Big Suspension Upgrades - Installing LCI Road Armor EQ, Wet Bolts, Bushings & Shackles
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- Link to all my LCI product installation and review videos - www.loveyourrv...
In this video, I replace multiple worn OEM suspension parts on our Keystone Cougar fifth-wheel trailer. They get swapped out with heavier-duty replacements from Lippert Components (LCI).
First, the OEM Trail Air EquaFlex equalizer gets upgraded to the beefier LCI Road Armor EQ. Next, the regular bolts are replaced with greaseable bolts along with bronze bushings. A big step up from the existing plastic bushing. Finally, the thin steel shackle links are swapped out for much thicker aluminum ones.
Overall the upgrades should provide a smoother safer towing experience and last much longer. Once I put a decent amount of test miles on this suspension upgrade, I'll come back with a review video.
Disclaimer: Love Your RV! received the LCI product samples free of charge for the video.
Parts & Tools:
Road Armor Equalizer - www.loveyourrv...
Short Link Wet Bolt Kit - store.lci1.com...
Long Shackle Wet Bolt Kit - store.lci1.com...
Bronze Bushings - amzn.to/37F3wsz
20 Ton Bottle Jack - amzn.to/3lJUBuX
6 Ton Jack Stands - amzn.to/2Ih0qSU
Plastic Dead Blow Hammer - amzn.to/2IeByLB
2 1/2 lb Steel Hammer - amzn.to/39Ipgq1
Brass Punch - amzn.to/3ganC1A
Dewalt Torque Wrench - amzn.to/3qy218i
Mechanics Socket Set - amzn.to/3gdexoI
Cordless Impact Wrench - amzn.to/33IBU4u
Grease Gun - amzn.to/3mIuJ3H
PDF Manuals Mentioned:
Road Armor Installation PDF - lci-support-do...
Lippert Suspension Torque Quick Reference PDF - lci-support-do...
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40ft lbs should be good. Thats what the cre300 system and moryde wet bolts call for
So how do you know if your trailer needs new shackles/equalizers? Squeaking noise going down the road? Tire wear? My 2016 KZ has original parts. About 30,000 miles on trailer. And those parts are stunningly costly!
Excellent walk-through, thanks so much for making this video.
For anyone planning on doing this a couple of hints; first make sure the bolts take grease before installing. Some of the bolts may not be drilled all the way through or as Ray found out, the zerks were defective. Also the bolts should be installed with the grease hole at the 3 or 9 o'clock position to keep the weight of the RV from pressing down at the location of the grease hole in the bolt(6 & 12 o'clock position is what you want to avoid). Also as Ray showed the bolts need to be pressed in and not twisted into the bushings. The serrations just below the head of the bolts is what keeps the bolt from spinning in the shackles. Also the nuts supplied are single use nuts. The flat part of the nut slightly deforms when torqued correctly and acts like a lock washer. These nuts cannot be reused. So if for any reason, you need to remove a nut, toss it and replace with a new one. Lastly it is recommended to press the new bushings into the spring ends. Pounding them in can cause the end of the bushing to mushroom making it impossible to fully seat the bushing in the end of the spring.
Thanks for the info and advice Carl, Cheers, Ray
How would you press them in? Use a clamp?
@@tommcl386 I have used a large "C" clamp to press bushings in. Another, possibly better, option is to check with your local auto parts store to see if they have a press that they loan/rent out.
I wish I could have read this before I installed mine a year ago. I have three that I can't get grease into now. Either the hole is defective or they are not at 3 & 9. So I get to jack them all up & check it out.
@@herb7877 Sorry about that. Lippert should stress this in their instruction. Good luck 👍
You never cease to amaze me. LOL
Great job Ray.
When are you going to install disc brakes😉
Great job, a lot faster than my rebuild went. I changed my 5th wheel shackles recently and I'm 74. If you have the tools and take the time it's not a hard or difficult project. Videos like this really help the DIYer's who want to save a little or just want the challenge of doing it.
Great upgrade for your 5er Ray! It was good to see you put the grease zirks on the inside so you can grease it without pulling the wheels. So many people put them on the outside.
Greetings from AZ. Thought you would've crossed the border by heli flight and met your RV on the US side.;)
Don't need to be traveling that bad. :) Just gonna chill and stay safe this winter. Cheers, Ray
I just did a similar upgrade (with a mechanic friend's help) on my Keystone Passport Trailer. When installing the new bronze bushings, my buddy used a length of allthread with a washer on each side, followed by a nut. And then tightened up one of the nuts to press the bushing smoothly into place. Might take a bit longer than pounding it into place, but less likely to damage the bushing. We installed a new Lippert Equa-Flex equalizer, because that was the only equalizer available in the size we needed (spread axles.) The next weekend I took the trailer on a 75 mile trip, and it seemed to ride noticeably better than OEM equipment. My original plastic bushings were just starting to show some wear after 5,000 miles. All set for the next adventure now.
Neat tip, thanks!
awesome job this is good I am taking torque flex axles out putting that system in. maybe I will get more than 2 years out of the tires lol 🇨🇦🛠️🇨🇦
Forgive my ignorance, but shouldn’t the grease fittings be on the outside so they can be accessed easily?
By having them on the inside I can actually more easily get to them, if on the outside the tires get in the way.
Thank you for explaining I also thought they had to be on the tired side but now that you said it I think you’re right lesson learned and I didn’t get greasy thanks
@@TheDefenderSisu mine came from the factory on the outside and there a couple that the angle is off for a metal tube. I got a fexiable tube and it can be done with the tire on. But, inside in probably better.
Another reason is it makes it easier to see with a glance whether a nut is coming loose.
Some can be, others will be blocked by the tires.
You should’ve put grease zerk facing outside.
From what I gather it's a personal preference. I thought it will be easier to crawl under rather than pull the tires to lube but another reason is I can at a glance see if a nut is coming loose. Cheers, Ray
How did these Road Amour shackles work out? What did you torque to? I have to do this sometime this spring and I am comparing to CRE3000. Thanks for sharing Like 1.5K+
Have had it installed for a couple of years now, around 10,000 miles, and have no complaints. Trailer feels really smooth when going over bumps. I discussed the torque specs here. I went with 40 lbs. ua-cam.com/video/wc4P8u739-8/v-deo.html
Another great one Ray, keep them coming.
Thanks, will do!
Boy, you are FAST. You'd make a fortune as a "flat rate" mechanic! (just kidding)
Thank you!! Great instructions!!
So much for the weather man. Of course that shouldn’t be a surprise. I elected to upgrade my suspension with the Roadmaster slipper springs. Both are big improvements. I know you will be happy. I still haven’t seen you fail at any RV modification. I wish I could say that.
Ray, You make more work for me! Now I have to check out my suspension on my 2007 trailer. I never thought of checking the suspension. Thank you for your videos, they help a lot. Maintenance is so important. The Road Runner
You re hired! Man you work fast. I'm curious how they work out. Glad you decided to do a follow-up video. Be well my friend!
Nice video, Ray. Thank you. That's a project I've been considering so nice to see the process.
Is there a tip for getting grease in easier to bolt? I lube my bolts when I rotate the tires or lube the axle. I have bolts that are very hard or impossible to get grease into. Should I take the wheel off and remove the support for the axle, thereby taking pressure off the axle?
Could do but maybe easier way. You could just drive one tire up on a ramp or boards and this would rotate all the pivot points, then try greasing them in different positions.
Just a hint to make installation a little easier. Install the pivot end first then the shackle end. It is easier to line up the bolt end when not fighting the shackles. Then the shackles give a little movement so there is a little more flexibility at that end.
Thanks for the tip :)
You work fast Ray. Lol thanks
Great set up. Have a similar one. I removed the zirc fittings and installed 90 degree angle ones to make greasing easier
Hi Ray. Great video.
I just received my Road Armor kit with wet bolts. The shackles I rec'd are the long ones like yours. I may need the shorter ones.
Can you please tell me what your axle spacing is?
33" or 35"? Thank, you.
Thanks :) 35"
Thanks for your reply.
My axles are 33" apart, so I need the shorter 2.25 inch shackles. I deal with etrailer.com. They have excellent customer service.
I think I have the shorter ones that Lippert sent just incase but they are in my storage room so would take a few more weeks to get. Or else I would send them to you. Cheers, Ray
Another great video
The quality of the oem parts is poor. How many accidents because of this?
Awesome video. Best explanation I’ve seen. I’m installing the equa flex in my trailer soon.
I'll have to check my suspension components on my GD Momentum 320G after this. It blows my mind how crappy the stock suspension components are these RVs... although it shouldn't surprise me. Imagine if vehicles and airplane suspensions were built like this...SMGDH!
nice video! you picked the perfect time (weather wise) to do that. can’t imagine doing that in the summer.
Yeah, wasn't too bad, nice and cool but not freezing. :)
Planning on the same upgrade on our redwood over the winter but undecided on the lippert system or the morryde 4000. Currently have the same system as the one you removed that looks equally beat up. Look forward to your review. Thanks for putting this together
Thanks for the demo. Just bought a new rv trailer and I’m guessing I need to do this in the coming year or two to prevent future roadside work.
Nice video. Fun finding sweet spot with no load to get bolts out 😁. Our "stock" Road Armor is blue without the wet bolts. Seems to ride well.
Great video. Will have to size up for the spring. Plus make sure it is in the budget as a must upgrade/maintenance.
Nice upgrade. I like how they come with the heavier shackles and wet bolts. They should be quieter also. Thanks for sharing as always.
Great safety upgrade, I’ll have to mine sometime soon as well. Thanks Ray
Thank you for sharing.....Great video...
Another excellent DIY project, thanks Ray!!
What is the different between the old and the new one? It look like the new one is little bit strong material. it does not get better absorb then the old one. Why don't you try "the Center Point Air-Ride Suspension System" . it seems much better.
Here is my follow up road test video ua-cam.com/video/eAx9ZtFDbB4/v-deo.html I didn't notice much difference in towing versus the old one, but keep in mind I never have any issues before. My trailers has always towed smoothly. But the components now I feel are much sturdier and should last longer. I think the Center Point Air-Ride System is too expensive. I don't have any ride issues with the current arrangement. Maybe a heavier trailer could benefit form it. Cheers, Ray
Good job Ray I believe it’s called a capture nut😀
Hey Ray. I'm doing the install but I'm having trouble sinking those teeth into the hangers. I hit it pretty hard with a sledgehammer but it won't budge. I just put the nut on a torque it to 40-45ftlb. Is that alright?
Yeah, I had to hit them quite few times. Sounds like you must have got them to bite in enough to do the job. I'd just recheck it a few times after some short tows. Cheers, Ray
You make it look so easy to take apart and put back together!!! LOL
Thanks Ray! - Can't wait for the on-road review. Cheers!
I was wondering why you put the grease fittings towards the under trailer instead of outside where you could get to them. ?
Two reasons. 1) I don't have to pull off the tires to access all the grease fittings and 2) With a quick look, I can easily see if the nuts are coming loose when I'm checking tire pressure and lug nut torque. Cheer's Ray
)
I've found your how-to videos very helpful. I've learned about and tackled new landing gear, new brakes and a solar system from watching you easy to follow tutorials. Next project, a suspension upgrade on our 2003 Keystone Laredo. Thanks, and keep em coming. Brad
Great to hear! I've had a chance the last while to get out traveling again and give the new suspension parts a good testing and they have performed well. Here was an update video I did ua-cam.com/video/eAx9ZtFDbB4/v-deo.html Cheers, Ray
Glad you posted this, been thinking of upgrading. Thanks.
If you haven't seen it yet here is a link to my road test video, worked pretty good. ua-cam.com/video/eAx9ZtFDbB4/v-deo.html
Thanks, good video. One iten to note, you should never have to "pound" a fastener into place! If all components are clean and lubricated the fastening torque should draw the splines into the receiving member.
The steel hangers seem to be made of very hard metal.Since the wet bolts are hollow and the nuts only call for 50 ft-lbs. of torque I would fear over-torqueing them to be able to draw the bolt all the way in. It could damage the threads or stretch the hollow bolt. I also understand the lock nuts are single-use. So torqueing higher to draw bolt splines in and then backing off and setting to the 50 lbs. spec may not be a good thing to do. Decided to pound from the head end instead. Cheers, Ray
btw, Found this in a Wet Bolt Installation Manual www.morryde.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Wet_Bolt_install_v2.pdf
"The bronze bushings and wet bolts (shoulder bolts with grease zerk) may not install easily. The
bronze bushings may require a C-clamp for installation. Use a hammer to pound the wet bolts into the frame hangers.
Use a pipe or small diameter socket to fit over the grease zerk and pound the bolt in place or remove the zerk, pound
the bolt in place, and reinstall the zerk. Make sure the grease exit hole faces to the side for easy grease flow."
"NOTE: Wet bolts installed on the frame hangers should be pounded in using a socket head to
protect the zerk. Then the nut can be torqued on. The nut will not be able to pull the bolt head
flush with the frame hangers because of the splines on the bolt shaft."
Ray, I'm wondering if you have any comparison data between the Road Armor and the MorRyde suspension sets? They look fairly similar in setup. I respect your opinions, and thought you might have researched both before making your decision.
This is the first upgrade I've done to the OEM stuff and with winter plus Covid I haven't had a chance to even test it much yet. The Trail Air was the OEM setup and it has served us well for 9 years now so thought I'd stick with that brand. The Trail Air Road Amor is a beefed up version of the OEM installed Trail Air Equa-Flex
But here is a video I found that has compared the two systems - ua-cam.com/video/25lJsF6PiGg/v-deo.html
@@LoveYourRV thanks for the info!
Suggestion for your next project - undercoat your truck and RV with Fluid Film to protect it from road salt and rust. You can buy a kit on Amazon.
Yes, have done that. :) - www.loveyourrv.com/update-on-my-fluid-film-boeshield-t-9-reviews/
I also use Fluid Film - cars, truck and travel trailer. The only negative I have ever noticed, is Fluid Film seems to react with the black plastic that covers the underside of insulated trailers. Of course, you can be careful and avoid over spraying onto the plastic. So far, I haven't experienced any reaction with other plastics or rubber. I sure like not having any rust!
HI, CAN I USE THAT PARTS FOR MY 8000 POUNDS AXLE CAR HAULER? tHANKS FOR YOUR AMAZING VIDEOS
It says they are rated for Axle weight capacity of 3,500 to 8,000 lbs. So looks like just barely.
Hey Ray. How have these held up so far? Have you taken them apart to see how the bronze bushings held up?
So far things have been great. I have about 4-5 thousand miles on the new parts. Currently 4 months into a 6 month trip. Haven't taken it apart but no signs the bushings are bad. No squeaking. Here was a early road test video ua-cam.com/video/eAx9ZtFDbB4/v-deo.html and an update clip ua-cam.com/video/PSyU9HOQenQ/v-deo.html Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV thanks for the links bud.
Why place the grease fittings on the inside? Seems like you would want those easily accessible?
Its actually easier to get at them when on the inside. With the tires on its a pain to get the grease gun between. But when I crawl under they are all easy to get too and lots of room. Also with the nuts facing out with a glance I can make sure they aren't coming loose or missing. Cheers, Ray
5:10 we can hear the ducks or geese 🥰. Good job done! Thank you, always nice to watch you work Ray. My suspension are with Gabriel shocks, are there components to be changed like yours? So much to learn ,, Rv life ☀️🌈
Not too sure on the Airstreams, I've never had a look under one. But I'd assume they are built with much better parts from the get go. :)
@@LoveYourRV Ok 😅. Dexter Axle with Gabriel Shocks. Dexter Nev-r Adjust, Nev-R lube Brakes assembly. My maintenance up to now has been to cover all with fluid film and torque one shock nut that was only a couple tread in. Cantine must have arrived at that moment when it was installed! Of course, re-did brakes with your precious video tutorial help! I would like to install get a 3" lift kit. Cheers :)
Just curious - what are your impressions on this upgrade after some months and kilometres ? Did you notice a difference. Looking at doing the same but wondering if the $$$ are worth it. Thank you and I always appreciate your channel.
Don't notice to much when towing, seems smooth but my old system was too. I think we are seeing less stuff jostled about inside the trailer after trips though. Just did a rough, curvy road the other day and inside stuff was still mostly in place. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV Much of this did seem superfluous as the equalizer seemed fine, esp if the rubber wasn't hardened. And overkill w/the shackles.... i get how bronze bushings with zerk shafts are better... but seems like something the military might need. The plastic bushings went all that time and are just wearing out now. Just replace them, and let Them be the lubricant and don't waste future labor w/more greasing. As for the heavy shackles... yes, very enticing! But, i don't hear about regular shackles breaking, and the originals may even be designed to be the weak link in the system... What's better, a broken shackle or bearing or axle (or frame or wheel)?
I understand this was a lot of work, but it seems as if one could have simply swapped out new plastic bushings (and maybe very lightly steel wooled the shackle studs and lightly oiled) And called it good. I'm not trying to call out this person, this Is an EXCELLENT tutorial 👌. But if 10k people, bored, watch these videos and decide this is a must-upgrade on their otherwise New trailers,... well that's many thousands of installed nuts bolts shackles and bushings going to the trash heap (after a decade in your heated garage). And all i see is waste there. I may do this to my dump trailer, but instead of buying this kit and throwing my new parts away, just replace the plastic bushings with bronze and drill out the sides of the ends and install Zerks on them, so i can shoot in some grease exactly the same, only w/the original hardware in place including the original shackles if mine are perfect, and therefore retaining the stronger solid bolts and the weaker shackles, should i hit something awful and require a 'weak link' to break. (But i might buy a few new shackles and bolts to keep on board in such an event..) Actually I have an even better idea, but rather keep this one to myself ; ). Thank You for the video ☮️ ~
@@georgehofgren6123 probably could got away with just posting the last two sentences and called it a day.😏
Wouldn't it be better to put the bolt heads pointing out so you can get to the grease zerks easier? Or would they have been covered by the tires? Or maybe you did it that way so they wouldn't get overed in road dirt?
From what I gather its a personal preference. I thought it will be easy to crawl under rather than pull the tires but another reason is I can at a glance see if a nut is coming loose. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV that makes sense.
If I could give you a tip I learned if you get some vacuum caps or brake line bleeder caps and put them on the zerks it helps keep them clean. Great video by the way. 👍 I always learn something when watching your videos.
My 5th wheel came with this system and it is a 2020 and I have 5 wet bolts that will not take grease. I have checked the grease zerks all worked so it must be the bolts. So thanks for this I will be going back and checking how they installed it at the factory.
Nice job.👍
Awesome job Ray...Cheers from Invermere.
Thanks 👍
Good job.
Dang, Lot of work on that project! Nice Job!
Yeah, felt a little sore afterward but was good to learn how to do it, saves some cash. :)
Thank you for sharing! We will think about you, when doing a similar work ourselves next time. And what a great workplace you had created for the job! Brilliant and safe! (And there are no wrong seasons anyway.)👌
By the way, where are your hydraulic shock absorbers? I wouldn't drive without them. Lippert components offers its 'LC281281' for just 147 US Dollars per set.
And there is an RM-2470 for Tandem axles.
Just the Trail Air EQ did a pretty good job of smoothing out the ride. Ours is a pretty light fifth wheel GVWR 10,141 lbs Towing it with my Ram 3500 I hardly know the trailer is back there. :) So, haven't found the need to add shocks. Cheers, Ray
Good job, and they wont change the ride height, correct?
I don't think it will as all the dimensions are the same as the OEM stuff I replaced.
How to know what length shackles to get ? And will the wrong length raise or lower the trailer?
Check out this manual lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws.com/manuals/axles-and-suspension/ccd-0001409.pdf In it it says:
"Note: The short shackle links (2.25" hole space dimension) will be used for 29.5" hanger spacing and the
long shackle links (3.125" hole space dimension) will be used for 30.5" hanger spacing. Generally,
the 33.5" wheel center spacing uses the short shackle links and the 35.5" wheel spacing uses the
long shackle links."
Also here is a handy manual for bolt torques specs - lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws.com/quickreferences/ccd_0001812.pdf
I'm not sure what using the wrong length would do. My guess is you just wouldn't be able to make them fit. Cheers, Ray
You think a little Blue Loctite would help the shackle bolts ?
Can't see it hurting any, but the nuts are a locking type nut good for one use. So far mine haven't backed off after thousands of miles traveled..
I would've put the grease zerks facing out
Personal preference I guess. :) I can lube them with tires on and I can also easily see if a nut is coming loose with a quick look. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV with my 90° adapter on my grease gun and an inspection mirror, i do it all standing up
Convenience = frequency
Why doesn't LCI put them on at the factory?
LCI doesn't build trailers, they supply parts that trailer manufacturers may choose to buy. For example, Keystone is the company that built my trailer in 2010 and at that time chose to install the Trail-Air Equalizer that I replaced. Cheers, Ray
Hello. I'm getting ready to do this upgrade. Did you have to lift the trailer from both sides to do this? From the video it looks like only two jack stands were used. Thanks.
I just did it one side at a time, only needed to lift a couple inches to get the stands under the I-beam. I then lowered the trailer stabilizer and landing jacks and stacked the wheels under as extra safety while I worked on things in case in the unlikely event the jack stands failed.
@@LoveYourRV Thanks.
great vid. Thanks for the info.
You're welcome I've put a a couple update videos on it. ua-cam.com/video/eAx9ZtFDbB4/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/PSyU9HOQenQ/v-deo.html So far very pleased with the upgrades, Cheers, Ray
Do you need to get an axle alignment after the installation?
Shouldn't need too as I didn't change any dimensions. It acts just like the OEM arrangement, just better.
I highly doubt any RV trailer has ever had the wheels aligned. I watched a few factory videos, they flip the chassis upside down and drop the axles in place after they are done with the tanks and wiring, then flip it back over and start building. If the chassis is straight and the brackets welded to the frame are straight and in line parallel, then no alignment needed, but be careful with pounding on the brackets when setting the bolts as they bend easily, and if the front is bent in while the rear is bent out, then it could affect tire wear. As long as one side, inner or outer is straight inline with the frame vertically, no need to worry about alignment.
Hey Ray. Just so you know. I had to replace both of mine. (one was damaged by a local tire company by lifting the fifth wheel on the equalizer). The old ones had both top bushings completely worn away after only 8K miles. Just FYI. Not a cheap fix in another 8K. I don't spare the grease either so it wasn't that.
Wow, that seems odd, my old Trail Air equalizers lasted about twice to three times that mileage and they only have cheap nylon bushings. I figure I have about 80,000 miles on the Cougar and have only had to do the suspension twice. I'd figure greased bronze bushings and a heavier EQ should last much longer.
I installed the Morryde kits, and the torque specs are 50 ftlb for the wet bolts. What I'm curious about is the assembly of the road armor, specifically the center bolt that secures the link arm. Is the arm slotted or just a hole?
Do you mean the 3 bolts that are part of the Road Armor EQ itself? I didn't take it apart to check.
How far apart are your axels?
Mine measure 35" center to center
I didn't see where you got the bronze replacement bushings. Did they come in one of the kits and I overlooked it?
No, that was the weird thing. The equalizers have bronze bushings preinserted but the the wet bolt shackle kit didn't include any. I guess they think you are going to reuse the existing bushings or something. Kind of dumb. When they were sending me the parts I told the rep I needed new bronze bushings too and somehow they found and included enough for me.
I needed 4 for each side. Can get them at places like Amazon - amzn.to/3bnAkcd or Etrailer www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Leaf-Spring-Suspension/Dexter-Axle/K71-291-00.html
Will this lift the camper? I’m as low as I can go on my hitch and pin box. Still riding just a little nose high. Thank you
No, this just replaced the original hardware with better stuff but doesn't change the height since I used stuff with the exact same dimensions. Cheers, Ray
Was desired wheelbase a concern when ordering the new components ? In watching other videos on equalizer changes, I saw no mention. Thanks for your videos.
I just ordered the exact part dimensions of my OEM parts so it was a perfect fit. There are a few different common sizes used by suspension makers. I have links in the video description to parts and information. This manual should help - lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws.com/manuals/axles-and-suspension/ccd-0003618.pdf and a lot of the parts are available on Etrailer as well - www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Leaf_Spring_Suspension-pm-Lippert_Components.aspx They have good Q&A sections and videos. Cheers, Ray
What grease did you used?
If I remember right I used some Lucas X-tra Heavy Duty Grease left over from when I repacked my bearings lucasoil.com/products/grease/lucas-x-tra-heavy-duty-grease
Why put the grease fittings in the back?
It's much easier to crawl under and use the grease gun from the back for routine maintenance since the tires aren't in the way.
@@LoveYourRV I see now that the tires are in the way. Thank you
Did this give your camper any lift in the rear or lower it? I’m needing to get a little more lift out of mine to ride level. Thank you
No, nothing changed since all the dimensions of the replacement parts like space between bolt holes were the exact same as the old ones, just thicker and better quality.
Has anyone installed this on a 5000lb travel trailer dual axle? What's the end result? Are they mostly beneficial to larger 5th wheel type rigs? Do we notice the rig bouncing alot less or what? What exactly are the significant benefits both detectable and undetectable? Will the rig sit any lower? How do we determine which length connectors we need?
You'd have to search UA-cam and see, my axles are rated at 4400 lbs. and I didn't notice a big difference in handling and bounce versus my OEM parts but I do have much better peace of mind looking at how heavy duty these parts are vs the OEM. I imagine I will get many more miles from them before they wear out.
@@LoveYourRV yep, looked like your stock ones needed replacement. Nice to have solid, heavy duty greasable style installed now. 🌞
That's a pretty helpful video. I'm thinking it's time to do mine. Couple of questions: (1) Did you use the short or long shackles? (2) what procedure did you use to jack up one side of the trailer? I'm worried about putting uneven pressure on the front landing gear.
My OEM setup required me to use the long shackles as a replacement to match up the springs. If worried, just hook up the truck instead. That's what most people would do and recommended procedure. Normally that's what I would do. But, since I was winter skirted and in the RV park, not a whole lot of room for the truck. I elected to do it with the front jacks down. What I did was just lift an inch, or so with my 20-ton bottle jack, only enough to get the jack stands under the I-beam, then let it back down. From there, I could use the pair of hydraulic jacks under the axles to take the tires off and manipulate the axles for replacing the suspension parts. My front landing legs are rated at 6000 lbs, 3000 lbs each, and my normal hitch pin weight is only 1700 lbs, so I figured I was OK to add a little when doing the job. But to you, I am not recommending it as I don't want to be on the hook for blame if you bust a leg. ;)
@@LoveYourRV thanks for that valuable info. I have almost the same rig as you except the rear kitchen model (278rks). Where did you find out what length of shackle to use?
@@locopixel463 I have links in the video description to parts and information. This manual should help - lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws.com/manuals/axles-and-suspension/ccd-0003618.pdf You can see the two sizes are 3.13" and 2.25" measured center hole to center hole.
store.lci1.com/shackle-link-313in-133207.html
store.lci1.com/shackle-link-225in-122487.html
Kits:
Long Link - store.lci1.com/tandem-axle-equa-flex-ap-kit-wet-bolts-long-links-146298.html
Short Links - store.lci1.com/tandem-axle-ap-kit-no-eq-wet-bolts-162324.html
A lot of the parts are available on Etrailer as well - www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Leaf_Spring_Suspension-pm-Lippert_Components.aspx They have good Q&A sections and videos.
Love your videos,, always learn a lot from them.
Also gives me incentive to do needed projects.
Was wondering if LCI makes this product for triple axle trailers???
Thanks! Looks like they do, see this manual - lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws.com/manuals/axles-and-suspension/ccd-0001410.pdf
Ok, now you need plastic zerk caps to protect them from dirt, mud, dust, etc. You can find these on Amazon.
(25 Pack) Brake Bleeder Screw Caps Grease Zerk Fitting Cap Rubber Dust Cover
Thanks for the tip!