Wonderfully edited video! I followed along with your Narsil project recently to make a gift for a friend, and it worked absolutely perfectly with the graphite paint. Working on making a nickel and copper chess set now! Thank you so much for your videos on this relatively niche hobby. I honestly couldn't do it without these guides.
What was the binder you used? Idk where you are, but the linked stuff doesn't ship to my country, nor could I find a chemical name for translation. (Cause when he said 2 part glue, my mind went to epoxy or super glue)
@@Robert-cl8oy I'm having a hard time finding fine enough graphite powder. I have some that is labeled as 400 mesh and it seems to big to use in an airbrush, clogs all the time.
Thank you! It was your channel that stated me down the path of electroplating resin prints, and I've been watching ever since. You do a really good job explaining everything, and the results you have are inspiring. I've been experimenting with graphite conductive paint for months, with very mixed results using everything from different inks and glues as the binder, different amounts of graphite, etc. I also purchased silver conductive paint (really good, but really expensive), and nickel conductive paint (not so conductive and too thick for airbrush). If I could afford silver conductive paint, then I'd always use that. I used your recipe, but couldn't get the same UHU glue locally here in Australia. I substituted with Gorilla Super Glue XL. I think the concept here is it needs to dissolve in solvent so the glue becomes more binding once the Acetone evaporates off. The glue needs to adhere to resin plastic really well, so I went with a super glue. After a few tests, I found the following works best: 40g Acetone 2g Gorilla Super Glue 5g Graphite This only required 2 coats to obtain an even coat of copper. Each coat dried in under a minute (used airbrush to dry the part), and I polished with a cloth and toothbrush between coats. This works well airbrushing or dipping the part. Haven't tried brushing it on yet. I feel I've discovered the holy grail of conductive paint, and all thanks to you. Thanks again. Looking forward to more great content.
Hey I'm also based in Aus and have been having no luck getting my diy paints to go through my .3mm airbrush. Mind letting me know what graphite brand you've found that works?
Asking the same question, what graphite did you use? Looking to follow these tutorials he puts up but sadly all his affiliate links are not for the Amazon in the US
What adhesive do you use in your graphite solution? Is it just essential plastic model glue? An a 2part (A&B) adhesive? Please explain further. Thank you.
All the doubts about costs and space requirements and health safety in setting something like this up myself fade away like snow in the sun the moment you put something in that gold bath 😍
The best video I watched in a while! Both the quality of it and the idea it's just perfect. I just wanted to find out how to electroplate a rotor in copper, but stayed for the beauty of your prints!
I like all your videos, and inspired by your results and i got 3 questions 1. what nozzle size you are using air brush to paint graphite coating 0.3mm or 9.5mm or 0.8mm 2.what chemicals used for gold plating solution 3. what solution used for silver plating solution and i am creating acrylic laser cut to paint gold and silver finish
You could use this binder: amzn.to/44sVm1P this also works but needs time to dissolve: amzn.to/3KZpyui you could get the graphite here: www.graphite-shop.com/de/mikro-graphit-14my-994my-995.html
Amazing video (you deserve more subs!). I have tried plating and I have found that meticulous polishing of graphite, moving the print as it is plating are mandatory, as well as generally taking your time. It is quite an expensive hobby, however, and I wouldn't recommend it to people without the money to spend.
I wonder if you can put a pump in the bath and force the solution through a filter and reintroduced into the bath causing a liquid current. That coupled with the rotating part would give better flow of (fresh) solution touching the part.
Have you tried printing with ABS and then acetone smoothing the print? It creates an incredibly shiny surface. I feel like this would eliminate some, if not all, of the sanding required before the graphite/copper/whatever spray used to prep for the electrolyte bath.
Nice video! I have a question. Can they be used for brass plating? I mean, after the copper plating, rinsing them with an alcaline bath with zinc to get them covered with a nice zin plating and then heating them to get the copper migrate to the surface, giving it the golden look typical of brass. If it can be done it would be great for “gold plating” stuff that we don’t really need or want a real gold plating for like props or things like that. All this while being easier and cheaper. Not to get away with gold, it’s just for different uses. Gold is fragile when in 24k form, but if you want really really bright gold you can’t go wrong with real gold
Yes, it’s exactly working as you said. I Never do this as it’s a little hard to handle. I mean, yes it’s cheaper but a quick gold finish isn’t that expensive either.
Amazing result! Question @hen3drik - why did you use ultra-fine 4 um graphite powder as opposed to say 44 um, since conductivity of graphite increases with particle size? Is there another factor outside of conductivity?
Totally beautifull!! ThNks to your pokeball video now I'm in addicted to electroplate 3d prints, two of this are successful, i need more practicce. Now ... i use here in eeuu for do the graphite paint something call it "bulldog" is a liquid plastic adhesive, a little expensive but works amazing, i can brush the piece whit a towel and never peel out... turning more shiny every time and become a lot more conductive 0.1. This help me a lot!! Thanks for you videos and explanations. I'm going to trying now the "gold bait"🦾🦾🦾
I used the light blue: www.google.de/search?q=uhu+schnellfest+35g&client=safari&sa=X&sca_esv=564736079&hl=de-de&biw=390&bih=661&tbm=shop&ei=V6kAZfG9GKO7xc8PhKyG0As&oq=uhu+schnellfest+35g&gs_lp=Eg5tb2JpbGUtc2gtc2VycCITdWh1IHNjaG5lbGxmZXN0IDM1ZzIIEAAYFhgeGBgyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyChAhGBYYHhgYGB1I9CFQ3w5YtSBwAXgAkAEAmAGWAaAB8gKqAQMzLjG4AQPIAQD4AQGKAhJtb2JpbGUtc2gtd2l6LXNlcnDCAgoQABiKBRiwAxhDwgIIEAAYgAQYsAPCAgoQABgYGIAEGLADwgIJEAAYCBgeGLADwgIJEAAYHhgYGLADwgIHEAAYigUYQ8ICBxAAGBgYgATCAgYQABgWGB6IBgGQBgg&sclient=mobile-sh-serp
Can you add or remove other pieces from the copper bath process by adjusting the calculated amps accordingly? That way you are using just one bath and power supply and then do an assembly line process
Do you share the "rotary jig" printing files? I checked your printables profile, but could find it. I would appreciate it! I enjoy your amazing videos since I encoutered them!
Thank you so much! I printed it already and try some tests with the ring. I appreciate your videos so much! I still have some trouble with the power supply. Sometimes it switches from CC to CV and I'm confused. But I hope I will figure this out.
thank you for the detailed and instructive video! Would it be possible for you to share more details about putting together a rotating jig to rotate the prints in the bath? I can’t find instructions on putting it together anywhere- thank you!
Moin moin. Klasse Videos.😊 Inspiriert von deinen Videos habe ich mir von Tifoo ein Starterset für die Galvanisierung und das Kupferleitspray, Palladium etc. gekauft. Warum erhalte ich nach vier Stunden Galvanisieren ein Objekt, was voller Pickel ist und wo die Kupferschicht bröckelt? Liegt das am Laborgerät, der Trockenzeit vom Kupferleitspray oder an den Einstellungen? Oder liegt es am Draht, den ich zum Eintauchen verwende? Geräteeinstellungen habe ich von der Tifoo Tabelle entnommen. Vielen Dank.😊 Grüße aus dem Münsterland.
Du hast vermutlich eine zu starke Feldstärke. 3Ddruck Oberfläche ausrechnen, Quadratdezimeter = Strom. Auf diesen Wert einstellen (über den Strom, nicht Spannung). Druck 10-15 cm von der Anode halten.
Hello, I love your work. Very delicate with those figurines. I have a carbon fiber spinner, which has a white on the outside. I would love to plate it with a chrome like finish. Its 15 in in diameter and 17 in long. Which steps should I take? Do you think the plating is durable enough to stand the elements?
Hey there, I am writting this comment because I have been trying this experiment but only the copper "electroplates" (graphite layers does not change at all ) getting dull, is there a reason? Edit: After checking the 3dprint with a multimeter there is much higher Resistance than before, is that because of the adhesive I am using?
How bad would it be if I used a tumbler again for polishing after the copper phase before nickel plating? Would that work or do I have to go with 1000 grit sandpaper?
Excellent information! Quick question do you know of a Copper conductive paint that’s available to buy & I can use in my Airbrush? I’ve got a nickel plating setup already. Just looking for best product for the Copper or Graphic conductive coat?? Thanks! Lee
Hello, exactly which Binder product have you used? The graphite powder and acetone are clear, but there are many Binders and small differences make it impossible to use them with an airbrush.
Alright finally got everything ordered. Going to try this out at the end of the month. I got a few questions though. You say measure for 1k to 2k ohms but your meter is showing 17k ohm in the video? Also why did the first flying lady not workout? Did you not test? Can I use a buffing wheel with no polishing compound on the graphite to polish it or is microfiber rag enough? Does the UHU two part work better then the UHU hart? I ordered the UHU hart.
Hi, ignore the ohm meter. Try to apply several thin coats of graphite until you hit the spot around 1k. Polish between the layers. A rag is enough. You can use Uhu hart. Make sure it dissolves completely. Good luck!
This is amazing! I notice you always start with copper, if I want to make something silver or nickel, do I have to start w copper plating or can I just go to a nickel? Also, is the nickel plating toxic st all once it’s on the object?
how does that diy graphite base compares to the copper paint you used to use? My experience with graphite was never good, the metal would separate from the print by the graphite layer
Layer adhesion has never been an issue for me when the whole part is plated. This is for copper and graphite. I think it’s the thickness of the conductive paint not being too big.
This could work magic in scale modeling applications but how safe is to do it? how easily you can find all the products needed? I have 0 experience when it comes to chemical and reactions so I'm scared of trying this :))
Do you have links to the particular binder and graphite powders you used? Having mixed results with the brands in using and would really like better stuff.
You could use this binder: amzn.to/44sVm1P this also works but needs time to dissolve: amzn.to/3KZpyui you could get the graphite here: www.graphite-shop.com/de/mikro-graphit-14my-994my-995.html
You have two binder examples from Amazon. One is a cement and the other a two part epoxy. I don't see you mixing a two component before the acetone so I'm guessing it's the cement in your video?
Your Videos are fantastic. Have you tried a magnetic stirrer to keep the electrolyte moving around the object? I have to plate a large flat object and I can use a long and narrow tank to save on electrolyte but it would not have the space to rotate...
Hey! Great video! Some model paint brands (Vallejo I think) also have conductive paint. Do you think these would work as a conductive layer for electroplating prints?
AS its a nightmare to find the graphite can you give us a link to buy powder. As for post print prep can you tumble the part in walnut shell prior to applying graphite coating?
Moin Hendrik, in dem Video schlug der erste Beschichtungsversuch mit dem Kupferelektrolyt fehl und du meintest das der Grafitleitlack nicht genug leitfähig war. Beim zweiten Versuch hat es dann funktioniert. Mich würde interessieren was du beim zweiten Versuch anders gemacht hast, so das es geklappt hat bzw. welchen Fehler hattest du beim ersten Versuch gemacht das es nicht funktioniert hat ? Schließlich hattest du ja auch im ersten Versuch die Figur sichtlich dick genug Lackiert gehabt und sie wurde auch vor dem Galvanisieren poliert um die Leitfähigkeit zu erhöhen. Und trotzdem hat es nicht funktioniert. Warum ??? Mich würde brennend interessieren woran es gelegen hat , damit ich solche Fehler im vorraus bei meinen eigenen Projekten nicht machen muss. Vielen Dank und mach weiter so 👍👍👍 LG
Der graphitlack war ungleichmäßig aufgetragen. Ich hatte an einer guten Stelle gemessen und dann auf das gesamte Teil geschlossen. More layers(!) did the job.
@@hen3drik Danke für die Antwort ! Gut zu wissen. Werde drei Lagen Grafitlack sicherheitshalber lackieren. Vermutlich muss man nicht zwischen jeder Schicht das Objekt polieren? LG
My silver electrolyte flakes off on copper + nickel. That’s why I apply a thin gold layer. Not all metals are compatible to each other. I‘ll think about explaining this in future videos.
4:11 Hier sagst Du 1-2k und das Multimeter zeigt 17k und dennoch hat das vergolden geklappt? Oder wurde noch mal nach "conductiviert"? Manchmal verstehe ich diese Kanal nicht. Sagt A meint B und das Ergebnis ist C ...
Great video. I was looking into the binder. It looks like the Epoxy Part 1 is the epoxy only, not the harter (hardener). In that case the Binder under the UHU SDS that Hen3drik used is bisphenol-a-(epichlorhydrin) epoxy resin or BPA. Of course this is the same BPA that has health effects for brain, prostate gland of fetuses to children, so exercise caution and PPE. Or find an alternative epoxy resin as your binder.
It probably can since it's basically only the BPA portion. I ended up using PVA white glue as my binder with graphite powder instead of BPA for the safe side. It's the same formula as wire glue. It may need more binder than BPA.
I tried the exact graphite recipe from the same company (4 micron graphite, uhu binder and some pure acetone). The results were not great, it took 6 coats and a light polish with microfibre cloth in between just to get 1.7Kohms. It basically didn't adhere properly to the print so being slightly too rough with the microfibre took it off. A big thank you to one of the commenters here (@Robert-cl8oy) on using 2g Gorilla Super Glue in place of the 1g UHU. It worked perfectly! 1st coat= 3Mohm, 2nd coat =1.3Kohm, 3rd coat= 700ohm. Each layer dried in under a minute and binded really well to the part. Worked well with a 0.4 airbrush.
Hi, ich hab mir das jetzt n paar mal angeschaut. Ich verstehe jetzt nicht, wie ich an chrom komme? Sehe jetzt nur Kupfer oder Gold. Welcher Faktor macht es aus, was das Endergebnis ist? Muss man eine andere Lösung / Säure nehmen oder liegt es an den Platten. Ich möchte wirklich nur Chrom haben. Lg
Kupfer für die dicke grundschicht. Dann Nickel/Palladium als dünne sperrschicht damit das nicht mit dem Gold diffundiert. Wenn du nur Chrom willst Go Kupfer->chrom/Palladium oder cu->ni/pd->au->ag
I don't know what kind of binder would work like what he has, but I have been having great luck with a mixture of just Speedball India Ink and graphite powder. Start with a 50/50 mix then adjust as needed. I did 5 tbsp of ink and 6 tbsp of graphite, worked pretty good, made it through an airbrush no problem, just need to clean the airbrush really good immediately after using. Water works fine for that too which is pretty awesome. Just follow the same steps in the vid, spray, polish, spray, polish etc... for a really good base layer. You are looking for continuity of less than 4k, but I can easily get less than 1k. Just make sure whatever you are spraying on is nice and clean, and any under layers are fully cured. Any off gassing will cause the graphite to crack, which looks super cool if that is the effect you are going for
Yes. I use a "gloss glazing liquid" which is a slow drying clear acrylic. Then I add 2:1 graphite by volume to it. Typically only a table spoon of liquid and 2 tablespoons of graphite is enough for most of my prints. Then I let it dry well and polish it. After polishing it is usually around 200 ohms / cm which I think is better than he's getting at 2k ohms? Polishing properly seems to be key. You can also manually touch up areas that don't perfectly coat.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Wonderfully edited video! I followed along with your Narsil project recently to make a gift for a friend, and it worked absolutely perfectly with the graphite paint. Working on making a nickel and copper chess set now! Thank you so much for your videos on this relatively niche hobby. I honestly couldn't do it without these guides.
What was the binder you used? Idk where you are, but the linked stuff doesn't ship to my country, nor could I find a chemical name for translation. (Cause when he said 2 part glue, my mind went to epoxy or super glue)
I couldn't get it locally in Australia, either. I found the following works really well:
40g Acetone
2g Gorilla Super Glue
5g Graphite
@@Robert-cl8oy I'm having a hard time finding fine enough graphite powder. I have some that is labeled as 400 mesh and it seems to big to use in an airbrush, clogs all the time.
@@robertmunafo5039 You need a most bigger diameter in your airbrush. Minimum 0.5mm
I really like how you want people to be safe
I try my best!
Yes!!! So good people dont realize bad instructions can lead to very bad health hazards.
Your video quality is insanely good. Thanks for being so detailed
You can also use a fish tank pump to circulate the water instead of rotating the part.
you might still get shadows unless your part is fairly thin, because the voltage isn't uniform, as the distance from the electrode isn't constant.
How about a copper screen basket that that tumbles the part in it like a hamster wheel, will that make enough contact to electroplate?
Excellent. Very informative and helpful. You are obviously very experienced and passionate about this.
Thank you! It was your channel that stated me down the path of electroplating resin prints, and I've been watching ever since. You do a really good job explaining everything, and the results you have are inspiring.
I've been experimenting with graphite conductive paint for months, with very mixed results using everything from different inks and glues as the binder, different amounts of graphite, etc. I also purchased silver conductive paint (really good, but really expensive), and nickel conductive paint (not so conductive and too thick for airbrush). If I could afford silver conductive paint, then I'd always use that.
I used your recipe, but couldn't get the same UHU glue locally here in Australia. I substituted with Gorilla Super Glue XL. I think the concept here is it needs to dissolve in solvent so the glue becomes more binding once the Acetone evaporates off. The glue needs to adhere to resin plastic really well, so I went with a super glue. After a few tests, I found the following works best:
40g Acetone
2g Gorilla Super Glue
5g Graphite
This only required 2 coats to obtain an even coat of copper. Each coat dried in under a minute (used airbrush to dry the part), and I polished with a cloth and toothbrush between coats. This works well airbrushing or dipping the part. Haven't tried brushing it on yet.
I feel I've discovered the holy grail of conductive paint, and all thanks to you.
Thanks again. Looking forward to more great content.
Oh nice, I’ll try that recipe! Glad you are having fun on that journey of electroplating 😃
Please tell me what micron size graphite you are using for your airbrush, that is my biggest stumbling block right now.
Hey I'm also based in Aus and have been having no luck getting my diy paints to go through my .3mm airbrush. Mind letting me know what graphite brand you've found that works?
Asking the same question, what graphite did you use? Looking to follow these tutorials he puts up but sadly all his affiliate links are not for the Amazon in the US
Try water based grout sealer Bunnings sell this . 50/50 with graphite
What adhesive do you use in your graphite solution? Is it just essential plastic model glue? An a 2part (A&B) adhesive? Please explain further. Thank you.
this dude is gate keeping the binder, If I find it out im releasing the information this is mad weird.
Its demonstrated in another video
Damn that looks good! Really want to try this at some point!
That was wonderful. It was very interesting to see how thick the coating was on that damaged piece.
It’s thickness is way more impressive when you feel it. Solid shell.
Please can you share more info about the glue binder you use
Another amazing job! Perfect explanation, really enjoyable video ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Amazing, as always! Sooo shiny!
All the doubts about costs and space requirements and health safety in setting something like this up myself fade away like snow in the sun the moment you put something in that gold bath 😍
I just ended up buying Sahos Graphite Paint on amazon. Works great with 3d prints.
The best video I watched in a while! Both the quality of it and the idea it's just perfect. I just wanted to find out how to electroplate a rotor in copper, but stayed for the beauty of your prints!
I like all your videos, and inspired by your results
and i got 3 questions
1. what nozzle size you are using air brush to paint graphite coating 0.3mm or 9.5mm or 0.8mm
2.what chemicals used for gold plating solution
3. what solution used for silver plating solution
and i am creating acrylic laser cut to paint gold and silver finish
Thanks,
0.5 nozzle size
jaw dropping...top tier craftsmanship
Great tutorial, but can you share more information about the graphite and binder that you use? What products do you use?
You could use this binder:
amzn.to/44sVm1P
this also works but needs time to dissolve:
amzn.to/3KZpyui
you could get the graphite here: www.graphite-shop.com/de/mikro-graphit-14my-994my-995.html
Amazing video (you deserve more subs!). I have tried plating and I have found that meticulous polishing of graphite, moving the print as it is plating are mandatory, as well as generally taking your time. It is quite an expensive hobby, however, and I wouldn't recommend it to people without the money to spend.
Yes, it‘s not an uncomplicated process. I think I (unintentionally) make it look too easy but it‘s actually everything I do you see in the tutorials.
Briliant! Thank you for such a detailed description of something I used to think was best left to the professionals. :)
I wonder if you can put a pump in the bath and force the solution through a filter and reintroduced into the bath causing a liquid current. That coupled with the rotating part would give better flow of (fresh) solution touching the part.
Excellent as always, simply brilliant
Thank you! 😃
beautiful work , nicely done sharing the process . good job !
Can you do a video about the solidity of 3d model eletroplated ? I can be interesting to see the difference before and after 🤩
Can you do one on regular pla?
@@eazyonewiththeforce i prefer a test on resin model ⭐
Any chance that you would share the plans for your part rotating device?
Really enjoying your videos.
I‘ll make a video special about it.
@@hen3drik Amazing reply, I will be looking forward to it. Really enjoying your professional quality videos.
Seems like the graphite bath helped a lot with base layer.
Sooo Awesome!! Great Video
Would be great if you could also include US Amazon links in your description. Awesome work!
So cool and as always so much work went into this so thank you!
What is your electroplating solution ratios? How do you make it?
Super gutes Video, es löst gleich 2 meiner aktuellen Probleme - Dankeschön dafür.
🎉😂
Have you tried printing with ABS and then acetone smoothing the print? It creates an incredibly shiny surface. I feel like this would eliminate some, if not all, of the sanding required before the graphite/copper/whatever spray used to prep for the electrolyte bath.
Unfortunately vapor smoothing doesn’t make the prints even.
Nice video! I have a question. Can they be used for brass plating? I mean, after the copper plating, rinsing them with an alcaline bath with zinc to get them covered with a nice zin plating and then heating them to get the copper migrate to the surface, giving it the golden look typical of brass. If it can be done it would be great for “gold plating” stuff that we don’t really need or want a real gold plating for like props or things like that. All this while being easier and cheaper. Not to get away with gold, it’s just for different uses. Gold is fragile when in 24k form, but if you want really really bright gold you can’t go wrong with real gold
Yes, it’s exactly working as you said. I Never do this as it’s a little hard to handle. I mean, yes it’s cheaper but a quick gold finish isn’t that expensive either.
Am so impressed 😮, please keep it up from south Africa 🇿🇦
Special shoutout for the editing sequence at 03:55 . 👏🏻
Amazing result! Question @hen3drik - why did you use ultra-fine 4 um graphite powder as opposed to say 44 um, since conductivity of graphite increases with particle size? Is there another factor outside of conductivity?
What is this "bright" copper solution? Any diy alternatives if unavailable in my location?
This is awesome dude!
Totally beautifull!! ThNks to your pokeball video now I'm in addicted to electroplate 3d prints, two of this are successful, i need more practicce.
Now ... i use here in eeuu for do the graphite paint something call it "bulldog" is a liquid plastic adhesive, a little expensive but works amazing, i can brush the piece whit a towel and never peel out... turning more shiny every time and become a lot more conductive 0.1. This help me a lot!!
Thanks for you videos and explanations.
I'm going to trying now the "gold bait"🦾🦾🦾
😮
2:30 what kind of binder should I use? I tried "Golden clear tar gel" and it keeps peeling off of an object. I'm struggling here😥
I used the light blue: www.google.de/search?q=uhu+schnellfest+35g&client=safari&sa=X&sca_esv=564736079&hl=de-de&biw=390&bih=661&tbm=shop&ei=V6kAZfG9GKO7xc8PhKyG0As&oq=uhu+schnellfest+35g&gs_lp=Eg5tb2JpbGUtc2gtc2VycCITdWh1IHNjaG5lbGxmZXN0IDM1ZzIIEAAYFhgeGBgyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyChAhGBYYHhgYGB1I9CFQ3w5YtSBwAXgAkAEAmAGWAaAB8gKqAQMzLjG4AQPIAQD4AQGKAhJtb2JpbGUtc2gtd2l6LXNlcnDCAgoQABiKBRiwAxhDwgIIEAAYgAQYsAPCAgoQABgYGIAEGLADwgIJEAAYCBgeGLADwgIJEAAYHhgYGLADwgIHEAAYigUYQ8ICBxAAGBgYgATCAgYQABgWGB6IBgGQBgg&sclient=mobile-sh-serp
Can you add or remove other pieces from the copper bath process by adjusting the calculated amps accordingly? That way you are using just one bath and power supply and then do an assembly line process
Yes
Do you think it would work to add the graphite powder to the printer resin instead of varnishing it with it?
Wouldn’t work out. People tested this.
Do you share the "rotary jig" printing files? I checked your printables profile, but could find it. I would appreciate it! I enjoy your amazing videos since I encoutered them!
drive.google.com/file/d/15NfkE-hSU_soRJr-C3I7oPBkl4shtxow/view?usp=sharing xeno_arch did it here
Thank you so much! I printed it already and try some tests with the ring. I appreciate your videos so much! I still have some trouble with the power supply. Sometimes it switches from CC to CV and I'm confused. But I hope I will figure this out.
BRILLIANT!!!💯🔥🔥🔥
thank you for the detailed and instructive video! Would it be possible for you to share more details about putting together a rotating jig to rotate the prints in the bath? I can’t find instructions on putting it together anywhere- thank you!
Look here: drive.google.com/file/d/15NfkE-hSU_soRJr-C3I7oPBkl4shtxow/view?usp=sharing
You know the weight of the 3D print before and after electroplating, you know the surfce then you can calculate the average thickness
Moin moin.
Klasse Videos.😊
Inspiriert von deinen Videos habe ich mir von Tifoo ein Starterset für die Galvanisierung und das Kupferleitspray, Palladium etc. gekauft. Warum erhalte ich nach vier Stunden Galvanisieren ein Objekt, was voller Pickel ist und wo die Kupferschicht bröckelt? Liegt das am Laborgerät, der Trockenzeit vom Kupferleitspray oder an den Einstellungen? Oder liegt es am Draht, den ich zum Eintauchen verwende?
Geräteeinstellungen habe ich von der Tifoo Tabelle entnommen.
Vielen Dank.😊
Grüße aus dem Münsterland.
Du hast vermutlich eine zu starke Feldstärke. 3Ddruck Oberfläche ausrechnen, Quadratdezimeter = Strom. Auf diesen Wert einstellen (über den Strom, nicht Spannung). Druck 10-15 cm von der Anode halten.
Hello, I love your work. Very delicate with those figurines. I have a carbon fiber spinner, which has a white on the outside. I would love to plate it with a chrome like finish. Its 15 in in diameter and 17 in long. Which steps should I take? Do you think the plating is durable enough to stand the elements?
Great video, thanks!
Please, I'd like to know which polishing machine with the rotating module you use with 0.4mm powder.
Thanks
Please show us what adhesive you are using 🙏
Hey there, I am writting this comment because I have been trying this experiment but only the copper "electroplates" (graphite layers does not change at all ) getting dull, is there a reason?
Edit: After checking the 3dprint with a multimeter there is much higher Resistance than before, is that because of the adhesive I am using?
Can you do a video with all the material for beginners? Please
How bad would it be if I used a tumbler again for polishing after the copper phase before nickel plating? Would that work or do I have to go with 1000 grit sandpaper?
Excellent information! Quick question do you know of a Copper conductive paint that’s available to buy & I can use in my Airbrush? I’ve got a nickel plating setup already. Just looking for best product for the Copper or Graphic conductive coat??
Thanks!
Lee
Hello, exactly which Binder product have you used? The graphite powder and acetone are clear, but there are many Binders and small differences make it impossible to use them with an airbrush.
wow, an alchemist!!
Use paraloid b72 for binder
Look it up.
Dieses Video finde ich absolut geil! Bitte mache eine zweite Version mit einer deutschen Tonspur. Sei bitte so lieb. 👍
Mega :D, Endergebnis hübscher als würde man es rendern xD
Alright finally got everything ordered. Going to try this out at the end of the month. I got a few questions though. You say measure for 1k to 2k ohms but your meter is showing 17k ohm in the video? Also why did the first flying lady not workout? Did you not test? Can I use a buffing wheel with no polishing compound on the graphite to polish it or is microfiber rag enough? Does the UHU two part work better then the UHU hart? I ordered the UHU hart.
Hi, ignore the ohm meter. Try to apply several thin coats of graphite until you hit the spot around 1k. Polish between the layers. A rag is enough. You can use Uhu hart. Make sure it dissolves completely. Good luck!
@@hen3drik Thanks! Looking forward to trying it out.
This is amazing! I notice you always start with copper, if I want to make something silver or nickel, do I have to start w copper plating or can I just go to a nickel? Also, is the nickel plating toxic st all once it’s on the object?
Copper is soft, deposits fast and cheap. Easy polish, too. That’s all.
how does that diy graphite base compares to the copper paint you used to use?
My experience with graphite was never good, the metal would separate from the print by the graphite layer
Layer adhesion has never been an issue for me when the whole part is plated. This is for copper and graphite. I think it’s the thickness of the conductive paint not being too big.
@@hen3drik what differences do you see in use from the copper to the graphite paint?
This could work magic in scale modeling applications but how safe is to do it? how easily you can find all the products needed? I have 0 experience when it comes to chemical and reactions so I'm scared of trying this :))
Thank you Man!!! U're awesome
holy shit this is amazing
Do you have links to the particular binder and graphite powders you used? Having mixed results with the brands in using and would really like better stuff.
You could use this binder:
amzn.to/44sVm1P
this also works but needs time to dissolve:
amzn.to/3KZpyui
you could get the graphite here: www.graphite-shop.com/de/mikro-graphit-14my-994my-995.html
You have two binder examples from Amazon. One is a cement and the other a two part epoxy. I don't see you mixing a two component before the acetone so I'm guessing it's the cement in your video?
It’s the epoxy binder only
You can also just use magnetic spray paint
I thirst for the electro plating jungle juice.
Your Videos are fantastic. Have you tried a magnetic stirrer to keep the electrolyte moving around the object? I have to plate a large flat object and I can use a long and narrow tank to save on electrolyte but it would not have the space to rotate...
You have really detailed videos. Just a doubt, how much is the pH of your bright acidic copper electrolyte?
It’s around pH 1
very good video. I am also interested in electroplating.. I Wish I could make a video like yours, it would be so much fun... 👍👍
Great video.........................SUBSCRIBED
Hi! Do you have the rotator holder stl, maybe? :)
Hey! Great video! Some model paint brands (Vallejo I think) also have conductive paint. Do you think these would work as a conductive layer for electroplating prints?
I think it will work if it’s really conductive(!). Remember: delicate thin layers have to be plated as „quickly“ as possible.
Hi, can you please share the link for graphite or copper powder, glue and the acetone you are using. I would Really appreciate.
Sehr geil 😎🤩
AS its a nightmare to find the graphite can you give us a link to buy powder. As for post print prep can you tumble the part in walnut shell prior to applying graphite coating?
Can you recommend any other polishing material for people who are incredibly allergic to walnuts?
Polish by hand
Moin Hendrik, in dem Video schlug der erste Beschichtungsversuch mit dem Kupferelektrolyt fehl und du meintest das der Grafitleitlack nicht genug leitfähig war. Beim zweiten Versuch hat es dann funktioniert. Mich würde interessieren was du beim zweiten Versuch anders gemacht hast, so das es geklappt hat bzw. welchen Fehler hattest du beim ersten Versuch gemacht das es nicht funktioniert hat ? Schließlich hattest du ja auch im ersten Versuch die Figur sichtlich dick genug Lackiert gehabt und sie wurde auch vor dem Galvanisieren poliert um die Leitfähigkeit zu erhöhen. Und trotzdem hat es nicht funktioniert. Warum ??? Mich würde brennend interessieren woran es gelegen hat , damit ich solche Fehler im vorraus bei meinen eigenen Projekten nicht machen muss. Vielen Dank und mach weiter so 👍👍👍 LG
Der graphitlack war ungleichmäßig aufgetragen. Ich hatte an einer guten Stelle gemessen und dann auf das gesamte Teil geschlossen. More layers(!) did the job.
@@hen3drik Danke für die Antwort ! Gut zu wissen. Werde drei Lagen Grafitlack sicherheitshalber lackieren. Vermutlich muss man nicht zwischen jeder Schicht das Objekt polieren? LG
@Frankenstein1985 mach 5 Schichten und polier zwischen allen.
I’m wondering why you electroplated the items in the different metals? You didn’t explain why. Especially why you would cover the gold with silver?
My silver electrolyte flakes off on copper + nickel. That’s why I apply a thin gold layer. Not all metals are compatible to each other. I‘ll think about explaining this in future videos.
4:11 Hier sagst Du 1-2k und das Multimeter zeigt 17k und dennoch hat das vergolden geklappt? Oder wurde noch mal nach "conductiviert"? Manchmal verstehe ich diese Kanal nicht. Sagt A meint B und das Ergebnis ist C ...
Was ist sage ist in der Regel das, was ich meine. Auf die Bilder nicht verlassen. Ich nehme nicht immer die richtigen Stellen auf.
You are a great master thank you
Wait, to silver plate something, you have to put a layer of gold on first?
Where can we find the 3d printed spinning machine? Ty, nice video
Have you tried electropolishing the prints via phosphoric acid and higher amps with reversed voltage?
Not yet. I usually get good results by polishing manually but will!
Can I use electrolytic copper powder size 1um instead of graphite? and solvent-based acrylic resin instead of glue?
Could work out
Hi we have a part of 3d print but we can not cupper electroplate it could you please help me.
Great video. I was looking into the binder. It looks like the Epoxy Part 1 is the epoxy only, not the harter (hardener). In that case the Binder under the UHU SDS that Hen3drik used is bisphenol-a-(epichlorhydrin) epoxy resin or BPA. Of course this is the same BPA that has health effects for brain, prostate gland of fetuses to children, so exercise caution and PPE. Or find an alternative epoxy resin as your binder.
I really appreciate your information. Can UHU be used as a binder to mix with other products as shown in the video?
It probably can since it's basically only the BPA portion. I ended up using PVA white glue as my binder with graphite powder instead of BPA for the safe side. It's the same formula as wire glue. It may need more binder than BPA.
@@MuseumGoon How did it turn out?
It works with the wire glue or PVA and conductive graphite@@teresar6348
@@teresar6348 I switched to a different formula that uses graphite, isopropanol, butanol, methoxy propanol, and a thermoplastic resin,
To avoid painting could you not mix the conductive graphite into the resin?
No
Can you electroplate micro lattices? Might be challenging, but very interested in seeing it work!
I tried the exact graphite recipe from the same company (4 micron graphite, uhu binder and some pure acetone). The results were not great, it took 6 coats and a light polish with microfibre cloth in between just to get 1.7Kohms.
It basically didn't adhere properly to the print so being slightly too rough with the microfibre took it off.
A big thank you to one of the commenters here (@Robert-cl8oy) on using 2g Gorilla Super Glue in place of the 1g UHU. It worked perfectly!
1st coat= 3Mohm, 2nd coat =1.3Kohm, 3rd coat= 700ohm. Each layer dried in under a minute and binded really well to the part. Worked well with a 0.4 airbrush.
Yes, tried this recipe, too. It’s works very good.
3:02 And this graphite paint is good for how long?
9:29 Industrial stuff!
Don’t know, doesn’t last long for me. Keep it sealed. Shake well before use.
Hi, ich hab mir das jetzt n paar mal angeschaut. Ich verstehe jetzt nicht, wie ich an chrom komme? Sehe jetzt nur Kupfer oder Gold. Welcher Faktor macht es aus, was das Endergebnis ist?
Muss man eine andere Lösung / Säure nehmen oder liegt es an den Platten.
Ich möchte wirklich nur Chrom haben.
Lg
Kupfer für die dicke grundschicht. Dann Nickel/Palladium als dünne sperrschicht damit das nicht mit dem Gold diffundiert. Wenn du nur Chrom willst Go Kupfer->chrom/Palladium oder cu->ni/pd->au->ag
@@hen3drik also liegt es an den Platten die ich als Anode nehme?
Great, thanks 👍
Not bad. Is hard to get those results with graphite but is possible.
Sieht richtig gut aus, machst du sowas auch mit FDM drucken oder nur Resin ?
FDM, too! 😃
@@hen3drik nice Buddy thanks for the quick reply. You get a subscription straight away👍
Wow! Beautiful.. I've had no luck electroplating with graphite, anyone know what "binder" would mean in the states? Glue, epoxy?
I don't know what kind of binder would work like what he has, but I have been having great luck with a mixture of just Speedball India Ink and graphite powder. Start with a 50/50 mix then adjust as needed. I did 5 tbsp of ink and 6 tbsp of graphite, worked pretty good, made it through an airbrush no problem, just need to clean the airbrush really good immediately after using. Water works fine for that too which is pretty awesome. Just follow the same steps in the vid, spray, polish, spray, polish etc... for a really good base layer. You are looking for continuity of less than 4k, but I can easily get less than 1k. Just make sure whatever you are spraying on is nice and clean, and any under layers are fully cured. Any off gassing will cause the graphite to crack, which looks super cool if that is the effect you are going for
Kleine Frage: Warum macht man vor dem Gold noch Nickel drauf? Kann man das auch weglassen?
Diffusionssperre um Vermischung zu verhindern.
What if you take transparent resin and add graphite powder to it as a filler? Will such models be electrically conductive enough for electroplating?
According to other researchers: no
Yes. I use a "gloss glazing liquid" which is a slow drying clear acrylic. Then I add 2:1 graphite by volume to it. Typically only a table spoon of liquid and 2 tablespoons of graphite is enough for most of my prints. Then I let it dry well and polish it. After polishing it is usually around 200 ohms / cm which I think is better than he's getting at 2k ohms? Polishing properly seems to be key. You can also manually touch up areas that don't perfectly coat.
I thought he meant resin for resin 3D printers.
@@hen3drik Oh ok. You're right. I'm an idiot. He probably wanted 3D resin.
Struggling with the making my part conductive for eletroplating? And can you use conductive filament?
Conductive filament is very hard to plate: don’t do it. Try copper conductive paint as it’s the easiest to plate on.
@@hen3drik I tried a silver copper conductive paint and didn't make it conductive is this a layer issue perhaps?
Hi, is there a suitable alternative for walnut granules? My wife is allergic to nuts and would not like to risk it. Thank you!!
I don’t know. Polishing by hand works very good too.
@@hen3drik thank you for your response! I am just that lazy 😂