Great video Tom! Geez, do you collect DC power packs? Your home is like a museum. “This one here I got from an ancient Egyptian tomb. Used to run a train around the pyramid until the big sandstorm of 1870. It was lost for several hundred years. Still works!” -Mark
Well, I've been around a while, and every time I see one at a thrift store that's in fairly good condition, I just can't resist buying it. I wish I still had the one from my very first American Flyer HO train set. My older sister latched on to all my model railroad equipment when I went into the Air Force in the early 70's. I guess they thought I wasn't coming back. Fooled them!
Hey Tom, I use the 1300 railpower, and I power my GML throttle it use the large headphone jacks so I can walk around the layout, it works ok for now, thanks for sharing
@@TomsTrainsandThings question, why one locomotive, runs slow one runs with good speed. on same track not at the same time though. ? advise please thanks.
good vid... i'm seriously considering reverting back to old DC... much cheaper and way less headaches... a lot of "modern" model railroading is just way too techy and expensive... i'm willing to give up sound for just running trains headache free
HEY!!! I’ve been running many locos at a time and engine layout track power is hooked up to a MRC 1370, every now and then it’ll presumably kick out and turn itself off. IM NOW looking at a MRC 1500 DUEL CONTROLLER, would that be an upgrade!??? (I have two separate loops)
Hello I recently purchased the above power supply. I run DC but wish to run two engines at the same time. My question is this: I connected my common wires (4) to cab#2 & the other wires (4) to cab 1. When I turned on power on, the engine stood still, but both lights on the transformer were illuminated. Thank you.
@@TomsTrainsandThings hi I have no power of either cab (of a MRC Tech7) but I have power from the accessories out put. I also have a single track with a wire that is connected to my common track ( outside rail). This is really frustrating to me. I don't know how to send you a diagram. Can you email me about some suggestions?
@@TomsTrainsandThings um Here, the single wire that is on a track is connected to an Atlas selector. I will look at my email soon. Thank you for replying.
Hello. I purchased a MRC Tech 4 260 for my HO scale layout. I’m aware that HO train should be running at around 12 volt while this controller outputs 23 volt DC, I heard people said this voltage is designed for O or G scale, but MRC says it’s ok for all scales. Is this safe for my HO layout? Will I risk burning out my locomotives with this much voltage output? Please advise.
HO scale trains usually start moving just short of 12 v with the max at 18 to 20 v. The rating is the maximum on the terminal and is adjusted with the throttle
This video is 3 years old, and that power pack came with a set that was purchased nearly 10 years ago. So yes, Bachman most likely upgraded the power pack since then.
Very helpful and well out together videos! Just starting out with this hobby. I have an old bachmann trainset (with ez track) from the 90s, and picked up an older used athearn and atlas engine (prob from 70s or 80s). I also just picked up antique Fleischmann #500 TR50 Transformator for the heck of it. Any tips/advice/things I should be mindful of with using an old transformer like that one with those engines and ez track? Thanks!
Question about using two power supplies on a DC layout with blocks! If I'm connecting both supplies to a common rail, is it ok if they're different voltages? One is 17VA and the other is 20VA.
Your confusing volts with volt/ampere. Volt/ampere (VA) is a measure of apparent power such as watts. 1 VA = 1 W. Usually stated as a rating to compare , in this case, your power supply's total wattage Your power supply feeding the track is a variable voltage which starts out low 0vdc to approx 18vdc at full throttle, this controls the speed of the loco
@@TomsTrainsandThings thanks for clarifying that about VA. To follow up, my two power supplies are listed as 14VDC and 23VDC (a tech 2 2400 and tech 4 260). Is it ok to connect the outputs together to a common rail for block operation even if their voltages are different?
I have a hobby transformer 6607 is it safe for newer locomotives? And I replaced the wires with The wires from Lionel trains starter set transformer will that break the locomotives?
Hello there Tom. I have a problem. with power . I have 4 starter HO sets from Athens. And a steamer from PARAGON 3 ROLLING THUNDER BROADWAY LID IMPORTS and the power supply that comes with the starter set is ATHEARN IRON HORSE . THE power supply is DC . ( input , 120 v ac 60 Hz 125 mA , OUT PUT is 19 v ac , 0-16v DC. total output 7va . ) my track is EZ track and I have over 100 feet in total . All my engines lights flicker and they stop dead , and slow down and speed up . The steamer 2-4-2 CN runs only at full speed pulling 25 cars . iv cleaned all the track with 100 rubbing alcohol and no change . I run the BNSF with a CN . Do I need 12 gage wire and a better power supply. I only have the small wire from the power supply to one piece of track . P.S I love your videos keep up the great work.
Power supplies from starter sets are enough for one locomotive. You may need to drop a few more feeders with that length of track with awg 14 wire. A new power source is a must.
Tom, this is gonna sound strange. Perhaps even silly. But i was thinking of the following: A laptop power supply can handle 19 volts. And i was thinking of converting it to a dc throttle some way or another. What, if any, is your opinion on diy controllers? And, this is gonna sound stupid, but what is the maximum voltage a normal HO locomotive can handle? 15 volts, roughly?
Laptop power supplies are used extensively in model railroading. You'll have to search for videos on how to regulate the voltage for your throttle. Most DC power supplies range from 18 to 20v max
thank you very much for the reply. Then i can make em myself in stead of having to buy em. I got plenty of old laptop power supplies. I also have 3 or 4 very old desktops, pentium 1 or maybe 2. @@TomsTrainsandThings
Hi, Tom's Trains. I like your show I have a question about how I can make the Atlas snap turnout switch code 100 model no 180 to be a DCC FRIENDLY. Please advise me. AALWABIL
Well this just saved me a bunch of money,, thanks for the info! I do have a question: How many N scale locomotives can be run on the same train using a MRC ampac 760 single throttle? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Aswell,,if I hooked this power pack up to a loop of about 60 feet of N scale track do you think it would power it? Once again,,any thoughts on this are appreciated.
I have a floor layout in my bed room and i use a Bachmann trains power pack and its only good for one locomotive sometimes if your running 2 locomotives at the same time the power pack cuts out . What power pack sould i get?
I am a beginner. Going to make a 4x8 layout. Want to run 2 trains on separate tracks.. How much power is good for each train? P.S. HO scale. Can you suggest something good for my purpose. I also want constant D.C and A.C.
I had a quick question, I hope you could help with! The power 1300 is plugged in but there’s no light that turns on. Is this normal? or does it mean that it isn’t working and I need a new one? Just gifted to my son. So I’m new to this train life. Any help would be appreciated.
Not too familiar with that model, but the only way to know for sure is hook it up to see if the train runs. There is a circuit protector on the unit in case of overload, this may be the indicator light you have a question about. It flashes if there is a problem.
@@TomsTrainsandThings thank for your response. So just to clarify, maybe it’s a good thing if the lights not flashing or on, is that correct? I did notice the wires were frayed. So there is no “u” metal shape connector also to connect to both the power box and the track. Sort of have to tuck the wires in under the screws of both connections. Maybe this is also a bad idea?
the thing with DCC base station is the power control circuit have a certain rating, supplying more available power may smooth bumps, but you can't exceed the rating, and most DCC stations will shut down when exceeded . The jump command was a way for you to get additional cab control on a system
probably but the zephyr has a 3 amp supply, unlike all the other starter sets. Just be sure to go to the site about which works with what. me if i need more juice i would piggyback another zephyr, it is in the manual
this video is well-intentioned but you never get to the heart of the matter which is how much power / volts / watts does a beginner want for how much track.
@@TomsTrainsandThings Thank you so much for the kind reply, I really appreciate it and I appreciate your channel. I am re-entering the hobby of behalf of my daughter. I consider myself fairly technically inclined / good at electronics - but I am struggling to find answers to some basic questions like watts versus resistance / length of track. I am looking to make a large track that goes around an 8 x 10 living room carpet.
I have 1950s O and 1970s HO scale set. What power supply do I use. I just bought a autopulse momentum 1 transformer. Will it work on both sets? Are you familiar with this transformer?
Gary, the transformer you bought will work on your HO set. I'm not familiar with it but looked up the specs on it. The power available is less than the typical power pack available today. It's only 12VA where most others are 16 to 20 VA. But It will still work. As far as the O scale set, you will need an AC power supply.
Great video Tom! Geez, do you collect DC power packs? Your home is like a museum. “This one here I got from an ancient Egyptian tomb. Used to run a train around the pyramid until the big sandstorm of 1870. It was lost for several hundred years. Still works!” -Mark
Well, I've been around a while, and every time I see one at a thrift store that's in fairly good condition, I just can't resist buying it. I wish I still had the one from my very first American Flyer HO train set. My older sister latched on to all my model railroad equipment when I went into the Air Force in the early 70's. I guess they thought I wasn't coming back. Fooled them!
I remember having the tyco brand. I also had some darker blue of some sort with the knob somewhere off tot he side.
Thanks for some old school help. I'm working on the K.I.S.S railroad. This fits the bill!
Simple is the best way to do it!
Great video! I just use both dc and dcc, if I wanted to upgrade everyone of my locos to dcc it would cost me over 3K...
Yes, DCC does get very expensive.
noooo, really?
Danggg
Hey Tom, I use the 1300 railpower, and I power my GML throttle it use the large headphone jacks so I can walk around the layout, it works ok for now, thanks for sharing
That's the way to do it, Randy
Very informative! I'm just starting out and thinking about using DCC. Keep up the good work!
Thank you John
check out Tom's videos on it
you are the best to explain in detail, thanks a million. 👍👍
Glad it was helpful!
@@TomsTrainsandThings
question, why one locomotive, runs slow one runs with good speed. on same track not at the same time though. ? advise please thanks.
good vid... i'm seriously considering reverting back to old DC... much cheaper and way less headaches... a lot of "modern" model railroading is just way too techy and expensive... i'm willing to give up sound for just running trains headache free
Have you tried DCC++ or DCCEX?
@@TomsTrainsandThings i'll look into that
HEY!!! I’ve been running many locos at a time and engine layout track power is hooked up to a MRC 1370, every now and then it’ll presumably kick out and turn itself off. IM NOW looking at a MRC 1500 DUEL CONTROLLER, would that be an upgrade!??? (I have two separate loops)
Great job Tom
Thank you Debbie
Hello I recently purchased the above power supply. I run DC but wish to run two engines at the same time. My question is this: I connected my common wires (4) to cab#2 & the other wires (4) to cab 1. When I turned on power on, the engine stood still, but both lights on the transformer were illuminated. Thank you.
Send me an email with a diagram of how you hooked it up
@@TomsTrainsandThings hi I have no power of either cab (of a MRC Tech7) but I have power from the accessories out put. I also have a single track with a wire that is connected to my common track ( outside rail). This is really frustrating to me. I don't know how to send you a diagram. Can you email me about some suggestions?
@@kevinpurcell2093 take a few photos of how it is hooked up and email them to me.
@@TomsTrainsandThings um Here, the single wire that is on a track is connected to an Atlas selector. I will look at my email soon. Thank you for replying.
The best is kato.. It feels really nice
If it feels nice, goo for it!
Hello. I purchased a MRC Tech 4 260 for my HO scale layout. I’m aware that HO train should be running at around 12 volt while this controller outputs 23 volt DC, I heard people said this voltage is designed for O or G scale, but MRC says it’s ok for all scales. Is this safe for my HO layout? Will I risk burning out my locomotives with this much voltage output? Please advise.
HO scale trains usually start moving just short of 12 v with the max at 18 to 20 v. The rating is the maximum on the terminal and is adjusted with the throttle
I did not get that power pack with my Bachmann Train set
This video is 3 years old, and that power pack came with a set that was purchased nearly 10 years ago. So yes, Bachman most likely upgraded the power pack since then.
Very helpful and well out together videos! Just starting out with this hobby. I have an old bachmann trainset (with ez track) from the 90s, and picked up an older used athearn and atlas engine (prob from 70s or 80s). I also just picked up antique Fleischmann #500 TR50 Transformator for the heck of it. Any tips/advice/things I should be mindful of with using an old transformer like that one with those engines and ez track? Thanks!
Check to make sure you have sufficient voltage output. I have used old transformers from sets I purchased in the 70's
Question about using two power supplies on a DC layout with blocks! If I'm connecting both supplies to a common rail, is it ok if they're different voltages? One is 17VA and the other is 20VA.
Your confusing volts with volt/ampere. Volt/ampere (VA) is a measure of apparent power such as watts. 1 VA = 1 W. Usually stated as a rating to compare , in this case, your power supply's total wattage
Your power supply feeding the track is a variable voltage which starts out low 0vdc to approx 18vdc at full throttle, this controls the speed of the loco
@@TomsTrainsandThings thanks for clarifying that about VA. To follow up, my two power supplies are listed as 14VDC and 23VDC (a tech 2 2400 and tech 4 260). Is it ok to connect the outputs together to a common rail for block operation even if their voltages are different?
Yes. That's the max voltage.
I have a hobby transformer 6607 is it safe for newer locomotives? And I replaced the wires with The wires from Lionel trains starter set transformer will that break the locomotives?
As long as it's outputting the desired voltage you should be alright
Hello there Tom. I have a problem. with power . I have 4 starter HO sets from Athens. And a steamer from PARAGON 3 ROLLING THUNDER BROADWAY LID IMPORTS and the power supply that comes with the starter set is ATHEARN IRON HORSE . THE power supply is DC . ( input , 120 v ac 60 Hz 125 mA , OUT PUT is 19 v ac , 0-16v DC. total output 7va . ) my track is EZ track and I have over 100 feet in total . All my engines lights flicker and they stop dead , and slow down and speed up . The steamer 2-4-2 CN runs only at full speed pulling 25 cars . iv cleaned all the track with 100 rubbing alcohol and no change . I run the BNSF with a CN . Do I need 12 gage wire and a better power supply. I only have the small wire from the power supply to one piece of track . P.S I love your videos keep up the great work.
Power supplies from starter sets are enough for one locomotive. You may need to drop a few more feeders with that length of track with awg 14 wire. A new power source is a must.
Tom, this is gonna sound strange. Perhaps even silly.
But i was thinking of the following:
A laptop power supply can handle 19 volts. And i was thinking of converting it to a dc throttle some way or another.
What, if any, is your opinion on diy controllers?
And, this is gonna sound stupid, but what is the maximum voltage a normal HO locomotive can handle?
15 volts, roughly?
Laptop power supplies are used extensively in model railroading. You'll have to search for videos on how to regulate the voltage for your throttle. Most DC power supplies range from 18 to 20v max
thank you very much for the reply. Then i can make em myself in stead of having to buy em. I got plenty of old laptop power supplies. I also have 3 or 4 very old desktops, pentium 1 or maybe 2.
@@TomsTrainsandThings
Hi, Tom's Trains. I like your show I have a question about how I can make the Atlas snap turnout switch code 100 model no 180 to be a DCC FRIENDLY. Please advise me. AALWABIL
DCC Friendly is a marketing term. All turnouts can be used with DCC. Some just have plastic frogs like the older Atlas
Thanks for your understanding my matter.
2:35 what does fixed DC do?
It's a constant DC output if you have anything that require a DC voltage.
Well this just saved me a bunch of money,, thanks for the info! I do have a question: How many N scale locomotives can be run on the same train using a MRC ampac 760 single throttle? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Aswell,,if I hooked this power pack up to a loop of about 60 feet of N scale track do you think it would power it? Once again,,any thoughts on this are appreciated.
You can run more than 1 but that doesn't mean they will run at the same speed.
If you space some track feeders on your rai.l.
@@TomsTrainsandThings thank you for the help,,I'm going to give it a try.
What would be a good controller for running 2 trains on a moderate size layout?
Your best bet is a ps from MRC. You can use the duel throttle one if you have your DC layout divided into blocks.
I have a floor layout in my bed room and i use a Bachmann trains power pack and its only good for one locomotive sometimes if your running 2 locomotives at the same time the power pack cuts out . What power pack sould i get?
Try the MRC Tech 2. Those starter power packs are not very good.
@@TomsTrainsandThings thanks
Sir how to use that I’m a beginner that staff for what?
Don't understand your question.
I am a beginner. Going to make a 4x8 layout. Want to run 2 trains on separate tracks.. How much power is good for each train? P.S. HO scale. Can you suggest something good for my purpose. I also want constant D.C and A.C.
The MRC throttle that I showed is a good place to start
I had a quick question, I hope you could help with!
The power 1300 is plugged in but there’s no light that turns on. Is this normal? or does it mean that it isn’t working and I need a new one? Just gifted to my son. So I’m new to this train life. Any help would be appreciated.
Not too familiar with that model, but the only way to know for sure is hook it up to see if the train runs. There is a circuit protector on the unit in case of overload, this may be the indicator light you have a question about. It flashes if there is a problem.
@@TomsTrainsandThings thank for your response. So just to clarify, maybe it’s a good thing if the lights not flashing or on, is that correct? I did notice the wires were frayed. So there is no “u” metal shape connector also to connect to both the power box and the track. Sort of have to tuck the wires in under the screws of both connections. Maybe this is also a bad idea?
Hi Tom! When using dcc with a dc thotlle as a jump, does it also add to total amp output?
The jump feature on the Zephyr is for additional throttles and I don't think it uses any of the available power on the DC power pack.
the thing with DCC base station is the power control circuit have a certain rating, supplying more available power may smooth bumps, but you can't exceed the rating, and most DCC stations will shut down when exceeded .
The jump command was a way for you to get additional cab control on a system
Toms Trains and Things, thanks for the reply!
billfusionenterprise, thanks, I take it a digitrax booster might be needed then
probably but the zephyr has a 3 amp supply, unlike all the other starter sets. Just be sure to go to the site about which works with what. me if i need more juice i would piggyback another zephyr, it is in the manual
FYI, be careful of one MRC dual throttle power pack, it can not be used on a common ground wiring setup, I believe it was called ''dualpack''
Thanks for the input Bill
LOL, I have a box full of Tyco, and AHM transformers
They do accumulate, don't they!
this video is well-intentioned but you never get to the heart of the matter which is how much power / volts / watts does a beginner want for how much track.
For a beginner, any of these power packs will be sufficient.
@@TomsTrainsandThings Thank you so much for the kind reply, I really appreciate it and I appreciate your channel. I am re-entering the hobby of behalf of my daughter. I consider myself fairly technically inclined / good at electronics - but I am struggling to find answers to some basic questions like watts versus resistance / length of track. I am looking to make a large track that goes around an 8 x 10 living room carpet.
3:20
I have 1950s O and 1970s HO scale set. What power supply do I use. I just bought a autopulse momentum 1 transformer. Will it work on both sets? Are you familiar with this transformer?
Gary, the transformer you bought will work on your HO set. I'm not familiar with it but looked up the specs on it. The power available is less than the typical power pack available today. It's only 12VA where most others are 16 to 20 VA. But It will still work.
As far as the O scale set, you will need an AC power supply.
@@TomsTrainsandThings I've been wading through a bunch of newbie vids and here in the old comments is the answer to my question. Thanks!
@@crowznest438 glad it was helpful
I bought 11 cars and 2 locomotives eBay and I got 13 broken things. Shameful people.
That's why I don't buy anything train related on ebay from private sellers.