Was able to install the Cree3000 on my travel trailer myself. Made a huge difference. Especially because my wife and I like to boondocks which generally means dirt roads. Upgraded the wet bolts and shackles as well. Did this off recommendation from one of your previous videos. Thanks for all the great information you give. Much appreciated 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Totally agree that the suspension is critical to the longevity and safety of an RV and it is a wise to upgrade I upgraded my fifth wheel suspension with Roadmaster Slipper Springs, Shocks and disc brakes. I pulled less than 100 feet in a parking lot and could tell the difference immediately in my 1 ton truck. Of course this is significantly more expensive than the SRE and CRE suspensions. But it completely isolates each axle. There are several quality suspensions available in the after market. After the upgrade, I’ll never have another RV without this or equivalent upgrade. Best $$$ I’ve spent on my RV. This I learned from you, thanks JD.
I could have swore this was my comment. I did the EXACT upgrade and can’t believe the performance of not only the suspension but the Kodiak disc brakes. I run Continental HT on my truck and love them. Curious how they perform on the trailer.
We upgraded the factory equalizer on our 2015 Keystone Hideout about a year ago. Installed the MoreRyde CRE3000 (with new heavy duty shackles, wet bolts and brass bushings) myself in a couple of hours. I was shocked and dismayed at the condition of the factory equalizers when I took them off. The bolt holes were all ovalled out with less than a quarter of an inch of metal left between the bolt hole and the edge. Those were just a catastrophe waiting to happen. SOOOOO glad I changed them out. That's one of the first upgrades I'll do from now on on any future towable.
Any thing that reduces shock to your rig is always going to be “good thing”! Just received my Morryde wet bolt kit and that’s the next thing to add! Already have the road armor system.
Many manufacturers do include them as standard on their RVs. Even some lower cost units, such as all Chaparrals and Grand Designs have then standard on Fifth wheels.
100% agree. It seems like the OEM's manufacture RV's that are slightly deficient so that they can spin-off an 3rd party parts company that can fix those shortcomings. I hate that it happens, but I think we can all agree that it happens all of the time. Don't get the upgrade, pay for the repairs and ultimately the upgrade. Get the upgrade pay for it upfront. It's an interesting industry for sure.
I mounted up new Goodyear endurance tires this year and had them balanced. From the factory they were not balanced and now that they are I can def feel a difference. Will always balance my tires for now on.
Always good technical advice here that is well presented. Although I have to admit I look in on the videos that focus on useful accessories and upgrades. I'm now on my third travel trailer and I'm a hands on guy so there is some good real world information not only on equipment but maintenance too. I am amazed at some of the other videos about huge trucks and towable RV's. Even with above average incomes my wife and I make I doubt we'll ever shell the approximately $150,000 investment that a new 3/4 or 1 ton truck and 30-40 foot travel trailer or 5th wheel requires. That was not meant as a knock at you or your channel. There are customers and enthusiasts at all levels of the market so it's great to see the latest information on the best equipment too.
That's why the suspension was first thing I looked when buying our toy hauler. Seeing the heavy lift springs and shocks was a selling point to me. Leaf spring fatigue is a real thing too.
I swapped out the equalizer on my travel trailer for a CRE3000 spread axel version. It made a HUGE difference. Stuff wasn't all over the place inside the trailer after driving a couple hundred miles. And I felt way less chucking when stopping or hitting bumps.
Ditto, it made an amazing difference. I also upgraded to the wet bolts at the same time. My new trailer with 100 miles on it already had the plastic bushings worn through. The brass bushing inserts are so much better.
Balancing tires makes a lot of sense to me; but when I replaced the tires with Endurance's the Goodyear tire shop longtime owner who does own a 5th wheel, said he'd balance them if I insisted but said over the years he suggested people do not. Said it was a waste of money. My thoughts were the same as your analogy about the car and vibration though. After all the trailer goes the same speed and road the pulling vehicle is going.
Even though I had a relatively light travel trailer at a GVWR of 6500 lbs I still installed the CRE3000 system on it and I would say it made a significant difference. And it was relatively inexpensive. I have since sold the trailer and are awaiting our new 5th wheel which comes equipped with the Road Armor suspension system. Looking forward to that.
I have the Cree3000 on my 2022 Grand Design 310 GK-R with 17.5 Cooper tires. I tow with F-250 (with heavy haul option). I am considering adding Timbren Rear Suspension Enhancement system. Any thoughts on the Timbren system?
Hey jd in April I installed the dexter ez flex and it made a huge difference running down the road also my tires are 227/75/15 e rated the gross on my travel trailer is 10,000 I just found these CARLISLE CSL 16 225/75R15, 120/115M, F (12 Ply) haven’t seen reviews yet not many f rated 15 inch options
@@BTBRVReviews I remember that,it was quite a long time ago. It would be nice to have showing the different performances in brands. Let’s say this, I would like to see the difference in brands over challenging conditions. I have the Cre 3000 installed with the heavy Duty shackle straps and greaseable wet bolts. I have a nice ride in the fifth wheel.
This is the problem with RV’s. You always have to upgrade things with aftermarket bits and parts. Pretty much like the RV industry just uses the bare minimum part to move the thing out the factory and onto the dealer lot. One of the reasons unless it’s a new construction custom build, I always buy used since the previous owner usually did upgrades and improvements.
I’ll stack a no frills base model car construction over an RV manufacturer any day of the week i regards to quality control and drive off the lot customer care. In regards for Harleys….I have no idea folks are infatuated with them.
Thank you for the info! Random query: I bought new leaf springs, wet bolts and U bolts at an RV Surplus Store and then after the fact, decided to order the Road Armor equalizer before doing the install. How necessary is it to get the heavy-duty shackles? I was hoping I could skip them and save that extra cost since my existing shackles don't have any visual issues...but people seem to ALWAYS get the thicker shackles when doing this job. Thanks again.
Quick question, other than soaking up the road… Has anyone who has done a suspension mod on a travel trailer seen any improvement in MPG? If so did you think it was worth the upfront cost. We’ll be trading up in a year or so. Should I just hold off? Thanks for any input!
Tell me about those Continentals please. I’m surprised you don’t have the Sailuns on. I run Continental HT on my Ram 3500 and I think they are the best tire I have ever had. I’m curious because my Montana came with the Sailuns but I am not opposed to upgrading to a better tire. Thanks
I installed the CRE3000 with wet bolts and Roadmaster Comfort Ride shocks on our TT for about $800. In total it took about 6-7 hours. If I can do it, anybody can.
This is definitely on the menu for next year. Our TT is a 2015 and it’s just getting shaken apart inside. I have noticed the cre3000 is quite cheaper than the Road Armor. Is the RA worth the extra $$. We don’t tow more than 4-6X/year Thanks
Can you tell me why you went to the Road Armor instead of the Morryde SRE4000 that you previously installed on a 5th wheel in 2017? I’m planning to upgrade my system on a Vanleigh Pinecrest 335RLP and I am trying to decide which system to install.
Would upgrading to an equalizer on a smaller dual axle TT (3500-4500 lbs. dry) provide the same benefits as it would on the larger TT's & 5th Wheels I've generally seen equalizers on in your videos? Just curious if an equalizer is generally used on the larger units only or if the smaller, lighter units could benefit from these too
I literally just installed the same system from LCI on our 08’ Jayco Eagle. I haven’t pulled the rig yet, should i be able to feel any difference through the tow vehicle as well? Pulling with a 16’ F-450.
@@BTBRVReviews thanks JD! We bought our rig used early last year and you have been a wealth of knowledge for upgrades, both comfort and safety. We head out for our longest drive with the rig in about a month and I’ve been trying to do as much before we leave to be prepared as i can. Now just to install my new viair OBA system on the F-450! Lol
LCI actually advised against converting since most of their frame rails are not designed for IS. They even advised against upgrading a unit to their own Torsion Axle system.
I recently upgraded to the MorRyde 3000 with the heavy duty shackle straps and wet bolts. I does make a big difference. What do you think about adding Sumo Springs? Would that be overkill?
Does anyone upgrade the springs as well? My trailer is 9 years old and had my first spring break last year. Would like to upgrade to Moryde 3000 system, but I don't seem to hear anything about springs.
Thank you so much for teaching me how to tow a travel trailer. I have a Jayco Jayflight 28BHS and need to upgrade the suspension. What would you recommend? You probably get this question all the time but this is vehicle specific for cross country travel. Should I go with the CRE 3000 and wet bolts or do you know if there’s something better I should go with? Please let me know and thank you so much for all the content you create! Keep up the great work!
Hi how are you. I have been watching your UA-cam videos and I find them very helpful. I am a subscriber as well.My name is Steve. I have looked at the Redwood and spoke to a factory rep who I might be meeting in PA for that big RV show in September. I live in NYC and I’m thinking of going full time in a fifth wheel. I’m just nervous about all the stories and reviews about issues of so many problems with all these RVS. I don’t have dealers close to me and I’m still running my businesses in this area and have to be personally in the area for my clients. Do you have any advice how I should proceed. I’m not made of money but have good credit to get what I need which still has to be paid back. I don’t want to end up in hotels and paying back a rv loan without having my rig. I’m single and have two German Shepherd doggies. Please advise. Thank you.
It was jacked up and the shackles flipped, and no ever noticed it and corrected them before they put the RV back on the ground, he didn’t even notice this while filming..
I have a 2006 Dutchmen Winners Circle 34 foot and it would bounce up and down while driving down the road. I upgraded to the CRE3000 and I thought it would eliminate the bouncing but it did not. Any suggestions on what is causing the bouncing?
@@BTBRVReviews I actually have new leaf springs. It did not help. I installed 3500 lbs per axle and it still did not help. I actually broke the rear hanger once. I appreciate your response! I watch your channel all the time for some valuable tips!
Sorry, JD, but I kinda gotta call you out on this one... You sounded like you understood, but then you went right back to saying some tandems, "don't have any kind of suspension equalizer". I have been pulling all types of trailers most of my entire driving career (since '99), hold an Associate's in Automotive Technology, and have been an RV tech since Sept. 2019, and I have never seen a multi a le trailer that wasn't homemade without some kind of equalizer. The solid metal piece is, in fact, an equalizer; just not an "upgraded" one. Also, it doesn't seem like you understand the purpose of the equalizer. It is not meant to dampen NVH (noise, vibration, harshness). It is simply there to EQUALIZE the load seen by either axle. Hence the name "equalizer". It ensures no one axle takes more of the load when going over road surface variations like speed bumps, driveway entrances, etc. It can also help minimize the effects of not having the trailer as level as you should when hitched up, ensuring whichever axle is on the "down hill side" of the lean doesn't take more than its fair share of the load, but there's a limit to how much it can help with that. Furthermore, the equalizer doesn't really do anything to reduce NVH or improve ride quality, because there are already rubber bushings in the leaf spring eyes which do that, not to mention that the equalizer would only be half the equation in that scenario, since you have the other end of each leaf spring still solidly mounted to the frame. These "upgraded" suspension equalizers are nothing more than snake oil. The Joyrider shock kit you had on the Chaparral is a REAL solution to dampening the ride, considering shocks are more correctly called dampeners, as the British and Aussies call them. Another point is about the issue of why you want more dampening in the first place. You went WAY overkill on the tire load capacity. You kinda mentioned it a bit, but you are mistaken in thinking the sidewall flex of CORRECTLY matched tires to the load doesn't contribute much to a smoother ride. If you had properly rated tires, the sidewall flex does every bit as much as the springs do to improving ride quality and reducing felt shock and NVH. I forgot to mention, I've also been a tire tech before, and my former colleagues and I, along with the RMA (Rubber Manufacturer's Association), would always recommend AGAINST installing LT (Light Truck) rated tires on applications that call for P (Passenger) rated tires. It dramatically impacts ride quality in a negative way. As it is, ST (Specialty Trailer) tires have stiffer sidewalls than even LT tires so they can stand up to the rigors of trailer life (being scrubbed through turns, clipping curbs, and the tendency of people to overload trailers. Going up several load ratings only serves to make things far worse. Not only that, but now your trailer won't be helping as much with braking, seeing as your tires are much stiffer, meaning they don't conform to the road surface as much, thus yielding a reduced contact patch. This is precisely the same reason an unladen semi truck actually doesn't stop as well as a fully loaded one, and why a lot of drivers hate bob-tailing. So many people have this irrational fear of trailer tire blowouts. I say it's irrational, because there is nothing wrong with running E rated tires, if that's what came on your rig from the factory. They're not going to put an underrated tire on and open themselves up to HUGE liability. Most RV tire failures are caused by lack of proper maintenance (specifically, keeping the air pressure where it needs to be), abuse (overloading, usually by not properly distributing load in the RV, thus placing more load on certain tires, less on others), and over speeding (running faster than the speed rating of the tire), as most ST tires have speed ratings far lower than one might think (and speed ratings are definitely an absolute thing! If you go over by even a little bit, you have just damaged that tire.) Let me close a a better note, though, and say you have done quite a fantastic job of educating yourself on towing safety, and then passing on that knowledge to many others. The amount of effort you put into researching everything for towing safety really shows. Your RV reviews are well put together, and very helpful in what you show. Hopefully, I have been able to help you to reach that same level on the issue of RV tires and suspension. Have a good one, and stay safe out there! Just remember, properly rated tires for the load and speed, keep on top of those air pressures, and be mindful of how you load your RV up.
My friend, obviously an equalizer's primary purpose is to "equalize" the load across the axles. You are not correct by saying there are rubber bushing in the eyelets of their leaf spring ends. In most cases there may be a cheap nylon bushing and in some cases it's a brass bushing. The term "suspension equalizer" is used to describe an equalizer with some type of built in or engineered "suspension component" that's part of the design. I use the term "standard equalizer" to describe a basic steel equalizer. I know you were just nit picking, but to believe that I don't know the function of a equalizer isn't not true at all since I've mentioned the purpase of them for years in multiple videos.
According to Keystone/Crossroads, if I upgrade the Equalizer and/or Shakels and add wet bolts on my New Zinger 280RB I will Violate the Warranty on my Trailer.
Was able to install the Cree3000 on my travel trailer myself. Made a huge difference. Especially because my wife and I like to boondocks which generally means dirt roads. Upgraded the wet bolts and shackles as well. Did this off recommendation from one of your previous videos. Thanks for all the great information you give. Much appreciated 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Totally agree that the suspension is critical to the longevity and safety of an RV and it is a wise to upgrade
I upgraded my fifth wheel suspension with Roadmaster Slipper Springs, Shocks and disc brakes. I pulled less than 100 feet in a parking lot and could tell the difference immediately in my 1 ton truck. Of course this is significantly more expensive than the SRE and CRE suspensions. But it completely isolates each axle. There are several quality suspensions available in the after market. After the upgrade, I’ll never have another RV without this or equivalent upgrade. Best $$$ I’ve spent on my RV. This I learned from you, thanks JD.
I could have swore this was my comment. I did the EXACT upgrade and can’t believe the performance of not only the suspension but the Kodiak disc brakes. I run Continental HT on my truck and love them. Curious how they perform on the trailer.
We upgraded the factory equalizer on our 2015 Keystone Hideout about a year ago. Installed the MoreRyde CRE3000 (with new heavy duty shackles, wet bolts and brass bushings) myself in a couple of hours. I was shocked and dismayed at the condition of the factory equalizers when I took them off. The bolt holes were all ovalled out with less than a quarter of an inch of metal left between the bolt hole and the edge. Those were just a catastrophe waiting to happen. SOOOOO glad I changed them out. That's one of the first upgrades I'll do from now on on any future towable.
Vouch for this video. I have the cree3000 and the wetbolts and the difference is amazing. Add some balancd gy endurance and you're set.
Any thing that reduces shock to your rig is always going to be “good thing”! Just received my Morryde wet bolt kit and that’s the next thing to add! Already have the road armor system.
Sounds like something that should just be standard equipment
Yeah but then rv’s would cost too much……oh wait.
Many manufacturers do include them as standard on their RVs. Even some lower cost units, such as all Chaparrals and Grand Designs have then standard on Fifth wheels.
100% agree. It seems like the OEM's manufacture RV's that are slightly deficient so that they can spin-off an 3rd party parts company that can fix those shortcomings. I hate that it happens, but I think we can all agree that it happens all of the time. Don't get the upgrade, pay for the repairs and ultimately the upgrade. Get the upgrade pay for it upfront. It's an interesting industry for sure.
I mounted up new Goodyear endurance tires this year and had them balanced. From the factory they were not balanced and now that they are I can def feel a difference. Will always balance my tires for now on.
i just installed dexter setup on my trailer, makes a noticable difference in ride
Always good technical advice here that is well presented. Although I have to admit I look in on the videos that focus on useful accessories and upgrades. I'm now on my third travel trailer and I'm a hands on guy so there is some good real world information not only on equipment but maintenance too.
I am amazed at some of the other videos about huge trucks and towable RV's. Even with above average incomes my wife and I make I doubt we'll ever shell the approximately $150,000 investment that a new 3/4 or 1 ton truck and 30-40 foot travel trailer or 5th wheel requires.
That was not meant as a knock at you or your channel. There are customers and enthusiasts at all levels of the market so it's great to see the latest information on the best equipment too.
That's why the suspension was first thing I looked when buying our toy hauler. Seeing the heavy lift springs and shocks was a selling point to me. Leaf spring fatigue is a real thing too.
I swapped out the equalizer on my travel trailer for a CRE3000 spread axel version. It made a HUGE difference. Stuff wasn't all over the place inside the trailer after driving a couple hundred miles. And I felt way less chucking when stopping or hitting bumps.
Ditto, it made an amazing difference. I also upgraded to the wet bolts at the same time. My new trailer with 100 miles on it already had the plastic bushings worn through. The brass bushing inserts are so much better.
Balancing tires makes a lot of sense to me; but when I replaced the tires with Endurance's the Goodyear tire shop longtime owner who does own a 5th wheel, said he'd balance them if I insisted but said over the years he suggested people do not. Said it was a waste of money. My thoughts were the same as your analogy about the car and vibration though. After all the trailer goes the same speed and road the pulling vehicle is going.
Even though I had a relatively light travel trailer at a GVWR of 6500 lbs I still installed the CRE3000 system on it and I would say it made a significant difference. And it was relatively inexpensive. I have since sold the trailer and are awaiting our new 5th wheel which comes equipped with the Road Armor suspension system. Looking forward to that.
That's a good idea to buy a re rig with it already installed.
Great Vid today, love info on this kind of thing as well look for travel trailers
I have the Cree3000 on my 2022 Grand Design 310 GK-R with 17.5 Cooper tires. I tow with F-250 (with heavy haul option). I am considering adding Timbren Rear Suspension Enhancement system. Any thoughts on the Timbren system?
ua-cam.com/video/WdwNvQhJ5cc/v-deo.html
Excellent teaching video about an important aspect to trailers.
Good stuff. Next video, talk us through the pin box, and the various upgrades there. Because I don’t understand chucking.
ua-cam.com/video/Sv-0aUEkWCQ/v-deo.html
Hey jd in April I installed the dexter ez flex and it made a huge difference running down the road also my tires are 227/75/15 e rated the gross on my travel trailer is 10,000 I just found these CARLISLE CSL 16
225/75R15, 120/115M, F (12 Ply) haven’t seen reviews yet not many f rated 15 inch options
Cameras showing the rig going over different terrain including the hated speed bumps would be a great addition to your point.
I have 4 or 5 videos showing this
@@BTBRVReviews I remember that,it was quite a long time ago. It would be nice to have showing the different performances in brands. Let’s say this, I would like to see the difference in brands over challenging conditions. I have the Cre 3000 installed with the heavy Duty shackle straps and greaseable wet bolts. I have a nice ride in the fifth wheel.
This is the problem with RV’s. You always have to upgrade things with aftermarket bits and parts. Pretty much like the RV industry just uses the bare minimum part to move the thing out the factory and onto the dealer lot. One of the reasons unless it’s a new construction custom build, I always buy used since the previous owner usually did upgrades and improvements.
You think the RV industry is bad about needing aftermarket upgrades. Try buying a Harley! 😆
@@TonyBenton0728 so true
I’ll stack a no frills base model car construction over an RV manufacturer any day of the week i regards to quality control and drive off the lot customer care. In regards for Harleys….I have no idea folks are infatuated with them.
@@HabitualButtonPusher you are right I do have one but not really a big fan of it the goldwing will out run it all day and its made by Honda
Thank you for the info! Random query: I bought new leaf springs, wet bolts and U bolts at an RV Surplus Store and then after the fact, decided to order the Road Armor equalizer before doing the install. How necessary is it to get the heavy-duty shackles? I was hoping I could skip them and save that extra cost since my existing shackles don't have any visual issues...but people seem to ALWAYS get the thicker shackles when doing this job. Thanks again.
Morryde here! Jayco 27.5 RL Half Ton
Always reliable & terrific advice!
Quick question, other than soaking up the road… Has anyone who has done a suspension mod on a travel trailer seen any improvement in MPG? If so did you think it was worth the upfront cost. We’ll be trading up in a year or so. Should I just hold off? Thanks for any input!
I need to replace or upgrade 96 jayco eagle bunkhouse suspension.....wonder if this would work.
I like those tires also !!!
Great info and well explained. Thank you.
Tell me about those Continentals please. I’m surprised you don’t have the Sailuns on. I run Continental HT on my Ram 3500 and I think they are the best tire I have ever had. I’m curious because my Montana came with the Sailuns but I am not opposed to upgrading to a better tire. Thanks
I installed the CRE3000 with wet bolts and Roadmaster Comfort Ride shocks on our TT for about $800. In total it took about 6-7 hours. If I can do it, anybody can.
This is definitely on the menu for next year. Our TT is a 2015 and it’s just getting shaken apart inside. I have noticed the cre3000 is quite cheaper than the Road Armor. Is the RA worth the extra $$. We don’t tow more than 4-6X/year
Thanks
Anything is better than nothing
Can you tell me why you went to the Road Armor instead of the Morryde SRE4000 that you previously installed on a 5th wheel in 2017? I’m planning to upgrade my system on a Vanleigh Pinecrest 335RLP and I am trying to decide which system to install.
Hey that’s my trailer 😵😵😵 guess I need to upgrade some of my suspension 🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪
Email me..I might be able to help with something. bigtruckbigrv@gmail.com
Have you looked into using Sumo springs between the axle and the trailer to reduce shock and vibration?
Already added
Did you do a review on the sumo springs? Is less stuff shifted around in your RV after adding them?
Would upgrading to an equalizer on a smaller dual axle TT (3500-4500 lbs. dry) provide the same benefits as it would on the larger TT's & 5th Wheels I've generally seen equalizers on in your videos? Just curious if an equalizer is generally used on the larger units only or if the smaller, lighter units could benefit from these too
I literally just installed the same system from LCI on our 08’ Jayco Eagle. I haven’t pulled the rig yet, should i be able to feel any difference through the tow vehicle as well? Pulling with a 16’ F-450.
Some claim they can, but i don't think it's very noticeable
@@BTBRVReviews thanks JD! We bought our rig used early last year and you have been a wealth of knowledge for upgrades, both comfort and safety. We head out for our longest drive with the rig in about a month and I’ve been trying to do as much before we leave to be prepared as i can. Now just to install my new viair OBA system on the F-450! Lol
Thoughts of benefits vs cost of moving to a independent suspension system?
LCI actually advised against converting since most of their frame rails are not designed for IS. They even advised against upgrading a unit to their own Torsion Axle system.
Sooo, do you run your tires at max psi? And how about adding shock absorbers?
I recently upgraded to the MorRyde 3000 with the heavy duty shackle straps and wet bolts. I does make a big difference. What do you think about adding Sumo Springs? Would that be overkill?
Does anyone upgrade the springs as well? My trailer is 9 years old and had my first spring break last year. Would like to upgrade to Moryde 3000 system, but I don't seem to hear anything about springs.
So how do you choose which Equilizer for your particular RV. Not brand but are there certain sizes for certain size RVs?
Thank you so much for teaching me how to tow a travel trailer. I have a Jayco Jayflight 28BHS and need to upgrade the suspension. What would you recommend? You probably get this question all the time but this is vehicle specific for cross country travel. Should I go with the CRE 3000 and wet bolts or do you know if there’s something better I should go with? Please let me know and thank you so much for all the content you create! Keep up the great work!
What is you opinion on Sumo Springs for RV and Truck?
Very. Good information thank you.
I know there are a few with independent axial suspension. Why not use a shock that a car would use?
JD will I also have to replace the leaf springs along with the equalizer?
Generally no reason to.
JD what is your opinion of the torsion axle, rubber ride suspension?
LCI advises again converting from axles to Torsion systems. Even if it's their own system being installed aftermarket.
We are looking at a Rockwood Signature Ultra Lite 5th wheel that comes with a torsion axle from the factory.
@@RAM-on8xb yep. The frame is designed for them
Hi how are you. I have been watching your UA-cam videos and I find them very helpful. I am a subscriber as well.My name is Steve. I have looked at the Redwood and spoke to a factory rep who I might be meeting in PA for that big RV show in September. I live in NYC and I’m thinking of going full time in a fifth wheel. I’m just nervous about all the stories and reviews about issues of so many problems with all these RVS. I don’t have dealers close to me and I’m still running my businesses in this area and have to be personally in the area for my clients. Do you have any advice how I should proceed. I’m not made of money but have good credit to get what I need which still has to be paid back. I don’t want to end up in hotels and paying back a rv loan without having my rig. I’m single and have two German Shepherd doggies. Please advise. Thank you.
Thoughts on developing an air ride suspension like on semi trailers?
Are the shackles installed correctly? I have never seen them pointing down like that. They should be the same as the ones on your camper.
It was jacked up and the shackles flipped, and no ever noticed it and corrected them before they put the RV back on the ground, he didn’t even notice this while filming..
Great point out ....! Have a goody
Love all your videos, Leaf Spring VS. Torsion (pro's and con's)? I'll be watching(:
Have you done a video on your opinion of torsion axles in travel trailers?
Can you add an equalizer work on dumpster trailers?
JD I think Alliance RV has the best standard suspension out there right now.
Its pretty on par with many other RVs in it's price range.
@@BTBRVReviews We are looking at an eagle 5th wheel that has a fully upgraded system very similar to what I put on my JayFlight
I have a 2006 Dutchmen Winners Circle 34 foot and it would bounce up and down while driving down the road. I upgraded to the CRE3000 and I thought it would eliminate the bouncing but it did not. Any suggestions on what is causing the bouncing?
Possibly new leaf springs, might be too heavy, possible that Sumosprings may help
@@BTBRVReviews I actually have new leaf springs. It did not help. I installed 3500 lbs per axle and it still did not help. I actually broke the rear hanger once. I appreciate your response! I watch your channel all the time for some valuable tips!
Sorry, JD, but I kinda gotta call you out on this one...
You sounded like you understood, but then you went right back to saying some tandems, "don't have any kind of suspension equalizer". I have been pulling all types of trailers most of my entire driving career (since '99), hold an Associate's in Automotive Technology, and have been an RV tech since Sept. 2019, and I have never seen a multi a le trailer that wasn't homemade without some kind of equalizer. The solid metal piece is, in fact, an equalizer; just not an "upgraded" one. Also, it doesn't seem like you understand the purpose of the equalizer. It is not meant to dampen NVH (noise, vibration, harshness). It is simply there to EQUALIZE the load seen by either axle. Hence the name "equalizer". It ensures no one axle takes more of the load when going over road surface variations like speed bumps, driveway entrances, etc. It can also help minimize the effects of not having the trailer as level as you should when hitched up, ensuring whichever axle is on the "down hill side" of the lean doesn't take more than its fair share of the load, but there's a limit to how much it can help with that.
Furthermore, the equalizer doesn't really do anything to reduce NVH or improve ride quality, because there are already rubber bushings in the leaf spring eyes which do that, not to mention that the equalizer would only be half the equation in that scenario, since you have the other end of each leaf spring still solidly mounted to the frame. These "upgraded" suspension equalizers are nothing more than snake oil. The Joyrider shock kit you had on the Chaparral is a REAL solution to dampening the ride, considering shocks are more correctly called dampeners, as the British and Aussies call them.
Another point is about the issue of why you want more dampening in the first place. You went WAY overkill on the tire load capacity. You kinda mentioned it a bit, but you are mistaken in thinking the sidewall flex of CORRECTLY matched tires to the load doesn't contribute much to a smoother ride. If you had properly rated tires, the sidewall flex does every bit as much as the springs do to improving ride quality and reducing felt shock and NVH. I forgot to mention, I've also been a tire tech before, and my former colleagues and I, along with the RMA (Rubber Manufacturer's Association), would always recommend AGAINST installing LT (Light Truck) rated tires on applications that call for P (Passenger) rated tires. It dramatically impacts ride quality in a negative way. As it is, ST (Specialty Trailer) tires have stiffer sidewalls than even LT tires so they can stand up to the rigors of trailer life (being scrubbed through turns, clipping curbs, and the tendency of people to overload trailers. Going up several load ratings only serves to make things far worse. Not only that, but now your trailer won't be helping as much with braking, seeing as your tires are much stiffer, meaning they don't conform to the road surface as much, thus yielding a reduced contact patch. This is precisely the same reason an unladen semi truck actually doesn't stop as well as a fully loaded one, and why a lot of drivers hate bob-tailing. So many people have this irrational fear of trailer tire blowouts. I say it's irrational, because there is nothing wrong with running E rated tires, if that's what came on your rig from the factory. They're not going to put an underrated tire on and open themselves up to HUGE liability. Most RV tire failures are caused by lack of proper maintenance (specifically, keeping the air pressure where it needs to be), abuse (overloading, usually by not properly distributing load in the RV, thus placing more load on certain tires, less on others), and over speeding (running faster than the speed rating of the tire), as most ST tires have speed ratings far lower than one might think (and speed ratings are definitely an absolute thing! If you go over by even a little bit, you have just damaged that tire.)
Let me close a a better note, though, and say you have done quite a fantastic job of educating yourself on towing safety, and then passing on that knowledge to many others. The amount of effort you put into researching everything for towing safety really shows. Your RV reviews are well put together, and very helpful in what you show. Hopefully, I have been able to help you to reach that same level on the issue of RV tires and suspension. Have a good one, and stay safe out there! Just remember, properly rated tires for the load and speed, keep on top of those air pressures, and be mindful of how you load your RV up.
My friend, obviously an equalizer's primary purpose is to "equalize" the load across the axles. You are not correct by saying there are rubber bushing in the eyelets of their leaf spring ends. In most cases there may be a cheap nylon bushing and in some cases it's a brass bushing. The term "suspension equalizer" is used to describe an equalizer with some type of built in or engineered "suspension component" that's part of the design. I use the term "standard equalizer" to describe a basic steel equalizer. I know you were just nit picking, but to believe that I don't know the function of a equalizer isn't not true at all since I've mentioned the purpase of them for years in multiple videos.
What can be done to the Heartland wide trax suspension?
What about independent suspension? What are the differences?
NICE JOB .
Do you know if they make one for a wide track TT
What can be done for a single axle trailer?
According to Keystone/Crossroads, if I upgrade the Equalizer and/or Shakels and add wet bolts on my New Zinger 280RB I will Violate the Warranty on my Trailer.
👏👏👏👏
Why does the tire tread look so worn?
Discrepancies in the lighting and viewing angle.
Not much what's going on with you?
This is a waste of money