If your new to Model Railroading, you'll want to see what is in this Video. We've all made these mistakes when starting our model railroad, so don't feel alone if you made any of these. Useful Tools For Your Model Railroad: www.amazon.com/shop/tomstrainsandthings
I started out not knowing much but I had a friend that had been model railroading for years and one Sunday after church he invited me over to his house to see his HO model railroad. After that visit I was hooked. I drew out on a piece of paper what I wanted and learned by trial & error how to wire a DC railroad and my friend, Jim (God rest his soul, died in 1999) helped me learn the basics. I started out with prefab steel & brass track and switches (turnouts). My curves were 18 inches and wouldn't even let me run a 4-8-4 northern engine. I had a double dogbone mainline with my smallest curves at 15 inches. It was completely flat and I soon tired of a flat layout. When we moved from GA to TN, I had to tear it all down and have not put together another layout to date. Wife wants to move off the mountain we live on, so once we move again, I plan to design another layout. I'm already building models, rolling stock kits and scratch building structures. Since I've collected enough Lionel 027 rolling stock & engines, I will be building 2 layouts, one for HO and the other O scale for the Lionel. I'm 73 and don't have a lot of time left, LOL. Cheers from eastern TN
Been modeling HO scale for 35 years, a lot of these videos on UA-cam have a lot of bad info and advise. This is the first one that I've seen that gives great advise. I tell people all the time, if you're not having fun, you're not doing it right. People always want to jump into this hobby with their wallet and buy all sought of things, I always send them to the bookstore first to start reading. A mentor and homework, the only way to start this hobby and really enjoy it. 4x8 layouts seem small and boring, but they are great teaching tools to help develop your skills for what comes next.
Lots of great advice, and some of it confirms that I'm on the right track with a recent decision. I have been planning a large N scale layout for nearly a year, but have procrastinated mostly because I'm overwhelmed by so much of it. I recently decided instead to build a small shelf/switching layout. This will let me learn the basic skills that will later let me build larger layouts. I built the framework last weekend and laid the base layer of foam board yesterday. I'm a lot more excited about this now because it feels like something achievable. Hoping this will give me confidence to work up to building the bigger layout someday.
Glad you're finally getting started. That first step is always the hardest, so it will be all fun from now on. I'm always here if you have any questions
Very good points you have! The money thing is a point, too. I'm in my early 40's, with a wife, 4 year old little girl, a house, 2 car payments etc. And I'm working class. I've been out of it for 20+ years. Joined a club at church and now I'm back into it. Craigslist is your friend, at least in my area. I bought a 5x10 and 4x6 sections of benchwork for $35! Not only did that save me money but time. Now I'm laying my track on my nicely built, inexpensive platforms, creating an " L ". I did buy a few locomotives since my old ones, even after cleaning and lubing, were less than impressive. It can be done on a budget, just need to be patient yet persistent!
Thank you Joshua, anytime you can save money is great. I find a lot of items myself from Thrift stores and yard sales. I once bought an N Scale layout that had more value in the spare parts in the boxes that came with it that the layout itself. You never know what your going to run into.
Good advice, I currently am in the process of making most of these "mistakes" right now, but I do have patience. My top advice is join a model railway club near you if you have one. That way by association you will pick up many tricks and tips. And, while you are there, shut up and listen. That way you may make a few friends that may really be able to help you.
Thank you for all of your videos. I'm seriously considering about getting into this hobby (i'm 58) and I'm trying to learn as much as I can before spending a single dollar. Your videos, as well as a lot of other peoples, are an immense help for us newbies. Don't worry about the haters, there are always those that have to find fault in others to make themselves feel good.
Hi Tom / The biggest mistake on my layout was, not painting the wall a sky blue and painting in clouds. I did this after all the bench work was done. I started my layout in 1983 with a start over in 1998, after moving to my present location. Gary 🚂
Thanks Gary, I made sure I painted my walls by matching the color on a few backdrops I had. The only thing I neglected was the ceiling. I ended up painting that a few years later.
gary- its a lot like building a car. first logical step is to draw up a job sheet (especially if you have co-creators) and that helps with sequencing the work to minimize interference and maximize work efficiency. the job sheet also helps co-creators by assigning jobs to a particular creator or group so everyone can work at tasks that suit them/or that they are perhaps best at doing. had you done that- you prolly would have caught your mistake and would have prepared the room (and above-layout lighting) before completing your benchwork, track work, and scenery. hey, tom! rob
One big mistake is avoiding those old Tyco, marx and AHM and varney models If you are on a budget and do not have a lot of money . they usually still still work great, or can be get up and running with a little drop of oil. Remember if it has been running like new for 60 years it is NOT junk!
Agreed. Most people avoid all old stuff which needs work... really that's where the money is. 5 bucks for a "crappy" boxcar that really just needs a dusting and wheel and coupler replacement. After all, all you need is the shell.
Indeed. The old Tyco Powertorque motors were a solid enough design... On paper. I once read an interview with the guy who designed them who recounted that the bean counters higher up had cut corners in the manufacture of them. Often times, metal and plastic flash and burrs were a big problem. Plus he originally designed BOTH trucks to be powered, not just one. I rebuilt a Tyco Super630 with dual motors, properly cleaned, oiled, lubed and all bearing surfaces clean and free of burrs and flash. It runs as quiet as a Kato diesel and pulls a pretty long train too! I run HO trains made as far back as the 1930s and find with basic care (The kind ANY model should receive) they will chug on for decades, holding their own against new production in pulling power. Here, the old heavy die cast parts work in their favor. I have a video of one of my Mantua 0-4-0 tank engines pulling FIFTEEN POUNDS of train like its nothing.
Thanks for your ten most common mistakes. My modeling ambitions lean toward WW2 military planes, ships, tanks etc. But planning and patience are excellent values for all modelers. Thanks again.
I received an MTH Amtrak Surfliner O gauge train set from my wife. I made a shelf layout above the door and window of my office. The curves are O-36 to run all my O gauge trains. Now I'm looking at O scale Superliner cars that run on O-54 curves. I wish I had gone with the larger radius turns, but I didn't want the shelf sticking out from the wall and closing in on me. People say to go with scale instead of gauge, but you can't really tell the difference looking way up at the train. Sigh...
Hey Tom. Thought I'd get back to you regarding my problems I had with my Digitrax PR3. After checking my connections and the unit still not working as I expected, I broke down and bought a DCS240. It already has a USB interface, and setup was a SNAP. After it's setup, I have had NO troubles using my JMRI and updating CVs with it. It did solve all of my problems I was having using JMRI. Thanks for your encouragement to get / be a better model railroader.
Hey Tom, Thank you very, very much for these nice warnings against beginner mistakes, I did sometimes, too in the past. My actually imperial prussian railroad project is my second modular project. Still I don't even have the space to model more than two or thee modules of shortly more than one yard in length, in metric 100 cm or 1 meter long. I had choosen the H0 (half zero) Scale of 1:87, it works very well for me over the last 40 years. I started with AC third rail power but changed into international DC in 1984, since than I am DC model Railroader and well around one decade before I decided to change into DCC operation with the Austrian Roco DCC Command Station...a tetrible box with handheld throttle as command station and CVs could not read out. That gave lot of difficulties by programming but it worked on. In thr last weeks I made a setup zo the z21 Start Command Station, using my oldef equipment as boosters and using the cable wired handheld throttles but it works much better and now I can read out the CVs....I am happy with it. For my three modules it is well enough and more than a handful locos I do not need for this shortline's Endstation at a seaside subburb. My favourite Era is the summer of the year of 1908 at northern germany at the City of Luebeck, what was not part of the Prussian Kingdom, a very funny project. Luebeck is still known the metropolitan city of Marzipan or Organ Music, Johann Sebastian Bach studied here chorch organ music at St. Mary's Church around 337 yesrs ago. Luebeck is also known as the german headquarter of Campbell Soups her sold under the german brand name Erasco. In 1853 a local private stockholder RR opened their Service to connect Buechen at Prussia. This real RR opened their subburb line to the seaside of the baltic east sea in 1883. Sure it had a busy marshalling yard to handle mest cars coming from a busy slaughterhouse in 1908 by 30 cars daily and in 1912 by 60 cars daily. Me I cannot show this big humpyard so me need to model the more interesting countryside depots and one fictional smal traject station with ferry boat landing. At Waldhusen (Forestvillage) a cemetry was existing with teamtrack onto cemetry...like at London in Great Britain, but much more smaller. It gave special burial cars, some baggage cars to transport coffins with the RR and in deep sympathy travelling family members aboard of it sitting inside a comfortable heated compartment. Freight service did in mixed trains. A small but fine project.
I wish I could have the same space in layout like yourself, but my actually living situation does not allow me to model more than three short modules...but the modules a great to be shown in train shows, when becoming connected with other friends layouts to run own trains onto a very large module arrangement. So still I am modelling some running tracks in single and double line with a junction tower where two tracks at the left side and one track at the right side. The interesting thing is the junction for itself, controlled by mechanical levers with working ,,saxby & farmer" cascade interlocking register. The ,,Saxby & Farmer" patent was done in 1857 at London in Great Britain, the ,,motherland" of railway or railroad engineering worldwide. I have 7 levers only to control this junction tower and junction module. The junction modele is in the middle and has got two turnouts and three semaphore signals. The needed ,,repeater" ahead standing distant signals are controlled by electric machanical operation onto the layout but at the prototype by mechanical double line steel signal wire cords. The Prussian Type Distant Signals were green round Disks showing a green light in Danger Position stop onto next Signal. If it will showing a white light when the round Disk will be horizontal that means the Line is Clear. Yes it gave lot of terrible Accidents by missunderstanding the green light as ,,Danger" signal, so the state Railroad decided to change that distant signal and light colour in the year into yellow in the year of 1935. I have two blue levers for two turnouts, one black lever for the lock lever of both turnouts. Two red and white levers to control the both signal arms onto signal A to use the junction track to the left and to control in other direction the one signal arm onto signal C. Two red levers to control the upper Semaphore Arm of Signal A for the Main or in other direction to control the signal B onto the Main. Alltogether 4 Signal arms onto three signals. The more difficult thing is the block apparatus, it is a little more complicated than others, because of using 10 electrical fields. It does working like the prototype operation, but is more a show feature but not really needed for my own railroad operation, it can be switched off. It works as an additional railway interlocking safety apparatus onto train shows, what we are planning to do here.
Modules are the way to go in limited spaces. T Trak is even smaller modules designed specifically for situations like yours. Look at my video from the train show I did last week in Tallahassee, nearly all the layouts were T Trak in various scales.
Thank You. I moved an unfinished section of a layout from house to house only because I never had the time to finish. But, there are many that do start too big and get overwhelmed.
Boy there are mean people out there. Remember when they said "if you don't have anything nice to say"..?. Meanwhile I have enjoyed this video again. I got lost in RC airplanes but hope to build a scenic layout inside of a work/storage bench in N-scale.
I inherited absolutely tons of stuff, 20+ locos, 80+ rolling stock, roughly 200 feet of track and switches and even structures. Talk about overwhelming...lol thats the understatement of the millennium. I have basic wiring knowledge and creativity to build something but one thing is holding me back. Patience This video has made me think of going about it in a small way and build something...ill be back to report where things are. Anyway thank you
I still have my original 2x4 oval layout incorporated into my final design as an "end point". My advice is to build in sections you can unbolt so if you move, the railroad does not have to be destroyed. AND there is nothing wrong with using older equipment you can afford and not using grades at all. My 15 x7 U shaped layout is all "flat" but it has the appearance of leaving a river port area and moving into pine tree filled montains. I also still use rapido couplers in N scale because FOR ME, they are easier to work with and maintain than all the various brands of knuckle couplers that may or may not work with each other. Last bit of advice is the best: just have fun, don't make it into a job or monster you become a slave to just to keep trains running. :)
My last layout I did in sections, open grid, cookie cutter and modules. The Modules were by far the easiest to disassemble. The open grid, I had to destroy, could not save any of it except the track which I ended up pulling up before destroying everything else. I did save some of the lumber though. My current layout is all Modules. I still have one section from the old layout to add to iit that was cookie cutter.
Hi Tom Probably the best thing for beginners is to start with simple DC trains not DCC with DC you can get the basic skills learn from basic books build simple tunnels, mountains out of boxes (shoe boxes), cardboard strips ,grass mat,mountain paper,etc ways to try to keep the layout cheap and simple and fun til the money n time,n skills allows you to move on to a bigger step
VERY good advice - very wise words. I used to have a "Nickel Plate Road" Lionel set I worked on with my grandfather when I was much, much younger. I wish I had the money to continue today. As a child, I did not have a sense of the price involved, especially with O-gauge Lionel trains. I've thought about buying a starter HO kit and rebuilding.
Nice tips. I've been researching how to plan layouts and wire for DCC. Some common mistakes beginners make is trying to cram too much track into a given space, and making curve radii too tight.
A long time ago a friends family had moved dozens of times building, enjoying, expanding their layout until they found a nice house with a HUGE basement that they could run 12 individual trains (1 per guest) while his father sat in an elevated booth, overseeing the others (within lakes, buildings, mountains, etc...) run their assigned routes. ;-)
Terry Lefevre Us too the three of us have literally 3500 locos and nearly 8 thousand Rolling stock Across 15 Railroads.This does represent a lifetime of education and a vast knowledge from road trips and hands on the real thing....👍
Thanks Tom, I’m 22 and just starting out my model set. So far so good. As being a young buck, patience is something I have very minimal of. But, I do love the hobby! It’s relaxing to do after coming back from work.
ok 1 u dont have to have a particular area of the world to build 2 i have my own designs i like 3 im not an will not go through the added expense of having to buy all kinds of crap i really dont want or need my current layout is 3ft wide x 9ft long and im adding a 2nd an 3rd level to it and didnt cost me hardly nothing but i agree totally with everything u said on avoiding the mistakes except the building a particular part of the world or country side u want to build i feel anyone should have the free right an vision to build a layout the way they want it an not have to get every little detail that comes with building a particular rail yard or town or city
Tom, When soldering track, for a curve using flex, it can be a problem bending the curve with the wires in place. The rails have to slide thru the members and get hung up on the wires...if they are placed when the track is straight. Would it be better to solder the bottom of the rails so the members are not in the way? Bob
Bob, feeder wires are generally soldered after the track is in place. As far as soldering the side of the track in place while it's straight, you normally remove a few ties or slide them far enough away to not interfere while bending. The soldered joint will not move very far while bending flex track. You can always slide ties under the rail once the track is in place.
Hi Tom I’m 14 and have always loved model trains i have a Bachman Chattanooga HO Scale Ready Run Electric Train Set and a manual turnout expansion set I’m experimenting which placing the figures and buildings and building tunneled and bridges from game gases and tissue boxes do you think this is a good time and way to begin
Noah, that is an excellent way to begin. There are a lot of modelers that use paper or cardboard mock ups to represent buildings and other items around their railroad. I also have the Bachman Chattanooga set, I used the EZ track to visualize how my layout would look. The train set goes under my Christmas Tree every year. Post some videos of your progress whenever you have a chance.
That's another good one Eric. My list keeps growing. I did a 5 more mistakes video, I should do a top 20 mistakes or maybe 25 if I can remember some more of the mistakes I made. lol
Hi Tom! I'm not sure if you still read this - I hope you do! I adore trains, used to have a model when I was younger. I'm looking at running some 4-6-2s with long passenger rolling stock - what's the safe minimum radius you'd recommend? If you have video covering this of course I'd be keen to see
Most manufacturers would say a minimum 18" radius. But in my opinion, it doesn't look right. I use a minimum 22" radius and that's just in the tight spots. I try to widen the curves as much as the space permits.
New Ray Used to make a bunch of battery operated HO scale trains and acessories that can be easily modified. They even had Painted figurines, operating acessories like Car ferry ships, scale model cars, figurines or many kinds, signs, Gas stations, construction equipment and it was actually better than the "model" versions of the same stuff. They even had a crane that could pick hut stuff and load it on a flatcar hand operated but it worked great and was easy to put togeather.
I want to build an N Scale RR and I want to build a Heilo to gain height and layers. I can not find a kit or details on how to do it with a grade that is not crazy. I am glad you made this video
Tom, a bit off topic, i've never really been interested in Programming, as i'm a mech eng (nail bender) but now using Rasberry Pi and Arduino, think I should learn. Are you aware of any simple step tutors so I can have a go? bearing in mind my last involvement in programming was Punched Fortran cards at College, with too many syntax errors.
All great issues to avoid. But half the learning experience is making your own mistakes. Changes? Model railroaders never make changes. LOL Keep up the great work with the videos!
Hi Tom. I live in a apartment with a rather larg basement to build my layout in. However I can't make my layout permanent. Therefore I need it to be modular. I'm planning on building modular tables that are 3' wide by 4' feet long. I know you said not to build your tables along the wall and that it won't work. I'm wondering what options I have. Thanks for the video and all the advice.
Todd, your confusing modules with tables. Yes I said not to put table after table along the wall. Before that I said put your modules against the wall if you want. Modules are typically a uniform size so most if not all modules built can be interchanged except for the end modules that have the curves. I have a couple of videos on benchwork in the Model Railroading for Beginners playlist that you can reference for building your benchwork. I have a 10X17Ft layout against the wall that is free standing everywhere except where it is built over the stairwell.
Thank you Tom! 3 mins before the 1st mistake, I believe was a good test for those who don't know if they have the patience for the hobby. If people are impatient with the first three minutes before getting into the first mistake, I can just only imagine how many broken train parts and engines they will have!
Thanks Aaron. The first three minutes was bonus material for the beginners who have the patience to sit through it. lol. Some people just don't have any patience at all.
I' d rather spend that 3 minutes building the layout, than listening to continuous repetition of the same thing over and over... The video is too long. You could say the same things in 5 minutes.
Really good advice. I’m planning on making a three tiered HO layout in a 20x20 sized room. So that means I have to loop my track at least one revolution for a 2 % grade depending on my gap between my tiers. The part that I am stuck on is whether I build a tier at a time or I build the skeleton all at once and fill it in as I go?
Thanks Tom. Very helpful and informative. Can you please advise on using HO code 83 vs. HO code 100 track. My family gave me a Bachmann 4-8- 4 engine (new) set for Christmas and now runs on code 100 steel track. I am planning a larger layout probably using Atlas code 83 nickel silver. I am not sure about using Atlas turnouts and probably will use Walthers or Micro Engineering for smoother operation. Any advice? Thanks so much. I like your channel.
Thanks Andrew. Check out some of my other videos on track and turnouts. You can mix just about anything with the same code. I use code 100 on portions of my layout when I had it left over from years past. The rest of my layout is code 83.
loved the advice, and I do have questions to ask of any with decoder experience. I'm having a massive string of bad luck with decoders! I recently installed a lok select micro v.4 in an N scale SD9 it runs ..... BUT...... : 1) The prime mover sound won't throttle up past the first notch. 2) None of the other extra sounds will play ( spitters, compressor, dyn brake, sander, etc). Only the engine, horn, and bell play ( of which I can't seem to change either). 3) The speaker makes a hissing noise only when a sound plays. And it's a very audible hiss just about as loud as the engine and it's an 8 ohm speaker. I've done factory reset a number if times but it's the same deal. Everything is wired up, soldered cleanly and I used Kapton tape where necessary. Any help is appreciated if anyone knows what is causing these issues.
Thank you for your question. Many times the most obvious issue is the cause of the problem, what ends up more times than any other issue is bad connections. The easiest way to troubleshoot your problem is to set up a test track with good clean track with soldered wires coming from your command station. This eliminates any possible bad connections on your layout. Sound decoders need a good clean DCC signal to operate efficiently. If it still doesn't work after using a test track, you can have a bad decoder or a bad connection within your locomotive. Do you have an ESU decoder tester? Best solution to test your decoder. Did you test the decoder before installing it in the locomotive? What Command Station are you using? Is it compatible with the extra sound functions available on the decoder. What size bus wires are you running? If they're too small, you may not have a strong enough signal. Are all connections solid? One bad connection can affect your entire layout, even if other decoders work well on your layout.
Thank you for replying! So to answer your questions as best as I can: I have a test track and it's wired up pretty solidly (although I will revisit it to make sure.) I'm using the NCE Powercab and my bus is 14 gauge wire. I know the sound functions work as I have two Kato units with MRC sound and they work just fine with no issues. I am starting to wonder if the sound files are somehow just not there? Is that possible? I mean the engine sound plays. It cranks up and shuts down, it's just not revving with the notches. Unfortunately I don't have a lok programmer or tester but am not sure If I want to invest in one right now. This is my only lok decoder and I don't currently plan on expanding my fleet past the 5 trains I have. Not unless I decide to replace the decoders in all of them. As far as testing before installing , no I didn't =/. I can easily remove it to see but I expect the same result as my connections are pretty solid. It's something to try though. As far as the speaker goes, what would usually cause the speaker to make hissing noises? I actually have this issue with a digitrax decoder as well and both are using 8 ohm speakers. The decoder itself works fine. I know the track is clean cause I just recently cleaned it last week and the loco rolls with no stutters.
It's possible the sound files are corrupt or missing. If you can interface with your computer, there is a program Sound Pro that comes with JMRI. I've never used it myself, but it may be worth a try to see if you can access the sound files from there to see what the problem is. Also, You can use Decoder Pro to see what all your CV's are set to. The speaker hissing could be coming from interference. Try turning off other devices nearby to see if it stops. The ESU decoder tester can be used to test decoders from any manufacturer. I just bought one myself, but haven't used it yet. With all good connections, your best bet is something is wrong with the decoder. Hope you find a solution, and if you do, please let us know what you find in case others come across the same situation.
Im getting back into moddeling again, my base is going to be plywood and when i set the track, i see a lot of people use use wood glue. is this recommended or should i use nails?
I normally nail the tracks in place and the only time I use glue is when laying the ballast. There are many ways to do it, some use glue, some use latex caulking. It's a matter of preference. Many times I adjust the positioning of the track before I ballast so it would be very difficult if I glued them down.
Tom a great video. Where did U get the green screen? That concept is really unique. Let's see more of this type of videos. I am an experienced model Railroader. Yes I have built layouts and even helped with club layouts. Age 6 I had my figure 8 Lionel layout in my bedrom.I have learned much about modeling and many forms. The two most important I live by in my modeling is. Learn all you can about the subject even before you purchase anything. And never ever be afraid to make mistakes or even to start over. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and insights with us. Take care and God bless
Thanks James. Link for green screen: www.amazon.com/shop/tomstrainsandthings I have nearly 400 videos to choose from. Check out my playlist's for additional subjects.
N scale is really good if your living in a apartment such as myself, also researched the different brand and types, going with ez track and watched the video and took it all in lol
When I built my first layout I knew space and money was going to be an issue so I came up with a very small layout 3 1/2 by 7 feet and I made it not on a bench it was a small platform you could place on the floor or a table. It was also made too be picked up by two people and put into the back of an SUV or truck. So I made it mobile enough too be moved.
Tom, Installing an incline with a laser - - - It can be daunting to lay in an incline, especially a long one without dips or bumps and get it exactly at a specified grade - - usually 2% is highly recommended. Well, how can this be easily done - - with a household laser from a big box store. Mount your laser head on a camera tripod if possible. Zero out the device for level in both directions. Now locate the zero point of the incline and mark it. Now project the other end of the incline, say, to rise to 2 inches. Divided the rise of the incline 2 inches by .02(%) and you will get a run of 100 inches. Place the second stick at this point and mark it at 2 inches up. Set up the laser and set the bottom end of the beam at the zero point. Adjust the angle of the beam until it rests on the 2 inch mark at the right end. You have a 2% grade. Assemble your incline along this laser beam and your incline will be dead on. This works great for an elevated reversing loop at the top of the grade as the beam will shoot along 2 right angle walls if set up right. If you really want to do yourself a huge favor , buy ANYRail design software and license it for $60.00. All the pain of bench work and track layout design, with clearances and elevations, will disappear, including building a helix. Best piece of software I every bought. If it will not fit on this track plan, it will not fit on your benchwork - -period. Set bridges, mountains, scenic elements - -plan building space - -etc. Lay out yards, sidings, spurs, switches, smooth curves, lay in easements, the works. Full track library of all brands. Or print the tracks out and past them together. Lay the cutouts on the benchwork for a paper mockup of your entire railroad if you wish. Dead nuts accurate. Lay sub roadbed right over the paper! Most elevated reversing loops need about an 8 inch clearance to look right. This works out to the fact that you need an incline of about 400 inches . . . .just do the math. Wait a minute, AnyRail will do it all for you! The pain is gone!! Bob
THANK YOU...for sharing. WOW...I think I made all ten mistakes plus more :) but I had fun doing it. Scott Cameron said it right-MONEY- better set yourself a budget and stick to it.
It's a challenge to have planned everything so you know how to do everything befroe you start, and yet not to be fixated by planning everything to the n'th degree. At some point, you have to just start laying some track. Experiment; have your first loop running different underlays, so you know which is quietest, most reliable, easiest to weather, etc. Build your first section as a module that you can use in your next layout; even if you start with an Inglenook, you can have that shunting puzzle still fully active in your next layout. And you may be able to make more than one module to fit that space, so can change era or region; this is planning ahead to increase scope, rather than to define the (only) road that you can follow.
Thanks for your input Tom. I had a section of layout that I moved to three different houses through the years, I finally had to rip it up when it got destroyed in storage. I have a follow up video coming up shortly with a few more items.
Just some general advice when someone approaches you with a problem, I always ask to see the problem for myself before offering help. If I can see what's wrong I can offer better help than just going off of what I'm told. I apply this to almost everything when someone needs help.
ALL great points Tom!! As far as asking for help.... You really want to make sure that you know who you're asking, and can trust his/her knowledge. THAT, can save you a LOT of time, effort, and money! Money really is an issue. For what a newcomer is forced to pay for even a basic BACHMANN Train Set, with maybe a couple of extra accessories.... I could have built *TWO* of my original 4' x 16' Layouts in 1976! INCLUDING the Trains, Track, Power, Buildings, AND even the LUMBER!! 😱 Back then, unless you were in O Scale... Model Railroading really WAS a great leisure time activity, that nearly ANYONE could do. Now, it's an incredible investment. Me and Carmine are SO glad that we bought most of our equipment *before* the mid-90's. Murph
The biggest mistake is probably trying to bite off more than you can do. The second is probably starting to do scenery before all the base elements are running properly. The third is likely lackof access o hidden track. And that can mean things besides tunnels or helices. Industrial sites with buildings close to the track on both sides. Some of these problem stem from magazine issues and books. Everybody loves the articles on the super layouts. What I call the John Allen or Gorre & Dephaited Effect. At the same time the beginner will ignore the how to articles
Woohoo! I hit all 10 points at one time in my life! What do I win? Great video Tom. Mistake #11 - letting your dog in the train room and he eats your favourite Tom's Trains n Things hat that you bought off Amazon. -Mark
Congratulations, join the ever increasing club of modelers who are normal! lol We can't help ourselves. I like your #11. You can do a top 10 list of why there are "No Dogs In The Train Room."
aren't Corgi diecast trolleys 1/64 scale? and I believe somebody makes a powering kit for them- perhaps hollywood foundry. I bought a lot of locomotives (N scale- about 50) and have about a hundred pieces of rolling stock. i love to work on the locomotives. Love Japan-made locomotives. N scaler since '72.
Many Lionel O-27 offerings tended to have bodies very close to S scale. You could almost call it what American Flyer did before WWII: 3/16 O scale. Depending on what era of trolley car you want, the 4 wheel Lionel Birney car could be kitbashed into an S scale car. I'd say narrow the carbody slightly, and mount it on an S chassis. If you can get two bodies, kitbashing them together would yield a good looking 8 wheel car. Beyond that, a number of toy car makers made their stuff at or close to 1:64. I don't know if any did trolley cars, but that's something to keep an eye out for. You'd have to build a powered mechanism of course.
Thanks very much for looking into this for me. Unfortunately, the helix was so tight and steep that the grade was over 3.3. The engine alone could not pull this grade. That is when I created the RGBLED lighting valance out of the old shelf. I now have a double reverse loop system with a 3 track yard, passing siding, 3 spurs, and 1 industrial siding...all in 16' , turn, 13 feet , turn, and 8 feet turn.. bob
Lots of great information. I can't count how many mistakes I made and that is after watching a ton of YT videos. I would hate to see what the layout would have looked like if there was no videos to watch and help from the community.
Some great advice there. I would have made the mistake of going too big if I didn’t move house earlier this year. was originally working on a 12x9 layout with 2 levels and it was a bit much; now because the limited space I’m doing a 4x9 layout and it’s progressing just fine :)
I think a lot of model railroader's need to also do the old school thumb test when it comes to track testing as well. I see a lot of bad tracklaying here on youtube.
hi Tom , great video with good information starting at 3:04 for highlighting mistakes for new railroaders. may I just point out that if you have too much stock then this can be solved by putting an extra engine on.
hi Tom... you have brought up some very good points... i think i have made several of those mistakes... i hope this video will help the new comers to the hobby.. thanks for sharing.. vinny
I really want to get into model trains and the whole world of it. I've watched tons of vids on youtube and sometimes it seems over whelming and not sure if I can do it. I watch some vids and think to myself, that seems easy and then I see a couple more and I think, I cant do that. i'm not really sure.
Donald, the first step is the hardest, that's getting started. Best advice is just get started in the hobby. Start out small and do what you know how to do . There is no pressure to build something you can't. Take your time and have fun. That's the most important thing!
Tom, it was a plastic loco. I saw a video suggesting freezing the shell, and gently pulling the railing off/out. It was a snap! The railing shattered and snapped. : )
i have over 300.... no probs, people, help the industry and keep your self happy...just keep on thinking where to keep, how to MAINTAIN, even if it is in back of closet... do what you want...be free, be happy....it is a HOBBY...no rules...Enjoy !
I have seen layouts with as much track as possible crammed and shoehorned into all of the available table space. There wasn't room for roads or even an outhouse sized building. Running trains is great, but overkill is like anything else, soon lose interest when all you can do/see are trains.
"....not so many locomotives unless you're gonna have a display shelf..." [X] Thank you! Good answer! John, Age 49 MRR since age 8. [X] Have Fun! Perfect.
Hehehe...If you’re not quite ready to listen to the Top 10 mistakes beginners make, start from the beginning, cause then maybe you’ll be ready by 2:22 😀😜😂. You know I’m just teasing with you! 👌🏻
Nice video. I also believe that "it is your railroad model so you are the boss". Sometimes there is so much advice that it could be overwhelming and this could also pushes newcomers away from the hobby.
i see money brought up as one problem, I have the wife, kid, house, 2 cars, and I still find the money for my hobby. I think it all comes down to time, you have to take the time to SAVE the money you need for the products you want. put away 25$ a week,, or 30$ a week, till you can get it. money is only the problem when you say I want I want, then ya.. no one can afford this hobby. many great things to buy. It is a hobby that you have to take your Time with, from laying the track to buying a loco. It all takes nothing more than TIME
Well Dave, I guess there's always going to be someone that complains about how expensive everything is and they can't do it. It's always been Time for me. All my kids were in several sports and I always had two jobs until I started our business so there was never enough time to finish what I started. I always made an attempt to get a layout started in the basement, some attempts went further than others but the money part was never an issue. If I didn't have enough money for something, not just in model railroading, I worked longer hours to get what I wanted. Now that I'm retired I have all the time in the world, yea right, I'm doing these videos about model railroading and getting some train time too.
I agree. It is about budget and planning. Scenery is an area where you can save money, because, with a little creativity almost any item can be used to create realistic scenery. I bought a blender at the thrift store for cheap and have ground everything from leaves, eraser, twigs, eggshells, etc. in it and have used things like baking powder and inexpensive pastel chalks to create excellent and realistic looking scenery. I have been in the hobby over 40 years and we did not have the advantage of everything pre manufactured. Get creative and experiment with things, learn to do it yourself instead of depending on others.
UA-cam quit sending out email notifications long ago. I'm surprised you got them till August. In order to be notified, you must have the notifications enabled on your cell phone& the bell notification on your browser checked with the option ALL notifications. They had this requirement for a few years now, but slowly removing all other forms of notification.
I think the topic is a great idea and I like the way you use backgrounds but the specific topics are rather vague and some are downright inconsistent. For example, in #9, you say "ask for help" but then you say, ignore the advice because you'll get a dozen different pieces of advice so just use what seems right for you and also that seems like something you can do. So which is it? Get advice, or ignore the advice you get? Or just "go with your gut?"
At 12:45 I state "Don't accept bad advice" 13:08 "Make sure you know somebody that will give you good advice." Notice the background: My channel Page. 13:29 "Everybody's gonna tell you how THEY do it....You do it the way your most comfortable for you to do." In other words; don't get over your head doing something you are not capable of doing! 14:19 "Remember, ask for help, but make sure the help that you get is good help, and it's not something you can't do!"
@@TomsTrainsandThings Thank you Tom. I still think, however, that telling a newbie "Get good advice, don't follow bad advice" is not helpful here, because how's a newbie going to know the difference between "good" and" bad" advice? It helps to be more specific. I think the best way to help a newbie here is to tell him or her "Join a local model railroad club or online group in your scale. Go to the meetings and visit the layouts so you can see how it's done and who does it best."
Those are excellent ideas, but not everyone has a model rr club nearby to join, and some of those online groups is where most of the bad information comes from. Everyone wants you to believe that their way is the only way to do things. I could have made a 2 hour long video explaining in great detail like you suggest, but then, who would want to watch a video that long!
if you run marx trains the BIGGEST mistake you can make is joining a model train forum, marx is really looked down on by ' collectors" if you dont spend $ 600 for an engine your treated like a peon.i got a message yesterday reminding me that i was on a MODEL train forum, not a toy train forum. in my opinion its not worth the bullshit you have to go through to join one of these online forums.
Hi Ben. I've found that a lot of forum members tend to be rude. I would't let it get under your skin, I'd move on to another group that's a little more kind. The same thing happens on Facebook groups at times where modelers thy to force their methods down your throat saying their's is the only way it should be done. I just ignore them and go on. It's your hobby, what you have is your decision. Enjoy what you do and most importantly.... Have Fun!
If your new to Model Railroading, you'll want to see what is in this Video. We've all made these mistakes when starting our model railroad, so don't feel alone if you made any of these.
Useful Tools For Your Model Railroad:
www.amazon.com/shop/tomstrainsandthings
Caboose hobbies
Leland Fultz yep, we were there last year before they closed.
I have a question, sholuld I break in the model train motors when I started a model railroad?
It's good to run them for a while in each direction at different speeds.
Toms Trains and Things gg,a
I started out not knowing much but I had a friend that had been model railroading for years and one Sunday after church he invited me over to his house to see his HO model railroad. After that visit I was hooked. I drew out on a piece of paper what I wanted and learned by trial & error how to wire a DC railroad and my friend, Jim (God rest his soul, died in 1999) helped me learn the basics. I started out with prefab steel & brass track and switches (turnouts). My curves were 18 inches and wouldn't even let me run a 4-8-4 northern engine. I had a double dogbone mainline with my smallest curves at 15 inches. It was completely flat and I soon tired of a flat layout. When we moved from GA to TN, I had to tear it all down and have not put together another layout to date. Wife wants to move off the mountain we live on, so once we move again, I plan to design another layout. I'm already building models, rolling stock kits and scratch building structures. Since I've collected enough Lionel 027 rolling stock & engines, I will be building 2 layouts, one for HO and the other O scale for the Lionel. I'm 73 and don't have a lot of time left, LOL. Cheers from eastern TN
Thanks for watching. Have fun with your model railroad
Been modeling HO scale for 35 years, a lot of these videos on UA-cam have a lot of bad info and advise. This is the first one that I've seen that gives great advise. I tell people all the time, if you're not having fun, you're not doing it right. People always want to jump into this hobby with their wallet and buy all sought of things, I always send them to the bookstore first to start reading. A mentor and homework, the only way to start this hobby and really enjoy it. 4x8 layouts seem small and boring, but they are great teaching tools to help develop your skills for what comes next.
TitoQuintana1 thanks for your comment, appreciate your input.
i've seen some fantastic N scale layouts on 4 X 8 tables...not boring at all, but as the scale gets larger- the boredom factor increases dramatically.
I am just about to start my first train set, I must say #10 is the best advice for someone like me, thank you
Glad to help! Have Fun!
Lots of great advice, and some of it confirms that I'm on the right track with a recent decision. I have been planning a large N scale layout for nearly a year, but have procrastinated mostly because I'm overwhelmed by so much of it. I recently decided instead to build a small shelf/switching layout. This will let me learn the basic skills that will later let me build larger layouts. I built the framework last weekend and laid the base layer of foam board yesterday. I'm a lot more excited about this now because it feels like something achievable. Hoping this will give me confidence to work up to building the bigger layout someday.
Glad you're finally getting started. That first step is always the hardest, so it will be all fun from now on. I'm always here if you have any questions
@@TomsTrainsandThings thanks, Tom!!
Very good points you have! The money thing is a point, too. I'm in my early 40's, with a wife, 4 year old little girl, a house, 2 car payments etc. And I'm working class. I've been out of it for 20+ years. Joined a club at church and now I'm back into it. Craigslist is your friend, at least in my area. I bought a 5x10 and 4x6 sections of benchwork for $35! Not only did that save me money but time. Now I'm laying my track on my nicely built, inexpensive platforms, creating an " L ". I did buy a few locomotives since my old ones, even after cleaning and lubing, were less than impressive. It can be done on a budget, just need to be patient yet persistent!
Thank you Joshua, anytime you can save money is great. I find a lot of items myself from Thrift stores and yard sales. I once bought an N Scale layout that had more value in the spare parts in the boxes that came with it that the layout itself. You never know what your going to run into.
Good advice, I currently am in the process of making most of these "mistakes" right now, but I do have patience. My top advice is join a model railway club near you if you have one. That way by association you will pick up many tricks and tips. And, while you are there, shut up and listen. That way you may make a few friends that may really be able to help you.
Thanks for our input!
Thank you for all of your videos. I'm seriously considering about getting into this hobby (i'm 58) and I'm trying to learn as much as I can before spending a single dollar. Your videos, as well as a lot of other peoples, are an immense help for us newbies. Don't worry about the haters, there are always those that have to find fault in others to make themselves feel good.
Glad I could help Loren
Hi Tom / The biggest mistake on my layout was, not painting the wall a sky blue and painting in clouds. I did this after all the bench work was done. I started my layout in 1983 with a start over in 1998, after moving to my present location. Gary 🚂
Thanks Gary, I made sure I painted my walls by matching the color on a few backdrops I had. The only thing I neglected was the ceiling. I ended up painting that a few years later.
gary- its a lot like building a car. first logical step is to draw up a job sheet (especially if you have co-creators) and that helps with sequencing the work to minimize interference and maximize work efficiency. the job sheet also helps co-creators by assigning jobs to a particular creator or group so everyone can work at tasks that suit them/or that they are perhaps best at doing. had you done that- you prolly would have caught your mistake and would have prepared the room (and above-layout lighting) before completing your benchwork, track work, and scenery. hey, tom! rob
One big mistake is avoiding those old Tyco, marx and AHM and varney models If you are on a budget and do not have a lot of money . they usually still still work great, or can be get up and running with a little drop of oil. Remember if it has been running like new for 60 years it is NOT junk!
I still have quite a few of those old ones that I remove from the box on occasion and run!.
Agreed. Most people avoid all old stuff which needs work... really that's where the money is. 5 bucks for a "crappy" boxcar that really just needs a dusting and wheel and coupler replacement. After all, all you need is the shell.
Thast's where the fun is, restoring those old items that everyone is tired of!
Indeed. The old Tyco Powertorque motors were a solid enough design... On paper. I once read an interview with the guy who designed them who recounted that the bean counters higher up had cut corners in the manufacture of them. Often times, metal and plastic flash and burrs were a big problem. Plus he originally designed BOTH trucks to be powered, not just one. I rebuilt a Tyco Super630 with dual motors, properly cleaned, oiled, lubed and all bearing surfaces clean and free of burrs and flash. It runs as quiet as a Kato diesel and pulls a pretty long train too! I run HO trains made as far back as the 1930s and find with basic care (The kind ANY model should receive) they will chug on for decades, holding their own against new production in pulling power. Here, the old heavy die cast parts work in their favor. I have a video of one of my Mantua 0-4-0 tank engines pulling FIFTEEN POUNDS of train like its nothing.
Steve Neubaum x
Thanks for your ten most common mistakes. My modeling ambitions lean toward WW2 military planes, ships, tanks etc. But planning and patience are excellent values for all modelers. Thanks again.
Glad I could be of help.
I received an MTH Amtrak Surfliner O gauge train set from my wife. I made a shelf layout above the door and window of my office. The curves are O-36 to run all my O gauge trains. Now I'm looking at O scale Superliner cars that run on O-54 curves. I wish I had gone with the larger radius turns, but I didn't want the shelf sticking out from the wall and closing in on me. People say to go with scale instead of gauge, but you can't really tell the difference looking way up at the train. Sigh...
We learn from our mistakes 🤔
Thanks Tom for all your modeling insight and genuine interest in the hobby and your willingness to share it!!
Your welcome Leo. I love what I'm doing.
@@TomsTrainsandThings tom- you have an impressive space for your trains- bigger than our clubhouse (we have two N scale layouts).
Hey Tom. Thought I'd get back to you regarding my problems I had with my Digitrax PR3. After checking my connections and the unit still not working as I expected, I broke down and bought a DCS240. It already has a USB interface, and setup was a SNAP. After it's setup, I have had NO troubles using my JMRI and updating CVs with it. It did solve all of my problems I was having using JMRI. Thanks for your encouragement to get / be a better model railroader.
Glad you found a solution to your issues. It cost a little more but at least your up and running again. Glad you kept us updated. Thank you!
Hey Tom,
Thank you very, very much for these nice warnings against beginner mistakes, I did sometimes, too in the past.
My actually imperial prussian railroad project is my second modular project.
Still I don't even have the space to model more than two or thee modules of shortly more than one yard in length, in metric 100 cm or 1 meter long.
I had choosen the H0 (half zero) Scale of 1:87, it works very well for me over the last 40 years. I started with AC third rail power but changed into international DC in 1984, since than I am DC model Railroader and well around one decade before I decided to change into DCC operation with the Austrian Roco DCC Command Station...a tetrible box with handheld throttle as command station and CVs could not read out. That gave lot of difficulties by programming but it worked on.
In thr last weeks I made a setup zo the z21 Start Command Station, using my oldef equipment as boosters and using the cable wired handheld throttles but it works much better and now I can read out the CVs....I am happy with it.
For my three modules it is well enough and more than a handful locos I do not need for this shortline's Endstation at a seaside subburb.
My favourite Era is the summer of the year of 1908 at northern germany at the City of Luebeck, what was not part of the Prussian Kingdom, a very funny project.
Luebeck is still known the metropolitan city of Marzipan or Organ Music, Johann Sebastian Bach studied here chorch organ music at St. Mary's Church around 337 yesrs ago. Luebeck is also known as the german headquarter of Campbell Soups her sold under the german brand name Erasco.
In 1853 a local private stockholder RR opened their Service to connect Buechen at Prussia. This real RR opened their subburb line to the seaside of the baltic east sea in 1883.
Sure it had a busy marshalling yard to handle mest cars coming from a busy slaughterhouse in 1908 by 30 cars daily and in 1912 by 60 cars daily.
Me I cannot show this big humpyard so me need to model the more interesting countryside depots and one fictional smal traject station with ferry boat landing.
At Waldhusen (Forestvillage) a cemetry was existing with teamtrack onto cemetry...like at London in Great Britain, but much more smaller.
It gave special burial cars, some baggage cars to transport coffins with the RR and in deep sympathy travelling family members aboard of it sitting inside a comfortable heated compartment.
Freight service did in mixed trains.
A small but fine project.
We all learn from our mistakes. Sounds like a nice layout
I wish I could have the same space in layout like yourself, but my actually living situation does not allow me to model more than three short modules...but the modules a great to be shown in train shows, when becoming connected with other friends layouts to run own trains onto a very large module arrangement.
So still I am modelling some running tracks in single and double line with a junction tower where two tracks at the left side and one track at the right side.
The interesting thing is the junction for itself, controlled by mechanical levers with working ,,saxby & farmer" cascade interlocking register. The ,,Saxby & Farmer" patent was done in 1857 at London in Great Britain, the ,,motherland" of railway or railroad engineering worldwide.
I have 7 levers only to control this junction tower and junction module.
The junction modele is in the middle and has got two turnouts and three semaphore signals. The needed ,,repeater" ahead standing distant signals are controlled by electric machanical operation onto the layout but at the prototype by mechanical double line steel signal wire cords.
The Prussian Type Distant Signals were green round Disks showing a green light in Danger Position stop onto next Signal.
If it will showing a white light when the round Disk will be horizontal that means the Line is Clear.
Yes it gave lot of terrible Accidents by missunderstanding the green light as ,,Danger" signal, so the state Railroad decided to change that distant signal and light colour in the year into yellow in the year of 1935.
I have two blue levers for two turnouts, one black lever for the lock lever of both turnouts. Two red and white levers to control the both signal arms onto signal A to use the junction track to the left and to control in other direction the one signal arm onto signal C.
Two red levers to control the upper Semaphore Arm of Signal A for the Main or in other direction to control the signal B onto the Main. Alltogether 4 Signal arms onto three signals.
The more difficult thing is the block apparatus, it is a little more complicated than others, because of using 10 electrical fields. It does working like the prototype operation, but is more a show feature but not really needed for my own railroad operation, it can be switched off.
It works as an additional railway interlocking safety apparatus onto train shows, what we are planning to do here.
Modules are the way to go in limited spaces. T Trak is even smaller modules designed specifically for situations like yours.
Look at my video from the train show I did last week in Tallahassee, nearly all the layouts were T Trak in various scales.
Very good advice. Years ago I started way to big and never finished. Ended up moving. Had to take apart a dream.
Thank You. I moved an unfinished section of a layout from house to house only because I never had the time to finish. But, there are many that do start too big and get overwhelmed.
Boy there are mean people out there. Remember when they said "if you don't have anything nice to say"..?. Meanwhile I have enjoyed this video again. I got lost in RC airplanes but hope to build a scenic layout inside of a work/storage bench in N-scale.
I inherited absolutely tons of stuff, 20+ locos, 80+ rolling stock, roughly 200 feet of track and switches and even structures. Talk about overwhelming...lol thats the understatement of the millennium. I have basic wiring knowledge and creativity to build something but one thing is holding me back. Patience
This video has made me think of going about it in a small way and build something...ill be back to report where things are. Anyway thank you
You have a good head start in everything you have. The most important thing is to have fun. It takes time, a lot of time. Enjoy the steps as you go.
I still have my original 2x4 oval layout incorporated into my final design as an "end point". My advice is to build in sections you can unbolt so if you move, the railroad does not have to be destroyed. AND there is nothing wrong with using older equipment you can afford and not using grades at all. My 15 x7 U shaped layout is all "flat" but it has the appearance of leaving a river port area and moving into pine tree filled montains. I also still use rapido couplers in N scale because FOR ME, they are easier to work with and maintain than all the various brands of knuckle couplers that may or may not work with each other. Last bit of advice is the best: just have fun, don't make it into a job or monster you become a slave to just to keep trains running. :)
My last layout I did in sections, open grid, cookie cutter and modules. The Modules were by far the easiest to disassemble. The open grid, I had to destroy, could not save any of it except the track which I ended up pulling up before destroying everything else. I did save some of the lumber though. My current layout is all Modules. I still have one section from the old layout to add to iit that was cookie cutter.
I hope someone commented, "Make SURE you take time to have FUN!"
That's the most important part of the hobby.
Hi Tom
Probably the best thing for beginners is to start with simple DC trains not DCC with DC you can get the basic skills learn from basic books build simple tunnels, mountains out of boxes (shoe boxes), cardboard strips ,grass mat,mountain paper,etc ways to try to keep the layout cheap and simple and fun til the money n time,n skills allows you to move on to a bigger step
Thanks Rodney for your insight. Much appreciated!
Ive made a lot of those mistakes, but i slowed down and now my railway is Going perfectly
We all learn from our mistakes. I made all of these, some more than once.
VERY good advice - very wise words. I used to have a "Nickel Plate Road" Lionel set I worked on with my grandfather when I was much, much younger. I wish I had the money to continue today. As a child, I did not have a sense of the price involved, especially with O-gauge Lionel trains. I've thought about buying a starter HO kit and rebuilding.
I've rebuilt many times.
Nice tips. I've been researching how to plan layouts and wire for DCC. Some common mistakes beginners make is trying to cram too much track into a given space, and making curve radii too tight.
Thant's for sure. Thanks Joshua
A long time ago a friends family had moved dozens of times building, enjoying, expanding their layout until they found a nice house with a HUGE basement that they could run 12 individual trains (1 per guest) while his father sat in an elevated booth, overseeing the others (within lakes, buildings, mountains, etc...) run their assigned routes. ;-)
That is most modelers dream to do so, but many never have the opportunity.
You mentioned "BUYING a lot of Locomotives and rolling stock" You are SO right..I also did that. I think alot of us have..START small.
Thanks Terry. Yes, when I was young I had twice as many locos as I did rolling stock. Some of them are still in the box.
Terry Lefevre Us too the three of us have literally 3500 locos and nearly 8 thousand Rolling stock Across 15 Railroads.This does represent a lifetime of education and a vast knowledge from road trips and hands on the real thing....👍
@@model-man7802 At $250 for a dcc loco I'm not likely to afford more than a couple for quite a while.
Thanks Tom, I’m 22 and just starting out my model set. So far so good. As being a young buck, patience is something I have very minimal of. But, I do love the hobby! It’s relaxing to do after coming back from work.
Great to hear your interested in model railroading. How about posting some videos of your progress when you have a chance.
ok 1 u dont have to have a particular area of the world to build 2 i have my own designs i like 3 im not an will not go through the added expense of having to buy all kinds of crap i really dont want or need my current layout is 3ft wide x 9ft long and im adding a 2nd an 3rd level to it and didnt cost me hardly nothing but i agree totally with everything u said on avoiding the mistakes except the building a particular part of the world or country side u want to build i feel anyone should have the free right an vision to build a layout the way they want it an not have to get every little detail that comes with building a particular rail yard or town or city
Thank you William
Tom, When soldering track, for a curve using flex, it can be a problem bending the curve with the wires in place. The rails have to slide thru the members and get hung up on the wires...if they are placed when the track is straight.
Would it be better to solder the bottom of the rails so the members are not in the way?
Bob
Bob, feeder wires are generally soldered after the track is in place. As far as soldering the side of the track in place while it's straight, you normally remove a few ties or slide them far enough away to not interfere while bending. The soldered joint will not move very far while bending flex track. You can always slide ties under the rail once the track is in place.
Hi Tom I’m 14 and have always loved model trains i have a Bachman Chattanooga HO Scale Ready Run Electric Train Set and a manual turnout expansion set I’m experimenting which placing the figures and buildings and building tunneled and bridges from game gases and tissue boxes do you think this is a good time and way to begin
Noah, that is an excellent way to begin. There are a lot of modelers that use paper or cardboard mock ups to represent buildings and other items around their railroad. I also have the Bachman Chattanooga set, I used the EZ track to visualize how my layout would look. The train set goes under my Christmas Tree every year. Post some videos of your progress whenever you have a chance.
Good points! I was thinking that the obvious mistake was trying to do too much too soon!
That's another good one Eric. My list keeps growing. I did a 5 more mistakes video, I should do a top 20 mistakes or maybe 25 if I can remember some more of the mistakes I made. lol
Hey Tom --- Nothing wrong with making mistakes ... as long as we can admit to them. (LOL!!)
Hi Tom!
I'm not sure if you still read this - I hope you do! I adore trains, used to have a model when I was younger. I'm looking at running some 4-6-2s with long passenger rolling stock - what's the safe minimum radius you'd recommend? If you have video covering this of course I'd be keen to see
Most manufacturers would say a minimum 18" radius. But in my opinion, it doesn't look right. I use a minimum 22" radius and that's just in the tight spots. I try to widen the curves as much as the space permits.
New Ray Used to make a bunch of battery operated HO scale trains and acessories that can be easily modified. They even had Painted figurines, operating acessories like Car ferry ships, scale model cars, figurines or many kinds, signs, Gas stations, construction equipment and it was actually better than the "model" versions of the same stuff.
They even had a crane that could pick hut stuff and load it on a flatcar hand operated but it worked great and was easy to put togeather.
Thanks for your information Raymond!
I want to build an N Scale RR and I want to build a Heilo to gain height and layers. I can not find a kit or details on how to do it with a grade that is not crazy.
I am glad you made this video
ua-cam.com/video/_Ct9Fx4xqys/v-deo.html
Tom, a bit off topic, i've never really been interested in Programming, as i'm a mech eng (nail bender) but now using Rasberry Pi and Arduino, think I should learn. Are you aware of any simple step tutors so I can have a go? bearing in mind my last involvement in programming was Punched Fortran cards at College, with too many syntax errors.
I have a series of videos, "Arduino Made Easy(er)" ua-cam.com/play/PLjjhnrIKSTShFFhwZFyxncfIcL0eUYaBb.html
All great issues to avoid. But half the learning experience is making your own mistakes. Changes? Model railroaders never make changes. LOL Keep up the great work with the videos!
I'm an authority on mistakes. lol
Hi Tom. I live in a apartment with a rather larg basement to build my layout in. However I can't make my layout permanent. Therefore I need it to be modular. I'm planning on building modular tables that are 3' wide by 4' feet long. I know you said not to build your tables along the wall and that it won't work. I'm wondering what options I have. Thanks for the video and all the advice.
Todd, your confusing modules with tables. Yes I said not to put table after table along the wall. Before that I said put your modules against the wall if you want. Modules are typically a uniform size so most if not all modules built can be interchanged except for the end modules that have the curves. I have a couple of videos on benchwork in the Model Railroading for Beginners playlist that you can reference for building your benchwork. I have a 10X17Ft layout against the wall that is free standing everywhere except where it is built over the stairwell.
Thank you Tom! 3 mins before the 1st mistake, I believe was a good test for those who don't know if they have the patience for the hobby. If people are impatient with the first three minutes before getting into the first mistake, I can just only imagine how many broken train parts and engines they will have!
Thanks Aaron. The first three minutes was bonus material for the beginners who have the patience to sit through it. lol. Some people just don't have any patience at all.
Aaron F, Please read this line over and over for 3 minutes before you continue to the next one. I have loads of patience, but not for rambling.
Well, yes, maybe a test of patience. But primarily because he says the same thing several times in that 3 minutes.
I' d rather spend that 3 minutes building the layout, than listening to continuous repetition of the same thing over and over... The video is too long. You could say the same things in 5 minutes.
Really good advice. I’m planning on making a three tiered HO layout in a 20x20 sized room. So that means I have to loop my track at least one revolution for a 2 % grade depending on my gap between my tiers. The part that I am stuck on is whether I build a tier at a time or I build the skeleton all at once and fill it in as I go?
Jim Marsch thank you. I would build all the benchwork first. Post some videos of your progress
Tom, I just found this and my opinion it was a great video. I wish I had found this before I started my layout. Great advice! Choo Choo Eddie🚂🚂🚂
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Tom. Very helpful and informative. Can you please advise on using HO code 83 vs. HO code 100 track. My family gave me a Bachmann 4-8- 4 engine (new) set for Christmas and now runs on code 100 steel track. I am planning a larger layout probably using Atlas code 83 nickel silver. I am not sure about using Atlas turnouts and probably will use Walthers or Micro Engineering for smoother operation. Any advice? Thanks so much. I like your channel.
Thanks Andrew. Check out some of my other videos on track and turnouts. You can mix just about anything with the same code. I use code 100 on portions of my layout when I had it left over from years past. The rest of my layout is code 83.
Lol, it's like groundhog day! "I'm going to tell you top 10 mistakes of new model railroaders..." loops over & over for the first 3 min.
Good movie
loved the advice, and I do have questions to ask of any with decoder experience. I'm having a massive string of bad luck with decoders! I recently installed a lok select micro v.4 in an N scale SD9 it runs ..... BUT...... :
1) The prime mover sound won't throttle up past the first notch.
2) None of the other extra sounds will play ( spitters, compressor, dyn brake, sander, etc). Only the engine, horn, and bell play ( of which I can't seem to change either).
3) The speaker makes a hissing noise only when a sound plays. And it's a very audible hiss just about as loud as the engine and it's an 8 ohm speaker.
I've done factory reset a number if times but it's the same deal. Everything is wired up, soldered cleanly and I used Kapton tape where necessary. Any help is appreciated if anyone knows what is causing these issues.
Thank you for your question. Many times the most obvious issue is the cause of the problem, what ends up more times than any other issue is bad connections. The easiest way to troubleshoot your problem is to set up a test track with good clean track with soldered wires coming from your command station. This eliminates any possible bad connections on your layout. Sound decoders need a good clean DCC signal to operate efficiently. If it still doesn't work after using a test track, you can have a bad decoder or a bad connection within your locomotive.
Do you have an ESU decoder tester? Best solution to test your decoder.
Did you test the decoder before installing it in the locomotive?
What Command Station are you using? Is it compatible with the extra sound functions available on the decoder.
What size bus wires are you running? If they're too small, you may not have a strong enough signal.
Are all connections solid? One bad connection can affect your entire layout, even if other decoders work well on your layout.
Thank you for replying! So to answer your questions as best as I can: I have a test track and it's wired up pretty solidly (although I will revisit it to make sure.) I'm using the NCE Powercab and my bus is 14 gauge wire. I know the sound functions work as I have two Kato units with MRC sound and they work just fine with no issues. I am starting to wonder if the sound files are somehow just not there? Is that possible? I mean the engine sound plays. It cranks up and shuts down, it's just not revving with the notches.
Unfortunately I don't have a lok programmer or tester but am not sure If I want to invest in one right now. This is my only lok decoder and I don't currently plan on expanding my fleet past the 5 trains I have. Not unless I decide to replace the decoders in all of them. As far as testing before installing , no I didn't =/. I can easily remove it to see but I expect the same result as my connections are pretty solid. It's something to try though.
As far as the speaker goes, what would usually cause the speaker to make hissing noises? I actually have this issue with a digitrax decoder as well and both are using 8 ohm speakers. The decoder itself works fine. I know the track is clean cause I just recently cleaned it last week and the loco rolls with no stutters.
It's possible the sound files are corrupt or missing. If you can interface with your computer, there is a program Sound Pro that comes with JMRI. I've never used it myself, but it may be worth a try to see if you can access the sound files from there to see what the problem is. Also, You can use Decoder Pro to see what all your CV's are set to.
The speaker hissing could be coming from interference. Try turning off other devices nearby to see if it stops.
The ESU decoder tester can be used to test decoders from any manufacturer. I just bought one myself, but haven't used it yet.
With all good connections, your best bet is something is wrong with the decoder.
Hope you find a solution, and if you do, please let us know what you find in case others come across the same situation.
Im getting back into moddeling again, my base is going to be plywood and when i set the track, i see a lot of people use use wood glue. is this recommended or should i use nails?
I normally nail the tracks in place and the only time I use glue is when laying the ballast. There are many ways to do it, some use glue, some use latex caulking. It's a matter of preference. Many times I adjust the positioning of the track before I ballast so it would be very difficult if I glued them down.
Ok Tom Thanks! I may use nails and when the track is where i want it prolly use both for extra strenght
Tom a great video.
Where did U get the green screen?
That concept is really unique.
Let's see more of this type of videos.
I am an experienced model Railroader. Yes I have built layouts and even helped with club layouts.
Age 6 I had my figure 8 Lionel layout in my bedrom.I have learned much about modeling and many forms. The two most important I live by in my modeling is.
Learn all you can about the subject even before you purchase anything. And never ever be afraid to make mistakes or even to start over.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and insights with us.
Take care and God bless
Thanks James.
Link for green screen: www.amazon.com/shop/tomstrainsandthings
I have nearly 400 videos to choose from. Check out my playlist's for additional subjects.
Great video mate. Love your closing statement. So true...
Thank you Chris. A lot of modelers forget it's suppose to be Fun!
N scale is really good if your living in a apartment such as myself, also researched the different brand and types, going with ez track and watched the video and took it all in lol
EZ track is a good choice.
When I built my first layout I knew space and money was going to be an issue so I came up with a very small layout 3 1/2 by 7 feet and I made it not on a bench it was a small platform you could place on the floor or a table. It was also made too be picked up by two people and put into the back of an SUV or truck. So I made it mobile enough too be moved.
Good decisions!
What a great video Tom! This will help out all the new beginners and me.
Thanks John, glad I can be of help!
love the enthusiasm man, really helped me thanks :)
Glad it helped!
Tom,
Installing an incline with a laser - - -
It can be daunting to lay in an incline, especially a long one without dips or bumps and get it exactly at a specified grade - - usually 2% is highly recommended.
Well, how can this be easily done - - with a household laser from a big box store.
Mount your laser head on a camera tripod if possible. Zero out the device for level in both directions. Now locate the zero point of the incline and mark it. Now project the other end of the incline, say, to rise to 2 inches. Divided the rise of the incline 2 inches by .02(%) and you will get a run of 100 inches. Place the second stick at this point and mark it at 2 inches up.
Set up the laser and set the bottom end of the beam at the zero point. Adjust the angle of the beam until it rests on the 2 inch mark at the right end. You have a 2% grade.
Assemble your incline along this laser beam and your incline will be dead on.
This works great for an elevated reversing loop at the top of the grade as the beam will shoot along 2 right angle walls if set up right.
If you really want to do yourself a huge favor , buy ANYRail design software and license it for $60.00. All the pain of bench work and track layout design, with clearances and elevations, will disappear, including building a helix. Best piece of software I every bought. If it will not fit on this track plan, it will not fit on your benchwork - -period. Set bridges, mountains, scenic elements - -plan building space - -etc. Lay out yards, sidings, spurs, switches, smooth curves, lay in easements, the works. Full track library of all brands. Or print the tracks out and past them together. Lay the cutouts on the benchwork for a paper mockup of your entire railroad if you wish. Dead nuts accurate. Lay sub roadbed right over the paper!
Most elevated reversing loops need about an 8 inch clearance to look right. This works out to the fact that you need an incline of about 400 inches . . . .just do the math. Wait a minute, AnyRail will do it all for you! The pain is gone!!
Bob
Thanks Robert. That would be an entire episode in itself!
Great video thanks for the help! 2:11 is where the list starts
Thank you for your comment.
THANK YOU...for sharing. WOW...I think I made all ten mistakes plus more :) but I had fun doing it. Scott Cameron said it right-MONEY- better set yourself a budget and stick to it.
Thanks Gary. The most important aspect is to have fun with it!
It's a challenge to have planned everything so you know how to do everything befroe you start, and yet not to be fixated by planning everything to the n'th degree. At some point, you have to just start laying some track. Experiment; have your first loop running different underlays, so you know which is quietest, most reliable, easiest to weather, etc.
Build your first section as a module that you can use in your next layout; even if you start with an Inglenook, you can have that shunting puzzle still fully active in your next layout. And you may be able to make more than one module to fit that space, so can change era or region; this is planning ahead to increase scope, rather than to define the (only) road that you can follow.
Thanks for your input Tom. I had a section of layout that I moved to three different houses through the years, I finally had to rip it up when it got destroyed in storage. I have a follow up video coming up shortly with a few more items.
If your have a pc an the trainz game or similar it helps a lot in the plan stage.
Very nice video and fun to watch. Have a nice day.
Thank you Kurt
Great info. Thank you very much. Glad I ran across your Video.
Jack Baker glad you enjoyed it
Patients,commitment and have fun..sounds more like a relationship with my family,lol.
This is true. lol
look at second hand market.... it is a long term FUN hobby...if you want it to be.
Long term is correct. I've been in the hobby for nearly 60 years.
Train shows are the best
Just some general advice when someone approaches you with a problem, I always ask to see the problem for myself before offering help. If I can see what's wrong I can offer better help than just going off of what I'm told. I apply this to almost everything when someone needs help.
Thanks for your input!
ALL great points Tom!! As far as asking for help.... You really want to make sure that you know who you're asking, and can trust his/her knowledge.
THAT, can save you a LOT of time, effort, and money!
Money really is an issue. For what a newcomer is forced to pay for even a basic BACHMANN Train Set, with maybe a couple of extra accessories....
I could have built *TWO* of my original 4' x 16' Layouts in 1976! INCLUDING the Trains, Track, Power, Buildings, AND even the LUMBER!! 😱
Back then, unless you were in O Scale... Model Railroading really WAS a great leisure time activity, that nearly ANYONE could do.
Now, it's an incredible investment.
Me and Carmine are SO glad that we bought most of our equipment *before* the mid-90's.
Murph
You'll notice I had my channel page in the background when I mentioned asking for help from someone you can trust.
The picture of yourself behind you is hilarious!
Thanks Ray!
The biggest mistake is probably trying to bite off more than you can do.
The second is probably starting to do scenery before all the base elements are running properly.
The third is likely lackof access o hidden track. And that can mean things besides tunnels or helices. Industrial sites with buildings close to the track on both sides.
Some of these problem stem from magazine issues and books. Everybody loves the articles on the super layouts. What I call the John Allen or Gorre & Dephaited Effect. At the same time the beginner will ignore the how to articles
Thanks for the input.
I think I have down all of these lol I don't normally get a 100% on things, but I nailed this one!!
I've made everyone of those mistakes and more. Some several times over!
Good advice Tom. My wife you a big thumbs on the financial part.
Thank you!
Woohoo! I hit all 10 points at one time in my life! What do I win? Great video Tom. Mistake #11 - letting your dog in the train room and he eats your favourite Tom's Trains n Things hat that you bought off Amazon. -Mark
Congratulations, join the ever increasing club of modelers who are normal! lol We can't help ourselves. I like your #11. You can do a top 10 list of why there are "No Dogs In The Train Room."
M&M Rails lol!
This guy seems Canadian levels of niceness
Tom, Any idea where to find s scale trolleys. I have a 30 foot upper shelf and want to run a city scene with trolleys.
thanks
bob
That's a hard item to find Robert. I'll check around to see if I can locate one.
aren't Corgi diecast trolleys 1/64 scale? and I believe somebody makes a powering kit for them- perhaps hollywood foundry. I bought a lot of locomotives (N scale- about 50) and have about a hundred pieces of rolling stock. i love to work on the locomotives. Love Japan-made locomotives. N scaler since '72.
Hi Tom, the corgi is 1/48 scale. I read somewhere that one was modified by a modeler to run on S scale track.
Many Lionel O-27 offerings tended to have bodies very close to S scale. You could almost call it what American Flyer did before WWII: 3/16 O scale. Depending on what era of trolley car you want, the 4 wheel Lionel Birney car could be kitbashed into an S scale car. I'd say narrow the carbody slightly, and mount it on an S chassis. If you can get two bodies, kitbashing them together would yield a good looking 8 wheel car. Beyond that, a number of toy car makers made their stuff at or close to 1:64. I don't know if any did trolley cars, but that's something to keep an eye out for. You'd have to build a powered mechanism of course.
Thanks very much for looking into this for me. Unfortunately, the helix was so tight and steep that the grade was over 3.3. The engine alone could not pull this grade.
That is when I created the RGBLED lighting valance out of the old shelf. I now have a double reverse loop system with a 3 track yard, passing siding, 3 spurs, and 1 industrial siding...all in 16' , turn, 13 feet , turn, and 8 feet turn..
bob
Excellent video Tom, as with all your videos...Simon (In the UK)
Thank you very much Simon!
Lots of great information. I can't count how many mistakes I made and that is after watching a ton of YT videos. I would hate to see what the layout would have looked like if there was no videos to watch and help from the community.
Thanks Scott. I made all 10 and then some. I'll be doing another video shortly with a few more mistakes!
Some great advice there. I would have made the mistake of going too big if I didn’t move house earlier this year. was originally working on a 12x9 layout with 2 levels and it was a bit much; now because the limited space I’m doing a 4x9 layout and it’s progressing just fine :)
AnthonyRailwayB thanks for the comment, sometimes our eyes are bigger than our efforts. I was in the same boat as you.
I think a lot of model railroader's need to also do the old school thumb test when it comes to track testing as well. I see a lot of bad tracklaying here on youtube.
That definitely would put a kink in your plans. lol
Thanks for the tips
Glad I could help
Great advice thanks
Your welcome
hi Tom , great video with good information starting at 3:04 for highlighting mistakes for new railroaders. may I just point out that if you have too much stock then this can be solved by putting an extra engine on.
hi Tom... you have brought up some very good points... i think i have made several of those mistakes... i hope this video will help the new comers to the hobby.. thanks for sharing.. vinny
Thanks Vinny. That's my hope that the new comers can learn something from my viceos.
bnsf6951 b
Lol, I just started my layout and I've made almost all these mistakes.
I think everyone has!
I really want to get into model trains and the whole world of it. I've watched tons of vids on youtube and sometimes it seems over whelming and not sure if I can do it. I watch some vids and think to myself, that seems easy and then I see a couple more and I think, I cant do that. i'm not really sure.
Donald, the first step is the hardest, that's getting started. Best advice is just get started in the hobby. Start out small and do what you know how to do . There is no pressure to build something you can't. Take your time and have fun. That's the most important thing!
I want to remove over-sized railing. Any tips without breaking them off?
Kevin are you working in wood or plastic or some other material?
Tom, it was a plastic loco. I saw a video suggesting freezing the shell, and gently pulling the railing off/out. It was a snap! The railing shattered and snapped. : )
Never heard that one. I'll have to try it. Thanks.
Not everyone can do it, Tom. I have a lifetime's experience.
i have over 300.... no probs, people, help the industry and keep your self happy...just keep on thinking where to keep, how to MAINTAIN, even if it is in back of closet... do what you want...be free, be happy....it is a HOBBY...no rules...Enjoy !
Thank you for your comment. Exactly, have fun and enjoy!
i made nearly all of these mistakes when i started
I think everyone has made those mistakes, but most don't admit it.
Yea patients and planning I'd say are key. I know my first layout was rushed and wiring was messed track wasn't done decent and ended up scraping it
I think we all did the same on our first layouts Nicholas. lol
Second layout is taking longer but the end result is a functional layout:)
I rushed into my track laying and have to deal with derailment
I have seen layouts with as much track as possible crammed and shoehorned into all of the available table space. There wasn't room for roads or even an outhouse sized building. Running trains is great, but overkill is like anything else, soon lose interest when all you can do/see are trains.
I've seen those also. Overkill
Thank god for 'fast forward' !!
Thank god I can delete comments!
hello tom, can i use one one turnout controller for two turnouts?
Hi Pong. What controller are you planning on using? Some can handle two, while others can't.
i’m using kato unitrack,-thanks
by the way, will it not burn my controller? thanks tom
Take a look at this article, you will need a momentary contact switch: www.fiferhobby.com/how-to-make-kato-turnout-control-switches/
Toms Trains and Things thank you again tom
"....not so many locomotives unless you're gonna have a display shelf..."
[X] Thank you! Good answer! John, Age 49 MRR since age 8.
[X] Have Fun! Perfect.
Thank You John
Hehehe...If you’re not quite ready to listen to the Top 10 mistakes beginners make, start from the beginning, cause then maybe you’ll be ready by 2:22 😀😜😂. You know I’m just teasing with you! 👌🏻
Bonus info at the beginning as always.
I like the idea of building modules. Build a module at a time, and it stops from being too big at once.
That's a great idea Simon
Nice video. I also believe that "it is your railroad model so you are the boss".
Sometimes there is so much advice that it could be overwhelming and this could also pushes newcomers away from the hobby.
NXCALE thank you, that's what I always stress in my videos; it's your railroad, do what you want.
The only thing that matters is if you are happy with it.
I agree with you!
thanks Tom good information
Your welcome Matthew
Just started with my model train layout good to know what mistakes not to make planning and patience the key I think
You got that right
Great video
calvinthedestroyer Thank you
i see money brought up as one problem, I have the wife, kid, house, 2 cars, and I still find the money for my hobby. I think it all comes down to time, you have to take the time to SAVE the money you need for the products you want. put away 25$ a week,, or 30$ a week, till you can get it. money is only the problem when you say I want I want, then ya.. no one can afford this hobby. many great things to buy.
It is a hobby that you have to take your Time with, from laying the track to buying a loco. It all takes nothing more than TIME
Well Dave, I guess there's always going to be someone that complains about how expensive everything is and they can't do it. It's always been Time for me. All my kids were in several sports and I always had two jobs until I started our business so there was never enough time to finish what I started. I always made an attempt to get a layout started in the basement, some attempts went further than others but the money part was never an issue. If I didn't have enough money for something, not just in model railroading, I worked longer hours to get what I wanted. Now that I'm retired I have all the time in the world, yea right, I'm doing these videos about model railroading and getting some train time too.
I agree. It is about budget and planning. Scenery is an area where you can save money, because, with a little creativity almost any item can be used to create realistic scenery. I bought a blender at the thrift store for cheap and have ground everything from leaves, eraser, twigs, eggshells, etc. in it and have used things like baking powder and inexpensive pastel chalks to create excellent and realistic looking scenery. I have been in the hobby over 40 years and we did not have the advantage of everything pre manufactured. Get creative and experiment with things, learn to do it yourself instead of depending on others.
Thanks Mark. Have to be resourceful when you don't have the available products!
I've made them all, in HO that's probably why I dislike HO it was my trial scale, thanks for sharing.
Haven't we all. Some just don't like to admit it. Thanks Zane.
well said
Thank you
Is a rapid 1 year expansion of the fleet of cars bad
That all depends on how many cars Mikel. How many are we talking about here? lol
Look out for bargains. I bought 10 or 12 PRR box cars from Bowser-Stewart a year or two back that they were selling off cheap.
I mad e these mistakes at least once or twice
Unfortunately, Ii made all those mistakes more than a few times. lol
I have not received any of your videos on my gmail account since august?
UA-cam quit sending out email notifications long ago. I'm surprised you got them till August. In order to be notified, you must have the notifications enabled on your cell phone& the bell notification on your browser checked with the option ALL notifications. They had this requirement for a few years now, but slowly removing all other forms of notification.
I think the topic is a great idea and I like the way you use backgrounds but the specific topics are rather vague and some are downright inconsistent. For example, in #9, you say "ask for help" but then you say, ignore the advice because you'll get a dozen different pieces of advice so just use what seems right for you and also that seems like something you can do. So which is it? Get advice, or ignore the advice you get? Or just "go with your gut?"
At 12:45 I state "Don't accept bad advice" 13:08 "Make sure you know somebody that will give you good advice." Notice the background: My channel Page. 13:29 "Everybody's gonna tell you how THEY do it....You do it the way your most comfortable for you to do." In other words; don't get over your head doing something you are not capable of doing! 14:19 "Remember, ask for help, but make sure the help that you get is good help, and it's not something you can't do!"
@@TomsTrainsandThings Thank you Tom. I still think, however, that telling a newbie "Get good advice, don't follow bad advice" is not helpful here, because how's a newbie going to know the difference between "good" and" bad" advice? It helps to be more specific. I think the best way to help a newbie here is to tell him or her "Join a local model railroad club or online group in your scale. Go to the meetings and visit the layouts so you can see how it's done and who does it best."
Those are excellent ideas, but not everyone has a model rr club nearby to join, and some of those online groups is where most of the bad information comes from. Everyone wants you to believe that their way is the only way to do things. I could have made a 2 hour long video explaining in great detail like you suggest, but then, who would want to watch a video that long!
Tom, I've no doubt that a guy with your experience and commitment can make an excellent 15 or 20-minute video on "how to get help."
I have over 400 videos to help modelers
if you run marx trains the BIGGEST mistake you can make is joining a model train forum, marx is really looked down on by ' collectors" if you dont spend $ 600 for an engine your treated like a peon.i got a message yesterday reminding me that i was on a MODEL train forum, not a toy train forum. in my opinion its not worth the bullshit you have to go through to join one of these online forums.
Hi Ben. I've found that a lot of forum members tend to be rude. I would't let it get under your skin, I'd move on to another group that's a little more kind. The same thing happens on Facebook groups at times where modelers thy to force their methods down your throat saying their's is the only way it should be done. I just ignore them and go on.
It's your hobby, what you have is your decision. Enjoy what you do and most importantly.... Have Fun!
This is why I've avoided forums. I have a bunch of older AHM and TYCO and I get enough heck for it in person, let alone online.
I'm buying strictly brass or diecast locomotives so I'm good on over buying locos lol
That will definitely deter buying a lot of locomotives. lol
Thanks for this information. My plan is to build a 4ft.x10ft. layout. Like you said build within your means and room size.
Bobby Davis make sure you post some videos of your progress.