Faster and easier to start with a few rotations in your hand with 400 grit to remove any gouges, hard scuffs, and deeper scratches from the receiver. Wrap the shaft of the BCG in your hand, the wrap a piece of sandpaper over it, grasp it; then slowly and methodically rotate. Check the finish in between every 3-4 rotations. Then repeat with 1000 grit, then 1500 grit and DONE. Spray down with a little CLP (brand of your choice), wipe down any excess metal micro dust, and call it a day. You'll have yourself an ultra smooth and bright/shiny bolt that will slide back and forth like the rails it rides on were made of glass. You can bust out the dremel, but its so easy to go "too far" with that thing. ON a PRECISION RIFLE, its best left in the drawer. Or best left to actual professionals. As an added bonus, you can get some polishing compound (NOT "rubbing" compound), and give it a few wipe downs with your favorite sox with too many holes. It really finishes off the glassy smooth finish. For any of you morons that thinks this changes the dimensions, it doesn't. Unless you get crazy with it. Just follow the instructions, shouldn't take longer than 15 mins, 30 if you are meticulous. If you spend hours on this, getting it to a mirror finish; I would then be slightly concerned about dimensions, but I still doubt it would effect performance or function. When polishing the lugs, very very briefly touch it with the 400 grit to remove the gunk, and high spots of the finish. Remember, you're just polishing the lugs, not achieving a mirror finish. I would be concerned I effected potential accuracy if the bolt lugs glissened like a mirror and I could see my face in it. It's just not necessary for achieving a super smooth action. I have tested a friend's of mine's Savage 110 Tactical BA 24 inch .308, polished his whole damn BCG to a mirror finish. I worked the action when he showed me, and honestly it didn't feel that much different. Maybe, 15%(1/6th) smoother at best. He did claim a drop in accuracy but he said he couldn't be 100% certain because it varied. He said he was sure he lost .25 MOA due to over polishing. Who knows. We're not gunsmiths. Just Spent time in the Navy as Small Arms Armorers(Gunner's Mate) in the Armory. Use mainly the 1000, and the 1500 grit for the lugs, to make sure to avoid any chance of altering any surface dimensions since the lug interface has a direct impact on accuracy. The shaft of the bolt/action does not. Some, argue it does indirectly. I disagree. O have yet to see evidence or research demonstrating a bolt/action shaft with uneven dimensions by the 1/10th of a mm would have a direct impact on accuracy. The only way I could see it happening is if the bolt stuck and you had to use so much force you jolted the whole gun and shifted your shooting position and directly effected your point of aim. But, a moderately experienced shooter could quickly re-adjust and compensate for this. So, I guess its relative. The process on the video above, does work somewhat but achieves a substandard level of "smoothness" (within acceptable tolerances), and takes much longer I think. Its also messier. And, with the above method in the video, IMHO you are left with a substandard looking finish and a surface finish that isn't as smooth. At the end of the day, take it for what it's worth. This is just my experience. As a side note, in the Navy; we NEVER EVER USED BS commercial "gun oils." There's no such thing, gun oils are repackaged automotive and automotive racing oils. I don't care what snake oil gun oil company you want to sware by. Its all a scam. Here's the key: On, rotating surfaces; use heavy weight SAE synthetic motor oil. Preferably 50 weight, some armorers even used 70 weight gear oil. Others mixed in a little synthetic transmission oil due to the detergents. On SLIDING SURFACES, use GREASE. I prefer white lithium grease. Some other dudes mixed it with red gear grease and got a pink goop they swore by. NOTHING is slicker than white Lithium grease. Remember, grease doesn't drain out, dry out, or run out down your stock sitting in your gun safe when you need to shoot it. IT STAYS IN PLACE. in case your curious, FIREclean, is just cooking oil, mostly safflower oil for the oleic acid. There's a video of someone frying an egg with fireclean and eating it. I'll never forgive Larry Vickers for swearing this was the BEST GUN LUBE EVER, one of his promo videos. I realized, Delta Operator or not, he was a SELLOUT and would recommend actual garbage for the right price. Disgusing. As a side not, I thank him for his great service to our county. FrogLUBE is Coconut oil, in both sold and liquid forms (don't forget the stupid green dye) REM oil is just USP Mineral oil, with a few drops of PTFE (By the way, when you put PTFE (teflon) in the barrel, and shoot it, it turns the teflon into a gas that is carcinogenic. Once or twice, probably harmless. But over years ....? Probably not. CLP uses Teflon. Baristol does not) If you INSIST on using TEFLON (PTFE) in your gun, KEEP IT OUT OF YOUR BARREL. Know what else uses TEFLON? WD-40. So, keep that out of your barrel too. Hoppes#9 has a lot of various mineral spirits in it plus a lot of other toxic chemicals you don't want in your barrel breathing after its fired. Sure, it WILL CLEAN YOUR BARREL. But, I guess you have to ask yourself if breathing carcinogins after every shot is worth it. If you are a casual shooter, I'm sure your fine. But, if you shoot thousands a month, like a competition shooter or Tier 1 operator, and you clean your guns every time with Hoppes#9; I would personally be very concerned. Brain cancer in the military with Special Operation shooters, (I'm not talking about "burn pits"), specifically assaulters is on the rise. There is no direct known cause. Some theorize, lead gas, some theorize snipers that use depleted uranium, others theorize is the caustic cleaners used on these weapons in SOME UNITS. We didn't use that sh1t, although we did have all that in stock. We just had a smart div chief that told us not to use it and explained why. it wasn't until I got out and did my own research did I finally realize how accurate he was. If you think I'm kidding, look up the PATENTS. The ingredients are ALL THERE, just not the percentages, proportions. No actual formulas are listed on Patents, they are proprietary secrets that are allowed to be kept from the public. WE made our own CLP, 1 part Ethanol (or Isopropyl), 1 Part Motor oil, 1 Part Safflower oil. WORKS GREAT, a few bucks will make gallons. Put it in a spray bottle and shake it up before you use it. No one in the military uses ANY OF THAT GARBAGE. By the way, WE NEVER WIRE BRISTLE ANY OF OUR BARRELS. Just get a commcial snake rope or whatever they call them now, spray some BRAKE CLEAN down the barrel, pull that rope through TWICE, then pour your gun oil on the rope and pull it through once more and YOU ARE DONE. This is how we treated and dealt with many many guns on our ship, and they ran perfectly. I digress, sigh. Ugh, sorry for the rant a the end. It angers me when I think of the snake oil gun industry raping fellow brothers and sisters that ALREADY don't have the money to spend. Especiially nowadays. Take care and be safe.
Well the polish in the video I used and the bolt was tight pitted and very hard to work the action. After I polished oiled it's super smooth Hopes that helps
Excuse me sir I'm looking to polish up the bolt on my remington 770 could you please say what I'd need to have to get the job complete I'm talkin about everything thank you sir
No after I finished polishing the bolt I cleaned the housing on the rifle as well due to build up from the bolt being dirty as well a thick layer of oil on the bolt and worked the action for 1 to 2 mins then wiped down with a rag super smooth
The bolt is off a .22, My buddies dad's old Remington 30/06 he wanted to bring it outta retirement last fall deer hunt with. Man it was pretty bad but smooth it up nicely he took nice buck with it.
Model 700 but one in video was off. 22 long rifle. Here's one that may work for your project hope this helps . www.ebay.com/itm/186655317515?_nkw=rifle+bolt&itmmeta=01J74JXR40Y2Q9QM9Q1AH7SBYR&hash=item2b75861e0b:g:n1MAAOSwleZmzO5W&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKkzspJ7tWuYGc%2FuG%2BkVuoda8TUh2xi6Qkv55ABcEaxmZeb1teZA8eB8IWFv4lydcII4CS2N8k38aHNxPaQoZ%2BYyGQ08yi7IzTOCz%2FWmiA75hDsL6DnM3dQpAnRlGdl0mSifseF3nbkMf%2B8NDN8EetdAUvWnRW8qC6m0Z8UmZN%2BNYLRLdNuic8xD2WaRCgnH0LzVOGeCFCAjuoqpAI25%2F0jXOEbuOe3e3wfGiEMB1148qQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4iC95K5ZA
Faster and easier to start with a few rotations in your hand with 400 grit to remove any gouges, hard scuffs, and deeper scratches from the receiver. Wrap the shaft of the BCG in your hand, the wrap a piece of sandpaper over it, grasp it; then slowly and methodically rotate. Check the finish in between every 3-4 rotations. Then repeat with 1000 grit, then 1500 grit and DONE. Spray down with a little CLP (brand of your choice), wipe down any excess metal micro dust, and call it a day. You'll have yourself an ultra smooth and bright/shiny bolt that will slide back and forth like the rails it rides on were made of glass. You can bust out the dremel, but its so easy to go "too far" with that thing. ON a PRECISION RIFLE, its best left in the drawer. Or best left to actual professionals.
As an added bonus, you can get some polishing compound (NOT "rubbing" compound), and give it a few wipe downs with your favorite sox with too many holes. It really finishes off the glassy smooth finish. For any of you morons that thinks this changes the dimensions, it doesn't.
Unless you get crazy with it. Just follow the instructions, shouldn't take longer than 15 mins, 30 if you are meticulous. If you spend hours on this, getting it to a mirror finish; I would then be slightly concerned about dimensions, but I still doubt it would effect performance or function.
When polishing the lugs, very very briefly touch it with the 400 grit to remove the gunk, and high spots of the finish. Remember, you're just polishing the lugs, not achieving a mirror finish. I would be concerned I effected potential accuracy if the bolt lugs glissened like a mirror and I could see my face in it. It's just not necessary for achieving a super smooth action. I have tested a friend's of mine's Savage 110 Tactical BA 24 inch .308, polished his whole damn BCG to a mirror finish. I worked the action when he showed me, and honestly it didn't feel that much different. Maybe, 15%(1/6th) smoother at best. He did claim a drop in accuracy but he said he couldn't be 100% certain because it varied. He said he was sure he lost .25 MOA due to over polishing. Who knows. We're not gunsmiths. Just Spent time in the Navy as Small Arms Armorers(Gunner's Mate) in the Armory.
Use mainly the 1000, and the 1500 grit for the lugs, to make sure to avoid any chance of altering any surface dimensions since the lug interface has a direct impact on accuracy. The shaft of the bolt/action does not. Some, argue it does indirectly. I disagree. O have yet to see evidence or research demonstrating a bolt/action shaft with uneven dimensions by the 1/10th of a mm would have a direct impact on accuracy. The only way I could see it happening is if the bolt stuck and you had to use so much force you jolted the whole gun and shifted your shooting position and directly effected your point of aim. But, a moderately experienced shooter could quickly re-adjust and compensate for this. So, I guess its relative.
The process on the video above, does work somewhat but achieves a substandard level of "smoothness" (within acceptable tolerances), and takes much longer I think. Its also messier. And, with the above method in the video, IMHO you are left with a substandard looking finish and a surface finish that isn't as smooth.
At the end of the day, take it for what it's worth. This is just my experience.
As a side note, in the Navy; we NEVER EVER USED BS commercial "gun oils." There's no such thing, gun oils are repackaged automotive and automotive racing oils. I don't care what snake oil gun oil company you want to sware by. Its all a scam.
Here's the key:
On, rotating surfaces; use heavy weight SAE synthetic motor oil. Preferably 50 weight, some armorers even used 70 weight gear oil. Others mixed in a little synthetic transmission oil due to the detergents.
On SLIDING SURFACES, use GREASE. I prefer white lithium grease. Some other dudes mixed it with red gear grease and got a pink goop they swore by. NOTHING is slicker than white Lithium grease.
Remember, grease doesn't drain out, dry out, or run out down your stock sitting in your gun safe when you need to shoot it. IT STAYS IN PLACE.
in case your curious,
FIREclean, is just cooking oil, mostly safflower oil for the oleic acid. There's a video of someone frying an egg with fireclean and eating it. I'll never forgive Larry Vickers for swearing this was the BEST GUN LUBE EVER, one of his promo videos. I realized, Delta Operator or not, he was a SELLOUT and would recommend actual garbage for the right price. Disgusing. As a side not, I thank him for his great service to our county.
FrogLUBE is Coconut oil, in both sold and liquid forms (don't forget the stupid green dye)
REM oil is just USP Mineral oil, with a few drops of PTFE (By the way, when you put PTFE (teflon) in the barrel, and shoot it, it turns the teflon into a gas that is carcinogenic. Once or twice, probably harmless. But over years ....? Probably not. CLP uses Teflon. Baristol does not) If you INSIST on using TEFLON (PTFE) in your gun, KEEP IT OUT OF YOUR BARREL. Know what else uses TEFLON? WD-40. So, keep that out of your barrel too.
Hoppes#9 has a lot of various mineral spirits in it plus a lot of other toxic chemicals you don't want in your barrel breathing after its fired. Sure, it WILL CLEAN YOUR BARREL. But, I guess you have to ask yourself if breathing carcinogins after every shot is worth it. If you are a casual shooter, I'm sure your fine. But, if you shoot thousands a month, like a competition shooter or Tier 1 operator, and you clean your guns every time with Hoppes#9; I would personally be very concerned. Brain cancer in the military with Special Operation shooters, (I'm not talking about "burn pits"), specifically assaulters is on the rise. There is no direct known cause. Some theorize, lead gas, some theorize snipers that use depleted uranium, others theorize is the caustic cleaners used on these weapons in SOME UNITS. We didn't use that sh1t, although we did have all that in stock. We just had a smart div chief that told us not to use it and explained why. it wasn't until I got out and did my own research did I finally realize how accurate he was.
If you think I'm kidding, look up the PATENTS. The ingredients are ALL THERE, just not the percentages, proportions. No actual formulas are listed on Patents, they are proprietary secrets that are allowed to be kept from the public.
WE made our own CLP, 1 part Ethanol (or Isopropyl), 1 Part Motor oil, 1 Part Safflower oil. WORKS GREAT, a few bucks will make gallons. Put it in a spray bottle and shake it up before you use it.
No one in the military uses ANY OF THAT GARBAGE.
By the way, WE NEVER WIRE BRISTLE ANY OF OUR BARRELS. Just get a commcial snake rope or whatever they call them now, spray some BRAKE CLEAN down the barrel, pull that rope through TWICE, then pour your gun oil on the rope and pull it through once more and YOU ARE DONE.
This is how we treated and dealt with many many guns on our ship, and they ran perfectly.
I digress, sigh.
Ugh, sorry for the rant a the end. It angers me when I think of the snake oil gun industry raping fellow brothers and sisters that ALREADY don't have the money to spend. Especiially nowadays.
Take care and be safe.
Epic!
Thanks for the true inside dope on the cleaning and polishing of metals!
Could have gone more in depth.
Now I know how to clean my boat
I used a Abrasive buffing wheels, 320 grit to smooth The imperfection of the feeding rams on my semi autos
Is there any chance lock up could be altered if any residual polishing material is left on the bolt or in the reciever?
Good polish. My local parts city store carries that stuff. Higher than a cats back though.
Walmart about 6 bucks have you checked there
I got a fin-mosin with a tight bolt near the locking portion could I use metal polish on the areas where it rubs ro get it smooth?
Well the polish in the video I used and the bolt was tight pitted and very hard to work the action. After I polished oiled it's super smooth
Hopes that helps
Excuse me sir I'm looking to polish up the bolt on my remington 770 could you please say what I'd need to have to get the job complete I'm talkin about everything thank you sir
Soon as I get home ill send you list everything you need
(Blue magic metal polish) walmart were car cleaner is
Fine steel wool
Scott Brite Green pads
Thanks Bud
products you used ?
Sorry late reply my brother in law had lung transplant. It's the chrome and aluminum rim cleaner from Walmart
did it have a scraping noise when working the bolt in the rile at first/
No after I finished polishing the bolt I cleaned the housing on the rifle as well due to build up from the bolt being dirty as well a thick layer of oil on the bolt and worked the action for 1 to 2 mins then wiped down with a rag super smooth
@@HillsandGills thank you my Mauser M18 bolt when moved back an forth makes a lot of noise.
After polishing it ??
What's that bolt off of ?
The bolt is off a .22, My buddies dad's old Remington 30/06 he wanted to bring it outta retirement last fall deer hunt with. Man it was pretty bad but smooth it up nicely he took nice buck with it.
@@HillsandGills what model 30-06 ? I want to get a used bolt handle to weld on a mauser & that one looks better than anything available new
Model 700 but one in video was off. 22 long rifle. Here's one that may work for your project hope this helps . www.ebay.com/itm/186655317515?_nkw=rifle+bolt&itmmeta=01J74JXR40Y2Q9QM9Q1AH7SBYR&hash=item2b75861e0b:g:n1MAAOSwleZmzO5W&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKkzspJ7tWuYGc%2FuG%2BkVuoda8TUh2xi6Qkv55ABcEaxmZeb1teZA8eB8IWFv4lydcII4CS2N8k38aHNxPaQoZ%2BYyGQ08yi7IzTOCz%2FWmiA75hDsL6DnM3dQpAnRlGdl0mSifseF3nbkMf%2B8NDN8EetdAUvWnRW8qC6m0Z8UmZN%2BNYLRLdNuic8xD2WaRCgnH0LzVOGeCFCAjuoqpAI25%2F0jXOEbuOe3e3wfGiEMB1148qQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4iC95K5ZA
Great video brother 👍👍
Thanks much appreciate it
Thanks a million! My mosin's bolt never looked so perdy!
That's Awesome very welcome 👍🏻👍🏻
In the three years since you made this video, Blue Magic Polishing cream is now $11.12 at Walmart not $5.00.
Why does he keep sayin "boat"? its a BOLT!