you probably dont care but if you're stoned like me during the covid times then you can stream pretty much all of the latest series on instaflixxer. Have been binge watching with my girlfriend lately xD
Great video! I've watched a few of these BMW bearing videos and definitely appreciate the detailed instructions in yours. To remove the seized axle in my 97 BMW E36 M3, I followed a similar approach but used a different tool. I first sprayed everything down with PB Blaster (great stuff) and let it sit overnight. I borrowed an OEM 7 ton puller from AutoZone (part #27271). After setting up the puller, slightly loose, I hit the bolt with my 4 LB hammer. After about 5 minutes I didn't feel I was making much progress and brought out my 8 LB sledge. 10 blows with that on the bolt of the puller and a couple of turns on the bolt and I heard a loud pop. The axle shaft was out!
This was a really good video man. I am doing my rear hubs soon and wanted an overview of the job maybe some shortcuts. This was perfect, very good camera quality and very informative. Kudos.
Thanks for the well produced video. I'm going to perform this on a '13 e84 (X1) this weekend. It should be more simple since the bearings are sold in housings that bolt in, but I'm wondering if I still need to pull my halfshaft bolts like you did.
Thanks for the video. My hub puller was the wrong one so i simply tied thin rope through the hub bolt holes & tied to my fence post. While applying rope tension i then used a hammer to very lightly tap the edges of the hub & she slid straight off. Where there's a will there's a way👍
The 36mm fastener is a nut, not a bolt, the caliper guide pins use a 7mm hex bit not a socket. Pulling and installing the bearing works better if the nut on the rod is to the outside the same with the hub. Put the parking brake back on before you reinstall the hub. Air chisel with a flat punch bit pushed my axle right out and anti-seize on everything made installation much easier. I even put it on the threads of the bearing/hub tool.
Great video, this will help me do this job on my own. My only question is how you got the half shaft back into the hub. Did you use a bearing puller to get it back in, or were you able to "force" it in by hand? I couldn't quite follow your recommendations for getting that back in.
It's kind of a pain in the ass. You have to place a prybar between the half shaft and differential flange and slowly nudge it back into the hub. Make sure you lubricate the splines. It takes patience, but it eventually works without damaging anything. Maybe there's a trick to get it back in easily, but I couldn't figure it out.
Salsa_Shark Thanks for the clarification. I saw another vid where they hand pushed the half shaft back into the hub just enough to where they could start the locking nut and used that to pull the hub through by turning the screw. Thanks for your hard work documenting this process.
Here's the technique I used. With the half-shaft and hub outside of the car, gently tap the hub on, use a puller/pusher to push it off. Lot's of WD40. Repeat until the shaft would go on all the way by hand force. Make sure the tooth are 'mated' at exactly the the same position on each repetition. Mark the tooth on the hub and shaft so that you push it on the same way during install. It will go on with no problem after that. The thing to note however is that it's meant to be a very tight fit. But without the BMW special tool, there's no way to do it properly.
Is there any way to do it without taking the half shaft off? I can’t get one single bolt off and im stuck j can’t work any further on it. I’ve used PB blaster, heat, vice grips, extensions on my ratchet, and a torch wrench and it won’t move. How can either A. Get the bolt off with some kind of home remedy or B. Find a way to get to the bearing without messing with the half shaft.
Good DIY ... thanks for posting. But I have one question, You say at 27:39 to make sure to have one plate to suport the iner race.... My question is, You can use the same plate used to remove the bearing, or is that one you "call big plate in the back"?.... Before ear you said that I think tha same plate you used to pulled out the bearing, can suport the iner race in the moment you press the hub in...
I can't remember if it was exactly the same plate, but it fit perfectly in the rear opening of the hub. The one to use has to support the entire surface of the bearing. It's kind of hard to explain...
Hey man, thank you so much for the video! it was great help. However, I did something to the ABS and not sure if it's the sensor or the ring. Is there a way to know which one? The lights are on and the speedometer isn't working. Thanks!
Hmm, I'm not sure. When I knocked the ring off, the yellow traction control and ABS light were on, but I think the speedo worked. Maybe try using a code reader?
@@salsa_shark6394 yeah I did I I got no codes (used the BlueDriver scanner). I’ve been doing some research and spoke to a couple other people and I’m pretty sure it’s the sensor since the speedometer isn’t working and everything happened as soon as I turned the car on. I’m waiting on the new sensor and will see how it goes.
@@arbeamngcrash3763 Yes maybe you are right Alex but I have been reliably informed not to freeze the bearing and all the ones I fitted fitted fine at normal room temperature I’m sure the bearing does not get frozen in normal use anyway, However there are always going to be ‘for and against’ arguments on this one!!
Would it be easier to leave the half shaft attached removing the hub first with the puller? The splined end of the half shaft would move in a more free manner and no need for a slide hammer?
I think the first job is to get the hub nut off, it’s ok with air but not everybody has access so there may be a lot of wasted time getting to the point where the hub nut comes off but it wont budge. Get it off and retighten if need be. Another thing is pushing out the CV, I’d be wary of using the method shown ‘cos it may bend the hub flange - even slight bending will cause vibration later.
I can't think of another way to remove the CV joint from the hub. Also, the hub is a pretty solid chunk of metal, it would be difficult to bend it. Suppose it's possible.
What size cups/drifts did you use? I'm trying to figure out what sizes I need to consider in a set, as the set I borrowed off a mate doesn't have a receiving cup large enough. I realise I could just use some bricks, but I like buying tools anyway.
I can't remember exactly which sizes I used. It was a process of trial and error. This was the kit I bought: www.amazon.ca/Orion-doutils-d%C3%A9montage-roulement-pi%C3%A8ces/dp/B01FLVOAZI/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3P73L1W75VHK3&dchild=1&keywords=bearing+press+kit&qid=1599584348&sprefix=bearing%2Caps%2C181&sr=8-5
Hi. Can I ask you that you changed the rear bearings with ABS ring or without ABS ring? Because I can change now too but my mechanic told me that I must buy rear bearing set with ABS ring what is very expensive and many others told me that I dont need ABS ring and I can buy a normal set of bearings. Thanks for the answer.
I'm not sure if that's the same as my car but if you take them bolts out from the back you don't just get the bearing you get the other part with it omg
So how did you bend the "lock flanges" out? At 6:46 looks like you tried without bending then at 7:02 they are bent out. Having great difficulty bending them out. Everything seems to just drive them in further.
Hmm... I don't remember it being too difficult. I used a small cold chisel and tapped then out. Maybe try heating the metal with a torch so you could bend it out with a screwdriver...
@@salsa_shark6394 Got a small pointed chisel and was able to get it bent out fairly easy. What I was using before was catching on the edge. The right tool always helps.
If you can't do most of your own maintenance, then yes. Parts can also be very expensive, especially at the dealership. If you just need a car to get you to work and back, stick with a Honda Civic or Toyota Corolla.
Lmao this job is literally impossible without that first big specialized puller pusher you have. To get the axle out . Please provide me a link or let me know where you got that ASAP. edit: got it after going through 3 hydraulic presses and a cheapo socket 3jaw puller. beware of 3jaws, they are too small for axles. hammer method on 3jaw did not work for me.
Sorry, I missed your comment, I bought the puller at a tool store where I live in Canada. It wasn't expensive, you should be able to find it online. You might have to bring it to a local garage. Big hammer and a torch, man...
@@salsa_shark6394 dont be sorry. That huge C puller was not expensive? anything that big like that is easily $500 USD on the internet. I tried the torch hammer method also. did not work. ended up getting it on my 3rd 12ton hydraulic 3 jaw puller after vanquishing the first 2 and a 5ton one. ha ha. www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-hydraulic-gear-puller-66657.html
@@salsa_shark6394 Now i need to do pilot seal ( gonna get trans rebuilt since its down), transmission pan, andddd CCV refresh. infinite work. ha ha... what all have you conquered ?
@@strayrob1 This is the exact puller I bought : www.forcetools-kepmar.eu/Force-Gear-Puller-2-Jaw. It's a European site, you'll probably have to find a US distributor. I've done pretty much every DIY project on my e46 you can do. I would say replacing my clutch with no lift was the most difficult... I'm actually going sell my car soon, getting too rusty.
I don't understand why people with these costly cars, doing complex, heavy costly repairs don't spend money on a compressor and an impact wrench.. Worth their weight in gold on jobs like this.
Is there any way to do it without taking the half shaft off? I can’t get one single bolt off and im stuck j can’t work any further on it. I’ve used PB blaster, heat, vice grips, extensions on my ratchet, and a torch wrench and it won’t move. How can either A. Get the bolt off with some kind of home remedy or B. Find a way to get to the bearing without messing with the half shaft.
As far as I know, you have to remove the half shaft to do the job. You can't pull the bearing or hub with it still in. You may have to bring it to a local shop, they might be able to help you. Good luck.
I've watched 25 different videos for this job. And truly yours is the best, I can say after watching this, "I'm ready".
Thanks! Just make sure you have the right tools. It's pretty easy with the right tools, but almost impossible without them!
you probably dont care but if you're stoned like me during the covid times then you can stream pretty much all of the latest series on instaflixxer. Have been binge watching with my girlfriend lately xD
@Jefferson Marshall definitely, have been watching on instaflixxer for years myself :)
Great video! I've watched a few of these BMW bearing videos and definitely appreciate the detailed instructions in yours. To remove the seized axle in my 97 BMW E36 M3, I followed a similar approach but used a different tool. I first sprayed everything down with PB Blaster (great stuff) and let it sit overnight. I borrowed an OEM 7 ton puller from AutoZone (part #27271). After setting up the puller, slightly loose, I hit the bolt with my 4 LB hammer. After about 5 minutes I didn't feel I was making much progress and brought out my 8 LB sledge. 10 blows with that on the bolt of the puller and a couple of turns on the bolt and I heard a loud pop. The axle shaft was out!
I saw a video where the guy did the same thing you're describing. Luckily for me I was able to get it moving with just the puller. Thanks.
This was a really good video man. I am doing my rear hubs soon and wanted an overview of the job maybe some shortcuts. This was perfect, very good camera quality and very informative. Kudos.
Hey, thanks man.
Thx for this great video ! I'll do it this afternoon, it will be a piece of cake I hope !
Good luck.
Nice video man!
excellent video and job. thx
great video best Ive seen thank you
Thanks!
Perfekt gemacht 👍
Very good video. I feel a little better about paying the dealership $1100 to do this but I'm glad you didn't have to. Thanks for posting
Thanks. It's not an easy DIY.
Thanks for the well produced video. I'm going to perform this on a '13 e84 (X1) this weekend. It should be more simple since the bearings are sold in housings that bolt in, but I'm wondering if I still need to pull my halfshaft bolts like you did.
Thanks. I'm not sure. You might be able to just pull them off the halfshaft splines instead of removing the whole thing. Good luck.
Thanks for the video. My hub puller was the wrong one so i simply tied thin rope through the hub bolt holes & tied to my fence post. While applying rope tension i then used a hammer to very lightly tap the edges of the hub & she slid straight off. Where there's a will there's a way👍
Nice.
The 36mm fastener is a nut, not a bolt, the caliper guide pins use a 7mm hex bit not a socket. Pulling and installing the bearing works better if the nut on the rod is to the outside the same with the hub. Put the parking brake back on before you reinstall the hub. Air chisel with a flat punch bit pushed my axle right out and anti-seize on everything made installation much easier. I even put it on the threads of the bearing/hub tool.
Good job
Great video, this will help me do this job on my own. My only question is how you got the half shaft back into the hub. Did you use a bearing puller to get it back in, or were you able to "force" it in by hand? I couldn't quite follow your recommendations for getting that back in.
It's kind of a pain in the ass. You have to place a prybar between the half shaft and differential flange and slowly nudge it back into the hub. Make sure you lubricate the splines. It takes patience, but it eventually works without damaging anything. Maybe there's a trick to get it back in easily, but I couldn't figure it out.
Salsa_Shark Thanks for the clarification. I saw another vid where they hand pushed the half shaft back into the hub just enough to where they could start the locking nut and used that to pull the hub through by turning the screw. Thanks for your hard work documenting this process.
Yeah, I saw that vid too. Didn't work for me. Good luck.
Here's the technique I used. With the half-shaft and hub outside of the car, gently tap the hub on, use a puller/pusher to push it off. Lot's of WD40. Repeat until the shaft would go on all the way by hand force. Make sure the tooth are 'mated' at exactly the the same position on each repetition. Mark the tooth on the hub and shaft so that you push it on the same way during install. It will go on with no problem after that. The thing to note however is that it's meant to be a very tight fit. But without the BMW special tool, there's no way to do it properly.
Thank you
Is there any way to do it without taking the half shaft off? I can’t get one single bolt off and im stuck j can’t work any further on it. I’ve used PB blaster, heat, vice grips, extensions on my ratchet, and a torch wrench and it won’t move. How can either A. Get the bolt off with some kind of home remedy or B. Find a way to get to the bearing without messing with the half shaft.
Fren kaliperini cikartirken soketlere stosdemper engel oldumu?Hangi cözümü uyguladiniz.
Good DIY ... thanks for posting.
But I have one question, You say at 27:39 to make sure to have one plate to suport the iner race.... My question is, You can use the same plate used to remove the bearing, or is that one you "call big plate in the back"?....
Before ear you said that I think tha same plate you used to pulled out the bearing, can suport the iner race in the moment you press the hub in...
I can't remember if it was exactly the same plate, but it fit perfectly in the rear opening of the hub. The one to use has to support the entire surface of the bearing. It's kind of hard to explain...
Hey man, thank you so much for the video! it was great help. However, I did something to the ABS and not sure if it's the sensor or the ring. Is there a way to know which one? The lights are on and the speedometer isn't working. Thanks!
Hmm, I'm not sure. When I knocked the ring off, the yellow traction control and ABS light were on, but I think the speedo worked. Maybe try using a code reader?
@@salsa_shark6394 yeah I did I I got no codes (used the BlueDriver scanner). I’ve been doing some research and spoke to a couple other people and I’m pretty sure it’s the sensor since the speedometer isn’t working and everything happened as soon as I turned the car on. I’m waiting on the new sensor and will see how it goes.
@@gustavorock4616 good luck
When installing the bearing, you should leave the new bearing in the freezer. By freezing it you are effectively shrinking it ever so slightly
I forgot to try that, thanks.
@@salsa_shark6394 don’t bother freezing it, it fits well without it, the grease in bearing wasn’t designed for freezing 🥶
@@SalimKhan-gk1fh lol you don't think BMW thought about people using their cars in freezing temps?
@@arbeamngcrash3763 Yes maybe you are right Alex but I have been reliably informed not to freeze the bearing and all the ones I fitted fitted fine at normal room temperature
I’m sure the bearing does not get frozen in normal use anyway, However there are always going to be ‘for and against’ arguments on this one!!
Nice tools
Would it be easier to leave the half shaft attached removing the hub first with the puller? The splined end of the half shaft would move in a more free manner and no need for a slide hammer?
I don't know if it would work that way. You could try it and post the video...
I think the first job is to get the hub nut off, it’s ok with air but not everybody has access so there may be a lot of wasted time getting to the point where the hub nut comes off but it wont budge. Get it off and retighten if need be. Another thing is pushing out the CV, I’d be wary of using the method shown ‘cos it may bend the hub flange - even slight bending will cause vibration later.
I can't think of another way to remove the CV joint from the hub. Also, the hub is a pretty solid chunk of metal, it would be difficult to bend it. Suppose it's possible.
Hi, Thank you for this video I learn something.. may I ask do you have a link to the E14 slim torque socket just can't find one?
I bought them at a local tool store, so no link. You should be able to find a set online somewhere.
@@salsa_shark6394 also on the E14 screws in to the Differential do you know whats the torque spec ? Thank you in advance!!
@@giovzk27 Around 30 ft/lbs? Sorry, I don't really remember. You can find it online somewhere...
What size cups/drifts did you use? I'm trying to figure out what sizes I need to consider in a set, as the set I borrowed off a mate doesn't have a receiving cup large enough. I realise I could just use some bricks, but I like buying tools anyway.
I can't remember exactly which sizes I used. It was a process of trial and error. This was the kit I bought:
www.amazon.ca/Orion-doutils-d%C3%A9montage-roulement-pi%C3%A8ces/dp/B01FLVOAZI/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3P73L1W75VHK3&dchild=1&keywords=bearing+press+kit&qid=1599584348&sprefix=bearing%2Caps%2C181&sr=8-5
You don't have to remove the sway bar
Hi.
Can I ask you that you changed the rear bearings with ABS ring or without ABS ring? Because I can change now too but my mechanic told me that I must buy rear bearing set with ABS ring what is very expensive and many others told me that I dont need ABS ring and I can buy a normal set of bearings. Thanks for the answer.
The ABS ring is on the halfshaft, not on the bearing itself. My car is a 330i, it might be different on other models.
Why didn't you just keep pulling out the hub with the axle in it?
Do you have part numbers for that puller and bearing press?
I bought them at a tool store near where I live. You can find similar tools at Amazon or any tool website.
I'm not sure if that's the same as my car but if you take them bolts out from the back you don't just get the bearing you get the other part with it omg
So how did you bend the "lock flanges" out? At 6:46 looks like you tried without bending then at 7:02 they are bent out. Having great difficulty bending them out. Everything seems to just drive them in further.
Hmm... I don't remember it being too difficult. I used a small cold chisel and tapped then out. Maybe try heating the metal with a torch so you could bend it out with a screwdriver...
@@salsa_shark6394 Got a small pointed chisel and was able to get it bent out fairly easy. What I was using before was catching on the edge. The right tool always helps.
Where did you get all the parts? I have been looking all over and have not found the correct parts.
I was able to get some parts from a local euro parts place, others I had to go to the dealership. Just google what's in your area.
I know that this video is from 5 years ago, but I have a question... is it very expensive to maintain and repair a bmw car?
Thank you
If you can't do most of your own maintenance, then yes. Parts can also be very expensive, especially at the dealership. If you just need a car to get you to work and back, stick with a Honda Civic or Toyota Corolla.
I would oil the bearing race before pressing in, that should make pressing easier.
I did that. I may not have shown it in the video.
Putting the bearing in the freezer for an hour helps.
Great video! Where did you purchase your snap ring or circlip pliers?
Thanks. I bought the pliers at a tool store near where I live. You could buy similar ones on Amazon.
Thank you! I ordered a pair on Amazon. Salsa_Shark
How many hours did it take you to do the full job?
It took me a couple of weekends of buying tools and figuring things out. With the right tools and no problems, you could do the job in about 5 hours.
@@salsa_shark6394 ok, thanks, for the vídeo and the anser
What bearing press kit is that?
I bought it at a tool store near my house. I've seen similar ones on Amazon...
Lmao this job is literally impossible without that first big specialized puller pusher you have. To get the axle out . Please provide me a link or let me know where you got that ASAP. edit: got it after going through 3 hydraulic presses and a cheapo socket 3jaw puller. beware of 3jaws, they are too small for axles. hammer method on 3jaw did not work for me.
Sorry, I missed your comment, I bought the puller at a tool store where I live in Canada. It wasn't expensive, you should be able to find it online. You might have to bring it to a local garage. Big hammer and a torch, man...
@@salsa_shark6394 dont be sorry. That huge C puller was not expensive? anything that big like that is easily $500 USD on the internet. I tried the torch hammer method also. did not work. ended up getting it on my 3rd 12ton hydraulic 3 jaw puller after vanquishing the first 2 and a 5ton one. ha ha. www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-hydraulic-gear-puller-66657.html
@@salsa_shark6394 Now i need to do pilot seal ( gonna get trans rebuilt since its down), transmission pan, andddd CCV refresh. infinite work. ha ha... what all have you conquered ?
@@strayrob1 This is the exact puller I bought : www.forcetools-kepmar.eu/Force-Gear-Puller-2-Jaw. It's a European site, you'll probably have to find a US distributor. I've done pretty much every DIY project on my e46 you can do. I would say replacing my clutch with no lift was the most difficult... I'm actually going sell my car soon, getting too rusty.
I don't understand why people with these costly cars, doing complex, heavy costly repairs don't spend money on a compressor and an impact wrench..
Worth their weight in gold on jobs like this.
I'm not sure what you mean, I use an impact wrench in the video...
I thought the channel name was Sansa Stark...
Ugh, the most boring character on the show.
All the fancy tools and you don't know a bolt from a nut
Maybe you should make your own video then.
That is one rusty car!
Yeah, I know. That's what 15 years of Canadian winters will do to a car.
Not as rusty as the one ime working on
Jesus. Watching this video i was thinking wow, almost no rust to be seen. Guess I have Norwegian roadsalt to thank for my rustbucket.
I always Hated working on BMW !!!!!!!!!!!!
OK when NEW
When old you CRY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Is there any way to do it without taking the half shaft off? I can’t get one single bolt off and im stuck j can’t work any further on it. I’ve used PB blaster, heat, vice grips, extensions on my ratchet, and a torch wrench and it won’t move. How can either A. Get the bolt off with some kind of home remedy or B. Find a way to get to the bearing without messing with the half shaft.
As far as I know, you have to remove the half shaft to do the job. You can't pull the bearing or hub with it still in. You may have to bring it to a local shop, they might be able to help you. Good luck.
@@salsa_shark6394 I ended up having to bring it to a shop. Car is running smoother than ever now though