I'm amazed at how easy the wiring is now. I built my first N-Guage back in the mid-seventies and everything had to be hardwired. Track had to cut and fitted as well. It was always needing work to make it go, but as a kid it was so fun.
Are we forgetting about the #4 turnout reliability, the lack of turnout selection, the fact you need to buy a spade drill bit to get the oversized power connectors in place, the fact when a turnout breaks you physically have to tear part of your layout apart vs switch motors that screw onto your layout. The fact the #6 are only power routing, the #6 do not follow correct spacing for double track (33mm between rails) the lack of crossing tracks, the fact USA starter sets will not fit on 2x2 foot foam board since the curves are too big, no way to wire signals to control multiple trains (unlike marklin and minitrix) and the fact you have to buy KATO roadbed to connect to non roadbed track systems without a transition piece. Or they can't even mold a notch into the track piece to let the wires pass though. Don't even think about placing a bridge piece flat down its not going to happen. One of the only N gauge systems without stackable bridge Piers and forget if you want brick Piers or anything else besides poured concrete. If your buying in HO your going to have even more limitations, no one makes a viaduct system for code 83 besides atlas so if you want bridges buy code 100 peco track for the bridge system with the most variety. The only thing kato offers over any N Gauge set track system is the 90 degree crossing without legs to allow for double track or larger diamonds at the same cost as atlas without having to cut your track.
Have you tried the new re-worked true-track system from Atlas though? It has prototypical US tie spacing for modeling North American railroads, code 65 rail, mixed gray ballast, and even sectional pieces to allow for transitioning to code 55 flex.
The other advantage of the Kato system is that you can set up a layout on the dinner table and have a tidy way to store all the pieces in the original packaging (which is durable enough to be re-used) whe you are finished
Just got my first Kato starter set, silver streak!! Wanted them sense i was 15, im now 32, im so happy! Im already looking at expansions and learning how to further make a good layout!! Kato quality really motivates the mind and creativity!! Cant wait to get a city built!!
UA-cam turned the word “expansions” in your post into one of those links with the magnifying glass next to it and when I hit reply, it disappeared. UA-cam is about to make UA-cam worse. To be fair, making YT worse is what they do day in and day out.
No question the Kato Unitrack sets are great for beginners, or even layout expansion. I did all flex track with my HO layout, the Unitrack makes it so much more enjoyable to change a layout.
Kato Unitrack got me up and running right away when I got back into Model Railroading. Even the packaging is great. I hated to throw away the boxes the sets come in but didn't have the room to store them. It should be noted that Kato makes there stuff durable because in Japan, most modelers only have room to set up temporary layouts on the floor of their homes.
I think I have that exact same set, inner loop, outer loop and the side passing. I did not know that the side passing has switchable power, thank you Steve.
Another great video Steve. All of your videos are always so helpful and informative. I too have a passenger set. It's the Kato Amtrak P42 Superliner N Scale Starter Set. Unitrack is by far the best. The reliability of Kato track is unmatched, and as you point out the wide assortment of the variation sets give you so many options.
To add a note, Kato makes an adapter piece to make the Unitrack play nice with same code sectional and flex track. Do a little magic and use care with the road bed height at the transition point and it works. Useful where you're leaving Katoland into long\gently curved sections of the layout where flextrack really shines.
I really hope they expand more in Europe, because KATO stuff here is currently very expensive to get which is a shame because I would love to build a layout with such high quality track.
Just purchased both the M1 and V3 sets and a loco +2 freight car set and 3 other 2 freight car sets for a 8 car switching set with loop, looking forward to some switching operations soon!!
Lets just say me and my dad wanted to make a layout and at the time we had the Atlas track which is very annoying to work with for temporary layouts. The Kato Unit track removed all the loose joint problems and tracks coming apart. It also gave it a better look. Currently we are making a full scale layout and the motivation would not be there if we didn't use Kato unitrack at the start.
To be honest this is the reason N Scale has the best starter sets. Kato is the primary maker of starter sets for N Scale and they are high quality and are quite robust. They run well too. The tracks also look great and go together really well and even if the connector breaks, you can buy a 20 pack for like 4 dollars instead of having the track unusable.
Glue Dots rock. I have been using them to stick my test track in place. They make removable ones which are great for trying stuff out but still being able to move it later. There’s also tape that is essentially the same stuff.
Ah, I’m pretty sure it was you that got me onto glue dots in the first place. I knew someone had talked about them but could remember who or where I had seen that.
The basic loop plus the yard and that 2nd controller would allow simultaneous running two trains, one on the loop, the other doing inglenook yard switching game.
Great video Steve :) I went to the Kato site and cannot seem to find anything large enough to read as to the track types such as Radius of curves, turnouts to match, etc. is it possible to do a video on this information? Or direct others to a site that is usable. I'm planning to switch to Unitrack for my next layout, but other than reading about the tack "sets" I can't find anything on the variety of actual sizes, switch radius, matching curves, etc. to put together a plan. And you mentioned you use it predominantly. I thought you may have some insight. I'm gonna keep looking and hope to find some info. :) Of course!! 15 minutes after I ask I find a site with a clear picture of the Kato Track available lol ... Still a great video though, Thanks
Have you considered trying out the UK N Scale models like those from Farish, Dapol, Revolution Trains and Sonic Models etc? These are good models and Kato does make a Eurostar and a Class 800/0 in GWR green. All the best, Peter.
@17:14 regarding DCC and the layout that you have...,when you say that you need to add power to each track, does that mean adding wires/power to every single track piece added on that line post the turnout or just adding one wire to power that entire track line after that one turnout? Hope makes sense
No, not to each piece of track, I just meant every section isolated by a turnout or otherwise separated. The turnouts are power routing so power will only pass a turnout in one direction at a time. That works great for turning off power to parts of the layout in DC operations but usually you want everything powered in DCC. Don’t have to, but if you want to run multiple trains at once you have to keep most parts powered.
Thank you for this excellent walkthrough! I just today set up the M-2 package and learned about the power-routing turnouts - somewhat of an accident as I wired the feeder section to the outside passing track. My loco did not move until I threw the turnout! I think that is an awesome feature. Also good to know about glue dots and extension wires! Kato is so reliable. Would love to know your approach to track cleaning g and equipment maintenance.
The M2 package is a great way to start out. As far as track maintenance, I sometimes use the Woodland Scenics track cleaning blocks when things are bad, but otherwise usually use a solvent of some type. I use rubbing alcohol a lot, but it isn't actually good for keeping the track clean. Other chemicals are better, but you run the risk of taking paint of things and the like. Rubbing graphite on the tracks can help keep things cleaner (it fills in scratches and reduced arcing which leaves carbon deposits and such), and rubbing the rails down with things like NO OX ID amzn.to/3Tu1K63 can help a lot too in terms of keeping the track clean for a long time, but you have to be really careful with that stuff that you only get a very thin layer on the track and don't have any globs anywhere or that will get into your locomotive and can gum up the gears and stuff.
I might add, for limited budgets, look towards Kato's CV1, CV2, and CV3 compact track sets. Use their Pocketline trains, and trams for a very compact, very smooth set.
I use Kato track for my HO layout. The quality is suburb, but the pricing is a bit tough to swallow - $150 for the HV2 manual turnout siding kit is steep.
I’ve used DCC with most of my layout projects. My 2x4 n scale project layout I finished earlier this year used both DCC and DC on the same layout (all Kato unitrack) and my 1x5 n scale layout I’m just finishing up uses both DC and DCC. You don’t generally need to do anything special to Kato track to run DCC.
*Atlas has released their new re-worked sectional true-track system in a mixed gray ballast; code 65 with prototypical US tie spacing... Kato Unitrack is great for beginners or to setup for a quick test/break-in loop. However, on a permanent layout or completed module, you always have an elevated track profile with plastic roadbed that just doesn't look right in industries, yard tracks, and passenger stations where ballast is shallow and typically flat...no matter how much someone tries to blend it in - not to mention the obnoxious rail size (c80) and non US tie spacing; there is no hiding that. If modeling North American railroads, nothing beats code 55/40 ballasted + weathered track.
Thanks for an informative video. I LOVE my Kato track and expansion sets. One thing that I have run into, and maybe you have a video of this on your channel...but could you cover "connectors" between locomotives and rolling stock? I had picked up some "not Kato" rolling stock last year before I went and started standardizing on Kato. The "connectors" are very different, and I'm wondering "what" the preferred connectors are...and if you've ever had to "change out" the connectors on your locomotives or rolling stock. Thanks again.
Yes, the Kato couplers are smaller that others and are not my favorite. The gold standard in N sale is generally the micro trains couplers but I like the mchenry couplers as well. Micro trains makes all kinds of couplers and conversion kits that will allow you to convert any locomotive or piece of rolling stock. If you only have Kato equipment the Kato ones are fine but they don’t couple to non Kato equipment as well sometimes. I mostly have mchenry couplers on my stuff, but they generally couple to micro trains stuff just fine.
With the way you are putting the feeder unijoiner you will have trouble removing them. Found out the hard way and broke one which I fixed with solder. I recommend putting them with the wire "under" the rail, one joiner per rail only replacing the ones you took out of the rails. I believe beginners will make the same mistake as me (or just use the feeder tracks really)
In N scale they are, mainly because the track is super easy to use and their stuff is super reliable. The track in the Bachmann and other sets in N scale can work ok for a while but it often becomes more frustrating to use over time.
Not lubricate at the start, but all locomotives run better if you break them in for a while. Just let them run a couple hours forward and back. You don’t necessarily have to do a dedicated break in period, but just running them a lot at the start helps smooth out any sharp jaggies on gear teeth and helps even out the lubrication that is put in at the factory.
Hi steve, how are you? After watching many of your videos im considering making the transition from ho to n scale. I've recently made the transition from Marklin (3 rail) to DC/DCC (2 rail) and im starting to build the layout, but kato unitrack system and the fact that n scale practically doubles up the amount of space i have, is really tempting. Regarding rolling stock i know that for n scale i can find stock from all around the world, that was my main issue with marklin 3 rail, really limited stock and somehow i felt i was in a "closed ecosystem", thats why after so many years of being on the marklin bandwagon (almost 35 years) i've decided i wanted to step down.
Only issue is that sometimes you need to change out the couplers as not all types work together that reliably. Usually not hard to change them, however.
Hi Steve, does anyone to monotrails or unique trains? I'm a gamer amd make game boards and thought it might be fun to incorprtate a train theme into a game.
Unfortunately, the price point of Kato merchandise place it in the homes of adult or retired rich men, not in the homes of children for whom toys should be made. I am actively designing N-gauge track that can be 3-D printed. You could 3D print just the track bed + ties, with the metal rails needing to be snapped in after being purchased separately, from stock metal supply houses. It's doesn't have to be I-beam, square or rectangular profile also works. But if you have a Dremel with an attachment, you can groove square stock into an I-beam.
Hi Steve, Seit einiger Zeit sehe ich mir Deine Videos an, speziell zur Spur Z. Alles wunderschön und ich würde sehr gerne mir ein wenig Amerika nach Hause holen…. In Deutschland wird das System Kato von der Firma Noch ( Landschaftsbauartikel) vertrieben. Leider ist kaum was lieferbar. Nur sehr wenig Gleis ist sofort lieferbar. Alles andere ist angeblich in der Produktion. Die von Dir vorgestellten Starsets gibt es ( offiziell) garnicht zu kaufen. Bleibt nur der Umweg über einen Händler in Canada/ USA. Dazu noch der recht teure Versand, und ab 450€ Warenwert wird Zoll fällig. Also, man wartet sehr lange und bezahlt fast 3x soviel wie bei euch. Schade. Trotzdem, Deine Videos sind Spitze und vielleicht findet sich ein Weg, um an die schönen Modelle zu gelangen Liebe Grüße aus Mitteldeutschland 🛤️🛠️🚂🤩👍
The high prices of model railroading doesn't justify the rewards of getting into this hobby. Steer wide and clear of these people encouraging you to get involved in this money trap.
What do you recommend? How mane feed points per X meters? I believe because of the resistance of the rails, a Voltage drop will occur at a distance away from the original feed point.
Yes, that is an issue, especially with smaller rail. I normally add a feeder every three feet or so. That should be plenty and probably overkill. But more feeders obviously helps decrease risks with rail joiners failing to transmit as much power too.
Will Kato Japanese (non US) starter kit's ddc power controllers and power run on US eletrical current or is it meant for Japanese current? I'm interested kato N scale trains in Japanese packaging.
You need to specify a part number. Japan runs on 100V and either 50Hz (Eastern Japan) or 60Hz (Western Japan)* *Most* Japanese products are designed with dual-frequency in mind and have electronics to match. *Most* Japanese products are 100-120V, meaning: *most* Japanese products will work in the US with nothing more than a passive (physical) adapter. For example, Kato 20-853 will ship with a Kato Power Pack SX, Part number 22-018-1 in US guise or 22-018BK-1 in Japanese. Both rely on a 12V input. which is supplied by the 22-082. If you buy this from Japan, it's a 100V-240V and 50/60Hz input that is stepped down to 12 volts (further stepped down to 3 by one of the above power units.) As a result: yes, if you buy a set from Japan, the most you should expect to supply is either A) a passive adapter B) US Kato wall cable to replace the one that comes with the kit (may only be sold in 22-082) The Kato Charger and Superliner in this video uses a universal power supply, regardless of origin. Any sets or parts that don't use the listed power supplies will need to be individually researched. Also, I'm just some random on the Internet. Make sure to check with the seller. The box should plainly state 100-240V and 50/60Hz. (*"The frequency of electric current is 50 Hertz in eastern Japan (including Tokyo, Yokohama, Tohoku, Hokkaido) and 60 Hertz in western Japan (including Nagoya, Osaka, Kyoto, Hiroshima, Shikoku, Kyushu")
For me, 19" radius track is the minimum. 12.5 is just too sharp a curve for trains to look good, especially the passenger stock. That's just me though, not everyone agrees.
Your just missing ONE thing with this One of them switches that is used for double track that can get you from the outside loop to the inside one by changing the tracks . That’s what your missing . A right or left hand will work fine enough !
#4 Turnouts. Fine with everything else… but why can’t they do something as simple as adding the notch they already put on the compact turnouts to fix the #4s… for that one point alone, I recommend NOONE get into Kato unless you’re ONLY using temporary layouts.
Kato seems to only know how to make high quality products. If I didn't have 60 years in HO, I'd definitely get Kato N scale. Have you seen Mike Fifer's layout? He uses Kato track, but has made a layout comparable to what you can create with flexi track. So, you aren't even limited to fixed track plans with the Kato system should you want to expand later. Link to his channel: www.youtube.com/@N-Scale/videos
Yes, his videos got me started in N scale actually. All my N scale project layouts I’ve built have used Kato unitrack. I have a lot of Kato unitrack track plans on my website as well: www.steves-trains.com/post/n-scale-track-plans
Here are the links to the Kato track sets:
►Kato Train Set: amzn.to/4gs8eMQ
►Kato M1 Set: amzn.to/3BbXulK
►Kato V1 Set: amzn.to/3TzNWHn
►Kato V2 Set: amzn.to/4d4vzRO
►Kato V3 Set: amzn.to/4eozaew
►Kato V5 Set: amzn.to/3TudOEw
►Kato V6 Set: amzn.to/3XMMtQu
I'm amazed at how easy the wiring is now. I built my first N-Guage back in the mid-seventies and everything had to be hardwired. Track had to cut and fitted as well. It was always needing work to make it go, but as a kid it was so fun.
The Kato Unitrack system is the best set track system of any scale IMO.
Yes, it’s super easy and reliable to work with and takes a lot of the frustration out of N scale.
Are we forgetting about the #4 turnout reliability, the lack of turnout selection, the fact you need to buy a spade drill bit to get the oversized power connectors in place, the fact when a turnout breaks you physically have to tear part of your layout apart vs switch motors that screw onto your layout. The fact the #6 are only power routing, the #6 do not follow correct spacing for double track (33mm between rails) the lack of crossing tracks, the fact USA starter sets will not fit on 2x2 foot foam board since the curves are too big, no way to wire signals to control multiple trains (unlike marklin and minitrix) and the fact you have to buy KATO roadbed to connect to non roadbed track systems without a transition piece. Or they can't even mold a notch into the track piece to let the wires pass though. Don't even think about placing a bridge piece flat down its not going to happen. One of the only N gauge systems without stackable bridge Piers and forget if you want brick Piers or anything else besides poured concrete. If your buying in HO your going to have even more limitations, no one makes a viaduct system for code 83 besides atlas so if you want bridges buy code 100 peco track for the bridge system with the most variety. The only thing kato offers over any N Gauge set track system is the 90 degree crossing without legs to allow for double track or larger diamonds at the same cost as atlas without having to cut your track.
@@Justlovedolls2024get a forstner bit or the tool to remove the connector. I think the tool is about $6 but it may have gone up in the last year.
Have you tried the new re-worked true-track system from Atlas though? It has prototypical US tie spacing for modeling North American railroads, code 65 rail, mixed gray ballast, and even sectional pieces to allow for transitioning to code 55 flex.
Tomix finetrack have more choice for turnout/crossing, plug directly with flexible track
The other advantage of the Kato system is that you can set up a layout on the dinner table and have a tidy way to store all the pieces in the original packaging (which is durable enough to be re-used) whe you are finished
Kato track and engines are my first choice. Thanks for showing and explaining how things work. Very helpful.
Just got my first Kato starter set, silver streak!! Wanted them sense i was 15, im now 32, im so happy! Im already looking at expansions and learning how to further make a good layout!! Kato quality really motivates the mind and creativity!! Cant wait to get a city built!!
UA-cam turned the word “expansions” in your post into one of those links with the magnifying glass next to it and when I hit reply, it disappeared. UA-cam is about to make UA-cam worse. To be fair, making YT worse is what they do day in and day out.
No question the Kato Unitrack sets are great for beginners, or even layout expansion. I did all flex track with my HO layout, the Unitrack makes it so much more enjoyable to change a layout.
Those track connection clicks are so satisfying! The M1+V2 Crossover is quite tempting 🤭
Yes they are!
Kato Unitrack got me up and running right away when I got back into Model Railroading. Even the packaging is great. I hated to throw away the boxes the sets come in but didn't have the room to store them. It should be noted that Kato makes there stuff durable because in Japan, most modelers only have room to set up temporary layouts on the floor of their homes.
I think I have that exact same set, inner loop, outer loop and the side passing. I did not know that the side passing has switchable power, thank you Steve.
Another great video Steve. All of your videos are always so helpful and informative. I too have a passenger set. It's the Kato Amtrak P42 Superliner N Scale Starter Set. Unitrack is by far the best. The reliability of Kato track is unmatched, and as you point out the wide assortment of the variation sets give you so many options.
I wish Kato made their track system for three rail o scale. It’s so good!
Very nice! Very helpful to those thinking of trying out this hobby.
Two videos and I’ve learned so much. Awesome explanation
To add a note, Kato makes an adapter piece to make the Unitrack play nice with same code sectional and flex track. Do a little magic and use care with the road bed height at the transition point and it works. Useful where you're leaving Katoland into long\gently curved sections of the layout where flextrack really shines.
Great information. Your show and tell is perfect for a rookie. Thanks so much.
Great video Steve. I love Kato’s products as well.
I really hope they expand more in Europe, because KATO stuff here is currently very expensive to get which is a shame because I would love to build a layout with such high quality track.
Just purchased both the M1 and V3 sets and a loco +2 freight car set and 3 other 2 freight car sets for a 8 car switching set with loop, looking forward to some switching operations soon!!
Kato N scale, train set, tracks and switch set.
Unitrack, i love.
Lets just say me and my dad wanted to make a layout and at the time we had the Atlas track which is very annoying to work with for temporary layouts. The Kato Unit track removed all the loose joint problems and tracks coming apart. It also gave it a better look. Currently we are making a full scale layout and the motivation would not be there if we didn't use Kato unitrack at the start.
Your description is 1st class
To be honest this is the reason N Scale has the best starter sets. Kato is the primary maker of starter sets for N Scale and they are high quality and are quite robust. They run well too. The tracks also look great and go together really well and even if the connector breaks, you can buy a 20 pack for like 4 dollars instead of having the track unusable.
Nice video I'm going to recommend your video when people ask how they can get into N scale.
Love this vid! So much info in one place. Thanks!
Glue Dots rock. I have been using them to stick my test track in place. They make removable ones which are great for trying stuff out but still being able to move it later. There’s also tape that is essentially the same stuff.
Ah, I’m pretty sure it was you that got me onto glue dots in the first place. I knew someone had talked about them but could remember who or where I had seen that.
great setup and explanation! thank you!
Thanks for the demo! I’m definitely interested in this system.
I use Kato on my layout. I run dcc. All my switches are #6, I put insulated unijoiners on the switches.
The basic loop plus the yard and that 2nd controller would allow simultaneous running two trains, one on the loop, the other doing inglenook yard switching game.
I really enjoyed your video Steve. I thinking about starting and N scale layout using the Kato tracks on a 4x8 piece of plywood. Thank you! 😊
Great video Steve :) I went to the Kato site and cannot seem to find anything large enough to read as to the track types such as Radius of curves, turnouts to match, etc. is it possible to do a video on this information? Or direct others to a site that is usable. I'm planning to switch to Unitrack for my next layout, but other than reading about the tack "sets" I can't find anything on the variety of actual sizes, switch radius, matching curves, etc. to put together a plan. And you mentioned you use it predominantly. I thought you may have some insight. I'm gonna keep looking and hope to find some info. :) Of course!! 15 minutes after I ask I find a site with a clear picture of the Kato Track available lol ... Still a great video though, Thanks
Have you considered trying out the UK N Scale models like those from Farish, Dapol, Revolution Trains and Sonic Models etc? These are good models and Kato does make a Eurostar and a Class 800/0 in GWR green. All the best, Peter.
@17:14 regarding DCC and the layout that you have...,when you say that you need to add power to each track, does that mean adding wires/power to every single track piece added on that line post the turnout or just adding one wire to power that entire track line after that one turnout? Hope makes sense
No, not to each piece of track, I just meant every section isolated by a turnout or otherwise separated. The turnouts are power routing so power will only pass a turnout in one direction at a time. That works great for turning off power to parts of the layout in DC operations but usually you want everything powered in DCC. Don’t have to, but if you want to run multiple trains at once you have to keep most parts powered.
@StevesTrains thank you for taking the time to respond and answer the question.
Nice train, interesting video🛤🚂👍.
Greetings from Germany Gert
Enjoy seeing how many ways you can use Kato track packs. Thanks Steve for sharing.
GOD BLESS 🚂💕🚂💕🚂💕🚂💕
Thank you for this excellent walkthrough! I just today set up the M-2 package and learned about the power-routing turnouts - somewhat of an accident as I wired the feeder section to the outside passing track. My loco did not move until I threw the turnout! I think that is an awesome feature. Also good to know about glue dots and extension wires! Kato is so reliable. Would love to know your approach to track cleaning g and equipment maintenance.
The M2 package is a great way to start out. As far as track maintenance, I sometimes use the Woodland Scenics track cleaning blocks when things are bad, but otherwise usually use a solvent of some type. I use rubbing alcohol a lot, but it isn't actually good for keeping the track clean. Other chemicals are better, but you run the risk of taking paint of things and the like. Rubbing graphite on the tracks can help keep things cleaner (it fills in scratches and reduced arcing which leaves carbon deposits and such), and rubbing the rails down with things like NO OX ID amzn.to/3Tu1K63 can help a lot too in terms of keeping the track clean for a long time, but you have to be really careful with that stuff that you only get a very thin layer on the track and don't have any globs anywhere or that will get into your locomotive and can gum up the gears and stuff.
I might add, for limited budgets, look towards Kato's CV1, CV2, and CV3 compact track sets. Use their Pocketline trains, and trams for a very compact, very smooth set.
I use Kato track for my HO layout. The quality is suburb, but the pricing is a bit tough to swallow - $150 for the HV2 manual turnout siding kit is steep.
Thanks for the video :) but what about Tomix track system do you know anything about it ?? thanks
It looks great, but it is harder to find here. I’ve never seen it in a shop here. One day I’ll order some from an overseas shop and try it out.
Thanks for video. Can you do a video on using DCC with Kato?
I’ve used DCC with most of my layout projects. My 2x4 n scale project layout I finished earlier this year used both DCC and DC on the same layout (all Kato unitrack) and my 1x5 n scale layout I’m just finishing up uses both DC and DCC. You don’t generally need to do anything special to Kato track to run DCC.
Very nice. Thanks.
Steve, is it possible to join the inner and outer tracks together with additional turnouts.
Yep, for sure. And you can get the Kato double cross over which works great for going back and forth between the loops.
@@StevesTrains Thanks for your time Steve, the double crossover sounds like a better option 👍
Steve, Does Kato provide the dimensions for each track pack layout? It would be great to know these sizes.
Some of the ones on their website do and some don’t. A lot of times you have to figure it out by summing up the length of the track pieces.
*Atlas has released their new re-worked sectional true-track system in a mixed gray ballast; code 65 with prototypical US tie spacing...
Kato Unitrack is great for beginners or to setup for a quick test/break-in loop. However, on a permanent layout or completed module, you always have an elevated track profile with plastic roadbed that just doesn't look right in industries, yard tracks, and passenger stations where ballast is shallow and typically flat...no matter how much someone tries to blend it in - not to mention the obnoxious rail size (c80) and non US tie spacing; there is no hiding that. If modeling North American railroads, nothing beats code 55/40 ballasted + weathered track.
The Atlas track does look nice.
Thanks for an informative video. I LOVE my Kato track and expansion sets. One thing that I have run into, and maybe you have a video of this on your channel...but could you cover "connectors" between locomotives and rolling stock? I had picked up some "not Kato" rolling stock last year before I went and started standardizing on Kato. The "connectors" are very different, and I'm wondering "what" the preferred connectors are...and if you've ever had to "change out" the connectors on your locomotives or rolling stock. Thanks again.
Yes, the Kato couplers are smaller that others and are not my favorite. The gold standard in N sale is generally the micro trains couplers but I like the mchenry couplers as well. Micro trains makes all kinds of couplers and conversion kits that will allow you to convert any locomotive or piece of rolling stock. If you only have Kato equipment the Kato ones are fine but they don’t couple to non Kato equipment as well sometimes. I mostly have mchenry couplers on my stuff, but they generally couple to micro trains stuff just fine.
With the way you are putting the feeder unijoiner you will have trouble removing them. Found out the hard way and broke one which I fixed with solder.
I recommend putting them with the wire "under" the rail, one joiner per rail only replacing the ones you took out of the rails.
I believe beginners will make the same mistake as me (or just use the feeder tracks really)
Yeah, that is probably better. In some cases I just solder wires to the rail anyway since that is of course a lot cheaper.
Would you say that the Kato starter and expansion sets would be the most user friendly option for a beginner?
In N scale they are, mainly because the track is super easy to use and their stuff is super reliable. The track in the Bachmann and other sets in N scale can work ok for a while but it often becomes more frustrating to use over time.
Hi Steve, where would you insert the decoupler?
Came back to this as i am undecided as to ho or n.for space my choice is n but for cost its ho...
I use Kato track for my portable N scale layout
with the M1 and the V5 do I need two power supplies or can both be operated with one? Thanks JB
Just wish Kato would come out with a 30° crossing
100%? You mad lad!
Thank you
Hi Steve, do you need to run in Kato locos and lubricate before use.?
Not lubricate at the start, but all locomotives run better if you break them in for a while. Just let them run a couple hours forward and back. You don’t necessarily have to do a dedicated break in period, but just running them a lot at the start helps smooth out any sharp jaggies on gear teeth and helps even out the lubrication that is put in at the factory.
@@StevesTrains thanks
Hi steve, how are you? After watching many of your videos im considering making the transition from ho to n scale.
I've recently made the transition from Marklin (3 rail) to DC/DCC (2 rail) and im starting to build the layout, but kato unitrack system and the fact that n scale practically doubles up the amount of space i have, is really tempting.
Regarding rolling stock i know that for n scale i can find stock from all around the world, that was my main issue with marklin 3 rail, really limited stock and somehow i felt i was in a "closed ecosystem", thats why after so many years of being on the marklin bandwagon (almost 35 years) i've decided i wanted to step down.
Only issue is that sometimes you need to change out the couplers as not all types work together that reliably. Usually not hard to change them, however.
Hi Steve, does anyone to monotrails or unique trains? I'm a gamer amd make game boards and thought it might be fun to incorprtate a train theme into a game.
I haved a Kato Amtrak passengers train set my friend.
P42 Amtrak locomotive.
Bi-nivel passengers cars.
Unfortunately, the price point of Kato merchandise place it in the homes of adult or retired rich men, not in the homes of children for whom toys should be made. I am actively designing N-gauge track that can be 3-D printed. You could 3D print just the track bed + ties, with the metal rails needing to be snapped in after being purchased separately, from stock metal supply houses. It's doesn't have to be I-beam, square or rectangular profile also works. But if you have a Dremel with an attachment, you can groove square stock into an I-beam.
Some truth to that, price point of Kato products makes alot of beginners look elsewhere.
Great video I had been wondering / struggling to work out what Kato offerings did :D
I don't know if someone commented yet, but their is an adapter for powering the track.
I want to make tables and even a hat with a tiny gauge train set in them....but can't afford the kits...it saddens me that are near a grand a kit
Not a super cheap hobby, that is why I do UA-cam, to pay for it.
Hi Steve,
Seit einiger Zeit sehe ich mir Deine Videos an, speziell zur Spur Z. Alles wunderschön und ich würde sehr gerne mir ein wenig Amerika nach Hause holen….
In Deutschland wird das System Kato von der Firma Noch ( Landschaftsbauartikel) vertrieben. Leider ist kaum was lieferbar. Nur sehr wenig Gleis ist sofort lieferbar. Alles andere ist angeblich in der Produktion.
Die von Dir vorgestellten Starsets gibt es ( offiziell) garnicht zu kaufen. Bleibt nur der Umweg über einen Händler in Canada/ USA. Dazu noch der recht teure Versand, und ab 450€ Warenwert wird Zoll fällig. Also, man wartet sehr lange und bezahlt fast 3x soviel wie bei euch.
Schade.
Trotzdem, Deine Videos sind Spitze und vielleicht findet sich ein Weg, um an die schönen Modelle zu gelangen
Liebe Grüße aus Mitteldeutschland 🛤️🛠️🚂🤩👍
The high prices of model railroading doesn't justify the rewards of getting into this hobby.
Steer wide and clear of these people encouraging you to get involved in this money trap.
What do you recommend? How mane feed points per X meters? I believe because of the resistance of the rails, a Voltage drop will occur at a distance away from the original feed point.
Yes, that is an issue, especially with smaller rail. I normally add a feeder every three feet or so. That should be plenty and probably overkill. But more feeders obviously helps decrease risks with rail joiners failing to transmit as much power too.
@@StevesTrains Thank you, Appreciated
Label those switches or not for total confusion😂
Will Kato Japanese (non US) starter kit's ddc power controllers and power run on US eletrical current or is it meant for Japanese current? I'm interested kato N scale trains in Japanese packaging.
You need to specify a part number.
Japan runs on 100V and either 50Hz (Eastern Japan) or 60Hz (Western Japan)*
*Most* Japanese products are designed with dual-frequency in mind and have electronics to match.
*Most* Japanese products are 100-120V, meaning: *most* Japanese products will work in the US with nothing more than a passive (physical) adapter.
For example, Kato 20-853 will ship with a Kato Power Pack SX,
Part number 22-018-1 in US guise or 22-018BK-1 in Japanese.
Both rely on a 12V input. which is supplied by the 22-082.
If you buy this from Japan, it's a 100V-240V and 50/60Hz input that is stepped down to 12 volts (further stepped down to 3 by one of the above power units.)
As a result: yes, if you buy a set from Japan, the most you should expect to supply is either
A) a passive adapter
B) US Kato wall cable to replace the one that comes with the kit (may only be sold in 22-082)
The Kato Charger and Superliner in this video uses a universal power supply, regardless of origin.
Any sets or parts that don't use the listed power supplies will need to be individually researched.
Also, I'm just some random on the Internet. Make sure to check with the seller. The box should plainly state 100-240V and 50/60Hz.
(*"The frequency of electric current is 50 Hertz in eastern Japan (including Tokyo, Yokohama, Tohoku, Hokkaido) and 60 Hertz in western Japan (including Nagoya, Osaka, Kyoto, Hiroshima, Shikoku, Kyushu")
@tim3172 great info thanks. I'm interested in this set...Hankyu Corp 9300 series 10-024. It's a Japanese subway car set
For me, 19" radius track is the minimum. 12.5 is just too sharp a curve for trains to look good, especially the passenger stock. That's just me though, not everyone agrees.
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Remember, if you get the Amtrak set, it has three speeds. Slow, very slow, and impossibly slow.
Your just missing ONE thing with this
One of them switches that is used for double track that can get you from the outside loop to the inside one by changing the tracks .
That’s what your missing . A right or left hand will work fine enough !
Yes, they do make the cross over sets too.
@@StevesTrains was it the V7 I believe … try get one of them .
Semi curious in Reviving my N scale fantasies .
Looked at Kato. Underwhelmed frankly.. the stuff looks like Kiddie toys. NO sale !
Pleasantly disappointing! 🤣
#4 Turnouts.
Fine with everything else… but why can’t they do something as simple as adding the notch they already put on the compact turnouts to fix the #4s… for that one point alone, I recommend NOONE get into Kato unless you’re ONLY using temporary layouts.
9:25 Very nice feature! (That baby blue color is hideous though.)
Kato seems to only know how to make high quality products. If I didn't have 60 years in HO, I'd definitely get Kato N scale.
Have you seen Mike Fifer's layout? He uses Kato track, but has made a layout comparable to what you can create with flexi track. So, you aren't even limited to fixed track plans with the Kato system should you want to expand later. Link to his channel:
www.youtube.com/@N-Scale/videos
Yes, his videos got me started in N scale actually. All my N scale project layouts I’ve built have used Kato unitrack. I have a lot of Kato unitrack track plans on my website as well: www.steves-trains.com/post/n-scale-track-plans
Just wish Kato would come out with a 30° crossing
Just wish Kato would come out with a 30° crossing
Yes, more crossing angles would be nice.