I assume you replaced the bolts and bushings at the front and rear of the springs...you did not show that in the video. Also, you should always index the wet bolt grease ports to either the front or rear, never top or bottom.
In my 40+ years of Rv-n this is one of the best upgrades I did. Basically the same but the Mor-ryde 3000 system. Taking the older plastic bushings out and seeing the wear made me take a deep breath praising I didn't wait any longer. Going over bumps & RR tracks makes a huge difference in towing ride & piece of mind.
@@benmoran6973 I'm guessing about 12-14k miles. We took 2-4k + mile trips and several ~1k and a fair number in the 250-300 mi area. The 'standard factory" plastic was about 95% worn out and ready to give. The Mor-ryde equalizer part really made a day & night difference going over bumps & RR tracks & the like. I won't own a tt w/o it again.
Would you recommend some additional stiffening on the hangers? I've got a 24 footer and it appears I have the same size steel stock for my hangers, but am concerned with hitting something that imparts a sideways force on the hangers bending them or breaking the weld. While I feel that Lippert made the frame with great welds all around (ahem) a good smack on the side of a wheel might shoot a big bending moment on the hanger.
The Nev-r-wear bushings that lippert sells will actually outlast the wetbolt bronze bushings easily. Greasing these wetbolts does squat unless you take all the weight off before you grease. Also just use blocks and bottle jacks. Eliminates the need for jackstands as bottle jack does both duties.
I personally prefer to install the shackle bolts like you did, nuts facing out. It is easier during my pre-trip inspections to check that none of the nuts are working loose.
I'm not even going to say what I thought shackle shackle straps and werbolts were about...but now I am informed. Thanks for great videos on how things work.
We’ve had our surveyor 203rkle for 2 years and I hadn’t given much thought to upgrading the suspension equalizer until I saw this video. Just picked the trailer up from the shop and even unloaded it rows completely differently! Looking forward to our next trip with the trailer fully loaded with gear! Love your videos and your honest reviews and recommendations!
A short piece of 1/2 copper pipe is perfect for pushing out the old bushings. I ended up having to loosen up the axel U bolts to align the Dexter components to the springs and hangers. SPECIAL NOTE: Only use a 11/16 six point socket to tighten/draw the bolts into place.
CAUTION. DO NOT FORGET THE OTHER FOWARD AND AFT BOLTS. Just did mine but also did the static pivots on the other end of the leaf springs too. These bushings were pulverized (metal on metal) while the ones in my cre3000 were bad but still there. The “static” bolts are the worst ones and should also be upgraded, not just the equalizer. 2016 Jayco jay flight 28BHBE
Jd I watched your video and I got concerned that when you raised the nose up with the tongue jack and using the jack stands in the way you did as a wedge affect put a lot of stresses on the frame especially up front where the tongue attaches to the main part of the frame, I probably would have put together some blocks and used your floor jack on on the frame to lift the trailer and then used the jack stands for support then moved the jacks to the axle to lift the axles up for support and keep in alignment for easy set up thanks for all the videos you do
I don’t understand how these are not standard. I know it’s for cost savings, but I would think it could save manufacturers money in preventative maintenance benefits.
Nice job, but you really should change out the pivot bolts and bushings on the outer ends of the springs. Very nice install and looks to be a great product!
I finally got around to installing the upgrade kit and discovered that the greasable bolts are not included with the kit. So I ordered them and will also replace the fixed end bolts as well with greasable bolts.
Great video, thanks. I’m a little new to the travel trailer world and I’ve been scratching my head trying to envision how I was going to raise my trailer to do this job. This is how I envisioned it but you added some nice details, like the long 2x4 and the rubber pucks on the floor jacks. One thing though, you didn’t install brass bushings on the other end of the spring. Or did I miss that. Anyways, again I have benefited from your content. Thank you sir. 2021 Lance 1995. 2024 F-350 KR SRW 6.7 HO.
I've watched you do several of these and also your demonstration of several different options, what I would appreciate is a "why to choose one over the other" I have Dexter e-z flex on one trailer and found it to be a great upgrade. That said it is often much maligned piece yet it worked well for me. How does the Lippert unit outperform the Dexter item. No axe to grind here, just looking for the best item for my Box Trailer. I carry somewhat fragile cargo and the smoother the ride the better. Thanks for any objective comments. You do good work and the video's are great.
You'll hear about torque specs but never see anyone actually do it. Reason being, is these are shoulder bolts and they stop and seat against a hard edge. They stop tightening when you hit that edge.
I’ve been considering LCI Roadarmor equalizer, but like the Morryde shackle kit better. I was concerned that they might not be a universal design or I might have compatibility issues. Thanks for posting this video, so I know my idea will work.
Going to agree with the others that mention a tq wrench. Ya can get it right by chance but chancing suspension isn't something im comfortable with. Great upgrade. Matter of fact this should come stock. Hint hint manufactures.
I do this every year with my EquaFlex equalizer to remove and inspect the wet bolts. You seem to be making this harder than it is. Jack stands, hydraulic jack and 2x12x10 boards is all you need. Do one tire at a time. Loosen the lugs, jack up the axle near the tire until one wet bolt hanger is loose. Remove and replace. Move to the next hanger. Done
Well I'm here to eat a little bit of crow, during all your talks about these upgraded equalizers I always doubted them as the front spring mount and the rear spring mount are connected directly to the frame with no "cushion" on them. Well, I bit the bullet and ordered this same exact setup for my 2017 Jayco 33RBTS since I was replacing all 4 springs due to a leaning issue. I've only towed it about 8 miles, but I only needed a 1/4 mile to see the MASSIVE improvement these provide. No more jarring when hitting rough spots in the road. Can't wait to get on the highway this weekend and see how much of an improvement these will have over expansion joints over bridges where I cringe on the bad ones.
I have the 19RBLE Surveyor which is a single axle trailer. There’s only one shackle at one end of the leaf spring. Do you recommend replacing the one shackle on each side. I would also like to install Sumo springs on the axle. What do you think?
Really enjoyed your videos all of them. I am wondering what you think about the Roadmaster COMFORT RIDE SLIPPER SPRING SYSTEMS compared to this system seen in this video, I have a Grand Design travel trailer that’s about 30 feet long?
Can you recommend a suspension upgrade for Forest River wide stance axel travel trailers? I've not seen any in my limited searches. Thank you for ALL the videos you provide. Truly appreciated.
Quite honestly, when I see videos of trailers with this type of suspension and drum brakes, it amazes me how the manufacturers are able to get away with garbage components.
JD, what are your thoughts about the thickness of the frame hangers vs the new heavy duty shackles? Seems like this might move the weak point of the system is to the brackets welded to the frame. Seems like I see more failures of that bracket, either bent or cracks at the welds, vs the other suspension components.
Do you ever rotate your trailer tires? You mentioned your TPMS system and not wanting to recalibrate. I typically rotate my boat trailer tires once a year. Much easier to do it when the boat is in the water.
JD. Need your help. I bought this exact set up. I tried following the steps you outline in the installation. I was only able to get one bolt off and stripped another. Question is. After supporting the frame with the jacks. I then jacked up the axels and removed the tires. I could never seem to get the current factory Dexter loose. Do I need to lower the axels off the jack once I get the tires off?? Thanks
We are looking at a Bigfoot 25RT fiberglass travel trailer. I have a 2020 F450 , not having any travel trailer experience so you think I would need stabilizer bars ? Also a equalizer type hitch ? Any input is welcome. Love your axle upgrade .
What was the diameter of the stainless steel rod you used to pysh the nylon bushing out? Do you have an Amazon link to share? Thanks! I did see someone in the comments used a 1/2" piece of copper pipe. Same diameter?
Im not sure how long you have had these installed but was wondering if you still liked the equalizers (EquaFlex) or would you choose Road Armor or MORyde if you had to do it over again?
I'm curious. What is the brand of that black adjustable aluminum step you have at bottom of your 5th wheel steps at the start of the video? It looks large and sturdy.
Conclusion: JD dreams of working on a pit crew and this is his audition reel. "Honey.... Y'know how I did a video on an excavator and we needed to get one for the channel....?"
I’ve read a few of the comments regarding the use of a torque wrench. I understand the shoulder nuts but what about the wheel lug nuts. They should absolutely be torqued to spec. I find it a bit irresponsible that you not only didn’t demonstrate it but didn’t mention it.
So I have a 6x12 enclose trailer with dual axle and I Carry house plants and cactus for my business. Every time I do a market, all my plants fly all over the place and I have to pot them up again. Would this work to not make them jump to much during my travel? Or what would you recommend ? I don’t mind spending more for something that will make the bouncing better.
Hello, I would say you'd want shocks and a suspension setup with more travel to absorb the shock. I would look at the new Touring suspension from Lippert OR possibly the AllTrek4000 from Morryde with shocks.
You turned all the zerk fittings towards the inboard side , with the exception of the top one . Wouldn’t you have run into the same problem with that one that you would have run into with the lower ones (ie. the tire) ?
@@BTBRVReviews I saw that later. But while at it it's a quick job and does allow lubrication. I replaced the bushings on my last camper and one of those was worn out.
They say 40lbs but the nut seats directly against the end of the bolt where it stops. So you aren't actually "tightening" to a specification if that makes sense.
@@BTBRVReviews If you read the instructions from Morryde you are suppose to hammer in the wet bolt then secure the nut to torque value. Just impacting them in can actually over tighten the shackle straps and cause undo friction between the shackles and the leaf springs which then causes undo wear and possibly improper function. Now I'll admit I didn't hammer mine in, I used one of the old nuts and sucked in the wet bolt for the equalizer and the non-shackle ends of the leaf springs and then used the new nut and torqued to spec.
I’m sure it’s fine, but that weld holding the equalizer bracket to the frame looks awful. The new hardware looks over, engineered and robust compared to that thin , poorly welded bracket.
Looks like a well built kit. Maybe ask Santa for a torque wrench for Christmas 😁 Your lug nuts and suspension will thank you 😁
I was thinking the exact same thing.
I assume you replaced the bolts and bushings at the front and rear of the springs...you did not show that in the video. Also, you should always index the wet bolt grease ports to either the front or rear, never top or bottom.
Do you replace the bushings on the opposite ends of the equalizer shackles, far aft and far forward attach points for the leaf springs?
Always nice watching someone else work. 😊 Thank you for taking the time to film the process. Most appreciated!
In my 40+ years of Rv-n this is one of the best upgrades I did. Basically the same but the Mor-ryde 3000 system. Taking the older plastic bushings out and seeing the wear made me take a deep breath praising I didn't wait any longer. Going over bumps & RR tracks makes a huge difference in towing ride & piece of mind.
How many miles did you have on ur trailer before u switched out
@@benmoran6973 I'm guessing about 12-14k miles. We took 2-4k + mile trips and several ~1k and a fair number in the 250-300 mi area. The 'standard factory" plastic was about 95% worn out and ready to give. The Mor-ryde equalizer part really made a day & night difference going over bumps & RR tracks & the like. I won't own a tt w/o it again.
Would you recommend some additional stiffening on the hangers? I've got a 24 footer and it appears I have the same size steel stock for my hangers, but am concerned with hitting something that imparts a sideways force on the hangers bending them or breaking the weld. While I feel that Lippert made the frame with great welds all around (ahem) a good smack on the side of a wheel might shoot a big bending moment on the hanger.
And you experienced the other side, so you learned how to do it much faster and I congratulate you. Good job nice looking unit.
These are what I’m looking into putting on my 5th wheel since it’s time to replace my leaf springs! Thanks for the video!
The Nev-r-wear bushings that lippert sells will actually outlast the wetbolt bronze bushings easily.
Greasing these wetbolts does squat unless you take all the weight off before you grease.
Also just use blocks and bottle jacks. Eliminates the need for jackstands as bottle jack does both duties.
Hydraulic bottle jacks can fail...NEVER rely on hydraulics to hold anything.
I personally prefer to install the shackle bolts like you did, nuts facing out. It is easier during my pre-trip inspections to check that none of the nuts are working loose.
I'm not even going to say what I thought shackle shackle straps and werbolts were about...but now I am informed. Thanks for great videos on how things work.
Surprised you didn't go ahead and do wet bolts and new shackle straps on the other end of your springs.
Glad I had an RV repair shop install ours. Very worthwhile. Good job DIY.
We’ve had our surveyor 203rkle for 2 years and I hadn’t given much thought to upgrading the suspension equalizer until I saw this video. Just picked the trailer up from the shop and even unloaded it rows completely differently! Looking forward to our next trip with the trailer fully loaded with gear!
Love your videos and your honest reviews and recommendations!
A short piece of 1/2 copper pipe is perfect for pushing out the old bushings.
I ended up having to loosen up the axel U bolts to align the Dexter components to the springs and hangers.
SPECIAL NOTE: Only use a 11/16 six point socket to tighten/draw the bolts into place.
CAUTION. DO NOT FORGET THE OTHER FOWARD AND AFT BOLTS. Just did mine but also did the static pivots on the other end of the leaf springs too. These bushings were pulverized (metal on metal) while the ones in my cre3000 were bad but still there. The “static” bolts are the worst ones and should also be upgraded, not just the equalizer. 2016 Jayco jay flight 28BHBE
Very nice and clean work . Well done !
Jd I watched your video and I got concerned that when you raised the nose up with the tongue jack and using the jack stands in the way you did as a wedge affect put a lot of stresses on the frame especially up front where the tongue attaches to the main part of the frame, I probably would have put together some blocks and used your floor jack on on the frame to lift the trailer and then used the jack stands for support then moved the jacks to the axle to lift the axles up for support and keep in alignment for easy set up thanks for all the videos you do
Thanks. There are several ways to lift the RV. This is the method that I was instructed to use by several RV service shops.
I don’t understand how these are not standard. I know it’s for cost savings, but I would think it could save manufacturers money in preventative maintenance benefits.
The standard on some RVs. I'm pushing to make all RV manufacturers use some form of upgraded suspension.
Nice job, but you really should change out the pivot bolts and bushings on the outer ends of the springs. Very nice install and looks to be a great product!
I finally got around to installing the upgrade kit and discovered that the greasable bolts are not included with the kit. So I ordered them and will also replace the fixed end bolts as well with greasable bolts.
Great video, thanks. I’m a little new to the travel trailer world and I’ve been scratching my head trying to envision how I was going to raise my trailer to do this job. This is how I envisioned it but you added some nice details, like the long 2x4 and the rubber pucks on the floor jacks. One thing though, you didn’t install brass bushings on the other end of the spring. Or did I miss that. Anyways, again I have benefited from your content. Thank you sir.
2021 Lance 1995.
2024 F-350 KR SRW 6.7 HO.
Thank you for showing the process.
I've watched you do several of these and also your demonstration of several different options, what I would appreciate is a "why to choose one over the other" I have Dexter e-z flex on one trailer and found it to be a great upgrade. That said it is often much maligned piece yet it worked well for me. How does the Lippert unit outperform the Dexter item. No axe to grind here, just looking for the best item for my Box Trailer. I carry somewhat fragile cargo and the smoother the ride the better. Thanks for any objective comments. You do good work and the video's are great.
Suggest you do a drum to disc brake upgrade on your trailer. Smooth rides are important, but stopping is even more important.
Excellent tutorial now I can do this myself. Thank you for the detailed video!!!
Enjoyed the video. But there is one important step you didn’t show or mention, torquing the lug nuts.
You'll hear about torque specs but never see anyone actually do it. Reason being, is these are shoulder bolts and they stop and seat against a hard edge. They stop tightening when you hit that edge.
I’ve been considering LCI Roadarmor equalizer, but like the Morryde shackle kit better. I was concerned that they might not be a universal design or I might have compatibility issues. Thanks for posting this video, so I know my idea will work.
Going to agree with the others that mention a tq wrench. Ya can get it right by chance but chancing suspension isn't something im comfortable with. Great upgrade. Matter of fact this should come stock. Hint hint manufactures.
When I changed my bushings I was able to tap new bushing against old to get out simple exchange.
I do this every year with my EquaFlex equalizer to remove and inspect the wet bolts. You seem to be making this harder than it is. Jack stands, hydraulic jack and 2x12x10 boards is all you need. Do one tire at a time. Loosen the lugs, jack up the axle near the tire until one wet bolt hanger is loose. Remove and replace. Move to the next hanger. Done
Well I'm here to eat a little bit of crow, during all your talks about these upgraded equalizers I always doubted them as the front spring mount and the rear spring mount are connected directly to the frame with no "cushion" on them. Well, I bit the bullet and ordered this same exact setup for my 2017 Jayco 33RBTS since I was replacing all 4 springs due to a leaning issue. I've only towed it about 8 miles, but I only needed a 1/4 mile to see the MASSIVE improvement these provide. No more jarring when hitting rough spots in the road. Can't wait to get on the highway this weekend and see how much of an improvement these will have over expansion joints over bridges where I cringe on the bad ones.
We have the equa-flex on our TT. Going on 4 years of traveling with it.
Stupid question but does it add any additional bounce when someone walks across the camper?
I have the 19RBLE Surveyor which is a single axle trailer. There’s only one shackle at one end of the leaf spring. Do you recommend replacing the one shackle on each side. I would also like to install Sumo springs on the axle. What do you think?
I’m looking into this for my Apex Nano 185BH. Also considering adding a shock absorber kit from dexter or Lippert/Roadmaster
I dont know who you are or how you got in my feed. I'm commenting and subscribing off this thumbnail alone. This should be good...
Thanks my new friend!
Really enjoyed your videos all of them.
I am wondering what you think about the Roadmaster COMFORT RIDE SLIPPER SPRING SYSTEMS compared to this system seen in this video, I have a Grand Design travel trailer that’s about 30 feet long?
Can you recommend a suspension upgrade for Forest River wide stance axel travel trailers? I've not seen any in my limited searches. Thank you for ALL the videos you provide. Truly appreciated.
Quite honestly, when I see videos of trailers with this type of suspension and drum brakes, it amazes me how the manufacturers are able to get away with garbage components.
JD, what are your thoughts about the thickness of the frame hangers vs the new heavy duty shackles? Seems like this might move the weak point of the system is to the brackets welded to the frame. Seems like I see more failures of that bracket, either bent or cracks at the welds, vs the other suspension components.
Do you ever rotate your trailer tires? You mentioned your TPMS system and not wanting to recalibrate. I typically rotate my boat trailer tires once a year. Much easier to do it when the boat is in the water.
And you can reach to grease Zaire’s from outside without crawling under camper. If you orient accordingly.
JD. Need your help. I bought this exact set up. I tried following the steps you outline in the installation. I was only able to get one bolt off and stripped another.
Question is. After supporting the frame with the jacks. I then jacked up the axels and removed the tires.
I could never seem to get the current factory Dexter loose. Do I need to lower the axels off the jack once I get the tires off??
Thanks
We are looking at a Bigfoot 25RT fiberglass travel trailer. I have a 2020 F450 , not having any travel trailer experience so you think I would need stabilizer bars ? Also a equalizer type hitch ? Any input is welcome. Love your axle upgrade .
I see that MORryde has the X-Factor Crossmember. My question is what is your thoughts and for a travel trailer would you install 3 kits? Thank You
What was the diameter of the stainless steel rod you used to pysh the nylon bushing out? Do you have an Amazon link to share? Thanks! I did see someone in the comments used a 1/2" piece of copper pipe. Same diameter?
JD , first off love all you video's, did you add the wet bolts and bushings the opposite sides of the leaf spring ?
Thanks for the video.
Nice, very nice, okay I know that you have mentioned them before what is the link for the socket.
Hello, I made a video on them recently.
Im not sure how long you have had these installed but was wondering if you still liked the equalizers (EquaFlex) or would you choose Road Armor or MORyde if you had to do it over again?
Did you do the other bolts/bushings on the far end of the springs? Outside ends rather than the inside w/ the equalizer.
I'm curious. What is the brand of that black adjustable aluminum step you have at bottom of your 5th wheel steps at the start of the video? It looks large and sturdy.
I'm curious why something heavy like these trailers don't have actual shocks installed. Seems it would reduce the bounce the main body experiences.
Conclusion: JD dreams of working on a pit crew and this is his audition reel.
"Honey.... Y'know how I did a video on an excavator and we needed to get one for the channel....?"
How big is the difference ? Can you make a video inside during towing .
Where can I buy the thin wall socket set u used
I’ve read a few of the comments regarding the use of a torque wrench. I understand the shoulder nuts but what about the wheel lug nuts. They should absolutely be torqued to spec. I find it a bit irresponsible that you not only didn’t demonstrate it but didn’t mention it.
Nice work
Very interesting and detailed video, would you recommend this upgrade for a Coachmen Freedom Express 20SE 4100 dry 6000 loaded?
Yes. I personally believe that anything you do to prevent or mitigate shock from traveling into the RV, Even if by a tiny margin, is a good idea.
@@BTBRVReviews Thanks a lot, definitely on my shopping list 👍
Did you replace the other set of bolts on the other side of the leaf springs??
So I have a 6x12 enclose trailer with dual axle and I Carry house plants and cactus for my business. Every time I do a market, all my plants fly all over the place and I have to pot them up again. Would this work to not make them jump to much during my travel?
Or what would you recommend ?
I don’t mind spending more for something that will make the bouncing better.
Hello, I would say you'd want shocks and a suspension setup with more travel to absorb the shock. I would look at the new Touring suspension from Lippert OR possibly the AllTrek4000 from Morryde with shocks.
@@BTBRVReviews so the Road Armor Shock-Absorbing Trailer Equalizer ?
Aren't there torque specs for the nuts as well as the wheel lug nuts? I didn't see any torque wrench in the video.
it looks nicer, but really what will you notice for the few times a year one may use their camper?
An incredibly smooth ride to and from your campsite.
Where do you get the blocks from again??
Only wish my worn out rusty old components came off that easy....
I'd like to swap out my 7k axles for 8k axles & upgrade the springs too. Any recommendations?
You turned all the zerk fittings towards the inboard side , with the exception of the top one . Wouldn’t you have run into the same problem with that one that you would have run into with the lower ones (ie. the tire) ?
No sir, it's clear access to that one
Do you have a link to the Mighty Blocks?
question i have a 32’ toy hauler double 5500 dexter axles with a 33” wheel base. how or what equa flex setup do i need? i currently have the solid one
How often do you need to grease the wet bolts ?
I have a 2022 Surveyor 202RBLE and wondering how to find out if this kit is correct for my trailer. How would I find out for sure?
It should be the same kit.
Should we use a torque wrench on the lug nuts (or any of the nuts really) to verify proper torque?
There may be a torque setting but because they self lock, it's generally not something that is done.
Torque spec for the shackle bolts is 45 and 50 on the leaf spring eye.
How much grease you give it.
Any thoughts on balancing the wheels?
Yep. Will likely do that. I always recommend it
What about the other ends of the springs?
Yeah those are the "fun" ones...
He said he finished the rest of it off camera.
The other end is fixed to more of a frame mount, even though they do hang down. Upgrades would require welding.
@@mikedurham3563 The upgrade would've been replace the standard bolts and nylon bushing with wetbolts and bronze bushings. No welding needed.
What is 33 or 35 inch axles?
33
You didn't do the other end of the springs
I made a full video talking about the rationale behind this
@@BTBRVReviews I saw that later. But while at it it's a quick job and does allow lubrication. I replaced the bushings on my last camper and one of those was worn out.
im surprised there is no torque value on them bolts
They say 40lbs but the nut seats directly against the end of the bolt where it stops. So you aren't actually "tightening" to a specification if that makes sense.
@@BTBRVReviews If you read the instructions from Morryde you are suppose to hammer in the wet bolt then secure the nut to torque value. Just impacting them in can actually over tighten the shackle straps and cause undo friction between the shackles and the leaf springs which then causes undo wear and possibly improper function. Now I'll admit I didn't hammer mine in, I used one of the old nuts and sucked in the wet bolt for the equalizer and the non-shackle ends of the leaf springs and then used the new nut and torqued to spec.
I’m sure it’s fine, but that weld holding the equalizer bracket to the frame looks awful. The new hardware looks over, engineered and robust compared to that thin , poorly welded bracket.
That’s the reality of travel trailers…
Those lug nuts are very loose!
They are not. The impact gun is DeWalts larger one.
Equa flex are garbage the bushings turned to powder in one season
Upgraded with Dexter ez flex no problems