BMW E46 Front Wheel Bearing Replacement DIY
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- 46mm Socket (I lied in the video, it's $30 I'm afraid): amzn.to/2pL1tLv
36mm Socket: amzn.to/2qffO71
2 jaw pullers: amzn.to/2rePBDo
This video is for entertainment purposes only. 50sKid assumes no liability for any repairs or modifications performed by the viewer as a result of the information contained in this video.
2002 E46 330Xi front wheel bearing and hub is COMPLETELY different... Just sayin' for those of you who are here for the AWD versions. This is not the video for us.
And thank you for the awesome video!
I’ve never needed a puller to get the hub bearing assembly off but most times the inner race stays on the shaft but they have never been a problem to tap off. All of the high quality’s that I’ve fitted have always come with new nuts and caps. The hub nut should be torqued up and not over tightened like this guy did. Amateurish to me. And before you say anything to me I have 49 years experience working on BMW’s.
Thanks 50's kids. I rely solely on you to repair my 325ci. Everyone always wonders why i have such am amazing car when i don't have much money. I do all my own work. Don't know what i would do without ya. Keep em comin fam.
Another awesome video mate 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
You have made maintaining the BMW's I own so much easier
5 years old, and still the easiest video to follow. Thanks, Kid!
Man I really want to meet this guy, every thing i learned about my car was from watching this guy. Well sub frame and another video was another guy.
Obscene price for a no less obscenly sounding brand name...
Good to know that its easy to change the bearings in the front when you have a E46, just hope they never go bad in the back :P
Yeah i have had many front bearings go bad, and they all just fall right out without a fuzz, rears have held up Great tho
Great video as always.
Those caps can be removed with much less savagery. Once you have an ear of the cap lifted use your flat-blade screwdriver with a twisting motion or I have also done well with a metal pick and then pulling the cap off with ease.
But I remember when I had removed a cap with the same "can-opener" approach thinking that it was more secure than it is.
Also a dead-blow hammer could be used in many instances with this particular job. One of which being to remove a stuck rotor to the hub. Simply tap the inner edge of the rotor as you spin it round and it will come off with little struggle.
Another clever way to remove the outer bearing for someone in a bind and without a puller, is to flip the now separated rotor around backwards and reinstall the lug bolts with the same number of twists (ex, 10) and then (with some very minor damage to the rear of the lugs) use the rotor as a slide hammer to pull the bearing apart with a few small bumps. I'm sure a buffer could be fashioned to spare marring the lugs ever so slightly. But like I said it's just a work around.
Japanese bearings are also fine. Koyo, SKF... I have used FAG also.
I like your rotor puller idea. Nice.
Hey 50's Kid you do know that when you do this job or when replacing your struts you don't have to split caliper from the mounting bracket. Unless you are going to change the pads at the same time. Just back off the brake shoes undo the bolts and hang it up with your hook like you illustrated in the video. This trick works for the front and the back wheels. Other wise great videos Dude.
Also 1-13/16" socket is perfectly interchangeable with a 46mm socket. I have used both to do this job.
12:09 "Yeah, so-same guy". I died laughing!
It would be better to torq the bearing nut to specification (290 Nm) instead of just using the impact with no measuring at all. Impact should be only used to loosen screws imo.
Sebastian Pfennig exactly! Wheel bearings takes a lot of abuse if not, the most. I was surprised too that he didn’t use the torque wrench
Find a 145 pound person to stand on a 2 foot breaker bar.
It's not 290 ft lb, it's 290NM which is about 210 ft lb, but good luck finding a torque wrench that does that for somewhat cheap :/
I have an e46 325xi, the torque spec for the axle nut on this model is 420 Nm, or roughly 309 fp.
290Nm for rear wheel drive and 420Nm for all wheel drive as per maintenance manual
That wheel nut should be torqued to ~214ft-lbs. Ramming it on with an impact wrench is probably what the last guy did to booger it up. You can tighten the nut with the impact wrench a bit but then mount the wheel, put the car on the ground, and then torque the nut appropriately.
Don't need to mount wheel and put it on the ground. The spindle doesn't turn...the nut holds the center race of the twin wheel bearings.
I cant find a video on e46 rear wheel bearing replacement, any chance there is one in the works?
46 mm socket = 14$ now :). Amazon sponsored chinese made crap, not going to be using it very often I hope. Think going to rent the presser from Autozone for the install.
It looks like you replaced the entire hub with new bearings already installed. Is it possible to replace just the bearings and re-use your old hubs?
+J they don't sell the bearings individually for some reason like with every other car.
So you take out the rac? But you don't put back the rac? I am confused does the new one come with the rac? First time doing this
The other day I was driving my E46 and thought "I wonder how you do a wheel bearing on this car? Maybe 50sKid will do a video at some point." no lie.
hehe
,,,
Your videos are very much appreciated.
Every time an issue comes up with my e46 I head straight to your channel !
Lol like you I am here every week
@@flipvdfluitketel867 same 😁
Hi, do you have a video covering replacing the rear bearing? Thanks!
Robert Storozyk Been looking for the same thing had to try some forums 😣
ua-cam.com/video/FX1Um9pmcQg/v-deo.html
you should not be showing people how to do things that you do not know how to do. inexeperienced is an understatement.
Note: the 46mm socket must not be a standard .....because most are thick walled and will not fit- i know this all too well lol
Hmm... I don't think it's a thin walled socket, actually.
50sKid the one i orderer off amazon was lol
Haven't done this yet on the e46, but have done a bunch on an e30- same thing. Couple things I do is drive the car around and get it all heated up- makes the old bearing come off much easier. Be careful though as all the brake stuff is hotter- please use caution. Once I get the brakes off and the nut off, I will attach a wheel and can pull the bearing right out. Of course the inner race will get left behind sometimes and then the fun begins. I do like the modification you came up with on the puller. Plus as others have said- remove the dust cover and attack it from the back side. The other thing I do is to put the new wheel bearings in the oven at around 180-200F and let them heat up, and expand some. I will do this before I take the car out around the block. This makes them slide right on without much if any hitting. But watching this video and using the 36mm socket, they seemed to have gone on fairly easily. Again, another great video!
Is the nut like a troll from bmw it self? I mean the model of the car is e46 and the nut size is 46 XD.
Is this the same process on a 325xi?
great vid sir. those caliper bolts have cross threaded on me before. i would feed them in by hand as much as possible first, then tighten them up. but thats just me...
So... you didnt torque it according to spec, which is like 290 NM, that's pretty much.
Remove the brake dust shield, making it very easy to access evrything.
A cold chisel and large hammer will bust the inner race open to remove, done this many times.
Thank you very much 50's, as I followed this great video to replace the wheel bearings on my 2001 e 46 and saved a bundle. My car had already had the front wheel bearings replaced once before i owned it with the chinese wheel bearings with no ridge for a puller on the inner race. However the inner races were not pressed on tight, I was able to get them off with channel locks on one side. On the other side the inner race didnt want to come off, so i took the brake backing plate off and was able to easily pry the inner race off with a screw driver after taking off the inner bearing dust shield. I do think that if you take the brake backing plate off, you can get a puller behind the flange of inner race of the non grooved chinese wheel bearings. Also I do not think the chinese ones press on by design. I bought a chinese one at direct auto (for like only $45!) It slid on tightly - no tapping with hammer needed. It doesn't have to press on to work ok, because that huge axle nut holds it on, though a press on would be of course nice for another level of safety as bmw intended.
Ordered SKF part, haha Damn it 🤷♂️
Please do a video for the read 🙏🏻🙏🏻
Great video, thanks for the tip on modifying the clamp. I had to do that today after half the bearing was left on!
Should of showed us what the noise was I might have that problem as well just not sure if it this
Wa004DE it's not something the camera mic can pick up very well. The road noise drowns it out. I would have if I could
Anyone have any idea what would restrict my freewheeling?
Im about to start tear down on both fronts
I just bought some cheap ebay bearings for $45 a pair.
You said 46mm but the Amazon link says 36?
Is there the need to put grease on the wheel bearing before installation.?
Is the wheel bearing comes already greased. ?
Thank you.
it's a pre-greased sealed bearing.
socket is 20 dollars at FCP euro.
Reused the shit old hub nut tut tut always replace them
To get the inner race off, you can use a bearing puller. You'll need to remove the dust shield but far easier
I would be buggered without your videos! Thank you 50's Kid !
So you did you forget to torque down 214 lbs./ft or did you not think it was that important? Also...reusing that 46mm nut is not recommended in any situation. Thanks for the video though.
Can you add rear wheel bearing video as well?
Any rear wheel bearing video for e46 ?
Is this roughly the same on an xi?
Ayo you're the man 50skid, just did wheel bearings and lower control arms, took me about 5 hours with a lot of sweat, I also live in a very moist rusty climate so that doesn't help either😂 but thx again, you made me overcome the fear of doing it myself❤ love
So you would probably won't recommend buying the 120usd bmw bearing installer tool, right? I thought the fit was tighter than what I just saw...
Unnecessary unless you're a bmw technician.
Do you enjoy your working on cars ?
No need to take brake caliper off the bracket, you can just go straigh for the 16mm bolts that hold the bracket and remove it as one piece. And the bearing was moving because you removed the nut that holds it tight, obviously.. and here is more: 576681EA is not listed as compatible with E46 3 series, it says E34 5 series and and E32 7 series.. dooh
Always replace the hub nut, dealers will usually have them instock. Not overly expensive. The inner race, you can get off easily by cutting into it using a cutoff wheel and then split it using a chisel + hammer combo.
You can't get a cut off wheel in there because of the shape of the dust shield.
@@50sKid outside of california those dust shields need replacing at the same time too, rusted to pieces.
Hello Team I have 2006 bmw 325 I . When I’m driving 60 miles is ok but after that I have a sound frictions and push off the speed sound and vibration is back and forward that happens only after 60 mi .
u should always change that nut when u change the bearing ;) its a one time use only nut
Not true. The nut can be reused, provided it is not cross-threaded. He should have torqued the nut to the factory specs. Every hub assembly sold has a warning label telling you to not to install it with an impact gun, like he did. The play in the hub assembly he saw at the beginning of the video came because he removed the nut, which takes the preload off the bearing. Don't ever use an impact gun to install a wheel bearing. it should be done up snug and torqued. That said, his videos are invaluable for someone who has never taken apart their BMW.
Has anyone had a problem where the hubs just straight up seize when torquing the new hubs down? I can’t get them to spin and I’ve watched like 100 videos and they are definitely seated right
You don't need puller
Ok. My bearing nut is seized and I’m not sure why. I put so much torque on I was scared I would break my 3 foot breaker bar. Is there anything else holding it in place other than the tabs that you have to push out??
Is this same on 328
So do you have to take off everything to change the dust shield? mines rattling and its really annoying, but once you get the inner race off the dust shield can come off?
Dang 110$ a piece? I always use febi bilstein wich is like top of the line german aftermarked products. 2 years of unlimited warranty. Usually they are like half of what OEM costs but the quality is amazing.
A hose clamp to hold the puller tightly together…. Thank you! Sometimes the simple stuff eludes me.
Hello. I recently changed these hubs at home, but unfortunately it wasn't so colorful at my place :( I also bought SKF, only mine did not have a groove and I did not pay attention to it and tightened what caused that the dust cover had nowhere to hide and the hub did not want to And here I have a question, if the hub has no groove, do you need to remove the dust cover before installing the hub?
Love your videos. So helpful 🙌🏾. You have a fan all the way from South Africa. I'd like to know how to replace the rear wheel bearings? Have you done a video on that yet? Can't seem to find anyone who explains things like you. Would be dope🥺
Would it be possible to remove the dust shield to get to the inner ring, which is stuck on? that would make room for other tools to get that thing off.
Just saw some pictures of someone doing it, someone got experience with that?
Interesting taking the calipers apart. Not sure if my car is different somehow but when I changed the brakes on my car the whole caliper is just taken off to access the brake disc
Typical BMW repair. Entire tool box to perform simple job on any other marque. I just want to remove my dust shields. Looks like cutting them off will be way simpler.
My '04 E46 compact had the exact same problem where the bearing assembly literally slid off without using a puller. It was in AWFUL shape. But it certainly made the removal much easier.
Thanks Jason.. referred back to this video for the current round of bearing shenanigan's.. not sure if was just lucky but the baby jaw pulled have now had absolutely no problem pulling off the inner race even though its the most tinny grove that its got to grab onto, I used a brass fitting that protruded enough from the ring of the hub to get the point of the jaw puller positioned nice and centrally.. and it slide it off like butter with the number 10 adjustable.. just pulled 3 in repeatable reliable fashion :)
Great video. Well communicated. My car shakes when I'm traveling more than 100km. Could the reason also be my Front wheel bearing needing a replacement 50sKid??
Like 👍 good video .
Very appreciated on your awesome video. I have a problem with lug spinning bolt on drive side front wheel of my X3, someone put a wrong lug bolt, I do not know the thread of bearing hub was damaged or not. I need to take off the spinning lug bolt first. Do you have a idea on how to pull out the spinning bolt? Thanks in advance.
Absolute brilliant video! Can i use the 46mm socket instead of buying a 36mm to bang the bearing in?
Hit it like a man
Can I remove the wheel hub and bearing without removing the rotor? I’ve pretty much given up drying to get the bolts off the rotor and thought it’d be a good time to just replace the hub while I was replacing the rotor and pads
its ilogical. if it happen is because it suposes to hapen and specially if the part has been demaged. stop talking like a little kid that doesnt know what happen around him and be more prifessional thats all
Good morning, I have a question regarding the puller, I own a 3 jaw puller set from harbor freight will that work or will have to go but the two jaw puller?
I would like to ask if it is possible to remove or replace that brake dust shield without having to remove the bearing/hub, as mine is now rattling around?
another way of removing the bearing race sleeve is with a welder ...weld around bearing race sleeve and in a few seconds will just fall off but make certain you do not hit the axle surface
Great tutorial video as usual my friend, have you come across the front bearing using the same abs ring as the rears ?
Instead of trying to find and balance a hardened washer on the end of the spindle, just cut the head off a large bolt and place it inside and let the puller push against that.
I just bought the 46mm socket at Northern Tool for 13.99 + tax in North Carolina.
Amazingly easy job especially with Chinese bearings . Like the clamp idea
Great video as usual! Do you think autozone will have the right pullers via their loaner program?
Same thing happened with my bearings haha. Just came right off
Great content man, with all the part numbers. much appreciated
Hey 50skid is there a way i can buy the conplete hub bearing assembly without me pressin the new one?
Just simply great. The tech made the job easy to follow. All in all.......Super
super easy job
Do these bearings come pack with grease? You did mention it at all...
Hi 50's Kid! I like your videos. All of them are really interesting.
I would like to say something about changing the front wheel bearing of the e46: well I 've done this on my car a couple of months ago and I did'nt needed a puller at all. The old bearing was pulled just by hands. Also the inner small ring of the bearing. I was also surprised just lile you. But it was the case on all my friend's e46. No one needed an puller for changing the front bearing.
Also to mount the new bearing, it was just done by hands: no hammering was needed. Just center it on the shaft and it should slide by applying a smal force by hands.
I installed Meyle bearings which are a good quality here in germany. Price ist about 100€ for one pair of front bearings.
Sounds like something is wrong. These types of bearings are a press fit. That's why bmw makes a special tool to do it. Not supposed to just push on by hand
50sKid that's right. I was about to by one of these special tools but it was so expensive. I said lets give it a try with a standard puller but finally I didn't use it. I saw also other forums where people were discussing the same topic and many of them did it by hands. May be the tolerance on the diameter is varrying from supplier to another?!!?
Thanks 50sKid for the easy to follow video! When I used the 36mm socket to hammer the bearing on, it took several tries, and I noticed the inner and outer race separate (not sure I'm using the right terminology). The inner race caught onto the axle, but the outer race was tilted with the rest of the wheel bearing. I eventually got the outer race on, tightened the big bearing nut, put everything back and all seems ok. Is the bearing messed up now since the race separated?
Does this work with m3 e46’s ?
yes
About to start this on my e85, love your videos! Keep it up!
Do you have a video for E46 cv boot or cv axle replacement?
Hi, did u know X models are not build the same?
Really enjoying your videos mate. Quick question - how high does your Jack go? Do you always jack the car onto 4 stands? I went to replace my oil level sensor on the weekend and I couldn't get the lower splash guard off (they seemed way over torqued). But i felt i didnt have enough clearance under the car to get at all the bolts easily. Even undoing the sump plug was difficult. I think it may be due to my jack not going high enough and only raising the front of the car
I always jack up onto 4 stands of equal height, yes. I feel it's the safest way to go. Get a breaker bar.
Thank you for the video. It taught me to get my wheel bearings done at a garage and not do it myself! haha! But still taught me something.
8:20 it should happen because the bearing is actually 2 pieces