The first couple of time I done this i managed to to get it off with a 7” long hex key but it took a lot of sweating and time. I then bought a 15” breaker bar and the next time I had to remove it it came off easily 🎉
Great video. Very thorough. I used it to walk me through taking my crank off to re-grease and tighten everything up from a sinister creak when I pedal. If it wasn’t for this video I would have had to leave it at a bike shop for who knows how long.
Wrench Breaker Extension Bar, what sort of bar is he oor are you using ? i have this long 8mm Allen key and i can't get it off using that, it is so seized in may be as well from riding
@@robinbreeds9217 see my post above! Looks like this bolt issue is NOT unique to me. Just about three comments in, I find someone else having this issue. Heck, maybe I'll call SRAM to request they warranty the trashed bolt so I can return the one I paid $18 for at the LBS!
Yet another great video. Awesome. I always come to this channel for advice. Saved my Axx many a time. Lack of LBS staff resources = need to do your own work
@Free To Cycle, thank you very much for taking the time to do a step by step tutorial on the removal & installation for the SRAM DUB BSA bottom bracket. I just purchased the SRAM Eagle Nx version, and your video goes into much greater detail than the one on the actual SRAM website. Also, thank you for pointing out not to over tighten the 2mm retention allen screw, as I've read incidents where people have stripped them out, and damaged the bearings. I love your videos, as well as RJ the Bike Guy's videos as well. Keep up the great work, and have an awesome day!!
Ding, ding, ding! I'm pulling a perfectly good NX crank & BB to install the wife's dropper. So this is exactly why I'm here - so I don't damage the bearings removing the BB. (Ironically when I slid the left crank arm & spindle out of the BB, I tore the left blue o-ring in half! Figures!!! Dammit SRAM, stop making such delicate parts!!!
My day started by finding my 14 year old son taking apart his 2020 Giant MTB crank set to do some "maintenance". When ever I see my son do these things, I usually run (sprint) into the shop to assist, as we know it's much easier to take things apart than assemble! Thanks for the video, it helped immensely!
Just letting you know it’s great that you son is learning how to work on things like this I’m 15 and do 100 %of my maintenance on my bikes myself and because I learn at a Young age I buy and sell bikes like this at 15
I was searching all evening for a video that would help me uninstall my old kit then install the new stuff, and nothing was really hitting the mark until I saw this video. Thanks so much! And, bonus points for the pronounciation of "drive side" haha. Nice one.
Shit I'm trying to loosen the new stuff I *just* installed so I can install another spacer (Chris King fit kit thing) and I can't. I am regretting the decision to go with dub cranks right now.
Yes, I totally agree with last post, informative and also helpful, on my trek bike, 9 months after purchase, the bearings are clicking. I have no faith in shop, so i will remove and clean myself. Thanks for taking the time to put this presentation together.
Hey, it's THIS guy! Searched NX BB removal and this was the first result. I first saw Free to Cycle in his post-crash incident video. I came here after a friend was hit similarly. Mega OUCH! Anyway, anyone else here come across a REALLY tight NX crank bolt? The Scott Spark is 2 years old, stored indoors and not ridden in inclement weather. I USUALLY pull apart a new bike bought at the LBS and re-build it with proper lube, spoke tensioning, radial & lateral truing to higher spec, etc. But I didn't get around to doing this bike, so I have no idea of the original condition of the crank bolt. Most certainly in there with the factory grease - if any. But wow, that 8mm aluminum bolt would NOT release! Attempted removal with my normal 8mm allen wrench. Wouldn't budge. So I took the Milwaukee 12V Fuel impact wrench, setting 2 to it. NOPE! So I gave setting 3 a try and not a chance! Dang! But I stopped short before doing any impact damage to the Al bolt. So I put the bike on its right side, inserted the 8mm allen wrench to plug the bolt hole (with some electrical tape to seal) and filled the bottom of the BB axle/spindle with PB Blaster penetrating oil. Let it sit for THREE days! Went at it again with the wrenches & impact and it still wouldn't budge. So I left it for a few weeks so the wife could ride it in the interim. Oh and I picked up a replacement 8mm SRAM bolt at the IBD, knowing I was gonna destroy the OEM bolt in the removal process... Just went back at it half an hour ago. I torqued it so hard I twisted my drill-to-3/8" socket attachment! (Not torque rated, but it had lasted over 10 years of mostly drill use.) That didn't release it either. So before breaking out the Dremel with cutting wheel, I secured the crank arm in place and slid my breaker bar over the 8mm wrench and gave it one last try. "SQUEEEEK-BAM!" It finally let go! Thank god. But boy are the 8mm "flats" inside the bolt done! Glad I have the spare ready to go. So I'm curious if this bolt/spindle combination is prone to seizing up. Will use ample Mobil One synthetic waterproof grease on everything during reassembly. Might add some anti-seize to the thread grease while I'm at it. So the cranks are off, but now I see it's a press-fit BB of some sort. Dammit! Don't want to trash the bearings removing it. So I figured I'd get some tips before doing something I'd regret! I'm doing this all to just install a damn dropper post the wife has been lacking these two + years now. Sheesh! Darn, this is a threaded BB.... off to another video to see how the press fit removal is recommended. Thanks anyway!
Great instructional video! My bike mech was trying to remove my BB and couldn't budge it. My GT is brand new and there's awful creaking noises coming from the BB, so I want to look at the condition/grease on it. Thank you so much! Bob in Japan
Very helpful, THANK YOU! If not for your warning about the tight 8mm around 1:25, I probably would have chickened-out and taken my bike in to the shop. Great video!
Wrench Breaker Extension Bar, what sort of bar is he using ? i have this long 8mm allen key and i can't get it off using that, it is so seized in may be as well from riding.
@@robinbreeds9217 I'm sure you probably have sorted this, but he's using a standard 1/2" drive breaker bar, with a 3/8” adapter into an 8mm hex drive bit. I had to go buy the adapter and drive bit this weekend to do this task when it became apparent the standard 8mm Allen key wasn't going to cut it at all
Beautifully done! I have a new XO1 12 speed Eagle, and when I reach 1 yr. of age or less for the bike, I'll take this off just to regrease it and clean it up. Thanks for a great video!
To remove the 50nm crank, i had just a regular 8mm hex, 20cm long, what i did was i left chain on, for tension on crank pedals. Then to the drive side, ive sat with my groin on the pedal arm, and i pushed the 8mm down, away from me, while doing a little rodeo ride on the pedal. It worked
Thank You so much for the video. I have a brand new bike I bought from a dealer a month ago, 3 hrs drive away and I want to change the SRAM Chainset to one with a Power Meter. AM FC ASSY XX1 EAGLE DUB 8B, CRING X-SYNC EAGLE 32T 104, AM PM SPIDER AXS DZERO XX1 BOOST and although I have ordered the BB AM BB DUB BSA 68/73 ROADMTB,73 ROAD WIDE I think I have the same one already and will hang on to it as a spare. I'll only find out when I actually remove it.
Brilliant - pedals very stiff on my Whyte 905 and had been trying to book it in for repairs for a while but due to these difficult times the shops are either closed or have long waiting lists. Decided to do it myself, first time for work at what I would normally have regarded as a proffesional job. This video is great taking you through and clearly explaining every step and the bike being worked on had exactly the same set-up including spacers etc as mine, as I said Brilliant!
Wow! Amazing my adjuster broke out on a DH section assuming a rock hit it n broke it so it was a walk back toe the motor! Was apprehensive on doing this stuff as kts all new n a carbon frame. Im waiting for the preload adjuster to arrive n may as well invest in a new Bb 👊🏻
Thanks for the thorough video! I was able to get the 8mm bolt off with a breaker bar and the thin washer. Afterwards I'm still unable to pull my drive side crank arm off. I've pulled and pulled and it isn't moving though the bolt isn't there and nothing obvious is there to hold it on. Any ideas how to get that drive side arm to pull off?
Outstanding! Probably one of the best how-to videos I have seen in awhile. The official video for this setup calls for a BB press. Why is that? I noticed you did not need one at all. Thanks in advance.
Make sure the self-extracting cap (the bit with the Dub logo on) is still on the bike. Mine wasn’t on (must have rattled out) and the cranks wouldn’t self-extract when loosening the bolt. Got a replacement ordered off eBay for £15
On thing they don't tell you in all these videos is that you may have to use a crank-puller in order to get the pedal arm off. I have to use it every time for my new Trek bike.
Awesome vid. I work in the industry but am not a mechanic, so I needed a refresher to DIY my DUB BB and address a slight creak. Btw, interesting accent, where are you from?
That was one of the best and easiest to follow service videos I have seen
''Make sure you've got a good 2 foot, 3 foot bar''
Me: *Stares intensely at multi-tool
I actually broke my nice quality 8mm square drive hex key trying to remove my cranks!
@@JasonWD in the end i bought a a set of hex wrenches and a length of pipe
He wasn't wrong. A 1ft steel tube sorted it out!
thats my reality
The first couple of time I done this i managed to to get it off with a 7” long hex key but it took a lot of sweating and time. I then bought a 15” breaker bar and the next time I had to remove it it came off easily 🎉
The most informative video on this subject I've seen .
Thorough, clear, detailed - thanks!
Awesome tutorial on taking off and reinstalling the DUB crankset.
Great video. Very thorough. I used it to walk me through taking my crank off to re-grease and tighten everything up from a sinister creak when I pedal. If it wasn’t for this video I would have had to leave it at a bike shop for who knows how long.
Great video, I’ve saved this one and watch it each time I replace my SRAM DUB BB
Thank you sir! Very thorough and easy to follow instructions as always. You should get an award!!
Grateful that this applies directly to MTB; thank you
This is exactly the information I was looking for. Thank you for putting the time and effort into this video. Very helpful!👍
Agreed. Very concise video.thanks
Me too ;)
Wrench Breaker Extension Bar, what sort of bar is he oor are you using ? i have this long 8mm Allen key and i can't get it off using that, it is so seized in may be as well from riding
@@robinbreeds9217 for a breaker bar I actually use an old seatpost for leverage. Also, make absolutely sure you are turning in the correct direction.
@@robinbreeds9217 see my post above! Looks like this bolt issue is NOT unique to me. Just about three comments in, I find someone else having this issue.
Heck, maybe I'll call SRAM to request they warranty the trashed bolt so I can return the one I paid $18 for at the LBS!
I wasn’t looking forward to this job but you simplified it nicely. Nice work!
Thanks for the time and effort to put this out… new to SRAM, now no longer intimidated. Perfect
Yet another great video. Awesome. I always come to this channel for advice. Saved my Axx many a time. Lack of LBS staff resources = need to do your own work
@Free To Cycle, thank you very much for taking the time to do a step by step tutorial on the removal & installation for the SRAM DUB BSA bottom bracket. I just purchased the SRAM Eagle Nx version, and your video goes into much greater detail than the one on the actual SRAM website. Also, thank you for pointing out not to over tighten the 2mm retention allen screw, as I've read incidents where people have stripped them out, and damaged the bearings. I love your videos, as well as RJ the Bike Guy's videos as well. Keep up the great work, and have an awesome day!!
Ding, ding, ding! I'm pulling a perfectly good NX crank & BB to install the wife's dropper. So this is exactly why I'm here - so I don't damage the bearings removing the BB. (Ironically when I slid the left crank arm & spindle out of the BB, I tore the left blue o-ring in half! Figures!!! Dammit SRAM, stop making such delicate parts!!!
My day started by finding my 14 year old son taking apart his 2020 Giant MTB crank set to do some "maintenance". When ever I see my son do these things, I usually run (sprint) into the shop to assist, as we know it's much easier to take things apart than assemble! Thanks for the video, it helped immensely!
Just letting you know it’s great that you son is learning how to work on things like this I’m 15 and do 100 %of my maintenance on my bikes myself and because I learn at a Young age I buy and sell bikes like this at 15
Steps are perfectly explained -- thank you so much for this video!
its videos like this we need. Slow and really detailed tutorials, keep up the good work mate!
I was searching all evening for a video that would help me uninstall my old kit then install the new stuff, and nothing was really hitting the mark until I saw this video. Thanks so much! And, bonus points for the pronounciation of "drive side" haha. Nice one.
Shit I'm trying to loosen the new stuff I *just* installed so I can install another spacer (Chris King fit kit thing) and I can't. I am regretting the decision to go with dub cranks right now.
Yes, I totally agree with last post, informative and also helpful, on my trek bike, 9 months after purchase, the bearings are clicking. I have no faith in shop, so i will remove and clean myself. Thanks for taking the time to put this presentation together.
did cleaning fix the clicking? or did you have to replace BB, thanks
Used this on the weekend to get my crank set apart. Great guide, thank you so much!
Best DIY tutorial ever.
This was very helpful, thank you! I didn't remember how exactly the dub release mechanism worked and this made me safe to do my work. :)
Exactly what I was looking for and great demonstration. Thank you so much!
Thanks. Dub is much different from the Shimano I’ve always used. 😊😊
Well going to make a attempt today or tomorrow you made it very simple glad it’s the same regardless if it X01 or GX
A big Thank You from Morocco brother. Very helpful
Always clear, informative and effective.
Thanks again👏
I'm new to all this Sram kit, all seems a bit complicated after Shimano but this explains the process well. Thanks
Hey, it's THIS guy! Searched NX BB removal and this was the first result. I first saw Free to Cycle in his post-crash incident video. I came here after a friend was hit similarly. Mega OUCH!
Anyway, anyone else here come across a REALLY tight NX crank bolt? The Scott Spark is 2 years old, stored indoors and not ridden in inclement weather. I USUALLY pull apart a new bike bought at the LBS and re-build it with proper lube, spoke tensioning, radial & lateral truing to higher spec, etc. But I didn't get around to doing this bike, so I have no idea of the original condition of the crank bolt. Most certainly in there with the factory grease - if any.
But wow, that 8mm aluminum bolt would NOT release! Attempted removal with my normal 8mm allen wrench. Wouldn't budge. So I took the Milwaukee 12V Fuel impact wrench, setting 2 to it. NOPE! So I gave setting 3 a try and not a chance! Dang! But I stopped short before doing any impact damage to the Al bolt.
So I put the bike on its right side, inserted the 8mm allen wrench to plug the bolt hole (with some electrical tape to seal) and filled the bottom of the BB axle/spindle with PB Blaster penetrating oil. Let it sit for THREE days!
Went at it again with the wrenches & impact and it still wouldn't budge. So I left it for a few weeks so the wife could ride it in the interim. Oh and I picked up a replacement 8mm SRAM bolt at the IBD, knowing I was gonna destroy the OEM bolt in the removal process...
Just went back at it half an hour ago. I torqued it so hard I twisted my drill-to-3/8" socket attachment! (Not torque rated, but it had lasted over 10 years of mostly drill use.)
That didn't release it either. So before breaking out the Dremel with cutting wheel, I secured the crank arm in place and slid my breaker bar over the 8mm wrench and gave it one last try.
"SQUEEEEK-BAM!" It finally let go! Thank god. But boy are the 8mm "flats" inside the bolt done! Glad I have the spare ready to go.
So I'm curious if this bolt/spindle combination is prone to seizing up. Will use ample Mobil One synthetic waterproof grease on everything during reassembly. Might add some anti-seize to the thread grease while I'm at it.
So the cranks are off, but now I see it's a press-fit BB of some sort. Dammit! Don't want to trash the bearings removing it. So I figured I'd get some tips before doing something I'd regret! I'm doing this all to just install a damn dropper post the wife has been lacking these two + years now. Sheesh!
Darn, this is a threaded BB.... off to another video to see how the press fit removal is recommended. Thanks anyway!
ua-cam.com/video/eyIsmAeU96E/v-deo.html
Thanks a million. Did my crankset swap at home thanks to you.
Absolutely excellent presentation! Thank you.
P.S. Now I can really decide if I want to go to the trouble of going from 30t to try out 28t. :)
Great video! Clear, concise and informative. Thank you.
Invaluable advice brilliant video
Getting this crankset on a new boik, thanks for the tutorial
Love your videos. Thanks for helping us out!
Great instructional video! My bike mech was trying to remove my BB and couldn't budge it. My GT is brand new and there's awful creaking noises coming from the BB, so I want to look at the condition/grease on it. Thank you so much! Bob in Japan
Thank you for taking the time to make this, very helpful.
Very helpful, THANK YOU! If not for your warning about the tight 8mm around 1:25, I probably would have chickened-out and taken my bike in to the shop. Great video!
Wrench Breaker Extension Bar, what sort of bar is he using ? i have this long 8mm allen key and i can't get it off using that, it is so seized in may be as well from riding.
@@robinbreeds9217 I'm sure you probably have sorted this, but he's using a standard 1/2" drive breaker bar, with a 3/8” adapter into an 8mm hex drive bit. I had to go buy the adapter and drive bit this weekend to do this task when it became apparent the standard 8mm Allen key wasn't going to cut it at all
@@ipaterson Thank you yes i got a Power Breaker Bar 30, and Hex socket 8mm H8 M8 1/2" Drive Allen Key Single socket Hex Key 55mm Length.
Beautifully done! I have a new XO1 12 speed Eagle, and when I reach 1 yr. of age or less for the bike, I'll take this off just to regrease it and clean it up. Thanks for a great video!
Awesome! I need to do service, clean and reinstall sram bb nx 1x12, now i know the steps :-D thank YOU
Great video cheers m8..new to DUB, so it helped 🤟
An instant thumb up on your video...
Your videos are so good! Huge thanks
Thank you, very helpful!
Excellent vid, exactly what I needed. Thanks.
Straight to the point..
Best video I have found so far. Thanks!
Clear and concise. Thanks.
Great job! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for video. Just what I needed.
Thanks. Great instructions.
To remove the 50nm crank, i had just a regular 8mm hex, 20cm long, what i did was i left chain on, for tension on crank pedals. Then to the drive side, ive sat with my groin on the pedal arm, and i pushed the 8mm down, away from me, while doing a little rodeo ride on the pedal. It worked
Awesome video, thank you!
Thank you for this video! So helpfull ❤
Right to the point with valuable information, genius.
Great video! Thank you!
Merci bcp frérot tu m’a sauvé
Great video man!!!
Great tutorial. Thanks!
Excellent video
Very nice clear video 👍🏽👍🏽
very clear video thnx, love your accent btw
Great video! Very detailed and easy to follow. Thank you!!!!
Thanks for this video! Used it as a reference to work on my Ibis Ripmo v1.
Thank You so much for the video. I have a brand new bike I bought from a dealer a month ago, 3 hrs drive away and I want to change the SRAM Chainset to one with a Power Meter. AM FC ASSY XX1 EAGLE DUB 8B, CRING X-SYNC EAGLE 32T 104, AM PM SPIDER AXS DZERO XX1 BOOST and although I have ordered the BB AM BB DUB BSA 68/73 ROADMTB,73 ROAD WIDE I think I have the same one already and will hang on to it as a spare. I'll only find out when I actually remove it.
Awesome video, so useful, Could you post a list of tools?
Brilliant - pedals very stiff on my Whyte 905 and had been trying to book it in for repairs for a while but due to these difficult times the shops are either closed or have long waiting lists. Decided to do it myself, first time for work at what I would normally have regarded as a proffesional job. This video is great taking you through and clearly explaining every step and the bike being worked on had exactly the same set-up including spacers etc as mine, as I said Brilliant!
Glad it helped you out!!
Great vid!
Great video, thanks for your help 👍
Very useful tutorial mate. Thank you
👌👍🏿 excellent instructional video, Thank you
Excellent, thank you!
Very useful. Thank you
That was reall helpful, thanks mate and happy cycling!:-D
Good video. Thank you!
Very helpful thanks 👍
Wow! Amazing my adjuster broke out on a DH section assuming a rock hit it n broke it so it was a walk back toe the motor! Was apprehensive on doing this stuff as kts all new n a carbon frame. Im waiting for the preload adjuster to arrive n may as well invest in a new Bb 👊🏻
Thanks very usefull video ❤
Very good and helpfull video, thanks a lot !
Great video - thanks
Thanks you Mr...
Always well detailed. Thx.
Great video - chainset needs a lot of force - no way with an allen key!
54 Nm...I'm always a puss when reefing on bike parts. Good vid!
The 54 Nm seams a little ridiculous to me. Good grief, it's a bicycle!
Great vid
Outstanding. Nice job! Anti-Clockwise? It's Counter-Clockwise this side of the pond. :)
Thanks for the thorough video! I was able to get the 8mm bolt off with a breaker bar and the thin washer. Afterwards I'm still unable to pull my drive side crank arm off. I've pulled and pulled and it isn't moving though the bolt isn't there and nothing obvious is there to hold it on. Any ideas how to get that drive side arm to pull off?
Great video.. Thank you..
Appreciate the video.
thank you for your help!!!!!
Perfect that! 👍🏻
Excellent video , very informative . Would you mind posting a link to the tool / attachment you used to actually get the BB off . Thanks in advance
Outstanding! Probably one of the best how-to videos I have seen in awhile. The official video for this setup calls for a BB press. Why is that? I noticed you did not need one at all. Thanks in advance.
The BB was threaded in and not a Pressfit one!
Good video cheers
Make sure the self-extracting cap (the bit with the Dub logo on) is still on the bike. Mine wasn’t on (must have rattled out) and the cranks wouldn’t self-extract when loosening the bolt.
Got a replacement ordered off eBay for £15
What tool do you need to reinstall it? Because of the 4 weird holes.
Thanks man
On thing they don't tell you in all these videos is that you may have to use a crank-puller in order to get the pedal arm off. I have to use it every time for my new Trek bike.
Lars Gustafsson I’d humbly suggest that you might not have enough grease on it, if you need a gear puller to remove a crank arm!
if you leave the lock nut on then the non drive crank self extracts, then just use a mallet to whack the other one out
Awesome vid. I work in the industry but am not a mechanic, so I needed a refresher to DIY my DUB BB and address a slight creak.
Btw, interesting accent, where are you from?
Wow, this is exactly what i was looking for: now i know that i must use an immense amount of force. Correct?
I can’t get mine to unloosen
@@bikingwithryan5968 I haven't even succeeded yet. 😡
@@salvatopo same here 😂the stupid thing is tight af
Thanks!