Thanks for all your help Mark. I really appreciate it. Good luck with your move to DCC. That's a lot more videos for you to create in the future with your new adventure.
Hi Mark, The only thing I would add to your video is when putting a wire under a terminal screw, hook the wire so it goes with the tighting of the screw, ( on your water tower wires turn the hook the other way ) this pulls the wire in tighter when turning the screw, the way you had the wires it pushes the wires out from under the screw head, just a tip, that is kind of hard to explain with words.
5 Years later and this is still helpful. Knowing your audience is key to instruction, and many instruction videos assume the watcher is more familiar with the products. This really broke it down to the basics, thanks!
Tom that was a great colabroration with Mark. Great intro for beginners, I remember using the very same atlas products on my first layout back in my highschool days
You and your wife seem to have a great time!! That's wonderful. 😁 That was a very beginner video - and I mean that in the most positive way! GREAT intro to basic wiring, beyond the starter train set. I plan on sharing this one a lot! Murph
Hint: When connecting stranded wire leads to a terminal strip, "tin" the wires with solder first. Then make a hook to connect to the terminal strip. This gives a better connection and prevents "whiskers" between the screw heads. The best way is to crimp ring lugs (spade lugs can eventually slip out) to the wires, then land them to the terminal strip. Awesome video !!!
nice video, of back to the basics of model trains, A DC layout can get very complex if it grows and grows. Mark did a good job helping you out, he has a great channel. I really like his one video he did, lol, I will let others figure out which one that is. thanks for sharing guys.
Hey Sparky, Thanks for watching and chiming in. lol. A lot of modelers still start out with DC or us old modelers getting back in the hobby after snoozing for a while. Mark did a great job explaining how he did his layout.
Thanks John. I can't keep a straight face when she's right off camera snickering then busting out laughing. Mark did an excellent job with his explanation of wiring his layout. Two thumbs up.
Hey guys .... When putting in the isolators do I put them on the power or negitive side of the rails? The Atlas code 100 Mark V switches have to have an insolator so it wont short out so do I just put them all on one side?
I'm in an apartment so I can only do a 4x8 HO layout so it will be a single train layout with about 7 switches ... I'm wiring all the areas between each switch to the same leg so 1 controller will run the layout without turning on or off sections
Is it possible to make trains run with different speed on different blocks? Or do I need separate power source? Can having multiple sources cause short circuit when train closes the gap by its wheels?
@@TomsTrainsandThings So, when a train comes from one power source are to another, can it short-circuit those two independent segment by it's wheels? On real railroad, I know such things as phase gaps
@@GoshaBrooklyn Keep the polarity the same and make sure the direction is the same. Worst thAt could happen is the loco tries tpo continually change direction.
@@TomsTrainsandThings like a pendulum insode old fashion doorbell. In that case, loco would be called "pendolino", but real pendolino isn't running at place.
I am preparing to build my first ever model railroad layout, so I am completely new to all of this. I've searched for answers to these questions and cannot find it anywhere, as it seems nearly everything I find is aimed primarily towards DCC: > what happens if the locomotive you're controlling stops over the gap between two blocks, so pick-up wheels are straddling the plastic joiner on both sides (pick-up wheels are touching rail on both sides of gap) and 2 different controllers are connected to each block (cab A controls block 1 and cab B controls block 2)? I haven't purchased any locomotives or rolling stock yet, but are there not some locomotives which have multiple pick-up wheels, so it might be possible to accidentally straddle both blocks? > if you stop your locomotive just prior to the gap between 2 blocks and then switch the cab from controlling block 1 to controlling block 2 your locomotive would not function since you're now controlling the second block -- so the cab would need to be connected to both blocks until your locomotive completely exits the first block and enters the second (and then cab can be disconnected from that first block)? So if a person wishes to operate 2 locomotives there would need to be an empty block between occupied blocks...does the confusing manner I've described it sound like I have the basic idea correct? (I think I have confused myself trying to phrase it properly, and hope you understand what I'm asking). I realize that a lot of these 'issues' can be overcome by using DCC, but I refuse to pay the outrageous over-inflated prices being charged by model railroading companies for DCC equipment nowadays. Thank you for making these videos to help others learn to set-up a model railroad layout. Liked/subscribed.
You're overthinking this. Modelers have been doing this for over 60 years with their layouts and blocks. All you have to remember is keep all the blocks the same polarity and you will have no problems. All locomotives have multiple wheelsets that pick up the power, so even over a gap you will have one wheelset on one side and the other wheelset on the other side. Example, a diesel locomotive with two sets of two wheel trucks, even though one set may not pick up power, you have two wheels picking up the power from one truck. A very inexpensive solution to the high cost of DCC is DCC-EX, where you fit together a few electronic components yourself (no experience necessary) for about $80. If you want to get fancy you may spend $120. I have several videos on this subject also. You will still need locomotives equipped with a DCC decoder wich you can pick up for maybe $25 more than a straight DC locomotive. There are also DCC ready locomotives where all you have to do is add a decoder to a plug already installed inside the loco. You can run is on DC till you are ready for DCC. You can find out more about DCC-ex here: dcc-ex.com/index.html#
Question, I have an older ho life like GP 38 ho locomotive, it runs with no problem on regular atlas 83 code tracks, except the Atlas 83 code flex track, the wheel flanges touch the plastic spikes and it slows the locomotive and it causes derailment of the locomotive, it's the brass pick up wheels that rub, not the traction wheels, the rubber rings on the fractions wheels are intact. Is this normal?
I've seen this on a lot of older locomotives & rolling stock on code 83 track. It's a little hard to relieve ones your track is set in place on a curve, but I use a homemade sanding block that fits inside the rail and lightly remove some of the plastic that's causing the problem. Try not to take off too much, just enough so your wheels willl clear.
@@TomsTrainsandThings Thank you Tom, I may have to sell this locomotive. It runs real great untill it comes to a stretch of flex track, kinda sounds like it is going into dynamics LOL. I used to do maintenance work on the GP 38 we had at our coal mine, that's why I hate to see it go.
What if you prewired the track using the same "T" terminal but isolated both sides of the track, where do I connect the common or inside wire? I am planning on using three DC power packs. One for a freight yard and one each for the individual main lines. It is designed to cross over trains to the other mainline and use block control to keep the trains power separated. Will I be able to do that easily using the Atlas controllers or by using DPDT switches?
Use a common rail where your using the same power pack. When you go to a different block with a different power pack, isolate both rails. You can use the Atlas controllers or the DPDT switches.
Good video guys, It is more fun and professional to go buy a pack of spade connectors which can be easily crimped on to the ends of the wires with the tool shown . Next it is more easy screw the wires on to packs and control switches ! Bending the ends of a wire into a horse - shoe shape is improper ! You may have to remove then re-connect sometimes so it is the method to use .
Hi Tom, great video, clarified some things for me. In the video you mentioned that you had a fixed DC output on your controller but did not explain what it was used for. I was recently given a Tech II Loco-Motion 2500 controller which also has fixed DC, so was naturally curious what they are for. Now off to watch your next video.
Hi guys, Thank you for this video! My late Grandpa soldered up wiring to the track, and used the screw+wires for the switches. All of the switches work, and I confirmed at a hobby shop that the engine now works. Any idea where to start on checking the solders? I bought a multimeter and I THINK it's telling me there's no power to any of the track.
Hey Tom, I’m absolutely loving your videos. I’m going to start to build my first layout. I inherited my father’s trains after he passed away suddenly from pancreatic cancer. They are all DC and I would love nothing more then to use DC and DCC but not at the same time on my new layout, is that possible and if so how?
Pierre Klee Correct. I built this layout without planning for 2-train running. I heard about this technique and wanted to challenge myself. Needless to say, I don't run 2 trains often. I should have built 2 loops. Limited with a 4x8 table and no flex track. Live and learn! -Mark
What color in reference to power? You are using 2 black wires for feeders? So main buss is red and black? Wich is red black ie red to outside rail and black neg to inside rail?
Using the same color wire on both may be a little confusing unless your doing a simple circle. Check out Ep 20 of MRR4B that I did a few days ago. That may clear it up.
Unless you like pulling your hair out, never merely twist wires together. They will come apart at the most in opportune time. Wire nuts work great for holding things together securely. In theory, just running rail joiners on the common rail will work. In practice, not so much. I use a grounding buss and each block is grounded to it. Your trains will run a lot smoother that way. A grounding buss is as simple as a piece of sheet metal attached to the bench work with several self starting sheet metal screws used to attach the grounding wires to it. These videos are great. I wish I had access to them twenty years ago when I started!
This is made for 1972 or so and even then they were soldering wires to the underside of the track not the sides or using flimsy terminal track joiners. Good to get started for sure but a bit sloppy for larger layouts.
Every video I watch on wiring does and says the same thing ...."one wire goes to block. One to power"...."and then these gapped wires, go here" ..."now I have common wires going here".... absolutely CONFUSING !!!!!! Every time it is time to connect wires to switches or power they start referring to them as "wires"... that's it... not telling anyone which is positive or negative.. just general "wires"... you NEED to show people how the wires go from the track to the power .. terrible !!!
"Fhere is my red and yellow wire"... from where ??? Colors are never mentioned until this point.. but then he starts connecting random "black wires " to the power... I tried showing this video to novices at my train club and they were absolutely lost !!
The reason every video you watch tells you the same thing is because that's the way to do it. These instructions come directly from the Atlas book Mark referenced in the beginning of the video. This is about wiring for blocks which is dividing your layout into sections. That's why there is a reference to gaps in the tracks. Your not going to hear anyone say anything about positive or negative when wiring a DC layout with blocks because polarity is irrelevant. This is not an automobile with a battery marked + and -. If you look at an MRC transformer you will not see any designation of polarity on the terminals. As for your statement to show wires for track to power that is only relevant on a simple no block layout where you connect the wires directly to the track from the transformer. There is no need for any instruction on that.
At the end of the video Mark wires in his water tower which has a light. This device is supplied with colored wires. They are hooked to accessories as he clearly states in the video. He clearly states where those "random" wires are coming from and what they are. If you have a specific question on wiring just ask. To generalize your statement with complaints helps no one that watches these video to learn something new. If your having difficulties understanding the process I suggest purchasing the book referenced in this video and read it over.
@@TomsTrainsandThings Hi Tom, great videos. Hopefully this hasn't been covered but I've been binge watching trying to catch up on your videos. Do you HAVE to wire up blocks when the layout is more complex than a simple oval? I guess I'm not sure on the purpose of why this is necessary, I follow the wires. That's the easy part. But why we're doing this is my question, and maybe even seeing a drawn wiring diagram would help others like me. Again hopefully this stuff has been covered and I haven't seen it yet. I've got some EZ track arriving this weekend and I'm building a 4x8 layout. I'm just going to dive in and figure it out I guess. I don't care about running 2 trains at once, but I want to at least have 2 trains on track at the same time even if I only control one. In my head that's how this is going to work. Do the turnouts kill power to the track it's not turning to? That's the video I want to see. A simple layout with a turnout or two, running a DC train with the most basic equipment you can to run the setup. And what happens when you throw a second train at it?
The video came out in '17 but why is his switches look like they were bought from a thrift store in the 90's? I think the hookup video is a little dated. Over all works great for beginners.
@@TomsTrainsandThings I guess you didn't read the last part of my comment where I mentioned that it "works great for beginners" I was already well aware that the channel is for beginners so the sarcasm was not required.
Hi Mike, with the use of two power packs and the switches he installed. You can operate two locomotives, one from each power pack independently in separate blocks. This video shows him installing an additional block to resolve a problem of two locomotives in the same block. ua-cam.com/video/9KAtYTxYMkY/v-deo.html You can also check out Mark's channel for more information here: ua-cam.com/channels/q35H9mc1aCctWSZ2o-3LtQ.html
Hey Mike, check out the DC wiring video i did on my channel (it goes over in detail how this is attained). The videos here are a great tutorial, but some of the rudimentary dual cab functions are explained in other videos. I think the purpose of wiring DC at it's core, is to achieve the same level of locomotive independence that DCC offers.. but with more of a hands on block selection approach. Cheers to all of you guys for a wonderful community sharing ideas!
What color in reference to power? You are using 2 black wires for feeders? So main buss is red and black? Wich is red black ie red to outside rail and black neg to inside rail?
Great job Tom! Thanks for the shout out and links to my channel. Bought my first DCC locomotive so I'm excited to start my DCC journey soon. -Mark
Thanks for all your help Mark. I really appreciate it. Good luck with your move to DCC. That's a lot more videos for you to create in the future with your new adventure.
Hi Mark, The only thing I would add to your video is when putting a wire under a terminal screw, hook the wire so it goes with the tighting of the screw, ( on your water tower wires turn the hook the other way ) this pulls the wire in tighter when turning the screw, the way you had the wires it pushes the wires out from under the screw head, just a tip, that is kind of hard to explain with words.
sparky107107 Thanks Sparky, I did that at 6:25 in the video. Makes a big difference, you're right.
It would have been very helpful to demonstrate how multiple locos run with the blocks
@@ronwitzke5617 Here is a link that MIGHT be helpful. It’s old and I ramble on a bit. I no longer run DC. ua-cam.com/video/9KAtYTxYMkY/v-deo.html
5 Years later and this is still helpful. Knowing your audience is key to instruction, and many instruction videos assume the watcher is more familiar with the products. This really broke it down to the basics, thanks!
Thank you very much. Glad it was helpful!
Tom that was a great colabroration with Mark. Great intro for beginners, I remember using the very same atlas products on my first layout back in my highschool days
Thanks Peter. You should be thanking Mark, he did all the work on this one.
DCC wiring for beginners
Kenneth, what your looking for can be found in this playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLjjhnrIKSTShk5Wu8uIgxfBYxhSbxHSrD.html
This is great! While I knew what I needed to do, having a visual example cleared up a few foggy points I had. Thanks!
Thanks for watching. Glad we were able to help. If you need any help with anything, you can ask in the comments section here.
You and your wife seem to have a great time!! That's wonderful. 😁
That was a very beginner video - and I mean that in the most positive way! GREAT intro to basic wiring, beyond the starter train set. I plan on sharing this one a lot!
Murph
This is a great one for beginners in DC wiring. Thanks Murph
Hint: When connecting stranded wire leads to a terminal strip, "tin" the wires with solder first. Then make a hook to connect to the terminal strip. This gives a better connection and prevents "whiskers" between the screw heads. The best way is to crimp ring lugs (spade lugs can eventually slip out) to the wires, then land them to the terminal strip. Awesome video !!!
nice video, of back to the basics of model trains, A DC layout can get very complex if it grows and grows. Mark did a good job helping you out, he has a great channel. I really like his one video he did, lol, I will let others figure out which one that is. thanks for sharing guys.
Hey Sparky, Thanks for watching and chiming in. lol. A lot of modelers still start out with DC or us old modelers getting back in the hobby after snoozing for a while. Mark did a great job explaining how he did his layout.
What a great video guys!!!!!!! Mark to did a great job brother. Tom, you and your wife always crack my up. KUTGW EVERYBODY!!!!!
Thanks John. I can't keep a straight face when she's right off camera snickering then busting out laughing. Mark did an excellent job with his explanation of wiring his layout. Two thumbs up.
this will come in handy for me since I am wiring signals.
Glad it was helpful
awesome video Tom & Mark... thanks for sharing.. vinny
Thanks for your support Vinny. Really appreciate it.
Very useful and inspiring. Thanks!
Your welcome Marvin
Hey guys .... When putting in the isolators do I put them on the power or negitive side of the rails? The Atlas code 100 Mark V switches have to have an insolator so it wont short out so do I just put them all on one side?
I'm in an apartment so I can only do a 4x8 HO layout so it will be a single train layout with about 7 switches ... I'm wiring all the areas between each switch to the same leg so 1 controller will run the layout without turning on or off sections
I would put the insulators on both rails
Put them on both rails after the turnout going both directions?
Well done gentlemen.
Thank you Jay
Over 700 subscribers! Way to go! Woot woot! 👏🏻🏆
Wow, 13 new subscribers since yesterday. I see yours went up also. Good job. 👍👍
Is it possible to make trains run with different speed on different blocks? Or do I need separate power source?
Can having multiple sources cause short circuit when train closes the gap by its wheels?
Seperaste power sources for your blocks in DC
@@TomsTrainsandThings So, when a train comes from one power source are to another, can it short-circuit those two independent segment by it's wheels? On real railroad, I know such things as phase gaps
@@GoshaBrooklyn Keep the polarity the same and make sure the direction is the same. Worst thAt could happen is the loco tries tpo continually change direction.
@@TomsTrainsandThings like a pendulum insode old fashion doorbell. In that case, loco would be called "pendolino", but real pendolino isn't running at place.
I am preparing to build my first ever model railroad layout, so I am completely new to all of this. I've searched for answers to these questions and cannot find it anywhere, as it seems nearly everything I find is aimed primarily towards DCC:
> what happens if the locomotive you're controlling stops over the gap between two blocks, so pick-up wheels are straddling the plastic joiner on both sides (pick-up wheels are touching rail on both sides of gap) and 2 different controllers are connected to each block (cab A controls block 1 and cab B controls block 2)? I haven't purchased any locomotives or rolling stock yet, but are there not some locomotives which have multiple pick-up wheels, so it might be possible to accidentally straddle both blocks?
> if you stop your locomotive just prior to the gap between 2 blocks and then switch the cab from controlling block 1 to controlling block 2 your locomotive would not function since you're now controlling the second block -- so the cab would need to be connected to both blocks until your locomotive completely exits the first block and enters the second (and then cab can be disconnected from that first block)? So if a person wishes to operate 2 locomotives there would need to be an empty block between occupied blocks...does the confusing manner I've described it sound like I have the basic idea correct? (I think I have confused myself trying to phrase it properly, and hope you understand what I'm asking).
I realize that a lot of these 'issues' can be overcome by using DCC, but I refuse to pay the outrageous over-inflated prices being charged by model railroading companies for DCC equipment nowadays.
Thank you for making these videos to help others learn to set-up a model railroad layout. Liked/subscribed.
You're overthinking this. Modelers have been doing this for over 60 years with their layouts and blocks. All you have to remember is keep all the blocks the same polarity and you will have no problems. All locomotives have multiple wheelsets that pick up the power, so even over a gap you will have one wheelset on one side and the other wheelset on the other side.
Example, a diesel locomotive with two sets of two wheel trucks, even though one set may not pick up power, you have two wheels picking up the power from one truck.
A very inexpensive solution to the high cost of DCC is DCC-EX, where you fit together a few electronic components yourself (no experience necessary) for about $80. If you want to get fancy you may spend $120. I have several videos on this subject also. You will still need locomotives equipped with a DCC decoder wich you can pick up for maybe $25 more than a straight DC locomotive. There are also DCC ready locomotives where all you have to do is add a decoder to a plug already installed inside the loco. You can run is on DC till you are ready for DCC.
You can find out more about DCC-ex here: dcc-ex.com/index.html#
Can you use solid 20 awg or does it have to be stranded wire?
Doesn't matter if it's stranded or solid. But, solid tends too break easier.
@@TomsTrainsandThings
Thanks. I have a ton of solid laying around.
Question, I have an older ho life like GP 38 ho locomotive, it runs with no problem on regular atlas 83 code tracks, except the Atlas 83 code flex track, the wheel flanges touch the plastic spikes and it slows the locomotive and it causes derailment of the locomotive, it's the brass pick up wheels that rub, not the traction wheels, the rubber rings on the fractions wheels are intact. Is this normal?
I've seen this on a lot of older locomotives & rolling stock on code 83 track. It's a little hard to relieve ones your track is set in place on a curve, but I use a homemade sanding block that fits inside the rail and lightly remove some of the plastic that's causing the problem. Try not to take off too much, just enough so your wheels willl clear.
@@TomsTrainsandThings Thank you Tom, I may have to sell this locomotive. It runs real great untill it comes to a stretch of flex track, kinda sounds like it is going into dynamics LOL. I used to do maintenance work on the GP 38 we had at our coal mine, that's why I hate to see it go.
I will have to go over your tutorial a few times to understand the block function of layout
What if you prewired the track using the same "T" terminal but isolated both sides of the track, where do I connect the common or inside wire? I am planning on using three DC power packs. One for a freight yard and one each for the individual main lines. It is designed to cross over trains to the other mainline and use block control to keep the trains power separated. Will I be able to do that easily using the Atlas controllers or by using DPDT switches?
Use a common rail where your using the same power pack. When you go to a different block with a different power pack, isolate both rails. You can use the Atlas controllers or the DPDT switches.
Good video guys, It is more fun and professional to go buy a pack of spade connectors which can be easily crimped on to the ends of the wires with the tool shown . Next it is more easy screw the wires on to packs and control switches ! Bending the ends of a wire into a horse - shoe shape is improper ! You may have to remove then re-connect sometimes so it is the method to use .
Hi Tom, great video, clarified some things for me. In the video you mentioned that you had a fixed DC output on your controller but did not explain what it was used for. I was recently given a Tech II Loco-Motion 2500 controller which also has fixed DC, so was naturally curious what they are for.
Now off to watch your next video.
Fixed DC is for DC accessories. I have other videos explaining that.
@@TomsTrainsandThings Thanks for the info. Slowly going through your back catalog of videos, Very interesting and informative.
Hi guys,
Thank you for this video! My late Grandpa soldered up wiring to the track, and used the screw+wires for the switches. All of the switches work, and I confirmed at a hobby shop that the engine now works. Any idea where to start on checking the solders? I bought a multimeter and I THINK it's telling me there's no power to any of the track.
Start at your power pack and work your way toward the track
@@TomsTrainsandThings Makes sense! I'll do that! Thank you!
Hey Tom, I’m absolutely loving your videos. I’m going to start to build my first layout. I inherited my father’s trains after he passed away suddenly from pancreatic cancer. They are all DC and I would love nothing more then to use DC and DCC but not at the same time on my new layout, is that possible and if so how?
You can start off with DC, when your ready it's easy to convert. I have many videos on both subjects in my playlists.
@@TomsTrainsandThings Thank you
thanks for the demo
No problem, That's what we're here for. Thanks for watching Morris.
Great Video! I'm glad I bought me the Atlas Wiring. Your video and their Magazine helps alot! What type of 18G Terminal Joiners I need?
Thank you, glad we could help. Use what is available and your comfortable using.
So for your outer "ring", blocks 1 and 4 have to constantly be turned on and off in order to run two engines right?
That's a good question Pierre. I sent a message off to Mark so he could address this personally.
Pierre Klee Correct. I built this layout without planning for 2-train running. I heard about this technique and wanted to challenge myself. Needless to say, I don't run 2 trains often. I should have built 2 loops. Limited with a 4x8 table and no flex track. Live and learn! -Mark
Thanks for responding Mark!
Thank you for your replies. It is easy enough to fix. Separate each loop by insulating the connecting switches and add a power supply to each loop.
Can this be done using ez track
Yes, you can use any track you like.
What color in reference to power? You are using 2 black wires for feeders? So main buss is red and black? Wich is red black ie red to outside rail and black neg to inside rail?
Using the same color wire on both may be a little confusing unless your doing a simple circle. Check out Ep 20 of MRR4B that I did a few days ago. That may clear it up.
I don't understand just 1 wire going into the switch. Don't you need 1 wire going into the switch and 1 wire coming out of the switch?
The terminal connecting the switches together carries the current through all the switches
Unless you like pulling your hair out, never merely twist wires together. They will come apart at the most in opportune time. Wire nuts work great for holding things together securely. In theory, just running rail joiners on the common rail will work. In practice, not so much. I use a grounding buss and each block is grounded to it. Your trains will run a lot smoother that way. A grounding buss is as simple as a piece of sheet metal attached to the bench work with several self starting sheet metal screws used to attach the grounding wires to it.
These videos are great. I wish I had access to them twenty years ago when I started!
Great ideas James, thanks for your input.
Sadly it so blurry and you speak of Block 5 yet diagram only shows 1,2,3 &4
Pay attention. Mark states twice that block 5 is the turntable track., and he also notes it when the engine reaches block 5
Focusing is your friend.
This is made for 1972 or so and even then they were soldering wires to the underside of the track not the sides or using flimsy terminal track joiners. Good to get started for sure but a bit sloppy for larger layouts.
People still use all the methods used many years ago. This is a series for beginners, not large layouts
Every video I watch on wiring does and says the same thing ...."one wire goes to block. One to power"...."and then these gapped wires, go here" ..."now I have common wires going here".... absolutely CONFUSING !!!!!! Every time it is time to connect wires to switches or power they start referring to them as "wires"... that's it... not telling anyone which is positive or negative.. just general "wires"... you NEED to show people how the wires go from the track to the power .. terrible !!!
"Fhere is my red and yellow wire"... from where ??? Colors are never mentioned until this point.. but then he starts connecting random "black wires " to the power... I tried showing this video to novices at my train club and they were absolutely lost !!
The reason every video you watch tells you the same thing is because that's the way to do it. These instructions come directly from the Atlas book Mark referenced in the beginning of the video. This is about wiring for blocks which is dividing your layout into sections. That's why there is a reference to gaps in the tracks.
Your not going to hear anyone say anything about positive or negative when wiring a DC layout with blocks because polarity is irrelevant. This is not an automobile with a battery marked + and -. If you look at an MRC transformer you will not see any designation of polarity on the terminals. As for your statement to show wires for track to power that is only relevant on a simple no block layout where you connect the wires directly to the track from the transformer. There is no need for any instruction on that.
At the end of the video Mark wires in his water tower which has a light. This device is supplied with colored wires. They are hooked to accessories as he clearly states in the video.
He clearly states where those "random" wires are coming from and what they are.
If you have a specific question on wiring just ask. To generalize your statement with complaints helps no one that watches these video to learn something new. If your having difficulties understanding the process I suggest purchasing the book referenced in this video and read it over.
@@TomsTrainsandThings Hi Tom, great videos. Hopefully this hasn't been covered but I've been binge watching trying to catch up on your videos. Do you HAVE to wire up blocks when the layout is more complex than a simple oval? I guess I'm not sure on the purpose of why this is necessary, I follow the wires. That's the easy part. But why we're doing this is my question, and maybe even seeing a drawn wiring diagram would help others like me. Again hopefully this stuff has been covered and I haven't seen it yet. I've got some EZ track arriving this weekend and I'm building a 4x8 layout. I'm just going to dive in and figure it out I guess. I don't care about running 2 trains at once, but I want to at least have 2 trains on track at the same time even if I only control one. In my head that's how this is going to work. Do the turnouts kill power to the track it's not turning to? That's the video I want to see. A simple layout with a turnout or two, running a DC train with the most basic equipment you can to run the setup. And what happens when you throw a second train at it?
The video came out in '17 but why is his switches look like they were bought from a thrift store in the 90's? I think the hookup video is a little dated. Over all works great for beginners.
The turnouts were from Mark & his brother's layout when they were kids. You do realize it's titled "Model Railroading for * Beginners* "!
@@TomsTrainsandThings I guess you didn't read the last part of my comment where I mentioned that it "works great for beginners" I was already well aware that the channel is for beginners so the sarcasm was not required.
great video ,give him hell Deby
Thanks Jim. Believe me, she always does. And we enjoy it!
Great video
He never explained how you would run more than one train with this wiring
Hi Mike, with the use of two power packs and the switches he installed. You can operate two locomotives, one from each power pack independently in separate blocks. This video shows him installing an additional block to resolve a problem of two locomotives in the same block. ua-cam.com/video/9KAtYTxYMkY/v-deo.html
You can also check out Mark's channel for more information here: ua-cam.com/channels/q35H9mc1aCctWSZ2o-3LtQ.html
Hey Mike, check out the DC wiring video i did on my channel (it goes over in detail how this is attained). The videos here are a great tutorial, but some of the rudimentary dual cab functions are explained in other videos. I think the purpose of wiring DC at it's core, is to achieve the same level of locomotive independence that DCC offers.. but with more of a hands on block selection approach. Cheers to all of you guys for a wonderful community sharing ideas!
What color in reference to power? You are using 2 black wires for feeders? So main buss is red and black? Wich is red black ie red to outside rail and black neg to inside rail?