A second issue regarding the Polarization phenomenon is about the Angle we are shooting at a surface. Avoiding extreme angles (like 0 degrees: almost parallel or 90 degrees: looking down at the surface) shall give better results in cross polarizing. There is an exact angle which cancels out almost 100% of reflected light; the angle depends on the material of the reflective surface, i.e. the refractive index of that material. Varnish, oil, water have different indices, so the angle varies.
I can't find it anymore, but someone once had a blog about a capture setup that was very cool. If you use a point source light (small flash bulb) and reflect it off a parabolic mirror, you can get collimated light. I forget all the technical details, but if you have cross polarized collimated light and you know the relative angles between your light and camera, you can then work out the angle of reflection and get a reflection map. It may have used Brewster's angle, I can't remember. I think you can separate metal from dielectric using Brewster's angle.
That sound awesome, did a quick Google using “collimated light reflection map photography parabolic mirror” but I mostly got research papers. Please follow up if you find it again.
Amazing William! I have heard about cross-polarization for textures and 3d models generation for years but I had no idea that there was a pratical and affortable way of doing it. Thank you for your amazing work!
This is such a great presentation of the cross-polarization method for eliminating reflections. I just wanted to mention that Polarization as an optical phenomenon can be exploited only on Non-Metallic surfaces. This means that polarized light can not be fully or partially cancelled when we are dealing with metallic objects. Which are photogrammetry's worst "enemies". That is why we use fine powder sprayed on metallic surfaces to eliminate all metallic reflections. We lose the albedo - which is kind of black-ish anyway on most of metallic surfaces. I'm not sure if there is any other method out there for metallic or semi-metallic objects for photogrammetry/3D scanning. Any ideas are welcome. Again, thanks for your fantastic tutorials, William!
Thanks William, I do photogrammetry and I was looking for a big budget flash, I was interested in the godox but didn't find anywhere a showcase of how much strong it is until you have done it. Thank you very much, now I know that it is the better choice 😀 also for small object you can use a rotation table like the foldio 360 which will automatically rotate and shoot at a predefined angle, in my case I use 10° so 36pics for each circle. it speed up the workflow and makes it so much easier.
Very neat results! I had quite similiar results with a 50 € Tiffen circular polarizer 52mm filter, a 80€ godox flash, a 25 € diffuser and a 20€ sheet of polarized film.
Really nice info William, thanks. Can't wait for the glass approach. I work with plastic bottles, and a couple months ago did try to see if I could use photogrammetry, but PET/HDPE/PP bottles have a lot of problems to overcome. glare, reflection, transparency, repetitive features(or none at all) you name it :D
Great tutorial ... again! It looks like, you will hit the 100k follower barrier soon. Congrats to this in advance. You deserved it. Off-topic question: What benefits registered people will get, when they pay for a membership of your channel? Thank you so much William and please go on!
Just recently started scanning with this setup as well! Gotta say though, the ringflash polarizer you suggest is godsent and I immediately put down an order. I DIY’d it with a polarizer filter and gaffer tape until now but this is much cleaner! I’m interested to hear if you found a workaround to scan ‘multi-layered’ objects.. last week, I scanned a model wearing mesh garments and the results are problematic.
one of the best videos which I have seen lately! your channel is the only one to which I have clicked the notification bell on :D I have been thinking there are sprays which some shoe customizers use to make leather more matt. would a spray help also to get better results on scanning objects?
Hey William massive congratulations on hitting 100K subs! Well deserved, your content is always very useful and your channel is such an inspiration. Is it just me or is there an extra lens in your quiver in the background?
Great video. You explained everything clearly. I am totally new to 3d scan (but not in 3d) and I wanted to ask: Is the Godox flash (or any other similar flash) necessary or even usefull when you want to scan a small stone house? Lets say that you have ideal conditions, no sunlight, because it's an overcast day or because it is early in the morning. Will the light of the flash reach the house from 2-3 meters where you stand and shoot? Is it an overkill? What's your opinion?
Great video! So the best is to cross both filters by 90° which is blocking most of the light when putting both filters on top of each other. Is this correct?
A limitation you didn‘t talk about is the size of the object to scan right? It‘s clearly visible in your photos that the flash light falls off quite rapidly the further away a surface is. The technique / hardware you‘re presenting here wouldn’t work for big objects right? What dimensions would you recommend to use at max?
Of course falloff is something to take into consideration. But it depends on what you're scanning to be honest. I wouldn't scan a house like this. But I've seen people scan entire HUGE rock formations or entire patches of roads with a cross polarized approach. It all depends on what you're scanning and how your shots turn out. It is impossible for me to consider every possible scenario and give you a max dimension, because there really isn't one. It boils down to, try it and see :) It's less of a limitation, and more about understanding how light works, the falloff is the Inverse Square law, which applies to any light.
Just think like this If you are fisicly able to be 1 - 2 meters of the object you want to scan all arround, no matter the size… it can be done… you dont need to cover all the object in the frame…
That makes sense, thanks for your replies! Would it also be somehow possible to shoot some frames without cross polarization from further away (capture the whole object in a frame) just for alignment. And somehow exclude those pictures in Reality Capture for mesh reconstruction and texture baking? or is that non-sense?
@@Zyro_GG If you take photos at long distance, does will not make as detailed textures as the closest ones. Remember the best photogrametry relies on constant light, constant f-stop, and when possible constant distance from the obeject (same focus). In fact constant factor is more important than the quality of your rig. Please see how you can do it in this video: ua-cam.com/video/egJ78oxFaTU/v-deo.html
Great tutorial William! I am putting together this x-polarization setup and I am having difficulty synching the Godox AR400 with my Sony Alpha 7R through the flash synch cable. The flash fires after pressing the camera shutter. Could you provide any info? Thanks in advance.
For just one day, 8/4/22 the Flashpoint version of the Godox flash is on sale at Adorama for $319. It's apparently only available at that price through their email list. That's a great price.
I'm looking forward to your video on reflective objects. I scan sailplanes, which are white, shiny plastic, and it's really difficult scanning them. Only works if the sailplane is really dirty!
This is awesome! Thank you for this One question. Do you know what is the furthest distance for this setup when shooting an object? Would it work on a house outdoors? Again, your videos are the best - thx!
If you have to move closer / further from the subject, do you adjust your exposure? Or do you have your flash on TTL mode or something so it adjusts for you?
I know im already 25, but will you be my father? :D Everybody needs his idol :D I had no one driving my muse, no one supporting me, my mum was angry at me that im all time on PC ( doing 3D since my 13). And turning it off to get me out of home. And dad was beating the shit out of me cuz hes i dont know pathetic? .. Anyway, you are the person i would like to became one day. You are my idol. And thanks to you, my muse is always back. You make a new video, i watched and every second is so packed with information, watching you is like being a Musician student watching Mozart playing and explaining in the process. It gives you the dopamine rush promise, that if you go create with those new learned stuff, youll get rewarded. Thank you, and please dont stop. If people like you ever diss appear from the internet, i think i would continue.. i would give it 2 years and then i would burn out. So, Thank you
This is so brilliant William. Can’t wait for the video you teased, about scanning glassware etc! Btw can you say your last name slower next time - we all need to hear it. I keep saying “fockar” but I think you say “fow-shay”, ie. rhyming with cow slay?
I hope you do something cool with UE5's new metahuman thing. How to light them nicely and maybe some animation tips. (I really like these videos even though I don't even use UE5 myself. The tech is just too cool :D)
Make a row with Cross polarisation and other without but use the flas. Then when you extract the texturas of the 3d model from the two tecnics use photoshop to subtract the albedo map with cross polarisation from the map without… et voi la… magic hapens!
Why isn’t possible to achieve the same result using two polarized lens filter rotated at different angles instead of one in the light and the other in the lens?
Will this also increase flat and straight metal parts, like for example gun parts? Would be interesting to see the Slide of a Pistol scanned with this technique. It would be awesome if Hard Surfaces wouldn´t become wobbly ;-)
I wonder if there's a practical way to take 2 photos at alternate polarisation and then subtract the difference. You can get a polarised filter and rotate it 90° but keeping the camera in the same place and repeating it enough times to get a scan is insanely impractical
Yes. This is how professional light stage scanning setups work. For a static object/prop, you can do this manually as long as the light source and camera are not moved at all. A sample of the result (on a face using a high speed professional light stage) is shown in Epic's Matrix Characters video: ua-cam.com/video/h_dJtk3BCyg/v-deo.html
when I use polarizer on ring flash and try to take pictures, it should remove all glare and reflection right ? but its blue color is showing up on object surface. trying to debug this problem but exactly dont know whats the issue.
totally normal. The polarizing film on the flash doesn’t polarize quiiiite everything. Some polarizing films do, but they burn and fall apart quickly. This one I use is way more durable and won’t burn away like most polarizing films. it’s easy to remove the blue in lightroom :)
Hey William, what about Mobile Phone Hardware? Because more and more people are switching to a good mobile phone like an 15 pro max when shooting under good lighting conditions. Is there a cross pol setup for mobile phones? This would be curious! Can you make a video about it? Thanks in advance!
Hm. I am not aware of any specific setup for cross polarization on mobile, but the process is the same. Just need a light that is polarized and have a polarizing filter on your phone camera. But really by the time you’ve gotten a bunch of additional hardware for mobile usage, you might as well be using a proper camera. Phone cameras are pretty good, and there are apps like realityScan to do this kinda thing. But it’s no real substitute for a cheap dslr/mirrorless. If anything a phone costs 2-3x as much as a second hand camera these days.
@@WilliamFaucher Hey and thanks for the answer! Maybe it would be worth a try! I think in good light, which would be available, smartphone pictures from the slightly better smartphones are really good. There are now lots of comparisons between mirrorless cameras and the top smartphones on UA-cam. I think I'm primarily interested in cost savings and mobility. The Godox Ringflash alone costs €500 and that doesn't include a polarizing filter! You always have your smartphone with you and the additional hardware would probably not be as disruptive as a professional setup.
@@autodriv3r405 the main issue with smartphones is that there is a TON of computation done on the images which negatively affect photogrammetry results. Nice looking photos does not equal good data for mesh generation. If you just want something quick and easy on the go and don't care too much about quality, go for it! But if you are serious about getting good, clean results that don't need a ton of cleanup in post, I can't recommend the smartphone route. Gotta use the right tool for the job. You can probably use a small handy swiss army knife to do some bushcraft, but it will never replace an axe.
@@WilliamFaucher Ok i understand. I thought that you could take the smartphone results to a new level with additional hardware to save money and weight. If you then shoot in RAW and further optimize the images afterwards in a RAW converter....mhhh....but yeah, youre right. An axe is an axe, a pocket knife is a pocket knife... I came up with the idea because the results from my sister's old camera, the EOS 700D, felt worse than the photos from my current 13 pro max. And the slow autofocus.....
@@autodriv3r405 The EOS might LOOK worse than your smartphone because your phone is doing a TON of computational work under the hood. Doing in-camera HDR, sharpening, contrast, saturation boosting, it is doing a LOT of hacks to make everything look prettier. But for 3d scanning, an image being pretty isn;t the point. We want to capture as much raw data as possible. Phones are really good, and I made a video about RealityScan ( a mobile app) which gave me pretty good results! ua-cam.com/video/EiBCdtGSRAA/v-deo.html But for any serious work I will be using my bigboi camera :)
Anyone know if this technique works on larger scans, such as Buildings? Outdoor Statues. i guess the flash wouldn't be strong enough on a large scale object. Maybe mid size would be fine.
shouldnt you first align the lens filter with the sunlight, then align the flash , to the lens filter, so it cuts both the sun and the flash highlights?
You can, that's why it's nice to have the option to rotate the filter. In general I don't recommend shooting in direct sunlight anyway, because the AR400 can't overpower it completely. Even an umbrella for shade will help.
I bought a same Ring flash you ahowed. Bought a circular polarization filter for my lens and a polarization film. I don't have the 3D printed adapter for the flash yet. Will it all be for nothing if I just tape on the polarization, if the film isn't completely flat?
@@WilliamFaucher Yes, but I don't have the frame, 200$ is a bit much for me, for that part. I just had it ordered from a 3D printing service for a fraction of the price. 15$ to print it. Should arrive in under a week, because it was printed locally. And I had bought the polarization film before.
Great tutorial! Thanks a lot! Would be wonderful to see how you would approach a photogrammetry of a human head, a human hands and the full body. I’m talking about single camera photogrammetry. Thanks!
I probably wouldn’t do that with a single camera :P it WILL work, but even your subject moving just 1mm will mess up the alignment and won’t give you a clean scan. There’s a reason lightstages and multicamera scan setups are expensive :)
I've had great results scanning people using an iPhone with Lidar sensor and the Scaniverse app. I guess the sensor eliminates most of the error from the subject moving.
Hi William! I'm working with toys company which products are made most of plastic. Would you reccommend this solution for photogrametry of let's say... HotWheels cars or Barbie dolls? This might be very useful for me as a 3D artist!
yeah absolutely! Since both of those have shiny surfaces, cross polarization can help. Though plastic like barbie dolls might be hard to scan because they are featureless. But I'll make a video on that topic
A second issue regarding the Polarization phenomenon is about the Angle we are shooting at a surface. Avoiding extreme angles (like 0 degrees: almost parallel or 90 degrees: looking down at the surface) shall give better results in cross polarizing. There is an exact angle which cancels out almost 100% of reflected light; the angle depends on the material of the reflective surface, i.e. the refractive index of that material. Varnish, oil, water have different indices, so the angle varies.
Wake up. Browse notifications.
William's video.
This is a good day!
Hahah you're too kind!
@@WilliamFaucher Hello, Can you make a video about gaussian technique?
I can't find it anymore, but someone once had a blog about a capture setup that was very cool. If you use a point source light (small flash bulb) and reflect it off a parabolic mirror, you can get collimated light. I forget all the technical details, but if you have cross polarized collimated light and you know the relative angles between your light and camera, you can then work out the angle of reflection and get a reflection map. It may have used Brewster's angle, I can't remember. I think you can separate metal from dielectric using Brewster's angle.
That sound awesome, did a quick Google using “collimated light reflection map photography parabolic mirror” but I mostly got research papers. Please follow up if you find it again.
thanks for that i will researxh this as i do a lot of die electric metal scans.
I'm glad someone is finally sharing this. This is common practice for ingesting assets at most film studios.
Amazing William! I have heard about cross-polarization for textures and 3d models generation for years but I had no idea that there was a pratical and affortable way of doing it. Thank you for your amazing work!
your insight in subject is so detailed I'm amazed
Thank you!
So timely! I've been working on a cross polarization setup recently.
I really appreciate your step by step approach, this all feels so crystal clear
This is such a great presentation of the cross-polarization method for eliminating reflections.
I just wanted to mention that Polarization as an optical phenomenon can be exploited only on Non-Metallic surfaces.
This means that polarized light can not be fully or partially cancelled when we are dealing with metallic objects. Which are photogrammetry's worst "enemies".
That is why we use fine powder sprayed on metallic surfaces to eliminate all metallic reflections. We lose the albedo - which is kind of black-ish anyway on most of metallic surfaces.
I'm not sure if there is any other method out there for metallic or semi-metallic objects for photogrammetry/3D scanning.
Any ideas are welcome.
Again, thanks for your fantastic tutorials, William!
Thanks William, I do photogrammetry and I was looking for a big budget flash, I was interested in the godox but didn't find anywhere a showcase of how much strong it is until you have done it. Thank you very much, now I know that it is the better choice 😀 also for small object you can use a rotation table like the foldio 360 which will automatically rotate and shoot at a predefined angle, in my case I use 10° so 36pics for each circle. it speed up the workflow and makes it so much easier.
Very neat results! I had quite similiar results with a 50 € Tiffen circular polarizer 52mm filter, a 80€ godox flash, a 25 € diffuser and a 20€ sheet of polarized film.
Hi @jobim3d, I'm interested in get a cheaper flash rather than the AR400. Which one do you use? 😀😀 Thanks in advance!
Yet another fantastic video Mr. Faucher!
Really nice info William, thanks. Can't wait for the glass approach. I work with plastic bottles, and a couple months ago did try to see if I could use photogrammetry, but PET/HDPE/PP bottles have a lot of problems to overcome. glare, reflection, transparency, repetitive features(or none at all) you name it :D
Are you able to paint them for the scan?
Omg! I can’t wait for glass photogrammetry! Every one of your vids is so valuable and stacked with information- thanks for all your instruction!
Great to see you're so close to 100k subs! Congrats William!
I approve. Now if we could use these techniques to get a 'clearer picture' of the micro cosmos....
Excellent production. Thank you.
Great video! Informative & fun to watch.
I'm really thankful I found your channel last year.
Definitely saving this for later reference. Great content as always!
You always make videos when I am working on this exact task. Great timing and great info as always!
Great tutorial ... again! It looks like, you will hit the 100k follower barrier soon. Congrats to this in advance. You deserved it. Off-topic question: What benefits registered people will get, when they pay for a membership of your channel? Thank you so much William and please go on!
thank you . we miss you
Great video. It's given me a lot to think about regarding my set-up and why I was having so much difficulty with my last scan project.
Will this technique work correctly for face scan? Thx for the great content as always!
Yes.... ua-cam.com/video/rBwPGYBn0Tc/v-deo.html
just don't look in the flash or you can say goodbye to your eyesight
The image + color quality of your video is INSANE. Why are you doing this to us?
Great video and info! Thanks!
Just recently started scanning with this setup as well! Gotta say though, the ringflash polarizer you suggest is godsent and I immediately put down an order. I DIY’d it with a polarizer filter and gaffer tape until now but this is much cleaner!
I’m interested to hear if you found a workaround to scan ‘multi-layered’ objects.. last week, I scanned a model wearing mesh garments and the results are problematic.
one of the best videos which I have seen lately! your channel is the only one to which I have clicked the notification bell on :D I have been thinking there are sprays which some shoe customizers use to make leather more matt. would a spray help also to get better results on scanning objects?
True Grzegorz Baran movies learn me how to do my job. I recomend them every one who work with photogrammetry.
Absolutely, he's a gem!
Superb tutorial. Thank you!
you do service public man..manny thanks! 👏👏
Thanks for teaching me photogrammetry!
Hey William massive congratulations on hitting 100K subs! Well deserved, your content is always very useful and your channel is such an inspiration. Is it just me or is there an extra lens in your quiver in the background?
The dude who invented that must be super smart!
William you're awesome thank you! That's some nice looking gear, and the results are clear. Thanks for the techniques!
Great video. You explained everything clearly. I am totally new to 3d scan (but not in 3d) and I wanted to ask: Is the Godox flash (or any other similar flash) necessary or even usefull when you want to scan a small stone house? Lets say that you have ideal conditions, no sunlight, because it's an overcast day or because it is early in the morning. Will the light of the flash reach the house from 2-3 meters where you stand and shoot? Is it an overkill? What's your opinion?
great video excellent information that was presented clearly and precisely
awesome information as usual! thks
Very good video William! Thanks :)
What if you're using a drone when you can't do cross polarisation? will a CPL help? How can I improve things like black guttering and railings? Thanks
Hey Will, do you think the Godox R200 would be plenty powerful enough as long as you're not doing photogrammetry outside in sunlight?
Great video! So the best is to cross both filters by 90° which is blocking most of the light when putting both filters on top of each other. Is this correct?
A limitation you didn‘t talk about is the size of the object to scan right?
It‘s clearly visible in your photos that the flash light falls off quite rapidly the further away a surface is. The technique / hardware you‘re presenting here wouldn’t work for big objects right?
What dimensions would you recommend to use at max?
Of course falloff is something to take into consideration. But it depends on what you're scanning to be honest. I wouldn't scan a house like this. But I've seen people scan entire HUGE rock formations or entire patches of roads with a cross polarized approach. It all depends on what you're scanning and how your shots turn out. It is impossible for me to consider every possible scenario and give you a max dimension, because there really isn't one. It boils down to, try it and see :)
It's less of a limitation, and more about understanding how light works, the falloff is the Inverse Square law, which applies to any light.
Just think like this If you are fisicly able to be 1 - 2 meters of the object you want to scan all arround, no matter the size… it can be done… you dont need to cover all the object in the frame…
That makes sense, thanks for your replies! Would it also be somehow possible to shoot some frames without cross polarization from further away (capture the whole object in a frame) just for alignment. And somehow exclude those pictures in Reality Capture for mesh reconstruction and texture baking? or is that non-sense?
@@Zyro_GG If you take photos at long distance, does will not make as detailed textures as the closest ones. Remember the best photogrametry relies on constant light, constant f-stop, and when possible constant distance from the obeject (same focus). In fact constant factor is more important than the quality of your rig. Please see how you can do it in this video: ua-cam.com/video/egJ78oxFaTU/v-deo.html
Great tutorial William! I am putting together this x-polarization setup and I am having difficulty synching the Godox AR400 with my Sony Alpha 7R through the flash synch cable. The flash fires after pressing the camera shutter. Could you provide any info? Thanks in advance.
For just one day, 8/4/22 the Flashpoint version of the Godox flash is on sale at Adorama for $319. It's apparently only available at that price through their email list. That's a great price.
How large of a lens can you use with this? Would a lens that uses 82mm filters work? Thanks.
I'm looking forward to your video on reflective objects. I scan sailplanes, which are white, shiny plastic, and it's really difficult scanning them. Only works if the sailplane is really dirty!
Great video William. I’m curious, how would you approach taking pictures of the bottom of the shoe???
I've made a dedicated video on scanning the bottom sides of objects already, it's the one I recommend watching in this video! Check it out!
Hello William! Can you please make some Niagara Particles tutorials? That would be nice!
Wow. Really informative. Thank you.
This is awesome! Thank you for this
One question. Do you know what is the furthest distance for this setup when shooting an object?
Would it work on a house outdoors?
Again, your videos are the best - thx!
excellent as always !!!!
If you have to move closer / further from the subject, do you adjust your exposure? Or do you have your flash on TTL mode or something so it adjusts for you?
I know im already 25, but will you be my father? :D Everybody needs his idol :D
I had no one driving my muse, no one supporting me, my mum was angry at me that im all time on PC ( doing 3D since my 13). And turning it off to get me out of home. And dad was beating the shit out of me cuz hes i dont know pathetic? .. Anyway, you are the person i would like to became one day. You are my idol. And thanks to you, my muse is always back. You make a new video, i watched and every second is so packed with information, watching you is like being a Musician student watching Mozart playing and explaining in the process. It gives you the dopamine rush promise, that if you go create with those new learned stuff, youll get rewarded. Thank you, and please dont stop. If people like you ever diss appear from the internet, i think i would continue.. i would give it 2 years and then i would burn out.
So, Thank you
Hello,how did you find out exactly what Epic Team is using for photogrammetry ? Where can I find out this information?
Ive talked to them directly ☺️
This is so brilliant William. Can’t wait for the video you teased, about scanning glassware etc! Btw can you say your last name slower next time - we all need to hear it. I keep saying “fockar” but I think you say “fow-shay”, ie. rhyming with cow slay?
Hahaha I've had a doctor call me Mr.Fucker once, wasn't even mad. It's pronounced "Foe-Shay". It's a french last name, super weird pronunciation :P
Could you make a video on how to build the ideal PC for unreal engine on a moderate budget between $2500-3500?
awesome stuff dude ! keep it up please !
Thank you!
Brilliant!! Thank you so much.
Hi William do You know what kind of lamp holder they use with Elinchrome lamp?
No idea! It very well could be a custom thing
Hello William, what Lens are you using for the scan with Nikon? Thanks.
Sigma 35mm f/1.4 Art
@@WilliamFaucher Thank so much.
This is gold.
Very cool. How do you get a roughness map, or did you just use a constant value?
I guess you''ve got to photoshop the sh*t out of the baked texture :P
Excellent info , thanks
Can anyone answer me where to plug in the cable? I have a canon 90D camera. When I plug it in MIC or Headphone jack, the flash won't react at all.
thaks so much .. awesome as always
majestic Tutorial as always William,! thanks I always wonredinrg waht hardware does Quixel team uses and now I know!
I hope you do something cool with UE5's new metahuman thing. How to light them nicely and maybe some animation tips. (I really like these videos even though I don't even use UE5 myself. The tech is just too cool :D)
Did you ever make the video about scanning objects that are near featureless?
Yes! Sortof! My creating an arctic environment video that I posted a couple months ago :)
@@WilliamFaucher awesome. Love the content. Keep up the good work sir!
very useful info, thanks!
How do you make roughness maps for these scans ?
Make a row with Cross polarisation and other without but use the flas. Then when you extract the texturas of the 3d model from the two tecnics use photoshop to subtract the albedo map with cross polarisation from the map without… et voi la… magic hapens!
may be it out fo Topix, any plan to make totorial about road spline feature use method rvt, and combine with parallax?
Good suggestion!
any alternatives to Ring Flash Polarizer, they are out of stock
this is amazing!! thanks!!
Does it work on glass
Awesome video, do you know if this setup will work on the Canon EOS rebel T7 that lacks the center pin on the hot shoe?
Yeah it'll work fine, just use the cable instead of the wireless transmitter! :) Assuming your camera has a 3.5mm headphone jack
Anyone know where to buy the Elinchrom rig?
Why isn’t possible to achieve the same result using two polarized lens filter rotated at different angles instead of one in the light and the other in the lens?
Because then the light itself isn’t polarized
Will this also increase flat and straight metal parts, like for example gun parts? Would be interesting to see the Slide of a Pistol scanned with this technique. It would be awesome if Hard Surfaces wouldn´t become wobbly ;-)
And what about using flash with filter?
I wonder if there's a practical way to take 2 photos at alternate polarisation and then subtract the difference.
You can get a polarised filter and rotate it 90° but keeping the camera in the same place and repeating it enough times to get a scan is insanely impractical
Yes. This is how professional light stage scanning setups work.
For a static object/prop, you can do this manually as long as the light source and camera are not moved at all.
A sample of the result (on a face using a high speed professional light stage) is shown in Epic's Matrix Characters video: ua-cam.com/video/h_dJtk3BCyg/v-deo.html
wow! cross polarization makes the raw photos look like half life 2 when you turn lighting off!
when I use polarizer on ring flash and try to take pictures, it should remove all glare and reflection right ? but its blue color is showing up on object surface. trying to debug this problem but exactly dont know whats the issue.
totally normal. The polarizing film on the flash doesn’t polarize quiiiite everything. Some polarizing films do, but they burn and fall apart quickly. This one I use is way more durable and won’t burn away like most polarizing films. it’s easy to remove the blue in lightroom :)
@@WilliamFaucher thanks, waiting for a video on the reflective object and less feature point objects 3d scans.
Hey William, what about Mobile Phone Hardware? Because more and more people are switching to a good mobile phone like an 15 pro max when shooting under good lighting conditions. Is there a cross pol setup for mobile phones? This would be curious! Can you make a video about it? Thanks in advance!
Hm. I am not aware of any specific setup for cross polarization on mobile, but the process is the same. Just need a light that is polarized and have a polarizing filter on your phone camera. But really by the time you’ve gotten a bunch of additional hardware for mobile usage, you might as well be using a proper camera. Phone cameras are pretty good, and there are apps like realityScan to do this kinda thing. But it’s no real substitute for a cheap dslr/mirrorless. If anything a phone costs 2-3x as much as a second hand camera these days.
@@WilliamFaucher Hey and thanks for the answer!
Maybe it would be worth a try!
I think in good light, which would be available, smartphone pictures from the slightly better smartphones are really good. There are now lots of comparisons between mirrorless cameras and the top smartphones on UA-cam.
I think I'm primarily interested in cost savings and mobility. The Godox Ringflash alone costs €500 and that doesn't include a polarizing filter! You always have your smartphone with you and the additional hardware would probably not be as disruptive as a professional setup.
@@autodriv3r405 the main issue with smartphones is that there is a TON of computation done on the images which negatively affect photogrammetry results. Nice looking photos does not equal good data for mesh generation. If you just want something quick and easy on the go and don't care too much about quality, go for it!
But if you are serious about getting good, clean results that don't need a ton of cleanup in post, I can't recommend the smartphone route. Gotta use the right tool for the job. You can probably use a small handy swiss army knife to do some bushcraft, but it will never replace an axe.
@@WilliamFaucher Ok i understand. I thought that you could take the smartphone results to a new level with additional hardware to save money and weight. If you then shoot in RAW and further optimize the images afterwards in a RAW converter....mhhh....but yeah, youre right. An axe is an axe, a pocket knife is a pocket knife...
I came up with the idea because the results from my sister's old camera, the EOS 700D, felt worse than the photos from my current 13 pro max. And the slow autofocus.....
@@autodriv3r405 The EOS might LOOK worse than your smartphone because your phone is doing a TON of computational work under the hood. Doing in-camera HDR, sharpening, contrast, saturation boosting, it is doing a LOT of hacks to make everything look prettier. But for 3d scanning, an image being pretty isn;t the point. We want to capture as much raw data as possible. Phones are really good, and I made a video about RealityScan ( a mobile app) which gave me pretty good results!
ua-cam.com/video/EiBCdtGSRAA/v-deo.html
But for any serious work I will be using my bigboi camera :)
Does cross-polarization also work on metallic reflections?
yes! but you’ll need to remove some purple/blue light in post
Anyone know if this technique works on larger scans, such as Buildings? Outdoor Statues. i guess the flash wouldn't be strong enough on a large scale object. Maybe mid size would be fine.
Yeah I wouldn't recommend this on a large building, you'll never get even lighting, your best bet is to shoot on an overcast day!
shouldnt you first align the lens filter with the sunlight, then align the flash , to the lens filter, so it cuts both the sun and the flash highlights?
You can, that's why it's nice to have the option to rotate the filter. In general I don't recommend shooting in direct sunlight anyway, because the AR400 can't overpower it completely. Even an umbrella for shade will help.
I bought a same Ring flash you ahowed.
Bought a circular polarization filter for my lens and a polarization film.
I don't have the 3D printed adapter for the flash yet.
Will it all be for nothing if I just tape on the polarization, if the film isn't completely flat?
Ordered a print of a free stl files I found online, just in case..
you dont need the polarization film, it comes with the frame from ScanSpace :)
I have the same rig too… i bought the filter from New Zeland, i am waiting more that 3 months…
@@WilliamFaucher Yes, but I don't have the frame, 200$ is a bit much for me, for that part. I just had it ordered from a 3D printing service for a fraction of the price. 15$ to print it. Should arrive in under a week, because it was printed locally. And I had bought the polarization film before.
How come there is no software that can clean reflections from pictures post prossesing
Hehe because software can't know what lies beneath a reflection
I love this man 😎
Thanks!!
THANKS
What lense are you using?
Sigma 35mm f/1.4 Art
Great tutorial! Thanks a lot!
Would be wonderful to see how you would approach a photogrammetry of a human head, a human hands and the full body.
I’m talking about single camera photogrammetry.
Thanks!
I probably wouldn’t do that with a single camera :P it WILL work, but even your subject moving just 1mm will mess up the alignment and won’t give you a clean scan. There’s a reason lightstages and multicamera scan setups are expensive :)
I've had great results scanning people using an iPhone with Lidar sensor and the Scaniverse app. I guess the sensor eliminates most of the error from the subject moving.
Hi William! I'm working with toys company which products are made most of plastic. Would you reccommend this solution for photogrametry of let's say... HotWheels cars or Barbie dolls? This might be very useful for me as a 3D artist!
yeah absolutely! Since both of those have shiny surfaces, cross polarization can help. Though plastic like barbie dolls might be hard to scan because they are featureless. But I'll make a video on that topic
@@WilliamFaucher Great news! I've seen there are plenty of sprays and powders for refletcive and shiny surfaces but that slows down the workflow.
dang this is awesome
Don't share all the Secrets 😉😏!!!
Joke aside, great Video !
Has anyone been able to get the Godox AR400 to work in high speed mode (eg. anything faster then
Is there a reason you need HSS/High Speed Sync? Bear in mind you will lose a lot of flash power output if you use that.
did you say modular?
How to Render shadow catcher in unreal engine
You are using Nikon D800?
Yep!