What Watch Brands Get Right (And Wrong) About Proportions | Hodinkee Radio
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- Опубліковано 27 чер 2024
- This week, Tony Traina is joined by Danny Milton and Malaika Crawford, and they're talking proportions: What watch brands get right, what they get wrong, and what we want to see more of. We start with Malaika's recent article, "The Plea For Proportionality," but quickly jump into recent releases from Vacheron Constantin, Tudor, and a whole lot more. While some of these smaller and mid-sized releases have garnered headlines, at large, average watch sizes haven't gotten much smaller, though options have certainly increased.
Check out the full story here: www.hodinkee.com/articles/wha...
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Stop making smaller versions of the same watch inferior in design, movement, etc. Why does the biggest watch size always have to be the flagship model?
The 7 series, the S class, Audi A8, Lexus LS, all flagships. 1 series, A class, Audi A1 and Lexus IS, economy cars.
The 35mm Overseas is the worst offender. The watch doesn’t have the Geneva Seal and the movement is TINY for the case size. And because the movement is tiny and the watch has a date window, even though they placed the date as far inside the dial as possible, they still had to make the bezel disproportionately wide to make the movement work with the case size. Just awful.
@@silviutiplea7126 counter example: all clothes
@@silviutiplea7126that a bad example. With those cars when you want comfort as a selling point for luxury more space is better as it’s more comfortable. That same logic doesn’t apply with watches. Bigger doesn’t mean better and bigger doesn’t mean more luxurious.
In cars your comparison doesn’t hold up as well either. There are more the 911 GT3 RS has less amenities, weighs less and is smaller than the base 911 Carrera yet the GT3 RS is more expensive and is the flagship.
@@silviutiplea7126that perhaps hasd been the case for cars but Rich old people in Japan driving the 7series or a big lexus on tiny roads here can be awful, therefore there are demand for small luxurious cars
for reasons.
Same applies for watches.
not every rich persons can pull large watches off
Really awesome topic and conversation! Be open, we are united in our differences.
I did not know that Hamilton didn’t pay to be in the movies. That’s a really cool fact.
“Taste level was questionable” - I am totally stealing this!
Iwc should bring out a limited black bay 54 version of their pilot chronograph with hands and font similar to their older 3706 and a guilt dial. That would be super cool
Honestly, I’m tried of hearing of Rolex. I own a few pieces but you can only get certain watches. Tried of playing the waiting game……it’s really nonsense. Cartier and Omega have nicer timepieces. I walked into a Cartier boutique and they were able to show me some limited edition watches they had just received. They were absolutely stunning!
Great episode ❤
On point.
They wouldn't make a 37 mm submariner, they same way they wouldn't make a 37 mm Fifty Fathoms. These are meant to be dive watches (that no one would use for diving any more, I get it). Companies that heavily rely on the watch social media and "enthusiasts" (Tudor) and companies that have revenue problems (Panerai) have done so but, what they have really done, is they have created smaller caricatures of their actual built-for-purpose pieces. There are plenty of smaller watches to chose from in virtually every size. The "issue" that some have is that they can't get the watch they want at the exact size they want. Unlike shoes however, many of these watches are built to serve a specific purpose (think of the Sub, the Navitimer) so what do you do in those cases? The Yachtmaster on the other hand was built to be work at the yacht club, not under water, hence the 37 mm version.
Between 1953 and 1959, the Submariner came in a stainless steel case that measured 37mm across.
@@derosa1989 That means nothing. Diver watches evolved from the existing watches of the time (that were smaller) to be tools whose great legibility hinges on size, among other things. Once they got it right, why would they go back to a less-than-optimal size?
I liked the bit where he landed the convo
What?
@@markjonzI think it's a reference to approx 42 mins in
Can you try to get Anant Ambani or else do a special on his watches?
A 37mm dive watch, with a 37mm bezel, would have a very squished dial. The amount of r&d and engineering that would be needed to make a dive watch that small for the 10 people out there to wear, just doesn't make financial sense for rolex
It's all about proportion, not only of the watch itself but also how it fits to you. Like a suit it must be of the right size for your body the same is for your wirst. I have a 15.5 / 16 cm wirst... And for me a 33 / 34 mm size with learher strap is awesome. If i wear a 38/40 mm watch it is absboutely unproportioned. It's so simple. Just follow the porportion rule
cAN YOU folks please talk about the proportions of the 14790 as opposed to the 4100 against the 5402 or 16202? Is the 4100 proportioned better or the 14790 is just the right one in terms of dial and the look and all. Does the 14790 look small?
Go the 14790. Funnily enough I just purchased the 4100 and I'm selling it. It's just a touch too small. The crown and the bezel don't work.
Please don’t mess with the 38.5s! They are perfect for my 8” wrists!
38.5 is too small for my 7inch wrist, how the heck do you wear a 38.5, on an 8inch wrist...?
I’m surprised the word unisex didn’t crop up more. Watch manufacturer are stuck in the idea a man needs a big masculine looking watch at 41-42, and women need a dainty pink watch with stones at 33-35. Unisex is 36-39 to me which can wear elegantly on many people (yes obviously not if you’re a very small or large person). I think Rolex Explorer 36 and Tudor 54 are two good examples of unisex watches.
Depends on your wrist. If you have a skinny wrist, yeah, you can wear a 36/37mm, but on my average size wrist, a 36/37mm looks ridiculous and gets lost on my wrist, so it depends on your wrist/arm size.
I wish people stop talking about ideal watch sizes. It's like someone saying that there is an ideal shoe size. Different people need different sizes. I can't even find a decent size field watch cause they're too small and look silly on me.
Enthusiasts have to understand they make up a niche minority part of the watch market. The general watch consumer, who buys one or 2 watches, generally want larger sizes than the minority enthusiasts. And the brands know that and know they won't make money on small watches.
Love this trio! ♥ Such a great topic with impactful perspectives! More please!!
It’s probably not cost effective to make a watch and model in every size color model to fit everyone’s varying needs/interest. That’s why Rolex has 1 line (DJ) that covers all of this, Omega does a good job with their AT line, Nomos with their Club line, Breitling has doing better with their Navitimer, Chronomat & SuperOcean models, Cartier always had smaller and now has larger. You’re not going to please everyone and some people will just have to look elsewhere to find their size or style. Making them cheaper just to make them is a different story. They def should stop. If they can’t put a quality product why even bother (greed ofc). To me I’d rather they make thinner (SMP) or shorter lug to lug (Nomos) then to try and make it in every possible size
I agree with Malaika on several watches and enjoy her fashion aspect.
It's 'Museum of Natural History,' not 'natural history museum'... since everyone is in the spirit of correcting everyone.