot lol!
You are a Professor. I am amazed how you take time to explain clearly, I mean clearly everything I need to know. Did I learn anything? Oh yeah man. A lot I leaned from you. I give you million thanks man.
Thanks for the video, very helpful. I would always get confused between load and line. The way I remember it is, I call it Power Line. Makes me think of the powerlines outside bringing power in.
I thought that wiring a 20 amp receptacle on 14-2 would allow plugging a 20 am device on a 15 amp circuit that would otherwise require 12-2 and a 20 amp breaker. Such use of a 20 amp outlet could possibly overheat the circuit. Thank you for clearing that up. Also, I thought that some jurisdictions do not permit back sit wiring. It might be helpful to show middle of the run wiring of the outlet.
I think that very well could be a new video. As for the jurisdictions not allowing it. I cannot answer that in my County it's ok to do it but as for other I just do not know...
When replacing or adding a gfci make sure that your replacement is the same amperage as the breaker in the main breaker panel that is feeding it. If you put a 20 amp gfci on a 15 amp circuit the 20amp gfci probably wont trip for awhile if there is a problem, but hopefully the 15 amp breaker in the breaker box down line will, but maybe too late.
@@MountaineerOutdoors I should have said if you run a 20amp gfci with a 15 amp circuit breaker and there is a fault...the 15A circuit breaker would proably trip before the 20A gfci.
Nice video, just a reminder 20 amp duplex receptacles are not permitted on 15 amp circuits. If you want heavier duty 15 receptacles go to the electrical supply house and buy specification grade devices.
I bought a GE GFCI and it has a plate and a screw and no hole unless the plate is up, so I put the wire behind the plate and it works. omg thank you...
So white, neutral, and load all refer to the same white wire? My understanding is that the white/neutral/load wire goes to power the other receptacles powered and protected by the GFCI. Yes? Awesome video, by the way. At 59, I’m just learning how to do some of my own work around the house. Thanks!
You have a romex coming into the box. One black and one white with ground. That set is the line hot and nuetral is line if you are protecting another receptacle down the line from that. That romex is load. The hot on that romex is load and the nuetral is load. I appreciate you watching and commenting
This is good.I learned from it.I ran it at 1.5 playback speed.It is easy to understand and saves time.The info is good but it's not 12 minutes of info.
@@markr8904 no that's ok I know that I do it and I appreciate honesty alot. I definitely don't take offense to it and I do try not to ramble but sometimes I just forget 😂 😂 😂.. Anyway no harm no foul and I appreciate you and your comment. I hope that you have a great day ☺.
My daughter's boyfriend bought an older house recently that was wired without grounds. 2 pole outlets. It wouldn't pass the electrical inspection for the mortgage company so I went over there and put GFCI outlets in every receptacle parallel wired. It was cheaper than rewiring the entire house which was mostly block, and a lot safer than leaving it the way it was.
Thanks for the video. I have an extra red wire. Where does that go? LOL. I know that this is the end of the line for this particular cable and is feeding no other circuit beyond it. I cannot say for sure but I believe it is the only receptacle on this line as it is for a Dishwasher and GARBAGE DISPOSAL and the main CB is rated at 20A. I used a 20 GFCB here too.
@@MountaineerOutdoors you got it. They split the line side by removing their connection. This allows for two phases of line voltage and the neutral is shared.
In this case, since the load is not something plugged into the outlet, the load would be one or more outlets further down the line, i.e. further away from the breaker box, and any ground fault in one of those outlets further down the line would trip this GFI box, thus this GFI outlet can protect several outlets whose feeds are attached to the load side of this one GFI outlet. If I am incorrect, please correct me.
That's for your view its very informative. I had 2 gfi's blow in my kitchen one was a result of my wife using the microwave, it burnt the adjacent outlet, I changed the outlet and the jumper wires, flipped the breaker and the other outlet burned. Now I've replaced both and it doesn't work, I tested the black and white neutral and the black is 120v and the neutral is 12v, should me neutral have voltage?
@@MountaineerOutdoors I'm not sure. It's an older house so I think there's no ground wires. I'm having an issue rewiring the new gfi seems to have 2 live instead of just 1 black live. I'm guessing when the gfi got burnt it melted the neutral and a live wire in the same conduit causing some voltage in the neutral.
My room/office now has 2 prong outlets. I'm looking to upgrade to 3 prong grounded outlets. And I want to add a window AC Unit so I can work in the summer. I know how to change a outlet, but for adding a 3 prong, I've decided to call a electrician. The office is in a finished attic so it gets hot in the summer and with equipment, I definitely need AC and a fan won't cut it. Hopefully it's not too jych trouble to get things grounded and made safe/updated.
Make sure that they don't just replace it with a grounded plug when there is no ground in there. They must use a gfi to satisfy the code or pull a new wire to make it grounded.
@@MountaineerOutdoors Please clarify for this newbie with similar concerns: "pull a new wire to make it grounded." By "a wire" do you mean one ground wire? Can a (thin) ground wire alone be fished/pulled through existing conduit or ancient bx lacking a ground wire buried within plaster & lathe ? many thanks for your reply & videos.
If you have a conduit you can add s ground if you have room in the conduit. If it's a romex you cannot pull a loose ground wire by code. It needs to be under one sheath. So, if it's inside the conduit yes, romex no. It has to be s brand new romex
good studff. Thanks. I have a bunch of outlets to install/replace. but if you install a 20 amp GFCI outlet doesnt the circuit its on also need to be 20 amps at the circuit box? Ir is it ok to use a higher rated outlet for a lesser curcuit as long as you dont go the other way around?? please advise? thanks
So, can you tell me, is the amperage-rating at the outlet... determined strictly by the outlet itself? Or, does it have anything to do with the capability of the house to transmit one or the other? In other words, is there ever a possibility that any particular structure's system is only CAPABLE of 15-Amps and a 20-Amp outlet would be pointless... or, possibly, even trip a breaker, should a 20-Amp appliance be used?
That must be the legrand GFCI? I just pulled one out this morning when I found an open ground with my new outlet tester. Sure enough someone hadn’t connected the ground wire; in fact they were cut shorter than the hots and neutrals. So I took a length of 14-ga and twisted it with the two other ground wires in the box, and connected to the ground screw on the outlet. That’s when I noticed the hots and neutrals were going into the back. I was going to move them to the screws, but then I noticed that the plates were the type you described. So I just re-inserted and cranked down in each screw. P.S. - Looks like Lowe’s isn’t carrying legrand anymore and is instead now carrying Eaton.
I have been binge watching your electrical video's for the past two days. Great videos. I do have one request that I dont see in your feed and I need to know how to do this (if possible). I have a lighted Ceiling Fan in my living room, all on one light switch. I want to know how to add a dimmer switch just for the light part, maybe one switch for the fan and one dimmer switch for the light. Can the be done, if so, HOW
Yes the easiest way is to get a remote. However, if you want to do it like Your saying you would need to have a 12-3 or a 14-3 down to your switch. But you are right I don't have video like that but definitely need to have one. Good idea for a video. Thanks for watching my video I really appreciate it. ☺
Hello, very informative video! I am trying to find out the problem with two exterior gfci outlets, one has reset/test buttons. I have no power on both. I am unable to push the reset button which indicates to me that it is not getting the power. I checked and reset all gfci outlets in the house and they are working. The circuit breaker has not tripped either. Could you please let me know what troubleshhting I should do before I proceed with replacing? Thank you in advance!
If I were there the first thing I would do is turn off the circuit breaker, pull out the gfi out of the box and leave it hanging out, I would make sure it was safe from dogs and kids then turn the beaker back on. Go out with a induction tester (tick tester) or meter and see if I had power to the wires coming into the back of the gfi. My guess is that your gfi is bad. If it shows power my next guess is that maybe you have lost a nuetral. If that proves still no power it may be that you have a open joint somewhere..go to the next place that wire goes (junction box etc) and see if you have power there. If they still doesn't fix your problem message me back I'll tell you a few other things that you can do. Let me know
@@MountaineerOutdoors sorry for the delay. I had to buy induction tester and multimeter from Amazon to test these. i found that the cable pair feeding LOAD terminal have 120 V but the LINE terminals have no power. I opened both outdoor receptacles and there were no loose or unconnected cables. I also bought a new GFCI and replaced just to check. Test and Reset buttons on the new GFCI cannot be pressed either. Just to give some background. This problem happened after a contractor used the outlets to run thier cement mixtures. Could this be due to burned fuse on the main box then? I would appreciate your further guidance. Thanks!
If you have a ground, you don't need to use the gfci as long as it goes back to the panel. If you don't have a ground there is nothing to hook up so no
Can't help but agree with the comment from B Lawson, I watched and listened 3 times and although you didn't reference or say that you can put a 20amp GFCI on a 15amp breaker. You statement about using them "all the time, (you didn't have one in your pocket, because you never use them" gives that impression. Your response was that you quoted wrong and would correct that statement. Someone looking to install a GFCI receptacle that's not going to read the comment's will never know that the code states you can "ONLY INSTALL A 20 AMP GFCI ON A 20 AMP BREAKER. As I said I watched 3 times and only found your correction of the misleading information in the comments to everyone that has brought this to your attention. I did however see your disclaimer at the end that you were holding yourself harmless if someone follows you advice. Instead of quoting to me the obvious, maybe you could post another video and go over the compatibility of breakers, and the various gages of wire and what would happen if someone were to overload a circuit and cause a fire. Which is what can happen if someone follows your advice and installs a 20amp GFCI and the gage of wire isn't heavy enough to carry the load.
Ok I re-watched my video again 2 more times. NEVER did I ever mention that you should put a 20 amp on a 15 amp circuit ever. Also the only thing that I said which when I did say it was I prefer 20 amp receptacles. That statement did not say put a 20 amp on a 15 amp circuit. Also, I only pull 20 amp circuits 12 Guage wire to all my receptacles anyway. Now your correct per code a 20 must stay on a 20 amp.. The way you interpret this is beyond me, getting that I said something that I didn't say. Now to make it more clear I deleted it where I said I prefer a 20 amp Recep. That should make it all better so no one will hear something that wasn't said.
@@MountaineerOutdoors right to business, a man can appreciate that. Do you have a vid like this for a 4 way switch? Cause it’s really kicking my ass lol
I'm looking to build a fake wall like you have, but smaller -- about 3' x 3' -- with various receptacles to practice wiring (e.g. 2-way switches). What is the best /safest way to power this?
@@MountaineerOutdoors Would using an extension cord work? ... male end pluged into existing home GFCE and other end wired to recep/switch in the fake wall.
So the GFCI always needs to be fed directly through the panel ( a homerun), it's the first in your circuit and then your daisy chain comes off that ? Correct?
I have a recirculating water pump under my sink connected to a gfi ,and that gfi comes from another gfi which is tripping why wouldnt the gfi where the the pump is connected not trip but the other does?the gfi trips when i turn the pump on..was thinking of putting a regular outlet instead of the gfi ,any suggestions, thanks
My first question is this. The gfi are they new? Did someone just recently put them in? Have you tried anything else on the circuit to see if it still has trips. If not.. My second guess is that the in rush may be tripping it out but a recirc pump usually doesn't pull too much. If you use just a regular Recep might want to think about a single Recep. Code says that one dedicated device can be without gfi protection if it's only used for that one device.. Ie.. Washing machine, ice maker etc. Back to the gfi they possible can be tripping due to being hooked up wrong. Usually you only use one gfi for a circuit. But done correctly you can do it like that, what you are describing. Let me know what you find
I have a question about the extra line on the GFCI you show in this video. If a 20 amps GFCI is marked by that extra line on neutral slot is to signify that it is 20amp rather than 15amp why doesn't my GFCI have that extra line, I can read on side of case on mine that it is a 20amp and it is hooked to a 20 amp breaker too.
From what I have been able to look up and I have not run into this that I know of...but its rated at 20 for feed through but classified as a 15 amp...seems kinda wonky to me but good question.
Hey guy; I was just checking to reassure i knew what I thought I knew. Love the line of Bull:))) Politicians come to mind. I am constructing a dust collection system, Utilizing a old Delta motor and impeller unit. I opened the (switch) on motor and the Neutral wire coming in runs thru a 25 Amp trip. The Black/power is hooked up to, It is stamped (Load) side of switch. When I look at wiring diagram on motor, it's showing Line Neutral and Power coming in same side of switch and then feeding motor.. Am I missing something within the (how works) of that switch? I have purchased a remote start kit. Best; Tom
Without seeing a diagram I would assume that it's a double pole double throw switch.. Just a guess. Good luck with your project sounds like a good weekend project
@@MountaineerOutdoors Hey young man, Thanks for the fast response:)) I was doing the what /how thinking. It appears if the (motor) 25 amp breaker trips I automatically kicks the switch to the off position. If you have time, The 1 1/2 Hp which tells it pulls 14,7 amps, motor is new factory wired for 115v 20 amp but it has a 25 amp trip breaker wired in it. Why? Best; Tom
My thoughts on the 25 amp is because of the start up of the motor. Motors always have more amps for a brief moment while they are starting up and ramping up to the correct rpm.
Everyone says they don't like the receptacles with the quick connects, but I've been using them for 10 years and I've never had a problem. If you stick the wire in and get it tight, it's not coming out.
I think the classic spring style quick connect gives them the bad wrap. They are nothing like that. They have way more in common with a connection found on a screw terminal board (also found in your main panel before you say those are dangerous). The screw is still directly applying the pressure to the conductor. I get how it’s if it’s looped it won’t slide out because it can’t come off, but you can still wind up with crap contact if the screw backs up a little and potentially get nasty arcing. People hate change without thinking through the logic of what’s actually happening.
I saw the green screw, but how do you know which of the two side screws is white or black? Never mind I rewatched that part of the video and see that you said the bigger prong is white. :-) Thank you so much for the video!
The nuetral is a silver color and the hot is black or brass colored. Or the bigger side like you mentioned. Thank you for watching and commenting... Have a great day ☺
What kinda panel? Are you sure you don't have a shunt breaker? Anyway I want to do a video on them. Should only have 1 white wire then the curly one plus the hot (black wire)
Do these need to be above bathroom sink? I would like to install one opposite of another room that has one at 6" above baseboard or so. I am installing a bidet and would like it behind toilet.
@@MountaineerOutdoors I know around water, but do I have options on where to put them. As low as the normal ones? Is there a required height? Above level of sink?
@@MountaineerOutdoors Yes thanks. Also can I connect it to a regular outlet on opposite wall? My plan was to remove outlet from opposite side, drill a small hole to see where it lines up in bath, and then cut one in if it works there. Wire from the other outlet to new GFCI.
The outlet under my sink where the garbage disposal and dishwasher washer are connect has one plug showing open hot. I’m guessing that’s wrong. The switch that powers the disposal on and off is under there as well a few feet away. When I connect the disposal on one of the plugs 🔌 it stays on all the time. I’m guessing that’s where the washer is suppose to be connected to. When I connect it to the other plug, it doesn’t power on at all when I flip the switch. This outlet is connected with a GFCI that keeps tripping on a separate wall. Any recommendations on what I can do to fix this? Obviously my electrical knowledge needs to grow. 😃
Ok I Have questions... First the one Recep that is showing open hot is because the switch is off. When the switch is turned on it will say correct. The other plug is for the dishwasher. The dishwasher thing. Has it always done that???
Mountaineer Outdoors the dishwasher seems to be fine. I’m not sure if one of the plugs is suppose to say open hot all the time. How should they read? Again, when I plug the disposal on one of the recep, it turns on right away and I have to unplug it to turn off. I’m guessing the disposal should not be connected to that one. Can you explain how it would be connected?
Most disposals are on a switch on the wall. My guess is that if it's a duplex receptacle maybe the top Recep of the duplex is the switch part and the bottom is constant hot or visa versa. It's really hard to tell you for sure unless I was there.
Mountaineer Outdoors ok I got a little more info. When I plug an outlet tester the lights show “open hot” when the switch that controls the disposal is “off”. When I flip the switch “on” the tester lights shows normal/working fine. Is this how it should be? Also, if I plug 🔌 the disposal to the other rep, it turns on right away. No need to flip the switch. I think this second recep is working the way it should be. Hopefully this makes sense
i'll try to make this short, what if you have two gfci outlets outside on two different breakers but when you plug things with a heavy load (like an electric smoke, or air compressor) they trip instantly? i've replaced both 20 amp outlets and they still trip, and i realize that would usually mean whatever i plugged into it had a bad ground but its happened with most things i plug into the outlets. should i just wire in a standard outlet and be down with it? also the things that are making the outlet trip work fine on standard outlets and also worked fine at my last house without tripping the gcfi's.
Ok questions, is this on a gfci/arc fault breaker? You shouldn't change out the gfi to regular unless you put in a gfi breaker. It's definitely there for your protection. It may be sensing a ground... Or it's completely possible that your ground and nuetral is touching inside the Recep box... Ive seen that before. Make sure that your air compressor will work on other gfi's before doing anything drastic.. If they trip out other gfi's then it could possibly be your stuff. Keep me posted
You need a bigger breaker installed. Your circuit is prob 20 amp. Mine does the same thing so I need to run a big extension cord into my house when using my air compressor to plug it into an outlet thats on a 25amp breaker/circuit
@@MountaineerOutdoors Yeah, you just have to watch out for those municipalities that have specific code stating that residential has to have NEMA 5-15R for 120VAC.
Putting any 20A receptacle on a 15A circuit would be dangerous and illegal. You may install a 15A device on a 20A circuit, if it is "listed and labeled" for that use.
NO I did miss quote it here. I did pin a comment at the top of the video which gives the code number and tell exactly how to do it correctly I will be doing another video to correct my mistake and bring the gospel to everyone.
How many times have you slipped off with that slotted screwdriver and gouged your hand? You should mention that the 20 amp plug doesn't give you 20 amps unless you have a 20 amp breaker. Where I live you now have to use tamper resistant plugs. Also if you are retro fitting a gfi plug make sure the box is big enough especially if there are more than 2 wires and maybe marette caps. Some codes now require arc fault circuit breakers for all but a few locations. you may have to install a gfi arc fault combo breaker. I've just had $2200.00 of breakers installed in my new house.
Wow yes everything you said is 110% correct. As for that slotted screw.... Uhhhh they certainly are terrible on the hand. In the future I will definitely mention that. Have a great day and thanks for watching and commenting ☺
what if it's an older home and no grounding on the outlets in the home. How would you go about grounding the outlets. The outlets do no have a grounded copper wire only a black and white wire
I have 4 wires(2 hots and two neutrals) and a copper ground wire. Secured the hot wires to the copper(hot) terminals and the white neutrals to their side and of course the ground to the ground screw. After replacement, the outlet does not seem to be working. Any tips?
@@MountaineerOutdoors I will have to check again tomorrow. I am guessing it is in a run of other receptacles due to two sets of wires. I think I found a wiring diagram and will compare. Thanks!
@@MountaineerOutdoors Got a receptacle tester and none of the lights illuminate(open hot?). Also, the contactless voltage detector does not detect any power to the wires with the breaker on. I find it strange because the previous outlet worked.
I would like put a gif iny garage ,I'm going to plug a refrigerator into it. Does it need to be a 20 amp? And I do a gif for a refrigerator or regular receptacle?
Code says yes it has to be a gfci. Now if you call your local inspector and ask him he may say yes or he may tell you that if you run a dedicated circuit to it you can put it on a regular receptacle. My honest opinion is that you should call him and ask. It's free to ask the question and he technically has the last say. Let me know what you find out
@@MountaineerOutdoors ok thanks.i will so I need to call the inspector who let's you know wats up to code? also,is it a safety hazard to run an extension cord from the refrigerator to the gfci?
Yes call the inspector and tell them your situation. As for the extension cord I would only use a extension cord temporary and make sure that it's at least a 12 Guage cord. Not some cheap 16 Guage one. Let me know what your inspector says.
Unless I'm mistaken, the reason that you shouldn't back wire a standard receptacle is because it doesn't hold the wire with a plate when the screw is tightened. The wire can easily be pulled out of the receptacle and cause big problems.
Why does the top and bottom have 2 holes? I noticed he but the hot in the higher hole on the hot side, then he put the neutral in the lower hole on the neutral side. Why not both top or both bottom? What would you use 2 holes for on each side?
Changing your wire to a smaller wire down the line requires you to protect the entire circuit to the smaller gauge wire. Now you have a 15 amp circuit.
If you install a 20 amp GFCI , the wiring supplying it has to be 12 gauge. You should not put a 20 amp one on 14 gauge wire even though it works , the wire may over heat on a 19 amp load if it didn't trip the 15 amp breaker that is protecting the 14 gauge wire.
It's perfectly ok as long as the breaker in the panel is rated at 15 amps. You can't draw 20 amps magically because you use a 20 amp GFCI, breaker determines max output.
ua-cam.com/video/9gg8BJO5t14/v-deo.html
Are you here in Wa?
Nope in Virginia
Thank you for GFCI 101 taught by a union man no less. Fixed my problem of running 2 gfci’s in series to connect an out door water fountain. It worked for a few years and suddenly stopped. Replaced one GFCI with a Proper 20 amp switch and ran the load to a heavy duty commercial grade outlet in a water resistant plastic case. Subscribed.
My pleasure for the video. Thank you for your subscription and welcome to the mountaineer outdoors family ☺
Thank you for the video. I was trying to hook up the GFI like a regular plug, so I had a load wire going into the bottom where the yellow tape was, and it wouldn't work. Thank you for explaining why the tape is there, and all of the other videos for GFIs show more than three wires, but yours was right on the money.
So glad this helped. Thanks for watching and commenting ☺
I tell my wife she's the only receptacle I'll poke in the back too. Thanks for the vid, all of them have been very helpful for me building my own home and trying to stay clearly within code.
😂 😂 😂 That's hilarious.. I appreciate you watching and commenting. Glad these videos have helped you. Have a great day ☺
Thank you for explaining the difference between Line and Load.
Always my pleasure ☺
I finally learned what those little holes in my wire stripping tool are for. Thanks!
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
Same here lol
you are a n intellectual and Precise Teacher. no doubt Instructor like you, student can understand easily what you're saying and learned in no time.
Thank you I appreciate it ☺
Thanks, helped me understand what I did wrong. I went to change it out, I had gotten the wrong one. I went to put it back, and it kept on tripping. I left it for another day, and that was today! Realized by your video that it was carrying the other two in my master bathroom. Went to go cut my hair with the buzzers, oh hell I guess I have to figure this out. Realized I had the white wires crossed. lol. Funny story though, while trying to figure out if I had power, I had left my water flosser on. I hit the switch on the plug to test it, all of a sudden in my master bathroom I hear this noise. I was like, damn what is that! Then I realized what it was, ran to my bathroom with the water flosser shooting water all over the bathroom. lol
That story sounds exactly like something that would have happened to me. Well moral of the story is that you fixed it. I would have loved to seen your face. Merry Christmas.
Joshua Martelle in
Thanks for the detailed explanation of line and load. Totally helped me out, keep up the great content.
I appreciate your comment and watching ☺
This is awesome! I was troubled with the installation of a gfci outlet in my bathroom. Yes, thanks to your video I was able to understand the line and load concepts, I repositioned the wires and tah, tah.... the outlet is working perfectly. Thanks so much for taking your time to publish your fantastic videos.
My pleasure so glad to hear that this helped you. I appreciate your comment and watching. Have a great Thanksgiving ☺
Great video thx. I replaced a GFI in my kitchen today, but when I finished there was a green light on the GFI, but no power. Also lost power to two outlets that come after the GFI. I have two black and two white wires in my box. I tried flip flopping the wires from top to bottom thinking that the new GFI is configured different, but it didn’t work. I finally had to put my old GFI back on to get everything working again. Would probably help if I buy a tester so I know which wires are hot lol!
It is possible that the new one is bad right out of the box which seems to happen alot lately. Take it back
@@MountaineerOutdoors I did take it back. I bought two new ones plus a voltage meter. Problem solved!
You are a Professor. I am amazed how you take time to explain clearly, I mean clearly everything I need to know. Did I learn anything? Oh yeah man. A lot I leaned from you. I give you million thanks man.
Awesome I am glad to hear that this helped you. I appreciate you watching and commenting ☺
Thanks for the video, very helpful. I would always get confused between load and line. The way I remember it is, I call it Power Line. Makes me think of the powerlines outside bringing power in.
Definitely a great way to remember. Have a great day ☺
thanks for sharing...getting ready to install some in our garage and your video helps tremendously with my planning...God bless
Awesome and good luck. Thanks for watching and commenting ☺
Thanks brother, got my kitchen worked out with this video!
That's awesome glad it helped.
Awesome video, BY FAR the clearest I have watched. THANK YOU so much
- A new homeowner.
Awesome, your welcome. thanks for watching and commenting ☺
Absolutely Loved this video!!! I watched to others & got it wrong, then watched yours & it worked!!! Thank you so much!!
That's great so glad this helped... ☺
I thought that wiring a 20 amp receptacle on 14-2 would allow plugging a 20 am device on a 15 amp circuit that would otherwise require 12-2 and a 20 amp breaker. Such use of a 20 amp outlet could possibly overheat the circuit. Thank you for clearing that up. Also, I thought that some jurisdictions do not permit back sit wiring. It might be helpful to show middle of the run wiring of the outlet.
I think that very well could be a new video. As for the jurisdictions not allowing it. I cannot answer that in my County it's ok to do it but as for other I just do not know...
When replacing or adding a gfci make sure that your replacement is the same amperage as the breaker in the main breaker panel that is feeding it. If you put a 20 amp gfci on a 15 amp circuit the 20amp gfci probably wont trip for awhile if there is a problem, but hopefully the 15 amp breaker in the breaker box down line will, but maybe too late.
The gfci doesn't trip when there are to many amps on it the rest of your comment is true though.
@@MountaineerOutdoors I should have said if you run a 20amp gfci with a 15 amp circuit breaker and there is a fault...the 15A circuit breaker would proably trip before the 20A gfci.
yeah i had the same question
@@gtnoslp the size of the GFCI has nothing to do with the breaker, it does not act as an over current protector.
Nice video, just a reminder 20 amp duplex receptacles are not permitted on 15 amp circuits. If you want heavier duty 15 receptacles go to the electrical supply house and buy specification grade devices.
I bought a GE GFCI and it has a plate and a screw and no hole unless the plate is up, so I put the wire behind the plate and it works. omg thank you...
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting
So white, neutral, and load all refer to the same white wire? My understanding is that the white/neutral/load wire goes to power the other receptacles powered and protected by the GFCI. Yes? Awesome video, by the way. At 59, I’m just learning how to do some of my own work around the house. Thanks!
You have a romex coming into the box. One black and one white with ground. That set is the line hot and nuetral is line if you are protecting another receptacle down the line from that. That romex is load. The hot on that romex is load and the nuetral is load. I appreciate you watching and commenting
Awesome video. Thanks for taking the time to put this together. Very well done! God Bless brother.
I appreciate you watching and commenting.
Clear, informative, video. Thank you!
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
This is good.I learned from it.I ran it at 1.5 playback speed.It is easy to understand and saves time.The info is good but it's not 12 minutes of info.
😂 😂 I read your other comment I know I do ramble.. Thanks for watching and commenting ☺
@@MountaineerOutdoors My wife would say I shouldn't accuse someone of rambling.
@@markr8904 no that's ok I know that I do it and I appreciate honesty alot. I definitely don't take offense to it and I do try not to ramble but sometimes I just forget 😂 😂 😂.. Anyway no harm no foul and I appreciate you and your comment. I hope that you have a great day ☺.
Saved me an electrical bill. Many thanks.
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
Thanks for the help, great video. If I was an electrician, I hope I would think like you do!
Well I appreciate the nice words. Thanks for watching and commenting ☺
My daughter's boyfriend bought an older house recently that was wired without grounds. 2 pole outlets. It wouldn't pass the electrical inspection for the mortgage company so I went over there and put GFCI outlets in every receptacle parallel wired. It was cheaper than rewiring the entire house which was mostly block, and a lot safer than leaving it the way it was.
Yep that will definitely satisfy code.
Thanks for the video. I have an extra red wire. Where does that go? LOL. I know that this is the end of the line for this particular cable and is feeding no other circuit beyond it. I cannot say for sure but I believe it is the only receptacle on this line as it is for a Dishwasher and GARBAGE DISPOSAL and the main CB is rated at 20A. I used a 20 GFCB here too.
I am not sure on that unless they were gonna feed the dishwasher and the garbage disposal and share the nuetral.
@@MountaineerOutdoors you got it. They split the line side by removing their connection. This allows for two phases of line voltage and the neutral is shared.
Gotcha well at least you got it figured it. Have a great night
In this case, since the load is not something plugged into the outlet, the load would be one or more outlets further down the line, i.e. further away from the breaker box, and any ground fault in one of those outlets further down the line would trip this GFI box, thus this GFI outlet can protect several outlets whose feeds are attached to the load side of this one GFI outlet. If I am incorrect, please correct me.
From what I am reading yes you are right
You are correct. No need to replace every outlet on the same circuit.
That's for your view its very informative. I had 2 gfi's blow in my kitchen one was a result of my wife using the microwave, it burnt the adjacent outlet, I changed the outlet and the jumper wires, flipped the breaker and the other outlet burned. Now I've replaced both and it doesn't work, I tested the black and white neutral and the black is 120v and the neutral is 12v, should me neutral have voltage?
Are you going to ground? Nuetral to ground? You should have 120 hot to ground but not nuetral to ground
@@MountaineerOutdoors
I'm not sure. It's an older house so I think there's no ground wires. I'm having an issue rewiring the new gfi seems to have 2 live instead of just 1 black live. I'm guessing when the gfi got burnt it melted the neutral and a live wire in the same conduit causing some voltage in the neutral.
That stinks. Can you just rewire it completely new back to your panel
@@MountaineerOutdoors thanks I'll give that a try.
Great video, especially for guys like me who aren't great with electrical, everything else, okay .Just not with electrical, so thanks again.
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
Best GFCI tutorial !!!!
Thank you ☺
My room/office now has 2 prong outlets. I'm looking to upgrade to 3 prong grounded outlets. And I want to add a window AC Unit so I can work in the summer. I know how to change a outlet, but for adding a 3 prong, I've decided to call a electrician. The office is in a finished attic so it gets hot in the summer and with equipment, I definitely need AC and a fan won't cut it.
Hopefully it's not too jych trouble to get things grounded and made safe/updated.
Make sure that they don't just replace it with a grounded plug when there is no ground in there. They must use a gfi to satisfy the code or pull a new wire to make it grounded.
@@MountaineerOutdoors Please clarify for this newbie with similar concerns: "pull a new wire to make it grounded." By "a wire" do you mean one ground wire? Can a (thin) ground wire alone be fished/pulled through existing conduit or ancient bx lacking a ground wire buried within plaster & lathe ? many thanks for your reply & videos.
If you have a conduit you can add s ground if you have room in the conduit. If it's a romex you cannot pull a loose ground wire by code. It needs to be under one sheath. So, if it's inside the conduit yes, romex no. It has to be s brand new romex
Great. Great teaching thank you very much, Sir
Always my pleasure ☺
Short and berife Great .I really appreciate it. Thank you
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
good studff. Thanks. I have a bunch of outlets to install/replace. but if you install a 20 amp GFCI outlet doesnt the circuit its on also need to be 20 amps at the circuit box? Ir is it ok to use a higher rated outlet for a lesser curcuit as long as you dont go the other way around?? please advise? thanks
No if it's a 20 amp circuit you can use 20 amp. 15 amp only good for 15 amp receptacles. Good question.
I like it. More education is required in order for me to take this on. Thank you!
Great job!! That was just what we needed! God bless!
Awesome thanks for watching and commenting ☺
So, can you tell me, is the amperage-rating at the outlet... determined strictly by the outlet itself?
Or, does it have anything to do with the capability of the house to transmit one or the other?
In other words, is there ever a possibility that any particular structure's system is only CAPABLE of 15-Amps and a 20-Amp outlet would be pointless... or, possibly, even trip a breaker, should a 20-Amp appliance be used?
That must be the legrand GFCI? I just pulled one out this morning when I found an open ground with my new outlet tester. Sure enough someone hadn’t connected the ground wire; in fact they were cut shorter than the hots and neutrals. So I took a length of 14-ga and twisted it with the two other ground wires in the box, and connected to the ground screw on the outlet.
That’s when I noticed the hots and neutrals were going into the back. I was going to move them to the screws, but then I noticed that the plates were the type you described. So I just re-inserted and cranked down in each screw.
P.S. - Looks like Lowe’s isn’t carrying legrand anymore and is instead now carrying Eaton.
I need never understand why people cut the wire so short. Good find though. Glad to hear that it's fixed.
Another great video, new to Chanel, going to have to watch more videos in the days to come as I work on finishing my basement. Cheers
Thank you for watching I appreciate it alot.. I have alot more to come ..have a great day
When you substitute a 20 amp gfci for the 15 amp, do you upgrade the wire and circuit breaker?
That would definitely be the way to do it correctly
I have been binge watching your electrical video's for the past two days. Great videos. I do have one request that I dont see in your feed and I need to know how to do this (if possible). I have a lighted Ceiling Fan in my living room, all on one light switch. I want to know how to add a dimmer switch just for the light part, maybe one switch for the fan and one dimmer switch for the light. Can the be done, if so, HOW
Yes the easiest way is to get a remote. However, if you want to do it like Your saying you would need to have a 12-3 or a 14-3 down to your switch. But you are right I don't have video like that but definitely need to have one. Good idea for a video. Thanks for watching my video I really appreciate it. ☺
Thank-you! You helped solve my problem. Subbed and liked.
Awesome thank you for your subscrption...I appreciate it 😄
Hello, very informative video! I am trying to find out the problem with two exterior gfci outlets, one has reset/test buttons. I have no power on both. I am unable to push the reset button which indicates to me that it is not getting the power. I checked and reset all gfci outlets in the house and they are working. The circuit breaker has not tripped either. Could you please let me know what troubleshhting I should do before I proceed with replacing? Thank you in advance!
If I were there the first thing I would do is turn off the circuit breaker, pull out the gfi out of the box and leave it hanging out, I would make sure it was safe from dogs and kids then turn the beaker back on. Go out with a induction tester (tick tester) or meter and see if I had power to the wires coming into the back of the gfi. My guess is that your gfi is bad. If it shows power my next guess is that maybe you have lost a nuetral. If that proves still no power it may be that you have a open joint somewhere..go to the next place that wire goes (junction box etc) and see if you have power there. If they still doesn't fix your problem message me back I'll tell you a few other things that you can do. Let me know
Thank you so much for the detailed suggestions on troubleshooting. I will do these and keep you posted. Have a great day!
@@SurLover you too. Good luck
@@MountaineerOutdoors sorry for the delay. I had to buy induction tester and multimeter from Amazon to test these. i found that the cable pair feeding LOAD terminal have 120 V but the LINE terminals have no power. I opened both outdoor receptacles and there were no loose or unconnected cables. I also bought a new GFCI and replaced just to check. Test and Reset buttons on the new GFCI cannot be pressed either. Just to give some background. This problem happened after a contractor used the outlets to run thier cement mixtures. Could this be due to burned fuse on the main box then? I would appreciate your further guidance. Thanks!
@@SurLover switch the line with the load seems that you have it backwards. Line is supposed to have the power.
All my wiring is 14 gage Romex ana knob and tube.. I should use a 15amp cgfi correct?
Yes and your breaker should only be a 15 amp breaker as well
If u are upgrading from a old two prong non-grounded outlet and u put a gfci, do u need the ground hooked up?
If you have a ground, you don't need to use the gfci as long as it goes back to the panel. If you don't have a ground there is nothing to hook up so no
Thank you ever so much! I learned so much in so little time! God bless you!
I am so glad this helped. Thanks for watching and commenting ☺
Can't help but agree with the comment from B Lawson, I watched and listened 3 times and although you didn't reference or say that you can put a 20amp GFCI on a 15amp breaker. You statement about using them "all the time, (you didn't have one in your pocket, because you never use them" gives that impression. Your response was that you quoted wrong and would correct that statement. Someone looking to install a GFCI receptacle that's not going to read the comment's will never know that the code states you can "ONLY INSTALL A 20 AMP GFCI ON A 20 AMP BREAKER. As I said I watched 3 times and only found your correction of the misleading information in the comments to everyone that has brought this to your attention. I did however see your disclaimer at the end that you were holding yourself harmless if someone follows you advice. Instead of quoting to me the obvious, maybe you could post another video and go over the compatibility of breakers, and the various gages of wire and what would happen if someone were to overload a circuit and cause a fire. Which is what can happen if someone follows your advice and installs a 20amp GFCI and the gage of wire isn't heavy enough to carry the load.
Ok I re-watched my video again 2 more times. NEVER did I ever mention that you should put a 20 amp on a 15 amp circuit ever. Also the only thing that I said which when I did say it was I prefer 20 amp receptacles. That statement did not say put a 20 amp on a 15 amp circuit. Also, I only pull 20 amp circuits 12 Guage wire to all my receptacles anyway. Now your correct per code a 20 must stay on a 20 amp.. The way you interpret this is beyond me, getting that I said something that I didn't say. Now to make it more clear I deleted it where I said I prefer a 20 amp Recep. That should make it all better so no one will hear something that wasn't said.
This is a great video.
"Black to brass to save my ass"...helps me remember.
Definitely one I will now remember 😂 😂 😂
Can you show a video on how to connect multi GCFI for outdoor use
I'll see what I can do it's basically the same thing as the video just adding more
That’s how you do a tutorial. Good vid
I appreciate it alot thanks for watching and commenting ☺
@@MountaineerOutdoors right to business, a man can appreciate that. Do you have a vid like this for a 4 way switch? Cause it’s really kicking my ass lol
ua-cam.com/video/5NBKHV1KCsw/v-deo.html here is a detailed one and this one is a simplified one ua-cam.com/video/kxkNC3AeAfY/v-deo.html
I'm looking to build a fake wall like you have, but smaller -- about 3' x 3' -- with various receptacles to practice wiring (e.g. 2-way switches). What is the best /safest way to power this?
I would recommend that you power the switch, Recep with a plug end. That way you will be safe. Use a gfi too for the wall receps to plug into.
@@MountaineerOutdoors Would using an extension cord work? ... male end pluged into existing home GFCE and other end wired to recep/switch in the fake wall.
@@jkimo1178 honestly that what I do
plug it in.
Thanks for the class.
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
So the GFCI always needs to be fed directly through the panel ( a homerun), it's the first in your circuit and then your daisy chain comes off that ? Correct?
No it doesn't need to be the first one. It can be but doesn't have to be.
Extremely helpful - thank you!
Glad to hear this thanks for watching and commenting ☺
I have a recirculating water pump under my sink connected to a gfi ,and that gfi comes from another gfi which is tripping why wouldnt the gfi where the the pump is connected not trip but the other does?the gfi trips when i turn the pump on..was thinking of putting a regular outlet instead of the gfi ,any suggestions, thanks
My first question is this. The gfi are they new? Did someone just recently put them in? Have you tried anything else on the circuit to see if it still has trips. If not.. My second guess is that the in rush may be tripping it out but a recirc pump usually doesn't pull too much. If you use just a regular Recep might want to think about a single Recep. Code says that one dedicated device can be without gfi protection if it's only used for that one device.. Ie.. Washing machine, ice maker etc. Back to the gfi they possible can be tripping due to being hooked up wrong. Usually you only use one gfi for a circuit. But done correctly you can do it like that, what you are describing. Let me know what you find
“Line in, Load out” is how I remember it.
Yep you got it
I have a question about the extra line on the GFCI you show in this video. If a 20 amps GFCI is marked by that extra line on neutral slot is to signify that it is 20amp rather than 15amp why doesn't my GFCI have that extra line, I can read on side of case on mine that it is a 20amp and it is hooked to a 20 amp breaker too.
From what I have been able to look up and I have not run into this that I know of...but its rated at 20 for feed through but classified as a 15 amp...seems kinda wonky to me but good question.
love this how to, thanks bunches
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
I like it . Really interesting and useful
Hey guy; I was just checking to reassure i knew what I thought I knew. Love the line of Bull:))) Politicians come to mind.
I am constructing a dust collection system, Utilizing a old Delta motor and impeller unit.
I opened the (switch) on motor and the Neutral wire coming in runs thru a 25 Amp trip.
The Black/power is hooked up to, It is stamped (Load) side of switch.
When I look at wiring diagram on motor, it's showing Line Neutral and Power coming in same side of switch and then feeding motor..
Am I missing something within the (how works) of that switch?
I have purchased a remote start kit.
Best; Tom
Without seeing a diagram I would assume that it's a double pole double throw switch.. Just a guess. Good luck with your project sounds like a good weekend project
@@MountaineerOutdoors Hey young man, Thanks for the fast response:)) I was doing the what /how thinking. It appears if the (motor) 25 amp breaker trips I automatically kicks the switch to the off position. If you have time, The 1 1/2 Hp which tells it pulls 14,7 amps, motor is new factory wired for 115v 20 amp but it has a 25 amp trip breaker wired in it. Why? Best; Tom
My thoughts on the 25 amp is because of the start up of the motor. Motors always have more amps for a brief moment while they are starting up and ramping up to the correct rpm.
I live in a old house with only a white and black wire. Will the gfci work with no ground? If so how is the hook-up done? And how to test?
Well without a ground wire you will not be able to trip the gfi. The white wire goes to the silver screw and the black wire goes to the brass screw.
very well explained
I appreciate it ☺
Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter. Nice video!
Everyone says they don't like the receptacles with the quick connects, but I've been using them for 10 years and I've never had a problem. If you stick the wire in and get it tight, it's not coming out.
I think the classic spring style quick connect gives them the bad wrap. They are nothing like that. They have way more in common with a connection found on a screw terminal board (also found in your main panel before you say those are dangerous). The screw is still directly applying the pressure to the conductor. I get how it’s if it’s looped it won’t slide out because it can’t come off, but you can still wind up with crap contact if the screw backs up a little and potentially get nasty arcing.
People hate change without thinking through the logic of what’s actually happening.
Nicely done video. Easy to watch, great info!
Thank you friend I appreciate it ☺
I saw the green screw, but how do you know which of the two side screws is white or black? Never mind I rewatched that part of the video and see that you said the bigger prong is white. :-) Thank you so much for the video!
The nuetral is a silver color and the hot is black or brass colored. Or the bigger side like you mentioned. Thank you for watching and commenting... Have a great day ☺
Good rule of thumb. Wide = White
Take a load stabbing in the back terms I can relate cellie. Thanks for uploading the video.
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
Hello thank you fir the video 💡🌻🇺🇸
My pleasure...thanks for watching and commenting
Is there some info about GFCI breakers? What are two black wires to a GFCI breaker and the white wire?
What kinda panel? Are you sure you don't have a shunt breaker? Anyway I want to do a video on them. Should only have 1 white wire then the curly one plus the hot (black wire)
Do these need to be above bathroom sink? I would like to install one opposite of another room that has one at 6" above baseboard or so. I am installing a bidet and would like it behind toilet.
Yes anywhere there is water. Kitchen, bathroom, etc
@@MountaineerOutdoors I know around water, but do I have options on where to put them. As low as the normal ones? Is there a required height? Above level of sink?
You can put them anywhere you see fit. there is absolutely no code on height at all. Is this what your asking?
@@MountaineerOutdoors Yes thanks. Also can I connect it to a regular outlet on opposite wall? My plan was to remove outlet from opposite side, drill a small hole to see where it lines up in bath, and then cut one in if it works there. Wire from the other outlet to new GFCI.
I don't see why not. Sounds like you have quite the project going on. Good luck
Great explanation! Thank you.
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting
Awesome! Love these videos! Glad to see you are keeping them coming!
Yep I have a whole series now starting
The outlet under my sink where the garbage disposal and dishwasher washer are connect has one plug showing open hot. I’m guessing that’s wrong. The switch that powers the disposal on and off is under there as well a few feet away. When I connect the disposal on one of the plugs 🔌 it stays on all the time. I’m guessing that’s where the washer is suppose to be connected to. When I connect it to the other plug, it doesn’t power on at all when I flip the switch. This outlet is connected with a GFCI that keeps tripping on a separate wall. Any recommendations on what I can do to fix this? Obviously my electrical knowledge needs to grow. 😃
Ok I Have questions... First the one Recep that is showing open hot is because the switch is off. When the switch is turned on it will say correct. The other plug is for the dishwasher. The dishwasher thing. Has it always done that???
Mountaineer Outdoors the dishwasher seems to be fine. I’m not sure if one of the plugs is suppose to say open hot all the time. How should they read? Again, when I plug the disposal on one of the recep, it turns on right away and I have to unplug it to turn off. I’m guessing the disposal should not be connected to that one. Can you explain how it would be connected?
Most disposals are on a switch on the wall. My guess is that if it's a duplex receptacle maybe the top Recep of the duplex is the switch part and the bottom is constant hot or visa versa. It's really hard to tell you for sure unless I was there.
Mountaineer Outdoors ok I got a little more info. When I plug an outlet tester the lights show “open hot” when the switch that controls the disposal is “off”. When I flip the switch “on” the tester lights shows normal/working fine. Is this how it should be? Also, if I plug 🔌 the disposal to the other rep, it turns on right away. No need to flip the switch. I think this second recep is working the way it should be. Hopefully this makes sense
Honestly it seems like that's right. I don't see any problems with your set up
i'll try to make this short, what if you have two gfci outlets outside on two different breakers but when you plug things with a heavy load (like an electric smoke, or air compressor) they trip instantly? i've replaced both 20 amp outlets and they still trip, and i realize that would usually mean whatever i plugged into it had a bad ground but its happened with most things i plug into the outlets. should i just wire in a standard outlet and be down with it? also the things that are making the outlet trip work fine on standard outlets and also worked fine at my last house without tripping the gcfi's.
Ok questions, is this on a gfci/arc fault breaker? You shouldn't change out the gfi to regular unless you put in a gfi breaker. It's definitely there for your protection. It may be sensing a ground... Or it's completely possible that your ground and nuetral is touching inside the Recep box... Ive seen that before. Make sure that your air compressor will work on other gfi's before doing anything drastic.. If they trip out other gfi's then it could possibly be your stuff. Keep me posted
You need a bigger breaker installed. Your circuit is prob 20 amp. Mine does the same thing so I need to run a big extension cord into my house when using my air compressor to plug it into an outlet thats on a 25amp breaker/circuit
In most communities 15 Amp receptacles are for residential and 20 Amp are used for commercial.
Yep but homeowners now are wanting them. So if they are paying you have to do what is right by them
@@MountaineerOutdoors Yeah, you just have to watch out for those municipalities that have specific code stating that residential has to have NEMA 5-15R for 120VAC.
Great steps on hook a GFCI
☺ Thanks
Would you install a 20 amp gfci on a 15 amp circuit (14 gauge wire)?
I would stick to 15 amp gfi
Putting any 20A receptacle on a 15A circuit would be dangerous and illegal. You may install a 15A device on a 20A circuit, if it is "listed and labeled" for that use.
New Sub...so even if the circuit is 15 amps you would install a 20 amp GFCI correct?
NO I did miss quote it here. I did pin a comment at the top of the video which gives the code number and tell exactly how to do it correctly I will be doing another video to correct my mistake and bring the gospel to everyone.
How many times have you slipped off with that slotted screwdriver and gouged your hand? You should mention that the 20 amp plug doesn't give you 20 amps unless you have a 20 amp breaker. Where I live you now have to use tamper resistant plugs. Also if you are retro fitting a gfi plug make sure the box is big enough especially if there are more than 2 wires and maybe marette caps. Some codes now require arc fault circuit breakers for all but a few locations. you may have to install a gfi arc fault combo breaker. I've just had $2200.00 of breakers installed in my new house.
Wow yes everything you said is 110% correct. As for that slotted screw.... Uhhhh they certainly are terrible on the hand. In the future I will definitely mention that. Have a great day and thanks for watching and commenting ☺
what if it's an older home and no grounding on the outlets in the home. How would you go about grounding the outlets. The outlets do no have a grounded copper wire only a black and white wire
Have to use gfci or non grounding plugs. Or last option rewire. Here is how I fixed this house ua-cam.com/video/Gr8wxfKfEtY/v-deo.html
Informative and well done.
Thank you I appreciate it ☺
I have 4 wires(2 hots and two neutrals) and a copper ground wire. Secured the hot wires to the copper(hot) terminals and the white neutrals to their side and of course the ground to the ground screw. After replacement, the outlet does not seem to be working. Any tips?
Are you sure it's hooked up to the line side with hot and nuetral on the line side?
@@MountaineerOutdoors I will have to check again tomorrow. I am guessing it is in a run of other receptacles due to two sets of wires. I think I found a wiring diagram and will compare. Thanks!
Ok let me know im curious
@@MountaineerOutdoors Got a receptacle tester and none of the lights illuminate(open hot?). Also, the contactless voltage detector does not detect any power to the wires with the breaker on. I find it strange because the previous outlet worked.
Wow that is not good. Are you sure that your beaker is on? And there isn't any other gfi on the circuit
I would like put a gif iny garage ,I'm going to plug a refrigerator into it. Does it need to be a 20 amp? And I do a gif for a refrigerator or regular receptacle?
Code says yes it has to be a gfci. Now if you call your local inspector and ask him he may say yes or he may tell you that if you run a dedicated circuit to it you can put it on a regular receptacle. My honest opinion is that you should call him and ask. It's free to ask the question and he technically has the last say. Let me know what you find out
@@MountaineerOutdoors ok thanks.i will so I need to call the inspector who let's you know wats up to code?
also,is it a safety hazard to run an extension cord from the refrigerator to the gfci?
Yes call the inspector and tell them your situation. As for the extension cord I would only use a extension cord temporary and make sure that it's at least a 12 Guage cord. Not some cheap 16 Guage one. Let me know what your inspector says.
Thank you for this. You explain everything for us idiot new homeowners. Thank you! (I promise to always turn the power off!)
😂 😂 😂 😂 I don't think homeowners are idiots 😂 😂 😂 I appreciate you watching and commenting have a great day ☺
liked and subbed learned something new today @1:01 and important, difference between 15 & 20's and also about GFCI's dude you rock
That's awesome!!! I appreciate you subscription too have a great day ☺
Great presentation, thanks for the info straight to the point.
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
Unless I'm mistaken, the reason that you shouldn't back wire a standard receptacle is because it doesn't hold the wire with a plate when the screw is tightened. The wire can easily be pulled out of the receptacle and cause big problems.
Yep definitely
I love that he checks his pocket for a 15ma GFI.. like "damn, I thought I had one on me..."
😂😂 yep
Thx bro. Big help
My pleasure glad to hear that helped
In this video or maybe it was another one of yours do I see a Suzuki parked there?Is it a V-Strom?
It's a klr650.. Hope to get a Harley soon thanks for watching and commenting ☺
Good video!👍👍👍💙
Why does the top and bottom have 2 holes? I noticed he but the hot in the higher hole on the hot side, then he put the neutral in the lower hole on the neutral side. Why not both top or both bottom? What would you use 2 holes for on each side?
If you are referring to the line side it's so you can come off with another wire and not have it be gfci protected
Do you have a video that explains the load on them?
I'm not exactly sure what you are asking.
So once you start your circuit with 12 wire can you go to 14 wire further down the line?
You can but you need to protect the smallest wire, which would be the 14 Guage.
Changing your wire to a smaller wire down the line requires you to protect the entire circuit to the smaller gauge wire. Now you have a 15 amp circuit.
I remember it by the tape is there to keep you from hooking up to that unless you know what your doing.
If you install a 20 amp GFCI , the wiring supplying it has to be 12 gauge. You should not put a 20 amp one on 14 gauge wire even though it works , the wire may over heat on a 19 amp load if it didn't trip the 15 amp breaker that is protecting the 14 gauge wire.
I fully agree.. With This statement..
It's perfectly ok as long as the breaker in the panel is rated at 15 amps. You can't draw 20 amps magically because you use a 20 amp GFCI, breaker determines max output.
Exactly