Nice work, that laser is pretty rad. When I did rebuilt my shifter I went with the upgraded Marlin Crawler shifter seat and socket cap. It definitely removed a lot of slop in the shifter.
Beware if you have a G series trans...There is a drip tray for fifth gear just under the shifter and it will fill with oil and takes time to drain so if your waiting for the oil to come out the fill hole in side of trans to see if the trans is full, you will over fill the trans because the tray will hold oil and not drain....I found out the hard way...add what the book says and wait a day and recheck for full....But your 88 most likely has a W trans and is not a problem...Fuel injection, W trans...Carb G trans
This whole series has had me thinking/dreaming about my project 97 ford courier. (Rebaged Mazda B-series) Unfortunately years of gravel road use, due to it being the town car while it lived on the farm.... had caused sand/dust to enter through the old cover and made a grinding paste which significantly wore out the gear lever ball and most likely the socket part that it goes into, as well. I got a replacement cover from China (weirdly enough) and it was of better quality (thicker) than the original. I'm annoyed they didn't have more similar parts for it. So there is still a bit of play, but it's a lot better after relpacing the teflon bushes and gaskets. I can't get replacements (lever and mechnism), and the truck is on the uncommon side, especially being a diesel, so it makes getting parts, especially genuine from ford/ mazda interesting. Though the engine soldiered on until circa 2011, so that is still supported, but it is also a oddball. 4:11 Oh, I had a similar encounter with the gear lever when trying to get the new gasket on. Glued it back together with something. The lever also had a little hole in it. We just welded a grease fitting on it and sent it, then it popped off. 😂 (in a hilarious way) Hello from South Africa
We had a Mazda-based Ford Courier in the US in the 1970's & early 80's, but it was replaced by the "Ranger" in 1983. Mazda sold a B-Series truck in North America during the 90's and 2000's, which was really just a rebadged Ranger with different headlights/grill. Eventually Ford killed the Ranger in 2011 and the Mazda disappeared with it. They were good little trucks. From about 1985 to 1994 the US got a true Mazda B-series (not a rebadged ford) and they were excellent reliable trucks. They're a rare sight nowadays here because many rusted away.
When you have to replace a rubber, shaped gasket. You can use Rubber Dip and some fabric, just need to make a mold. I fixed my choke up vacuum diaphragm for my Weber carb and its still working...Also a set of Harbor freight hole punchs.$10, for the bolt holes makes your gaskets clean.....I never use grease for install, it can effect the rubber down the road...Spit works just as good and dries up....AND that laser is still cheating to all of us without one...LOL On the road in just 2 more weeks????
That really sucks... The only 3.0 I've ever owned was in a very rusty 1989 4x4 and I ended up parting it out and giving the engine to Mikey. We pulled the motor and it wasn't too bad to work on then, but trying to work on it in the engine bay would have been a horrible day. You definitely have to dig down a little further to replace the pump compared to a 22R/RE. I'd attempt to do it yourself if you have the time and tools. Not a fun job but $1400 is crazy!
@@6thGearGarage thanks for the reply I've got this exact truck and I recently changed the transmission fluid like 5,000 miles ago and I was unaware that I had to use gl4 so I'm going to go ahead and change it again. Thanks for the great videos.
@@KaydenRogers-co4qx The diff and steering box also call for GL-4, but I read that it's ok to substitute GL-5 in those, so I did. The GL-4 is supposed to be safer for any brass parts, which I'm unsure if there's any brass in the tranny or not.... but I don't want to find out the hard way and damage a 44 yr old transmission. rymax-lubricants.com/updates/the-differences-between-gl-4-and-gl-5#:~:text=This%20can%20be%20disastrous%20for,but%20are%20without%20shock%20loading.
I had about 20+ mins of video but by the time I cut it all down and removed the slow/boring parts, it was under 10 min. I'd rather share an action packed 10 min video than a 20 min video that viewers get bored with. I do upload some long videos, but only when there is enough good content. I don't want to drag you guys along unless it's worth it, ya know?
2:05 Is it not symmetrical that gasket so you could flip it to the other side upside down and draw from there? But sure it is fine that way too that you did! Your 1980 is building greatly! Greetings from Finland! Driving 1990 Hilux 2WD Xtracab! 😄
Another great installment on this series! Cant wait to see you make it vroom vroom down the road... getting this close🤌 p.s. that was a good looking tom, he looked healthy
Yeah I looked and nobody made them. I ordered one from rock auto but it was wrong. Honestly, I don't mind making my own. For $11, I got 4 different sheets of gasket material to work with.
That laser never gets old watching it make parts shine and new.
3M Scotch-Weld PR40 is amazing for gluing rubber. If you want to repair your shift boot. For the price... it better be amazing.
Great to know... I'd like to repair that boot. Thanks!
Nice work, that laser is pretty rad. When I did rebuilt my shifter I went with the upgraded Marlin Crawler shifter seat and socket cap. It definitely removed a lot of slop in the shifter.
I was surprised how tight this one still was after years of all that dirt inside.
Love the videos how u slowly restore full truck.
Thanks 👍
Thanks for the tip on gear oil. Getting ready to do that in my 88
Beware if you have a G series trans...There is a drip tray for fifth gear just under the shifter and it will fill with oil and takes time to drain so if your waiting for the oil to come out the fill hole in side of trans to see if the trans is full, you will over fill the trans because the tray will hold oil and not drain....I found out the hard way...add what the book says and wait a day and recheck for full....But your 88 most likely has a W trans and is not a problem...Fuel injection, W trans...Carb G trans
@@drewfleming7065 Thank you! My has a W56.
I'd double check the service manual for your 88 to be sure what kind of fluid that W56 calls for. It's a few years newer than this old steel case W50.
This whole series has had me thinking/dreaming about my project 97 ford courier. (Rebaged Mazda B-series)
Unfortunately years of gravel road use, due to it being the town car while it lived on the farm.... had caused sand/dust to enter through the old cover and made a grinding paste which significantly wore out the gear lever ball and most likely the socket part that it goes into, as well.
I got a replacement cover from China (weirdly enough) and it was of better quality (thicker) than the original.
I'm annoyed they didn't have more similar parts for it.
So there is still a bit of play, but it's a lot better after relpacing the teflon bushes and gaskets.
I can't get replacements (lever and mechnism), and the truck is on the uncommon side, especially being a diesel, so it makes getting parts, especially genuine from ford/ mazda interesting.
Though the engine soldiered on until circa 2011, so that is still supported, but it is also a oddball.
4:11 Oh, I had a similar encounter with the gear lever when trying to get the new gasket on. Glued it back together with something. The lever also had a little hole in it. We just welded a grease fitting on it and sent it, then it popped off. 😂 (in a hilarious way)
Hello from South Africa
We had a Mazda-based Ford Courier in the US in the 1970's & early 80's, but it was replaced by the "Ranger" in 1983. Mazda sold a B-Series truck in North America during the 90's and 2000's, which was really just a rebadged Ranger with different headlights/grill. Eventually Ford killed the Ranger in 2011 and the Mazda disappeared with it. They were good little trucks. From about 1985 to 1994 the US got a true Mazda B-series (not a rebadged ford) and they were excellent reliable trucks. They're a rare sight nowadays here because many rusted away.
When you have to replace a rubber, shaped gasket. You can use Rubber Dip and some fabric, just need to make a mold. I fixed my choke up vacuum diaphragm for my Weber carb and its still working...Also a set of Harbor freight hole punchs.$10, for the bolt holes makes your gaskets clean.....I never use grease for install, it can effect the rubber down the road...Spit works just as good and dries up....AND that laser is still cheating to all of us without one...LOL On the road in just 2 more weeks????
2 more weeks would be ideal! I still need to figure out the exhaust, alignment, and a lot of other small bits.
for gasket do u try aftermaket
You can benefit from having some parts custom-made in industrial 3D printers. There are professional companies for that.
Absolutely! In the near future, obsolete parts will no longer be an issue.
You didn't just rotate the gasket 180??
oh yeah, I see what you mean... that would have worked as well!
I gotta vent a little bit. Water pump went out on my 3.0 v6. Shop is quoting me $1400.....ouch. I call it the reality check repair
That really sucks... The only 3.0 I've ever owned was in a very rusty 1989 4x4 and I ended up parting it out and giving the engine to Mikey. We pulled the motor and it wasn't too bad to work on then, but trying to work on it in the engine bay would have been a horrible day. You definitely have to dig down a little further to replace the pump compared to a 22R/RE. I'd attempt to do it yourself if you have the time and tools. Not a fun job but $1400 is crazy!
@@6thGearGarage Remove the rad for more room, can be done under hood...$1400 is a rip off...Try other shops...
Why does the gear oil have to be GL-4
Because TOYOTA says so...Always listen to Toyota...
GL-4 was specified in the service manual, so I played it safe. Not sure if that's just a W50 thing, or if it applies to other transmissions as well.
@@6thGearGarage thanks for the reply I've got this exact truck and I recently changed the transmission fluid like 5,000 miles ago and I was unaware that I had to use gl4 so I'm going to go ahead and change it again. Thanks for the great videos.
@@KaydenRogers-co4qx The diff and steering box also call for GL-4, but I read that it's ok to substitute GL-5 in those, so I did. The GL-4 is supposed to be safer for any brass parts, which I'm unsure if there's any brass in the tranny or not.... but I don't want to find out the hard way and damage a 44 yr old transmission. rymax-lubricants.com/updates/the-differences-between-gl-4-and-gl-5#:~:text=This%20can%20be%20disastrous%20for,but%20are%20without%20shock%20loading.
Sorry really don't want to be that guy but how about making your post longer please ?
UA-cam stats say 10 to 30 minute videos get the most views....
I had about 20+ mins of video but by the time I cut it all down and removed the slow/boring parts, it was under 10 min. I'd rather share an action packed 10 min video than a 20 min video that viewers get bored with. I do upload some long videos, but only when there is enough good content. I don't want to drag you guys along unless it's worth it, ya know?
👍👍👍👍👍🫵🪨
2:05 Is it not symmetrical that gasket so you could flip it to the other side upside down and draw from there? But sure it is fine that way too that you did! Your 1980 is building greatly! Greetings from Finland! Driving 1990 Hilux 2WD Xtracab! 😄
oh yeah, I see what you mean... that would have worked as well!
Another great installment on this series! Cant wait to see you make it vroom vroom down the road... getting this close🤌 p.s. that was a good looking tom, he looked healthy
Yeah I looked and nobody made them. I ordered one from rock auto but it was wrong. Honestly, I don't mind making my own. For $11, I got 4 different sheets of gasket material to work with.