You can see how I wire the main power bus for my DCC system to power the track on my layout in the following video: ua-cam.com/video/umXoRfKphv0/v-deo.html
The man takes apart a pc power supply for HO scale power needs. &$^%&^ GENIUS! I always used a 6 bay power strip, with a ton of random ac to dc adapters for the various bridges, lights etc. By making a secondary board with some resistors, relays and switches, I can have my power needs in one place. Im gonna start thinking out the box more. Well Done
Hi Mike, Ron told me that you model your layout with Kato, I had asked him if he would caulk or hot glue to mount Kato track, he thought hot glue but suggested I ask you. I’m about ready to secure my Kato down so I thought you might give me some advice on the best way or your way how to do this, like under it or along the sides??? Not sure if you have any tutorials on your channel (I’ve never seen it but I’ll sure plan on it if you do), thanks for any help that you might be able to give me in this matter. Ron J.
@@ronaldjoyce7374 Thanks Ron , I do not glue any of my track down unless necessary. I count on the ballast and scenery to do it. If I need to I will use low temp hot glue along the sides.
Wow! Thanks for the speedy reply. I was thinking the same thing, all the glue on the ballasts should hold it but I haven’t modeled in the last 15 years and have missed out on so much. I truly appreciate your help & Oh Ya, thanks for the directional help Ron 😉
Nice vid. Good use of an old PC power supply. I'd replaced a now defunct PC's supply and saved it when the PC died only about a year later. Now it will get good use made of it.
Ron, thanks for another eye opening Video !!! I have two computer power supply units, one that came with my old computer, and one I bought to upgrade that computer. That computer died last year after 14 years of service. I kept all of the components that are still usable and now I will use one of the power supplies after we move to a new house later this year and I build a new layout. Barry
Great video Ron. I too have power supply, rack mount case and everything to do this, but have been sitting on this for over a year. Thanks for the video. I might now tackle this finally as well.
Great video Ron! Before, I was using an 12v AC wall wart to run a bus line down my layout to power my switches. This looks like a fun weekend project for my next layout!
Hi Ron, enjoy your video regarding computer power unit. My layout is DC only, so I’m thinking, is there any reason why I can’t run a computer power unit in the same way to run accessories etc…..many thanks Brian
The circuit board, itself has labels for the specs of the different components on the board. They are marked next to each component, though the info is limited and can be difficult to read, it can still be of some help. Power supplies from old or crashed game consoles can also work well for electronic projects. I’m converting a power supply from my crashed XBOX 360 and attempting to convert a first generation Xbox power supply as well.
Great video, Ron! This is something I have been meaning to do for a long time! The video that I have been using for inspiration is by the great Joe Desmond and his Central Jersey Conrail in N Scale - 'Installing ATX power supplies on the Sayrehurst Secondary'. However, what I am considering purchasing is an ATX Power Supply Breakout board (available from Amazon and other places), which seems to make it so easy - just plug in the power supply sockets and the breakout board supplies all the screw terminals, all labelled for the various voltages. Just need to do some more research on these...otherwise your method will be the way I will go!
You are able to get +5v, -5v, +12v, -12v and 24v all from a computer power supply as well as the possibility of a few other voltages. The 24v power is obtained by connecting directly across both 12v connectors. One of the much older AT power supplies also gives the same voltages but through a different connection with two wire bundles on an AT power supply.
133 switch machines that is peco cdu is needed witch need 16 volts for each cdu but no power is getting out to the line from the power supply the power supply is 3 volt up to 24 volts let me know if I need more power or why it is not geting out to the line.
I was wondering how to use the computer power supplies. I have many, as I had a computer store and have many old computers that are not usable anymore but the power supplies are fine.
What do you think of using WAGO connectors on main and sub bus wire connections as well as for feeder wires under the layouts? WAGOs appear to be very secure connections and come in 2, 3, 4 or more connection typees.
I build power distribution for the US Navy and Disney Theme Parks. For this application GKEEMARS wire connectors are better than WAGO. WAGO has their application here as well but the GKEEMARS are in line couplers and splitters which improve the wiring ergonomics or routing flow. They are also much less cost than WAGO. I use both. It eliminates the crimp on spade connections, the foolish slot screws that can vibrate loose and leaver nut technology allows for different gauges of wire to be clamped independently. You can also write on them to know what their purpose is. They also provide easy patch ability if altering your layout.
With a simple AC to DC 12VDC / 10A DC power supply, if you cut off the DC plug and expose the bare wires, would you get a major ZAP/JOLT when you touched those bare wires? How about a 12VDC / 5A DC power supply? I am just trying to fully comprehend how 10A and 5A differ with regards to getting a ZAP/JOLT from their bare wires. MANY THANKS!
Ron, have you ever done a video on how to properly clean & lube a locomotive? If so, where can I find it? THANKS for all the great tips, technical advice, etc., you given me.
Great video i use 2 of these ATX's to power all my accessories BUT instead of cutting the wires i use a ATX power tester converter board they cost a round £6.00 saves getting it wrong would send pic if i had a link
Hi Ron, great idea fir extra power 👍🏻 I have a question that could use your expert opinion, I’m building a small N gauge table top layout, I’m using Kato Unitrack and I’m about ready to glue it down, would you recommend using the latex caulk or hot glue? Do you think it matters? Your input on this matter would be greatly appreciated.
I used hot glue simply because it was faster. The caulk takes a while to “set” and things can shift. However, the call allows you to reposition things that aren’t quite right. Maybe a combination of both methods would be better?
@@tom7601 Thanks so much for your input on this, I appreciate it very much. I was thinking the same thing as I’m not a patient man LOL but I get your point as long as I get the track perfect the first time 👍🏻😊 BTW I noticed your tag photo, a lighthouse, interesting, I love lighthouses and have collected them over the years. The closest one to me would be the Chicago lighthouse out in Lake Michigan just off of Navy Pier 👍🏻
Great video Ron with lots of useful information. Thank you. A question for you if I may. with this supply set up driving your point motors, would you still need a CDU in the line for throw switches? Thanks again. Clive
Like Ron, for normal Tortoises and various control items - mostly lights and signals- I just use direct off the 12V and 5V bus. In my staging yard I did use some of the PECO switch motors and for them I did use a CDU.
Love this setup! Just wondering, what is the dimension of your board you used? Between friends donations and my old computers, I've made 4 of these ranging from 300 watts to my latest an 850 watt unit. I plan on using the 3.3V for my LED lighting of houses & accessories with resistors and potentiometers to control the brightness.
As I mentioned in the video, the power supply I opened at the beginning was not the one I used for the rest of the video. Long story. That supply did have a brown wire--the 3.3v sense wire. You will find it listed on the color code charts.
Cannot understand why you are not using the 3.3 volt section to run LED lights in buildings or on control panels. Newer power supplies are rated at over 30 amps for the the 3.3 volt section which is more than enough for the several hundred LED's on my layout. That leaves the 5 and 12 volt sections to run control electronics and all of my Cobalt switch machines. Waste not what not. Cheers Brendon.
There are pre fabricated terminal products that make the power distribution problem much easier. They keep the 20 and 24 pin plugs from the power supply. This eliminates all the steps to create your power distribution.
@@RonsTrainsNThings A word of caution on the break out boards with fuses. Those fuses are 5 amp. They will not protect the components connected to the break out board. A good choice is the Electronics-Salon version which has multiple taps that correspond with the pins and there are no fuses to give one a false sence of security.
I have a serious recommendation to people using computer power supplies for this application. They fail ! So don’t cut the multi-pin connector off of the wiring. Use the mailing plug from the computer so when the supply fails you simply disconnect and reconnect the replacement supply. Plug & Play saves a world of pain !
The standby line shows that there is power running to the power supply, thus internal components are energized even if the supply is powered off. No, I left the standby light on the power source itself. The only time you really need it is if you are working on it, so you don't get a sudden surprise shock.
It's amazing how hard it is to find out the best wiring practices for wiring accessories. Track lights, street lights, building lights. Wired in series or parallel? 6 videos and 5 websites later still nothing. Nice vid though.
@@RonsTrainsNThings I am referring to the post, about using the power supply connector, to make your setup 10 times faster, and it already comes with fused outputs, and an on/off switch, that you can use, and not have to open the power supply up, and remove all of the wires you remove. It makes it a 10 minute setup. I left a link for it, but, I also sent you an email. I was only trying to help. You said you weren't an electronic engineer. I AM. I was trying to show you, how much easier it would be to use the power supply adapter. Those who HATE working with electronics, don't have to dig in to all of the unnecessary work on the power supply. I GLADLY showed you where you could get them, and even resell them on your amazon site. I am not selling them. I am not in the business to sell. Since it is NOT on here, check your email. Find them on Amazon, if you wish, they are there too. It would just make things QUICK AND EASY, for those out there who are really not good at working on ANY electronic, and electrical setups. It already has hookup spots for all of your connections, and they are CLEARLY MARKED.... you cannot make mistakes, or get shocked. I offer my HELP.... for you, NOT an interference. Taz...
I did not remove your post. All posts with links are held for review to avoid spammers posting their links. I have been at work all day and I am just now sitting down to respond to comments including reviewing and okaying comments held for review.
@@tazcurrier2193 FaceSmack... Links and or Spam, bad words etc. are removed by UA-cam. If not ever other post will be a link to Prawn site in Russia or a I have 1 million dollars and I want to give you half scam.
There's an easier way that can be used for an old AT or ATX computer supply ... supplies that have a 20/24-wire connector. It already has terminal poles, fuses, power switch, LEDs, etc. They're generally available from Ebay, Amazon, and AllElectronics. For an example, see www.allelectronics.com/item/atx-bt/atx-to-benchtop-power-supply-conversion-kit/1.html
@Donald Kormos The only problem with that style break out board is the fusersare over rated for the voltages except the 5vdc. You may need to replace the fuses to a lower value to protect your components, if that's what you want. There are others with more terminals and no fuses. Electronic-Salon may be a better fit.
Be careful just "connecting all wires of the same color", not every power supply would tolerate this (however, most of the old ones would do). Reason behind is simple: sometimes, you would find a schematic with several electrically separate circuits for, let say, 12 volts: so you have wire group "A" with 12.1 volts for instance, and wire group B with 12.2 volts just because they are two not-the-same electrical blocks inside the same metal box. Once you bond together both "A" and "B" wire groups, you short-circuit the potential of extra 0.1 volt. Yeah, this is a small one, however it would be dissipated somehow due the Ohm law etc., causing extra heat around and shortening the lifetime of your power source.
You can see how I wire the main power bus for my DCC system to power the track on my layout in the following video: ua-cam.com/video/umXoRfKphv0/v-deo.html
I'm a DC guy and I approve of this message👍 i like making junk work. Thanks for sharing.🚂🚃🚃🚃🇨🇦
Really like this. I have a junk computer laying around. Looks like I'm going to be turning it into a lightning and switch power supply.
The man takes apart a pc power supply for HO scale power needs.
&$^%&^ GENIUS! I always used a 6 bay power strip, with a ton of random ac to dc adapters for the various bridges, lights etc.
By making a secondary board with some resistors, relays and switches, I can have my power needs in one place.
Im gonna start thinking out the box more.
Well Done
That was a great help to folks for sure. Nice Job Ron.
Mike
Thanks, Mike.
Hi Mike, Ron told me that you model your layout with Kato, I had asked him if he would caulk or hot glue to mount Kato track, he thought hot glue but suggested I ask you.
I’m about ready to secure my Kato down so I thought you might give me some advice on the best way or your way how to do this, like under it or along the sides???
Not sure if you have any tutorials on your channel (I’ve never seen it but I’ll sure plan on it if you do), thanks for any help that you might be able to give me in this matter. Ron J.
@@ronaldjoyce7374 Thanks Ron , I do not glue any of my track down unless necessary. I count on the ballast and scenery to do it. If I need to I will use low temp hot glue along the sides.
Wow! Thanks for the speedy reply.
I was thinking the same thing, all the glue on the ballasts should hold it but I haven’t modeled in the last 15 years and have missed out on so much. I truly appreciate your help & Oh Ya, thanks for the directional help Ron 😉
Nice vid. Good use of an old PC power supply. I'd replaced a now defunct PC's supply and saved it when the PC died only about a year later. Now it will get good use made of it.
Ron, thanks for another eye opening Video !!! I have two computer power supply units, one that came with my old computer, and one I bought to upgrade that computer. That computer died last year after 14 years of service. I kept all of the components that are still usable and now I will use one of the power supplies after we move to a new house later this year and I build a new layout.
Barry
Thanks for the video Ron. I’m bookmarking this so I can come back and watch it again when I attempt to do the same thing.
Good luck. I hope that goes well for you.
Hi Ron, great idea and thanks for the links to the additional resources. I have an old computer and I will add this project to my todo list.
I've been wanting to make one up, you got me fired up to make one up....Thanks Ron. Bob
Good luck. I found it to be a fun project.
Good presentation Ron! Never too many quality, easy to understand uploads about electronic Model Railroad projects..
Great video Ron. I too have power supply, rack mount case and everything to do this, but have been sitting on this for over a year. Thanks for the video. I might now tackle this finally as well.
I have used the same thing to power all of my lights. Works great
Thank you for sharing. Will definitely check the other videos too
thank you Ron,Tom and Rob B stay safe my friends
Great Video Ron! Learned a lot about powering the layout. Thanks!
Great video Ron! Before, I was using an 12v AC wall wart to run a bus line down my layout to power my switches. This looks like a fun weekend project for my next layout!
Thanks Ron. . Stuff to use, and will use this idea. .
Very nice, love how neat everything looks
Wow, nice job Ron! Definitely going to try this.
love the idea of using LED lights. I used an 1156 light bulb to create the load
Hi Ron, enjoy your video regarding computer power unit. My layout is DC only, so I’m thinking, is there any reason why I can’t run a computer power unit in the same way to run accessories etc…..many thanks Brian
You certainly could. This has no bearing on the track power system.
Thanks Ron, much appreciate your quick reply… cheers Brian
The circuit board, itself has labels for the specs of the different components on the board. They are marked next to each component, though the info is limited and can be difficult to read, it can still be of some help. Power supplies from old or crashed game consoles can also work well for electronic projects. I’m converting a power supply from my crashed XBOX 360 and attempting to convert a first generation Xbox power supply as well.
Great video, Ron! This is something I have been meaning to do for a long time! The video that I have been using for inspiration is by the great Joe Desmond and his Central Jersey Conrail in N Scale - 'Installing ATX power supplies on the Sayrehurst Secondary'. However, what I am considering purchasing is an ATX Power Supply Breakout board (available from Amazon and other places), which seems to make it so easy - just plug in the power supply sockets and the breakout board supplies all the screw terminals, all labelled for the various voltages. Just need to do some more research on these...otherwise your method will be the way I will go!
Hi Peter. Yes, several people have links those in the comments here. I was unaware of them before.
@@RonsTrainsNThings I only found out about them recently, around when I was investigating the Digitrax BDL168 breakout boards
@@peter_borcherds I am planning to build another one for a bench supply, will probably try one of these for that.
Very nice and neat Ron.
I Love it. I Like it. Good Job i might try that to Thank you.
Can one wire one up to power the trains and work with nce power can?
You are able to get +5v, -5v, +12v, -12v and 24v all from a computer power supply as well as the possibility of a few other voltages. The 24v power is obtained by connecting directly across both 12v connectors. One of the much older AT power supplies also gives the same voltages but through a different connection with two wire bundles on an AT power supply.
Dose each bus wire have to be powered separately 2 lines are 6 feet long 1 is 33 feet long connected to a terminal bar.
Hello! i want to know how many amps is safe to use short circuit fuse? thank you!
133 switch machines that is peco cdu is needed witch need 16 volts for each cdu but no power is getting out to the line from the power supply the power supply is 3 volt up to 24 volts let me know if I need more power or why it is not geting out to the line.
Ok so each yellow wire has its own 12v coming from it?? Meaning I could power many devices?
THANK YOU FOR YOUR VIDEO
Hey Ron, what size terminal block jumpers to you use to distribute power across several terminal screws? Didn't see them in your parts list. Thx
I was wondering how to use the computer power supplies. I have many, as I had a computer store and have many old computers that are not usable anymore but the power supplies are fine.
What do you think of using WAGO connectors on main and sub bus wire connections as well as for feeder wires under the layouts? WAGOs appear to be very secure connections and come in 2, 3, 4 or more connection typees.
I have not used them myself, but I know some excellent modelers who swear by them so I am confident that they are good.
@@RonsTrainsNThings thanks Ron, I appreciate it! WAGOs are perfect for household electrical connections. They should work well for train wiring too.
I build power distribution for the US Navy and Disney Theme Parks. For this application GKEEMARS wire connectors are better than WAGO. WAGO has their application here as well but the GKEEMARS are in line couplers and splitters which improve the wiring ergonomics or routing flow. They are also much less cost than WAGO. I use both. It eliminates the crimp on spade connections, the foolish slot screws that can vibrate loose and leaver nut technology allows for different gauges of wire to be clamped independently. You can also write on them to know what their purpose is. They also provide easy patch ability if altering your layout.
With a simple AC to DC 12VDC / 10A DC power supply, if you cut off the DC plug and expose the bare wires, would you get a major ZAP/JOLT when you touched those bare wires? How about a 12VDC / 5A DC power supply? I am just trying to fully comprehend how 10A and 5A differ with regards to getting a ZAP/JOLT from their bare wires. MANY THANKS!
What is the purpose of installing the 10 ohm resistor between the black and the red?
The computer power supply requires a load to turn on. The resistor supplies that load.
Why do you join some (3-wires) together? Was this to save space?
They all carry the same voltage, but multiple wires increases the amperage load it can carry.
Ron, have you ever done a video on how to properly clean & lube a locomotive? If so, where can I find it? THANKS for all the great tips, technical advice, etc., you given me.
I have not, but that is a great idea. The one thing I will say is most important is don't over lubricate.
@@RonsTrainsNThings Thanks, you’re right about that, I learned the hard way, live & learn. LOL
Question off subject. I have a snap track (turnout) switch, do I use 12v DC or AC current to power it?
You need to check the manufacturer's specs, but I think in most cases 12v and always DC.
@@RonsTrainsNThings Thank You very much
Great video i use 2 of these ATX's to power all my accessories BUT instead of cutting the wires i use a ATX power tester converter board they cost a round £6.00 saves getting it wrong would send pic if i had a link
The +12 and -12V are great for running tortoise machines.
I am not an elecrical type person. What would you use the Neg 12 volt wire for?
Great question. The answer is too long for a post, but here is a video (not mine) that explains it very well: ua-cam.com/video/iahc1puHUxs/v-deo.html
good vid ron keep posting vids up
Hi Ron, great idea fir extra power 👍🏻
I have a question that could use your expert opinion, I’m building a small N gauge table top layout, I’m using Kato Unitrack and I’m about ready to glue it down, would you recommend using the latex caulk or hot glue? Do you think it matters?
Your input on this matter would be greatly appreciated.
I used hot glue simply because it was faster. The caulk takes a while to “set” and things can shift. However, the call allows you to reposition things that aren’t quite right. Maybe a combination of both methods would be better?
@@tom7601 Thanks so much for your input on this, I appreciate it very much.
I was thinking the same thing as I’m not a patient man LOL but I get your point as long as I get the track perfect the first time 👍🏻😊
BTW I noticed your tag photo, a lighthouse, interesting, I love lighthouses and have collected them over the years. The closest one to me would be the Chicago lighthouse out in Lake Michigan just off of Navy Pier 👍🏻
@@ronaldjoyce7374 Thats the La Jolla (La Hoya) California lighthouse in southern San Diego County. It’s now unused but converted into a museum.
@@tom7601 Thanks Tom, Your pic was a little small LOL.
I thought it looked familiar, I visited after we toured the Midway about 4 years ago.
I don't have experience with Unitrack, but Mike Fifer does and I think he uses hot glue. That's what I would do.
If you have notice that a lot of the electronics say 12 to 180 volts and the middle of that is 15 volts and that's the sweet spot.
Great video Ron with lots of useful information. Thank you. A question for you if I may. with this supply set up driving your point motors, would you still need a CDU in the line for throw switches? Thanks again. Clive
I have this power bus connected directly to my Tortoises theougj a dpdt switch, no other components.
Like Ron, for normal Tortoises and various control items - mostly lights and signals- I just use direct off the 12V and 5V bus. In my staging yard I did use some of the PECO switch motors and for them I did use a CDU.
@@robbennett1965 Thank you! That is exactly what I intend to do. As always, great advice to be had! Thanks again.
Haven’t watched the video yet but I definitely want to do this on my layout but absolutely scared and not good with computers
This project is surprisingly easy.
Ok Sparky, Very PC
Love this setup! Just wondering, what is the dimension of your board you used?
Between friends donations and my old computers, I've made 4 of these ranging from 300 watts to my latest an 850 watt unit. I plan on using the 3.3V for my LED lighting of houses & accessories with resistors and potentiometers to control the brightness.
all nighter eh? I want to do this too.
Is my monitor going funky.. or do you also have brown?
As I mentioned in the video, the power supply I opened at the beginning was not the one I used for the rest of the video. Long story. That supply did have a brown wire--the 3.3v sense wire. You will find it listed on the color code charts.
@@RonsTrainsNThings Ahh, sorry, you said that so much earlier in the video, i had forgotten by that point.
What do you do if your old computer was a laptop which you have the power supply leftover from? Maybe that will be one of your next videos.
I don't know anything about laptop power supply...although I may have a very old laptop around somewhere...🤔💡
Cannot understand why you are not using the 3.3 volt section to run LED lights in buildings or on control panels. Newer power supplies are rated at over 30 amps for the the 3.3 volt section which is more than enough for the several hundred LED's on my layout. That leaves the 5 and 12 volt sections to run control electronics and all of my Cobalt switch machines. Waste not what not. Cheers Brendon.
Because all of my accessory LEDs are run by Arduino, which take 12v power.
There are pre fabricated terminal products that make the power distribution problem much easier. They keep the 20 and 24 pin plugs from the power supply. This eliminates all the steps to create your power distribution.
Hi Charlie. Yes, several people have linked them here. Thanks.
@@RonsTrainsNThings A word of caution on the break out boards with fuses. Those fuses are 5 amp. They will not protect the components connected to the break out board. A good choice is the Electronics-Salon version which has multiple taps that correspond with the pins and there are no fuses to give one a false sence of security.
Thanks, Tom. 👍🏼👍🏼
I have a serious recommendation to people using computer power supplies for this application. They fail ! So don’t cut the multi-pin connector off of the wiring. Use the mailing plug from the computer so when the supply fails you simply disconnect and reconnect the replacement supply. Plug & Play saves a world of pain !
the wires are color-coded.
orange: 3.3v
red: 5v
yellow: 12v
black: 0v
I said that, yes.
I am unclear what the standby is for. The video shows you did not run that LED indicator to your fascia.
The standby line shows that there is power running to the power supply, thus internal components are energized even if the supply is powered off. No, I left the standby light on the power source itself. The only time you really need it is if you are working on it, so you don't get a sudden surprise shock.
It's amazing how hard it is to find out the best wiring practices for wiring accessories. Track lights, street lights, building lights. Wired in series or parallel? 6 videos and 5 websites later still nothing. Nice vid though.
And if you have a PSU with all one-colored wires you can just look for a pin diagram and mark the cables before you cut the plugs off
What? You lost me after you took the cover off of the power supply! Lol
Why did you delete my post???
I don't know what post your are referring to.
@@RonsTrainsNThings I am referring to the post, about using the power supply connector, to make your setup 10 times faster, and it already comes with fused outputs, and an on/off switch, that you can use, and not have to open the power supply up, and remove all of the wires you remove. It makes it a 10 minute setup. I left a link for it, but, I also sent you an email. I was only trying to help. You said you weren't an electronic engineer. I AM. I was trying to show you, how much easier it would be to use the power supply adapter. Those who HATE working with electronics, don't have to dig in to all of the unnecessary work on the power supply. I GLADLY showed you where you could get them, and even resell them on your amazon site. I am not selling them. I am not in the business to sell. Since it is NOT on here, check your email. Find them on Amazon, if you wish, they are there too. It would just make things QUICK AND EASY, for those out there who are really not good at working on ANY electronic, and electrical setups. It already has hookup spots for all of your connections, and they are CLEARLY MARKED.... you cannot make mistakes, or get shocked.
I offer my HELP.... for you, NOT an interference.
Taz...
I did not remove your post. All posts with links are held for review to avoid spammers posting their links. I have been at work all day and I am just now sitting down to respond to comments including reviewing and okaying comments held for review.
@@RonsTrainsNThings Sounds good. Feel free to contact me. I had NO idea, Ron.
Thank you!!
Taz...
@@tazcurrier2193 FaceSmack... Links and or Spam, bad words etc. are removed by UA-cam. If not ever other post will be a link to Prawn site in Russia or a I have 1 million dollars and I want to give you half scam.
There's an easier way that can be used for an old AT or ATX computer supply ... supplies that have a 20/24-wire connector. It already has terminal poles, fuses, power switch, LEDs, etc. They're generally available from Ebay, Amazon, and AllElectronics.
For an example, see
www.allelectronics.com/item/atx-bt/atx-to-benchtop-power-supply-conversion-kit/1.html
@Donald Kormos The only problem with that style break out board is the fusersare over rated for the voltages except the 5vdc. You may need to replace the fuses to a lower value to protect your components, if that's what you want. There are others with more terminals and no fuses. Electronic-Salon may be a better fit.
Be careful just "connecting all wires of the same color", not every power supply would tolerate this (however, most of the old ones would do). Reason behind is simple: sometimes, you would find a schematic with several electrically separate circuits for, let say, 12 volts: so you have wire group "A" with 12.1 volts for instance, and wire group B with 12.2 volts just because they are two not-the-same electrical blocks inside the same metal box. Once you bond together both "A" and "B" wire groups, you short-circuit the potential of extra 0.1 volt. Yeah, this is a small one, however it would be dissipated somehow due the Ohm law etc., causing extra heat around and shortening the lifetime of your power source.
You should NEVER solder wires going into a crimp connector!
If you really wanna have some fun, get a 1100W serverpower supply and a ‘breakout board’ that crypto miners use.
You’ll have 16 8 pin 12 volt connections
That’s enough for 64 independent 12v leads…
That sounds awesome, but probably overkill for a layout of my size. 👍🏼