Exactly the sort of tutorial and set up I been sort of trying with my 12mp phone (nice textures, but messy meshes).. so, Just invested into ordering a 36mp Nikon D800. Really need a professional camera to get finer details in a timely manner. For me it is about mesh quality for printing a prototype of my smaller sculptures into larger models. Thanks for all your inspiring videos and kind sharing of techniques. Not sure if a good polarizing filter will help with color reflections as it does for light flares. Blessings
You could save yourself a lot of trouble by getting a black background, and a felt cloth for your table under the object, as well as a ring flash with polarising film cut to size for the ring flash, and a polariser on the lens to cut out the reflections from the flash (test on a reflective object), and shoot in a room without a lot of ambient light, esp if you want to retain the actual colours. A passport colour checker can help there as well. Masking and deleting the unneeded points before meshing helps.
Hi there! Thanks a lot for your great tutorials, they really help me out a lot. I have a few questions though, if you would be so kind to lighten me up about them as well: - In other tutorials (and you also confirmed that in one of the comments below), you said that it was not a problem that the object was not entirely in the frame at all times. I suppose it means it is not a big deal if some parts of the objet are a bit blurry? Indeed, I have no macro lens, which kind of forces me to use quite a long focal length (105mm) to close up on the object. The result of that is that the edges of the object are a bit blurry. - Which gets me to my second question: what focal length do you use, and what kind of lens ? Is it a macro lens? Thank you very much, I must say I'm a beginner in photography and I'm a bit lost with all these parameters!
@@sonicUnison Normally you are moving the camera around the object but if you are using a turntable then you are tricking the software into thinking that you are moving the camera when you are actually rotating the part. The camera can be moved to various positions…in fact, it’s a requirement.
For the base since it's essentially a flat plane you can just straight on high resolution photo capture then uv and project in ortho on those base faces.
Hi and thank You for another tutorial. I have a question: Is it ok to flip, move, rotate scanned object without any worry to take extra sets of pictures ?? Or does this apply only when scanning on solid background maybe :?
If you are going to be masking the background out, then it's not a problem at all. I have another video where I am doing a small trolly and I flip the object. I believe it was in Episode 12.
Not at all. In fact, I have a general rule of thirds. I often break the object into 3 sections and ensure that I have enough overlap. This allows for some high details and you get the overall model reconstructed just fine. I also do throw overall images in there too.
I love these tutorials because they always tell me that Im doing stuff right but yet zephyr throws out 90% of my photos anyways lol I even designed and 3d printed my own turntable to try and get less blurry images as my hand shake a lot I have to actually get really into the settings to get it to accept more pictures.
Remember to get in close and fill the view with the object. Show as little background as possible and take small incremental movements when adjusting the turntable. If you have a tripod, that is best!
@@3Dforensics unironically, as soon as I posted that I actually got my scan to work and accept my photos. I made my lighting really bright and upped the exposure and contrast on my phone too have the object really pop out of of the image so that it was easy to mask in masquerade. I'm not using a tripod I'm just using 3d printed phone stand that I put at different heights. In any case, thanks for the tips.
I don't get how you don't have more clicks and likes. Awesome tutorial, learned a lot!
For. Real.
We'll get him more.
As a beginner with using this technique, I found your tutorial really helpful, informative, and easy to understand. Thanks!
Exactly the sort of tutorial and set up I been sort of trying with my 12mp phone (nice textures, but messy meshes).. so, Just invested into ordering a 36mp Nikon D800. Really need a professional camera to get finer details in a timely manner. For me it is about mesh quality for printing a prototype of my smaller sculptures into larger models. Thanks for all your inspiring videos and kind sharing of techniques. Not sure if a good polarizing filter will help with color reflections as it does for light flares. Blessings
Thank you for sharing! And pick up the food, hehe :)
You could save yourself a lot of trouble by getting a black background, and a felt cloth for your table under the object, as well as a ring flash with polarising film cut to size for the ring flash, and a polariser on the lens to cut out the reflections from the flash (test on a reflective object), and shoot in a room without a lot of ambient light, esp if you want to retain the actual colours. A passport colour checker can help there as well. Masking and deleting the unneeded points before meshing helps.
I agree, black felt would have been helpful but I went with what I had at the time.
100%.
Hi there! Thanks a lot for your great tutorials, they really help me out a lot. I have a few questions though, if you would be so kind to lighten me up about them as well:
- In other tutorials (and you also confirmed that in one of the comments below), you said that it was not a problem that the object was not entirely in the frame at all times. I suppose it means it is not a big deal if some parts of the objet are a bit blurry? Indeed, I have no macro lens, which kind of forces me to use quite a long focal length (105mm) to close up on the object. The result of that is that the edges of the object are a bit blurry.
- Which gets me to my second question: what focal length do you use, and what kind of lens ? Is it a macro lens?
Thank you very much, I must say I'm a beginner in photography and I'm a bit lost with all these parameters!
Does the camera have to maintain a position so the software can compile the model based on its space in 3d?
@@sonicUnison Normally you are moving the camera around the object but if you are using a turntable then you are tricking the software into thinking that you are moving the camera when you are actually rotating the part. The camera can be moved to various positions…in fact, it’s a requirement.
from start to finish, how much labor would you estimate it would take to a single item? 3-4 hours per item?
@@machineheadminot Depends on the complexity of the part but overall about 2 hours.
For the base since it's essentially a flat plane you can just straight on high resolution photo capture then uv and project in ortho on those base faces.
Texture maps, etc.
What's the camera lens you use? Thanks.
Hi and thank You for another tutorial. I have a question: Is it ok to flip, move, rotate scanned object without any worry to take extra sets of pictures ?? Or does this apply only when scanning on solid background maybe :?
If you are going to be masking the background out, then it's not a problem at all. I have another video where I am doing a small trolly and I flip the object. I believe it was in Episode 12.
Which program(s) are you using for cloud point and mesh?
Looks like some photos have the object cropped out of the shot. Is this a problem? Do you need to have the entire object in frame for every shot?
Not at all. In fact, I have a general rule of thirds. I often break the object into 3 sections and ensure that I have enough overlap. This allows for some high details and you get the overall model reconstructed just fine. I also do throw overall images in there too.
I love these tutorials because they always tell me that Im doing stuff right but yet zephyr throws out 90% of my photos anyways lol
I even designed and 3d printed my own turntable to try and get less blurry images as my hand shake a lot
I have to actually get really into the settings to get it to accept more pictures.
Remember to get in close and fill the view with the object. Show as little background as possible and take small incremental movements when adjusting the turntable. If you have a tripod, that is best!
@@3Dforensics unironically, as soon as I posted that I actually got my scan to work and accept my photos. I made my lighting really bright and upped the exposure and contrast on my phone too have the object really pop out of of the image so that it was easy to mask in masquerade.
I'm not using a tripod I'm just using 3d printed phone stand that I put at different heights.
In any case, thanks for the tips.
@@brobpony4792 Glad it worked out and best of luck!