Great video and advice! Only two details... Lube on the sear shouldn't cause a slam fire AT ALL. It is indeed necessary to prevent undue wear and have a smoother trigger pull. If it does cause the firing pin to release, it means you have some serious trigger issue that should be corrected ASAP by a gunsmith. Consider it a RED, BLINKING alarm with a siren wailing away. Not lubing the firing pin is not a solution. On most bolt action rifles the sear and firing pin tail are connected via slanted surfaces meant to allow the firing pin to push down the sear and get free, but this is prevented by sear engagement to trigger. This engagement is the critical factor. If lubing the firing pin gets the firing pin to release, you have too little engagement between trigger and sear, or wrong angle of engagement, that allows the added push of the firing pin (thanks to the lube on the slanting surface) to push away the trigger, particularly if the bolt is actuated violently. Try closing the bolt very smartly and quickly: the firing pin MUST NOT release. Also, try pushing strongly against the firing pin tail protruding from the bolt: the firing pin MUST NOT release. Hell, the firing pin should not release even tapping (TAPPING, not hitting) the tail with a nylon hammer (not that this is something to test regularly, as it puts the whole trigger group under undue stress). As for the bolt grease, the rear of the lugs and the primary extraction cam(s) are the most important surfaces to lube: the top of the lugs and the sides undergo just light friction and carry no load, it's the rear of the lugs that bears the pressure of the gun firing and undergo the most friction during bolt opening, together with the primary extraction camming surface, which is placed differently depending upon action. These have to be greased, to prevent undue wear.
I just had to go through this with the exact same gun! My bolt was jamming up when loading a round. I had to hit it with my palm to get it to go forward. I cleaned and lubed the bolt and raceways, problem solved. Great video.
Just got my first bolt-action, a Howa M1500, and the block sticks and feels stiff. Not anywhere near as smooth as what you have demonstrated. So, I started lookin around for info on maintenance on a bolty, and found your video. Answered a lot of questions, and helped a lot. Bout to purchase both products you used here, as I have not yet acquired anything for my rifle. Thanks a boat load, Gary! +1.
Try that Boretech I have been using it for a couple years and after 58 years of using other things it works the best out there and you can use it indoors too!
How did that Howa turn out? Just got my 6.5cm Howa 1500 mounted up in the chassis. Cocking bolt lift is heavy. Dry fired about 500 times with snap caps, it's smoother now. Haven't been to the range with it as I'm still waiting for the optic. How did this grease work out for you?
Very informative, thorough yet concise video explaining the whole procedure! As a new rifle owner I am excited to apply this methodology on my bolt action rifle! Thanks!
Lube on the sear will not cause a slam fire unless the sear has negative angle on the sear engagement. In which case it was already a dangerous sear. The fix is a trigger job to bring sear engagement back to positive or neutral angle. Has nothing to do with lube.
I definitely recommend lubricant on a budget gun such as the Ruger American. Atleast during the initial break in period. The Lube will help out with wearing things down/mating the bolt the the receiver. Some guns have pretty rough machining to get the price that low. Just make sure you constantly clean it. Now my bolt is smooth as butter; and there is no more zipper sound. The slam fire thing is interesting. Reminds me of SKS rifles that have cosmoline causing the firing pin to get stuck/gummed up. Thanks for all the knowledge on this.
I use Lucas Extreme duty grease. Apply lightly on a pipe cleaner and then apply to lugs and other areas. Smooth as silk, a little goes a long way. The pipe cleaner with a little grease rubbed in leaves just enough lube on the places you need it
Nothing wrong with that and i've used brake cleaner in the past quite a bit myself but it will damage the finish on some part and plastics. Been there and done that on several occasions. Never had that problem with Lucas.
Well that’s not true at all. You can see wear marks on all bolt bodies and on the inside of the action outside of the race ways. Some actions more than others but to say the only contact is at locking lugs and action ways is easily demonstrably false. Always enjoy the discussions and debates on these matters. Thanks for watching! -Gary
@@paramounttactical I will admit when I'm in error I have a controller round feed bolt which I typically a tighter tolerence fit and doesn't allow as much wear I enjoy your channel and content. I will try the lube on your link.
@@curtday5463 I’m happy to admit when I’m wrong as well my friend, and I am often. That’s what this community is about, learning from one another, capitalizing on collective experience for all of us to grow, be better at and have a deeper understanding of what we love. I’m glad you’re here and never hesitate to challenge me on anything. I get it wrong sometimes and definitely explain things wrong ALL the time. You and yours have a wonderful 2023 and make sure to join us live on Wednesdays for the Dangerous Liberty Podcast! God bless! -Gary
My opinion, A hunting bolt action rifle should be equipped with No Tool Bolt stripping. Like Mauser, Model 70, SAKO etc. If you expose your rifle to harsh winter conditions: freezing rain, rain and freezing nights, just harsh conditions generally.
Love your content man! Super knowledgeable can you please include a list of the stuff you’re using. I’m making a cleaning kit for a 6.5cm and want to see everything you use.
We make it easy for you. All the cleaning gear I use is in one bundle that’s caliber specific. www.paramounttactical.com/product/rifle-cleaning-bundle/
Yeah… that’s not gonna happen. 1) If you’re watching a US produced video it’s common sense that it’s in F. 2) I threw that number out very passively and wasn’t meant to be an exact temp. The operative phrase was “heat it up, get it warm but not so hot you can’t touch it”. That clearly rules out 200 C. I don’t expect to watch a video made in Europe and for them to on the fly convert to F. That would be a ridiculous expectation. Now if i was describing something that needed an exact temp… I would probably consider it. Thanks for watching and I do appreciate the comment though. Thanks, Gary
Thanks for the information, it's very helpful. Are you planning to make a video about how humidity affects the storage of weapons and ammunition? I recently experienced a "delayed" shot from ammo stored in wet conditions (1 year humidity 70%). Could high humidity be the cause of the problem?
That’s known as a hang fire. I mean… it could be humidity but it could have just been a bad round. Once assembled, modern ammunition is pretty weather proof. If it was a hand load it’s more likely the powder was stored in bad conditions before being assembled. Same could happen at an ammo manufacturer or they just got bad powder. Could also be a bad primer. Typically when that happens it’s due to really old ammo or really old powder. I don’t think storage conditions were the problem. Thanks for watching! -Gary
@@KM-xo7py well you’re kind of jumping topics on me a little bit or maybe I focused on the wrong part of your question. I don’t think 70% humidity (which is relatively low and 65-70% is recommended as ideal for health in a home) caused a hang fire. You should store ammunition in a relatively climate controlled environment. Drastic swings in temp have an equally deleterious effect on ammo as moisture does. Do I think you need to store ammo in airtight container in the avg home? No. Are you storing your ammo in an outdoor shed or conex? Airtight container may help but the swings in temp aren’t good either. Store in a cool relatively dry place. 70% humidity is still relatively dry. 90% and you might have issues. My point was I don’t believe the conditions you described contributed to a hang fire. Especially if it was only one round out of a box/lot of ammo. Hope that clarifies. Thanks, Gary
Great video, I use light coat of Slip 2000 lube, rub along bolt body, let it sit for a few mins, wipe off extra. But I was thinking, what about using BoreTechs “Quik Dri” Dry lube on bolt body and lugs?
You have to use grease for lugs. We stock and sell the Quick Dry, it was one of the many lives I tested. It’s good but the Friction Guard XP is unbelievable slick and dry. Thanks for watching! -Gary
Hey Gary, after more research I’m gonna grab some. Bore Tech actually used to call it Teflon Gun Oil. Midway USAs description says it used DuPont Teflon additives. That must be why it’s so slick to the touch when dry! So you’re right, why get the just Teflon coating when I can get this which combines Teflon and actual oils for best of both worlds (rust prevention and lubricious, wet or dry). You’re the best!
If your not using break free your wrong.....get on down! A great home brew lube that's great for lube and conditioning metal is to use Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer with transmission oil. It keeps your gun from rusting and breaks rust down over time. Eats it but safe on metal.
Having been hunting reloading and a rifle collector for 60+ years you are correct on that Lucas oil but I recommend you try that Boretech cleaners and lubes too! I have tried hundreds of products over the years and they make some of the very best! Not trying to tell you what to do but I was so impressed with their products I can’t help but recommend them to all our fellow hunters!
He is correct once a season hunting unless you drop it in mud or dirt and about the same for PRS unless you see a problem develope that it not leading to a normal cleaning
Another great video…thanks for sharing. I watched your other video too and my question is more around cleaning the chamber. Thoughts on the best way to do that (bolt rifle)?
I’ve been meaning to do a video on chamber and action cleaning. I use and recommend the Boretech action cleaning tool and chamber mops both of which are on our website. Fortunately, unlike gas guns, bolt guns get very little fouling in the chamber. Thanks for watching! -Gary
Boretech makes the very best cleaners and lubes! I have been collecting rifles 60+ years and I hunt and reload as well and I have found Boretech to work the very best and it can be used indoors because of no fumes! Great video even for us old farts🤔😳😂
Looks like good stuff. Not sure if I need it on my Tikka as it seems to be coated, PTFE? Seems very slick. Good to know though, I have an M98 Parker Hale that I'm in the process of restoring and need to do a complete bolt strip and clean.
Yeah, Tikka’s have nice actions. If you can degrease/clean an action and it runs smooth… don’t change anything. No lube is optimal. Thanks for watching! -Gary
He is right when in doubt us less! The Tikka is one of the very best for their price range, but unless it’s stainless like most of my Tikka’s are you want to give it a very thin coat at the beginning of a hunt and at the end of a hunt! Your very lucky it takes some hunters years before they find out about Tikka’s! I am a gun collector and have been collecting Sako’s for many years and saw on a form about how good the Tikka’s are and the rest is history! I have owned about 50 or so Tika’s and close to that in Sako’s and for the price they are one of if not the best and are my favorite if the truth be told! I have 7 guns in at the gunsmiths right now and only one is a Sako but finding good buys on Sako’s and Tikka’s is not as easy since so many know about them now!
Because you don’t need any lubricants there and if you start getting grease on the cocking piece, you run the potential of slam fires. Bolt guns are not high friction operating mechanisms. They don’t need lubricants and lube causes more problems than it fixes. Really the only potential problem is galling at the bolt chamber interfaces, which is why we use grease at those points. Thanks for watching! -Gary
@mrcbrrr7484 ok. 🤷♂️ I have gone 20+ years shooting bolt guns and have kept every part of the bolt degreased and dry except the bolt lugs. A lot of that time was operational overseas where we had rifles operating in adverse conditions and getting more rounds through them than 99% of all civilians would ever see. There have been certain rifles in certain conditions, typically due to coatings or poor machining that ran smoother with a bit of lube. Those were exceptions. Between that time in the military and my time as an instructor, I’ve had the opportunity to be exposed to a lot of different rifles and seeing those rifles operate in a lot of different conditions. I’ve seen dozens of times a student or client’s rifle that isn’t cycling properly that has lubricants inside and outside of the bolt where I pull it apart, degrease everything and reassemble and now it’s running perfectly. So that’s how I’ve always ran all of my rifles both personal and assigned, and that’s what I know works. I’m also aware that rifles all have their own characteristics and some will run better using unconventional methods. Ultimately, your rifle is your rifle. You do what you like and what works for you. Do your own testing. See if your rifle works better with the cocking assembly lubed or unlubed. All mine are completely degreased and I have student guns that the action has 5+ thousand cycles and they work perfect with zero signs of wear or run flawlessly. I have never seen an issue with a bolt gun and said, oh it’s because there wasn’t lube on the bolt or on some part of the firing pin and cocking assembly. Never. There’s just not enough friction and heat for it to be. You’re welcome to disagree and do what you want with your rifles. Thanks, Gary
No, I typically don’t lubricator to prevent rust. If you’re in a very wet/humid climate you can run Boretech Shield XP www.paramounttactical.com/product/shield-xp-rust-preventative/ Thanks, Gary
On an EDC carry weapon, Glock or any modern polymer framed weapon. How do you lubricate - oil or grease - heavy or light application? Sorry for being off topic. Greetings from South Africa 🇿🇦
Very light application. I recommend Lucas extreme duty gun oil. I use it for cleaning and lubricating all of my semi-auto firearms including handguns and rifles. Thanks for watching! -Gary
@@shahielharilal6710 not exactly sure. That’s a great question. I’m so used to using items I know work for specific applications that I honestly hadn’t even considered the Boretech Friction Guard for semi auto use. That’s something I should test. I’ve been using Lucas for my ARs and pistols for years in extreme conditions and hard use, and I know it works well. I know the Friction Guard works great for bolts… I’ll have to start using the Friction Guard on my other guns and test that out. You spurred some thought in my brain. Thanks and thanks for watching! If you can ever make it, be sure to join us for our Live Dangerous Liberty Podcasts on Wednesday at 7pm ET. I know it’d be early morning for you but if you can make it, we’d love to have you. -Gary
No lightweight oil internal for the spring like sewing machine oil? Dry spring not ideal. And didn't see great on backside of lugs??? Only two additional things I do
what do you think about just going for a dry lube instead? i use friction guard XP but i know boretech also has a PTFE dry film lube. that may work pretty good.
Bro… reading your responses to some of these keyboard morons…brilliant. Hard for those with no real world application in the field you’re in to come up with something bright of their own so they rag on others to make their peeshgadills feel bigger… I was a 91W with the infantry…. With you all the way broski. Ps great shit on your video and I surely appreciate the knowledge you’re shooting out.
I’ve heard that graphite can be corrosive but haven’t confirmed that but I do know that it doesn’t offer any corrosion resistance and it can gum up in wet weather. Generally speaking graphite lubricants are not a good option for firearms and wasn’t designed for that type of use. I have no clue what their heat tolerance is (not that heat is a major concern in a bolt) nor do I know graphite’s tendency to walk, or end up in places it shouldn’t… or the effects of that. Thanks for watching and great question! -Gary
@paramounttactical - I have 2+ decades exp in Mil aviation/aircraft maintenance. You are correct it would not be good to use. Molybdenum disulfide powder is an excellent lubricator and if applied correctly (lighty brushed, all excess removed) it won't wander, gum up, or attract grime. Also very heat resistant, BUT that's in a sealed dry environment. Contact with water, oil, etc is another story. I personally wouldn't use it.
Gun plumber here. Graphite is no good for for something like a bolt gun. Firstly it’s mainly useful for plastic contact points, second, it would gum up in the f/pin spring real quick.
I use TW25, Bore tech seems to have a lot in cleaning and maintenance. You should do a full product review. I just ordered the BT cleaner. I use Hoppe and Wipe OUT. Got a back shelf of the newest and GREASTEST just sitting around
You can use whatever you like. 🤷♂️ It’s been tried… many times. See how it works for you. But there’s a reason no reputable company that makes products for precision rifles makes a graphite lube for bolts. If it worked, they’d all have a similar product.
Should the action races be lubricated also or just the bolt? Does lubing both surfaces with the same product create any issues or do you typically keep one surface dry while the other is lubed? Cheers
I use as little as lube as possible. I’m going for no lube if possible. If the conditions are such that my action is running smooth without lube, I don’t use any. All that said, I never lube my raceways. Just a very light coat on bolt. More lube = more dirt/carbon build up. If you’re shouting with other people and your action is lubed up and open, muzzle blast dirt will just stick inside your action. But, every rifle/action is different. Some require a fair amount of lube to run smoothly. The better the action, typically the less lube needed. Thanks for watching! -Gary
@@ploxplox1109 it won’t damage it to not have it on there once in a while but you should get grease on there as soon as you can and keep it on there for the life of the rifle.
@@paramounttactical 😂 In all seriousness though, after cleaning just apply a bit of synthetic motor oil to a patch wipe down your bolt. Go over any hard to reach areas with an acid brush. Add a tiny bit of white lithium to the higher friction areas if needed and you're golden. I do this with all my firearms and they handle like butter. Never had any issues.
@@andresmalo254 well you made a generalized statement that in many situations isn’t true. The point of adding lubrication is to reduce the friction coefficient which in turn reduces heat and wear. With a bolt gun that doesn’t have high friction to begin with and the moving parts aren’t operating in a closed system, adding lube in many circumstances will attract dust and debris and will cause a dramatic increase in the friction coefficient. As I discuss in this video, there are times and conditions adding the the right lube in the right circumstances may give added benefit to function. Generally speaking when I see students with bolt actions that are chattering or just aren’t cycling smoothly, the first thing I do is pull the bolt and hit it with a degreaser that removes all the lube they put on it and suddenly it works perfectly again. With the initial push into iraq, the first dust storm that we hit completely changed how we lube even full auto guns. We went from soaking them down to making sure the gun was clean, applying a light amount of lubricant and then wiping any and all excess off. So the point here is to assess the situation and the application of lubricants (how much, which kind, or using at all) is highly dependent on the weapon and the conditions in which they are operating. Thanks for watching. -Gary
Dude, I constantly research, review, and test products and once I decide on what I like, I carry them in our store where I have to look people in the eye and say this is IMO the best for a particular application. We’re a Boretech dealer but there’s several products they have that you’ll never see on here or in my store bc theres better options. That goes with every brand we’re dealers for. How about ask a question instead of automatically challenging my integrity. That’s a POS move on your part. I’m not a UA-camr that just does paid reviews and throws up an affiliate link. We’re first and foremost a training company. We just happen to have a UA-cam channel bc we want to provide information backed by experience. Read my bio and we were doing all this long before we started a UA-cam channel.
So this pretty much an infomercial for certain brands products. Im watching to learn , not have products bombarded at me. Thumbs down for not being fully transparent.
Please explain to me what I’m not being transparent about? Do you know what I get the most emails about? “Which product for this? Best product AND process for this?” I do extensive research, tons of time and money wasted weeding out products, time on the range testing products so that I can give good recommendations to clients and viewers based on my over 20yrs if experience, most of which in Special Operations. If you didn’t get anything out of this or appreciate the 8hrs plus I put into shooting and editing this video… that’s on you. Thumbs down back at ya for being a complete douche. Shoot some videos, share your knowledge FOR ABSOLUTELY FREE… you’ll too experience the joys of ungrateful, ignorant assholes that if they don’t like the content, they can’t bring themselves to just move to another video. Oh no… they have to let you know that you are some sinister person with some wildly ulterior motive and question your integrity before they’ve move along, even though all you’re doing is trying to contribute to the community and share your experience and knowledge and MAYBE, just MAYBE eek out a living and feed your family while doing it. You should try it. It’s fun. Please, do not subscribe, do not like, do not watch my videos. You’re not Paramount Family material. Sincerely, Gary Melton
@@Bill32H-it3sv weird, I laugh at guys like you can know so little but are so full of arrogance they spew complete nonsense with such confidence. Your comments reveal your ignorance. If you don’t know what galling is and how it is detrimental to your action you’re not very knowledgeable. If you want to irreparably damage your bolt lugs and diminish accuracy and lockup, don’t use bolt grease. It’s the guys that know the least that can vomit drivel most confidently.
A bolt action will not 'slam fire'. 870 shotguns, SKS and AR15 rifles can due to a free floating firing pin. The bolt rifle won't just go off because the there is a massive amount of oil. People should not give gun advice if they aren't educated in gunsmithing.
😂 I’ve literally seen it happen. It absolutely will. Educated in gunsmithing? You have no idea who you’re talking to. I’m a former 18B (look it up) with many additional armorer level courses including multiple certifications to service and repair military sniper systems. Bro… I’m not a UA-camr. I’m a former Green Beret that specialized in firearms repair and maintenance and an actual firearms professional with over 20yrs experience that happens to make a few videos here and there. Good try though. As for your ignorant statement “bolt actions don’t slam fire” here, I’ll do your homework for you. Not only does it happen, it happens a lot. Follow the link. “It’s not that you’re ignorant, you just know so much that just isn’t so” -Ronald Reagan www.google.com/search?q=remington+700+slam+fire&rlz=1CDGOYI_enUS857US857&oq=remingtin+700+slam+&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0i22i30j0i390i650l3.13531j1j9&hl=en-US&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8
Great video and advice!
Only two details...
Lube on the sear shouldn't cause a slam fire AT ALL. It is indeed necessary to prevent undue wear and have a smoother trigger pull. If it does cause the firing pin to release, it means you have some serious trigger issue that should be corrected ASAP by a gunsmith.
Consider it a RED, BLINKING alarm with a siren wailing away. Not lubing the firing pin is not a solution.
On most bolt action rifles the sear and firing pin tail are connected via slanted surfaces meant to allow the firing pin to push down the sear and get free, but this is prevented by sear engagement to trigger. This engagement is the critical factor. If lubing the firing pin gets the firing pin to release, you have too little engagement between trigger and sear, or wrong angle of engagement, that allows the added push of the firing pin (thanks to the lube on the slanting surface) to push away the trigger, particularly if the bolt is actuated violently.
Try closing the bolt very smartly and quickly: the firing pin MUST NOT release.
Also, try pushing strongly against the firing pin tail protruding from the bolt: the firing pin MUST NOT release.
Hell, the firing pin should not release even tapping (TAPPING, not hitting) the tail with a nylon hammer (not that this is something to test regularly, as it puts the whole trigger group under undue stress).
As for the bolt grease, the rear of the lugs and the primary extraction cam(s) are the most important surfaces to lube: the top of the lugs and the sides undergo just light friction and carry no load, it's the rear of the lugs that bears the pressure of the gun firing and undergo the most friction during bolt opening, together with the primary extraction camming surface, which is placed differently depending upon action. These have to be greased, to prevent undue wear.
I’m so guilty of using to much oils . So glad you did this . For some reason we think more is better sometimes.
I just had to go through this with the exact same gun! My bolt was jamming up when loading a round. I had to hit it with my palm to get it to go forward. I cleaned and lubed the bolt and raceways, problem solved. Great video.
First time bolt gun buyer. Very informative. Didn't realize how sophisticated a bolt action is.
Just got my first bolt-action, a Howa M1500, and the block sticks and feels stiff. Not anywhere near as smooth as what you have demonstrated. So, I started lookin around for info on maintenance on a bolty, and found your video. Answered a lot of questions, and helped a lot. Bout to purchase both products you used here, as I have not yet acquired anything for my rifle. Thanks a boat load, Gary! +1.
Try that Boretech I have been using it for a couple years and after 58 years of using other things it works the best out there and you can use it indoors too!
How did that Howa turn out? Just got my 6.5cm Howa 1500 mounted up in the chassis. Cocking bolt lift is heavy. Dry fired about 500 times with snap caps, it's smoother now. Haven't been to the range with it as I'm still waiting for the optic. How did this grease work out for you?
Very informative, thorough yet concise video explaining the whole procedure! As a new rifle owner I am excited to apply this methodology on my bolt action rifle! Thanks!
I learn so much from your channel I honestly really appreciate what you do thank you.
Lube on the sear will not cause a slam fire unless the sear has negative angle on the sear engagement. In which case it was already a dangerous sear. The fix is a trigger job to bring sear engagement back to positive or neutral angle. Has nothing to do with lube.
@@steve77vette cool. Still no need to lube it.
I definitely recommend lubricant on a budget gun such as the Ruger American. Atleast during the initial break in period. The Lube will help out with wearing things down/mating the bolt the the receiver. Some guns have pretty rough machining to get the price that low.
Just make sure you constantly clean it. Now my bolt is smooth as butter; and there is no more zipper sound.
The slam fire thing is interesting. Reminds me of SKS rifles that have cosmoline causing the firing pin to get stuck/gummed up.
Thanks for all the knowledge on this.
I still have the “zipper sound” on my Browning AB3.
I use Lucas Extreme duty grease. Apply lightly on a pipe cleaner and then apply to lugs and other areas. Smooth as silk, a little goes a long way. The pipe cleaner with a little grease rubbed in leaves just enough lube on the places you need it
I use Lucas oil in thin layers on my bolt head and Hoppe's down the barrel after I clean the barrel to prevent rust.
My go-to degreaser is simply brake cleaner.
Nothing wrong with that and i've used brake cleaner in the past quite a bit myself but it will damage the finish on some part and plastics. Been there and done that on several occasions. Never had that problem with Lucas.
Me too, non-chlorinated
Great lighting and close ups. Very good instructions
Also clean gun parts in simple green you'll be amazed how nice n slick they work afterwards
The only metal to metal contact in between the locking lugs and action ways. Treating the bolt body is for rust preventative soley.
Well that’s not true at all. You can see wear marks on all bolt bodies and on the inside of the action outside of the race ways. Some actions more than others but to say the only contact is at locking lugs and action ways is easily demonstrably false.
Always enjoy the discussions and debates on these matters.
Thanks for watching!
-Gary
@@paramounttactical I will admit when I'm in error I have a controller round feed bolt which I typically a tighter tolerence fit and doesn't allow as much wear I enjoy your channel and content. I will try the lube on your link.
@@curtday5463 I’m happy to admit when I’m wrong as well my friend, and I am often. That’s what this community is about, learning from one another, capitalizing on collective experience for all of us to grow, be better at and have a deeper understanding of what we love. I’m glad you’re here and never hesitate to challenge me on anything. I get it wrong sometimes and definitely explain things wrong ALL the time. You and yours have a wonderful 2023 and make sure to join us live on Wednesdays for the Dangerous Liberty Podcast! God bless! -Gary
My opinion, A hunting bolt action rifle should be equipped with No Tool Bolt stripping. Like Mauser, Model 70, SAKO etc. If you expose your rifle to harsh winter conditions: freezing rain, rain and freezing nights, just harsh conditions generally.
Lot's of great info for us beginners. Thanks for everything you do 👍
Us old timers too! I had tried about everything on the market and that Boretech just makes the job so much easier and better, especially indoors
Love your content man! Super knowledgeable can you please include a list of the stuff you’re using. I’m making a cleaning kit for a 6.5cm and want to see everything you use.
We make it easy for you. All the cleaning gear I use is in one bundle that’s caliber specific. www.paramounttactical.com/product/rifle-cleaning-bundle/
Literally thinking this the other day. Thank you for the video! 😊
When mentioning temperature, make sure that you clarify Fahrenheit or Celsius, being an American you probably still use the former .
Yeah… that’s not gonna happen. 1) If you’re watching a US produced video it’s common sense that it’s in F. 2) I threw that number out very passively and wasn’t meant to be an exact temp. The operative phrase was “heat it up, get it warm but not so hot you can’t touch it”. That clearly rules out 200 C.
I don’t expect to watch a video made in Europe and for them to on the fly convert to F. That would be a ridiculous expectation.
Now if i was describing something that needed an exact temp… I would probably consider it.
Thanks for watching and I do appreciate the comment though.
Thanks, Gary
Thanks for the information, it's very helpful. Are you planning to make a video about how humidity affects the storage of weapons and ammunition? I recently experienced a "delayed" shot from ammo stored in wet conditions (1 year humidity 70%). Could high humidity be the cause of the problem?
That’s known as a hang fire. I mean… it could be humidity but it could have just been a bad round. Once assembled, modern ammunition is pretty weather proof. If it was a hand load it’s more likely the powder was stored in bad conditions before being assembled. Same could happen at an ammo manufacturer or they just got bad powder. Could also be a bad primer. Typically when that happens it’s due to really old ammo or really old powder. I don’t think storage conditions were the problem.
Thanks for watching!
-Gary
@@paramounttactical That means, there's no point in storing ammunition in airtight containers then?
@@KM-xo7py well you’re kind of jumping topics on me a little bit or maybe I focused on the wrong part of your question.
I don’t think 70% humidity (which is relatively low and 65-70% is recommended as ideal for health in a home) caused a hang fire.
You should store ammunition in a relatively climate controlled environment. Drastic swings in temp have an equally deleterious effect on ammo as moisture does.
Do I think you need to store ammo in airtight container in the avg home? No. Are you storing your ammo in an outdoor shed or conex? Airtight container may help but the swings in temp aren’t good either.
Store in a cool relatively dry place. 70% humidity is still relatively dry. 90% and you might have issues. My point was I don’t believe the conditions you described contributed to a hang fire. Especially if it was only one round out of a box/lot of ammo.
Hope that clarifies.
Thanks, Gary
Great video, I use light coat of Slip 2000 lube, rub along bolt body, let it sit for a few mins, wipe off extra. But I was thinking, what about using BoreTechs “Quik Dri” Dry lube on bolt body and lugs?
You have to use grease for lugs. We stock and sell the Quick Dry, it was one of the many lives I tested. It’s good but the Friction Guard XP is unbelievable slick and dry.
Thanks for watching! -Gary
@@paramounttactical Roger that, thanks for the input Gary. Hope you had a Merry Christmas. Happy New Year to you and your family.
Hey Gary, after more research I’m gonna grab some. Bore Tech actually used to call it Teflon Gun Oil. Midway USAs description says it used DuPont Teflon additives. That must be why it’s so slick to the touch when dry! So you’re right, why get the just Teflon coating when I can get this which combines Teflon and actual oils for best of both worlds (rust prevention and lubricious, wet or dry). You’re the best!
If your not using break free your wrong.....get on down!
A great home brew lube that's great for lube and conditioning metal is to use Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer with transmission oil. It keeps your gun from rusting and breaks rust down over time. Eats it but safe on metal.
Having been hunting reloading and a rifle collector for 60+ years you are correct on that Lucas oil but I recommend you try that Boretech cleaners and lubes too! I have tried hundreds of products over the years and they make some of the very best! Not trying to tell you what to do but I was so impressed with their products I can’t help but recommend them to all our fellow hunters!
GREAT video! I noticed 304 area code! What part of the hills are you all in?
Gerrardstown/Summit Point WV.
I just ordered a few items and read that you are combat veteran owned! Thank you for fighting for freedom!
How often do you normally break the bolt down completely for inspection/cleaning of the firing pin and spring? Especially on a PRS type rifle.
Almost never. Pull it apart once a year or so just to inspect. That’s all I would do but you can do it more or less often if you’d like.
He is correct once a season hunting unless you drop it in mud or dirt and about the same for PRS unless you see a problem develope that it not leading to a normal cleaning
Another great video…thanks for sharing. I watched your other video too and my question is more around cleaning the chamber. Thoughts on the best way to do that (bolt rifle)?
I’ve been meaning to do a video on chamber and action cleaning. I use and recommend the Boretech action cleaning tool and chamber mops both of which are on our website. Fortunately, unlike gas guns, bolt guns get very little fouling in the chamber.
Thanks for watching!
-Gary
@@paramounttactical thanks…will keep an eye out.
Boretech makes the very best cleaners and lubes! I have been collecting rifles 60+ years and I hunt and reload as well and I have found Boretech to work the very best and it can be used indoors because of no fumes! Great video even for us old farts🤔😳😂
Those in cold climates make sure your lube dont gel up in the cold.
Another good reason to apply as I directed so there isn’t any excess to freeze and impede the action.
Great video! I’ll definitely pick some of that stuff up from you
Looks like good stuff. Not sure if I need it on my Tikka as it seems to be coated, PTFE? Seems very slick. Good to know though, I have an M98 Parker Hale that I'm in the process of restoring and need to do a complete bolt strip and clean.
Yeah, Tikka’s have nice actions. If you can degrease/clean an action and it runs smooth… don’t change anything. No lube is optimal.
Thanks for watching! -Gary
He is right when in doubt us less! The Tikka is one of the very best for their price range, but unless it’s stainless like most of my Tikka’s are you want to give it a very thin coat at the beginning of a hunt and at the end of a hunt! Your very lucky it takes some hunters years before they find out about Tikka’s! I am a gun collector and have been collecting Sako’s for many years and saw on a form about how good the Tikka’s are and the rest is history! I have owned about 50 or so Tika’s and close to that in Sako’s and for the price they are one of if not the best and are my favorite if the truth be told! I have 7 guns in at the gunsmiths right now and only one is a Sako but finding good buys on Sako’s and Tikka’s is not as easy since so many know about them now!
No grease on the back of the lug or does it get worked in when you dab the excess?
I work it in on the entire lug. Probably didn’t make that clear enough. Great question.
@@paramounttactical Thanks for the clarification. I look forward to getting the two products in the next couple of weeks. Thank you again.
always grease the Lug abutments always, clean then grease, keep lug area clean and greased very important, gualing will kill a bolt
@@planeiron241 ☝️💯
All I’ve ever used is a light coating of gun oil on my bolt action bolts, including the lugs. Have never had any excess wear.
I noticed you didn’t mention anything about the firing pin cam area ?
Because you don’t need any lubricants there and if you start getting grease on the cocking piece, you run the potential of slam fires. Bolt guns are not high friction operating mechanisms. They don’t need lubricants and lube causes more problems than it fixes. Really the only potential problem is galling at the bolt chamber interfaces, which is why we use grease at those points.
Thanks for watching!
-Gary
@@paramounttactical I was referring specifically a Remington 700 bolt cocking ramp not the actual cocking piece that holds the sear.
@mrcbrrr7484 ok. 🤷♂️ I have gone 20+ years shooting bolt guns and have kept every part of the bolt degreased and dry except the bolt lugs. A lot of that time was operational overseas where we had rifles operating in adverse conditions and getting more rounds through them than 99% of all civilians would ever see. There have been certain rifles in certain conditions, typically due to coatings or poor machining that ran smoother with a bit of lube. Those were exceptions.
Between that time in the military and my time as an instructor, I’ve had the opportunity to be exposed to a lot of different rifles and seeing those rifles operate in a lot of different conditions.
I’ve seen dozens of times a student or client’s rifle that isn’t cycling properly that has lubricants inside and outside of the bolt where I pull it apart, degrease everything and reassemble and now it’s running perfectly.
So that’s how I’ve always ran all of my rifles both personal and assigned, and that’s what I know works.
I’m also aware that rifles all have their own characteristics and some will run better using unconventional methods.
Ultimately, your rifle is your rifle. You do what you like and what works for you. Do your own testing. See if your rifle works better with the cocking assembly lubed or unlubed. All mine are completely degreased and I have student guns that the action has 5+ thousand cycles and they work perfect with zero signs of wear or run flawlessly. I have never seen an issue with a bolt gun and said, oh it’s because there wasn’t lube on the bolt or on some part of the firing pin and cocking assembly. Never. There’s just not enough friction and heat for it to be. You’re welcome to disagree and do what you want with your rifles.
Thanks,
Gary
@@paramounttactical I appreciate you giving a thorough response on the matter. Thank you for your advice.
Good video Gary I just so happen to have some of the lubricant.. never tried it though. Also you don't grease the backside of the lugs?
Yes I do. I rub the grease all over the lugs.
You are the best. thanks man
Thank you for your video.
Do you run any lubricants, grease or oils on the inside of the action aswell as just the bolt?
Whether to lubricate or to prevent rust etc.
No, I typically don’t lubricator to prevent rust. If you’re in a very wet/humid climate you can run Boretech Shield XP www.paramounttactical.com/product/shield-xp-rust-preventative/
Thanks, Gary
Great tips, thanks 😀
On an EDC carry weapon, Glock or any modern polymer framed weapon. How do you lubricate - oil or grease - heavy or light application? Sorry for being off topic. Greetings from South Africa 🇿🇦
Very light application. I recommend Lucas extreme duty gun oil. I use it for cleaning and lubricating all of my semi-auto firearms including handguns and rifles.
Thanks for watching!
-Gary
@@paramounttactical is Lucas slicker than Bore Tech friction XP gun oil?
@@shahielharilal6710 not exactly sure. That’s a great question. I’m so used to using items I know work for specific applications that I honestly hadn’t even considered the Boretech Friction Guard for semi auto use. That’s something I should test. I’ve been using Lucas for my ARs and pistols for years in extreme conditions and hard use, and I know it works well. I know the Friction Guard works great for bolts…
I’ll have to start using the Friction Guard on my other guns and test that out. You spurred some thought in my brain. Thanks and thanks for watching! If you can ever make it, be sure to join us for our Live Dangerous Liberty Podcasts on Wednesday at 7pm ET. I know it’d be early morning for you but if you can make it, we’d love to have you.
-Gary
Thoughts on using a very little amount of good old LSA?
Given how thick LSA is that would slow down the action and attract dirt and gum up.
Some great tips, thanks👍🇬🇧
Where's the best place to get that gun lube in Arizona
Paramounttactical.com
What kind of mirage/heat shield do you have on your rifle? Besides MDT, where can I find one for the LSS XL GEN2?
A louver from a window blind works great.
Thats a cool looking rifle! What is it?
MPA PMR Pro II rumble.com/v26rh26-definitive-review-masterpiece-arms-pmr-pro-ii-best-long-range-precision-rif.html
No lightweight oil internal for the spring like sewing machine oil? Dry spring not ideal. And didn't see great on backside of lugs???
Only two additional things I do
👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽 Great video. Quality content, sound, and picture. All the details covered. 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Thank you sir. Just a knuckle dragger trying to make the video worth watching.
-Gary
what do you think about just going for a dry lube instead? i use friction guard XP but i know boretech also has a PTFE dry film lube. that may work pretty good.
Dry films will gum up and collect in areas. I don’t recommend.
Thanks for watching!
-Gary
Great video thanks for sharing.
Bro… reading your responses to some of these keyboard morons…brilliant. Hard for those with no real world application in the field you’re in to come up with something bright of their own so they rag on others to make their peeshgadills feel bigger… I was a 91W with the infantry…. With you all the way broski. Ps great shit on your video and I surely appreciate the knowledge you’re shooting out.
Thanks man. Yes, the YT comments are where the special go to speak. 😂
Is there a problem with using a dry graphite lubricating spray?
I’ve heard that graphite can be corrosive but haven’t confirmed that but I do know that it doesn’t offer any corrosion resistance and it can gum up in wet weather. Generally speaking graphite lubricants are not a good option for firearms and wasn’t designed for that type of use. I have no clue what their heat tolerance is (not that heat is a major concern in a bolt) nor do I know graphite’s tendency to walk, or end up in places it shouldn’t… or the effects of that.
Thanks for watching and great question!
-Gary
@@paramounttactical thanks for the excellent response. I think you may have saved me some grief. 🙂
@paramounttactical - I have 2+ decades exp in Mil aviation/aircraft maintenance. You are correct it would not be good to use.
Molybdenum disulfide powder is an excellent lubricator and if applied correctly (lighty brushed, all excess removed) it won't wander, gum up, or attract grime. Also very heat resistant, BUT that's in a sealed dry environment. Contact with water, oil, etc is another story. I personally wouldn't use it.
Gun plumber here. Graphite is no good for for something like a bolt gun.
Firstly it’s mainly useful for plastic contact points, second, it would gum up in the f/pin spring real quick.
Do you add to back of lugs where it locks up to action, didnt see you add it.
Yes sir.
I use TW25, Bore tech seems to have a lot in cleaning and maintenance. You should do a full product review. I just ordered the BT cleaner. I use Hoppe and Wipe OUT. Got a back shelf of the newest and GREASTEST just sitting around
"Your wife's toaster oven" Buddy if you're eating her cooking that's YOUR toaster over together.
Why can’t you use the same stuff that you use to lubricant axels on the little cars, Graphite. It’s dry and super slick.
Dry lube on bolts collects on the raceways and just doesn’t work well for any guns.
Thx
Yes you need good lubricant
Bolt luggs should be lightly lubed to prevent galling..
Yes. That’s what I covered…
Thanks for watching.
-Gary
Great info ! Thank you.
Thanks for watching! -Gary
Great video. Thank you
Thank you and thanks for watching!
-Gary
Pinewood Car Graphite Powder, 0.5OZ, Graphite Lubricant Lube Powder for Pine Derby Car Kits Wheels Axles, Lock Lubricant Door Hinge Lubricant
You can use whatever you like. 🤷♂️
It’s been tried… many times. See how it works for you.
But there’s a reason no reputable company that makes products for precision rifles makes a graphite lube for bolts. If it worked, they’d all have a similar product.
Should the action races be lubricated also or just the bolt? Does lubing both surfaces with the same product create any issues or do you typically keep one surface dry while the other is lubed? Cheers
I use as little as lube as possible. I’m going for no lube if possible. If the conditions are such that my action is running smooth without lube, I don’t use any. All that said, I never lube my raceways. Just a very light coat on bolt. More lube = more dirt/carbon build up. If you’re shouting with other people and your action is lubed up and open, muzzle blast dirt will just stick inside your action. But, every rifle/action is different. Some require a fair amount of lube to run smoothly. The better the action, typically the less lube needed.
Thanks for watching!
-Gary
Is it ok to just use that bore tech oil on the lugs? Don’t have the grease but will order it later ???
@@ploxplox1109 it won’t damage it to not have it on there once in a while but you should get grease on there as soon as you can and keep it on there for the life of the rifle.
this work for ar bolt?
No. Use Lucas extreme gun lube for an AR.
Nice shirt it's the truth
They’re on our website!
www.paramounttactical.com/product-category/swag/
Motor oil and wipe off the excess. Done.
😂🙄 no.
@@paramounttactical 😂 In all seriousness though, after cleaning just apply a bit of synthetic motor oil to a patch wipe down your bolt. Go over any hard to reach areas with an acid brush. Add a tiny bit of white lithium to the higher friction areas if needed and you're golden. I do this with all my firearms and they handle like butter. Never had any issues.
👍
Metal against metal always you need to use lub, period.
Uh no. That’s a silly statement,
@@paramounttactical expand :)
@@andresmalo254 well you made a generalized statement that in many situations isn’t true. The point of adding lubrication is to reduce the friction coefficient which in turn reduces heat and wear. With a bolt gun that doesn’t have high friction to begin with and the moving parts aren’t operating in a closed system, adding lube in many circumstances will attract dust and debris and will cause a dramatic increase in the friction coefficient. As I discuss in this video, there are times and conditions adding the the right lube in the right circumstances may give added benefit to function. Generally speaking when I see students with bolt actions that are chattering or just aren’t cycling smoothly, the first thing I do is pull the bolt and hit it with a degreaser that removes all the lube they put on it and suddenly it works perfectly again.
With the initial push into iraq, the first dust storm that we hit completely changed how we lube even full auto guns. We went from soaking them down to making sure the gun was clean, applying a light amount of lubricant and then wiping any and all excess off.
So the point here is to assess the situation and the application of lubricants (how much, which kind, or using at all) is highly dependent on the weapon and the conditions in which they are operating.
Thanks for watching.
-Gary
Cadê a legenda?!
WD-40
😋
👍👍👍👊
Back at ya.
Thanks for watching.
-Gary
its funny how all the "best products" you found to care for your bolt rifle you also sell on your website.
Dude, I constantly research, review, and test products and once I decide on what I like, I carry them in our store where I have to look people in the eye and say this is IMO the best for a particular application. We’re a Boretech dealer but there’s several products they have that you’ll never see on here or in my store bc theres better options. That goes with every brand we’re dealers for. How about ask a question instead of automatically challenging my integrity. That’s a POS move on your part. I’m not a UA-camr that just does paid reviews and throws up an affiliate link. We’re first and foremost a training company. We just happen to have a UA-cam channel bc we want to provide information backed by experience. Read my bio and we were doing all this long before we started a UA-cam channel.
Your videos are great but damn 10+ min is just looong man...
Cool. Some people like details. For others there’s a slider bar at the bottom and you can also fast forward
So this pretty much an infomercial for certain brands products. Im watching to learn , not have products bombarded at me. Thumbs down for not being fully transparent.
Please explain to me what I’m not being transparent about? Do you know what I get the most emails about? “Which product for this? Best product AND process for this?” I do extensive research, tons of time and money wasted weeding out products, time on the range testing products so that I can give good recommendations to clients and viewers based on my over 20yrs if experience, most of which in Special Operations. If you didn’t get anything out of this or appreciate the 8hrs plus I put into shooting and editing this video… that’s on you. Thumbs down back at ya for being a complete douche. Shoot some videos, share your knowledge FOR ABSOLUTELY FREE… you’ll too experience the joys of ungrateful, ignorant assholes that if they don’t like the content, they can’t bring themselves to just move to another video. Oh no… they have to let you know that you are some sinister person with some wildly ulterior motive and question your integrity before they’ve move along, even though all you’re doing is trying to contribute to the community and share your experience and knowledge and MAYBE, just MAYBE eek out a living and feed your family while doing it. You should try it. It’s fun.
Please, do not subscribe, do not like, do not watch my videos. You’re not Paramount Family material.
Sincerely,
Gary Melton
@@Bill32H-it3sv weird, I laugh at guys like you can know so little but are so full of arrogance they spew complete nonsense with such confidence. Your comments reveal your ignorance. If you don’t know what galling is and how it is detrimental to your action you’re not very knowledgeable. If you want to irreparably damage your bolt lugs and diminish accuracy and lockup, don’t use bolt grease. It’s the guys that know the least that can vomit drivel most confidently.
A bolt action will not 'slam fire'. 870 shotguns, SKS and AR15 rifles can due to a free floating firing pin. The bolt rifle won't just go off because the there is a massive amount of oil. People should not give gun advice if they aren't educated in gunsmithing.
😂 I’ve literally seen it happen. It absolutely will. Educated in gunsmithing?
You have no idea who you’re talking to. I’m a former 18B (look it up) with many additional armorer level courses including multiple certifications to service and repair military sniper systems. Bro… I’m not a UA-camr. I’m a former Green Beret that specialized in firearms repair and maintenance and an actual firearms professional with over 20yrs experience that happens to make a few videos here and there. Good try though. As for your ignorant statement “bolt actions don’t slam fire” here, I’ll do your homework for you.
Not only does it happen, it happens a lot. Follow the link.
“It’s not that you’re ignorant, you just know so much that just isn’t so” -Ronald Reagan
www.google.com/search?q=remington+700+slam+fire&rlz=1CDGOYI_enUS857US857&oq=remingtin+700+slam+&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0i22i30j0i390i650l3.13531j1j9&hl=en-US&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8
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