I love how you problem solve and make mistakes like us regular dude. The high end productions are somewhat helpful, but your videos are real world situations with good explanations, descent lighting, and shows how much a challenge is likely. I hate when shops go through a job where there are no mistakes, no hesitation or explanation, and literally no dirt, oil, or rust. Thanks for keepin it real.
A little tip, when you have to round round off or chamfer the end of a bolt, leave the nut on the bolt and then when your done rounding the end simply undo the nut and it will recut the thread, super easy 👍
Thanks for your BMW videos, they have saved me a fortune. In this case though, I think you put yourself thru more than you needed to. It's way easier to pull the hub using a slide hammer, it offers almost no resistance. And to remove the inner race that remains on the hub, it is also much easier to just put the bearing separator biting on the inner lip (where you touch with the disc at 16:38) and then push the separator using the wheel bolts. It slides right out. I borrowed all the special tools I needed from the autoparts store for $0.
That isn't always the case. I'm using a slide hammer to try and remove the hub from the bearing and it wont budge at all. I've used penetrating oil and have been banging away for about an hour and it wont move.
Thanks man. Glad you kept your mistakes in the videos and how you went about fixing them. Made me triple check every step I do before going about doing them lol.
Thanks for the video....you remind me of myself working on cars. Tip: When I need that second person to apply the brakes... I use a length of timber from the brake pedal to the seat and adjust the seat forward depending on how much pressure I need.👌
Thank you for the detailed explanation and clear example of the remove and replace. Great camera work, vidio presentation and attention to detail. Look forward to more of your workmanship.
LARGESSE!! Thank you. My 200,000 + mile E53 will certainly be needing rear bearings. I might as well do this as a preventive measure. I kinda sorta did on my front bearings by removing the hub (while I was replacing the CV axle) and took it to a local shop to R&R the bearing. Obviously the rears are different and I'm glad you detailed the process.
I know its a old video but today I was watching it and I almost spill my coffee in the part when he realized that he forgot the duster 😂😂 but I learn from him
Dude, great videos, amazing amount of time and effort you take- thank you it has helped me loads. I cut same slot on the backplates when replacing them in my e46, much easier, faster and no adverse effects. Keep up the great work👍 UK fan 🇬🇧
@@byronmitchell3600 yes it actually went pretty smooth. A lot better than I thought. I brought the hub to a machine shop to have the old ones removed and new ones pressed in. That didn’t cost much at all. I also didn’t need to completely remove the axles or do anything with the exhaust.
beautiful effort .. self made bearing press is cool also backing plate (dust shield) after cut and install is nice too. OTC Hub Grappler really given me baseline too to create some self inventive way to Press and Pull the Hub or Bearing. big thaaaank you for giving us food for thought to invent a bit from ourselves.
When I saw you forget to put back the dust plate first. I went oh sh*** all that work! But that was a genius work around. Nice video as always. Thanks.
Great Video. I have to do this. We did the front bearings and its the back thats making the noise. Would the rear wheel bearings set off the 4x4 abs brake lights? Ut says DSC inactive on the panel too. I did the transfer case. The gear had very little wear. I replaced it anyway. Thanks
Don't get me wrong, but you can buy the complete assembly, bearing and hub for a good price, so you don't have to go thru all that trouble, I did mine , easy but I use your video for reference, thanks
THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO! Almost looking forward to doing this to my 05 I’m just so worried that I may be diagnosing the wrong bearing. That or I have a bad front and rear bearing
Hi Jason! Thanks for posting this one. I have an E70, which slightly different, but my problem is that I’m using the slide hammer to pull the hud and it will not move at all. I have been spraying rust penetrant to the drive shaft splines, and it will not move back either… Not sure what to do now, any ideas? Thanks!
Simpler way. Remove brake cable from knuckle, install long extension through the hole. Drive the stuck hub off from the back using 4 lb hammer. Much faster.
Just observing here .. Would it not be less complicated to pop the upper and lower control arm bolts and pull the spindle directly off after pulling the outer hub ? It would appear to me its entirely less time consuming . I’ve also seen dudes use a heavy duty claw puller remove the outer hub , I’ve also seen a bolt on slide hammer used
are you ok my friend ? couse it looks like you lost some weight there buddy . anyway i love the video's , you deserve 1.000.000 and more viewers !!! LOVEE what you do !! take good care of yourself and god bless .
I have an E39 2002 model 530 diesel automatic car with the M57 engine (CA980-40). I changed the front suspension shock absorbers with MEYLE, engine mounts with BMW Genuine, control arms MEYLE again. I had the oil change 3.000 miles ago and also did the transmission fluid change at 60K. The car is currently at 65K miles. I am the 2nd owner of the car. Overall it is a great car but I think I have some problems with it. An old guy used to own the car. He died, and I bought the car from his sons. I have no information regarding the service history of the car and how it has been used. But all the mechanics I have taken it to have said that it has been taken care of and there are no leaks and so on. I have been having a wobbly/ like a fud noise coming from the front of the car, under my legs where the gas pedal is. Or maybe the wobbly noise is coming from the transmission but I feel that it is coming from the engine compartment. This noise takes place when the transmission shifts gears from 1 to 2 and vice versa. The acceleration is fine. The engine sounds smooth and there are no problems with it. But there is a big “once jump”, “a noticeable wobble sound” when the car shifts from 1 to 2 or from 2 to 1 speed. This is especially more noticeable when the car has not reached its operating temperature. After 10 minutes of driving, some (most part) of this noise disappears. This vibration has gotten worse, not by much, but it has. My main problem is I feel vibration under my feet where the gas pedal is - when I touch it, it gives me that feeling. I feel it more when I push it and let it go. I had a mechanic check. He says that it is not the transmission problem or its mounts but rather the rear axle. He drove it and also checked it and showed it to me. There is a little play at the long shaft that is connected to the transmission. It is not the part that connects to the transmission directly (where the guibo is) but rather at the back place where the transaxle is. If that is the case I really do not know what do since it costs around 1000 euros of BMW genuine. I have seen a video related to rear axles and the guy says these usually wear out after 100K or even at 200K miles. I really couldn't understand why mine went at 65K miles. Again, if that is the problem. The mechanic is sure that is the problem. He says that if it had been the transmission mounts, the car would vibrate a lot even at stand still, I am not sure if that's correct.
Well, the fun begins when I finish faster and I grab a cold beer first than you, do a video on how to replace the pcv, I'm into that soon, looks a little complicated
you should do a video on ebay headers on a e46 ..that would be awesome video add to your channel ..I've learned alot from your videos & waiting to see more upcoming ones as well ...great job!
Hey good video's? Did you ever hear a bear sound like it's whistlin and whinig at certain speeds. I have an x3 e83 and can't narrow it down. Thanks again.
Same thing happened to me and I found the cause being the hub flange not properly inserted all the way in. It has to go through the inner bearing race as well. When you press the hub in, make sure the threaded rod is positioned against the bearing race closer to the differential.
I had the same issue and thought the new bearing was defective. Just press the hub into the bearing a little further to preload the bearing and the bearing will tighten up.
Hi, good video, I learned a few things! I've done wheel bearing on a older high mileage Infinity g37 awd and need to do my BMW X3 brakes bearings soon. On a balancing scale of pain in the ass to work on I give them both the same weight. Question: Why didn't you place a rounded large punch in the center of the rear axle which is hardened steel with maybe heat and PB Blaster then bang it inwards to free the axle from the bearing first? You may have had more room to work on the inside bolts. Maybe it's different from what I've worked on but if the wheel bearing is going to get destroyed anyway, why not? Again, I enjoyed your Video.
What do you think about using a vice or press to push the hub onto the new bearing before bolting the bearing onto the car? Thanks for making this video, gave us the motivation to tackle this job!
WOW, what a tough job and did not fully understand axle removal until later in the video. I tend to agreed with The Emerald Galleon on pressing the hub into the inner race first and still think it is easier.... But, to do so correctly also must insert dust shield between bearing and hub first! And yes hind sight is 20/20. Great video 50sKid and I personally appreciate that you include the "learning points" in your videos. Thank you for posting and I continue to learn!
Sorry....my mistake. Dust shield would still fit over outer race of wheel bearing if hub installed first......so easy to comment....much harder to do and post! Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!
Why didn't you use a slide hammer to pull the hub from the bearing? I think it would've been a lot easier on the hub. I don't totally get why you had to pull the axle out. Access to the bolts holding the bearing to the spindle?
Didn't have a slide hammer--just wanted to "press" it out that way. To show something different. In the end, yes it would be easier to slide hammer it, I agree. And yes I pulled it out to get better access to the bolts.
Can somebody tell me, wouldn't it be smarter if he had unscrew the Axelnuts when the wheel was still attached, that way you won't have to deal with unscrewing the rear axel with torx? Am I missing something here?
good god! what are you talking about? Torx don't hold axle to the knuckle. The axle is attached to the rear diff by 4 torx bolts and on the other hand the axle is attached to the hub by the wheel. Tell me, why do we have to remove the axle from the hub in other to remove the hub or bearing?
kay poly I didn't say that torx bolts hold the AXLE to the knuckle, I said that they hold the BEARING to the knuckle. Watch the whole video in its entirety and you'll see what I'm talking about. You have to get them out from the back side of the knuckle and there is no room to get the tool in there because the axle is in the way. That's why I removed it.
I actually don't know, but if you call around to a few different shops and ask them how much to do that specific job, you should get a good idea of what's fair.
+clabcon Yes and no. I recently did get a new camera, but this video was shot with the old one. I did change the codec settings I use to compress for UA-cam.
Why waste time taking the ebrake hardware down and then using the bearing splitter to get the hub off when it's much easier to pop the axle out then hammer out hub from inside with a larger sockets and 1/2 extension?
They all put the bolts on the back like that, but not recessed that's for sure. I dunno if I absolutely had to do it the way I did, i'm sure if I hit the job again i'd figure out a faster/eaiser way. This was just an experiment--one way to do it.
My apologies, i type weird. I was saying they should have put the bolts on the front, but recessed, for clearance purpose. Wonder what would happen if you put the bolt through the front instead of the back.
I think the correct way is remove the knuckle from the bushing with rod and shock and other connections, control arms, and drop the carriage then you just push the axle out because the whole front will be free and you can get to your bolts on the bearing. at least thats the way they do it in this video ua-cam.com/video/kyHghlHcpA0/v-deo.html
facepalm!!! youre doing waaaayyyy to much. you didn't need to do 90% of the work you did. just remove the brake system and use penetrating fluid. takes 15 minutes, no need to remove any suspension, exhaust, engine parts. exactly why people hate bmw mechanics. yall do way tooo much and make the customer pay for it. i love how you also recommend not doing something, when you do things that are 20 times worse. my recommendation is for you to repair one side of the camera and then record the other. so we don't actually witness your inadequacy.
Dude, there's plenty of video's out there showing exactly what to do in ideal situations with professional tools. I watch these videos because I don't always have the same access to tools, and sometimes conditions are not ideal (rusted parts etc). These videos are super helpful because they show more of what's possible and what's not. There are plenty of mistakes here, but I'm so glad he posts them because I can see myself making similar mistakes in moments of poor thinking. The only real 'error' he made as far as I can tell is that he put anti-seize on the bearing, you really don't want to do that. Everything other mistake was just at the cost of his time and effort and I'm so glad he makes these so that it saves me from making the same ones.
I love how you problem solve and make mistakes like us regular dude. The high end productions are somewhat helpful, but your videos are real world situations with good explanations, descent lighting, and shows how much a challenge is likely. I hate when shops go through a job where there are no mistakes, no hesitation or explanation, and literally no dirt, oil, or rust. Thanks for keepin it real.
This is exactly how my seemingly straight forward jobs always go! Glad I'm not alone! :)
Thank you! I like this kind of honest person who show the real situations during the job.💪🏼👍🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
A little tip, when you have to round round off or chamfer the end of a bolt, leave the nut on the bolt and then when your done rounding the end simply undo the nut and it will recut the thread, super easy 👍
Nice, thanks!
Thanks for your BMW videos, they have saved me a fortune. In this case though, I think you put yourself thru more than you needed to. It's way easier to pull the hub using a slide hammer, it offers almost no resistance. And to remove the inner race that remains on the hub, it is also much easier to just put the bearing separator biting on the inner lip (where you touch with the disc at 16:38) and then push the separator using the wheel bolts. It slides right out. I borrowed all the special tools I needed from the autoparts store for $0.
I think you're right
That isn't always the case. I'm using a slide hammer to try and remove the hub from the bearing and it wont budge at all. I've used penetrating oil and have been banging away for about an hour and it wont move.
Thanks man. Glad you kept your mistakes in the videos and how you went about fixing them. Made me triple check every step I do before going about doing them lol.
I salute you for making mistakes and correcting them like the rest of us DIYERS..fantastic content💯👌
Thanks for the video....you remind me of myself working on cars.
Tip: When I need that second person to apply the brakes... I use a length of timber from the brake pedal to the seat and adjust the seat forward depending on how much pressure I need.👌
Thank you for the detailed explanation and clear example of the remove and replace. Great camera work, vidio presentation and attention to detail. Look forward to more of your workmanship.
LARGESSE!! Thank you. My 200,000 + mile E53 will certainly be needing rear bearings. I might as well do this as a preventive measure. I kinda sorta did on my front bearings by removing the hub (while I was replacing the CV axle) and took it to a local shop to R&R the bearing. Obviously the rears are different and I'm glad you detailed the process.
+Chris Melton Thanks!
The old wheel bearing had no chance vs your determination! Great video.
+toyo toe Thanks!
I love your videos why? First of all, you are doing a very good job second you're not hiding anything third you explain all very well thanks!😊
Great video. Thank you for helping us hobby mechanics and DIYers out.
I know its a old video but today I was watching it and I almost spill my coffee in the part when he realized that he forgot the duster 😂😂 but I learn from him
Brother, I love your sincerity!
Dude, great videos, amazing amount of time and effort you take- thank you it has helped me loads. I cut same slot on the backplates when replacing them in my e46, much easier, faster and no adverse effects. Keep up the great work👍 UK fan 🇬🇧
Jesus, I am dreading this!! The new bearing came in today.
Did you do a good job bro
@@byronmitchell3600 yes it actually went pretty smooth. A lot better than I thought. I brought the hub to a machine shop to have the old ones removed and new ones pressed in. That didn’t cost much at all. I also didn’t need to completely remove the axles or do anything with the exhaust.
beautiful effort .. self made bearing press is cool also backing plate (dust shield) after cut and install is nice too.
OTC Hub Grappler really given me baseline too to create some self inventive way to Press and Pull the Hub or Bearing.
big thaaaank you for giving us food for thought to invent a bit from ourselves.
Thanks!
Thanks for the helpful video, appreciate you leaving in the mistakes and all so we can learn with you
When I saw you forget to put back the dust plate first. I went oh sh*** all that work! But that was a genius work around. Nice video as always. Thanks.
Is it safe to do this? The e-brake system rides on that backing plate. I would assume structural integrity is lost after cutting.??
The SPIDER! on the suspension coil at 5:54! that is more important than the bearing itself! haha great vid Again you deserve 1mil Subs at least!
Great Video. I have to do this. We did the front bearings and its the back thats making the noise. Would the rear wheel bearings set off the 4x4 abs brake lights? Ut says DSC inactive on the panel too. I did the transfer case. The gear had very little wear. I replaced it anyway. Thanks
Don't get me wrong, but you can buy the complete assembly, bearing and hub for a good price, so you don't have to go thru all that trouble, I did mine , easy but I use your video for reference, thanks
+Felix Santiago True, but where is the fun in that? ;-)
I also bought the hub and bearing. Mine are separated. Did you do what he did to pull them together?
THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO! Almost looking forward to doing this to my 05 I’m just so worried that I may be diagnosing the wrong bearing. That or I have a bad front and rear bearing
Hi Jason! Thanks for posting this one.
I have an E70, which slightly different, but my problem is that I’m using the slide hammer to pull the hud and it will not move at all.
I have been spraying rust penetrant to the drive shaft splines, and it will not move back either…
Not sure what to do now, any ideas?
Thanks!
Simpler way.
Remove brake cable from knuckle, install long extension through the hole. Drive the stuck hub off from the back using 4 lb hammer.
Much faster.
Just observing here .. Would it not be less complicated to pop the upper and lower control arm bolts and pull the spindle directly off after pulling the outer hub ? It would appear to me its entirely less time consuming . I’ve also seen dudes use a heavy duty claw puller remove the outer hub , I’ve also seen a bolt on slide hammer used
Was thinking the same thing
are you ok my friend ? couse it looks like you lost some weight there buddy .
anyway i love the video's , you deserve 1.000.000 and more viewers !!!
LOVEE what you do !! take good care of yourself and god bless .
Excellent top Dogg grease monkey bmw specialist, thanks 50's Kid for all the help with the videos 👍👍
Have you a video for the front bearing on a E53
I have an E39 2002 model 530 diesel automatic car with the M57 engine (CA980-40). I changed the front suspension shock absorbers with MEYLE, engine mounts with BMW Genuine, control arms MEYLE again.
I had the oil change 3.000 miles ago and also did the transmission fluid change at 60K. The car is currently at 65K miles. I am the 2nd owner of the car. Overall it is a great car but I think I have some problems with it. An old guy used to own the car. He died, and I bought the car from his sons. I have no information regarding the service history of the car and how it has been used. But all the mechanics I have taken it to have said that it has been taken care of and there are no leaks and so on.
I have been having a wobbly/ like a fud noise coming from the front of the car, under my legs where the gas pedal is. Or maybe the wobbly noise is coming from the transmission but I feel that it is coming from the engine compartment. This noise takes place when the transmission shifts gears from 1 to 2 and vice versa. The acceleration is fine. The engine sounds smooth and there are no problems with it. But there is a big “once jump”, “a noticeable wobble sound” when the car shifts from 1 to 2 or from 2 to 1 speed. This is especially more noticeable when the car has not reached its operating temperature. After 10 minutes of driving, some (most part) of this noise disappears.
This vibration has gotten worse, not by much, but it has. My main problem is I feel vibration under my feet where the gas pedal is - when I touch it, it gives me that feeling. I feel it more when I push it and let it go.
I had a mechanic check. He says that it is not the transmission problem or its mounts but rather the rear axle. He drove it and also checked it and showed it to me. There is a little play at the long shaft that is connected to the transmission. It is not the part that connects to the transmission directly (where the guibo is) but rather at the back place where the transaxle is. If that is the case I really do not know what do since it costs around 1000 euros of BMW genuine. I have seen a video related to rear axles and the guy says these usually wear out after 100K or even at 200K miles. I really couldn't understand why mine went at 65K miles. Again, if that is the problem. The mechanic is sure that is the problem. He says that if it had been the transmission mounts, the car would vibrate a lot even at stand still, I am not sure if that's correct.
+Turhan Uludağ Well if he showed you the proof and you saw it with your own eyes, seems pretty clear what you gotta do...
Could you not put the axle
Back in and use the axle nut to pull the hub in?
Well, the fun begins when I finish faster and I grab a cold beer first than you, do a video on how to replace the pcv, I'm into that soon, looks a little complicated
you should do a video on ebay headers on a e46 ..that would be awesome video add to your channel ..I've learned alot from your videos & waiting to see more upcoming ones as well ...great job!
Hey good video's? Did you ever hear a bear sound like it's whistlin and whinig at certain speeds. I have an x3 e83 and can't narrow it down. Thanks again.
Could this also be applied to the E46?
Every good mechanic has a bolt jar.
That was good I guess that's how we learn from are mistakes, We are not professional good job,
Will this work with series 3? aka 2000 BMW 323i?
Notice the spider crawling up the shock absorber at 5:58...
When I pressed the hub into the bearing I noticed that it's wobbly. What could I have done wrong? I haven't finished putting it back together yet.
Same thing happened to me and I found the cause being the hub flange not properly inserted all the way in. It has to go through the inner bearing race as well. When you press the hub in, make sure the threaded rod is positioned against the bearing race closer to the differential.
I had the same issue and thought the new bearing was defective. Just press the hub into the bearing a little further to preload the bearing and the bearing will tighten up.
Great video ! All yours have helped me no end 👍
Random question , what do you use to shoot the videos ?
Hi, good video, I learned a few things! I've done wheel bearing on a older high mileage Infinity g37 awd and need to do my BMW X3 brakes bearings soon.
On a balancing scale of pain in the ass to work on I give them both the same weight.
Question: Why didn't you place a rounded large punch in the center of the rear axle which is hardened steel with maybe heat and PB Blaster then bang it inwards to free the axle from the bearing first? You may have had more room to work on the inside bolts. Maybe it's different from what I've worked on but if the wheel bearing is going to get destroyed anyway, why not?
Again, I enjoyed your Video.
What do you think about using a vice or press to push the hub onto the new bearing before bolting the bearing onto the car? Thanks for making this video, gave us the motivation to tackle this job!
That'll work. Just make sure you press on the inside bearing race.
WOW, what a tough job and did not fully understand axle removal until later in the video.
I tend to agreed with The Emerald Galleon on pressing the hub into the inner race first and still think it is easier.... But, to do so correctly also must insert dust shield between bearing and hub first! And yes hind sight is 20/20.
Great video 50sKid and I personally appreciate that you include the "learning points" in your videos.
Thank you for posting and I continue to learn!
Sorry....my mistake. Dust shield would still fit over outer race of wheel bearing if hub installed first......so easy to comment....much harder to do and post!
Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!
Why didn't you use a slide hammer to pull the hub from the bearing? I think it would've been a lot easier on the hub. I don't totally get why you had to pull the axle out. Access to the bolts holding the bearing to the spindle?
Didn't have a slide hammer--just wanted to "press" it out that way. To show something different. In the end, yes it would be easier to slide hammer it, I agree. And yes I pulled it out to get better access to the bolts.
I think he has a lot of free time
It's great that you show your negative issues, and especially how to correct them, so we don't make the same mistakes!
DEADF15H from E46Fanatics.com
Good job brother
Can somebody tell me, wouldn't it be smarter if he had unscrew the Axelnuts when the wheel was still attached, that way you won't have to deal with unscrewing the rear axel with torx? Am I missing something here?
The reason I removed the axle is because I couldn't get to the 4 torx bolts that hold the bearing to the knuckle.
good god! what are you talking about? Torx don't hold axle to the knuckle. The axle is attached to the rear diff by 4 torx bolts and on the other hand the axle is attached to the hub by the wheel. Tell me, why do we have to remove the axle from the hub in other to remove the hub or bearing?
kay poly I didn't say that torx bolts hold the AXLE to the knuckle, I said that they hold the BEARING to the knuckle. Watch the whole video in its entirety and you'll see what I'm talking about. You have to get them out from the back side of the knuckle and there is no room to get the tool in there because the axle is in the way. That's why I removed it.
How much do you think this will cost at a mechanic? Average price for parts and labor....
I actually don't know, but if you call around to a few different shops and ask them how much to do that specific job, you should get a good idea of what's fair.
It's around 3hr labor charge at $110 an hour at least it's what I have been quoted in NYC
This made me realise that I don't want to do this. LOL
God bless you❤
Have you got a new camera? Your audio is a lot clearer and video smoother at 60 fps.
+clabcon Yes and no. I recently did get a new camera, but this video was shot with the old one. I did change the codec settings I use to compress for UA-cam.
Why waste time taking the ebrake hardware down and then using the bearing splitter to get the hub off when it's much easier to pop the axle out then hammer out hub from inside with a larger sockets and 1/2 extension?
+miskec69 many ways to skin a cat!
wow big job thanks for the video?
great job
24:06 Why BMW didnt just place the bolts on the front. Recessed bolts. Damn all that work looked unnecessary.
They all put the bolts on the back like that, but not recessed that's for sure. I dunno if I absolutely had to do it the way I did, i'm sure if I hit the job again i'd figure out a faster/eaiser way. This was just an experiment--one way to do it.
My apologies, i type weird. I was saying they should have put the bolts on the front, but recessed, for clearance purpose. Wonder what would happen if you put the bolt through the front instead of the back.
I think the correct way is remove the knuckle from the bushing with rod and shock and other connections, control arms, and drop the carriage then you just push the axle out because the whole front will be free and you can get to your bolts on the bearing. at least thats the way they do it in this video ua-cam.com/video/kyHghlHcpA0/v-deo.html
Great 👍
umm why did you put copper grease on the hub as you press it to the bearing wtf that's completely wrong !!!!
yo. y wouldnt or cant u just put some big washers on the hub bolts and screw bolts just a couple turns to secure then wack washers from behind?
were do you live i need your help
Drop the rear swing arm.
You should have removed the entire axle carrier assembly. Would have made it so much easier
Grade 8*
facepalm!!! youre doing waaaayyyy to much. you didn't need to do 90% of the work you did. just remove the brake system and use penetrating fluid. takes 15 minutes, no need to remove any suspension, exhaust, engine parts. exactly why people hate bmw mechanics. yall do way tooo much and make the customer pay for it. i love how you also recommend not doing something, when you do things that are 20 times worse. my recommendation is for you to repair one side of the camera and then record the other. so we don't actually witness your inadequacy.
Dude, there's plenty of video's out there showing exactly what to do in ideal situations with professional tools. I watch these videos because I don't always have the same access to tools, and sometimes conditions are not ideal (rusted parts etc). These videos are super helpful because they show more of what's possible and what's not. There are plenty of mistakes here, but I'm so glad he posts them because I can see myself making similar mistakes in moments of poor thinking. The only real 'error' he made as far as I can tell is that he put anti-seize on the bearing, you really don't want to do that. Everything other mistake was just at the cost of his time and effort and I'm so glad he makes these so that it saves me from making the same ones.