Good info. For decades I have had good luck using 0000 steel wool and Hoppes #9 bore solvent for surface freckles. Soak a piece of steel wool, and gently buff the piece, once over. Let it sit for at least an hour. Then use the Hoppes-wet 0000 to gently buff off the freckles. Gently! If it looks like you’re affecting the bluing, back off. Leave the gun moist until the next day, repeat, wipe off with paper towel, then wet it again with 0000 and Hoppes. In 2-4 days you should be able to lift the rust off and maintain the bluing/patina.
Very good! I think us old timers know all this, but we’re constantly adding new members to our firearm owners fraternity. Everyone should know this stuff. Thanks for sharing.🤠🤠
While watching the video I grabbed the receiver of my 1921 Ithaca Flues and lubricated it with oil, took some 4-0 steel wool and went to work. I was able to remove the rust while preserving the flame hardening pattern. Thank you for the great content.
I recently picked up a nice-looking Colt Diamondback 22LR and brought it home for disassembly, inspection and cleaning. The exterior was beautiful but I when I removed the side plate, I was stunned. Inside, the interior surfaces of the frame had formed a superficial surface rust (but thankfully no pitting) even though all the small parts looked fine. With all the nooks and crannies, an old penny, a copper Brillo pad or steel wool was out of the question. My plan of attack is to soak it overnight with Kroil and then go at it with a copper-bristled toothbrush. After that I'll spray the interior with Hornady's "One shot" which goes on wet and then dries, leaving a thin, protective film to protect the metal from any further corrosion.
I found an old muzzle loader percussion pistol with rust a plenty. It had no bluing at all. I have been thinking of bluing the barrel, maybe even the metal side plates.
Cleaned many guns with surface rust with Frontier 45 steel wool. Rub it off dry, doesn't hurt the bluing. Friend of mine had a colt .22, .22 mag combo revolver. Had some surface rust on it. Told me he was going to have to get it reblued. Took the wool and had it clean in a few minutes.
I found when my firearms get a tiny spot of surface rust on blued steel, no matter what the removal process I use to remove it was, its like a cancer and always comes back with a vengeance and attitude. Cold blue helps, but really the only way to fix and stop the cancer is a re hot blue of entire part after strip and polish.
The penny works very good I have tried that, you can also use a bronze wool with Rem oil very lightly, personally I would never use any steel wool regardless of fineness.
Thanks! I've got a few firearms that I inherited from my grandfather that have....patina, I call it rust. I immediately oiled and reoiled to try to keep them from getting worse. Several people gave me suggestions, that you pointed out to not do. I was very suspicious about using 000 steel wool as I was told because I couldn't see how that would preserve the blueing that is left. My 1954 marlin 39A for example has a very nice shiny blueing when it is oiled but you can just see the tiny specs of rust.
This was a great video .. I learned a lot ….I like my weapons but sometimes the older ones or the ones I push brush out of the way with get some light surface rust…I appreciate you knowledge
Thanks bro. I'm looking at kinda sorta restoring the Winchester Model 77 my dad just handed down to me. The wood looks ok to good, but not great. the barrel has some surface rust as it gets a bit humid in the room they kept it in. So I'm going to have to break into my stash of antique pennies in my safe & try that trick first. Thanks for the video!
When you say “penetrating fluid” is there a particular product you recommend over others or a particular class of them? Is it just gun oil or something different?
A lot of those copper brillo pads say copper coated. Would those be acceptable or does it need to be 100% copper? Does it matter what type of penetrating oil/fluid you use? What one are you using?
The copper coating is super thin, and it will rapidly wear out and start scratching. I personally use any oil as I believe the rubbing does 99% of the work.
I assume that the firearms parts laid out in the background of your work area are examples of your refinishing work. If so, I have to say that you are doing really great work.
My grandpa recently passed away. He owned a carwash for a VERY long time. He left me a ton of coins to include about 9000 wheat pennies. I’ve sorted most of the wheats and left the valuable ones separate. Been wondering what to do with the rest. Now I know!
Im guilty of this, but i wasn't dealing with surfaces rust, i have seized parts and pitting so the bluing is my least concern. It's now a project gun that i will be learning how to blue.
Will there still be stains and spots on the bluing after you finish with the 0000 steel wool? Or will they disappear completely? I am hesitant to try it on a very nice Beretta s687 over under
It depends on how deep the rust went down. If rust had time to fester in a spot it may have gotten deep enough to remove the OG bluing and yes you could get a white spot after using 0000. If in doubt seek a pro in your area.
@@pachuagfirearmsrestorationsawesome tips! Have you ever used steel wool with plain motor oil as the lubricant? I know some people use motor oil....does the ATF with kerosene work better? I'm guessing you use ATF kerosene for a reason, it must have some benefits.
@@stephenwhite5444 plain, non-detergent motor oil will probably do a good job. I use ATF/K1 because its thinner and has no ingredients that will attack good bluing. Note that some fluids like PB Blast have rust removing agents in them that will strip brown rust AND bluing!!
I have a savage axis that's been sitting in my cabinet for a while now and has never been shot. I pulled it out and the barrel has a brown tint to it. Is that surface rust or blue oxidation and can frontier 45 take care of that?
What would your suggestion be for quite a bit heavier rust, but on something more “important” like say, pre 64? I would rather leave it original, but the rust and grunge needs to go. (Ps, also the wood is in great shape but really grungy)
I did have a pre 64 Marlin lever come thru several months ago. While it wasn't rusted on one side of the barrel someone had used 80 grit sandpaper to remove rust and in the process took the barrel down to the white. I sanded just the hosed up areas, in the same direction as the factory finish, using finer and finer grits until the sanded sheen matched and used several coats of cold blue until it match.
Am i ahead to get it clean like this and then cold blue repeatedly until it matches up with areas unaffected or use the blue/rust remover that comes with the cold blue. Id like to save the factory blueing though idk how well the cold blue will match it.
Whatever you do, DO NOT use the blue / rust remover! It will strip everything off, and quick to. If you want to try the cold blue, try it in a spot that won't be noticed.
@@pachuagfirearmsrestorations thank you for the reply. That was always my concern with the remover. If it's gonna go all the way bare and you don't do the whole surface. I can't see it ever matching what wasn't worked on. Now I could see using it if you were going to do the whole thing. But at that point you may as well take it to have it hot blued or rebarrel.
It would, but the value of the firearm would never be the same. Main goal of this video is to show everyone that you can remove that minor rust and keep the firearm in as close to original as possible. Best thing to do is always clean and lightly oil them after use.
Unfortunately no. If the rust caused severe pitting and the bluing is gone the only way to get it back to original is to take it down to white steel and re-blue it.
@@bustersmith5569 I've rolled up 4 ought steel wool like yarn and fit it under the rib. Once you have it through a gentle shoe shine motion with plenty of oil will work on light rust.
Those copper brillo pads are copper coated stainless. I've got some copper mesh that works great and won't hurt the blue. Pre 1984 copper pennies are copper. 1984 to present are copper plated zink.
Kroil here but a 50/50 mix of automotive automatic transmission fluid and acetone works very well to soak the parts in as well. He doesn't cover that here using a piece of PVC pipe with a cap glued on one end and a threaded coupling and threaded removable plug on the other. Most these UA-cam guys go about it more rough than you probably should. He's already scratching away with abrasives when what he should have done was mixed up that 50/50 mix and used the PVC pipe to let them soak for a few days. Often times that lifts it off with no "scrubbing" at all. Both the Kroil and the home brew 50/50 mix get under the rust and float it off the surface and away.
The worst thing you could do is use navel jelly rust remover. Bluing is a type of rust. Put chemical rust remover on the gun and the bluing will disappear. Did it one time. .
Now why aren’t you advocating at all not to add oil but to boil it converting that rust into black iron oxide? And why did you cold blue? Are you not capable of rust bluing? It’s acid, boil card with 0000 steel wool and repeat until it’s as dark as you want. I’ve used permablue and don’t like it even for small parts. Fine to tarnish brass if you don’t want to wait for time to do it.
Good info.
For decades I have had good luck using 0000 steel wool and Hoppes #9 bore solvent for surface freckles. Soak a piece of steel wool, and gently buff the piece, once over. Let it sit for at least an hour. Then use the Hoppes-wet 0000 to gently buff off the freckles. Gently! If it looks like you’re affecting the bluing, back off. Leave the gun moist until the next day, repeat, wipe off with paper towel, then wet it again with 0000 and Hoppes. In 2-4 days you should be able to lift the rust off and maintain the bluing/patina.
Very good! I think us old timers know all this, but we’re constantly adding new members to our firearm owners fraternity. Everyone should know this stuff. Thanks for sharing.🤠🤠
Bro !
While watching the video I grabbed the receiver of my 1921 Ithaca Flues and lubricated it with oil, took some 4-0 steel wool and went to work. I was able to remove the rust while preserving the flame hardening pattern. Thank you for the great content.
Just getting into refinishing and cleaning older gun stocks and barrel. I appreciate your information and calm delivery. Thanks!
Knock the amplitude of the intro back a notch. Also, SUBSCRIBED
The master has subscribed!
Appreciate the thoroughness and professionalism shown. Thank you
Great tutorial, I use all 3 methods. I also use a piece of 30-06 brass flattened at the mouth, that works like a charm too.
I recently picked up a nice-looking Colt Diamondback 22LR and brought it home for disassembly, inspection and cleaning. The exterior was beautiful but I when I removed the side plate, I was stunned. Inside, the interior surfaces of the frame had formed a superficial surface rust (but thankfully no pitting) even though all the small parts looked fine. With all the nooks and crannies, an old penny, a copper Brillo pad or steel wool was out of the question. My plan of attack is to soak it overnight with Kroil and then go at it with a copper-bristled toothbrush. After that I'll spray the interior with Hornady's "One shot" which goes on wet and then dries, leaving a thin, protective film to protect the metal from any further corrosion.
I found an old muzzle loader percussion pistol with rust a plenty. It had no bluing at all. I have been thinking of bluing the barrel, maybe even the metal side plates.
This felt like Dad teaching me something on a Friday night in the middle of winter while mom is prepping the dinner and we’re just killing time.
Cleaned many guns with surface rust with Frontier 45 steel wool. Rub it off dry, doesn't hurt the bluing. Friend of mine had a colt .22, .22 mag combo revolver. Had some surface rust on it. Told me he was going to have to get it reblued. Took the wool and had it clean in a few minutes.
I found when my firearms get a tiny spot of surface rust on blued steel, no matter what the removal process I use to remove it was, its like a cancer and always comes back with a vengeance and attitude. Cold blue helps, but really the only way to fix and stop the cancer is a re hot blue of entire part after strip and polish.
Just asking , how are you storing your guns?
Love the penny tip. Of course, also being a coin guy, make sure the pennies aren't keepers.
He used a 1955 double struck. They work the best.
The penny works very good I have tried that, you can also use a bronze wool with Rem oil very lightly, personally I would never use any steel wool regardless of fineness.
0000 steel wool works great on light rust. Brass or copper scraper on heavier rust.
12 ga Romex copper wire also works well. Cut the tip at an angle and you get a nice sharp edge that can be used to scratch off red rust.
Thanks! I've got a few firearms that I inherited from my grandfather that have....patina, I call it rust. I immediately oiled and reoiled to try to keep them from getting worse. Several people gave me suggestions, that you pointed out to not do. I was very suspicious about using 000 steel wool as I was told because I couldn't see how that would preserve the blueing that is left. My 1954 marlin 39A for example has a very nice shiny blueing when it is oiled but you can just see the tiny specs of rust.
Amen and Hallelujah. Witness......
Thanks Submariner! MK 1 Mod 2 Steel wool for the win.
@@pachuagfirearmsrestorations YESSSSSSS
This was a great video .. I learned a lot ….I like my weapons but sometimes the older ones or the ones I push brush out of the way with get some light surface rust…I appreciate you knowledge
Thanks bro. I'm looking at kinda sorta restoring the Winchester Model 77 my dad just handed down to me. The wood looks ok to good, but not great. the barrel has some surface rust as it gets a bit humid in the room they kept it in. So I'm going to have to break into my stash of antique pennies in my safe & try that trick first. Thanks for the video!
I found copper wool on Amazon, able to conform to the barrel instead of a copper penny. Nice video
Thanks for these techniques. I have an old shotgun this will help to look good again.
When you say “penetrating fluid” is there a particular product you recommend over others or a particular class of them? Is it just gun oil or something different?
Wish we had videos like this decades ago.
Found some copper scrubbies at the dollar store. Worked great with a little oil!
Now i have to rethink things. Ive been using the light 3-M pads. Real good programs. 🏆
A lot of those copper brillo pads say copper coated. Would those be acceptable or does it need to be 100% copper? Does it matter what type of penetrating oil/fluid you use? What one are you using?
The copper coating is super thin, and it will rapidly wear out and start scratching.
I personally use any oil as I believe the rubbing does 99% of the work.
i just use 0000 steel wool with oil. never hurts even the weakest of blues
Just me.. I warm the steel & let the oil soak in for a while. Real copper pennies are getting harder to find but copper crush washers aren’t
I assume that the firearms parts laid out in the background of your work area are examples of your refinishing work. If so, I have to say that you are doing really great work.
carding wheel works great, wont damage bluing. copper penny also works well.
A carpenter's pencil with number two wide lead works very well doesn't scratch anything and eats that rush right off.
My grandpa recently passed away. He owned a carwash for a VERY long time. He left me a ton of coins to include about 9000 wheat pennies.
I’ve sorted most of the wheats and left the valuable ones separate. Been wondering what to do with the rest. Now I know!
Well done Mike.
Great video, proud to be an American!
Green scotchbrite will scratch chrome. White scotchbrite most gentle. Maroon is still pretty abrasive.
Im guilty of this, but i wasn't dealing with surfaces rust, i have seized parts and pitting so the bluing is my least concern. It's now a project gun that i will be learning how to blue.
It'd be funny if you're using a 1943 copper penny
Boil and card it. Boiling in water converts the Iron III oxide from red rust, back to Iron II Black oxide. Original blue is left intact.
I plan on doing an episode showing my boiling and carding set up soon. Props to Mark and his Anvil channel for showing this.
@@pachuagfirearmsrestorations Awesome, I'd love to see your setup!
Will there still be stains and spots on the bluing after you finish with the 0000 steel wool? Or will they disappear completely? I am hesitant to try it on a very nice Beretta s687 over under
It depends on how deep the rust went down. If rust had time to fester in a spot it may have gotten deep enough to remove the OG bluing and yes you could get a white spot after using 0000. If in doubt seek a pro in your area.
Thanks for the reply 👍👍
Could you use anything made out of copper?
this is the best. I'm doing a marlin 336 1968
I didn't know any of this and lucked in to using fine steel wool and a brass brush, pure luck that I didn't ruin my finish.
Hi there. Thanks for sharing this. Saved me from messing up nice air rifle I have.
Do you have any videos on cold blueing and touch up blueing repair.
Great advice!
Oof that sandpaper hurt my soul 😅 I've had to re-blue many a rifle that someone ruined that way.
Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for another video. What do you think about boiling or steaming the part first. I’m looking for a project to try it on.
I do boil them, buff on a carding wheel and oil dip. Works great on firearms with alot of loose surface rust.
Would this method also work with parkerizing or phosphate finishes?
What was the penetrating oil used? Nice finish!
50/50 automatic transmission fluid and K1 kerosene
@@pachuagfirearmsrestorationsawesome tips! Have you ever used steel wool with plain motor oil as the lubricant? I know some people use motor oil....does the ATF with kerosene work better? I'm guessing you use ATF kerosene for a reason, it must have some benefits.
@@stephenwhite5444 plain, non-detergent motor oil will probably do a good job. I use ATF/K1 because its thinner and has no ingredients that will attack good bluing. Note that some fluids like PB Blast have rust removing agents in them that will strip brown rust AND bluing!!
Excellent info
Great info, learned a lot 15:10
Use a large caliber blanket rifle cartridge case instead of the penny which is way too hard to hold.
You want to strip your blue if your applying new for a new look tho?
Yea this is great if you just have minor surface rust, but if you have deep pitting and pockets, this won’t do much.
Thanks, very well done.
This should be compulsory viewing in schools 👍
You can also use a wad of Baking Foil 👍
I have a savage axis that's been sitting in my cabinet for a while now and has never been shot. I pulled it out and the barrel has a brown tint to it. Is that surface rust or blue oxidation and can frontier 45 take care of that?
Sounds like surface rust, go at it lightly with Hoppes 9 and 0000 steel wool in the same direction as the machining marks.
What would your suggestion be for quite a bit heavier rust, but on something more “important” like say, pre 64?
I would rather leave it original, but the rust and grunge needs to go.
(Ps, also the wood is in great shape but really grungy)
I did have a pre 64 Marlin lever come thru several months ago. While it wasn't rusted on one side of the barrel someone had used 80 grit sandpaper to remove rust and in the process took the barrel down to the white. I sanded just the hosed up areas, in the same direction as the factory finish, using finer and finer grits until the sanded sheen matched and used several coats of cold blue until it match.
Am i ahead to get it clean like this and then cold blue repeatedly until it matches up with areas unaffected or use the blue/rust remover that comes with the cold blue.
Id like to save the factory blueing though idk how well the cold blue will match it.
Whatever you do, DO NOT use the blue / rust remover! It will strip everything off, and quick to. If you want to try the cold blue, try it in a spot that won't be noticed.
@@pachuagfirearmsrestorations thank you for the reply.
That was always my concern with the remover. If it's gonna go all the way bare and you don't do the whole surface. I can't see it ever matching what wasn't worked on.
Now I could see using it if you were going to do the whole thing. But at that point you may as well take it to have it hot blued or rebarrel.
Do the same techniques apply to a fluted barrel?
Will sanding it down and painting it will it just stop the rust from coming back ?
It would, but the value of the firearm would never be the same. Main goal of this video is to show everyone that you can remove that minor rust and keep the firearm in as close to original as possible. Best thing to do is always clean and lightly oil them after use.
Is there a way to cover up the pitting on the metal?
Unfortunately no. If the rust caused severe pitting and the bluing is gone the only way to get it back to original is to take it down to white steel and re-blue it.
Big 45 pad...far better than steel wool
Very good
What penetrating fluid did you use??????
@@Redlegarty K1 kerosene and automatic transmission fluid mixed 50-50
EXCELLENT. THANX
Can you use ''Nuts Off" Penetrating Spray (anti-corrosion & lubricant) ????????????????
Fine brass wool for me.
nice marlin
What type of “penetrating fluid” was used?
50% automatic trans fluid and 50% K1 kerosene
@@pachuagfirearmsrestorations ok thanks !
What penetrating fluid?
My dad told me to a copper brush if you didn’t want scratches
I wish I'd known this before I f'd up my Lefever Nitro Express.
what about getting around a vent rib, ??
@@bustersmith5569 I've rolled up 4 ought steel wool like yarn and fit it under the rib. Once you have it through a gentle shoe shine motion with plenty of oil will work on light rust.
Where can I purchase the penetrating oil
Those copper brillo pads are copper coated stainless. I've got some copper mesh that works great and won't hurt the blue. Pre 1984 copper pennies are copper. 1984 to present are copper plated zink.
Actually it’s 1982 (and only certain 1982 Lincoln Pennies at that) so it’s probably best just to stick with anything 1981 or older!
is a brass brush ok to use as well?
I would be careful of a brass brush. Bristles are typically stiffer and may damage the bluing. Try it on and inconspicuous spot first.
@pachuagfirearmsrestorations in an other video, they say brass would be ok, bronce, however not.
Nevertheless I will use the method in this video.
I think 1981 was the last year pennies where all copper
Try acf50
Try Gibbs Oil!
Steel wool NO, Copper scrubby NO. Ballistol and fine BRONZE wool!,
what do you think bronze is
What is penetrating fluid brand?
I use 50/50 automatic trans fluid and K1 kerosene
Use 0000 steel wool and motor oil and a light touch and you'll be fine.
at least add oil to the scuff pads
i was just about to lol
Which is your penetrating fluid of choice?
Kroil here but a 50/50 mix of automotive automatic transmission fluid and acetone works very well to soak the parts in as well. He doesn't cover that here using a piece of PVC pipe with a cap glued on one end and a threaded coupling and threaded removable plug on the other. Most these UA-cam guys go about it more rough than you probably should. He's already scratching away with abrasives when what he should have done was mixed up that 50/50 mix and used the PVC pipe to let them soak for a few days. Often times that lifts it off with no "scrubbing" at all. Both the Kroil and the home brew 50/50 mix get under the rust and float it off the surface and away.
@@JohnDoeEagle1 got it. that auto tranny fluid and acetone mix reminds me of the solution Ed's Red.
The worst thing you could do is use navel jelly rust remover. Bluing is a type of rust. Put chemical rust remover on the gun and the bluing will disappear. Did it one time.
.
I can only imagine your heart sinking when you saw the results
Would WD40 work? Or pb blast?
Pb Blast may remove bluing. Test in a spot first. Best thing to use is a pure petroleum product, oil or kerosene.
@@pachuagfirearmsrestorations atf?
Now why aren’t you advocating at all not to add oil but to boil it converting that rust into black iron oxide? And why did you cold blue? Are you not capable of rust bluing? It’s acid, boil card with 0000 steel wool and repeat until it’s as dark as you want. I’ve used permablue and don’t like it even for small parts. Fine to tarnish brass if you don’t want to wait for time to do it.
Separate video on boiling
Can you use Hoppes bore cleaning fluid?
Yes
Yes
can you use a copper fitting?
go with the steel wool first, er on the side of caution..
Thank you for your help.