Hi! not sure if much help but here are some of the steps that I implement when doing large prints. Lower the density of the supports in the slicer. The less support the fewer nobs. Just make sure to target all islands. To get a nice seme between pieces print those pieces away from the build plate and with no supports. It leaves you with some nice smooth connections. When filling I use Miliput and water to smooth and wood filler both work great than a combination of priming and sanding. I do not fill my drain holes as I add them in places that are never going to be seen, Either between two pieces that lock.
I find it's actually better to do lots of light supports rather than medium/heavy. The medium/heavy supports leaves nubs/potmarks, but the light supports, at least for me, do not. I also use hot water when removing the light supports, which also helps prevent nubs/pot marks. So I don't have to do any cleanup work with supports. However, I will sometimes add a few medium supports if the piece is particularly large/heavy in certain areas.
I built an "internal" curing light with a UV led bulb and a battery pack. It had enough wire so that I can insert it into the inside of a hollowed model and cure any resin in the interior of the model. One of the drain hole needs to be at least 4mm in diameter. I saw a video of how to make it here on UA-cam somewhere. Can't remember who did it.
I’ve seen several videos of similar type of lighting. Haven’t made anything as of yet. I’ve just made my cleaning in IPA much more rigorous and drying everything longer. If I ever have anything continue to ooze I just clean and dry it again. So far only one model has needed that.
Having a good resin helps. Some resins are a pain and has issues with supports. I peel off the supports right after printing, then do a 2 stage wash. One to get the majority of the resin off, then a second to have a cleaner model. Once it is clean and dry, I do an initial cure, then cure inside the holes. Ill superglue pieces together and use resin and a UV flashlight to fill gaps. I'll then sand it or carve back in the texture if needed.
I recently watched a Loot Studios vid where they recommended creating mixtures of varying consistencies with resin and talcum powder. They advise mixing this in opaque containers that can be closed/sealed. Apply w/ a silicone brush and in steps so you can cure w/ UV light between each step. I haven’t tried this yet since I just watched the video earlier today, but I’ll be attempting this method soon!
That’s an ok method on anything that’s flat with no texture. If you’re trying to fill a seam that has texture, I wouldn’t use it because when you cure it, it will be flat and stand out. I have a newer video showing the use of UV putty, which is my current method I use.
hi, you can keep the `hole` you dig out, print it and then use it to plug the hole in the model back in along with your resin and light process it will work great. check the options when you select to dig the hole in your slicer
Very true. But on almost all the models I get and print, they are already hollow and presupported. Which I was referencing in this video. I am getting into upscaling a lot of stuff which I have to hollow and pop the holes. I’ll give that a try and see how it goes. Thanks for the tip.
Have you used a hot water rinse before removing the supports? I do this before removing supports and alcohol washing my prints. The supports come off far more easily and leave less marks. Picked up this tip from various content creators, and many had only recently heard of this after years of printing. Risk can be softening the model the longer it's in the hot water. After each wash I like to airbrush with just air any moisture.
So I only do large prints. 1/4 scale and above. I use files, sandpaper, rotary tool with diamond, stone and metal burrs. For filling needs I only use air dry clay, spakle and resin. I find clay easier to use then epoxy. I can sculpt it better and it sands easier when needed. I only fill seams if there's a gap. I use resin with liquid mask to keep the parts separated. It's hard to explain in text alone. Prep work takes longer then painting and not as fun, but we'll worth the time and effort.
If you've still got resin leaking out after curing then you're not cleaning them good enough. You gotta give prints an IPA bath, dunk those things and let the IPA fill up the insides, let it run out, repeat several times, then let it dry for a day before curing. You can also use an air compressor to blow out the excess IPA from the insides. If you don't get all the resin out before filling the drain holes your model could develop "resin sists" a month or year later due to the resin gassing off.
Thanks for the comment. I made this video a year ago, but since then I’ve drastically changed how I process my prints. Basically everything you just said is what I’ve been doing since this video was made. Even filling the drain holes has changed. I used to use epoxy clay, but now use phrozen I’ve putty. So much easier and faster. It used to take me a week with the clay but now only an hour of so, with the putty. Sooo much easier.
I start by making sure they are completely dry however when using heavy supports i deal with them before the curing process I recently printed out a Monster and at 180% I mostly try to place the drain holes where the parts connect so they remain hidden and I don’t have to fill them. I start by sanding down the stuff from the supports with a heavy grit making my way down to a grit around 800-1000 which basically polishes. I recently got a model kit that came with some sort of sponge thing that does a better job. After i use the miliputty rolling it out to get rid of the like then make a light solution mixed with water to remove holes or opening made by the shrinking and apply it with an old paint brush since it basically will destroy it lol. Sanding sticks really helped me get into those tight spaces. To remove scratch marks from the sanding i found that a light coat of resin really goes a long way.
I just found you channel and the questions you have asked are once I've not focused on really since I'm in what I call the beginner stages of printing and it really has to do with support size and how far into the model those supports touch. I've been working on this and having great luck. Thanks for you info and I look forward to seeing what you do going forward I've thought about a Loot sub I just haven't pulled the trigger and glue it will in time shrink and it not even the best material to use you have the light and resin I would use that anyway glad to meet another 3d modeler. 🙂Thomas over at The Model Hobbyist
Hey thanks for watching and the nice comments. I loved your model T with the Missouri highway patrol on it, just sayin. I’m still new to printing only been a year now. My biggest problem is I have memory issues so I can never remember day to day what my work flow is. Ohhh the joy of getting old! Thanks again for being here!
There is no text book way of doing this, everyone has a different method and tools to use. Every model will bring about its own challenges and its easy to get frustrated. One of the best things I did is switch to translucent resin, I use Siraya Tech Fast Smoky Black exclusivly. I can print a little faster and when I use resin to fill holes and defects the UV light will cure the inside better, less seepage later and reduces your chance of ruining the model by cracking.When I empty a bottle of resin I fill pin applicators with the leftovers, it works wonders just keep it out of sunlight and away from the UV torch. After I wash my prints in IPA I put my prints in hot water with a small amount of purple degreaser, it helps with residual resin. The hot water helps the supports pop off with a minimal amount of scarring. Before I cure, I take a needle file and knock all the nubs down or scrape with an hobby knife, the material is softer before its cured. I use a bright light and sense of touch to find other areas the supports were and process them as before. Once i'm happy I cure it. Pending the amount of detail I use fill primer(aerosol) and sand and sand and sand until i'm happy. The only airbrush primer I like that does a good job with filling and lays flat is Badger Stylinrez primers. That stuff is fantastic, you can hose it on and repeat multiple times. Plus its sandable if need be. Often times I find area or spots i miss so Use Spot putty or Green Stuff, fill and light sand and re-prime. Drain holes are something I try to hide as best as can, I usually can fill with Green Stuff or resin if need be. Phrozen has a resin putty that just hit the market, I have not used it yet. Support placement and orientation is key. I support islands and usually put a couple heavies is about all that I do. On large capes and bases that in multiple pieces its best to orient and not support the mating sides for best fitment. I use a mixture of sanding pads, Emery cloth, needle files and so forth to finish. Hell I use straws, chop sticks the small black plastic wiring loom to get the shapes some times. For seams I use Green Stuff, Super glue and baking soda, Apoxie Sculpt, resin..the list goes on. It depends on how I can process it the best. It all just depends on what I'm working with. I hope this helps to some extent, its a daunting task. Sometimes you have to think outside the box and do what works for you.
Thank you! UA-cam for me is nothing more than a hobby. I’m a disabled retired veteran with memory issues, if it’s not already obvious, I struggle with remembering phrases or words. This is as big as my channel will ever be hopefully! It’s actually gone far beyond my expectations already lol. Have a great day!
The video is kinda long and slow so i got up to 6:45 and you are saying that you will get oozing if you don't fill your drain holes. What i wonder is why would there be any resin leaking out in the first place, you clean the prints out in IPA and make sure if hollow, that the insides get properly washed as well, then that's it. If there would be resin in there and you would fill the drain hole, resin would eventually eat away at it regardless (so i have been told, i haven't had experience with it personally as i clean them well). So in a nutshell, clean hollows well, don't fill drain holes unless they are in noticeable places or you actually care how under the skirt of minis look, and use miliput / green stuff to fill in the gaps between parts. For cleaning supports, i use a blade and files of various grit. Good luck
yeah, trapped resin can cause the model to break or even explode. Happened to me once. Forgot to place drainholes, noticed it after I printed it and left it in a container to deal with at some other time. Few days later it broke and resin started oozing out. You definitely dont want to have that happen to a painted model xD. Also could cause a dangerous situation as it's resin after all.
He needs to buy himself some UV led's (you can easily get them on Amazon along with the power outlet connection) and you just put the UV led's inside to cure the resin.
I have a monthly subscription with loot studios and everything I print comes from there. Except for my corrupted tenjin, that came from black forge games.
The demon is Od Dracne, Lord of Bones, from the June 2022 bundle. Nightmares of the Abyss. Let me know how the tenjin work out for you. The corrupted tenjin is one of my absolute favorites!
That’s extremely difficult to say because I print such a wide range of figures. Some are small and others are massive. The large demon I believe took close to a full bottle (1kg). Plus the printing process has a very large amount of supports which takes up a lot of resin.
Yeh dry brush. I don’t know if you know that or not, if not I’m happy to make a video about even though there are a ton of videos out there about it. But dry brushing your primer is best method because it doesn’t leave brush marks. Just my opinion.
Understand this video is from a 11 months ago. At that time, I was using my anycubic mono x, which is now in the trash. I currently run a elegoo Saturn 2. And even my process for cleaning up prints and seams has completely changed. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hi! not sure if much help but here are some of the steps that I implement when doing large prints. Lower the density of the supports in the slicer. The less support the fewer nobs. Just make sure to target all islands. To get a nice seme between pieces print those pieces away from the build plate and with no supports. It leaves you with some nice smooth connections. When filling I use Miliput and water to smooth and wood filler both work great than a combination of priming and sanding. I do not fill my drain holes as I add them in places that are never going to be seen, Either between two pieces that lock.
I find it's actually better to do lots of light supports rather than medium/heavy. The medium/heavy supports leaves nubs/potmarks, but the light supports, at least for me, do not. I also use hot water when removing the light supports, which also helps prevent nubs/pot marks. So I don't have to do any cleanup work with supports. However, I will sometimes add a few medium supports if the piece is particularly large/heavy in certain areas.
try tamiya putty for the really small seams you can also thin it with water and brush it in if you want
I built an "internal" curing light with a UV led bulb and a battery pack. It had enough wire so that I can insert it into the inside of a hollowed model and cure any resin in the interior of the model. One of the drain hole needs to be at least 4mm in diameter. I saw a video of how to make it here on UA-cam somewhere. Can't remember who did it.
I’ve seen several videos of similar type of lighting. Haven’t made anything as of yet. I’ve just made my cleaning in IPA much more rigorous and drying everything longer. If I ever have anything continue to ooze I just clean and dry it again. So far only one model has needed that.
Having a good resin helps. Some resins are a pain and has issues with supports. I peel off the supports right after printing, then do a 2 stage wash. One to get the majority of the resin off, then a second to have a cleaner model. Once it is clean and dry, I do an initial cure, then cure inside the holes. Ill superglue pieces together and use resin and a UV flashlight to fill gaps. I'll then sand it or carve back in the texture if needed.
I recently watched a Loot Studios vid where they recommended creating mixtures of varying consistencies with resin and talcum powder. They advise mixing this in opaque containers that can be closed/sealed. Apply w/ a silicone brush and in steps so you can cure w/ UV light between each step. I haven’t tried this yet since I just watched the video earlier today, but I’ll be attempting this method soon!
That’s an ok method on anything that’s flat with no texture. If you’re trying to fill a seam that has texture, I wouldn’t use it because when you cure it, it will be flat and stand out. I have a newer video showing the use of UV putty, which is my current method I use.
hi, you can keep the `hole` you dig out, print it and then use it to plug the hole in the model back in along with your resin and light process it will work great. check the options when you select to dig the hole in your slicer
Very true. But on almost all the models I get and print, they are already hollow and presupported. Which I was referencing in this video. I am getting into upscaling a lot of stuff which I have to hollow and pop the holes. I’ll give that a try and see how it goes. Thanks for the tip.
Have you used a hot water rinse before removing the supports?
I do this before removing supports and alcohol washing my prints. The supports come off far more easily and leave less marks.
Picked up this tip from various content creators, and many had only recently heard of this after years of printing. Risk can be softening the model the longer it's in the hot water.
After each wash I like to airbrush with just air any moisture.
Yes I have. I didn’t care for it. I still had support dimples and a lot of times the piece would break if it were on small or thin parts.
So I only do large prints. 1/4 scale and above. I use files, sandpaper, rotary tool with diamond, stone and metal burrs. For filling needs I only use air dry clay, spakle and resin. I find clay easier to use then epoxy. I can sculpt it better and it sands easier when needed.
I only fill seams if there's a gap. I use resin with liquid mask to keep the parts separated. It's hard to explain in text alone. Prep work takes longer then painting and not as fun, but we'll worth the time and effort.
If you've still got resin leaking out after curing then you're not cleaning them good enough. You gotta give prints an IPA bath, dunk those things and let the IPA fill up the insides, let it run out, repeat several times, then let it dry for a day before curing. You can also use an air compressor to blow out the excess IPA from the insides. If you don't get all the resin out before filling the drain holes your model could develop "resin sists" a month or year later due to the resin gassing off.
Thanks for the comment. I made this video a year ago, but since then I’ve drastically changed how I process my prints. Basically everything you just said is what I’ve been doing since this video was made. Even filling the drain holes has changed. I used to use epoxy clay, but now use phrozen I’ve putty. So much easier and faster. It used to take me a week with the clay but now only an hour of so, with the putty. Sooo much easier.
I start by making sure they are completely dry however when using heavy supports i deal with them before the curing process I recently printed out a Monster and at 180% I mostly try to place the drain holes where the parts connect so they remain hidden and I don’t have to fill them. I start by sanding down the stuff from the supports with a heavy grit making my way down to a grit around 800-1000 which basically polishes. I recently got a model kit that came with some sort of sponge thing that does a better job. After i use the miliputty rolling it out to get rid of the like then make a light solution mixed with water to remove holes or opening made by the shrinking and apply it with an old paint brush since it basically will destroy it lol. Sanding sticks really helped me get into those tight spaces. To remove scratch marks from the sanding i found that a light coat of resin really goes a long way.
I’m still fairly new as well so take what i do as self assessed solutions
Not sure if anyone mentioned it yet since it's been a year, but you can save your drain plugs and then glue them back after its clean and drained.
Yeh I’m aware. But most everything I print, is presupported.
I just found you channel and the questions you have asked are once I've not focused on really since I'm in what I call the beginner stages of printing and it really has to do with support size and how far into the model those supports touch. I've been working on this and having great luck. Thanks for you info and I look forward to seeing what you do going forward I've thought about a Loot sub I just haven't pulled the trigger and glue it will in time shrink and it not even the best material to use you have the light and resin I would use that anyway glad to meet another 3d modeler. 🙂Thomas over at The Model Hobbyist
Yeah those figures are so super cool and there is a guy I would suggest The Creative Collector give him a look he is awesome
Hey thanks for watching and the nice comments. I loved your model T with the Missouri highway patrol on it, just sayin. I’m still new to printing only been a year now. My biggest problem is I have memory issues so I can never remember day to day what my work flow is. Ohhh the joy of getting old! Thanks again for being here!
There is no text book way of doing this, everyone has a different method and tools to use. Every model will bring about its own challenges and its easy to get frustrated.
One of the best things I did is switch to translucent resin, I use Siraya Tech Fast Smoky Black exclusivly. I can print a little faster and when I use resin to fill holes and defects the UV light will cure the inside better, less seepage later and reduces your chance of ruining the model by cracking.When I empty a bottle of resin I fill pin applicators with the leftovers, it works wonders just keep it out of sunlight and away from the UV torch.
After I wash my prints in IPA I put my prints in hot water with a small amount of purple degreaser, it helps with residual resin. The hot water helps the supports pop off with a minimal amount of scarring. Before I cure, I take a needle file and knock all the nubs down or scrape with an hobby knife, the material is softer before its cured. I use a bright light and sense of touch to find other areas the supports were and process them as before. Once i'm happy I cure it.
Pending the amount of detail I use fill primer(aerosol) and sand and sand and sand until i'm happy. The only airbrush primer I like that does a good job with filling and lays flat is Badger Stylinrez primers. That stuff is fantastic, you can hose it on and repeat multiple times. Plus its sandable if need be. Often times I find area or spots i miss so Use Spot putty or Green Stuff, fill and light sand and re-prime.
Drain holes are something I try to hide as best as can, I usually can fill with Green Stuff or resin if need be. Phrozen has a resin putty that just hit the market, I have not used it yet. Support placement and orientation is key. I support islands and usually put a couple heavies is about all that I do. On large capes and bases that in multiple pieces its best to orient and not support the mating sides for best fitment.
I use a mixture of sanding pads, Emery cloth, needle files and so forth to finish. Hell I use straws, chop sticks the small black plastic wiring loom to get the shapes some times. For seams I use Green Stuff, Super glue and baking soda, Apoxie Sculpt, resin..the list goes on. It depends on how I can process it the best. It all just depends on what I'm working with.
I hope this helps to some extent, its a daunting task. Sometimes you have to think outside the box and do what works for you.
ooh it's looking good! Good luck with your future on YT! :D
Thank you! UA-cam for me is nothing more than a hobby. I’m a disabled retired veteran with memory issues, if it’s not already obvious, I struggle with remembering phrases or words. This is as big as my channel will ever be hopefully! It’s actually gone far beyond my expectations already lol. Have a great day!
@@NosterRex You have a great day too! I love to see people just doing what they love. :)
I use a little spray gun with some water and a battery powered nail file
Can’t you melt the resin together? So you got less gaps
“Melting” is an fdm thing. It doesn’t work with resin printing. At least not that I know.
The video is kinda long and slow so i got up to 6:45 and you are saying that you will get oozing if you don't fill your drain holes. What i wonder is why would there be any resin leaking out in the first place, you clean the prints out in IPA and make sure if hollow, that the insides get properly washed as well, then that's it. If there would be resin in there and you would fill the drain hole, resin would eventually eat away at it regardless (so i have been told, i haven't had experience with it personally as i clean them well). So in a nutshell, clean hollows well, don't fill drain holes unless they are in noticeable places or you actually care how under the skirt of minis look, and use miliput / green stuff to fill in the gaps between parts. For cleaning supports, i use a blade and files of various grit. Good luck
yeah, trapped resin can cause the model to break or even explode. Happened to me once. Forgot to place drainholes, noticed it after I printed it and left it in a container to deal with at some other time. Few days later it broke and resin started oozing out. You definitely dont want to have that happen to a painted model xD. Also could cause a dangerous situation as it's resin after all.
He needs to buy himself some UV led's (you can easily get them on Amazon along with the power outlet connection) and you just put the UV led's inside to cure the resin.
where's that huge guy from?
I have a monthly subscription with loot studios and everything I print comes from there. Except for my corrupted tenjin, that came from black forge games.
@@NosterRex I bought both Tenjins too. Gonna print them soon.
What bundle is that demon from? I got some bundles from Loot but didnt see that guy
The demon is Od Dracne, Lord of Bones, from the June 2022 bundle. Nightmares of the Abyss. Let me know how the tenjin work out for you. The corrupted tenjin is one of my absolute favorites!
its such a shame when they come out wrong or with loads of holes in, you cant melt them down again like wax and redo them
such an expensive waste
The reason your digging in is because your using the wrong tips. I use the dremel tips for doing fingernails. They work beautiful.
Thanks I’ll check that out.
how many ml of resin you consume for 1 figure?
That’s extremely difficult to say because I print such a wide range of figures. Some are small and others are massive. The large demon I believe took close to a full bottle (1kg). Plus the printing process has a very large amount of supports which takes up a lot of resin.
anyone have tips on brush priming
Yeh dry brush. I don’t know if you know that or not, if not I’m happy to make a video about even though there are a ton of videos out there about it. But dry brushing your primer is best method because it doesn’t leave brush marks. Just my opinion.
@Noster Rex ok ill try it
which printer?
Understand this video is from a 11 months ago. At that time, I was using my anycubic mono x, which is now in the trash. I currently run a elegoo Saturn 2. And even my process for cleaning up prints and seams has completely changed. Thanks for watching and commenting.