Nice video 👍🏽I just spent hours trying to find the problem and didnt want to remove the mds and found out finally that it was my motor mounts!!! I did the transmiton flush and added the friction modifier and nothing. But the mount was the actual cause!!
2011 300C has been shuddering whilst crusing in eco/MDS around 30-40mph. A slap of the shifter would disable MDS but I wasn't sure if it was unlocking the converter. A bad purge canister set off the CEL today thus not allowing MDS to kick in and the shudder is gone. I was doing some digging when I came across your vid. You got another subscriber. Cheers!
My 2012 300c does this as well and i can also be at a constant speed at maybe 50-60 mph or any speed and my throttle would fade out and if I don’t get off the throttle then it would throw the p0741 code
aye man would ur throttle not respond then respond again and take off? my problem happens at 55mph but its started happening at any speed over 30 now 2013 300c
If turning off the MDS does help,s, I recommend doing a complete MDS delete and replacing the lifters with Hellcat lifters. Contact Jay Greene racing on facebook because he is a good source of info for an MDS delete.
Dodge ram 5.7 hemi 2009. Mine does a shudder here and there. Doesn't matter the speed. Only goes away if I brake or accelerate. Now, I have No noise, no smell smooth shifting. My shudder feels more so on right passenger side
If you can feel the shudder on a specific side, it sounds like you may have a tire issue. One or more of your tires may be out of balance or may have a broke belt. Take your truck to the tire shop and get it checked.
Disconnecting the solenoids without the tune may cause problems with your pcm because the two are so integrated. The tuner actually programs your pcm to keep the MDS turned off.
I installed an LED that lights up when my mds turns on my 300c 06 and acted exactly how you described. So I drive on dr 4 and my shutter goes away. Have you found out what links the mds to the torque converter? Is it when the mds engages it sends a signal to the tcc to lock or something? The reason im asking is because it also ocassionally stalls the engine. So i was wondering if maybe my torque converter clutch was staying locked causing my engine to turn off?
So you didn’t have to put plugs in place of the mds solenoids or put a new cam in it? I have an 06 ram 1500 and have shudder when I go go from cruising speeds and step on the throttle to speed up. If I don’t hammer on it to down shift it’ll shutter if I just slowly accelerate. If I hammer it and down shift there is 0 issue. Also randomly stalling.
I did not remove the MDS, the system is still in the engine. I just I just shut it off. Most people remove the MDS itself because the solenoids and lifters themselves can fail.
I have a 2009 1500 5.7 hemi ram. Mine shudders only at coasting speeds and doesn’t matter what speed I’m coasting at, if I brake or give it some gas it goes away. Just recently, I'm having rpms go up to 2000-2500 to shift from 2nd and 3rd gears. It shift smoothly though after delay. What ended up being wrong with yours?
It is impossible to diagnose a problem without being in the car or inspecting it. You could have a rough idle due to a clogged fuel injector, bad spark plugs, or bad coil pack to give a few of examples. If the car is in drive while you have your foot on the brake the torque converter can still vibrate. If the torque converter is shuddering or vibrating you will feel the vibration/shudder coming from under the car.
Thank you for sharing..one question: on my 09 gmc sierra the RPMS shutter or 'idle' up and down as i am slowing down, for example as i slow down from 50mph, it shutters at around 30mph, then at 20mph, and one last time just before completely stopping...is this a bad torque converter or transmission issue?...or more like an engine idle issue like throttle body or similar engine issue?...thank you
Thank you for watching my video. As for your GMC it is impossible to diagnose your problem without driving the vehicle. I can however give you some tips. If you you are having a torque converter shutter you will feel the shutter coming from the drivetrain as if the whole truck is slightly shaking. It will not feel like a rough idle. Assuming that it is a shutter coming from the drivetrain it more than likely is not your torque converter. If it is a shutter coming from the drivetrain I would first check my tires because an out of balance tire or broke belt in a tire will cause a shutter at different speeds. A simple way to check for a broke belt is to Jack the truck up just enough to get a tire off the ground then place a brick or even a cinder block as close to the tread of the tire as possible without touching the tire then rotate the tire by hand. If the tire has a broke it will hit the brick/block. You can also take your truck to a tire shop and have them to check the balance of your tires. If the tires are okay then look at your driveshaft especially if your truck has a two piece driveshaft with a center support bearing. The center support bearing is actually just a rubber bushing in a metal frame that supports a two piece driveshaft. Check the rubber to see if it is worn, has cracks, or holes in it. You can also check the center support bearing by grabbing the driveshaft on each side of the bearing and push the driveshaft up and down. If you can fairly easily bottom out the driveshaft inside the bearing, the bearing needs to be replaced because a worn center support bearing will cause the shutter. Even a single piece driveshaft can become out of balance itself. You could also have worn U-joints on the driveshaft that cause a shutter. These are just some of the things that could cause your truck to shutter. I am not ruling out the torque converter but it is better to check the simpler things before spending a bunch of money to have a torque converter replaced. I hope this helps you out and gives you some ideas on what to look for.
Yes, but if you just turn off the MDS electronically you will still have the MDS cam, lifters, and actuators. Which is fine if you just want the system turned off. To do a complete MDS Delete you have to replace the cam and lifters with a non MDS cam and lifters plus install MDS delete plugs (not spark plugs). After installing the MDS delete kit you then have to turn off the MDS using a tuner such as the Diablo intune i3.
There are multiple issues than can cause torque converter shutter, for me it was the MDS. Unfortunately to replace the front seal on the transmission, the transmission has to be pulled. A worn out trans pump or a torque converter that is failing to lock and unlock can cause the shutter. Since the trans has to be pulled anyway to repair the leak you might as well get the trans and torque converter checked.
No I did not. My ‘06 would vibrate as I was slowing down through 30-20 mph then it would suddenly stop the slower I got. Several things could be causing your problem for example a broke belt in a tire or more than likely you have a worn out driveshaft coupler. The driveshaft couplers connect the drive shaft to the transmission in the front and the differential in the rear. They are black rubber disk that wear out and cause the shaking.
@@j.t.553 I recommend the Diablo intune i3 tuner if you own a Challenger or a Charger simply because of the code reader ability and the options that include turning off the MDS when you do a tune. A faulty transmission pump and a faulty torque converter can also cause this problem.
Converters that are designed for higher stall speeds are called stall converters. This is a real good video that will help you understand. ua-cam.com/video/XfNG69r7MBA/v-deo.html
This was such a huge help. 5 mechanics couldn't figure what you figured out. Big thanks.
You are welcome. My advice is to have a full MDS delete done. It is costly but the risk of keeping the MDS lifters, and cam out weighs the benefits.
Nice video 👍🏽I just spent hours trying to find the problem and didnt want to remove the mds and found out finally that it was my motor mounts!!! I did the transmiton flush and added the friction modifier and nothing. But the mount was the actual cause!!
2011 300C has been shuddering whilst crusing in eco/MDS around 30-40mph. A slap of the shifter would disable MDS but I wasn't sure if it was unlocking the converter. A bad purge canister set off the CEL today thus not allowing MDS to kick in and the shudder is gone. I was doing some digging when I came across your vid. You got another subscriber. Cheers!
It fix my issue thank you
My 2012 300c does this as well and i can also be at a constant speed at maybe 50-60 mph or any speed and my throttle would fade out and if I don’t get off the throttle then it would throw the p0741 code
Sounds like your problem might be different from what I was talking about in this video.
aye man would ur throttle not respond then respond again and take off? my problem happens at 55mph but its started happening at any speed over 30 now 2013 300c
My 2014 100th anniversary charger does the same thing you ever figure it out?
I have the same prob on my 2010 RT heavy shudder slowing down at 20 MPH , saving up to get a Diablo tuner hopefully it helps
If turning off the MDS does help,s, I recommend doing a complete MDS delete and replacing the lifters with Hellcat lifters. Contact Jay Greene racing on facebook because he is a good source of info for an MDS delete.
Dodge ram 5.7 hemi 2009. Mine does a shudder here and there. Doesn't matter the speed. Only goes away if I brake or accelerate. Now, I have No noise, no smell smooth shifting. My shudder feels more so on right passenger side
If you can feel the shudder on a specific side, it sounds like you may have a tire issue. One or more of your tires may be out of balance or may have a broke belt. Take your truck to the tire shop and get it checked.
I have 350,000kms on my 09 and MDS is still active. Haven't had any shutter to speak of. It doesn't have anything to do with the torque converter
Say if I was to disconnect the solenoids without tuning, will my car still vibrate??
Disconnecting the solenoids without the tune may cause problems with your pcm because the two are so integrated. The tuner actually programs your pcm to keep the MDS turned off.
I installed an LED that lights up when my mds turns on my 300c 06 and acted exactly how you described. So I drive on dr 4 and my shutter goes away. Have you found out what links the mds to the torque converter? Is it when the mds engages it sends a signal to the tcc to lock or something? The reason im asking is because it also ocassionally stalls the engine. So i was wondering if maybe my torque converter clutch was staying locked causing my engine to turn off?
So you didn’t have to put plugs in place of the mds solenoids or put a new cam in it? I have an 06 ram 1500 and have shudder when I go go from cruising speeds and step on the throttle to speed up. If I don’t hammer on it to down shift it’ll shutter if I just slowly accelerate. If I hammer it and down shift there is 0 issue. Also randomly stalling.
I did not remove the MDS, the system is still in the engine. I just I just shut it off. Most people remove the MDS itself because the solenoids and lifters themselves can fail.
I have this same problem with a 09 grand cherokee hemi.
I have a 2009 1500 5.7 hemi ram. Mine shudders only at coasting speeds and doesn’t matter what speed I’m coasting at, if I brake or give it some gas it goes away. Just recently, I'm having rpms go up to 2000-2500 to shift from 2nd and 3rd gears. It shift smoothly though after delay. What ended up being wrong with yours?
My car shutters when I sit still .. not sure if MDS system would come into play .. ideas??
It is impossible to diagnose a problem without being in the car or inspecting it. You could have a rough idle due to a clogged fuel injector, bad spark plugs, or bad coil pack to give a few of examples. If the car is in drive while you have your foot on the brake the torque converter can still vibrate. If the torque converter is shuddering or vibrating you will feel the vibration/shudder coming from under the car.
@@fyireviewsandhowtos3118 yea I get is hard to say what it is without being in car .... But thank you for the response
Thank you for sharing..one question: on my 09 gmc sierra the RPMS shutter or 'idle' up and down as i am slowing down, for example as i slow down from 50mph, it shutters at around 30mph, then at 20mph, and one last time just before completely stopping...is this a bad torque converter or transmission issue?...or more like an engine idle issue like throttle body or similar engine issue?...thank you
Thank you for watching my video. As for your GMC it is impossible to diagnose your problem without driving the vehicle. I can however give you some tips. If you you are having a torque converter shutter you will feel the shutter coming from the drivetrain as if the whole truck is slightly shaking. It will not feel like a rough idle. Assuming that it is a shutter coming from the drivetrain it more than likely is not your torque converter. If it is a shutter coming from the drivetrain I would first check my tires because an out of balance tire or broke belt in a tire will cause a shutter at different speeds. A simple way to check for a broke belt is to Jack the truck up just enough to get a tire off the ground then place a brick or even a cinder block as close to the tread of the tire as possible without touching the tire then rotate the tire by hand. If the tire has a broke it will hit the brick/block. You can also take your truck to a tire shop and have them to check the balance of your tires. If the tires are okay then look at your driveshaft especially if your truck has a two piece driveshaft with a center support bearing. The center support bearing is actually just a rubber bushing in a metal frame that supports a two piece driveshaft. Check the rubber to see if it is worn, has cracks, or holes in it. You can also check the center support bearing by grabbing the driveshaft on each side of the bearing and push the driveshaft up and down. If you can fairly easily bottom out the driveshaft inside the bearing, the bearing needs to be replaced because a worn center support bearing will cause the shutter. Even a single piece driveshaft can become out of balance itself. You could also have worn U-joints on the driveshaft that cause a shutter.
These are just some of the things that could cause your truck to shutter. I am not ruling out the torque converter but it is better to check the simpler things before spending a bunch of money to have a torque converter replaced. I hope this helps you out and gives you some ideas on what to look for.
You can turn the mds off with the diablo Intune i3 tuner? So you need a diablo tuner to do it?
Yes, but if you just turn off the MDS electronically you will still have the MDS cam, lifters, and actuators. Which is fine if you just want the system turned off. To do a complete MDS Delete you have to replace the cam and lifters with a non MDS cam and lifters plus install MDS delete plugs (not spark plugs). After installing the MDS delete kit you then have to turn off the MDS using a tuner such as the Diablo intune i3.
Same vehicle as you……I took to shop and was told I need torque converter..wondering if that would work for me.
I was told the same thing but turning off the MDS worked for me.
Thanks will give that a try once I get a little time
Do the sxt have this mds?
I believe the MDS only comes in the V8’s with automatic transmissions.
I have a 06 Chrysler 300c, I noticed mine shook for awhile and I ignored it. now my transmission is leaking from under the bell housing shaft seal?
There are multiple issues than can cause torque converter shutter, for me it was the MDS. Unfortunately to replace the front seal on the transmission, the transmission has to be pulled. A worn out trans pump or a torque converter that is failing to lock and unlock can cause the shutter. Since the trans has to be pulled anyway to repair the leak you might as well get the trans and torque converter checked.
Which tuner did you get?
The Diablo intune i3 tuner
Which Diablo equipment did you use
The Diablo In Tune i 3.
Here is a link to my video review of the intune i3 and how to use it.
ua-cam.com/video/8WH9HynFvGE/v-deo.html
My 08’ 300c shakes when going over 40 once I get on the gas a little more it goes away did you have the same symptoms
No I did not. My ‘06 would vibrate as I was slowing down through 30-20 mph then it would suddenly stop the slower I got. Several things could be causing your problem for example a broke belt in a tire or more than likely you have a worn out driveshaft coupler. The driveshaft couplers connect the drive shaft to the transmission in the front and the differential in the rear. They are black rubber disk that wear out and cause the shaking.
Mine is doing the exact same thing!!! I cannot figure it out
@@j.t.553 I recommend the Diablo intune i3 tuner if you own a Challenger or a Charger simply because of the code reader ability and the options that include turning off the MDS when you do a tune. A faulty transmission pump and a faulty torque converter can also cause this problem.
I just got a cam and still have my stock torque converter. Its terrible lol I need to get a upgraded converter wondering which to get
Checkout Summit Racing and if you are upgrading why not go with a stall converter? Just remember that you gotta do that tune also.
@@fyireviewsandhowtos3118 is a stall converter and a torque converter the same thing?
@@fyireviewsandhowtos3118 yeah my Hp tuner guy coming back to retune my car also
Converters that are designed for higher stall speeds are called stall converters. This is a real good video that will help you understand.
ua-cam.com/video/XfNG69r7MBA/v-deo.html