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07-13 GMC Chevrolet Engine / Motor Mount Replacement Silverado Sierra Yukon Tahoe Denali Suburban
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- Опубліковано 10 кві 2019
- single motor mount
amzn.to/3862sgy
Both motor mounts
amzn.to/2rQwWCT
usually the driver (Left) side is the first to go bad
Process for 4wd:
*Remove wheel/tire
*Remove inner fender well
*Disconnect electrical connections in the way
*Remove exhaust manifold heat shield
*Remove broken mount heat shield (ripped it out by hand)
*Remove mount bolts
*Jack up engine using catalytic converter, this will create enough space to maneuver the old mount out. It's like a puzzle but it can be removed through that space.
*Install new mount
*Reassemble
Did this today, it was a bear of a job, the worst part was the bottom mount bolts that did not want to come out. The threads are exposed to the elements and have a lot of built up crud. No way to access them to clean them I just sprayed them with penetrating oil and kept working the bolts back and forth. About a 4 hour job. Once the mount was unbolted I was able to manipulate it through that space by turning it upside down and around.
I put the new mount in the same way I took the old mount out, it took some finesse but I was able to get the new mount in place relatively easy. If you're having a hard time Jack the engine up some more. I took the time to clean the bolts and the threads before reinstalling so that I would not have a hard time with the bolts going back in.
I did not have to drop the front diff, I did not remove the steering shaft and nor did I remove the exhaust manifold. So it can be done without removing any of those items.
It should be noted that I replaced it with the Hummer h3 Mount which has a different design.
@@zachariahz9832 was it easier with the hummer mount.. about to start doing it with hummer mount
@@justyouraverageguy4076 yes much easier, not to mention less likely to have to do it again as it's a more robust design!
@@zachariahz9832 what year h3 mounts did u use ?
@@_Ohhslife not sure the year matters just make sure the h3 has the 5.3 v8
Just did this for my 2011 Yukon XL this afternoon. Took me about 3 hours- about 30 minutes to get the old one out and 2 and a half hours to get the new one in 😂. Thanks for the video! Saved me from removing a lot of unnecessary stuff!
Decent freaking video. So sick of others saying to lock the steering wheel and remove the steering arm under the hood. They say it makes you have a “little more work room” which may be true, BUT, people will be sorry when they dont mark where things line back up and there alignment feels off because the wheel is no longer straight. DO IT THIS WAY THIS VIDEO SHOWS PEOPLE PLEASE! He is doing IT the CORRECT WAY. Don’t make extra work for yourself. Also for those asking about the passengers side. Its the same part/mount for both sides and literally the same process. The only thing you have to do on the passenger side is remove the tire and the wheel well. You can remove it enough to bend outta the way or take it all the way off so you aren’t fighting it flopping back on your arm while you’re unbolting the mount.
On a side note Advance Auto sells the ANCHOR BRAND MOTOR MOUNT, Part # 3211 FOR $90 bucks EACH! Doesn’t even come with the heat shield either which you need! Amazon sells the EXACT SAME PART for $30 lol. Reviews are pretty crappy on it too. For $90 a side just buy an oem AC Delco factory replacement mount. But as a mechanic from PA this guy here does it correctly. Its not hard. Takes about 30-45 minutes if you are mechanically inclined or 1 hr and a half for the drivers side and probably 2 hours for the passenger side if you are new at working on cars. Take your time and take pictures on your phone if you’re unsure of yourself. Watch your fingers that they don’t get smashed too incase your lift of the engine method fails. He has correct tools but if you are using incorrect methods be extra careful lol.
Great Video explaining location of bolts, the size and type of sockets to use, and thank GOD for the Milwaukee impact lol. Im a new subscriber for sure!
One clue I wanna add as to why these mounts go bad often for some is (and I mean this seriously) is if you have a bad front strut and the vehicle is sitting lower on one side It stresses your sway bar and can break the sway bar bushing clamp bolts or even the sway bar linkages, and if really bad enough YES it will stress the heck outta the motor mounts and will keep rebreaking.
Keep up on maintenance to save money in the long run. Learn from me when i was young and dumb lol. It happens. Don’t beat yourself up. But like this dude says, YOU CAN DO IT.
Some of these videos make it sound like you’re rebuilding the motor or something. Hardest part like he tells you here is wiggling the motor mount out.
Thank You for putting out correct information and detailed information.
**Also hit like and subscribe if this video helped you. It will help him and thats the least we can do to show appreciation. 👍 This took his time and cameras and editing not to mention knowledge. Lets help each other out. Thank You Sir!
I don't think this video applies to 4x4 lol
@@trentdaddydolla647 No difference
@@Kneeguhwut There's a big difference!!
@@robertfox2925 wasn’t on my 07 gmc yukon xl. Probably was made on a Friday at 4:30 pm lol
@@trentdaddydolla647 4wd or awd models have no room to remove them from the bottom, which is why they say to remove the steering shift because it'll be in the way, it took me 4 hours to replace the driver side mount most of my time spent was trying to remove and reattach the rear bottom bolt from the block. Other videos I've seen say to remove from the wheel wells
I bought a DEA.MARMON D5 A5365 Ride control mount from RA - defective metal design, would not fit right into the frame channel of my sons 2009 5.3 silverado. wasted 3 hours trying to get it working - then went to autozone and plunkted down 3x as much on a duralast that fit perfectly. btw - a friend said to NEVER jack by a Cat. Converter because the smallest dent or deformation can cause the inside to shatter, creating a really expensive fix. Thanks for the video, it saved a lot of time and helped my planning. BTW. changed the $15 trans mount too, and it was completely rotted away into two pieces - three 15mm bolts. I did not remove the steering shaft, but I did remove the heat shield (15mm) and will safety wire and RTV red the shield back in place next .
That undercarriage clean af.
This comment section is whack lol He gets on here and takes time out of his own day to make a video to help someone and y’all hate on him for doing a video on a 2wd instead of 4x4. Y’all are something else lmao
I agree
I'd like to see you do a 4WD model.
Exactly!! Fuck these pussies!
FUCK awd lol
@@jaymorgan368 why he gotta be a pussy for posting a how to video?
@@recruit_life0715 read it again, never said the poster was a pussy!
@MiguelFcool yeah, just crawled under my Sierra. Ffs. Nothing easy here.
Watched enough to decide to drive to my mechanic
Bro hands down the best explanation on UA-cam
The oil vs heat on mount is killing it bro!
"It's really not that hard..."
...with 9' of socket extensions, a socket swivel, a lift, X-ray vision, and several hundred dollars of tools you probably don't have. 😂 Don't forget the several hours of vigorous swearing!
This is the comment I was looking for I will just pay the piper on this one lol
Or how about the fact he didn't show putting the mount back in the hole
Using the exhaust manifold will break off bolts on your exhaust manifolds. This creates another problem with these vehicles. The jacking is better done with a 2x4 and jack on the oil pan.
Yeah, im not putting a jack on anything i wouldn't trust the weight of the car on
The exhaust system js most definitely not something i'd trust my car on
Don't work... its a GM 5.3.... I'll bet if your motor mount is sacked you have a least 1 or more broke manifold bolts anyway. That is job I'm farming to a shop. I have a doorman bracket currently on mine. I was thinking about tackling it if I want to do headers and full on cat back, but you know...its got 280K on it already. So, will likely wait until the trans sacks out. I still have a few years until I can upgrade anyway.
Thank you for this video. Autoshop acted like they had to pull my motor completely out to access
I did mine in my 2014 Yukon Denali AWD both sides in 2hrs with A floor Jack and an engine hoist on the floor
Did you use oem mounts? Any upgrade to keep from doing it again? I have a 2007 Escalade rsv awd I need to do driver side. I live on Maui and I’m sure any shop will charge double. I’m pretty mechanical but don’t have a lot of tools.
@xjumpnj82x Yes I did use OEM mounts. I did have a full shop and all the tools I needed other than a lift.
This mount job is no joke. The heat shield
Is the biggest problem with the job
This is relatively easy and straightforward on a RWD Yukon/Tahoe. HOWEVER, on a AWD version I just remove the front differential which takes about 20 minutes and remove the bolts that secure the Rack and pinion to the frame which allows you to move the rack just enough to extricate the differential from the vehicle. You will ultimately save a ton of time by doing so, and basically turn the vehicle into the version GreaseMonkeyRepairs shows in the video. Hope this helps those of you with an AWD version of the vehicle.
That heat shield is more a pain in the ass, than it is helpful. I removed a broken motor mount that did not have a heat shield. It wasn't hard to remove, which I'm sure wouldn't have been difficult to replace. But, the new motor mount did come with a heat shield. It was a pain. It does not fit flush against the motor mount plate, and the holes do not line up. I ended up having to cut the corners of the heat shield with metal snips, so that I could fold it up, to get bolts installed and tightened. If you ask me, I'd just remove the shield, or buy the mount without it. The broken mount showed no signs of heat damage. It was just broken, like the one in this video. So, the shield really has no purpose. That's MY TWO CENTS.
That's called being lazy. I was able to do it last night by myself the job took 4 hours to do the left side and strut while I was at it.
It does fit
Just remove the starter before you begin. Remove the wheel well the heatshield on the manifold. Jack your engine through the pan and you will be able to slide it out through the wheel well it was such a pain the arse but the heat shield does have a purpose
The right side I mean
I thought I'd see how to remove them but everyone gets the easy ones only 2wd. Where are the 4x4 ones
4x4 you can get away with leaving the CV axles bolted and letting the axle / pumpkin hang. With Some your better off just removing it entirely. Just unbolt the drive shaft, removed axles from the pumpkin, they can stay in the hub bearings. They might have a plug or 2 on the pumpkin. Pretty sure just 4 bolts mount the entire front axle in place. Take those out and the whole axle is out.
I thought all Denali's were AWD. As far as the mount goes is there a difference in AWD and 4x4? Mine is 07 Yukon Denali 6.2 AWD....same as the video.....I think.
I just did this in my 07 gmc sierra vortec max, 4wd. Mine was slightly more tricky thanks to my longtube headers, but after removing them it was quite simple. I removed the front skid plate, and placed a 2x4 across the very front of the oil pan. Then using a floor jack, I lifted until I had the clearance necessary. On a vehicle with manifolds and stock exhaust, it would have been VERY easy. No need to drop the differential, or really mess with anything else at all.
I have a stock height Silverado. Since I don't have access to a lift, do you think there's enough room to lay underneath the truck and jack the motor up using a floor jack and a regular jack stand?
Changed mine already, jacked up where you did also, but now the truck vibrates , is there something I maybe bent ? Or came loose while I jacked it up from where you did ?
Thanks that was a big help, I just replaced one on my Silverado
You risk cracking the catalytic converter jacking from that point js other then that good video
this is the comment I was looking for. I was worries about that.
Exactly what I need today!
Thanks for you video,
Simple straight to the matter.
Does he give a coupon for the new exhaust manifold gasket repair wok that he induced by jacking the mount & trans by his “shortcut” method?
Lol. fuck off Charlie.
Lol that doesn't hurt a thing love it when people that know nothing about cars make stupid comments
@@jeromydailey3615 Lmao ALL THESE PUSSIES IN THE COMMENTS. TAKE THAT SHIT OFF IF IT FUCKS UP AND GET SOME LONG TUBE HEADERS
@@CesarHuerta-ih7oj lol
Driver side on a 2WD does look pretty straight forward. I think I might pay someone to do the passenger side on my 4WD though lol 😬😂
Just removed the differential.
What about if you have long tube headers? Got a price from a 3 shops which all say $1,000+ just for labor for both mounts, no parts because I bought the Atomic mounts, because they will need to removed both long tube headers to swap the engine mounts. For my wife’s 2013 Yukon Denali 2wd with rhe 6.2L. Will also have to do my 2012 Silverado 6.2L with long tubes that’s 4x4 but it has a 15” lift on it so hoping it will be easier with the diff drop from the lift kit. The long tubes are the primary concern, do they really need to be removed?
Great video but please change that e title to specify 2WD. Granted I should have checked underneath before taking the top bolts out/thought about this but time was short so I wasn’t thinking about it!
Did the bad mount make the suv jump or jerk a little? Made you feel like it had transmission problems by any chance?
That kick under acceleration may be due to the bad motor mount. May also be that the slip yoke may need to be regreased.
@@20tea ua-cam.com/video/4s-S109PZok/v-deo.html thats my video of our vehicle on what it does
@@20tea unfortunately I replaced the oil in the rear differential and still kept doin it. And now im replacing the differential. Hopefully it does fix the problem. It does have one bad mount on the front driver side. That part is on the way aswell
@@fivestarhemi2877 Could still be play in the driveshaft or at a slip yoke to the transfercase.
My suburban felt like a forward jump on acceleration only. It was bad driver side mount..
Great videos. Just curious how many hours labor should a shop charge for this job?
Dudes charge like 300-400 for install
Parts and labor were quoted at $630 plus tax, shop fees at my local GM dealer.
@@JJSC2023 Same here in eastern NC.
The quote in North Tx was about the same. Around $1200 for both sides. One shop said $850 for aftermarket. He said he uses aftermarket on his Tahoe but they have to be changed every 2 years. I'll be using the OEM mounts for mine since they lasted 10 years.
1:30 the metal shredding off the bolt while being undone is just another small minute detail often over looked while working
I know I won't get an answer but is jacking up the motor using the cat not risky as it could do some damage?
I'd love to watch him do it on a four-wheel drive model I just did one and I literally defied the system it came out right through the driver side fender well
Great video, helped me 100%. Thank you very much.
Sweet just got these tools on sale. Thank u
Great video. Saved me a ton of money...
I have a 2012 Silverado 1500. Took the driver side but can't get to all top screws on passenger side. Any tips?
Good job bud , the engineer are from what Disney world that works for GM that Design these trucks
Easy for GM. They attach the motor mount then lower the engine into the engine well, then they attach the 3 bolts.
Nice job man, thanks!
Can you drive with a broken one. I have a07 Tahoe... What's the cost for this job btw?
Awesome video, what should a good shop charge for this?
Thanks for your help
Well, being that I don’t have a lift like that or know anyone with such a lift, doing this from a creeper does not look like much fun! How much should this cost from a reliable shop(not the dealership)?
I just did it on garage floor, son of a bit@@. Never again!
Very good video! Props
Anyone what would some of the reasons to replace these motor mounts? Thank you
You feel a bump when you accelerate from a stop. Sometimes people mistakenly think they have a bad front strut.
Thank you.
Thanks but I need to know how to do this at home. I guess use a car jack to lift the engine?
says it’s not as hard as people make it out to be then proceeds to do the job on a 2wd 😂
You did not show the re-installation process of getting the mount installed into position.
would you lift the engine on the back of the oil pan?
Yeah it’s easy if you’ve got a set up like the one you have in the vid
How many mounts does the.silverado have. I have a 2008 4.8 2wd. Have bad motor mount but want to make sure I order correct one.
Change both of them out at the same time . No point in doing one when the other will fail soon after if one is already failing . My opinion. My passenger side is bad so I’ll just do both at the same time
Just did my 07 4x4 tahoe driver and passenger side
now make a vid of a 4wd model, i bet you will struggle with the AFT lower bolt to engine.
Where did you lift the other side?
Passenger side video?
How did u get it in place so easy u didn't show it
Very good 😊 , tomorrow I will be remove , these mount , how much labor take
You should of did the driver side the hardest side because of the starter and ac compressor in the way
What about a 4wd truck?? It will be the same process??
You said you were going to put links for the tools
That's the easy one now do the passenger side......
Does it matter, 2wd vs 4wd?
2 engine support an 1 transmission?
You really need to put (if it’s a 2WD) after that “it’s easy you can do it”.
Is four-wheel-drive more difficult?
@@DavidGScott707 If you have AWD or 4WD you have to remove the steering rod and mount will have to be removed forwards.
@@ryanvarner6520 Not if you sawzall the mount in half. You just pull it out in 2 manageable pieces. Your welcome.
@@mikepaul3200 but how do you put the new one in?🤔
@@thatbluehoe7868 You got me there. If replacing with factory mounts. your stuck removing parts. I sawzalled mine in half. removed them in 2 pieces, after jacking up the oil pan. Then put the new ones in. But they were atomic fabrication mounts. Which are 2 pieces. It was easy. Well still time consuming. But easier than the one piece method
Could a broken motor mount cause my stablitrak and traction control lights to come on? Could be the snow and slush causing that but my engine light was flashing with the vehicle shaking lightly?, hitting bumps the last day sounded odd in the front end passenger
Steering position sensor can cause them lights
Get your ECM reprogrammed and delete the AFM. Trust me it will get rid of your issue.
What kind of jack is that?
Ive gone through 3 driver's side mounts in about 4 years and ive got the smallest motor for a yukon xl (5.3L). OEM is junk. Just installed a set from summit racing. Should outlast me now...
Thanks for the video. No I can see it shouldn't cost $600 at the dealer to do this. It's like what........an hour of labor? Thanks again
Wish i can do it, i have no garage. getting it done for $650 OEM what cani do.
Great video. Thanks for uploading. Is there a torque spec?
Ummm just jack the motor up some by the oil pan. Lifting it up by the exhaust??
I’d like to see how you put the shit back in bc it going for me
What if it is a 4x4? wtf do you do then? Take front diff out?
GOOD VIDEO
Good video but I wouldn't jack up on the exhaust tho
4wd really isnt much harder considering you can drop the front diff in 10min.
You should’ve showed the passenger side, that one is a bear 🐻
Freaking GM thinks how to make things difficult sometimes lol. Sad!
Normally the only one that goes bad is the driver. But ya the starter is right in your way. Just take the starter off.
@@shanewatts3138 You mean the starter is on the passenger side I think? Its been a longggg day lol. I have a 2007 yukon xl, and my broken one is the driver’s side. Hoping i got lost in the comments somewhere lol. Thanks bud.
I need to service my traction control and stabilitrak 07 Yukon denali . Any video's
ua-cam.com/video/vyHvNWqDkyo/v-deo.html
Skip ahead
In the middle of the video I fix an abs and traction control issue in an avalanche
In my case I brushed off all the ground connections in engine bay
I fixed that problem changing the gas pedal
Why you didn't show passenger side?
Every mechanic that I've asked they want to go with the 8 hours that the computer calls for, even if on the end they do it this way.
This dude used the exhaust pipe to raise the engine...
Any other idea besides a block under the oil pan ?
@@chrisalertaalpha4291 i've used the car rack and a chain or sometimes an engine support beam to raise the motor.
@R230Tuner I was thinkin the same thing. They are not as strong as they say they are.
Worked like a charm!
@@DavidKittrellPhotography Until you get the exhaust leak and have to break a bolt.
Great job.Where are you guys located?
Forgot to mention on my Silverado the heat shield is in the way
We’ll see if it’s as easy as your the video lol
Defective from the Heat from the headers?
its a bad design from GM. The heat from the manifolds would just make them crack. Some people only get 30k out of them. If you need to replace them, I recommend AFP's motor mounts. I usually like sticking with GM, but they make a Poly Motor Mount which will last for a long time
Now try that again with on a 4x4 version of the vehicle. Good luck.
Easy
Thanks!
What about the passenger side
Mines a 14 I’m guessing it’s the same
🍻
Yeah it’s easy because it’s Rear wheel drive. 4WD is a whole other story. Not easy!
These are notorious for have broken manifold bolts pls find a new method
What size bolts does the mount use
15 said it in the video
Is easy for rear wells drive 4*4 is more difficult
Now 4x4
I got scared when I saw the jack stand under the catyltltycytcllcttylic converter.
That “Millwaki” (or how ever you spell that bullshit) fuck them bolts up! No hate just sayin, good vid man, thanx bro👌🏽
Do a 4x4!
That’s difficult I’ll just pay mechanic