For the people that don’t want to watch the video and want to tap away at the keyboard for no reason: He was zeroing their rifle for 200 yards but used 50 yards as a starting point, using ballistics calculations, which can be found using various apps or website by in putting the data that’s published on the box. From there the man’s trued up his zero at the desired range. Assuming that he had the true velocity this is what everyone with any sort of sense does. But I guess the YT comment section is just cracked on over complicating things that are not. Hopefully he pins this or makes another video explaining this.
I really am not a an of anything except a 100yd zero. I understand the idea that a 200yd zero allows a 0-300 dead hold and it should land in the kill zone regardless of the distance. However coma pause… This only works in open spaces where there’s nothing blocking the path of the bullet. If you have to thread the needle through a 6” hole at 75-100yd that means you have to hold under to get pinpoint accuracy. Instead, any time you have a 100yd zero everything is always a hold over. Shots at 40yd, 140, 240, 340, it’s always held over.
@soonerfrac4611 what animal.are you shooting that you can't hit througha 6" circle with a 200yd zero? That literally puts you at 1-1.5" high at 100yds with most calibers. And why are you shooting at an animal that you have no other shot but to "thread the needle?" That seems kinda reckless.
@ Interestingly enough, I saw this at extreme close range. The shot was inside 15yds with a Marlin 30-30, shot clipped the deers breastbone and never entered the body cavity, sent a shard up through the aorta. Went 60yds without a drop of blood anywhere, most blood I’ve ever seen inside an animal. But, I didn’t learn it from hunting 4 legged animals but 2. When making a precision shot that must be inside a 1” circle or less, 6” rise and fall of a max point blank zero isn’t good enough.
You are the only one on here that makes sense. Everyone wants to buy a buget rifle and shoot long distance or compare it to an expensive rifle. GOOD VIDEO.
I mean the price of a rife don't matter if it's a appropriate caliber it's gonna go long distance regardless. I think the ammo matter more than the price of the gun good ammo with give u good consistency T long ranges I've seen cheap rifles run better or just as good as expensive one's
@mikewest9033 exactly 👍 however there IS a difference in overall quality but the difference in the results are pretty minute, so unless ur shooting competitively I’d say no point in getting expensive ones. Hunting, anything that shoots will basically go u just gotta be a decent shot lol
Well explained. Master level rifleman here, you did a great job describing each step. You will serve many rookie shooters well. Thanks for that lesson audit! Thanks for also consulting the Ballistics App(s) so that beginners won’t be reluctant to try this method. Great job demystifying this concept! Peace Be The Journey, brown brother!
I have Savage 110 fcp LE in 308 with a very heavy barel. It likes the fusion 165gr ammo. I Zero at 200yds. At 200yds she will put 5 shots on top of each other, ( if I do my job ) . I never dreamed that Savage made a rifrel that shot this well. THANKS TO THE PEOPLE AT SAVAGE, YOU HAVE MADE ME A TRUE BELIVER IN YOUR PRODUCT.
I like the method you have shown in this video. I'm kinda old school when it comes to sighting in hunting rifles but your method did work well for me to teach my nephew how to sight in an easier way than I do it. He has a budget 308 and a tight budget for ammo so it worked great for him. Me on the other hand I'm gonna be hard headed and stick with the "get it close and move it to 100 " method. Good video thanks for the lesson.
Shoot it at 200 yards, so you know where the bullets will land at that distance. Take one shot, rest a few minutes, and do A five shit group. Do this in still air from a cold bore.
I very much enjoyed your video Niko , good solid advice.. And you kept the veiwers attention with your delivery - thanks for not putting loud , distracting Rock music in your video too!
Yes the ballistics calculator is great. I usually site in right on at 20 yards and then I am 4” to 6” high at 100 yards and couple 2” high at 200 yards and close to zero at 300 yards with calibers .270 and up. Good video and tip!
Got to be careful with those Mid-range shots on game with that trajectory.. I did much the same many years ago but found my hits were always at the top part of the Deer or Moose. I did lower my Zero down some , 1.7" high at 100 yards with most non-magnum cartridges will put you dead on at 200 yds , so you can just settle the crosshairs and squeese the trigger!
@@km6731 that's why you remember that. My brother's 300 win mag is set to shoot 6 or 8 high at 100. Because the elk and deer he kills are usually 4 to 500 yards. He's old now, and it's getting heavy, but they still always drop in a pile. Knocks them dead.
That’s why it’s important to set ur zero to what ranges you’ll typically be shooting from! For the distances I hunt at the 50/200 works perfectly. But if ur doing longer distances it’ll depend. Fundamentals stay the same. Know ur ballistics and ur target game! 😎
Great job explaining this method 😊 I know a lot of people get confused when I tell them.. 16 clicks equals one inch at 25 8 clicks equals one inch at 50 4 clicks equals one inch at 100 2 clicks equals one inch at 200 Provided the value is 1/4 MOA or one click equals 1/4 at 100 yards 😊 That being said.. I didn't figure that out until hunting and shooting for ten years! My father was the one who put a paper plate at thirty yards and said.. if you can hit it.. you're good to go! When my brother completed his many tours in the Marine Corps.. he straightened me out and we actually spent numerous days at the range prior to going afield 😊 That being said.. this year was the first time that I cleanly missed a buck! Didn't take branches into the equation!!! I will next time 😮
I have been shooting 50+ years, always with iron sights. Unfortunately, age has caught up with me. I had every intention of buying an Axis .308 at the beginning of the year, to go hunting with my son who has an AR in .308. Then I went to a gun show and found a beautiful sporterized K98k rebarreled in 7mm Mauser with a 25 year old Leupold M8 6X scope that shoots 1.5" groups at 100 yards for about the same price. I guess we will see if either round is more effective. Good video with good information and explanation.
Especially thank you for the ballistics information a lot of people don't look it up and don't understand how it makes a difference former bravo 4 here.
Well presented point of view!! IMO, a variation p.o.v. on max point blank range, but also worthy. I've been a shooter for 65+ years. Mostly hunting/ "plinking". It is difficult to envision, identify, rectify, and prepare for the MYRIAD of variables involved in shooting. Some people choose the MANIC Long Range Perfection route, and theoretically, that is what we wish for, and work toward. However, I'm simply lazy, and "get'er done is good enough" suits me. Locally, I have been the "go to" guy for advice/ assistance, up to the proliferation of KEYBOARD WARRIORS. Now, I'm an old school dinousaur!!LOL!! But my point( and possibly/ probably your point) is that the more people feel confident, and enjoy shooting sports, the bigger it will grow/ the better off the whole system will be. TY.
I have always shot my rifles in at 50 yards when I sight them in. I look at the trajectory for the load I am going to be shooting is and based on that information I know that at 50 yds with an 80 grain bullets it needs to be just about 1/2" high. At 100 it's 2.1"high and has 5" of drop at 400 yards which is my personal limit for taking game. I've been using this method since I was 12 years old on all of my rifles and it's worked great.
Nice video. I have the Exact savage rifle in 6.5 Creedmoor. I wanted the .308 Cabela's wAS OUT OF STOCK. I REALLY LIKE THE 6.5. CREEDMOOR. My only complain is the cost of the 6.5 Creedmoor ammo. It very good shooting and very Reliable. Thanks agin for your video.
6.5 creed is a great round good choice on that, if I could redo I’d have gotten the 6.5! What ammo are u shooting for it? Federal fusion 6.5 seemed to work well for my other gun
Like the video man. I bought the axis in 308 myself just for a cheap hunting rifle. It had me very frustrated at first. I filled the foregrip with resin, filled the but stock with silicone, and put a decent bushnell on it (had an old brokenone laying around and got it warranted). It's no "tack driver" but it's definitely a totally different rifle now.
well dang someone finally caught on ..... we've been doing this for over 45 years way back in the late 70's there was a hunting rag called Petersons hunting that touched on this little known secret and monthly put out dope info for different calibers and touched on where a bullet crossed zero for 100 or 2 or 300 yds. some were as close ae 37 yds. best to test at distance when zeroed
Still a great pump gun even though it is mostly plastic, ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxh4su9YgU1tWmjikirWcKJbjsFLEU62Bc but with care it will last a long time. It would be neat if Crosman would make a commemorative version of this with real wood stock, but of course it would weigh more and cost more, but hey, it would be cool. The included scope is more of a toy, but it does work for backyard plinking. I prefer to use pellets for greater accuracy, but BBs are just as good for plinking. This is not a Red Ryder folks; fully pumped it is 3 times the power of a Red Ryder and can be dangerous if not handled properly. Be safe out there.
Speer Gold Dot has a higher BC and is made alongside the fusion. Thier identical in construction being both bonded, VLD style with a rebated Boat tail. It has turned my favorite hunting rifle into a Lazer. 3" group at 300 yards off sticks.
Bought a savage axis 1 in 308 last year. Did not have the accu-trigger. Installed mcarbo trigger kit. Went from 4.5 to 1.5 pounds. Groups Went from 5-6 inches at 100 to 1-2 with scope that came on it. Really good, cheap rifles with an inexpensive upgrade. Love the vid my man.
Very knowledgeable young man! For years most every hunter I know zero at 50 for a 200 zero. You will have a 2 to 3 in out to 250 or 300. To be honest every hunter in woods/thickets know you will get 99% at less than 100. Now you also will not carry a shooting rest or be on your belly you will be hand holding and sitting or standing with a tree nearby. Bow hunters are less than 50. So where on your scope do you aim with if less than the 200. Well you are good from 50 to 500 to hit that shoulder. Even if zeroed at 100 you are good. But look at some ballistic apps and you will use marks on reticles that would be used at 200 or 300 if closer than 100 and yes you can miss or just wound at 50 or even 30 if you use center of reticle. Also the real skill is the hand hold with sling around arm. Remember you will have no 4 wheeler close by so you will be dragging for a couple 100 yds. also so no chair, no tripod to carry in and out. A 300 yd shot means more drag time with a rifle on your shoulder and maybe a backpack in the dark of night. So much for the youtubers with bench rests, you have to learn hand hold zeroing!!!! Can you do it if not you will miss every time!!!
Thanks for watching, yeah a 50yd zero is about the same as a 200yd zero for what I’m shooting here. Make sure u check the ballistics chart for whatever bullet you’re using and compare your MPBR to whatever ranges you’ll typically shoot at like I’ve explained in the video!
I was very impressed with the quality and clear advice in your video. I am a newer gun owner and always have a hard time getting in at 100+ yds. Could you tell me what ballistic calculator you use?. It seems simple and straight forward. I have tried a couple others but they get very confusing. Please keep up the good work with your videos.
I have a Mossberg Patriot in .308. after watching this video I realize I've got about the same quality of rifle. Thanks for posting. I;m not having much luck with 150 gr ammo as there is alot of muzzle rise. I may try a 165 gr
To know what height you bullet will be at various distances, you will need to know your distance from the center of the bore to center of your optic. This distance is very important! I suggest you use Redfield sight-in targets. The thick bars on the vertical and horizontal are used to place your rifles crosshairs on exactly the same spot. There should be bar exposed on both vertical and horizontal. You center the crosshairs in all 4 directions every shot. You can't do that shooting at a circle. Two hundred yards isn't exactly long distance but if you want some excellent accuracy and excellent bullet performance, try Federal's Terminal Ascent or even better their Swift Scirocco II loadings. The Fusion isn't bad at all, but those two are better. Prices will be relatively the same.
Theres a guy on youtube i seen scrolling through random videos, he hit a target at 1000 yds with the savage axis 2 with 6.5 cr, those rifles are shooters especially for the price
Oh absolutely, my 6.5 consistently shoots past 1000yds. This savage is a 308 though but i was also using cheaper hunting ammo in this video but I bet if I used better ammo or hand loaded for it that i could tighten it up almost if not as good as my 6.5. My 6.5 is set up completely different as well tits my match gun for competition.
Doing the same with my 6.5 Grendel and 5.56. Looking at the trajectory chart, the spread from 0-300 is best with the 200 yard zero with both platforms.
For a hunting rifle I always use the 50/200 zero and for most common rifles/calibers it's usually within an inch or two which is minute of deer all day long
I shoot one shot at 33 yards. I then correct for elevation windage X 3. That puts you really close at 100. I've sighted in numerous rifles with 4 shots. There is also no need to shoot 3 shot groups at 50. One shot and adjust X 2 should do it.
I shoot the group because I like to take the average in case I threw any shots off which u can see I did with one out of the 3. Gives me more confidence the rifle is shooting on for when the time comes I need to shoot an a deer with it.
On a 3 to 12 power scope. If there is a small error from 3 power to 12 power, you really need to sight in with scope on 12 power. So your distant shots are more accurate and the error at close range is Less important.
Pretty cool. I need to wrap my mind around adjustments after with MOA. I am guessing that if I put it in my calculator like that I should get data for adjustments.
Yes a ballistic calculator is a good place to start. Just start learning about how ballistics and all the other factors play in. Make sure u input all ur data in correctly to the calculator cos if u put garbage in you’ll get garbage out.
I just happened across your site and it was just a nice affirmation to what I have done since young with a 50yd zero. I have my 740 Woodsmaster (yeah, Im an old guy!) that is actually a nail puncher in .308 with the factory scope that has the the cross/post reticle which is fun to shoot. The 50/200 has always done well with my shooting as it has little rise or drop in 0-200 (average possible shooting/hunting) plus a little extra. And thank you for the update on the ammo! I still have a few old match rounds that work really well but definitely need more new gun food for it. The coefficient on the new is really good!! Again, great down to earth video and info my friend. Stay safe and well.
I zeroed my 24" ar 10 at 200 yrds, my 16" at 100 yrds. The scope on my 24", every full reticle above and below center is exactly 100 yrds, drop down 5 is exactly 700 yrds. 4" target 700 yrds all day
Great vid...lots of people don't have access to longer ranges...25/300 or 50/200 is a decent start point for sure...Army still does 25/300 for 556 unless it changed in last few years at Benning I've always found the Axis (I have '06) to be hunt accurate (1.5 MOA or so) with a variety of loads, so really nice shooting buddy!!
Could anybody please tell me what shorter distance to zero at for 100, asking because I dont have access to a 100 yard range for zeroing. But most of my shooting will be done between 60 and 150m.
@benjaminwilley3578 if you’re mostly shooting 60-150yds you can zero at 50 and you’ll be within an inch or so of your point of aim anywhere from 50-200yds.
Lots of variables here , shot it prone with no fore end hold letting the recoil ride.Then on a tripod holding the rifle like it would usually be shot if being tascoed in the eye isn't the goal. Scope is a long way up from the barrel which never helps. Not being detrimental to your video as I'll try your advice. I have a light barreled .223 savage axis in a boyds featherweight stock that will shoot inch and three quarter groups at 200m and three inch at 300m with a weaver scope that looks a lot like the one on your gun, might be different magnification. Axis cost less than the three magazines for my tikka and shoots nearly as well. We call them a rest gun as they're too heavy to shoot freehand, unsure that makes a precision rifle though. Good video, hope it goes well hunting deer.
Most my rifles have bipods sight in at 50 when it's on paper put rest under stock shoot reaim to center on target look threw scope turn it too the bullet hole usually use 3or4 rounds and it's done then chk all distances I intend to shoot hope this helps
Check the action screw torque on your rifle. with the groups you are throwing at 50 yards, it seems to be off a little bit. Usually 40-65in/lbs. I check my rifles by shooting groups changing the torque by 5in/lbs every group until I find out what the rifle likes.
Yea but that fine tuning this does help to get it there! But there is some adjustments needed after the 50 yard group! Long range shooters should always zero their rifles at 200 yards. I really like your newer 6.8 Western videos ya have out, that new barrel you have is rockin
Sure does! My Long range target gun I like the zero at 100 yds and have the dials. So far taken that thing out to 1000 yds hoping to get a 1 mile milk jug challenge under my belt next summer :)
Long range shooters should not zero their rifle at 200 yards. I shoot both PRS and NRL and I don't know a single individual that zeros at 200 yards. Hunters may often zero at 200, if that is what you mean.
A 50yd zero is close at 200, but it is not a 200yd zero. A small amount of error at 50 is huge at 200. It also depends on the independent ballistics of the cartridge. Always, always, always confirm your zero at 200 if you’re doing a 50yd zero. It’s also worth noting that if you’ve got a rifle shooting in that 2700-3000fps range (.308, 6.5cm, 7mm-08, etc.), it’s worth buying optics that have adjustable MRAD turrets and running a 100yd zero so you can use the minus 2 dial method. Basically you take two off of your distance. 300yds equals 1mrad. 400yds equals 2mrad, etc.
Niko I liked the video. Your equipment selection looks solid. Mat, bags, range finder and BOG pod. I wonder why you didn’t use the clamp on the BOG pod. It would have lowered some of the felt recoil. Also the rifle is plenty precise. With a target scope you could easily take that out much further. IE check out XRing channel. Recoil management and shooter fatigue is real and when you need a solid zero it can take time to refine. Totally worth the extra practice to hit that once in a lifetime buck! Don’t forget to lock tight those stock and scope screws with the heavy recoil.Side note even better then the G1 BC of those federal Fusions is the terminal performance. They preform on game animals similarly to bonded bullets. Good expansion and penetration. All around nice setup.
Of course they will. But for hunting uses for the distances I usually hunt (under 300yds) they’re not going to be very significant. I pay a lot more attention to those variables when I’m Shooting competition PRS or target both rimfire & high power.
The standard high power rifle zero is 100 yards for good reason. That zero will relate to fraction-less sight adjustment scaled in MOA , as well as be relatively accurate as a no-wind beginning placeholder for what ever hold or sight adjustment is needed for actual distance and conditions target appears. Why not 50 yards? 50 yards does not reveal shooter error from sight misalignment, or poor trigger control and thus precludes proper shooter/target analysis to understand what sight adjustment or marksmanship correction is needed for the zero to be appraised as being good. Bottom-line zero to 100 yards and from chronographed velocity make a range card for bullet drop compensation needed for 100 yard distance increments. That’s it. Then practice at 100 yards to refine the zero as marksmanship skill develops from a muscularly relaxed position and smooth trigger control. Most important to good zeroing will be a understanding for perfect natural point of aim adjustment. Creds: Military Rifle Instructor assisting the USAMU deliver SDM, TTT, and SAFS Training.
I would have thought you’d know better given the credentials you’ve stated because the concept of MPBR is also taught in the military and it’s what this video is based off. This rifle is a 50/200 yd zero for the purpose of hunting in the typical ranges of engagement for my use. I also shoot competitive long range matches those rifles are set up differently and are zeroed at 100. Different use than hunting, different zero. I think you might not have watched the whole video or listened to the explanation.
Yikes 3 rounds at 50 yards...first shot my cross hairs are going to the bullet hole then a tad up, then adjusting. When its where I want Ill shoot 3 just as a double check and make a very tiny adjustment at the 200 yards after the 50 yards, I go to 60 yards just a tad further, then when everything is dialed I get home and put my schims in and zero the dials. People do things differently as long as the outcome is the same thats all that matters but I dont shoot that many rounds that close just enough to get me where I need. Im not saying what you're doing is wrong you know what you're doing and are a good shot. Just saying that's how I do it, key for me is getting a good solid rest that can lock your rifle in and not have it move when adjusting the cross hairs just at the beginning. Good informative videos buddy
Thanks man. Yeah, I shot a 3 rd group to take the average here just to make sure I didn’t flinch or throw a shot off if I would’ve done the 1 shot method plus I needed it to be about 0.30” high of crosshairs at 50yds so a small grouping helps achieve that more accurately! I also do the 1 shot method sometimes as you’ve described.
2 inches high at 100 yards with 30/06, 308, 270, 243, is what it takes for a 200 yard zero. 3 inches hi at 100 does the trick at 300. Easier done at 30 yards sighting in dead on for 300 because it takes the wind out of the equation.
Maybe it's because my rifle is old? Like over 100 years old? lol. I have used a sporterized (Flip up sights milled off, tapped for scope) 1917 Enfield 30.06 for many years that I cleaned the cosmoline off of when I got it. I use fairly hot hand loads at @ 2990fps (groups grow if over 3k) with a 165 gr bullet, and it shoots sub-minute groups after I had the barrel crowned. That .3" difference he shows has me scratching my head. I am sighted in on 100 yds. At 50, it's 2" high. At 300 yds, it's 4" low, so I know that I can put the crosshairs pretty much anywhere on my game at 300 yds or less. Now.. My 50BMG is a different story. I don't know the exact measurement, but a 50mm scope on top of a picatinny rail, there's a lot of space between center of barrel and center of scope. I sighted it in at 50 yds when I first got it. Backed to 100yds and it was over 8" high. We've been clearing brush and trees and I may get to try 200 yds soon. Tough to find places to shoot the 50.
For the people that don’t want to watch the video and want to tap away at the keyboard for no reason:
He was zeroing their rifle for 200 yards but used 50 yards as a starting point, using ballistics calculations, which can be found using various apps or website by in putting the data that’s published on the box.
From there the man’s trued up his zero at the desired range. Assuming that he had the true velocity this is what everyone with any sort of sense does.
But I guess the YT comment section is just cracked on over complicating things that are not.
Hopefully he pins this or makes another video explaining this.
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Figures a non YT blaming YT people, find a new scapegoat dude
I really am not a an of anything except a 100yd zero. I understand the idea that a 200yd zero allows a 0-300 dead hold and it should land in the kill zone regardless of the distance. However coma pause… This only works in open spaces where there’s nothing blocking the path of the bullet. If you have to thread the needle through a 6” hole at 75-100yd that means you have to hold under to get pinpoint accuracy. Instead, any time you have a 100yd zero everything is always a hold over. Shots at 40yd, 140, 240, 340, it’s always held over.
@soonerfrac4611 what animal.are you shooting that you can't hit througha 6" circle with a 200yd zero? That literally puts you at 1-1.5" high at 100yds with most calibers. And why are you shooting at an animal that you have no other shot but to "thread the needle?" That seems kinda reckless.
@
Interestingly enough, I saw this at extreme close range. The shot was inside 15yds with a Marlin 30-30, shot clipped the deers breastbone and never entered the body cavity, sent a shard up through the aorta. Went 60yds without a drop of blood anywhere, most blood I’ve ever seen inside an animal.
But, I didn’t learn it from hunting 4 legged animals but 2. When making a precision shot that must be inside a 1” circle or less, 6” rise and fall of a max point blank zero isn’t good enough.
You are the only one on here that makes sense. Everyone wants to buy a buget rifle and shoot long distance or compare it to an expensive rifle. GOOD VIDEO.
I mean the price of a rife don't matter if it's a appropriate caliber it's gonna go long distance regardless. I think the ammo matter more than the price of the gun good ammo with give u good consistency T long ranges I've seen cheap rifles run better or just as good as expensive one's
@mikewest9033 exactly 👍 however there IS a difference in overall quality but the difference in the results are pretty minute, so unless ur shooting competitively I’d say no point in getting expensive ones. Hunting, anything that shoots will basically go u just gotta be a decent shot lol
Yet, those cheap rifles can hold their own in those videos I've seen.
@@GunGuy258 you are right about that I have several savages axis and rugers, all of them shoot very accurate.
It was great to hear you mention the possible limitations of human, gun and environment. Well done.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed the video! 🤙🤙
Well explained. Master level rifleman here, you did a great job describing each step. You will serve many rookie shooters well. Thanks for that lesson audit! Thanks for also consulting the Ballistics App(s) so that beginners won’t be reluctant to try this method. Great job demystifying this concept! Peace Be The Journey, brown brother!
I have Savage 110 fcp LE in 308 with a very heavy
barel. It likes the fusion 165gr ammo. I Zero at 200yds. At 200yds she will put 5 shots on top of each other, ( if I do my job ) . I never dreamed that Savage made a rifrel that shot this well. THANKS TO THE PEOPLE AT SAVAGE, YOU HAVE MADE ME A TRUE BELIVER IN YOUR PRODUCT.
I like the method you have shown in this video. I'm kinda old school when it comes to sighting in hunting rifles but your method did work well for me to teach my nephew how to sight in an easier way than I do it. He has a budget 308 and a tight budget for ammo so it worked great for him. Me on the other hand I'm gonna be hard headed and stick with the "get it close and move it to 100 " method. Good video thanks for the lesson.
I use the same method when sighting for 100 too. Plenty ways to skin a cat! Thanks for watching 🤙🤙
Shoot it at 200 yards, so you know where the bullets will land at that distance. Take one shot, rest a few minutes, and do A five shit group. Do this in still air from a cold bore.
I do the same and zero at 100. That said, 1/3" from 50 to 200 is negligible when hunting
at times I only have 50 yd range and No outside site. Thanks for a great step by step video.
Good video for helping us out, a lot of times we don't have access to the longer distance. Appreciate your time explaining it to us.
Glad you enjoyed the video thanks for watching!
I very much enjoyed your video Niko , good solid advice.. And you kept the veiwers attention with your delivery - thanks for not putting loud , distracting Rock music in your video too!
Thanks Bob glad you enjoyed the video! Appreciate the kind words!
Yes the ballistics calculator is great. I usually site in right on at 20 yards and then I am 4” to 6” high at 100 yards and couple 2” high at 200 yards and close to zero at 300 yards with calibers .270 and up. Good video and tip!
Good stuff! Thanks for watching! 🙌
4 to 6 inches is the difference between dead and injured deer. High back or shoulder is not fatal.
Got to be careful with those Mid-range shots on game with that trajectory.. I did much the same many years ago but found my hits were always at the top part of the Deer or Moose. I did lower my Zero down some , 1.7" high at 100 yards with most non-magnum cartridges will put you dead on at 200 yds , so you can just settle the crosshairs and squeese the trigger!
@@km6731 that's why you remember that. My brother's 300 win mag is set to shoot 6 or 8 high at 100. Because the elk and deer he kills are usually 4 to 500 yards. He's old now, and it's getting heavy, but they still always drop in a pile. Knocks them dead.
That’s why it’s important to set ur zero to what ranges you’ll typically be shooting from! For the distances I hunt at the 50/200 works perfectly. But if ur doing longer distances it’ll depend. Fundamentals stay the same. Know ur ballistics and ur target game! 😎
Great job explaining this method 😊
I know a lot of people get confused when I tell them..
16 clicks equals one inch at 25
8 clicks equals one inch at 50
4 clicks equals one inch at 100
2 clicks equals one inch at 200
Provided the value is 1/4 MOA or one click equals 1/4 at 100 yards 😊
That being said.. I didn't figure that out until hunting and shooting for ten years! My father was the one who put a paper plate at thirty yards and said.. if you can hit it.. you're good to go!
When my brother completed his many tours in the Marine Corps.. he straightened me out and we actually spent numerous days at the range prior to going afield 😊
That being said.. this year was the first time that I cleanly missed a buck! Didn't take branches into the equation!!!
I will next time 😮
I have been shooting 50+ years, always with iron sights. Unfortunately, age has caught up with me. I had every intention of buying an Axis .308 at the beginning of the year, to go hunting with my son who has an AR in .308. Then I went to a gun show and found a beautiful sporterized K98k rebarreled in 7mm Mauser with a 25 year old Leupold M8 6X scope that shoots 1.5" groups at 100 yards for about the same price. I guess we will see if either round is more effective. Good video with good information and explanation.
Awesome, Thanks for watching glad you enjoyed the video!
Like the 7 better cartridge
That scope still has full warranty. Can’t go wrong buying a Leupold of any age!
Get the Mauser
@@CZ49 I did
Especially thank you for the ballistics information a lot of people don't look it up and don't understand how it makes a difference former bravo 4 here.
Well presented point of view!! IMO, a variation p.o.v. on max point blank range, but also worthy. I've been a shooter for 65+ years. Mostly hunting/ "plinking". It is difficult to envision, identify, rectify, and prepare for the MYRIAD of variables involved in shooting. Some people choose the MANIC Long Range Perfection route, and theoretically, that is what we wish for, and work toward. However, I'm simply lazy, and "get'er done is good enough" suits me. Locally, I have been the "go to" guy for advice/ assistance, up to the proliferation of KEYBOARD WARRIORS. Now, I'm an old school dinousaur!!LOL!! But my point( and possibly/ probably your point) is that the more people feel confident, and enjoy shooting sports, the bigger it will grow/ the better off the whole system will be. TY.
Sounds like we’ve got a similar point of view, thanks for watching!
I have always shot my rifles in at 50 yards when I sight them in. I look at the trajectory for the load I am going to be shooting is and based on that information I know that at 50 yds with an 80 grain bullets it needs to be just about 1/2" high. At 100 it's 2.1"high and has 5" of drop at 400 yards which is my personal limit for taking game. I've been using this method since I was 12 years old on all of my rifles and it's worked great.
Nice video. I have the Exact savage rifle in 6.5 Creedmoor. I wanted the .308 Cabela's wAS OUT OF STOCK. I REALLY LIKE THE 6.5. CREEDMOOR. My only complain is the cost of the 6.5 Creedmoor ammo. It very good shooting and very Reliable. Thanks agin for your video.
6.5 creed is a great round good choice on that, if I could redo I’d have gotten the 6.5! What ammo are u shooting for it? Federal fusion 6.5 seemed to work well for my other gun
honestly, I wouldn't mind a longer video, especially since the info shared here was really helpful. keep it coming!
Like the video man. I bought the axis in 308 myself just for a cheap hunting rifle. It had me very frustrated at first. I filled the foregrip with resin, filled the but stock with silicone, and put a decent bushnell on it (had an old brokenone laying around and got it warranted). It's no "tack driver" but it's definitely a totally different rifle now.
Thanks man. Yeah she def gets the job done. My buddy did something similar to what you did with his too, reinforced the stock too with resin.
well dang someone finally caught on ..... we've been doing this for over 45 years way back in the late 70's there was a hunting rag called Petersons hunting that touched on this little known secret and monthly put out dope info for different calibers and touched on where a bullet crossed zero for 100 or 2 or 300 yds. some were as close ae 37 yds. best to test at distance when zeroed
Yup, MPBR is a pretty clear cut concept. I really like the 50/200 zero for the 308
I always went to the magazine stands and read Jack O'Connor. Outdoor Life
Still a great pump gun even though it is mostly plastic, ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxh4su9YgU1tWmjikirWcKJbjsFLEU62Bc but with care it will last a long time. It would be neat if Crosman would make a commemorative version of this with real wood stock, but of course it would weigh more and cost more, but hey, it would be cool. The included scope is more of a toy, but it does work for backyard plinking. I prefer to use pellets for greater accuracy, but BBs are just as good for plinking. This is not a Red Ryder folks; fully pumped it is 3 times the power of a Red Ryder and can be dangerous if not handled properly. Be safe out there.
WTH are you commenting on?
Everything I've used(30-06, 308, 243, 223 and 300mag) I sight in 1.5-2 inches high at 100 and it's dead on at 200
Speer Gold Dot has a higher BC and is made alongside the fusion. Thier identical in construction being both bonded, VLD style with a rebated Boat tail. It has turned my favorite hunting rifle into a Lazer. 3" group at 300 yards off sticks.
Nice! 🤙🤙🤙
Watched the whole thing. Nice to see a fresh new face doing gun/bullet teaching video.
Thanks for watching! 🤙🤙
Bought a savage axis 1 in 308 last year. Did not have the accu-trigger. Installed mcarbo trigger kit. Went from 4.5 to 1.5 pounds. Groups Went from 5-6 inches at 100 to 1-2 with scope that came on it. Really good, cheap rifles with an inexpensive upgrade. Love the vid my man.
Heard rly good things about that mcarbo trigger upgrade, I really should get on that. Thanks for watching!
Very knowledgeable young man! For years most every hunter I know zero at 50 for a 200 zero. You will have a 2 to 3 in out to 250 or 300. To be honest every hunter in woods/thickets know you will get 99% at less than 100. Now you also will not carry a shooting rest or be on your belly you will be hand holding and sitting or standing with a tree nearby. Bow hunters are less than 50. So where on your scope do you aim with if less than the 200. Well you are good from 50 to 500 to hit that shoulder. Even if zeroed at 100 you are good. But look at some ballistic apps and you will use marks on reticles that would be used at 200 or 300 if closer than 100 and yes you can miss or just wound at 50 or even 30 if you use center of reticle. Also the real skill is the hand hold with sling around arm. Remember you will have no 4 wheeler close by so you will be dragging for a couple 100 yds. also so no chair, no tripod to carry in and out. A 300 yd shot means more drag time with a rifle on your shoulder and maybe a backpack in the dark of night. So much for the youtubers with bench rests, you have to learn hand hold zeroing!!!! Can you do it if not you will miss every time!!!
Totally agree! 💯
Bench rest ok to confirm. All practice after that should be sling hand hold for hunters 🇨🇦 👍
Thank for the video i have the same rifle just got it and was wondering about zeroing at 50 years.
Thanks for watching, yeah a 50yd zero is about the same as a 200yd zero for what I’m shooting here. Make sure u check the ballistics chart for whatever bullet you’re using and compare your MPBR to whatever ranges you’ll typically shoot at like I’ve explained in the video!
Great video. Clear to understand. Just have to adapt for my needs. Cheers from Australia.
Cheers mate!
I was very impressed with the quality and clear advice in your video. I am a newer gun owner and always have a hard time getting in at 100+ yds. Could you tell me what ballistic calculator you use?. It seems simple and straight forward. I have tried a couple others but they get very confusing. Please keep up the good work with your videos.
I think he used SBC Light. Hope that helps.
I have a Mossberg Patriot in .308. after watching this video I realize I've got about the same quality of rifle. Thanks for posting. I;m not having much luck with 150 gr ammo as there is alot of muzzle rise. I may try a 165 gr
Good info. Makes a lot of sense. Kinda glad it wasn't just 5 minutes long
Haha thanks 🤙🤙
Another awesome video. I get the sense that we are much alike. Keep on keepin on, twin brother from another mother.
Thanks man cheers! 🙌
To know what height you bullet will be at various distances, you will need to know your distance from the center of the bore to center of your optic. This distance is very important! I suggest you use Redfield sight-in targets. The thick bars on the vertical and horizontal are used to place your rifles crosshairs on exactly the same spot. There should be bar exposed on both vertical and horizontal. You center the crosshairs in all 4 directions every shot. You can't do that shooting at a circle. Two hundred yards isn't exactly long distance but if you want some excellent accuracy and excellent bullet performance, try Federal's Terminal Ascent or even better their Swift Scirocco II loadings. The Fusion isn't bad at all, but those two are better. Prices will be relatively the same.
Theres a guy on youtube i seen scrolling through random videos, he hit a target at 1000 yds with the savage axis 2 with 6.5 cr, those rifles are shooters especially for the price
Oh absolutely, my 6.5 consistently shoots past 1000yds. This savage is a 308 though but i was also using cheaper hunting ammo in this video but I bet if I used better ammo or hand loaded for it that i could tighten it up almost if not as good as my 6.5. My 6.5 is set up completely different as well tits my match gun for competition.
Yes you are right because there have two vertix angle at going up at 50 meters and going 0 down at 200 meters .
My howa 1500 is a sporter barrel with a wood stock 200 yards all day mate 308s a powerful round 6.5 is great as well
Doing the same with my 6.5 Grendel and 5.56. Looking at the trajectory chart, the spread from 0-300 is best with the 200 yard zero with both platforms.
For a hunting rifle I always use the 50/200 zero and for most common rifles/calibers it's usually within an inch or two which is minute of deer all day long
I shoot one shot at 33 yards. I then correct for elevation windage X 3. That puts you really close at 100. I've sighted in numerous rifles with 4 shots. There is also no need to shoot 3 shot groups at 50. One shot and adjust X 2 should do it.
I shoot the group because I like to take the average in case I threw any shots off which u can see I did with one out of the 3. Gives me more confidence the rifle is shooting on for when the time comes I need to shoot an a deer with it.
I met people similar rifle that outperform precision riffles with $500 average rifle. It depends getting to know your rifle.
Agreed. Marksmanship comes before fine tuning your gear for sure.
Makes sense,in Army we zeroed our 16's at 25 yrds and dead on at 100 yrds. Double that would be zeroed at 50, dead on at 200.
You mean dead on at 300 meters.
On a 3 to 12 power scope. If there is a small error from 3 power to 12 power, you really need to sight in with scope on 12 power. So your distant shots are more accurate and the error at close range is Less important.
Pretty cool. I need to wrap my mind around adjustments after with MOA. I am guessing that if I put it in my calculator like that I should get data for adjustments.
Yes a ballistic calculator is a good place to start. Just start learning about how ballistics and all the other factors play in. Make sure u input all ur data in correctly to the calculator cos if u put garbage in you’ll get garbage out.
The calculator is called SBU Ballistics
Nice video. Do you enjoy having your scope mounted so high?
I zero mine at 25yds , at an inch high , I am able to drop it in at up to 400yds , with my 270 as well as my 30-06.I use 160gr barnesx
Great video... just subscribed. Recently picked up a Ruger American Ranch and looking at different ways to zero.
Thanks for subbing. My buddy shoots a ruger American range, great gun!
I just happened across your site and it was just a nice affirmation to what I have done since young with a 50yd zero. I have my 740 Woodsmaster (yeah, Im an old guy!) that is actually a nail puncher in .308 with the factory scope that has the the cross/post reticle which is fun to shoot. The 50/200 has always done well with my shooting as it has little rise or drop in 0-200 (average possible shooting/hunting) plus a little extra. And thank you for the update on the ammo! I still have a few old match rounds that work really well but definitely need more new gun food for it. The coefficient on the new is really good!! Again, great down to earth video and info my friend. Stay safe and well.
Awesome thanks for watchign I hope you enjoy the rest of the content on the channel as well!
Facts. I zero at 25 yards which for a .270 zeros me at 200 yards. @ 100 yards, it's 1.75" high.
Either way, as long as I do my job, it's a dead deer.
I really like your video and shot rifles all my life but never even thought of this!! Fantastic idea!! Thanks do much, i subscribed to ya!!!
Awesome shooting Sir . I will try this tomorrow
Awesome let me know how it goes!
I zeroed my 24" ar 10 at 200 yrds, my 16" at 100 yrds. The scope on my 24", every full reticle above and below center is exactly 100 yrds, drop down 5 is exactly 700 yrds. 4" target 700 yrds all day
Great vid...lots of people don't have access to longer ranges...25/300 or 50/200 is a decent start point for sure...Army still does 25/300 for 556 unless it changed in last few years at Benning
I've always found the Axis (I have '06) to be hunt accurate (1.5 MOA or so) with a variety of loads, so really nice shooting buddy!!
Thanks man appreciate it! Glad you enjoyed the video! 🤙🤙
Could anybody please tell me what shorter distance to zero at for 100, asking because I dont have access to a 100 yard range for zeroing. But most of my shooting will be done between 60 and 150m.
@benjaminwilley3578 if you’re mostly shooting 60-150yds you can zero at 50 and you’ll be within an inch or so of your point of aim anywhere from 50-200yds.
Very well done for new shooters. No bs!
a good hasty sling setup will add another stabilization factor👍
I loop my arm through the sling for extra stabilization especially from offhand or less than ideal positions
I've seen folks shoot 1/2" 5-shot groups at 100 with those rifles. best $300 ever spent
@@OutdoorsAnonymous I learned that technique at an Appleseed course. It works well.
Yup works very well!
He's on point.
Lots of variables here , shot it prone with no fore end hold letting the recoil ride.Then on a tripod holding the rifle like it would usually be shot if being tascoed in the eye isn't the goal. Scope is a long way up from the barrel which never helps. Not being detrimental to your video as I'll try your advice. I have a light barreled .223 savage axis in a boyds featherweight stock that will shoot inch and three quarter groups at 200m and three inch at 300m with a weaver scope that looks a lot like the one on your gun, might be different magnification. Axis cost less than the three magazines for my tikka and shoots nearly as well. We call them a rest gun as they're too heavy to shoot freehand, unsure that makes a precision rifle though. Good video, hope it goes well hunting deer.
Great job!! I always check after a lengthy trip
💯 thanks for watching!
The only thing I'd certainly change is to lower those mounts. Get closer to the bore for more accurate groups.
Most my rifles have bipods sight in at 50 when it's on paper put rest under stock shoot reaim to center on target look threw scope turn it too the bullet hole usually use 3or4 rounds and it's done then chk all distances I intend to shoot hope this helps
Check the action screw torque on your rifle. with the groups you are throwing at 50 yards, it seems to be off a little bit. Usually 40-65in/lbs. I check my rifles by shooting groups changing the torque by 5in/lbs every group until I find out what the rifle likes.
Yes good call, planning on upgrading the glass and rings on it pretty soon as well I’ll get it all tightened up then.
What is this action screw?
@@randy4134 the screws that hold the action into the stock.
Nicely done very well explained thanks for sharing keep the cameras rolling from Florida
Thank you for watching!
Yea but that fine tuning this does help to get it there! But there is some adjustments needed after the 50 yard group! Long range shooters should always zero their rifles at 200 yards. I really like your newer 6.8 Western videos ya have out, that new barrel you have is rockin
Sure does! My Long range target gun I like the zero at 100 yds and have the dials. So far taken that thing out to 1000 yds hoping to get a 1 mile milk jug challenge under my belt next summer :)
Long range shooters should not zero their rifle at 200 yards. I shoot both PRS and NRL and I don't know a single individual that zeros at 200 yards. Hunters may often zero at 200, if that is what you mean.
I was thinkin’ 35yds / 300 yds for my K&M bullpup .308… tactical rifle for close range targets yet versatile to pick something off at a distance.
A 50yd zero is close at 200, but it is not a 200yd zero. A small amount of error at 50 is huge at 200. It also depends on the independent ballistics of the cartridge. Always, always, always confirm your zero at 200 if you’re doing a 50yd zero. It’s also worth noting that if you’ve got a rifle shooting in that 2700-3000fps range (.308, 6.5cm, 7mm-08, etc.), it’s worth buying optics that have adjustable MRAD turrets and running a 100yd zero so you can use the minus 2 dial method. Basically you take two off of your distance. 300yds equals 1mrad. 400yds equals 2mrad, etc.
💯💯💯
Awesome thanks man !! I understand now!!!
MPBR is a 🔑 concept! Remember to customize it for YOUR uses. Thanks for watching! 🤙🤙
Niko I liked the video. Your equipment selection looks solid. Mat, bags, range finder and BOG pod. I wonder why you didn’t use the clamp on the BOG pod. It would have lowered some of the felt recoil. Also the rifle is plenty precise. With a target scope you could easily take that out much further. IE check out XRing channel. Recoil management and shooter fatigue is real and when you need a solid zero it can take time to refine. Totally worth the extra practice to hit that once in a lifetime buck! Don’t forget to lock tight those stock and scope screws with the heavy recoil.Side note even better then the G1 BC of those federal Fusions is the terminal performance. They preform on game animals similarly to bonded bullets. Good expansion and penetration. All around nice setup.
Great video, new subscriber love your video!! Great info thanks!!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the video
Practical advice; well appreciated. 👍
Good stuff, thanks for the knowledge! 🍻
Thanks for watching, cheers!
I live in wesr virginia..that range is perfect
Good stuff! Thanks for watching 🤙🤙
Good points made
Subscribed
Thanks
I watched your video on 22lr 25 yd zero.
Awesome thank you for watching!
Thank you for you instructions, Sir
Thanks for watching cheers!
Solid information!
Thanks! 🤙🤙
I really appreciate this video. Thank you
Interesting. I get @300yd zero by zeroing at 36yards. With my ruger .308 I’ll try it out
What is the best ballistics calculator for our iPhones? Thanks great video!
I’m using SBC Pro ballistic calculator from the App Store. Thanks for watching!
I set my left and right in at 25yrds. Then up and down at 100yrds. Shooting blue grouse heads off with 300 win mag.
Good advice, but your windage was off to the left too......
Going for point blank range this makes a max. point blank range using 6 inches as the target, just over 250 yards which is pretty good.
So...does altitude, barrel length and ambient temperature change your ballistics? 😊
Of course they will. But for hunting uses for the distances I usually hunt (under 300yds) they’re not going to be very significant.
I pay a lot more attention to those variables when I’m Shooting competition PRS or target both rimfire & high power.
I zero mine for 200 yards at 3/4 inch high@75 yards.220 Swift 50 and 52 gr. Bullets.
At 50 yds you can be dead on but at 200 it could be off due to unaligned scope rings or sometimes miss aligned mounting. Always ck both.
Yes, just like what’s shown in the end of the video confirm it at 200.
Awesome video!
The standard high power rifle zero is 100 yards for good reason. That zero will relate to fraction-less sight adjustment scaled in MOA , as well as be relatively accurate as a no-wind beginning placeholder for what ever hold or sight adjustment is needed for actual distance and conditions target appears. Why not 50 yards? 50 yards does not reveal shooter error from sight misalignment, or poor trigger control and thus precludes proper shooter/target analysis to understand what sight adjustment or marksmanship correction is needed for the zero to be appraised as being good. Bottom-line zero to 100 yards and from chronographed velocity make a range card for bullet drop compensation needed for 100 yard distance increments. That’s it. Then practice at 100 yards to refine the zero as marksmanship skill develops from a muscularly relaxed position and smooth trigger control. Most important to good zeroing will be a understanding for perfect natural point of aim adjustment. Creds: Military Rifle Instructor assisting the USAMU deliver SDM, TTT, and SAFS Training.
I would have thought you’d know better given the credentials you’ve stated because the concept of MPBR is also taught in the military and it’s what this video is based off. This rifle is a 50/200 yd zero for the purpose of hunting in the typical ranges of engagement for my use.
I also shoot competitive long range matches those rifles are set up differently and are zeroed at 100. Different use than hunting, different zero.
I think you might not have watched the whole video or listened to the explanation.
I see you’ve edited your comment a bit, appreciate you removing the first bit of the original comment.
Buy a Boyd’s at one fully adjustable stock , I put thumbhole stock on 5 of my rifles
Can you do this on 6.5 PRC
I don’t have a 6.5 prc sorry but check on a ballistic calculator and do what I did in the video.
Great video thank you
Thanks glad you enjoyed it!
Yikes 3 rounds at 50 yards...first shot my cross hairs are going to the bullet hole then a tad up, then adjusting. When its where I want Ill shoot 3 just as a double check and make a very tiny adjustment at the 200 yards after the 50 yards, I go to 60 yards just a tad further, then when everything is dialed I get home and put my schims in and zero the dials. People do things differently as long as the outcome is the same thats all that matters but I dont shoot that many rounds that close just enough to get me where I need. Im not saying what you're doing is wrong you know what you're doing and are a good shot. Just saying that's how I do it, key for me is getting a good solid rest that can lock your rifle in and not have it move when adjusting the cross hairs just at the beginning. Good informative videos buddy
Thanks man. Yeah, I shot a 3 rd group to take the average here just to make sure I didn’t flinch or throw a shot off if I would’ve done the 1 shot method plus I needed it to be about 0.30” high of crosshairs at 50yds so a small grouping helps achieve that more accurately! I also do the 1 shot method sometimes as you’ve described.
Great video
I mostly sight in for 200 + yd zero depending on load. So not higher than 2.5" high at the shorter range. Work out come ups from there.
A 308 is good for 200 yards and under I have one
I’m wondering if there is a good but cheap or free calculator that you might suggest
con cual bala agrupa mas compañero?
2 inches high at 100 yards with 30/06, 308, 270, 243, is what it takes for a 200 yard zero. 3 inches hi at 100 does the trick at 300. Easier done at 30 yards sighting in dead on for 300 because it takes the wind out of the equation.
Dude I have 3 axis rifles,from bipod it shoots as good as my 700's do.esp. the 6.5 Creedmoor and 243.
Great video. This helps alot thanks
Thanks bro yea it makes zeroing for 200 a lot easier glad you liked it!
Excellent! Ty much.
Glad you enjoyed the video thanks for watching 🤙🤙
Man thats some high scope ring mounts why u not get some shorter ones
Good point
Ya trajectory allows that
20/200 with my270
My dad trained in the army and taught me that too
Maybe it's because my rifle is old? Like over 100 years old? lol. I have used a sporterized (Flip up sights milled off, tapped for scope) 1917 Enfield 30.06 for many years that I cleaned the cosmoline off of when I got it. I use fairly hot hand loads at @ 2990fps (groups grow if over 3k) with a 165 gr bullet, and it shoots sub-minute groups after I had the barrel crowned. That .3" difference he shows has me scratching my head. I am sighted in on 100 yds. At 50, it's 2" high. At 300 yds, it's 4" low, so I know that I can put the crosshairs pretty much anywhere on my game at 300 yds or less. Now.. My 50BMG is a different story. I don't know the exact measurement, but a 50mm scope on top of a picatinny rail, there's a lot of space between center of barrel and center of scope. I sighted it in at 50 yds when I first got it. Backed to 100yds and it was over 8" high. We've been clearing brush and trees and I may get to try 200 yds soon. Tough to find places to shoot the 50.