Another impressive video my man! You can also purchase allen head sockets and a click type torque wrench from harbor freight for relatively cheap if you’re not sure if it’s at the right specifications. I’m assuming that’s 25 ft lbs of torque versus inches correct?
I don't have a pedal drive, I mounted a electric motor on mine. It is the ascend 12t so it doesn't have any drive system. This is a nice video on how to maintain the drive on those, you explain it in good detail. Good work man 👍.
What are your thoughts on getting a cheap alternative like a BKC PK13? I'm looking for my first kayak and this kayak seems like it's only half the price of other brands. I know it doesn't come with all the bells and whistles, but it gets me into a pedal drive at a relatively inexpensive price.
This is probably not the best place for this comment, but I watch a lot of your videos and thought this was a good time to ask. Thanks for the content!
You can also look into doing what I did and get a cheaper sit on top and add a trolling motor on the back or off to the side. I have the ascend 12t from a few years ago. It does the job nice for me. Just another option you can look at.
My best friend’s older brother had one for 1/4 of a season. He hated it. Also hated the pedal drive, not sure wat else but he did had the chance to try out an old town pdl, native, and hobie. So maybe he was comparing it to those. Edit: something about the drive being belt driven instead of gear driven and ratio is only 8:1 compared to old town 10:3 and native’s 10:1.
Just wondering the temperature rating of the greese lube you was using. Is there a crank sealant or gasket that needs replaced to keep water out. ( sorry thinking too much about work)
Hey Lowlife, there was rubber gaskets around upper assembly and lower cartridges. Here's the Spec Sheet on the grease. I have no clue on how to read it: www.finishlineusa.com/downloads/product-information-sheets/Teflon_Grease_Info_Sheet.pdf
Still enjoying my 2016 Native Slayer Propel 13 - I'm 69 yrs old and don't see a reason to ever get another kayak. The Bonafide Propel would be my first choice these days if buying new. When 2.5 years old, my drive had an internal failure and Native honored the warranty, providing a brand new replacement propel drive. They found the aluminum case had a hairline crack that caused the slippage. I had done required maintenance on the original drive, but only greasing the pedal end via the grease port (screw). I did remove the cartridge at one point and greased the prop gear. I had bought the same spanner wrench you used in this video. Now, I've been using my replaced drive for the last 4+ years, perhaps fishing about 25 times a year with a typical trip in the 3 to 5 mile range. I know that I should pull the cartridge and the pedals and do the work, but I have been so far backing off that work. The drive still works like new. This video was great - maybe it will be my butt moving to do complete maintenance.
I followed your directions step by step over weekend. Again, great video! Only thing that I had trouble with was tightening the right side of gear box with the spanner wrench. You suggested to tighten enough to avoid any gap. So I did that. However, in doing so, the gear set was too tight and caused a grinding noise. When I loosened a little, it subsided. There is an O-ring on the inside of the gear. I just hope this prevents water from getting inside. A bit surprised by the design that you need to almost guess how much to tighten. I even noticed that when I removed it, it wasn’t that tight to begin with. It was easy to remove. Not sure if this makes sense??
Hey Yosdad, I'm glad the video was helpful and I know what you are talking about I have two propel drives.... and older one.. and a new one that came on the Bonafide P127 last year. The first propel drive.. I took the tightening down to the casing and it was good. But the new one... you have to finesse it a bit like you said. You should be good as it "should" be negligible with the O ring allowing for some play. Let me know how it turns out long term.
Hey Daren, great video as always. Do you know how can I take apart the shaft in the main body? Mine has some water in it I'm not sure how much damage salt water has done in there. All the videos I found seem to do maintenance on the top and bottom gears. Thanks!
Another impressive video my man! You can also purchase allen head sockets and a click type torque wrench from harbor freight for relatively cheap if you’re not sure if it’s at the right specifications. I’m assuming that’s 25 ft lbs of torque versus inches correct?
Thanks Michael, I saw them there and they were only around $30 or so with a margin of error of +/- 4. And you are correct. Ft Lbs... not inches.
I don't have a pedal drive, I mounted a electric motor on mine. It is the ascend 12t so it doesn't have any drive system. This is a nice video on how to maintain the drive on those, you explain it in good detail. Good work man 👍.
Appreciate it Greg! Thanks
What are your thoughts on getting a cheap alternative like a BKC PK13? I'm looking for my first kayak and this kayak seems like it's only half the price of other brands. I know it doesn't come with all the bells and whistles, but it gets me into a pedal drive at a relatively inexpensive price.
This is probably not the best place for this comment, but I watch a lot of your videos and thought this was a good time to ask. Thanks for the content!
You can also look into doing what I did and get a cheaper sit on top and add a trolling motor on the back or off to the side. I have the ascend 12t from a few years ago. It does the job nice for me. Just another option you can look at.
Hey Nicholas, I have never done research or been in one before. Sorry I can't be of help here.
Appreciate you commenting in.. The community is awesome
My best friend’s older brother had one for 1/4 of a season. He hated it. Also hated the pedal drive, not sure wat else but he did had the chance to try out an old town pdl, native, and hobie. So maybe he was comparing it to those.
Edit: something about the drive being belt driven instead of gear driven and ratio is only 8:1 compared to old town 10:3 and native’s 10:1.
Just wondering the temperature rating of the greese lube you was using.
Is there a crank sealant or gasket that needs replaced to keep water out. ( sorry thinking too much about work)
Hey Lowlife, there was rubber gaskets around upper assembly and lower cartridges. Here's the Spec Sheet on the grease. I have no clue on how to read it: www.finishlineusa.com/downloads/product-information-sheets/Teflon_Grease_Info_Sheet.pdf
Still enjoying my 2016 Native Slayer Propel 13 - I'm 69 yrs old and don't see a reason to ever get another kayak. The Bonafide Propel would be my first choice these days if buying new. When 2.5 years old, my drive had an internal failure and Native honored the warranty, providing a brand new replacement propel drive. They found the aluminum case had a hairline crack that caused the slippage. I had done required maintenance on the original drive, but only greasing the pedal end via the grease port (screw). I did remove the cartridge at one point and greased the prop gear. I had bought the same spanner wrench you used in this video. Now, I've been using my replaced drive for the last 4+ years, perhaps fishing about 25 times a year with a typical trip in the 3 to 5 mile range. I know that I should pull the cartridge and the pedals and do the work, but I have been so far backing off that work. The drive still works like new. This video was great - maybe it will be my butt moving to do complete maintenance.
Gotta love great customer service. I'm happy to hear that they honored it. So awesome. Thanks for the comment. I love it.
Got a tip if you crank arm puller stuffs the thread inside the crank and can't tighten up I'm there and just pulls out.
Just grind down the first few threads
I followed your directions step by step over weekend. Again, great video! Only thing that I had trouble with was tightening the right side of gear box with the spanner wrench. You suggested to tighten enough to avoid any gap. So I did that. However, in doing so, the gear set was too tight and caused a grinding noise. When I loosened a little, it subsided. There is an O-ring on the inside of the gear. I just hope this prevents water from getting inside. A bit surprised by the design that you need to almost guess how much to tighten. I even noticed that when I removed it, it wasn’t that tight to begin with. It was easy to remove. Not sure if this makes sense??
Hey Yosdad, I'm glad the video was helpful and I know what you are talking about I have two propel drives.... and older one.. and a new one that came on the Bonafide P127 last year. The first propel drive.. I took the tightening down to the casing and it was good. But the new one... you have to finesse it a bit like you said. You should be good as it "should" be negligible with the O ring allowing for some play. Let me know how it turns out long term.
Same issue, same resolution. Thanks!
Thanks for the information. Will save me time and money.
Right on Paul.. Happy to Help
Would it be a bad idea to use anti-sieze on the crank arm shaft?
I would hate to give an opinion on this as I have never tried
Hey Daren, great video as always. Do you know how can I take apart the shaft in the main body? Mine has some water in it I'm not sure how much damage salt water has done in there. All the videos I found seem to do maintenance on the top and bottom gears. Thanks!
Hey 9to5, unfortunately I do not have that. I took everything apart.... except that
Such a great video and tips! Thanks
Right on Yosdad! Happy to help
Great video. What pedals are you running
Those are Zacra's but they don't sell them anymore on Amazon so I recco the Alstons: geni.us/MountainBikePedals
Riempite i carter di olio invece di usare il grasso che gli ingranaggi durano di più ....i carter sono ermetici
Possible good idea for those outside of their warranty period. But doing that will void the warranty