Thanks for watching! Yeah I heard both things online. Some people say their front axle broke very easily and some say they have done tons of rock crawling with it and it never broke so I figured it’s best just to truss it so I don’t worry any more.
I'm about to be trussing my stock samurai axle while I'm doing full contact perches, YJs and a diff skid plate. How do you like those tires? Was thinking of replacing my KM2s with them
Nice that’s going to be awesome. What size tire are you running on your Zuk? As for the Patagonias I really like them. Quite on the road (for a mud tire), hook up great in the rocks, and pretty light actually.
@@BuiltForDirt I got it with 33x12.5x15s but honestly I was thinking about going down to 31s or 32s if they make them. At least going to a narrower tire if I keep the 33s. I haven't locked my thirds yet to help preserve my shafts with the big tires. If I decide to keep bigger tires I'll do chrome axles. My goal this year is to run the con, I'm out in the Bay.
They do make them in a 31. You will love the Rubicon it’s a great trail. I’m trying to get my tin top on chromoly shafts, 33s, and a front locker some time. The 31” KM2s have done great on it but when they wear down more I think I will be switching to the Patagonias on it as well
Great video, how much stronger would you say this makes the axel? Does it help prevent bending the shaft? Or is the main purpose to prevent breaking the axel itself in half? Thank you
I can’t put an actually number on it but it makes it significantly stronger. The reason I did it was to give me peace of mine about the entire axle cracking around the disconnect area.
Yes pretty much. I’m sure I could still break it if I was jumping the truck or something extreme but for normal off road and rock crawling use it should never break. The next step would be axle shafts from RCV. After those the front end is pretty bullet proof.
Did you need to buy a new gasket for the FAD mark or were you able to reuse the old one? I’m getting ready to truss my 2021 JL. Should I have any concern about overheating the axle seals? I did my 97 XJ years ago with everything together and didn’t burn anything up.
How has the truss been holding up 2 years later? I just scooped the same set up and was wondering if you had any issues following welding it still on the jeep? thanks !!
@BuiltForDirt I believe they are in the diff just beyond the carrier. I've replaced many of them. There are dust seal on the ends of the axle but not oil seals.
did you have any concern about welding across bearings? With your ground on one side of the carrier bearings and welding on the other side. You are arcing across the bearings which could cause bearing failure.
I really want to buy this as a surprise for my dad cause he really wants it,but me and him are really concerned if its gonna void the warranty on the gladiator and i need my question to be answered cause im not sure but thanks :D
@@BuiltForDirt Very true, well if i do buy it and weld it in for my dad i would imagine he would know about that,even though we will be running 35's cause we want a "lcg build" but my dad will be doing some "hard core" offroading so thats why he wants the truss but yeah thanks for the info man
@@BuiltForDirt I brought a truss for my samurai and went to a shop because my welding skills aren't great yet and they told me I need to take everything apart, great to see I can do it when installed, great video man thanks
Who out there had already trussed their front axle or will be trussing it in the future?
TJ Mitchell Films I’ll be doing mine soon. Most of my trails in Tucson, Az involve a fair about of rock crawling sections.
Nice! I have seen some videos of the trails you have in AZ. Looks like a blast. I want to get over there some time
For sure, look me up when you come this way I’ll show you some awesome places.
I have the artec for my m186 on the sport. Also have the C gussets, but want to do ball joints at same time to not overheat them. Will you do gussets?
Herbyjk I do plan on doing the Cs eventually
Steel it spray paint is made to be welded on. For those about to do this install. Great video!
I have always been skeptical about Steel It. I should give it a go some time though
cool video. thanks. not 100% sure i'll do anything hard enough to worry but the FAD is something I know is a week spot.
Thanks for watching! Yeah I heard both things online. Some people say their front axle broke very easily and some say they have done tons of rock crawling with it and it never broke so I figured it’s best just to truss it so I don’t worry any more.
Local shop quoted me $940 labor for this artec truss and Cs. They said that the seals and balljoints have to be replaced... Sounds pretty steep to me.
Nice welds looks strong !
Thank you very much
Good Job...Informative and Helpful. Thanks
Thanks for watching. Glad I could help!
That's what i'm having installed on my JK.
Nice!
Thank you for the awsome video so well explaining, question? You have to disconnect the battery in order to well or welding in the axles?
@@Aldoperez1 I didn’t disconnect the battery but that is a good habit to practice
I'm about to be trussing my stock samurai axle while I'm doing full contact perches, YJs and a diff skid plate. How do you like those tires? Was thinking of replacing my KM2s with them
Nice that’s going to be awesome. What size tire are you running on your Zuk? As for the Patagonias I really like them. Quite on the road (for a mud tire), hook up great in the rocks, and pretty light actually.
@@BuiltForDirt I got it with 33x12.5x15s but honestly I was thinking about going down to 31s or 32s if they make them. At least going to a narrower tire if I keep the 33s. I haven't locked my thirds yet to help preserve my shafts with the big tires. If I decide to keep bigger tires I'll do chrome axles. My goal this year is to run the con, I'm out in the Bay.
They do make them in a 31. You will love the Rubicon it’s a great trail. I’m trying to get my tin top on chromoly shafts, 33s, and a front locker some time. The 31” KM2s have done great on it but when they wear down more I think I will be switching to the Patagonias on it as well
Great video! Did all the heat from welding affect the ball joints and seals at all?
It did not affect them at all. Zero issues so far
Great video. Are the inner Cs also cast steel and not cast iron?
Thank you.
Great video, how much stronger would you say this makes the axel? Does it help prevent bending the shaft? Or is the main purpose to prevent breaking the axel itself in half? Thank you
I can’t put an actually number on it but it makes it significantly stronger. The reason I did it was to give me peace of mine about the entire axle cracking around the disconnect area.
Does having those on there make your axle break proof so to speak?
Yes pretty much. I’m sure I could still break it if I was jumping the truck or something extreme but for normal off road and rock crawling use it should never break.
The next step would be axle shafts from RCV. After those the front end is pretty bullet proof.
@@BuiltForDirt Damn!
Did you need to buy a new gasket for the FAD mark or were you able to reuse the old one? I’m getting ready to truss my 2021 JL. Should I have any concern about overheating the axle seals? I did my 97 XJ years ago with everything together and didn’t burn anything up.
I don’t think you will melt the seals if you do it properly and yes I reused the FAD gasket with no issues
I need a jl Rubicon to Jeep TJ truss kit
I'm not aware if any one makes one but that sounds like a cool build!
@BuiltForDirt Update...Artec is making the trusses I need. Release date is sometime in February 👍👍👍
Great video, I need to have a shop do this work, how long did it take you to do it?
Just a few hours total including painting and everything
How has the truss been holding up 2 years later? I just scooped the same set up and was wondering if you had any issues following welding it still on the jeep? thanks !!
Still on the Jeep with no issues. Just touched it up with a fresh coat of paint and inspected it a little while back.
@@BuiltForDirt Thanks for the response dude! I ordered that truss and hopefully it comes in soon. Thanks again
Does it interfere with suspension components? Controls arms for instance
It is recommended at least 1.5” of lift for clearance issues.
I'm wondering about the rubber inner axle seals at the pumpkin,...... possible melting??
The axle seals are on the ends and I didn’t have any issues there.
@BuiltForDirt I believe they are in the diff just beyond the carrier. I've replaced many of them. There are dust seal on the ends of the axle but not oil seals.
Is the FAD tube/ part of the axle cast or mild steel?
did you have any concern about welding across bearings? With your ground on one side of the carrier bearings and welding on the other side. You are arcing across the bearings which could cause bearing failure.
I wasn’t concerned about that at all. I’ve done a few other trusses in the past and have never had an issue with it.
I really want to buy this as a surprise for my dad cause he really wants it,but me and him are really concerned if its gonna void the warranty on the gladiator and i need my question to be answered cause im not sure but thanks :D
I’m sure it would void the warranty on the front axle housing. That being said this will prevent the housing from bending/breaking any way.
@@BuiltForDirt Very true, well if i do buy it and weld it in for my dad i would imagine he would know about that,even though we will be running 35's cause we want a "lcg build" but my dad will be doing some "hard core" offroading so thats why he wants the truss but yeah thanks for the info man
Has anybody confirmed or denied that a lift is needed to run the truss kit?
most truss makers say you need at least an 1.5" lift to clear the truss.
Hi there what was the set up for the welder machine?
I believe it was 17.3 volts and 230 IPM
TJ Mitchell Films thank you
Any time
No problem with welding while everything inside the axle is connected?
Nope no problems at all. As you saw I did remove the FAD and I welded everything is short stitches
@@BuiltForDirt I brought a truss for my samurai and went to a shop because my welding skills aren't great yet and they told me I need to take everything apart, great to see I can do it when installed, great video man thanks
I did my front truss on my Samurai with everything on it as well. Just weld 1” at a time and let it cool
@@BuiltForDirt did you use the lror kit with the small parts for the sides?
Yup, do the front diff armor while your at it. I think it’s only like $20 for that piece from Low Range
You don’t suppose to do the canister part!!
Didn’t see you heat up your cast iron bro those welds will most likely break off under very little stress…
How to tell us you didn't watch and listen to the video without telling us.
Jl is cast steel not iron