How To Remove SRAM DUB Cranks
Вставка
- Опубліковано 21 сер 2022
- SUPPORT BY SHOPPING:
Aventuron: alnk.to/9xf5Q4c
Bikes Online: bikesonline-usa.sjv.io/BXMz5x
Competitive Cyclists: alnk.to/4fMmpBf
Evo: alnk.to/6xGdahD
Jenson USA: jenson.sjv.io/VyeXNO
KETL MTN (Use Coupon “jared15-ktl392”): ketlmtn.com/?ref=veD08mqUwHjHI
Session Components (Use Coupon ”CURECYCLING”): www.session-usa.com/collectio...
Venture Apparel Co (Use Coupon “CureCycling20”): www.ventureapparelco.com
Worldwide Cyclery: alnk.to/bEebBX0
CURE CYCLING LINKS:
Website: www.flowcode.com/page/curecyc...
Patreon: / curecycling
Merch: teespring.com/stores/cure-cyc...
MY GEAR:
Full Face Helmet: amzn.to/2RyQCYW
Hip Bag: amzn.to/3pCjFHZ
Clip In Riding Shoes: amzn.to/3g6AuaN
Half Shell Helmet: amzn.to/3dpb1qV
Flat Riding Shoes: amzn.to/3x6GGF9
My Camera Gear:
GoPro Hero 10 Black: amzn.to/31Ddawz
Canon M50 MkII: amzn.to/3qNAgsy
EVOC CP26 Camera Bag: amzn.to/3qLKLwy
Your support is greatly appreciated, and it helps the channel grow!
THANK YOU!
Music Credit: Epidemic Sound
#CureCycling #MTB #MTBLife - Розваги
As a bike mechanic i can approve of this method 😂👍
THANK YOU! Someone gets it. 😂🫡
As a bike mechanic. I don’t understand why you are pulling instead of pushing. Its a lot easier to get a better position.
@@austinmckimmey8566 that is true, I usually just stand on the tool 🤣
@@austinmckimmey8566 He had more leverage on the breaker bar than on the crank so he pushed on the crank and pulled on the bar.
That second BOOP was too close for comfort🤣
Lol!! Gotta risk it for the biscuit. 😂😂😂
Wow, that is really the hard way to do that, don't flip the bike upside down, keep it right side up, set the drive side crank at 3 o'clock put your 8 mm and breaker bar in, so it's at about 2 o'clock, put one foot on the pedal and crank back on the bar, easy as pie. As a working shop mechanic, I only do this about 5 times a day. LOL
Sweet!
100% superior method. Someone (you or maybe me?) should make a 30sec video... amazeballs.
It works....dang....!
I just did this on my my new bike with Sram crank which refused to budge even with the aid of a cheap chinese impact wrench (I know I'm not supposed to use power tools on stuff like this, but I was desperate because the LORT - shit in danish - was STUCK).
Thank you Mister "I do this 5 times a day". ❤
This is the way!
Holy shit, thank you!
Instructions unclear, my cranks stripped
Time to call SRAM!! 😂
This was the only video that helped lol thanks 🎉
If I only helped one person with my video, then my work is worth it!
Dude you just showed me the way to get leverage by turning it upside down. You saved me a trip to a friend's house to install a freaking power meter!
I'll still go hang out but now it's less frustration 😂
Glad I could help pal!
Helpful to know which way to turn and that it can be very stiff. AN IMPROVEMENT: keep the bike upright with left pedal in forward position resting on a cinder block. This will brace the pedal. Position your Allen key and breaker bar also facing forward and slightly upward and push with your foot. The pedal is braced and your pressure keeps it on the ground. Presto!
I don’t have a cinder block but later on I did try this using an old bedside table thing and it did the same thing. Worked great! Just chewed up the table pretty bad. 😂😂😂
Or just use an impact gun
Put a strap around the opposite crank arm and chainstay. It will hold the arms in place and you can use all your strength on removing the bolt. Also works for stubborn pedal removal
I agree that this would work perfectly I’m just very nervous about putting a strap around a carbon chain stay maybe I’m overthinking it.
@@JaredRMorgan there is an easy fix to taht ...ride aluminium frames🤣
I replaced my nx cranks before and after so many attempts on loosening the bolt, i knelt on the breaker bar and used my body weight and tried tightening the bolt a bit more just to get it moving. After it moved i tried to loosen it using again my body weight with the knee. Oddly enough it was a success.
That’s interesting!
I find that its alot easier if you remove the screw cap 1st, then crack the bolt loose, then reinstall the cap and unscrew the bolt to remove the crank
That way you can do it with a ratchet rather than needing a breaker bar
This is the first bit of advice that I think actually makes sense, and totally worth a try! It's mental how tight these get!!
@@JaredRMorgan i work on cars so I'm use to really tight nuts and bolts lol.
I did have abit of a nightmare trying to figure out the best way to remove the crank though. I was scared of damaging it with it being an aluminium alloy so i didn't dare use a breaker bar. It was the 1st dub crank i had came across and the reverse thread on the cap also made it a little confusing lol. Now though i can remove it in seconds with just a ratchet.
“Laughs in Shimano” 🤣😅
Right there with you! No sram cranks in this house anymore lol.
I usually align the tool handle near the same side crank, so that I can pull it, sort of like squeezing handles of pliers. Usually just a regular Allen wrench will do.
A traditional Allen key shouldn’t work… it’s supposed to be tightened to 54nm, which would bend/snap something like the park tool p-handle Allen
Sam knows^
A direct drive trainer makes this job a piece of cake for anyone out there suffering
thats an interesting tip!
Shimano's new HollowTech BB is the only way forward. Just engineering brilliance!
They got a new one? I gotta check that out!
The best way I found is to take the rear wheel out and unbolt the derailleur, then position the drive side crank pointing up and towards the front and then putting an allen key in where its positioned under the crank arm while in the bolt. Then setting the bike up right on the ground with the allen key resting on the ground and just using your foot to stomp on the pedal and itll break the bolt loose.
man I need a video! I can't envision this.
I throw my bike down 4 flights of stairs and that usually does the job
haha! Now that's an instructional video I'd love to see.
You made my night 😂
I like to let the other pedal press against my hip so I can both hands on the rachet.
Smart!!
I Do it the same way 😁👍🏻
Better: with the bike on the ground upright, remove the drive side pedal, put a 2’ or longer piece of PVC pipe (standard 3” household diameter) on your crank arm pointing backward, resting on the ground (7 o’clock), use a handlebar or pipe or whatever on your 8mm Allen wrench and insert it in the bolt angled forward (3 o’clock), weight the saddle with your chest, wrench upward, get it done in one go, with much less effort.
It worked so well for me after I couldn’t loosen mine with the method above that I had to comment.
I had a six foot length of 3” diam PVC pipe handy though.
I don’t have that much pipe to my disposal sadly. But the good news is, there isn’t a set of SRAM cranks in my house anymore. 😁
Slip a pipe over a crank or zip tie a length of something to one of the cranks for more leverage and better control.
Agree that's a good idea. Eventually, I'll find something I can slide over the other crank arm that I can have faith in that won't slip or fail. It takes a TON of force!
You should use copper grease to stop them from being so hard to undo
I’ve heard the anti seize can help yes. My long terms solution has been shimano cranks. 😜
watched, understood and thought about it for a second. Then: inserted allen wrench w/ approx 30 degree angle between allen arm and crank arm, leaving enough clearance for long allen arm to clear crank arm when it moves...used 1/4" rope and wove 2 strands snug around allen arm and crank arm being sure to wind around pedal shaft to prevent slippage. tied ends. inserted 5" rod(short enough to clear acute angle of key and crank) and began twisting tourniquet style. it gets tight quick and had to use small pipe to finish but it popped loose , no fuss, no rage.
Make a video. You description is hard to follow.
@@JaredRMorgan yeah, hard to describe but easy once you see it. a vid is a good idea. will send a link.
You shouldn't have to have your cranks that tight mate
Agreed and that’s why I made this video. This is a known issue with SRAM dub. They were installed to spec, and nearly impossible to remove.
@@JaredRMorgan would it be alright to lessen the torque to less than 54nm then?
I don't think you really understand the joke here Glenn lol
Slab some anti seize on the threads next time.
Bro, I have used silver grade anti seize and a torque wrench during assembly, and I still needed heat and an act of god to loosen cranks AND pedals 😂😂
When you have a hydraulic brake, make sure to give it a few pumps after you put it back from the upside down position.
I normally do just out of habit
No? That just means your brakes have air in them. And would require an air bleed.
@@mikuramsay every brake has air inside it is not possible to bleed it 100%! Normally you put a spacer in the caliper to bleed so in the moment you pump the pads onto the disc there is room for air inside the system what is normal! You can bleed the brake without the distance piece but then you overfill it and when you push back the pistons you will destroy your lever in 90% of the case because the Oil/Dot can't go enywhere. That is the reason of the reservoir in the lever.
@@mpvabi95 no, after a clean bleed, no air should be in the system, if it's airtight, the pistons being pushed out will create a vacuum, not an air pocket, there's a reason why hydraulic brake levers will have a rubber diaghram in the resovoir instead of just being a solid piece. It's only when you open it up again, where air gets in and you can fill it up with more oil. However, air can also get in over a long period of time, so it will have to be bled when the time comes as well.
under no circumstances should your levers go limp when you flip your bike, it means it can happen out on the trail as well.
Tie opposite crank arm to the chainstay. A large velcro strap works as well.
I've tried strap methods before and had them violently pop off. Scary proposition when dealing with a carbon frame. Not saying it wouldn't work, but I prefer to have full control of the situation rather than relying on an inanimate object.
I have been a mechanic for 37yr. Your not using a large enough strap if it pops off. If using velcro should it should be about 2 inches wide and about a foot long. Also a 2 foot long piece of 2 inch pvc pipe with a slot cut in it to fit over the peddle axle. In the end game it's what ever you are comfortable with. As long as it works too get the job done. Work smarter not harder.
I needed a like 4 foot Cheater bar lmao, sram really likes em tight
its ridiculous! LOL.
Its not really all that tight. The way they make the threads just cause them suckers to seize. From the friction of the bolt threads along with the pressure on the extractor plate makes em pretty nasty. Wear gloves too, itll help with the break away shock to your hands. Its like hitting a metal pole with a aluminum bat with no wrap on it. Hurts like hell.
@@peterrose1695 not even that bad
Could you use an impact wrench?
Tried it to no avail.
You can, just need enough breaking power. I have a Milwaukee M18 Fuel for my car stuff, it made short work of this on my SC Chameleon
I just used a air impact worked good spun it right off
Very nice!
Very nice!
Have you ever reported a car tyre before? Its always easier to push down then pull up. 😊
Not in this case bc the crank spins, but yes I agree on the car tire.
With my luck I’ll clock myself in the nuts at the first “boop”, rendering me unable to remove the cranks at all.
It’s definitely a risk. LOL. Pretty bad crank design.
Instead of pulling on the breaker bar, push on it. Much easier.
I’m concurrently pushing on the crank arm. Pushing is easier than pulling and that’s why I choose to push on the shorter of the 2 levers. Creates equal pressure.
I use an impact, and it takes 2 seconds to get it off.
Nice! My impact can’t do it.
i'm using impact wrench
My 20v dewalt brushless doesn’t stand a chance against Sram.
Just curious. Anyone has the links to Amazon where I can grab the items? I always find it hard to find the correct bit sizes and attachments to the breaker bar
My breaker bar is 1/2” drive so I’m using this…amzn.to/3igQhao
Just use my 1400 fr tq impact 😅
Haha! Blast off!
the bike after 9 months: 🤰
😂😂😂
instead of leverage up, push down so you have better weight behind it
since pushing down is easier, I do that to the shorter side (the crank arm)....it levels the playing field keeping the crank from spinning.
@@JaredRMorgan ah yeah it’s reverse for me, pushing up the crank and down the tool
i feel like it would be easier to grab the other crank so you just pushing down, not down on the crank and up on the bar, you use your body weight rather than muscles
You would think but I’ve tried every version to find what’s easiest and somehow this is what’s best for me. I’m using all of my body weight to keep that crank arm stable while pulling. Since it’s all on bearings it wants to spin.
@@JaredRMorgan ah ok
why pull the bar instead of push using your weight?
I’m pushing too. Pushing is easier so I do that on the shorter lever. Makes the forces equal-ish so the cranks don’t spin.
How do you tighten it back
Torque wrench set to 54nm.
I literally take rope, tie my crank to my frame, take my 8mm allen key, put an old bar on it. And go at it... sometimes i hammer the bar..
Sounds about right. Such an insane design lol.
Pretty poor way to do it
Wow so hard unscrew a screw
It’s insane lol
Overtorqued install?
Nope torqued to spec at 54nm. SRAM DUB problems.
54nm and a 2ft breaker. You weak bro. Taken off motorcycle swingarms and wheels with way than than. Even car wheel nuts are way more.
@@1000sofusernames he didn't have position
snapped my allen thread
DANG BOIIII
@@JaredRMorgan Praying sram will provide a replacement
Use your foot on the pedal.
tried it...the force would normally just push my leg up or make the bike topple over. This is the way.
Me who did it with a 8mm hex wrench 😅
You must have some BRUTE strength. Better go enter the local arm wrestling tournament!
Someone get this man a bike stand
I have two! haha! I only wrestle the bike like this off stand in the case of SRAM dub. If it's on the stand, it'll literally topple over from all of the forces being put on the crank.
There's literally a parker stand in the background
Wow Remove this Thing need lots of Power to do Hahaha I do my own Bike also Like this Need Lots of power Be be Careful Don't Hurt Yourself
Yeah it’s wild!
You could just unscrew that without putting your bike upsidedown right
Nah bc you basically have to tackle it lol.
Imagine a shinner, but on your boys instead….
Haha! The gnarliest of the gnar.
Or use an impact
Tried it. Wouldn’t do the job.
You should not because the bolts are aluminum which is a soft alloy and could result in damaging the bolt.
Mine turned half a revolution and got stuck again.
Edit: kept cranking and it came loose!
stubborn one! Give it another go, it'll let go. When reassembling, I use some anti seize these days. That way it's less likely to be so stuck.
That’s the bolt coming loose before it hits the self extractor cap, that’s the hardest bit.
Or just buy Shimano that have the easy and correct way to preload thrust/end play and don't eat bearings
That’s not how this bike was specced but yes I highly prefer shimano cranks.
I can get that screw out, but my cranks still dont pull apart, it's like theyre stuck together
sounds like you lost the extraction cap.
@@JaredRMorgan PLease explain
@@malicioussteev Self-extracting cranksets have the bolt that installs the crankarm to the spindle held captive by a left-hand threaded cover that the bolt butts against when you turn the crankarm bolt anti-clockwise to remove the crankarm from the spindle. If that cover is missing, you're not getting the crankarm out.
In this video, the cover we're talking about is the ring in the center with two DUB logos on it, usually installed with a pin spanner, 10 mm hex tool or cassette tool, depending on the model and brand.
@@yonglingng5640 thanks I did end up buying the cover , then it came off easy
No the brakes are you smart
What??
But the crank is still on. It's not removed
That’s the Achilles heel to removing them. The rest is self explanatory.
Just ignore loosening the preload adjuster.😢
You think a little plastic ring is going to change anything? Really? Lol.
@@JaredRMorgan show me your engineering creds and I'll see myself out.
Does flipping the bike upside dowm really do something funny to the hydraulic brakes or is that a myth?
Absolute myth.
@@JaredRMorgan oh dang, time to save up for MT 200s now then hahaha have you by any chance tried them?
Just grease it
It’s got plenty of grease on it. If it didn’t, it would’ve been even harder.
So I skipped a few steps and attached the 8mm to my Milwaukee impact, 3 seconds later, all done.
Milwaukee must be solid bc my dewalt cannot and will not bust it loose. Ever.
@@JaredRMorgan there’s different tiers of the impacts, possible yours doesn’t have enough breaking force, doesn’t make it a bad tool, just not the right tool for the job.
If you grease the bb and that 8mm bolt it's actually not hard lmao
All of that was greased. Yours probably isn’t torqued to spec.
Even with a lot of grease 54 nm is a lot of force to use
Air tool 🤫
Perhaps, but the bolt is aluminum (main issue)…the rapid approach I fear may strip it. Just kinda have to suffer with this one I think.
Looks too tight. Should only be at 40-50nm...
Nope it’s specced to be at 54nm and thats exactly where it was tightened to.
If you use anti seez you would need that brakes bar
The cranks came with anti seize on it soooooo
@@JaredRMorgan re apply it each time
Absolutely did not help after that I can't get cranks off
Yikes!
Heap of crap! The 8mm alloy nut threaded which left me with a super tight pain in the arse job. The design is over torqued for an alloy soft nut.
Yeah it’s a wacky design.
Buy Shimano. Solved
Facts. 😂😂😂
Do not flip your bike upside down if u have hydraulic brakes. Air will get inside your system
Not true
@@JaredRMorgan yeah do whatever you want
I’ll bite, how does air get into a closed loop system?
@@l00tur maybe stop being so arogant when you have no clue what you are talkung about. Modern braking systems are "open systems" (google it 5head). At your lever is a resavoir for your mineral oil or dot-fluid. When the pistons at your caliper move in with the weardown of the pads, fluid will run after to compansate. Air has to get inside the resorvoir otherwise the liquid wouldnt be able to run after caused by negativ pressure. Now if you turn your bike upside down without the levers pushed, the system is open and air get into the hose. When the lever is pushed the system is closed otherwise you wpuldnt be able to build up pessure.
Weird flex
How?
@@JaredRMorgan I’m joking. I’m just jealous of the drivetrain haha
Buys a shimano 🤣
Shimano has a way better design.
@@JaredRMorgan for sure. I find anything SRAM has always started to creak after removing and re installing a bunch of times. The click of death. I prefer the pinch style like shimano or older BMX cranks. (Power bite and 8/16 spline)
First put the bike in the bin and buy a bike with a real groupset
🆒
Use a mini sledge on your breaker bar so you dont throw your back out
Smart advice. My back thanks you.
Annoying to remove, but I've never had a crank arm fall off mid ride. Wish I could say the same for my Shimano crank equipped bikes.
I feel that for sure. Fwiw, I’ve never had a shimano fall off but I know they had some notorious bad batches.